making a sailboat tiller

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Making a tiller.

• Thread starter LordNelson
• Start date Jul 10, 2016
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

I lost my tiller when I sold a dingy and apparently is was in the dingy. (guy who bought it would not respond to emails or phone calls) I ordered one from D&R Marine which was supposed to fit but did not. Was thinking of trying to laminate two 1 x 6 or 8 boards together, but I can not find ash. I can get white pine, popular, red oak. I was thinking of using popular. I would cut a U notch in one end to go around the rudder as this is how the old one was. I was going to glue them together with Titebond 3. Would popular and titebond this work for a tiller handle?  

justsomeguy

LordNelson said: I lost my tiller when I sold a dingy and apparently is was in the dingy. (guy who bought it would not respond to emails or phone calls) I ordered one from D&R Marine which was supposed to fit but did not. Was thinking of trying to laminate two 1 x 6 or 8 boards together, but I can not find ash. I can get white pine, popular, red oak. I was thinking of using popular. I would cut a U notch in one end to go around the rudder as this is how the old one was. I was going to glue them together with Titebond 3. Would popular and titebond this work for a tiller handle? Click to expand

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

I made a tiller out of a pick handle. Cheap to buy, readily available, tough, and lasted 15 years. Used 1/8 " stainless to connect it to the rudder stock. Made a canvas cover for it.  

I made a mount for my outboard out of two poplar boards laminated together with polyester resin and fiberglass mat. It has held up very well for the past 4 or 5 years.  

Thanks for the info. I ended up modifying the D&R tiller by shimming out with stainless washers and purchasing longer stainless bolts.  

andy creighton

Ash or hickory would be best, but any good hard wood will be ok if you glass it well. Be sure to use epoxy resin, not polyester. The polyester is cheaper and will work, but will not bond properly to the wood like the epoxy will. What about bolting together a metal mount to the rudder so you can use an axe handle or some other tool handle?  

What about using aluminum tube? A lot less work building and maintaining than wood.  

agprice22 said: What about using aluminum tube? A lot less work building and maintaining than wood. Click to expand

LordNelson said: Thanks for the info. I ended up modifying the D&R tiller by shimming out with stainless washers and purchasing longer stainless bolts. Click to expand

I like wood too, but that makes it an offseason project! Now, here in the NE... We Sail! Ahhhhh.  

When our tiller broke on our Newport 17 we replaced it with a long shovel handle. It was strong, round to fit the hand and just the right length after I modified it to fit in the rudder. It was still working on the boat when I sold it years later.  

John23883 said: When our tiller broke on our Newport 17 we replaced it with a long shovel handle. It was strong, round to fit the hand and just the right length after I modified it to fit in the rudder. It was still working on the boat when I sold it years later. Click to expand

I used a baseball bat to make a second tiller. I keep the original tiller for solo sailing (it is about 18 inches longer), but when sailing with friends I wanted the room in the cockpit. Has worked well so far, although you really start to understand the realities of a lever instead of just the principles.  

Thanks for all the input. I ended up modifying the tiller from D&R. It cost about $15-$20 in stainless hardware but figured it was faster, and maybe cheaper, to get on the water.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

• Custom Tillers

Handcrafted sailboat tillers

Order by boat model or custom size. Any style can be built by providing a few simple dimensions. 

Welcome Sailors!

THIS IS THE HOME OF WOOD SAILBOAT TILLERS. WE OFFER QUALITY TILLERS FOR MANY BOAT MODELS SUCH AS CATALINA, HUNTER, J-BOAT, PEARSON, AND MORE. CUSTOM TILLERS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE. OUR TILLERS ARE BEING USED AROUND THE WORLD BY ALL TYPES OF SAILING ENTHUSIASTS INCLUDING DAY SAILORS, LONG TRIP CRUISERS, AND COMPETITIVE RACERS.

REQUEST QUOTE

PRESS BUTTON BELOW TO PULL UP OUR TILLER ORDER FORM. THE FORM WILL TAKE IN ALL THE NECESSARY INFO THAT WILL BE NEEDED TO QUOTE YOUR TILLER. I WILL BE IN TOUCH SOON WITH PRICING AND TO CONFIRM DIMENSIONS. WE WILL BEGIN WORK WITH YOUR GO AHEAD.

Hi John, Thank you again! The tiller is beautiful and it is a perfect fit. Out sailing Long Island Sound. Doug Mitten-Norwalk, CT

JT, Tiller is beautiful - perhaps too much so, it puts the rest of my boat to shame.  Thanks for the quick turnaround. Tom Boussie-Menlo Park, CA

You all did a beautiful job in crafting my new tiller. I am very happy with the finished product. Thank you for your craftsmanship. Frank Porpotage-Sarasota Sailing Squadron

The tiller has arrived.  What wonderful craftsmanship!   It is absolutely beautiful ... a work of art.  Thank you. Paul E. Mottl-Crisfield, MD

The tiller  has arrived . . it is absolutely beautiful . ...we are very happy . . awesome  workmanship . . thanks you so much..I will install  it tomorrow  and then it's out sailing again... thanks again for providing  such an excellent  product. Tom and Kip Klidonas-Delray Beach, FL

Tiller arrived and its a beautiful work of art.  Thanks. My boat will be very happy! Leighton Cooney-Auburn, ME

The tiller arrived Thursday and it is a work of art! Thanks very much for your fine workmanship. David Hulse-Chesapeake, VA

Dear JT, Thank you so much! The tiller arrived yesterday and it is gorgeous! It will stand out on this old sailboat and I'm sure it will make her sail even better. Macky Gaines-Vergennes, VT

The tiller you made is beautiful and a perfect fit. Dean Brock-Port Townsend, WA  

The tiller arrived last night. It is a work of art. Thanks very much. I will recommend you to everyone I know and will send anything else I need your way. Bill Wesp-Centerport, NY

Hi JT, just letting you know I am very pleased with the quality of work you guys have done. I also appreciate the time you and your dad took to get the peculiar measurements precise. Dan Scheffel-Kansas City, MO

Thanks John, I know you've made my husbands Christmas very special. Linda Scheffield-Florida

John, it looks great. The craftsmanship is excellent and made in America! Perfect. Thanks again. Art Buehler

Recieved, thank you. It came out beautiful. I can't wait to get it in my fathers hands. Derek Basini-Rockville Centre, NY

It was delivered yesterday. It's perfect. Thanks so much for your work. I will recommend you to all that may need a tiller. Leslie Dietsch-Erie, MI

Good  morning, the tiller arrived and it is beautiful. Jeff Brunson- Mt. Pleasant, SC

Copyright © 2018 ANY TILLER - All Rights Reserved.

Powered by GoDaddy

Cookie Policy

This website uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you accept our use of cookies.

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 8d5c8df7-76dd-11ef-8426-84ce3ec7ff40

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

Sailboat Tiller: A Comprehensive Guide to Steering Your Vessel

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 18, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer sailboat tiller:

A sailboat tiller is a lever used to steer a sailboat by connecting it to the rudder. It allows the sailor to control the direction of the boat by manipulating the position of the tiller. This essential component provides direct and manual steering control, commonly found on smaller sailing vessels.

Introduction to Sailboat Tiller: Everything You Need to Know

Are you looking to set sail on a thrilling nautical adventure? If so, then understanding the intricacies of a sailboat tiller is of vital importance. A sailboat tiller serves as the vessel’s steering mechanism, connecting the skipper to the boat’s rudder and allowing for smooth navigation through strong winds and turbulent waters. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve deep into all things related to sailboat tillers – from their history and construction to their proper usage and maintenance.

A Brief History

The concept of using a tiller as a means of steering can be traced back centuries. Dating back to ancient times, civilizations such as Mediterranean Greeks and Phoenicians utilized primitive forms of tillers made from sturdy pieces of wood or bamboo. These early sailors understood that controlling their vessels’ direction was essential for survival during long voyages across vast oceans.

Over time, advancements in technology allowed for the refinement of sailboat tillers. During the medieval era, sailors began incorporating more sophisticated mechanisms like pivoting mounts and connections between the rudder and tiller. By the 17th century, wooden rudders became prevalent, with oak being favored due to its strength and durability.

Construction and Components

Modern-day sailboat tillers typically come in two primary materials: wood or lightweight composites like fiberglass or carbon fiber. Wooden tillers offer timeless beauty while maintaining sturdiness but require regular maintenance to prevent weathering or rotting. On the other hand, composite materials provide enhanced durability without compromising on weight.

The main components of a sailboat tiller include:

1. Tiller Head: Located at the aft end near the cockpit area, it connects directly to the top portion of the rudder stock.

