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Bayfield 36 review: classic marathon runner.
Certain styles never go away. There is always the lure of the pirate ships of old with their trailboards, bowsprits, and clipper bows. And at every sailor’s essence are certain pirate ideas, the romance of adventures on the high seas. The look speaks of journeys to far off lands for exciting adventures. That is what the Bayfield and now Gozzard Yachts stand for. In 1970, Ted and Hayden Gozzard started Bayfield Yachts in a yard in Bayfield, Ontario, Canada. Their first offering was a Bayfield 25. The company became synonymous with the classic, clipper bow look in Canada. They followed the Canadian innovations of C&C using balsa cored fiberglass. In 1981, Ted left the company to found his own builder, Gozzard Yachts. Hayden stayed on and in 1985 designed his first and only Bayfield, the 36. Ted continues to run Gozzard Yachts with his sons while the Bayfield factory burned down in 1988 halting production. These 36-footers have an excellent reputation in Canada, more well known than here in the USA. Her interior is arguably the largest you will find on a 36-foot sailboat. The roomy accommodations combined with her offshore sailing pedigree make her one of the best choices around in this range for a serious offshore yacht.
First Impressions Hayden stayed with Ted’s principles and look. The 36 is a fulled keeled, clipper bowed, trailboarded cruiser. From the dock, it’s interesting to compare and contrast her to the more modern 36 Gozzard that Ted has gone on to design. We have had the luck of selling both a Gozzard 36 and representing a Bayfield 36 within the last year. They have similar lines. The 36 Bayfield is really 41 feet LOA with her 5′ bowsprit as they use LOD as the model number for modesty. She is the definition of a big 36-footer. The heart shaped stern is lovely and the low freeboard sheer just enough. I can always pick out Bayfields and Gozzards by the molded cove stripe and inset name. The aluminum toerail jars with the overall classic look and lowers the maintenance threshold. The cabin trunk has 5 portholes and is traditionally low and squarish. Underneath, she has a long keel with a bronze heal and attached rudder. This design is the source of her performance skills and drawbacks. Newer Gozzards moved on to a modern cutaway forefoot and even separate rudder arrangements. The Bayfields still chose to keep the traditional underbody with the classic style. But a stout cutter has its advantages, especially in the trades.
Construction Bayfield like Gozzard today had a good reputation for building quality yachts with attention to detail. They built the 36 with standard roving mat layup and a balsa cored deck from the influence of C&C. There are plywood inserts for strength where deck gear attaches. The chainplates attach to either to the main bulkhead or to special stubs tabbed to the hull. The bulkheads are tabbed in. The ballast is a keel shaped lead insert secured by resin inside the fiberglass keel cavity. They did use a fiberglass liners with balsa core to reinforce tread areas. The hull deck joint is bulwark style fastened with 5200 and 5/16″ bolts and aircraft locking nuts on six inch centers. Cleats and stanchions fasten into the inner face of the bulwark. Chocks and cleats along the aluminum toerail are excellent for running lines. The fuel tank is aluminum. The holding and water are plastic with two for water.
On Deck Forward the chainlocker is a watertight bulkhead only accessible from deck. Bayfield 36’s did not have a windlasses originally. Owners used the chainlocker to store an anchor and probably tied the anchor off to the chock in the toerail near the bow. Most will have been upgraded to an electric windlass by now which is a safe and very worthwhile installation. The shrouds tie inboard on the outer deck edge with skinny sidedecks. The deck has molded non-skid that may be wearing thin 20 years on now. The quarterdeck steps up as you walk aft to enter the cockpit.
These are true cutters (meaning the mast is further aft than you will find on a sloop) with single spreader Isomat spars. While not commissioned with a traveler, that is an easy upgrade along the trunk cabin. A single backstay attaches neatly aft of the cockpit. The cockpit is brightened by her teak railing, lockers, and trim. A propane locker is portside of the helm. The starboardside cockpit lazarette opens for storage and underneath access to the quadrant. The steering was the ubiquitous Edson pedestal system. The helm is comfortable with a raised seat. The companionway has two louvered swing doors with a screen and inserts behind. The sill is about a foot and not bad for underway. The doors snap open, and you can insert a bottom hatch so no water goes below. The doors also snap closed to prevent rattling or unexpected opening. A keyhole in the starboard door locks the boat up.
