laser sailboat hull separation

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Hull delamination on a Laser.

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by kroberts , Jul 19, 2010 .

kroberts Senior Member

Hi, Got a friend with a Laser sailboat. We were using it today on Lake Michigan and when putting it back we discovered that the upper hull and lower hull are separating. It's most obvious right around the front, but I noticed that the sides show evidence of some sort of caulk and under that it's also delaminated. I'm guessing maybe half the perimiter is not quite attached. Looks like the same latex stuff used in bathrooms to seal around the tub. The boat seems to take on a bit of water, but I think it's not too heavy after you drain it. It's upside down on a rack at a harbor now, so I guess I'm wondering what needs to happen in order to fix it. My inclination would be to scrape out the seams between the two layers for an inch or so, maybe with a dremel or even a hand tool, and then fill again with epoxy and some fumed silica or maybe some West System 404, mixed to pancake batter or maybe a little runnier. Then clamp it and leave it for a week. I guess the thing I need to know is whether I really need to take the hull apart and clean anything out in there. Or maybe replace foam or whatever. Or do I just epoxy the seams and leave it alone? While I'm thinking of it, what do I do to recondition the hull? The fiberglass seems to be a bit faded on the bottom and there are definite scratches. And the corners are all banged up too, might as well fix that too while I'm at it. Looking for recommendations. Thanks. Thanks.  

After doing some research, I discovered that "delamination" is not quite the word I should have used. The hull is separating from the deck. I now realize that I probably shouldn't use epoxy to bond them together again, but rather some sort of putty or removable adhesive. I have no idea what though, and still don't know if I should try to remove it all and separate the parts or just try to squeeze more adhesive in there.  

Jeremy Harris Senior Member

IIRC the hull and deck on Lasers are bonded together using a flexible polyurethane adhesive, probably Sikaflex. My guess is that to effect a good repair you'll need to try and completely separate the hull and deck, clean up the mating faces and re-bond. It might be worth getting a definitive statement from the manufacturer on the type of bonding material used, as it may possibly be polysulphide based, rather than polyurethane based. It almost certainly won't be silicone or acrylic based, as most domestic caulking materials are, as these have pretty poor mechanical properties when compared to polyurethane or polysulphide based adhesives. There are alternatives to Sikaflex that are a little cheaper and seem to work as well. I've used polyurethane automotive body panel adhesive in place of Sikaflex and found it to be near identical in performance. Jeremy  

Jeremy, Is this something I need to take it to the garage for or can it be done in a couple hours on the rack at the marina? I guess that if I need to contact the manufacturer I can probably get that info from them, but I would rather also have some sort of experienced real human give an opinion. Thinking about it, I may be able to use a hook knife rather than a dremel for what's left of the adhesive. Just guessing. Another option I might need to consider is a temporary fix for the summer, and then fix it once it's back in the garage. If it was my boat I'd haul it back and fix it right away, but it's not and the owner doesn't always take my advice.  

I've just done a bit of digging around for you. The hull deck joint would have originally been bonded with 3M 5200 polyurethane adhesive. Some people have done repairs using epoxy resin filled with a suitable filler (like colloidal silica) but if it were me I'd stick with using polyurethane. It seems that separating the hull and deck is a big job, as it means breaking the bond at the centreboard case and mast step, so the most expeditious way to effect a good repair might be to just scrape out as much of the old adhesive as you can, make sure the boat is dry internally and then go around the seam a small bit at a time, squirting in adhesive with a gun (the stuff comes in tubes that fit a caulking gun). It'll be a messy job, but should be straightforward enough. Apparently it's very common for Lasers to come unbonded at the hull deck joint after a fair bit of use. Jeremy  

Jeremy, I just got done searching the Laser Forum and came to pretty much the same conclusion. Mostly that separating the hull from the deck is a Really Bad Idea since it's not my boat, and since it's on a rack at the marina. Supposedly there's an inspection port somewhere, but I have no idea where. This is NOT a pre-production boat since it has a serial number, so presumably I won't have that foam problem. It all seemed to drain out fairly quickly, so I don't think there is any compromised material in there. I had been thinking of fumed silica since I have about a cubic foot of it, but I think I'll stick with 5200. I wonder if I should use masking tape to protect the area I don't want the adhesive on? Or is that a waste of time? And is one tube of the stuff enough, or do I need several? Can I get this stuff at any marine supply shop or do I need to order it? I guess I should try a search engine, huh? My dremel has a cord, so I don't know if I can use that. I can definitely get some hook knives and various other digging tools though. And I wonder if I can use some sort of hypodermic style injector to get the adhesive into the crack more easily? And I wonder if I should chip a bit, then glue, then chip a bit -- or if I should chip it all out and glue all at once? Thanks for your help.  