2. Tiller Extension: Attached at an angle perpendicular to the main tiller, it allows sailors to steer without having to stand right at the tiller. This is especially useful during intense maneuvers or when adjusting sails.

3. Tiller Connection Hardware: Consists of various robust hardware pieces like swivels, brackets, and bolts that help secure the tiller onto the rudder stock, ensuring a tight connection for precise steering control.

4. Tiller Rope or Bungee System: Sailors often employ a rope or bungee system to maintain tension on the tiller while sailing upwind or in gusty conditions. This ensures that the tiller stays in place, reducing strain on the skipper.

Proper Usage and Techniques

Mastering sailboat tiller control requires practice and understanding of proper techniques. When holding the tiller, it is essential to have a relaxed grip allowing for ease of movement while maintaining full control over steering adjustments. Remember to always face forward with both feet firmly planted on deck for stability and balance.

To turn left (port side), push the tiller away from yourself; conversely, pulling it towards you will result in a right turn (starboard side). Understanding how different movements affect your vessel’s course – whether large distinct turns or subtle adjustments – is vital for navigating through confined spaces such as marinas.

Maintenance Tips

Ensuring your sailboat tiller remains in excellent condition requires regular maintenance and care:

1. Inspection: Routinely check for any signs of wear or damage on the tiller head, extension, connections hardware, or rope/bungee system. Address any issues immediately to prevent further deterioration.

2.Cleaning: Depending on its material (wood or composite), clean your sailboat’s tiller using appropriate methods and products. Wooden tillers may benefit from occasional sanding and revarnishing to maintain their aesthetic appeal and structural integrity.

3.Storage: Properly store your sailboat’s tiller when not in use to protect it from harsh weather conditions that could lead to warping or cracking. A protective cover can be employed for added safeguarding.

A sailboat tiller is the fundamental connection between you, the sailor, and your vessel’s ability to navigate through treacherous waters and gusty winds with precision. By understanding the history, construction, usage techniques, and maintenance tips associated with sailboat tillers, you can embark on unforgettable maritime adventures with confidence and finesse. So hoist those sails, grab hold of that tiller, and let your sailing dreams set sail!

How to Use a Sailboat Tiller: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Ahoy, landlubbers! Are you ready to set sail on the open seas and experience the thrill of sailing? Well, before you hoist those sails and catch the wind’s whisper, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with the most important tool at your disposal: the sailboat tiller.

The sailboat tiller is like a captain’s rudder, steering you towards new horizons and adventures. This essential piece of equipment controls the movement of your sailboat and allows you to navigate through the water with confidence. But fear not! Using a sailboat tiller is simpler than tying a sailor’s knot.

Step 1: Feel the Tiller in Your Hands When gripping the tiller, you’ll notice its smooth wooden or metal surface beneath your fingers. Embrace this connection between man and machine – for it is through this tangible bond that you’ll commandeer your vessel. Take a moment to savor this kinship before moving on.

Step 2: Stand Tall at Stern Now that you’ve acquainted yourself with your trusty companion, navigate towards the stern (the back) of your sailboat. It is from this vantage point that you’ll exert your authority over wind and waves.

Step 3: Assess Your Surroundings Before maneuvering the tiller, survey your surroundings like an experienced seafarer. Keep an eye out for other boats bobbing nearby, any pesky shallows lurking beneath calm waters, or any potential obstacles that could disrupt an otherwise majestic voyage.

Step 4: Push or Pull? Once confident in your surroundings, endeavor to establish whether pushing or pulling will determine your ship’s course. When nearing crew members who are eagerly awaiting their chance at assisting with navigation duties (or simply hoping for direction), please refrain from poking them with the tiller-end. Remember, camaraderie is key!

Step 5: Master the Art of Gentle Steering With your intentions clear and your path charted, it’s time to put theory into practice. Begin by gently moving the tiller in the desired direction, as an accomplished captain would steer her ship through stormy seas. Avoid rash movements that may jolt passengers or cause them to spill their noble cups of tea – a trait becoming of any seasoned sailor.

Step 6: The Wind Holds All Secrets As you gain confidence in steering with finesse, take note of the wind’s whispers as they dance through the sails. As if engaged in a secret dialogue with nature itself, learn to interpret its messages and adjust your course accordingly. Become one with these gusts of fortune, and you will undoubtedly become a master sailor.

Step 7: Embrace Trial and Error Remember that Rome wasn’t built in a day, just as skillful seamanship isn’t acquired overnight. Be open to making mistakes and learning from them in true nautical spirit. Practice makes perfect – or at least gets you closer to it!

So there you have it, future sailors! With this step-by-step guide on using a sailboat tiller, you now possess the knowledge needed to embark on your seafaring adventures. May your voyages be filled with calm breezes and breathtaking sunsets that leave even Poseidon himself envious!

Common Sailboat Tiller FAQs Answered: Your Ultimate Resource

Are you a sailing enthusiast who has many burning questions about sailboat tillers? Look no further! In this comprehensive blog post, we will dive into the most common sailboat tiller FAQs and provide you with all the answers you need. Consider this your ultimate resource for all things sailboat tillers!

1. What is a sailboat tiller?

Let’s start with the basics. A sailboat tiller is a mechanism used to steer a sailboat. It is usually a long handle attached to the rudder or directly connected to it, allowing sailors to control the direction of their boat.

2. How does a sailboat tiller work?

A sailboat tiller works by transmitting the force applied by the sailor to the rudder, which then changes the direction of the boat. When you push or pull on the tiller handle, it moves in one direction or another, causing the rudder to move accordingly and alter your boat’s course.

3. What are some advantages of using a sailboat tiller instead of a wheel?

Ah, an excellent question! Using a sailboat tiller has several advantages over using a wheel. First and foremost, one can have better feel and feedback when steering with a tiller. This allows for more precise control and maneuverability in challenging conditions.

Moreover, tillers are generally considered simpler and require fewer moving parts than wheels. This simplicity translates into easier maintenance and potential cost savings.

4. Are there different types of sailboat tillers?

Yes indeed! Sailboat tillers come in various types depending on their design and construction materials. The most common types include wooden tillers (often made from teak or ash), fiberglass composite reinforced ones (more lightweight), carbon fiber (high performance), and stainless steel variants (durable but less common).

5. How long should my sailboat’s tiller be?

The length of your sailboat’s tiller depends on several factors, such as the size of your boat and personal preference. As a general guideline, tillers for smaller sailboats tend to be shorter, usually between 24 and 36 inches. Larger boats may require longer tillers to provide enough leverage and control.

6. Can I upgrade or modify my sailboat’s tiller?

Absolutely! Sailboat tillers can be customized to fit your specific needs and preferences. Some sailors opt for ergonomic handles for added comfort, while others may choose to extend or shorten the tiller based on their sailing style. Just remember that any modifications should maintain the structural integrity of the tiller and not compromise its functionality.

7. How do I best maintain my sailboat’s tiller?

Maintaining your sailboat’s tiller is crucial for its longevity and performance. Ensure regular inspections for cracks, splits, or signs of wear and tear in wooden or composite tillers. For wooden versions, applying a protective finish like varnish can help prevent water damage.

Keep all moving parts lubricated and check for any loose connections if you have a removable tiller extension system in place. Cleaning regularly with mild soap and warm water will keep it looking its best.

There you have it – comprehensive answers to some of the most common sailboat tiller FAQs! Armed with this newfound knowledge, you’re now equipped to conquer the waters with confidence. So hoist those sails high and steer your way towards sailing success using your trusty sailboat tiller!

Essential Tips and Techniques for Handling a Sailboat Tiller

Handling a sailboat tiller requires finesse, skill, and an understanding of the nuances of sailing. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or a beginner, mastering your handling techniques is crucial for navigating smoothly through the waters. In this blog post, we will explore some essential tips and techniques to help you become an expert in sailboat tiller handling.

1. Understand the basics: Before diving into advanced techniques, it’s important to familiarize yourself with the basic principles of sailing. Understanding concepts such as wind direction, sail trim, and rudder control will lay a solid foundation for your tiller handling skills.

2. Maintain a relaxed grip: Many sailors tend to hold the tiller too tightly out of fear of losing control. However, this can lead to overcorrections and jerky movements. Instead, strive to maintain a relaxed grip on the tiller handle – imagine holding a bird that you don’t want to scare away.

3. Use subtle movements: Contrary to popular belief, steering a sailboat should not involve aggressive or forceful movements. Instead, focus on making small adjustments by gently moving the tiller left or right. Subtle inputs allow for better control and responsiveness while maintaining stability.