Down Below You will not find a more accommodating interior on any 36-foot sailboat. She has 6’3″ headroom throughout with a tub shower, a feature not always found on even on 45-foot cruisers. In the saloon, the 36 Bayfield and Gozzard are much different. The Bayfield has a traditional berth forward and aft while the Gozzard has the saloon forward. There is a nice aft stateroom portside and the master stateroom forward with an offset double. The navigation station is across from the head and has a seat that folds under the Formica table. The woodwork is a symphony of light teak. Framing the salon are two half bulkheads. Paired with each partial bulkhead is an interesting carved column which doubles as a clever handle offshore.
You will notice she has a unique butterfly hatch above the saloon. This sunroof has two doors that swing up and lay open. The hatch opens up the interior in calm water, but make sure she stays closed in a foul blow. There are two hatches in the galley and another over the aft stateroom. Two hatches are forward over the master stateroom. Combined with 10 portholes in the cabintrunk, the Bayfield 36 is well ventilated and naturally lite. While storage area is plentiful, Bayfield could have done a better job of providing access to the storage. To access the storage easier, you might see new doors, enlarged existing ones, or removed drawers. In the galley, an owner pointed out you have to reach way down into the storage holes. He added side doors and levels to ease this difficulty. Underneath the starboard settee. He noted how he had to enlarge the access door. The door was cut out too deep back making it uncomfortable to reach in. He cut away another 2 inches from the paneling.
Engine A Yanmar 4 JHE 44-hp four-cylinder diesel is standard with access behind the companionway ladder and also a removable plate in the aft stateroom. For a mid to late 1980’s yacht, this Yanmar was a wonderful choice and is probably still in most of the yachts. Access could be better. The engine room is underneath the cockpit and not too accessible from the back and sides. The starboardside combing folds up for access but mostly to the steering behind the engine. Re-powering one would not be too hard with the large companionway and easy front and top access.
Underway The Bayfield 36 and her cousins will not win you any races. The 36 is a heavy cruiser meant to go offshore. Owners readily admit she is not the best in light winds. But when it gets to 12 knots she really gets going. This is not a fault but simply what she was meant to do like a marathon runner versus a greyhound. Sven Donaldson’s excellent review says, “While by no means an ocean grey-hound, this boat will surprise a few sailors with its legs. The key, of course, is plenty of sail area (870 square feet in the three working sails), sail area that really comes into its own on reaching courses.” Her sailing ability really will shine in a tough blow offshore with her cutter rig and a reefed main. The main is handled by two sheets instead of a traveler. While some owners like this arrangement, you might want to think about a traveler as an upgrade if not already installed.
Conclusion What a shame! While the economy was poor, a 1988 fire destroyed Bayfield Yachts factory. According to the owner Ernie, a Bayfield dealer, Neptune Marine, and some partners bought the molds and tried to keep going. After a couple years, they went under. Ernie says,” I have the last Bayfield 36 to hit the water, Stonecutter II. I saved it from the crusher by being the last person to have his hand up at the auction of Neptune Marine’s assets.” With some consolation, Gozzard Yachts continues the design lineage and the boat building tradition in Ontario. These Bayfield 36’s are great cruisers for the Bahamas, Caribbean, and afar. They won’t get you anywhere fast, but they sail dry and steady and hold strong in heavy weather. Typically, you’ll see them for around $100,000 on the used market.
References http://www.wind-borne.com/Bayfield%20Review.htm http://cruisingandlivingaboard.net/wiki/index.php/Bayfield_36
8 Replies to “Bayfield 36 Review: Classic Marathon Runner”
Can anyone advise me where to locate the propane bottle on a 36ft Bayfield. At present I have still the alcohol stove and would like to move to propane. DuncanMcKeeve SV Elnamea
How about in a cockpit locker?
Duncan, I am able to place a regular size (20lb.) BBQ tank in the port cockpit locker. And I carry a smaller 13 lb. for the BBQ grill on the stern rail. If you like, I could send you pics.
