cl16 sailboat review

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CL 16 is a 16 ′ 0 ″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Ian Proctor/Graham Dodd / George Blanchard and built by C&L Boatworks starting in 1967.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Based on the Ian Proctor designed WAYFARER. CL = Croce & Lighthouse.

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Ahoy, fellow sailors! If you're the proud owner of a CL16 sailboat, you already know the joys of cruising gracefully across the water, powered only by the wind. To ensure that your sailing experiences remain smooth and enjoyable, it's essential to properly maintain your CL16 sailboat. In this blog post, we'll explore five key maintenance tips that will help you keep your vessel in top condition for optimal performance.

Understanding the CL16 Sailboat

Before diving into maintenance tips, let's take a moment to appreciate the CL16 sailboat itself. Designed by Canadian naval architect Robb White in the 1960s, the CL16 is a versatile and popular sailing dinghy known for its stability, simplicity, and ease of handling. With a length of 16 feet and a sail area of 127 square feet, the CL16 is ideal for both beginners and seasoned sailors looking for a fun and responsive vessel.

Maintenance Tip 1: Regular Inspections

Regular inspections are the cornerstone of good sailboat maintenance. By conducting thorough inspections before and after each sailing trip, you can catch any issues early and prevent them from escalating into more significant problems. Here are some key areas to focus on during inspections:

• Hull : Check for cracks, dents, or any signs of damage on the hull.
• Rigging : Inspect the rigging, including shrouds, stays, and halyards, for wear and tear.
• Sails : Look for tears, fraying, or UV damage on the sails.
• Hardware : Check all hardware, such as blocks, cleats, and fittings, for tightness and corrosion.

Maintenance Tip 2: Cleaning and Protection

Proper cleaning and protection are essential for preserving the longevity of your CL16 sailboat. Saltwater, dirt, and UV rays can all take a toll on your vessel over time. Here's how you can keep your sailboat clean and protected:

• Rinsing : After each sailing trip, rinse your sailboat with fresh water to remove salt and dirt.
• Cleaning : Use a mild soap and water solution to clean the hull, deck, and sails.
• Waxing : Apply a protective wax to the hull and deck to shield them from UV damage.
• Covering : Store your sailboat under a cover when not in use to protect it from the elements.

Maintenance Tip 3: Sail Care

The sails are the heart of any sailboat, including the CL16. Proper care and maintenance of your sails will not only prolong their lifespan but also ensure optimal performance on the water. Here are some tips for caring for your sails:

• Proper Storage : Fold or roll your sails neatly when not in use to prevent creases and damage.
• UV Protection : Avoid leaving your sails exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods.
• Repairs : Promptly repair any tears, holes, or loose stitching on your sails to prevent further damage.
• Tuning : Periodically tune your sails to ensure they are set correctly for optimal performance in different wind conditions.

Maintenance Tip 4: Hardware Maintenance

The hardware on your CL16 sailboat plays a crucial role in its functionality and safety. Regular maintenance of hardware components will help prevent accidents and ensure smooth sailing experiences. Here's how you can maintain the hardware on your sailboat:

• Lubrication : Apply marine-grade lubricant to moving parts, such as blocks and winches, to prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation.
• Tightening : Check and tighten all hardware components regularly to prevent loosening during sailing.
• Replacement : Replace any worn or damaged hardware, such as blocks or cleats, to avoid safety hazards.

Maintenance Tip 5: Seasonal Maintenance

Seasonal maintenance is essential for keeping your CL16 sailboat in top condition throughout the year. Before and after each sailing season, take the time to perform a more thorough inspection and maintenance routine. Here's what you should include in your seasonal maintenance checklist:

• Hull Inspection : Check the hull for any signs of osmosis, blisters, or delamination.
• Rigging Check : Inspect the rigging for any signs of corrosion, wear, or fatigue.
• Bottom Paint : If applicable, apply or touch up bottom paint to protect the hull from fouling.
• Sail Evaluation : Assess the condition of your sails and consider any necessary repairs or replacements.

By following these maintenance tips and staying proactive in caring for your CL16 sailboat, you can ensure that it remains in optimal condition for many sailing adventures to come. Remember, a well-maintained sailboat is not only safer but also more enjoyable to sail. Fair winds and following seas, fellow sailors!

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• Boat Repair and Restoration
• Boat Restoration, Building, and Hull Repair
• Thread starter B. Williams
• Start date Sep 17, 2008

B. Williams

• Sep 17, 2008

Anybody here ever had the top off a CL-16 sailboat? I was given a hull where the cockpit sole is soft and styrofoam beads wash out from under it. Very nice hull but the top almost has to come off at this point. I pulled the bump rail and the sides are epoxied together and have rivets that will have to be pulled or drilled. What is the best way to break the top lose from the bottom? Do you cut this seam with a saws-all? Thanks in advance from a newly bitten sailboat fiend!  