4. Adapt to changing conditions: Sailing conditions can vary greatly from calm seas to gusty winds. As such, it’s crucial to adapt your tiller handling accordingly. During light winds or flat water conditions, use smooth motions and gentle touches for precise steering. In contrast, when faced with strong winds or choppy seas, be prepared to apply more force while keeping your movements controlled.

5. Stay balanced: Maintaining balance is key when it comes to successful tiller handling. Be mindful of how your body weight transfers as you steer – leaning too far in any direction can affect your boat’s stability and maneuverability.

6.Trust your senses: While it’s important to pay attention to instruments like wind indicators and boat speed, relying solely on these can compromise your ability to feel the boat’s response. Trust your senses – the sound of the wind, the tension in the sails, and the way the water moves around your rudder. This connection will help you anticipate changes and make adjustments intuitively.

7. Practice makes perfect: Becoming proficient in sailboat tiller handling requires practice! Head out on the water as much as possible to refine your skills. Experiment with different techniques, challenge yourself by sailing in various conditions, and seek feedback from experienced sailors. Remember that being a master at tiller handling is a continuous learning process.

In conclusion, mastering sailboat tiller handling involves finesse, adaptability, and practice. By understanding the basics and employing subtle movements while maintaining balance, you can confidently navigate through any sailing condition. Trust your instincts and let your senses guide you towards becoming an expert in sailboat tiller handling. So hoist those sails and set off on a path to mastering one of sailing’s most essential skills!

The Advantages of Using a Sailboat Tiller: Why You Should Consider it

Title: The Advantages of Using a Sailboat Tiller: Why You Should Consider it

Introduction: Embracing the age-old tradition of sailing has always been a captivating choice for adventurers, nature enthusiasts, and even those seeking an escape from the chaos of modern life. While advancements in technology have introduced various steering mechanisms over the years, the classic sailboat tiller remains a beloved and timeless option. In this blog post, we delve into why using a sailboat tiller carries numerous advantages that make it an appealing choice for sailors of all levels.

1. Connection with your Vessel: One of the most enchanting aspects of sailing is establishing a profound connection with your boat and the elements around you. By utilizing a sailboat tiller, you are granted an irreplaceable physical connection to effortlessly navigate your vessel through wind and waves. It’s as if your movements become one with the boat’s response, allowing you to hone your sailing skills while feeling every gust personally. This intimate relationship between sailor and craft fosters unparalleled confidence and control on the water.

2. Enhanced Maneuverability: Unlike mechanical systems such as wheels or electronic controls, sailboat tillers offer superior sensitivity for navigating waters both tranquil and tempestuous alike. With even the subtlest touch on a properly balanced tiller, you can instantly determine changes in direction or course adjustments. This responsiveness enables nimble maneuverability, essential when navigating tight channels or evading potential obstacles swiftly. Feel like an oceanic acrobat as you effortlessly pivot through sharp turns or gracefully glide through narrow passages – all thanks to your trusty sailboat tiller.

3. Simplicity is Key: In a world often dominated by complex technologies, embracing simplicity can be truly refreshing – enter the humble yet reliable sailboat tiller. Its straightforward construction means minimal maintenance requirements compared to intricate wheel-based controls or motorized alternatives that may suffer electrical failures at inconvenient times. With a sailboat tiller, you can wave goodbye to unexpected technological glitches and focus on enjoying the timeless art of sailing.

4. Cost-Effective Solution: Whether you are a seasoned sailor or just embarking on your nautical journey, managing expenses is always a consideration. Opting for a sailboat tiller proves advantageous in terms of cost-effectiveness. The simplicity of this steering mechanism translates into fewer parts that can break or wear out, reducing repair and replacement costs significantly. Additionally, due to its durability and minimal upkeep needs, investing in a high-quality sailboat tiller ensures long-term savings while maintaining the authentic sailing experience.

5. Harmonious Aesthetics: Beyond practicality, aesthetics play an undeniable role in our love affair with sailboats. The elegantly curved woodwork of a traditional tiller adds a touch of timeless charm to any vessel. Their graceful presence compliments the natural surroundings and matches perfectly with the classic vibes associated with sailing adventures. Choosing a sailboat tiller elevates not only your sailing experience but also the visual appeal of your boat – allowing you to enjoy both style and substance as you glide through picturesque horizons.

Conclusion: The enchantment lies within the simplicity – opting for a sailboat tiller unlocks numerous advantages that go beyond steering your vessel gracefully through vast oceans or serene lakes. By forging an intimate connection between sailor and boat, enhancing maneuverability, simplify maintenance routines, offering cost-effective qualities, and enriching aesthetics; the loyal companion that is the sailboat tiller truly captivates those who seek both functionality and undeniable charm when embarking upon their maritime adventures

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Your Sailboat Tiller

Title: Mastering the Art of Troubleshooting Your Sailboat Tiller with Finesse

Introduction: Sailing has always held a profound allure, empowering adventurers to embrace the vastness of the open water. Yet, every sailor knows that even the most captivating journey can be momentarily interrupted by pesky issues. In this blog post, we will delve into troubleshooting common problems that often plague sailboat tillers, equipping you with expert advice and a touch of wit, so you can navigate the waters seamlessly.

1. The Case of Unpredictable Steering: Picture this – you’re confidently sailing towards the horizon when suddenly your sailboat’s steering becomes as unpredictable as a mischievous imp! If your tiller seems to have developed a mind of its own, fear not; we’re here to help. Possible causes: – Loose Connections: Inspect all connections between your tiller and rudder for signs of looseness or wear. Make sure they are securely fastened. – Misaligned Rudder: A misaligned rudder can cause erratic steering behavior. Double-check its position using alignment marks and adjust accordingly. – Debris or Fouling: It’s not uncommon for debris like seaweed or fishing lines to become entangled around your rudder assembly. Conduct regular inspections and clear any obstructions promptly.

2. The Dreadful Wobble: A wobbly tiller can transform a serene sail into an involuntary dance routine on deck, leaving even seasoned sailors longing for stability once more. Potential solutions: – Tighten Components: Ensure that all nuts, bolts, and screws securing your tiller system are appropriately tightened – but avoid over-tightening which may restrict movement. – Seized Bushings or Bearings: If excessive play is present in your steering mechanism due to worn or seized bushings/bearings, it might be time for some maintenance. Disassemble the necessary parts and inspect them for damage. – Replace Worn Parts: Over time, regular use can take its toll on your tiller’s components. Identify any excessively worn parts and replace them to restore stability.

3. The Stubborn Squeak: Ah, the dreaded squeak – a persistent companion that’d make even the most stoic sailor cringe with annoyance. An unruly squeaky tiller can disturb tranquility on deck, but fret not – silence is just around the corner! Possible remedies: – Lubrication Magic: Applying a suitable marine lubricant to all moving parts of your tiller mechanism can work wonders in combating squeaks. Be thorough in your application but avoid over-lubricating as it could attract dirt or cause components to slip. – Inspection for Wear: A close examination of fittings, hinges, and connecting points might reveal signs of wear or corrosion that contribute to the noise. Replace damaged parts promptly.

4. The Sticky Tiller Challenge: When your tiller resists smooth movements and decides to cling onto one position like a stubborn barnacle, life at sea becomes slightly more frustrating than you bargained for. Potential solutions: – Cleaning and Greasing: Remove any accumulated dirt or salt residue from your rudder assembly and apply an appropriate grease or silicone lubricant along the contact points between moving parts. – Barnacle Busters: Inspect your rudder system for barnacles or other marine organisms clinging to it. If found, remove them diligently using suitable brushes or scrapers.

Final Thoughts: A skillful sailor knows that understanding their sailboat’s quirks is key to maintaining smooth sailing experiences amidst unpredictable seas. Armed with these troubleshooting tips and a dose of light-hearted cleverness, you’re now ready to address common problems that afflict sailboat tillers with confidence and finesse! Let nothing stand in the way of your nautical adventures!

Recent Posts

• Sailboat Gear and Equipment
• Sailboat Lifestyle
• Sailboat Maintenance
• Sailboat Racing
• Sailboat Tips and Tricks
• Sailboat Types
• Sailing Adventures
• Sailing Destinations
• Sailing Safety
• Sailing Techniques

• My Boats & Boat Articles
• Boatbuilding Plans
• Free Stitch and Glue Boat Plans
• Info about Cedar

Steps in Building a SCAMP sailboat

Links to all my scamp building pages.

Making a Tiller for SCAMP Sailboat

The rudder case is all done except for finishing so I can take measurements for the tiller

Last time I was at the lumber yard I saw a beautiful piece of black walnut. I grabbed it thinking it would make a lovely tiller.