Thank you, yes I would love to see the pictures so perhaps I could copy your ideas.
best regards Duncan
Did you make the change, and did you have any problems with fitting a replacement stove? We’re in the market for a 36 right now, but don’t like the alcohol stove.
We have a Bayfield 36 with a propane stove. Our propane tank is in a special locker on the port side in the cockpit, vented overboard. It’s located in the alcove between the port seat and the captain’s seat, recessed into the moulded cockpit. But we ordered it during construction. Valerie. (Hey, Paul, our Bayfield 36 is going on the market! “Waegbora” . . . )
Hi Valerie: Can you let me have some details direct to my e-mail?
Paul [email protected]
I want to install a windless on my 36 any suggestion
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Bayfield 32
Also in used boat notebook.
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- Allied Princess 36
- Kelly-Peterson 46
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Bow and Stern
Adventures in a bayfield 29.
Bayfield 29 — An early review
I’ve had a few weeks with the new boat (Bayfield 29, la Princesa …until I change the name in a few weeks), and I’m getting a good feel for her.
Firstly, I don’t have any buyers remorse. At least not yet. I’m rather pleased with the design in general.
Under sail:
She sails remarkably well in light air. Not race boat fast; but certainly a lot better than I expected from a full keel, rather full body cutter. Under the asymmetrical spinnaker she would do three knots in around six knots indicated wind (masthead anemometer), and if I was willing to settle for two knots of speed (and I often am), I could probably keep her moving at that pace on most points of sail under working canvas in any but the lightest wind (perhaps I’m overstating the case; but given my experience so far I don’t think by much).
She is perfectly happy in heavyish weather provided she gets a reef in the main by around 20 knots wind or so. I’ve had her in the high twenties pushing thirty (apparent, indicated) under one reef and both head-sails (I’m not sure if they are the original sizes or not) and there was a fair amount of weather helm; but it wasn’t unmanageable or uncomfortable, although a second reef probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. I haven’t explored the full range of capability yet (I JUST bought the boat); but I’m willing to bet that with the second (fairly deep) reef, 40 knots of wind will be somewhat anti-climatic (although the wave action that goes along with 40 knots might not be pleasant…I’m not rushing to find out). I find her quite stiff (a benefit of that rotund body, I suspect), dry, and comfortable throughout the twenties with probably three to four foot Chesapeake waves.
Under Power:
No trouble handling under power in forward. She will turn within her own length to port (edit: I THINK to port…My recollection is suddenly challenging that direction). In reverse I now understand all the full keel complaints. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually; but I haven’t yet. I back into my slip; but I am using warping lines more than engine power at the moment. It’s a bit more work; but even single handed in a cross breeze I know I can get the boat in that way. I have watched some maestros under power, though, and I know it can be done with some more experience.
Cockpit and Deck:
The cockpit is deeper than I would like. It feels quite secure; but I need a huge cushion to sit high enough for good visibility (and I’m not a tiny man!). The seat coamings are practically vertical, the seat bottoms are too narrow, and the foot well area is so wide it is difficult to brace against the opposite seat. Happily, with the cushion I’m high enough I can see, and the boat is stiff enough that bracing isn’t as big a deal as it could be. But if each of the seats was a few inches wider, and the foot well was 6-8 inches narrower, and the back rest was angled a bit, the cockpit would be much more comfortable. Also I find it a little tricky to have one person at the tiller while another is tending the sheets as they both want to occupy the same space. This can be worked around, and with experimentation I am figuring it out; but some more thought here wouldn’t have been out of place. The cockpit also seems designed to hold a tremendous amount of water, with only two average size (1.5″ maybe? Less?) drains to let it all out. Hopefully if I’m ever out in conditions likely to flood the cockpit the cabin hatches are in, and the engine room hatch gasketing is more robust than it looks. Before serious contemplation of an offshore trip I’d have to think long and hard about putting in more cockpit drainage. As deep as the cockpit is, boat handling would be a challenge with more than a couple people in it.