Also, can I expect to successfully do this on a boat rack? It's basically on 2 pieces of square tube, front and back, a couple feet from each end. Typical storage for small sailboats at a marina I think. My worry is that the removed adhesive will allow the boat to flex, and then when it's glued it will stay in the wrong shape. It's a PITA to get it to a garage, considering the logistics of things in Chicago. Thanks.  

If you do a short length at a time I think you will probably be OK doing it on the rack. The nozzle on the tube of adhesive should be thin enough to fit into the joint to squirt the stuff in. Masking off areas around where you're working would be a good idea - this stuff is very, very sticky and is a bit of a pain to work with. I've found that polyurethane adhesives can be wiped off reasonably well using alcohol. I've used propyl alcohol with success for cleaning the stuff up, but probably any alcohol would work and shouldn't damage the hull. Jeremy  

wdbeyer Junior Member

Ken, most Home Depots carry 5200 for a lot less than you"d pay at a marine supply store. After cleaning out the old stuff and getting the new into the seam, maybe use a spanish harness or two to clamp the hull tight to the deck. Just a thought. Good luck.  

Jeremy, OK I will do that. But do you mean do a short length, let it cure completely and then do the next short length? If so it'll be quite awhile to get the boat done. How about do a foot, leave a foot, do another foot and so on, all the way around, and then finish up next week? And FWIW the whole front of the boat seems to be disconnected, so I suspect it won't hurt much to hit that all at once. Or am I wrong? wdbeyer, I already found the links to Home Depot. I also saw one that claimed Wal-mart's marine area had it for cheaper yet. Will check both, there are both within a couple minutes of my house. I have no idea what a Spanish harness is. Google only gets me Spanish-English translation for pages. I have some clamps though. Thanks.  

Ken, its a knot used with a loop and a wooden rod, used by some sttich and glue boat builders to clamp the sides together. I can't find an example rite now to point you to. I suppose you could use some ratchet straps, or clamps if you can get them to hold. I'd do the whole seam if you have the means to clamp everything together and leave for the time it takes the 5200 to cure.  

tom28571 Senior Member

Haven't read the whole thread but it is not necessary nor realistically practical to separate the hull from the deck since the mast socket and cockpit is also glued to the hull bottom. This is a common problem with Lasers and other boats of the same construction. Turn the boat over on saw horses and work your way around the joint. Pry the separated areas a bit further open with screwdrivers and force in some sealant/adhesive into the space. Just let the joint close up on its own accord with no clamps. Done this on several Lasers with success. Any good waterproof sealant/adhesive will work. Of course, dry out the joint first.  

wdbeyer, Search as I might I can't find a spanish harness knot. Love to hear about it. Tom, I guess there are the following questions left: 1. How dry is dry? This thing is stored upside down in an outdoor fenced off area on a rack. Rain and dew and all that, probably. But the days have been hot, and chances are we wouldn't get there before noon. So a half day of drying, would that be out of line? 2. I can bring a dremel and an extension cord, but I don't know if there's power there that we can use. Is there some sort of hand tool that can scrape that old adhesive out the best? A hook knife or linoleum knife or something similar? 3. How many tubes of 5200 do we need to do this, considering neither of us have done anything like it at all? I guess that's all. Thanks.  

If this Laser is typical, there is no problem with strength as there is probably still a majority of the deck/hull lap joint intact and only a small portion of the joint that has delaminated. I would not use 5200 although it would be OK. I like "Boatlife", 101 or PL Window And Door sealant for jobs like this. Never had a Laser where one 11oz tube was not sufficient. If you pry open the bad areas and leave them open so that they can dry for a few hours in the sun, that should be OK. After The major leaks are taken care of, I like to use a vacuum cleaner on pressure to slightly pressurize the hull and look for more leaks with soapy water. Don't overdo the pressure as it is easy to distort the hull.  

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So I don't need to dig out the old adhesive or re-do the entire joint all the way around? I've done a lot of vacuum clamping of 12 to 20 foot hovercraft hulls using a shop vac, so I am fairly familiar with the risks of too much pressure. Thanks though.  