Tiller pattern

Simeon Baldwin has sent me a copy of the pattern he had used. I modified the end slightly to have a slight bulge. After checking the rudder size against the boat I also added a couple of inches to the back end of the rudder. That can be trimmed if it turns out to be too long. I think several people have used a version of this tiller plan for their SCAMPS.

I drafted the pattern onto a piece of paper and cut it out. I glued the paper onto the wood. Once it had dried I used the band saw to cut the blank. I had also used the bandsaw to make the wood the right thickness to fit through the rudder case. That left me a nice little slab of black walnut for other projects.

Shaping the Scamp tiller

Once I had the blank cut out I smoothed it out using the sander and fitted it into the rudder case. I had to sand a small amount off but it soon went in with just a bit of play.

I tried the tiller case/rudder against the boat and things seemed to fit without any problem.

At this point the edges need to be rounded and the end bulge smoothed out. I'm not completely sure how I want to shape it. I'll try a few tools and see what works best.

The router with a rounding bit worked but I think it is too bulky still. I don't think the wood needs to be as thick as this. It feels bulky to the hand. Since the walnut is quite strong, strength this will not be an issue and I can thin the tiller quite a lot.

After the router I used a plane for the outside and a spoke shave for the inside curved surface. The plane is easier for me to use because I'm more familiar. The spokeshave worked but I had more trouble controlling it.

Now its just a matter of gradually removing material and tapering the end till it feels just right. It's hardwood but not impossible to shape. The colour is going to be very pretty.

I've been using the sander to complete the shape. I think this is a case of "good enough". The tiller is one piece that can be modified quite easily so I'm not going to over think it. The shape feels good to the hand, it fits in the rudder case nicely, it's time to varnish.

I'm using Epiphane varnish. It's lovely to use and goes on very well. I expect I will use 6 or 7 coats.

The walnut was interesting to use. The grain differs a lot in hardness so that when I was sanding I would run across ridges of hard wood.

The colour of the wood really came alive when I varnished it. I now have to decide if I want a tiller extension. I've never used one so I'm not sure.

emails: Christine

If you decide to build a boat be careful. These tools can be dangerous. If you don't know how to safely handle something find out. There are lots of forums out there.

This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view. I don't claim to be an expert in anything, just some little old lady muddling along.

• Search forums
• Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader

Making a tiller

• Thread starter sighmoon
• Start date 30 Jan 2008
• 30 Jan 2008

Active member

My tiller's become delaminated, and is generally looking rather tired, so I'd like to make a new one. The rudder stock at cockpit floor level, and in order to have sufficient clearance, the tiller needs to rise to about 18 inches within about 18 inches horizontaly (i.e. cockpit benches are 18 inches deep, and the cockpit is 3 foot wide) . Would a tiller with one curve, joining the stock at about 45 degrees to the floor be significantly weaker than an S shaped tiller which joined the stock approximately horizontal? Is a laminated tiller going to be much stronger than a non laminated one? Would a laminated tiller be much more work to make than a solid one? What sort of wood would work best? I was thinking teak. Any other advice / considerations would be most welcome. Thanks, Simon  

Well-known member

My tiller was completely delaminated when I bought the boat - even with fibreglass repairs that had gone rotten. I simply pulled all the laminates apart and reglued it, putting a couple of (birch) strips in where the wood was too rotten to re-use. Use clamps to hold it. Then sanded and varnished, it looks really superb. Desperately easy job. That was seven years ago and am now re-varnishing it for the third time but it still looks great. Don't be put off by it simply looking tatty - wood buffs up beautifully with a bit of TLC.  

Hi Simon For a tiller with much curvature, a laminated tiller will always be stronger than a solid one. I've made one, there's a fair amount of work, but the final result is very satisfying. I purchased teak from Howells, 0.25 x 2.25 inch to finish at 2 inches, a power plane is useful for this part of the job.. Glued with West epoxy against a former consisting of short blocks screwed to a baseboard. You can't have too many G clamps! My tiller has about 40 degree curve in 40 inches, mostly in the forward half. Myself, I wouldn't like to go much more than that. Your S shaped proposal sounds a bit severe to me. Go for it  

Taking a second mortgage out for the teak? A laminated tiller will be much stronger than a solid tiller, and IMHO probably look much better. With a laminated tiller you can choose thin pieces of timber that are fault free and cheaper than a solid piece, on my old boat I got offcuts from the timber yard in ash and mahog for nothing, it made a lovely tiller. Probably more difficult to make than a conventional solid piece one, but have you priced up a piece of solid hardwood to do the job - frightening. also if its curved, cut from a single piece it will be very weak at points on the curve where the grain is cut. You can mould shapes easily with thin strips, mine was with 6mm strips steamed in a short length of drain pipe with a kettle, crude but effective them shaped round block fastened to a polythene covered piece of 18 mm ply board. Glued with a water activated epoxy expanding adhesive you finally end up with a tiller curved to perfection with a nice candy striped effect, the ash gives a note of flexibility, the mahog resilience. as for wether it arrives at the stock at right angles or not depends on a host of things, clearance required in the cockpit? how its fixed to the stock? are you re-using existing fittings? but I would have thought a copy of the original shape might be best. generally ash is easily available and flexible. cherry is similar in appearance, darkens gently with age and fairly flexible, chestnut similar to ash, all easily worked, For the dark stripes, any of the false mahogs will do except keruin which is awful to work, hard and brittle. you stand a good chance if you go round to your local woodyard or joiners shop of scrounging enough of pieces of the above from their offcuts rack, they're notorious for keeping bits that 'might come in useful someday' If you catch them at the right time,they will probably stand and chat and say things like 'use this rather than this, it steams better'  

Thanks all!  

For examples of what laminating can achieve: www.tonymackillican.co.uk  

Burnham_Bob

don't give up on the delaminated one. Mine was literally coming apart. I took it off and dried it on the radiator. Then forcing it apart stuck as much two part epoxy in as i could in all the cracks. Then the tricky but was squeezing it tight. I used my Black and Decker workmate to close it, then slipped a clamp on to keep it shut, moved the tiller up, tightended the black and decker again, added another clamp etc. The clamps won't allow you enough pressure to close the gaps but a vice or a workmate will, and then the clamps will hold is shut. Epoxy oozed out the sides and i scraped it off before it dried. Then once it was all set solid, scraped and sanded back down to the bare wood. There are a few tell tale grey lines in the laminate but it all seems perfectly strong and now its varnished looks attractive. The end was crumbling so I built it back up with epoxy putty and shaped it, finally painting the end with a red spray car enamel to match the boat's overall red colour scheme. Its a day's job rather than hours of steaming, sticking and cutting. Try repairing the old one first - but do dry it out properly. Its the black lines that show you where water is getting in.  

andrewbodenham

Laminating is an easy concept, but not always so easy in practice. Given that the tiller is a safety-critical part of the boat you need to get it right. I suggest you do a few experiements first, and put the job out to a professional woodworker if you feel less than 100% conifident. Compared to some of the other costs of boat ownership a new tiller is not likely to be too painful. The long-term success of a laminated part depends on getting all the mating surfaces in close contact with each other, and achieveing first-class glue joints. So the wood needs to be dry, flat and carefully finished. Moisture content should be compatible with the adhesive to be used. I'd avoid steaming to bend the laminates, as this raises the m/c of the wood and introduces dimensional change where you don't want it. Instead, make the laminates an appropriate thickness to take up the desired bend, and use a strong former and substantial cramps to ensure tight joints. A few hours spent reading up on the theory will be time well spent. Regards choice of wood: teak is durable but can be difficult to glue reliably due to its oily nature. One of the tropical hardwoods (e.g. mahogany) would work well if you can square the eco-conscience circle - maybe look out for some reclaimed stock. Ash is often suggested for tillers, but is non-durable so needs to be well coated. A common failing of laminated parts is when the coating breaks down and allows moisture in. If two different species have been used (for stripey effect) then differential expansion can cause tiny dislocations along the glue lines at the surface, leading to a vicious spiral of further cracking and water ingress. Hence all the other posters with their delaminating tiller stories. However, a well made laminated tiller in good condition will nearly always be stronger thana sawn-from-solid one if there is any appreciable curvature.  

Other threads that may be of interest

• 25 Aug 2024
• down...2 greens
• 10 Sep 2024
• EssexPrincess
• Motor Boat Forum

Members online

• AntarcticPilot
• jonathanhsm
• Laminar Flow
• Buck Turgidson

Share this page

Log in or Sign up

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser .

How do I made a tiller comb or tiller lock for a smaller sailboat

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Zammie , Mar 5, 2015 .