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Ideas on how to find good used sails for a CL16

• Jun 23, 2017
• Replies: 12
• Forum: Trailer Sailors
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Description

Dynamic Type 5 dolly for the CL16. Proudly made in the USA by Dynamic Dollies and custom sized for your boat, offering a great fit ease of maneuvering. Shipped in an easy to assemble kit. Dynamic Type 5 Dolly

• This style is made for heavier or double handed boats, e.g., Club 420, Capri 14.2, Coronado 15, larger inflatables or aluminum boats with motors, and more.
• Boat-specific tube and sling lengths provide a custom fit for each boat, enabling a balanced handle load and easy maneuvering.
• All joint fittings are through-bolted and designed for increased torque stability.
• Strong, 3 inch non-stretch, polyester sling provides wrap-around boat support.
• Adjustable, flexible V-fittings on bow and tongue tubes provide boat support forward of the sling and prevent boat and aluminum contact.
• Eyelets on sling and handle fittings facilitate securing boat to dolly in storage, on trailers or in racks. Tie-down with the handle fitting eyelet helps prevent slippage on steep ramps.
• Easy dolly breakdown using the snap buttons on wheel shaft and tongue tube, as well as wing nuts on axle tube cross fitting.
• Pneumatic, non-corrosive, 16 inch x 4 inch wheels can be secured on wheel shaft with provided screws for added security. For soft sand conditions, tire pressure can be reduced to increase tire footprint.
• Ships in an easy to assemble kit.
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Motor Mount for old CL16 Sailboat

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Hope I am posting this in the right forum... I need help finding a compatible motor mount for an older (1983) CL16 Sailboat by CL Boatworks. I have tried repeatedly to contact someone at C&L Boatworks, but they appear to no longer be operational. I once got one reply, but no more responses despite multiple Emails and Facebook posts to them. There are 4 bolts on my transom that are for a motor mount that used to be made for my boat but is long gone by the time I purchased it. I just want to put on a small trolling motor.. I tried putting it on the actual transom, but it gets tangled-up with the lines and I need it mounted "further back" to be out of the way. I am attaching a photo that shows the 4 bolts on my transom, and then a "sketch" I made that shows the distance between the bolts. It shows they are 6 inches apart "wide" and 3 1/2 inches apart "vertical". I believe these boats used to have some sort of wooden mount that went here that you could then mount a trolling motor or even a small outboard to. I have looked at a number of motor mounts on Amazon and other sites, and even purchased a few (but then returned them) because the bolt patterns are different and I don't want to drill additional holes in my transom and am hoping can find whatever used to here.. Also, there is no sort of "BLOCKING" inside my boat where these bolts lead, so whatever I put on must be very light. since I don't want to put too much stress on the transom. I found a very light trolling motor by "Watersnake" that is less then 10 pounds and I have confirmed it can move my boat, so I just need something that will fit those bolts and have some sort of "mounting plate" where I can attach the trolling motor. Thanks for any help or advice you can provide. Regards, Michael  

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• einstein-cl16-motor-bolt-pattern.pdf 160.9 KB Views: 222

I'd probabliy just build one out of marine plywood. Make a box with no top or bottom that sets the motor back far enough. Bolt the front to the transom using the existing holes and then hang the motor off the back. I would use a backing plate of some sort on the inside of the transom to spread the load form the bolts though.  

Thanks for the advice... I have actually started to consider that as an option. What is the best option for "Marine Grade" plywood (wood type), and any idea best place to get it? Could I just get exterior grade plywood from my local home depot, or is that not good enough? And how do I need to finish it? Could I just stain it and then use a marine varnish to waterproof it? Would that work? And presume I would use stainless steel bolts and washers.. And isn't there a special "marine sealant" you use after you put the bolts through to waterproof the holes? Thanks for the help... Michael  

Many lumberyards have marine grade plywood. For this purpose you probably would get away with exterior grade ply if it's sealed with varnish - might have to replace it sooner. I generally use a urethane varnish to cover wood like this. Give it a few coats & it should be OK. Would not stain it. I'd be concerned about the stain bleeding. Your other option would be to make a plywood adapter plate that has holes to match those in your transom and another set to match a commercial motor mount like the one posted below. That might be the easiest thing of all. Stainless bolts always. Anything else will rust. As to marine sealant, you have stumbled into one of the great areas of controversy. Many use silicone. They may be cursed by sbsequent owners of their boat. Many others (and they are correct) say never use anything with silicone on a boat. It leaves a residue that makes getting anything else to stick later a real problem. The best thing IMHO is butyl tape. It easily conforms to the surfaces & seals, but also comes off when you want it to. Look for MaineSail's posts here on how to use it (he sells a very good grade as well). I use nothing else to seal any penetrations in the boat & have no problem with leaks.  

einstem said: ..... I once got one reply, but no more responses despite multiple Emails and Facebook posts to them Click to expand...