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Separate Deck and Hull

• Thread starter bornfrustrated
• Start date Aug 16, 2019
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Day Sailers

bornfrustrated

Hi all, First time on the forum and I'm looking for a little information if anyone has any input. I'm working on separating the hull and deck on my daysailer. Pretty sure it's a MFG Whistler, but hard to tell as it was "rescued" from the junkyard. Water ends up in between the two when I go out for a few hours and it usually drains a couple gallons afterwards. I'd like to separate the two and do any repair to the hull that it needs. The rub rail and rivets were drilled out and I have most of it separated around the outside. I can separate the two about an inch, but I still get a lot of resistance from the inside. What's the best way to get them apart? Probably a stretch to ask, but is anyone familiar with this the inside of this that could shed a little light? Thanks.  

kappykaplan

Got any photos to help us help you?  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Welcome @bornfrustrated Look at image #5. The yellow stuff looks like insulation. It is more likely some form of adhesive that is used to tab along the joint to keep the two pieces together. In most manufacturing the builders build the deck and hull separately. Then they lay up a glue or adhesive caulk on the hull, place the deck on top and then screw, rivet, or bolt the two in place. When the adhesive has cured the bolts are left but they become less important as the adhesive is the real bond. Our boats then are put under all sorts of stress from the water and the rigging. The manufactures put tabs and bulk heads in between the deck and the hull to strengthen the stress points and relieve the pressure on the deck joint. The yellow stuff looks like a glued tab. This may be hanging up your separation of the deck from the hull. Your going to need to go in between the deck and hull and free any tabbing or bonding you find. Most likely on a boat that size where the stays are going to attach, the center board, the transom. It could be just about anywhere. These small boats were designed then models were constructed, and the builder put the boat in the water. By trial and error they found places that cracked or broke or leaked and changed their build procedure to address the needed change. Often the first boat is pretty banged up and does not resemble the boats that were built say. , 50 to 100 boats later. Good luck.  

What would be the best way to move forward?  

I had to do a lot of internal work on my Laser and was faced with the same problem. I put 4 inch access ports strategical in the deck for access and did the rest from the outside. You can get fabric bags that fit into the ports to use for storage that work well. I'm suprised you were able to get the two apart that far.  

MikeHoncho said: I'm suprised you were able to get the two apart that far. Click to expand

Hi all, thanks for the input. I know there's probably going to be varied information, but is there a way to help break down the adhesive? It's pretty tight and I wouldn't be able to get a hand let alone any cutting tools inside to remove it. Something I could fill the inside with and let soak to break down the bond?  

• Cured 3M™ 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives. U.S. Patent No. 5,856,285

Marine Formula™

I'd try carb cleaner or break cleaner to see if it will dissolve bond  

I'll definitely look into the marine formula. Straight carb/brake cleaner?  

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Laser Sailboat: Mastering Performance and Techniques for Success

The Laser sailboat is a popular single-handed, one-design sailing dinghy known for its simplicity and performance. Designed by Ian Bruce and Bruce Kirby in 1970, the Laser has become the world's most popular adult and youth sailboat, with over 225,000 boats in 140 countries.

The boat's versatility is a significant contributing factor to its popularity, as it can be customized for different sailors and conditions using three interchangeable rigs of different sail areas.

Laser sailboats offer both beginners and experienced sailors the joy of sailing with their user-friendly design and competitive performance capabilities .

With a strong focus on sustainability, LaserPerformance, the leading producer of Laser sailboats, actively works to minimize the environmental impact of their products through ethical sourcing and manufacturing practices.

Key Takeaways

• Laser sailboats are known for versatility, simplicity, and high-performance capabilities.
• Designed in 1970, they have become the world's most popular sailboat for both adult and youth sailors.
• LaserPerformance is committed to sustainability through ethical sourcing and manufacturing practices.

History and Development

Inception of the Laser Sailboat

The Laser sailboat, an internationally popular one-design class, was conceived in 1969 by Bruce Kirby , a Canadian designer and former Olympian. He aimed to create an innovative design that was simple, affordable, and easy to sail.

The prototype, originally called the "Weekender," was first introduced to the public in 1971 at the New York Boat Show . Its inaugural sail featured the insignia "TGIF," a reference to its early name.

The boat's simplicity and performance attracted sailors of all skill levels, and by the early 1970s, it had become a commercial success.

Laser Class Evolution

The International Laser Class Association (ILCA) was established in response to the growing popularity of this sailboat. The ILCA sought to standardize the Laser's various specifications and ensure consistency across all boats.