While we are in the cockpit, I’d also like to say that I am not a big fan of having halyards run aft. Running the two head-sail halyards aft is pointless because I have roller furling (which is pretty nice, by the way). And the mains’l halyard is almost as pointless as the main seems to often get hung up on the lazyjacks going both up and down, which requires going to the mast to guide things along. While this is probably correctable either through a reconfiguration of the lazyjacks, or a change in technique on my part, what is not easily correctable is the reefing lines which are at the base of the boom. There is little point in trying to rig them to the cockpit as it is still necessary to be at the mast to get the reefing hook into the tack (although I suppose I could try and rig single line reefing…I’ll think about it). The outhaul and topping lift are also controlled at the mast. What the heck, they might as well have left the main halyard there too! I’ll think about it for the next year or so, I guess, and see if it bugs me enough to make changes. This is one of those things where the current setup appears ideal for the single hander, but I find it quite the opposite. It’s also a shame the boom wasn’t a few inches higher as this is a headache waiting to happen (a foot higher might permit standing headroom under the dodger and bimini)!
One other gripe, although this seems to also be common across most modern designs, is that one of the shroud chainplates on either side goes through the deck. The inner shrouds are attached to the house sides, and with that near vertical orientation they don’t seem to leak. The outer shrouds, though, poke a hole through the damn deck. Why? This is certainly NOT a racing boat, so a couple extra inches of sheeting angle won’t matter, especially since neither head sail extends aft of the mast. If Bayfield would have just moved the chainplates to the hull side I’m willing to bet that any water leakage, even with old caulking, would be minimal. As it is I’m going to need to caulk them up when I do my winter refit. The standing rigging will need to be replaced at some point, and I may consider moving those chain plates out at that time. I need to do research first, though, as there are likely to be unintended consequences.
The good news is the side decks are reasonably wide, the life lines are high enough to be safe, the foredeck feels secure, and the motion of the boat is quite comfortable.
Moving on to the interior we have what is, in many ways, a brilliant layout. By eliminating the v-berth (which typically in small boats becomes a catch all junk room) we not only get rid of the least comfortable berth aboard, we suddenly have room for a remarkably spacious head for a small boat. It is quite comfortable. Forward of the head is a hanging/storage locker, and further forward a huge anchor locker. There is even a funny little cushioned seat in the head, which I haven’t been able to find a point to; but it looks pretty cool even if I’m unlikely to ever sit on it. With the head further forward, we open up the main cabin. There is a centerline table with fold up leafs. On the starboard side is a berth that pulls out into a double, with a regular settee on the port side. Aft further is a half bulkhead that separates the galley (starboard) and chart table (decently sized to port). Partitions slide up from the half bulkhead to really separate the main cabin from what I’m calling the “working” (galley/navigation) cabin if the need for privacy and separation would arise (for instance, on a passage with sleeping crew). Aft of both the galley and chart table are a pair of quarter berths, port (a little too short) and starboard (plenty long). Four opening portlights plus the hatch in the head allow for decent ventilation. I’m 5’10” tall and I have standing headroom throughout, barely, although I have bumped my head a few times walking through the door to the head. Stowage is quite reasonable (I’m still experimenting on how best to utilize it). Water tankage is fine for a week or so (25 or 30 gallons I’m guessing); but could probably stand to be increased for any extended trips, especially considering the waste associated with a pressure water system (there is currently no system implemented for non-pressure water, although this is on my to-do list). The interior is teak, which some people like (me, for one), and others find gloomy. Build quality seems generally very decent.
Brilliant or not, I have a couple gripes about the interior as well. Well, I have one BIG gripe. Once again Ted Gozzard (or perhaps Bayfield yachts themselves) had an ergonomic brain fart. The settees, when in “couch” mode (that is, the seat backs are down), are too narrow, and it constantly feels like you are sitting on the edge of your seat. I guess this is OK for eating at the table; but not my cup of tea for just relaxing in the cabin. Raise the seat backs into bunk mode and they are as comfortable as any bunk I’ve personally been on. I have a few thoughts on how to make the settees more comfortable; but it will take a little experimentation. I’m going to try to avoid major surgery, or having to make new cushions ($$$); but I might not get away with that. Given that this boat will eventually be my home, though, the situation needs to be worked on a bit, and it deserves to have a few dollars thrown at it.