Zammie New Member

Hello all. I have an older Snipe sailboat and REALLY need to be able to temporarily lock down that tiller (for sail adjustments, grab a new beer, man over board, etc...) I found this sample (see link below) but would like to consider other affordable options and see what you brilliant minds are thinking & doing! Cheers mate. Jason  

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

Tiller combs have been around for generations and making one up, shouldn't prove a terribly difficult engineering problem or fabrication project. They also have manufactured products, such as the "tiller tamer" and the like. For what it's worth, you should never (NEVER) lock down the tiller for MOB operations. The image above shows an excessive amount of comb, which just isn't reasonable. You only need enough comb to hold the helm at about 5 degrees to the centerline. That one looks like it could hold a 30 degree helm deflection, which is way over the top in terms of need.  

gonzo Senior Member

Traditionally, you hold the tiller with your foot or between your legs. Locking the tiller on a centerboard dinghy is never a good idea.  

In light air locking down the tiller isn't problematic, though most do it anyway, in spite of the potential issues. The same is true of cleating sheets, most do it, in spite of the potential issues. Everyone learns this lesson once they have to chase down a runaway boat, with it's sheet cleated and just after they've decided to inadvertently self practice a MOB drill.  

philSweet Senior Member

For casual sailing, a larger rudder is the single best thing you could do. Next comes a tiller extension. Mine was just a 1/2 x 1/2 strip of mahogany attached with a lashing to a hole drilled in the tiller. The extension allows you to take the tiller with you for 3 feet (or be 3 feet closer to it, at least). Lastly, you probably already have some way of locking the tiller for transport or when leaving the boat at the dock. I used a bungee straight down to the floor frame. The tiller had an eye on its underside. If the gf and I were dallying our way across the Florida Bay in light air for three hours with cameras, binoculars, tunes, and a couple of lines out, that bungee did just fine.  

I came across this tiller "tamer" (as we all agree locking the tiller is bad) on Amazon and think it is worth sharing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...as2&tag=boatdesignnet&linkId=R64W2QZORAZB3PLG  

tdem Senior Member

You can just have a bungy/elastic that runs across the width of the cockpit underneath the tiller. When you want to lock it down take a turn or two around the tiller.  

OrcaSea Senior Member

I'm not close to rigging my 16' yet, but this is something I have been spending a lot of time thinking about. I will almost always be single handing my little boat, and I have wondered about tiller control while trying to adjust the vang or luff tension or jib block position, etc., on a boat when those things are not all ran through blocks, etc., to a central location. It certainly makes good safety sense to never cleat the main sheet, etc., but I can't see a way to not have some sort of temp friction lock, etc., on the tiller and properly trim & adjust while single handed and trying to keep a simple/inexpensive rig...? If there are ways to do it I'd love some pointers!  

• Advertisement:

coachjpg New Member

'61 Friendship Sloop, 25' on deck.  

New handmade sailboat launched

Custom made keel?

what was name of tiny sailboat made 1999?

Tiller handle length

Waszp rudder box & tiller

Whipstaff (broomstick) vertical tiller inside helm station - Roger Taylor's version...

Carbon tiller design

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

World Class Rudders, Tillers, and other Gear for Real Life Sailing

Sailboat rudders, sailboat tillers, custom rudders/ tillers, sailboat accessories, rudder repair worksheet, instructional handbook, looking for a product for your sailboat.

Can't Find your Sailboat?

Why Rudder Craft?

At Rudder Craft we build every sailboat rudder with the singular focus of improving your sailboat’s steering performance. In order to accomplish this our sailboat rudders incorporate a hydrofoil design, as a matter of course. Sailboats ranging from the West Wight Potter 15, all the way up to the MacGregor 36 and Catalina 42, will find a more accurate helm once a Rudder Craft hydrofoil sailboat rudder is installed.

Why Hydrofoil?

Operating on principles similar to airplane wings, the foiled sailboat rudder design generates lift as the sailboat makes way. By employing the sailboat rudder to reduce drag, and increasing the force the sailboat rudder is able to exert, any sailboat will find themselves performing better: weather helm is reduced, tacking is crisper, points of sail are easier to keep, and helm effort is greatly reduced in light and moderate air.

Why Use a Kick-up Rudder?

Subscribe to our blog.

Join our mailing list to receive the latest news and updates from our team.

You have Successfully Subscribed!

No results found.

The page you requested could not be found. Try refining your search, or use the navigation above to locate the post.

Blog Coming Soon!

Customer reviews.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Dufour 44 Used Boat Review

Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Solving the Dodger Dilemma

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

Why Choose the Wharram Design?

Winterizing: Make It Easy With Checklists

Boat Improvements for the Technically Illiterate

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Sailing Gear for Kids

What’s the Best Sunscreen?

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

• Marine Electronics

The Tricked Out Tillerpilot

Self-contained tillerpilots are a simple and darn handy means of steering a smaller sailboat, particularly when sailing solo. For the singlehander a tillerpilot is invaluable when you are hoisting and dousing sail, tacking in a breeze, or ducking below to grab a sandwich. When you’re cruising, the tillerpilot relieves the tyranny of the tiller, and probably steers a better course than you can, especially as your mind wanders.

Installation is dead simple. A pair of wires (a few more if you add wind instruments or a remote), a pin on the tiller, and a mounting socket on the coaming or seat. The makers even specify the exact installation dimensions; a one-size-fits-all design. Raymarine and Simrad dominate the tillerpilot market, making very similar units with nearly identical mounting arrangements. This article is based on the Raymarine ST2000. The test boat for this exercise is my Corsair F-24 MKI trimaran, 24 feet long and weighing about 2300 pounds as sailed.

When deciding where to mount the tillerpilot, two measurements are important. I’ll be referring to these two measurements throughout this report.

• Dimension A , measured athwartship with the tiller centered, is the distance between the mounting socket for the drive unit and the pin on the tiller where the drive arm connects (socket to tiller-pin).

• Dimension B , measured fore and aft, is the distance from the head of the rudder stock to the pin where the tillerpilot connects (see Figure 4 in “A Modified Tillerpilot Setup”).

The reason for Dimension A is obvious. The tiller needs to be centered when the drive is centered (24.5 inches for Raymarine tillerpilots, 23.5 inches for Simrad tillerpilots). Extensions are available to move the mounting socket or extend the pushrod to accommodate wide cockpits, high coamings, etc. (The requirement for the drive to be level is also obvious; an upwards angle will allow the push-rod to lift off the pin.)

The reasoning behind Dimension B is less obvious. The length of this measurement will determine the amount of leverage the pilot can exert, the range of tiller motion, and the velocity at which the push-rod moves the tiller. Doesn’t the required tiller movement and speed vary from boat to boat?

Theoretically, a 36-foot boat would requires 50 percent greater movement (in degrees) to create the same rate of turn as a 24-foot boat, since the rudder is 50 percent farther from the keel, but the heavier boat carries more momentum through tacks and probably favors a slower turn. The same is true of adjustments for gusts and waves.

How far and how quickly we move the tiller also depends on boat speed (a faster moving boat will require less rudder to change course), waves (rough seas require more exaggerated rudder movements), and crew. There is no point in tacking faster than the crew can get the jib across.

I know that if I casually tack a multi-hull in rough conditions, I can risk getting stuck in irons. Also, I move the tiller farther and more quickly in a dinghy than on a cruising boat. Based on these observations, it seems like Dimension B should be shorter for boats that require greater rudder movement to respond. Raymarine calls for a distance of 18 inches, but I’ve seen numerous installations as short as 14 inches on smaller boats, and the owners seem pleased.

TAKING A TEST DRIVE

Before making changes to the mounting position, go sailing and carefully observe the following on your boat:

• Range of Motion When Tacking . What is the average range required to tack? The tillerpilot applies its maximum range when you engage “autotack,” so you want that range to be close to what is required for your average turn. A smaller angle may put you into irons. An angle slightly larger than needed may help give you more time for you to tack the jib.

• Required Drive Force . How hard do you need to pull on the tiller during a hard gust? How hard do you pull at the extreme range when tacking? To estimate load on a tillerpilot drive, multiply the maximum force you apply by the length of the tiller in inches, then multiply that by 150 percent to allow for waves. Divide that number by 18 inches (Dimension B, the suggested tiller-pin location). Then apply a generous safety factor for long life. For an example, see the table “Corsair F-24 Helm Data”.

• Rate of Speed . How fast do you move the tiller? Observe your helm over time both tacking and sailing off the wind. These are typically the quickest helm movements that a tillerpilot will be expected to carry out.

Faster isn’t always better. For example, you shouldn’t just slam the rudder over to leeward when tacking; that stalls the rudder, increases turbulence over the hull, and slows the boat. Instead, move the tiller gradually but steadily until the maximum rate of turn is achieved.