One of its key contributions has been the establishment of three interchangeable rigs: Standard, Radial, and 4.7 , which cater to different wind strengths and crew weights.

This adaptability has made the Laser more accessible and appealing to a broader range of sailors.

The Laser's rise as an international class was further solidified when it became an Olympic class in 1996. The boat's simplicity, strict one-design nature, and large worldwide fleet have made it a staple of the Olympic sailing program.

Its design has remained relatively unchanged since its inception, with only minor modifications being made to improve performance and durability .

The Laser remains a popular choice for sailors globally, both competitive and recreational. Its unique combination of simplicity, adaptability, and performance has ensured its continued success as a one-design class, and the International Laser Class Association continues to play a crucial role in maintaining the consistency of the boat and promoting the sport of sailing around the world.

Laser Sailboat Specifications

Hull Design and Construction

The Laser sailboat is known for its simplicity and performance which was designed in 1970 by Ian Bruce and Bruce Kirby. The hull design contributes to its stability and speed in the water.

Its construction uses a lightweight hull, ensuring optimal handling for sailors of various skill levels. This sailboat has been designed with durability and stability in mind.

Its materials and construction techniques focus on withstanding the rigors of sailing while maintaining a consistent and smooth ride on the water.

Rigging Variants

There are three interchangeable rigging variants for the Laser sailboat, each offering different sail areas to accommodate sailor weight and wind strength. These variants include:

• Laser 4.7 : With a sail area of 4.7 square meters, this rig is suitable for youth and lighter female sailors. It is considered the smallest and most accessible rig for Laser sailing. More information about Laser 4.7.
• Laser Radial : This rig offers a 5.1 square meter sail area, suited for women and lighter sailors seeking a more challenging sail size. Learn about Laser Radial.
• Laser Standard (ILCA 7) : The most common and originally designed rig using a 7.1 square meter sail, also known as MK2 , features a larger sail area suitable for heavier and more athletic sailors. Details on Laser Standard sail and rig.

Dimensions and Sail Measurements

The Laser sailboat has specific dimensions and sail measurements which contribute to its design and performance. Here are the key dimensions:

• LOA (Length Overall): 4.2 meters
• LWL (Length at Waterline): 3.81 meters
• Beam : 1.39 meters
• Draft : 0.787 meters
• Weight : Standard 58.97 kg (130 lbs)

The sail measurements for the three different rigging variants are as follows:

These specifications ensure consistent performance and ease of handling for sailors in various conditions and preferences.

Sailing Dynamics and Performance

Handling and Maneuverability

The Laser sailboat is known for its excellent handling and maneuverability, making it suitable for sailors of all skill levels.

Its simplified rigging and straightforward design allow for easy control and quick response to changes in wind and water conditions.

The Laser's hull weight is only 120 pounds (54.43 kg), contributing to its nimbleness on the water.

Steering the Laser sailboat is mostly dependent on the sailor's body positioning and sail trimming techniques, giving more room for tactical excellence. Due to its responsive nature, the Laser rewards sailors who can make quick adjustments and maintain an optimal sail trim.

Speed and Stability

The Laser sailboat offers a good balance of speed and stability for both recreational and competitive sailing.

Its relatively simple design, combined with a large sail area of 75 square feet (6.97 square meters) , enables it to reach impressive speeds for its size while maintaining stability.

Key factors affecting the Laser's speed and stability include:

• Hull design: The Laser's hull is designed to reduce drag and enhance stability, providing a fast and steady sailing experience.
• Sail size and shape: The Laser's sail is optimized for various wind conditions, allowing it to perform well in both light and strong winds.
• Sailor's weight and athleticism: The speed and stability of a Laser sailboat are also influenced by the sailor's weight and athleticism. An optimal weight range for Laser sailors is 140 to 190 pounds (64 to 86 kg) , and experienced, athletic sailors can better handle the boat in challenging conditions.

Sailor Interaction

A significant aspect of the Laser sailboat's performance is the level of interaction between the sailor and the boat.

As mentioned earlier, the Laser rewards sailors who possess excellent steering and trimming techniques, as well as a strong sense of tactical awareness.

This interaction allows the Laser to perform at its best under various conditions.