Ice melts fast in the ice-box. I think I’ll probably turn it into dry storage and pick up an Engle or something (I’ll snug it down into the starboard quarter berth or something, I guess).
Mechanicals:
The engine is a Yanmar 2GM, is about thirteen horsepower (although I can not get it up to max continuous RPM of 3400, meaning I’m not getting all the ponies), and seems to push the boat along just fine. When the wind and seas are calm I am just about getting to hull speed at maybe 2800 RPM (indicated). When the wind and waves are well up, I’ve been held back to as little as four knots over the ground (the knotmeter is not giving realistic numbers, so I’m defaulting to GPS…it should be correct within a quarter to maybe half knot or so, I think) at my max achievable RPM of three thousand. A few extra horsepower when the wind is blowing would not be unwelcome; but I think I’m getting an adequate amount. I think twenty horse power would have been a better choice; but not nearly better enough to consider spending the money to repower. I haven’t figured out fuel consumption, yet; but it is modest. The standard alternator is 35 amps. Given the horsepower, I’m not sure if it is reasonable to go much bigger which might put a practical limit on battery capacity.
Engine access is terrific, both through a hatch in the cockpit (although I wonder what would happen if the cockpit got flooded) and by removing the companionway steps, through the cabin. My only complaint is that the oil dipstick is in an awkward location which discourages checking it daily; but that is part of the discipline. I had a cooling problem a few days ago, so I pulled the water pump off to check the impeller and replace the belts. It was easy. I haven’t done any other maintenance on it yet; but outside of changing the oil (I think the old oil is sucked up through the dipstick port with a pump), most everything looks pretty easy to handle. Since there isn’t an hour meter on the motor and I don’t know when any scheduled preventative maintenance was last done, I’m planning on doing pretty much everything on the scheduled maintenance list to effectively reset the clock to zero before hauling in a few weeks for the winter. I may put in an hour meter at some point to help keep track, too.
I have a pair of Group 24 deep cycle batteries, in two banks. I’d like to at least double my amp capacity. It is not immediately obvious the best way to shoe-horn in more batteries, although I have a couple ideas. A tape measure will be my best friend for awhile. Given the smallish alternator, solar charging will be a good idea.
Boat options:
Air-conditioning! It is probably twenty years old and blows cool, but not cold air. I’m going to see if I can fix this up. As a soon to be live-aboard I believe I will replace this unit if I can’t get it working better (might just need a charge, or perhaps a good cleaning). It does get hot here in the Chesapeake!
Propane on demand hot water heater. It works, and generates scalding hot water. But it seems to take awhile to get going, and the water tanks are small enough that running the faucet while waiting for the hot water to show up seems like a terrible waste of fresh water. Taking a hot shower on a cool morning is pretty damn awesome, though! (Although there are pitfalls to showering aboard). I need to redo the propane lines (it’s a trust issue), so I may decide to get rid of the water heater. It will be kind of odd having a hot water faucet on each of the sinks without any hot water; but such is life. I can use my portable pump up sprayer for showers (it works well) by either solar heating the container or just boiling a pot of water.
Deck wash-down pump. The water around here is muddy. It’s very cool to be able to spray off the chain and deck after raising anchor. Very cool.
Propane stove. I guess the Bayfields came with Origo alcohol stoves; but my 29 has a Kenyon two burner propane job. I’m not a big foodie and I tend to cook simple meals, so this isn’t that big a deal to me. Gas is nice, though. Unfortunately, the stove is not gimballed (and it doesn’t have an oven, although that is of limited interest to me), and there is no easy way to install a permanent gimballed stove without doing major galley surgery and probably sacrificing the starboard quarter berth (which isn’t likely to get used much; but it might be important if it comes time to sell the boat down the road). I have a thought on how to inexpensively build a portable/removable gimballed stove sort of like the old Sea Cook stove, so when the time comes I’m sure I’ll be OK. There is currently a six pound propane tank hanging off the stern pulpit. Before doing any long distance cruising it might make sense to get another.