We want to do the same thing when exiting a turn. You want to move through the turn quickly, but without slowing too much. The optimum rate of turn varies with speed, wave conditions, and hull design. (Note: If the push-rod rate is too slow, its adjustments could coincide with the boat’s yaw, initiating cyclical yawing, which will be noticeable as the tillerpilot over-compensates).

As you determine this criteria for your boat, you effectively create a rectangular zone within which you can install your tillerpilot. Raymarine used to allow this kind of flexibility in their installation manual, stating that measurement B could be anywhere between 14 to 18 inches. For its newer EV series, the company has settled on 18 inches.

I measured the dimensions my dealer had used to install my Raymarine ST2000 tillerpilot on our Corsair. Dimension A was as prescribed—24.5 inches from socket to pin. To my surprise, Dimension B was 21 inches, considerably greater than the manufacturer’s recommendation. This was probably why the autotack feature did not work well on my boat, especially at low speeds, or in a seaway. The installer had simply picked the most convenient place to mount the socket.

To find a more effective location for the tillerpilot, I measured my maximum and typical rudder angles when tacking in a range of conditions (see “Corsair F-24 Helm Data”). In very light winds or big waves, I apply more helm, as much as 25 degrees (50 degrees total). In average conditions I apply about 20 degrees (40 degrees total). I may occasionally use more than 25 degrees when docking, but I don’t need that range on autopilot.

The tillerpilot hard-over time is actually a little quicker than my typical tacking turn, but since the dealer-installed tillerpilot’s maximum rudder angle (26 degrees) is less than what I’ve found to be optimum (40 degrees), the faster helm helps offset this deficiency.

Assuming reasonable sail balance, the highest tiller force measured at the end of my tiller is about 10 pounds. This is equal to about 16 pounds of force at a point 18 inches from the rudder stock and equal to 21 pounds force at 14 inches. The tiller load during ordinary sailing is less than 2 pounds (see “Corsair F-24 Helm Data”).

TYPICAL SPECIFICATIONS

The stroke length for both the Raymarine ST1000 and ST2000 is 9.3 inches. For the Simrad TP10, TP22, and TP32, the stroke length is 10 inches.

This means that the standard installation allows for about 16 degrees in rudder angle change (32 degrees total), or half of the usable rudder range, depending on the boat. The maximum force for these tiller­pilots ranges from 125-170 pounds, the equivalent of 70-90 pounds of force at the tiller end.

To keep forces well below this maximum, I aimed to keep tillerpilot loads in any installation below the equivalent of 24 pounds when steered by hand. This is a very heavy helm, but some of the tillerpilot setups we tested were very inefficient, and the tiller required more force than normal.

The Raymarine ST2000 takes 4.5 seconds lock-to-lock (push-rod fully extended to fully retracted). The Simrad TP32 needs 4.7 seconds. (Lighter duty versions are about half these speeds.) This is fast enough for boats of average weight and greater than 25 feet, but a little slow for multihulls and sport boats.

The test boat for this exercise is a Corsair F-24 MKI trimaran, 24 feet long and weighing about 2,300 pounds as sailed. The rudder stock is located about 10 inches forward of the transom and the centerboard is about 3.5 feet deep. The tiller is 31 inches long.

When sailing to windward, the helm is very light, and because the rudder is small and well balanced, the helm remains light even during sharp maneuvering. One finger is all you need most of the time, even past the reefing point.

INTERNAL COMPASS

In some non-standard installations, the unit will not be at a right angles to the centerline, causing the compass deviation to change through the tack. This has the effect of reducing the auto­tack turn angle during the latter portion of the tacks to port, slowing the completion of the maneuver. The compass deviation during our testing ranged from 4 to 13 degrees, and depended on the angle of the tillerpilot during a turn.

This temporary deviation is relatively harmless, and disappears when the tiller re-centers on the new tack. In a standard installation, when the tillerpilot is mounted square to the tiller, this type of error is non-existent.

On a related topic, before installing a tillerpilot, use a hand-bearing compass to check for deviation at any potential mounting locations. Be careful where you place large metal objects (or devices with magnets). A chisel next to a tillerpilot is enough to fool its internal compass.

IDEAL TILLER-SOCKET DISTANCE

In the Corsair, we found that 14 inches for Measurement B offered the best compromise. But every boat is different.

If you have a full keel boat with a barn-door rudder, the helm can get heavy in strong conditions, so you want to increase the tillerpilot’s ­leverage. You can do this by adding another tiller-pin closer to the tip of the tiller.

If you place the tiller-pin at 22 inches (instead of the prescribed 18 inches), your leverage is increased by 21-22 percent. However, the helm range is reduced by 18 percent.

The 18-percent reduction in helm response is unlikely to make a difference when sailing a straight line and you could increase the unit’s gain setting by one level to compensate. If you want greater rudder angles, leave the original, 18-inch tiller-pin in place.

This you will give you a setting for normal sailing loads (18-inch position) and another for heavy-weather (22-inch position). In the higher leverage, “heavy weather” position, you’ll need a short push-rod extension to center the tillerpilot, but this isn’t essential if you are sailing a straight line and not using the tillerpilot to tack.

Or maybe you have a light boat that would benefit from quicker tacking in some conditions. If you can’t move the mounting socket farther aft, perhaps you can move the pin aft to 14-16 inches and extend the pushrod 0.6 to 0.8 inches using a DIY extender (see “Essential Autopilot Accessories”). Alternatively, you can extend the pushrod with a Raymarine Pushrod Extension ($32). The leverage is reduced, so don’t try this on a boat of more than 4,000 pounds or you can strain the tillerpilot.

SEA STATE ADJUSTMENTS

All installations can benefit from a review of the standard gain and damping settings. Gain determines the amount the drive reacts to being off-course. Damping (sea state) determines the delay before the tillerpilot makes a correction.

Use too much gain and the boat will overshoot, steering to both sides of the true course. Use too little gain and the boat will never quite reach the new heading. Too little damping and the pilot will be adjusting constantly, eating amps and wearing itself out, but with too much damping it will wander far off course before the rudder corrects.

Can we compensate for incorrect pin location with tuning alone? Only within limits, because gain and damping don’t change the speed of the drive or the length of the stroke. These settings are for dealing with sea conditions, not the geometry of the installation.

However, if you shorten the distance between the rudder stock and tiller pin (Dimension B) you may need to reduce gain to avoid overcorrection. Similarly, if you lengthen the same dimension, you may want to increase gain slightly to correct for the reduced helm range. Review your manual for more information on tuning gain and other features.

TESTING INSTALLATIONS

Decades ago, I installed a Simrad TP22 on a Stiletto 27 catamaran (1,800 pounds fully loaded). I decided to set Dimension B at an excessive 43 inches because I could not install it farther back on the hulls.

It worked fine at high speeds—we motored and sailed at 12-16 knots much of the time—but it would not autotack and it could not control the boat when we were hoisting sails at slow speeds. I considered creating a quadrant to solve the Dimension B problem, but that seemed impractical.

So, I compensated. The cockpit was laid out so that tacking while single-handed was not difficult. When taking the sails down, I just motored faster to stay on course. I had hank-on sails, so this often resulted in a bouncy dance on the foredeck. The lesson here is that if you increase Dimension B to get more leverage, this ultimately limits the range of rudder angle.

The dealer installation of the tillerpilot on my F-24 was also incorrect. Although Dimension A was correct (24.5 inches), Dimension B was 21 inches, a full 3 inches beyond the factory recommendation of 18 inches. I selected the two most promising options from my drawings and tested them against the dealer positioning. For the following installations, I did not change the gain settings:

• 21-inch socket, 21-inch tiller-pin. At normal sailing and motoring speeds, steering was stable with this arrangement, but sluggish when changing course. At slower speeds, such as hoisting sail into the wind, steering was erratic and off-course alarms were common unless I maintained a minimum speed of 4 knots. The autotack feature did not function, and frequently put the boat in irons. I could make autotack function in most conditions if I first pushed twice on the +10- degree course change button, but the turn was still slow and the boat would come out of the tack 20-30 degrees broad on the wind.

• 14-inch socket, 14 inch tiller-pin. The autotack turns to port were considerably crisper. There was less compass deviation than in a setup that relocated only the tiller-pin to 14 inches. With the tillerpilot square to the centerline, the compass read true. With the tillerpilot in this position, I tacked singlehanded 15 times in a row.

It came out of the tack on-course and with good speed every time, because the turn was consistent and because I could trim sails without distraction. I tested this setup in winds from light to 20 knots; beating, power reaching, and broad reaching; tacking, jibing, and hoisting sails. Yawing while broad reaching was very noticeably reduced.