Sailors can further optimize their Laser sailboat's performance by:

• Adjusting the sail's angle and position to match wind conditions
• Proper body positioning and weight distribution
• Adopting efficient upwind and downwind sailing techniques
• Maintaining focus and awareness of wind shifts and changes in water conditions

Types of Laser Sailboats

Laser sailboats are a type of one-design dinghies, which means that they follow strict design and manufacturing rules to ensure all boats in the Laser class are identical.

The versatile laser class is widely popular as they offer different sail and rig sizes, catering to sailors of various ages, weights, and skill levels.

Laser Standard

The Laser Standard , also known as the ILCA 7 , is the largest of the three laser rigs. This adult racing class boat features a 7.1 sqm sail, making it suitable for heavier and more athletic sailors.

Laser Radial

The Laser Radial or ILCA 6 has a smaller 5.1 sqm sail. It is specifically tailored to lighter sailors, including women and youth sailors. The Radial's sail allows for better control and easier handling in various wind conditions.

This provides a level playing field for a wide range of sailors in terms of age, weight, and experience level.

Lastly, the Laser 4.7 or ILCA 4 features the smallest sail, measuring 4.7 sqm. This rig is designed for young sailors who are new to Laser sailing and need a more manageable sail size. The unique 4.7 lower mast section includes a pre-bend near the boom fitting, which allows the sail to depower more easily.

This provides a more forgiving experience for new and younger sailors.

Each Laser sailboat variant utilizes the same hull design, ensuring that the core sailing experience remains consistent across the board. This enables sailors to transition seamlessly between the different rig sizes as they progress in their sailing abilities.

Competitive Sailing

Racing and Regattas

The Laser sailboat has been a popular choice in the sailing community for competitive racing due to its simplicity and one-design class. The Laser Class Association organizes races and regattas in various formats where sailors adhere to the class rules.

The laser class has three different sail sizes - Laser Standard (ILCA 7), Laser Radial (ILCA 6), and Laser 4.7 (ILCA 4). These cater to sailors of different ages, weights, and abilities to participate in a single class.

These characteristics make the Laser sailboat a widely sought-after option for sailors who are interested in competitive racing 1 .

Olympic Presence

The laser class has a strong presence in the Olympics, being recognized as an Olympic class sailing dinghy. Laser Standard (ILCA 7) and Laser Radial (ILCA 6) are the two divisions that have been part of the Olympic Games since 1996 and 2008, respectively.

With its universal appeal and the level playing field it offers to sailors, the laser class has grown significantly in popularity over the years. It has achieved global recognition as a highly competitive sailing class in the Olympic Games.

National and International Championships

Alongside racing, regattas and their Olympic presence, the Laser Class Association also organizes various national and international championships.

Among these events are the ILCA 4 Youth World Championship, scheduled to happen in Viana do Castelo, Portugal, in June 2024 2 .

The World Championships typically attract top sailors from different nations, competing for the title of world champion.

A list of major championships for laser sailing includes:

• ILCA 4 Youth World Championship
• ILCA 6 World Championship
• ILCA 7 World Championship

In addition to these flagship events, many national championships are also held regularly by various Laser Class Associations around the world. This fosters the growth of talented sailors and promotes the spirit of competition within the laser sailing community.

Maintenance and Upkeep

Routine Care and Maintenance

Laser sailboats are known for their durability, but regular maintenance is essential to ensure their longevity and maintain resale value.

Inspect the hull and foils for any damage or signs of wear. Also, check the steering systems, such as rudder and tiller, ensuring they are functioning smoothly without any wiggles.

Regularly inspect tiller extension fittings for cracking and signs of potential breakage.

Cleaning your sailboat after each use will help minimize the chance of damage from dirt, salt, and debris. Store sails, lines, and other equipment properly to avoid moisture damage, mold, and mildew growth.

Verifying the functionality of the autobailer should also be a part of the routine maintenance process.

Transport and Storage

Transporting a Laser sailboat can be done with relative ease, as they are lightweight and their compact size allows for cartop transport.

When cartopping your Laser, use appropriate padding and straps to secure the boat without causing damage to the hull, mast, or other components.

As for storage, it is essential to keep your Laser sailboat in a covered and well-ventilated area, preferably on a dolly or custom cradle that supports the gunwales to prevent unnecessary stress on the hull.

Moreover, ensure the mast and other equipment are safely stored alongside the boat.

Periodically inspect the boat during storage to check for any signs of damage, moisture buildup, or rodent infestation.

Laser Sailboat Community and Culture

The Laser sailboat has built a strong sense of community that extends across different countries. This community primarily revolves around clubs, associations, and social and recreational sailing.