I have tried to call them via good old landline.... was actually the first thing I tried... since I wanted to speak with someone to explain in detail everything I was looking for. Unfortunately, the listed phone number appears to no longer function and I get a message that the "call cannot be connected as dialed" when dialing it. I tried googling alternate numbers for them, but only get the phone number listed on the C&L boatworks website, which doesn't work. I have tried to make my emails very specific and explicit, and received back one response only, and no further responses since. I recognize things are crazy for small companies due to Covid, but things in Canada (where they are located) are not as dire as some other places, and I would hope to get some sort of response, or even an acknowledgment that they will get to it, even if delayed. Frustrating situation indeed... Michael  

You could probably use dimensional lumber. You might want to build a backing plate. Either ply or dimensional lumber should work. I might try finishing it with white paint to match the colour of the hull. I have attached a pic of the trolling motor mount that was on my boat when I bought it. The previous owner built it, looks like just a spruce 2x4. It lasted a number of years until I creamed it off a limestone wall leaving a lock. I never replaced it, because I prefer my gas motor.  

I've danced the motor mount cha-cha a couple of times now. Building one yourself is one way to avoid drilling new holes in your transom. The easier (and I think better) way is use a mount like snash has suggested, but instead of mounting it directly to your transom, mount it to a piece of starboard or g10, then mount that piece to your transom using the existing bolt-holes. An adapter, if you will. Both G10 and starboard are waterproof and UV resistant. No finishing or protective coatings needed. And yes, use stainless nuts, bolts and washers. The biggest washers you can get. And I would reinforce the inside of the transom too. Very simple. The high-class do it yourself way: glass a piece of marine-grade plywood (not available at Home Depot or Loews -- at least not the ones near me -- you will need to find a real lumber yard) over the bolt holes on the inside of the transom. Drill out the bolt holes again, this time at least two sizes larger than you need. Fill the holes with thickened epoxy. Let cure. Redrill through the epoxy for the proper sized bolts. This will keep any water intrusion from getting into the plywood core. A note about marine-grade plywood. It is preferred, but not necessary for something like this. If you are careful to seal the edges of the plywood with glass and epoxy, and you protect the holes with epoxy, then regular, exterior grade plywood will do you just fine for this application. The method I would use: using Gorilla Glue or another waterproof polyurethane glue, glue a piece of g10 or starboard (g10 is stiffer and probably better) over the bolt holes on the inside of the transom. Drill holes through the g10 using the existing holes in the transom. Mount your adapter/motor mount using the old holes. Done. This assumes that the manufacturer sealed up the original bolt holes so that water wouldn't get into the core. If the transom is uncored, then no worries. But if it is cored and the plywood or balsa is exposed in the holes, then I'd seal them up as noted above with thickened epoxy and redrill.  

Yeah.. I'm starting to get the feeling that I need to probably build this myself at this point.. I'm new to sailing and marine work. Learning as I go... And the transom is just fiberglass.. no wood core.. its a fairly light boat.. that's why I want to put some type of "backer" behind it.. Any idea where I can find a small piece of "G10" or "starboard"? And what "thickness" should I be looking for? Half inch? Inch? And how do you attach the motor mount into the starboard.. can I use a stainless steel "screw" (do they "hold" in it?) or does it need to be a "bolt" with a washer from behind? Sorry for so many questions.. want to do this right, and my marina doesn't really provide any help for 'sailboats'... unless you are fixing an engine, they aren't too interested and would charge a mint to do something custom like this... Thanks. Michael  

Current G10 (FR-4 Flame Rated) Fiberglass Board 1/2"

While you are designing your trolling motor mount, you may want to put some serious thought into how you are going to secure a potentially 40 or 50 pound battery. As CL 16's are unballasted dinghies, the securing method for the battery needs to be totally secure. A loose battery can do a lot of damage in a capsize.  

Can't fnd the edit function in the new format. Always use through-bolts for something like this. At a minimum use backing washers on anything that's through-bolted. For this application, I'd make a backing plate the same size as what is on the outside of the transom and put the bolts through that as well. That will spread the load from your motor out.  

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