The only problem I noticed was that the gain was a bit too high going dead downwind in light air. The solution was to move the pilot to the original 21-inch pin and socket positions, which is simpler than adjusting the gain setting and has the same effect.

• 21-inch socket, 14-inch pin. By adding a 0.8-inch pushrod extension to center the ­tiller, steering was improved. Autotack worked, and steering at lower speeds was also greatly improved. I sailed for hours with this combination.

Want to try different tillerpilot positions without drilling holes? Mount a tiller-pin on a metal plate and strap that to the tiller with hose clamps (padded with cloth or tape). Extend the push-rod as needed with the rubber hose DIY extension. This will let you know if it will be worth the effort to also move the tillerpilot mounting socket to a new location.

We understand why the manufactures are firm in their one-size-fits-all installation recommendations. For most boats the results in helm angle and pushrod force are in a reasonable range that will not damage the tiller­pilot. Even small installation errors, unless well thought out can result in poor performance and potentially damage to the unit by overloading it. But smart adjustments may help boats at both ends of the size spectrum.

The maximum tillerpilot helm range should coincide with the average helm used when tacking. Less range means you might not make it through the tack, and too much movement will make the boat turn too fast for the jib to come across.

For heavier boats we recommend adding heavy weather pin at 20-22 inches; you will lose some loss in tacking ability but the pilot won’t work as hard. For quick boats, reducing Dimension B to 14-16 inches can improve tacking, performance at low speed, and performance in waves. And by all means, keep the standard locations. They may be best for routine sailing. Another option is to upgrade to a Pelagic Standard Tillerpilot, which we will discuss in an upcoming review.

Tiller-steered boats should be designed with tillerpilot mounting in mind. If a dealer installs your tillerpilot, ask them to use the prescribed mounting positions. After careful evaluation and testing at sea, there is room for modification.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

The Performance Sailboat from Island Packet: Blue Jacket 40 Boat Review

Top 3 Winter Boat HACKS!

Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review

Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Bobby's Boat Works

Bobby's Boat Works

Rudders, Dagger Boards, and Tillers.

Products and Services

In stock components.

We have many rudders, daggerboard, tillers and other items premade and ready to ship.  To see these items please use the shop button at the top of the page and navigate to the item you need for your boat.

Made to Order Components

Due to a high demand for stock items and a large backlog, we are not taking any custom orders at this time.

I built my first boat in 2005 and found the building process to be almost as much fun as being out on the water. Since that time I have built several boats, some for me and some for others.   In December 2019 I decided to buy John Owens' business of making rudders, daggerboards and tillers for several production boats. I always found that these were some of my favorite parts to make during a boat build.  The foil is such an intimate part to the performance of the boat and making one that water would flow smoothly over fascinated me.

a great reputation for quality products at a fair price and it is my intent to continue that tradition.

La Grange, Texas 78945

[email protected]

(979) 250-1668

Thanks for submitting!

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Make This Simple, Low-Cost Tiller Lock

If you don’t have a locking mechanism on your tiller yet, don’t you sometimes wish you did? Then you could lock the tiller in place while you attend to other things for a few minutes or under the right conditions, relax and let the boat sail itself. A tiller lock is the next best thing to having a crew member or an autopilot take the helm for you. There are several tiller lock designs on the market and all of them do a reasonable job. But like everything else marine-related, they can be expensive for what they are.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

If you’ve procrastinated adding a lock to your tiller, this project is for you. I’ll show you how you can make a simple but effective tiller lock for just a few bucks. The design is by Tom Luque, a personal friend and the mastermind at Mastgates.com . Tom invented and tested the design as a possible new product on his website. Instead, he decided to release it into the wild and he asked me to present it to you here.

Note: Except for the optional quick-release lever mentioned at the end of this article, neither Tom or I will receive any compensation if you purchase parts to make this tiller lock.

An Adjustable Rope Clamp on Your Tiller

All tiller locks are rope clamps of one variation or another. For comparison, one of the more popular commercial tiller locks is the Davis Tiller Tamer . Tom’s design avoids all unnecessary parts, complexity, and cost with an adjustable J-bolt mounted right through the tiller itself. In its simplest form, it’s three parts: a piece of rope  and a J-bolt with a knob to clamp the rope between the J-bolt and the tiller.

Here are the parts that you’ll need and a few optional parts that you may want to consider:

• 1/4″ rope long enough to tie between both sides of the transom and to lead through the J-bolt on the tiller. For very small sailboats, this could be accessory cord or paracord.
• 3/16″ diameter stainless steel J-bolt 2-1/2″ long with 10-24 threads. A shorter J-bolt may be used if it is long enough to accept a knob on top of your tiller. An online source for J-bolts is Unicorn Stainless . You can substitute a zinc plated bolt if you don’t want to use stainless steel.
• Knurled knob with 10-24 threads tapped through. You might have one of these in your spare parts from a sail track stop. If not, try your favorite hardware store.
• #10 nylon or stainless steel washer to reduce friction when you tighten the knob and to reduce wear on your tiller
• 3/16″ compression spring to keep the J-bolt pulled against the rope so that the rope cannot fall out (optional)
• Saddle from a wire rope clip the same size to fit the J-bolt and increase the grip on the J-bolt against the rope (optional). Compress the J-bolt slightly with a vise to fit the saddle, if necessary.

The only tool you will need is an electric hand drill with a 1/4″ bit.

Installation Instructions

To install the tiller lock:

• With your tiller mounted on your sailboat and aligned with the keel, find a location on the tiller where you want to install the J-bolt. It should be easy to reach but out of harm’s way. A good place is behind where you normally grip the tiller.
• Tie the 1/4″ rope to both sides of the transom—around the pushpit stanchions is a good place. You can also tie it to the aft mooring cleats. Leave enough slack in the rope so that the middle can pass through the J-bolt. The angle formed by the rope should not be less than about 90°. See How to Install a Tiller Lock  for a picture of the general arrangement.
• When you are satisfied with the location of the J-bolt and the rope ends, remove the tiller and drill a 1/4″ hole vertically through the tiller handle.
• Measure the distance across the opening of the J-bolt and drill a second hole on the bottom side of the tiller behind the first but not all the way through. Make this hole only deep enough for the short side of the J-bolt to recess into the hole and clamp the rope tightly without hitting the bottom of the hole. If you will use the optional wire rope clip saddle, the hole does not need to be as deep as it does without it. The holes should look like the picture below.
• Assemble the tiller lock as shown in the first picture.
• Make sure the J-bolt moves freely in the holes when the knob is loose and it clamps the rope tightly when you tighten the knob.

To use your new tiller lock on the water, just tighten the knob when you want to lock the tiller in place. Loosen the knob to take manual control again. If the threaded end of the J-bolt is long enough, you can loosen the knob to unhook the rope and tie it out-of-the-way when you don’t need it. If it’s not long enough but the hook end of the J-bolt has plenty to spare, you can cut a little off the hook to make it easier to remove the rope. Perfect fit and function depend on your tiller thickness and the parts you buy.

Final Thoughts

If you want to make the tiller lock even more convenient, contact Tom at Mastgates.com about a quick-release cam handle to replace the knob. Then you can apply and release the lock with a flick of the lever. If you’re an extreme DIYer, try adapting a bicycle seat clamp lever to fit the J-bolt.

If you make this tiller lock, be sure to drop by Mastgates.com and thank Tom for the great idea and his generosity. If you’re more interested in an electronic autopilot, see  How to Install a Tiller Autopilot .

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for followers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

Subscribe to Blog via Email

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Email Address:

Share this:

6 thoughts on “ make this simple, low-cost tiller lock ”.

Thanks Stingy! Jim

I’ve thought about this and I like the cam clamp idea. I’m not sure this is compatible with my tiller extension though.

Another simple winner – thank you, Mr $tingy!

I’ve only had this one installed a couple of weeks, but I love the simple, convenient, and effective design. $60 mol. http://www.wavefrontmarine.com/index.html

Love this Idea, simple and economical, and all parts readily available, Thanks

This is Tom Luque, the designer of this simple Tiller Lock. Another variation use of this system is to replace the rope with a firm shock cord. This allowed me to make immediate course changes by grabbing the tiller when some obstacle was in front of the boat and then releasing tiller to let the shock cord reset the rudder position. Thank you Stingy Sailor for sharing tips for making Sailing more enjoyable.

Leave a comment Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

• Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
• Subscribe Subscribed
• Copy shortlink
• Report this content
• View post in Reader
• Manage subscriptions
• Collapse this bar

A Simple Tiller Tender

Hands-off sailing

From Issue   September 2017

The bungee doesn’t need to be removed to use the tiller. Just push or pull the tiller and the bungee will hold it at the new angle.