Conclusion:
While I have a few gripes, I find the boat meets my needs about as well, better really, as could be expected. There are always compromises; but in a sub-thirty foot live-aboard (take away the pulpit, it is probably closer to 27′) I don’t think I could ask for much more. I don’t know if many Bayfield 29s are out doing ocean crossings; but while the design might not be the best choice for a trip around the Horn, I don’t see any reason why she shouldn’t be perfectly capable and comfortable for seasonally appropriate passages providing some modest updating is done; although my experience in the matter is a bit limited.
She makes me smile when I look at her, and even though she looks a little tired at the moment, she gets a lot of compliments. She is thirty years old, and as is reasonably expected, her systems and cosmetics need some attention. Getting old sucks; but I don’t see any reason why “ la Princesa ” (I’m looking forward to the new name) can not be restored to full glory with a modest amount of elbow grease.
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4 thoughts on “ Bayfield 29 — An early review ”
I will add some photos to the review above in a day or two. They will help describe some of what I’m talking about.
Any futher comments on your Bayfield? I am considering it for single handing. 63 yo woman sailor here.
My review above pretty much stands, although I’m happy to answer any specific questions you have. I’m still early days in ownership, though.
Single handing, btw, is pretty easy. She’s a stable platform. Docking is a challenge, though. I’m hoping with practice it will get easier.
We have finished year 3 with our 1979 B-29. 6 opening ports, extended bowsprit, wheel steering, no cockpit engine hatch, etc. Docking does get easier- ours pulls hard starboard in reverse but we have a different model Yanmar.
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Bayfield 32 Reviews
| Long Keel | Cutter | ||||
| 32.00′ / 9.75m | 23.25′ / 7.09m | ||||
| 10.50′ / 3.20m | 432 ft / 40.13 m | ||||
| 3.75′ / 1.14m | |||||
| 9600 lbs./ 4355 kgs. | 4000 lbs. / 1814 kgs. | ||||
| 15.35 | 41.65% | 341.00 | |||
| Ted Gozzard | |||||
| Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN) | |||||
| FG | |||||
| 1973 | |||||
| Yanmar | |||||
| Diesel | 21 | ||||
| 35.00′ / 10.67m | 14.00′ / 4.27m | ||||
| 30.00′ / 9.14m | 12.50′ / 3.81m | ||||
| 245.00 ft / 22.76 m | 187.50 ft / 17.42 m | ||||
| 432.50 ft / 40.18 m | 341.00 | ||||
| 15.37 | 37.70′ / 11.49m | ||||
Bayfield 32
By Jack Hornor
Revised by BoatUS editors in October 2012
The model was introduced in 1973 as the “Bayfield 30” but pressure from sales and marketing folks soon forced a name change to the Bayfield 32 which considers the vessel’s overall length, including the clipper bow and bow pulpit rather than her actual “on deck” length. In fact, the waterline length of 23′ 3″ is more typical of a 28-footer. The beam is quite wide at 10′ 6″ and draft is a minimal 3′ 9″
The Bayfield 32 has considerable freeboard and a high trunk cabin which have been cleverly disguised by her designer Ted Gozzard. Gozzard sold his interest in Bayfield in 1981 to start Gozzard Yachts. His distinctive clipper bow, wood trail boards and scroll work can still be seen on his current designs.
READ REVIEW : http://www.boatus.com/boatreviews/sail/Bayfield32.asp
Believe it or not, there was a time when sailboat production flourished all across our wide continent. And when we think of geographic areas where sailboat builders congregated and even prospered, several locales spring to mind. New England was home to notable early fiberglass builders including Pearson, Hinckley, O’Day, Bristol and others. Southern California was a hotbed of building in the 1960s and 1970s with Columbia, Cal, Westsail, Ericson and of course Catalina, turning out record numbers of boats. The west coast of Florida emerged as a boatbuilding center in the 1970s and 1980s with companies like Morgan, Irwin, Gulfstar, Endeavour, Island Packet and others setting up shop. However, one area that is rarely mentioned may have been the most enduring of all: Ontario. From the 1960s through the 1980s, and in a few rare cases beyond, this boating-crazed Canadian province was home to many top builders. Along the southeast shore of Lake Huron, Ontario builder Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. began producing a salty full-keeled 23-foot sloop in 1970. Designed by Ted Gozzard, it evolved into the Bayfield 25 and became something of a cult boat.