I n my years of solo cruising in small boats I’ve found that there are many times when it’s helpful to have both hands free while sailing. I can free one hand by securing mainsheet with a cam cleat or slippery hitch, and then I just need something to hold the tiller in place so I can grab a bite to eat, take a compass bearing, or pull on a jacket.

There are a number of tiller tenders available commercially, but they tend to be bulky, overly complicated, and come at an added expense; from what I’ve seen, many of them also require you to engage and disengage them or adjust their tension.

On a recent cruise, though, my brother showed me a tiller tender that eliminates all those problems. It’s cheap, simple, and utterly reliable. It doesn’t need adjustment and there’s nothing to engage or disengage; you can steer the boat normally with the system in place, and whenever you need to let go of the tiller, it stays where you positioned it.

To set this system up for a conventional tiller, run a line athwartships under your tiller from rail to rail. If your boat has open gunwales or a pair of cleats well aft on the gunwales, you don’t need to add anything to anchor the ends of the line. This line needs to be just taut enough to minimize play in the tiller when the system is in use.

The tiller tender requires only a short line run across the boat under the tiller an toggled bungee loop to squeeze that line to the tiller.

Next, take a short bungee loop with a plastic ball on the end and pass the looped end around both the tiller and the loop you just rigged. Take enough turns with the bungee around both the tiller and the loop of line to pull them tightly together before tucking the plastic ball through the bungee to finish the wrap. You can always adjust the tension if you find the bungee is not tight enough and not providing enough friction to hold the tiller in place, or too tight and making the tiller hard to move.

That’s it. Your tiller tender is ready for action. You will still be able to steer normally, but the friction of the system will hold the tiller in place when you let go. You can set the tiller to hold a steady course or push the tiller hard over to tack or jibe while you tend to the sheets.

After rigging this system on my own boat, I found myself sailing hands-free most of the time, with just a slight nudge of the tiller now and then. I doubt I’ll ever go cruising again, or even daysailing, without having this simple tiller tender in place.

Tom Pamperin  is a freelance writer who lives in northwestern Wisconsin. He spends his summers cruising small boats throughout Wisconsin, the North Channel, and along the Texas coast. He is a frequent contributor to Small Boats Monthly and WoodenBoat.

Editor’s note:

A bungee loop can also be used as a tiller tender on a Norwegian tiller.

To give this system a try, I made a standard tiller that I could attach to the rudder of my Caledonia Yawl (pictured here in the photographs above) and sailed without the mizzen mast in place. I was impressed how well the bungee worked with a standard tiller and wanted to use the same method to create a tiller tender for a Norwegian tiller. I first thought about using the same length of line but set fore and aft instead of athwartships, but a thole pin presented itself as a better place to start. I put the bungee loop over the push-pull tiller and then wrapped it around both tiller and thole.

With a Norwegian tiller, the bungee can be looped onto a thole pin or other upright fixture. If the bungee loop has the tiller running through it before it is wrapped, the tiller can be lifted to disengage the tiller tender without loosing the bungee.

That’s all it took, and the bungee worked just as well in this new arrangement. I could change course by pushing or pulling the tiller and leaving it to make the boat come about or hold a straight course. I could also disengage the tiller by lifting it—along with the bungee—from the thole and have complete freedom of motion. The tiller follows me after I tack and gets wrapped with a thole pin on the windward rail.

The tiller should be held on the weather rail where it is accessible when the boat heels in a gust.

You can share your tricks of the trade with other Small Boats Monthly readers by sending us an email .

Share this article

Join The Conversation

We welcome your comments about this article. If you’d like to include a photo or a video with your comment, please email the file or link.

Comments (13)

One thing to consider is that the two legs of the line sure look like they are the radii of an ellipse. Accordingly there needs to be some slack in the system to get full range of motion for the rudder, either from the bungees around the tiller, a loose line or by using a bungee-tensioned cross line. The latter is what I have used for a while. The cross line is anchored just ahead of the rudder at small pad eye on the port gunnel, makes a turn through a small shackle attached to the forward part of the rudder, then through a pad eye on the starboard side. A bungee connects the line back to the port pad eye, creating an isosceles triangle when the rudder is centered. It is handy. Having a way to adjust the tension from the bungee is also nice.

Sure glad that wasn’t totally confusing. KISS

Ole thanks for the comment. I’m not sure I follow you about needing a cross line, or about needing adjustments to get full range of motion for the rudder–the system as described is dead simple, and works really well with just an athwartships line and a bungee holding it to the tiller. No need to adjust tension; you can use the tiller normally, but it will stay wherever you leave it when you let go. Works brilliantly.

Ole,thanks. That’s pretty much what I was picturing from your description, then. I think the system described in the article is simpler, though. Once rigged, there is no need to adjust tension in the system at all, and no moving parts (other than the tiller itself), and no hardware. The tight bungee wrapped around the tiller and athwartships line holds the tiller reliably in place (just with friction) whenever you take your hand off the tiller, but you can still steer normally, too, with full range of motion for the rudder. Try it for yourself sometime if you’re curious, and you might well find you like it better.

Or is there some advantage to your system that I’m not seeing? I admit to being biased in favor of simplicity, so maybe there’s something there I haven’t considered. Thanks for the discussion!

Sorry for the late reply. I’m glad the system is working for you. I have been really happy with how well it works, how simple it is, and how easy it is to rig. I doubt I’ll ever have a boat without it now that I’ve used it for a couple of years.

Brilliant! I like it so much I think I might remove my regular factory-made tiller tamer and use yours instead, because it allows convenient “foot-tillering”, while not having to use either hand to disengage and then re-engage the taming mechanism.

This is great! I used to just tie the tiller to an horizontal line every time I need my hands free. The idea of the bungee is definitely worth a try. 🙂

Yes, it works really well as described. The one drawback I’ve discovered is that the friction does wear out the bungee loop eventually. Depending how often you sail, you might find yourself replacing it every year, or even several times a year. Still cheap, though.

Tacos at 60 knots? LOL, just happened to notice the plate mounted on the gunnel on the CY

That plate caught the eye of one of our other readers in a photo in my review of the Gas One Mini stove. Here’s the reply I posted:

Great story. Thanks for sharing and clearing up that inside joke. Best regards and Happy Holidays!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Stay On Course

More From This Issue

From The Editor

A Leeboard for a Motorboat

Our canal boat, BONZO, wanders in the wind like on off-leash dog. The design, Phil Thiel’s Escargot, is intended for narrow waters that aren’t likely to be subject to breezes,…

Boat Profile

The diminutive yacht OYSTER, a Milford 20, is a modern take on the early New Haven sharpies that worked the oyster beds along Long Island Sound’s Connecticut shores. Inspired by…

Drake Raceboat

Clint Chase of Chase Small Craft wrote of the Drake Raceboat: “This was the first boat that I designed totally from the numbers.” It’s the third in his series of…

The Texas 200

The chop stirred up the bottom across miles of shallows, turning the water gold under the midday sun. I closed on the windward shore until I was in calmer water,…

Back-Country Baking

I once looked forward to camp sweets just as much as our young daughters do now. Pineapple-cherry dump cake baked in a Dutch oven was a staple of my Boy…

In my years of solo cruising in small boats I’ve found that there are many times when it’s helpful to have both hands free while sailing. I can free one…

Product Reviews

Pioneer Swag Tent

The nights I slept in the Outback Swag Tent, I was just camped in the back yard. After one night in it I had the information I needed and could…

Caledonia Yawl

Reader Built Boats

At the ramp, GYPSY SOUL slipped into the water for the first time. Scotty and Juilio hadn’t sailed a lug rig before, but hauled in the main sheet and took…

More Technique

A Folding Outboard Stand

Several years ago, I built a stand for the only outboard I had at that time, and it made itself useful for doing maintenance and for flushing the cooling system…

Living with Little Boats

From the 2008 Small Boats Annual - Little boats are...well...little. By my definition, they can be towed by four-cylinder cars and ride on trailers without brakes. They are usually less…

Planing Edges Square

When you give a plane a sharp edge and set it to make a fine cut, it’s easy to come neatly up to the pencil line you’re cutting to. It’s…

The Norwegian Tiller

When it came to selecting a tiller for the rudder of my Sooty Tern, UNA, I had to consider the two options designer Iain Oughtred provided for getting around the…

Subscribe Today!

Become a subscriber today and you’ll recieve a new issue every month plus unlimited access to our full archive of backlogged issues.

Already a subscriber?   Sign In

Subscribe For Full Access

Flipbooks are available to paid subscribers only. Subscribe now or log in for access.