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Review of Bayfield 25
Basic specs..
The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.
The boat is equipped with 45.0 liter fresh water capacity.
The boat equipped with a masthead rig. The advantage of a masthead rig is its simplicity and the fact that a given sail area - compared with a fractional rig - can be carried lower and thus with less heeling moment.
The Bayfield 25 is equipped with a long keel. A full keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.
The keel is made of lead. Compared with iron, lead has the advantage of being 44% heavier, which allows a smaller keel and hence less water resistance and higher speed.
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 0.89 - 0.99 meter (2.92 - 3.22 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
Bayfield 25 is typically equipped with a Petter diesel engine.
The fuel tank has a capacity of 45.0 liters (11 US gallons, 9 imperial gallons).
Sailing characteristics
This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.
What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?
The capsize screening value for Bayfield 25 is 2.11, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.
What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?
The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.9 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Bayfield 25 is about 98 kg/cm, alternatively 549 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 98 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 549 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Sailing statistics
This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.
What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?
What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?
What is a Ballast Ratio?
What is Displacement Length Ratio?
What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?
Maintenance
When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 10m 2 (107 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.
Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale
If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.
| Usage | Length | Diameter | ||
| Mainsail halyard | 20.2 m | (66.1 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Jib/genoa halyard | 20.2 m | (66.1 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Spinnaker halyard | 20.2 m | (66.1 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Jib sheet | 7.6 m | (25.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Genoa sheet | 7.6 m | (25.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Mainsheet | 19.1 m | (62.5 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Spinnaker sheet | 16.8 m | (55.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Cunningham | 3.0 m | (10.0 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Kickingstrap | 6.1 m | (20.0 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Clew-outhaul | 6.1 m | (20.0 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.
Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.
We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Bayfield 25 it would be a great help.
If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.
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IMAGES
COMMENTS
I've got a nice little Bayfield 25 and im wondering how seaworthy the boat is. ... to the other boats on my short list, all within 2' of waterline length, the Bayfield is the second fastest boat. The boats I'm comparing it to are a Tanzer 22, a Catalina 22, a CS22 and a Sirius 21. ... General Sailing Discussions Gear & Maintenance Boat Review ...
In the early 1970s, most boat builders were developing fin-keeled racer/cruiser lines of production sailboats. Bayfield Boat Yard, in south-eastern Lake Huron, bucked this trend by producing a line of long-keeled cruising boats. ... Boat Reviews. Perry Design Review: Bristol 33.3. Bob Perry. September 26, 2000. Boat Reviews. Jeanneau Sun ...
Bayfield 36 Sailboat. Construction Bayfield like Gozzard today had a good reputation for building quality yachts with attention to detail. They built the 36 with standard roving mat layup and a balsa cored deck from the influence of C&C. ... 8 Replies to "Bayfield 36 Review: Classic Marathon Runner" Duncan McKeeve says: February 13, 2011 at ...
Conclusion The Bayfield 32 is another example of why there's no excuse not to get out on the water. This sturdy, handsome, quality cruiser is an ideal family boat that will provide drama-free sailing for years to come. LOA 32' LWL 23'3" Beam 10'6" Draft 3'9" Displacement 9,600 lbs. Sail Area 525 sq. ft. This scion of the Great Lakes is an ideal ...
The design of the Bayfield 29, as well as documentation from Bayfield, indicates a displacement of 7,100 pounds. However, we have seen that Bayfield's president at the time was quoted as saying the boat is actually built heavier and stronger than called for, placing its actual displacement around 8,500 lbs / 3856 kg. Photo courtesy […]
The Bayfield 32 is a pure cruising boat, one that has held up well over the years. Originally published in Canadian Yachting's December 1992 issue. Specifications. LOA 32 ft. LWL 23 ft. 3in. BEAM 10 ft. 6in. Draft 3 ft. 9 in. Displacement 9600 lbs. Sail Area 662 sq ft sq. ft.
The bow sections are fairly full, and the beam compares with those of some larger performance-oriented yachts. The design of the Bayfield 29 specifies a displacement of 7,100 pounds. Bayfield's president, Jake Rogerson, notes that the boat is actually built heavier and stronger than called for, which places its actual displacement around ...
Bayfield 29 — An early review. I've had a few weeks with the new boat (Bayfield 29, la Princesa …until I change the name in a few weeks), and I'm getting a good feel for her. Firstly, I don't have any buyers remorse. At least not yet. I'm rather pleased with the design in general.
The Bayfield 32, with her cutter rig, long keel, attached rudder and shallow draft, is a classic example of the ideal cruising sailboat. The model was introduced in 1973 as the "Bayfield 30" but pressure from sales and marketing folks soon forced a name change to the Bayfield 32 which considers the vessel's overall length, including the ...
Boat Review Forum. SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, ... Just a quick yahoo search turned up 3 reviews of the Bayfield 32 including one by Jack Horner, as well as a link to a Bayfield 32 refit by the fellow at Atom Voyages. ...
The Bayfield 25 is equipped with a long keel. A full keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space. The keel is made of lead. Compared with iron, lead has the advantage of being 44% ...
The DL-ratio for Bayfield 29 is 307 which categorizes this boat among 'medium weight cruisers'. Heavy Light 27% 0 50 100. 27% of all similar sailboat designs are categorized as heavier. A heavy displacement combined with smaller water plane area has lower acceleration and is more comfortable.
Good boat for the gulf islands. We sailed down from Lake Ontario to the Bahamas in a1979 Bayfield 25. I just sold a Bayfield 32c which we kept at Point Roberts for 4 years and now have Wind Borne III (Bayfield 36) in St. Maarten. The nice thing about the Bayfield 25 is you can take it home and save money on moorage. As you can see, I am a little biased towards the Bayfields but do not believe ...
Bayfield 29 is a 29′ 0″ / 8.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Ted Gozzard and built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. between 1980 and 1983.
The Bayfield should meet all of the requirements that you have outlined. The Bayfield 29 should be a safe, dependable, cruising boat, that is fairly forgiving for a novice. That said, if you are new to the sport and really want to learn to sail well, (and learning to sail well is not important to everyone),you might do better buying a boat that ...
Bayfield Boat Yard was founded by Hayden Gozzard in 1970. He started by building small sailboats and gradually expanded to larger models. He hired his brother Ted Gozzard as the chief designer in 1973. The company produced several popular designs, such as the Bayfield 25, 29, 32, and 36, before launching the Bayfield 40 in 1984. ...
Bayfield 36/40 is a 41′ 2″ / 12.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Hayden Gozzard and built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. between 1985 and 1988. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. ... » Bayfield 36 Review, Richard Jordan, Waves » Contemporary Classic, Sven Donaldson, Boat Review. Suggest Improvements Source ...
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of BAYFIELD 25. Built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN) and designed by Ted Gozzard, the boat was first built in 1975. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 7.62. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.70.
Bayfield is a yacht builder that currently has 15 yachts for sale on YachtWorld, including 1 new vessels and 14 used yachts, listed by experienced boat and yacht brokers mainly in the following countries: Canada, United States and Mexico. YachtWorld offers a diverse array of models, showcasing a comprehensive span of sizes and lengths ...
Info. on Bayfield 40. Looking for info on the Bayfield 40 designed by Ted Gozzard as a possible live-aboard, ocean sailboat. Slow and gimicky character boats. They have always struck me as being more about looking the part than sailing the part. This may be a product of my tastes which run toward modern designs and genuine traditional watercraft.
Don't miss your opportunity to purchase this boat as she is one of the most rugged and sturdy sailing vessels available on the Pacific Northwest! Great value… dollar-for-dollar Lady Margaret III is the best boat on the market for an individual or couple wanting a sturdy and capable turn-key offshore sailboat loaded with tons of brand-new gear.
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5