Clubs and Associations

A significant part of the Laser sailing community is the involvement in clubs and associations at various levels. The International Laser Class Association (ILCA) is the governing body that brings together Laser sailors from all around the world.

This association is responsible for maintaining the one-design principles, organizing international events, and promoting Laser sailing as a high-quality, competitive sport.

At a local level, numerous clubs are home to passionate Laser sailors. Club racing is a popular form of competition within the community, offering a friendly yet competitive environment for sailors to test their skills.

There are also regional associations supporting the growth of the Laser sailing community in their respective areas.

Example of Laser clubs:

• Family Fun Sailing Club : Focused on promoting sailing for the whole family and organizing social events.
• Weekender Club : Emphasizes weekend gatherings and collaborative sailing initiatives.
• TGIF Racing Club : Prioritizes Friday evening club races for those looking to engage in competitive sailing after work.

Social and Recreational Sailing

The Laser sailboat's appeal extends beyond competitive racing, with many enthusiasts enjoying the boat for its simplicity and versatility in social and recreational sailing.

The Laser community is known for organizing events that cater to various interests and skill levels, ensuring that everyone has a chance to find their niche.

Some common social and recreational sailing events include:

• Casual group sails : Informal gatherings where sailors can share tips, learn from one another, and enjoy sailing in a relaxed and social environment.
• Adventure sails : Excursions to explore new sailing locations or participate in long-distance trips.
• Family fun days : Sailing events focusing on family-oriented activities, making the sport accessible and enjoyable for all ages.

Frequently Asked Questions

What factors determine the price of a Laser sailboat?

When looking for a Laser sailboat, various factors such as brand, condition, materials used, size, and additional features all play a role in determining the price .

A brand-new Laser will typically cost more than its used counterpart. Higher quality materials and improved technology can also increase the price, as well as customizable options and additional accessories.

To find the right Laser sailboat at a competitive price , it's essential to compare offerings from various vendors and take time to evaluate factors like reputation and warranty. Sailing Chandlery provides more information on Laser sailboats and their prices.

What are the essential specifications to look for in a Laser sailboat?

When considering a Laser sailboat, pay attention to details like hull weight , rig size, sail size, and weight capacity , as these will affect the boat's performance and suitability for the intended use.

A standard Laser sailboat generally has a hull weight of 125 lbs or 56.7 kg , with different sail sizes available, such as ILCA 4 (Laser 4.7), ILCA 6 (Laser Radial), and ILCA 7 (Laser Standard).

Each sail size is designed for sailors within specific weight ranges, providing the best performance and stability.

How can I find a reputable vendor for Laser sailboat kits?

To find a reputable vendor for Laser sailboat kits, research different suppliers, seek recommendations from fellow sailors, and read reviews from previous customers.

Online platforms like West Coast Sailing offer resources and information on Laser sailboats, including detailed guides, FAQs, and where to find quality suppliers.

What is the recommended weight capacity of a standard Laser sailboat?

The recommended weight capacity for a Laser sailboat varies depending on the rig size.

The ILCA 6 (Laser Radial) is suitable for sailors between 60 kg and 75 kg , while the ILCA 7 (Laser Standard) is better suited for sailors weighing 75 kg to over 90 kg.

The ILCA 4 (Laser 4.7) is designed for younger and lighter sailors. When choosing a Laser sailboat, ensure that the rig size matches the intended user's weight range for optimal performance.

What are the characteristics that define the best Laser sailboats on the market?

The best Laser sailboats on the market offer a combination of durability, performance, and ease of use.

Look for models with robust construction. They are made from high-quality materials to withstand harsh sailing conditions.

Additionally, seek sailboats with easy-to-use rigging systems and low-maintenance designs.

Also, make sure they have support from reputable manufacturers. This ensures they meet strict class specifications.

Is sailing a Laser suitable for beginners and what are the challenges involved?

Sailing a Laser is generally suitable for beginners. These boats are known for their simplicity, ease of use, and responsive handling. However, beginners should be prepared for some challenges.

These challenges include mastering the correct body positioning and balance or adjusting to different wind and weather conditions. It's essential for new Laser sailors to familiarize themselves with the boat's assembly and rigging process and seek guidance from experienced sailors or trainers. This ensures a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

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How to Rig a Laser Sailboat

Last Updated: February 1, 2024

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 25 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 149,046 times. Learn more...

This is a step by step instruction on how to rig the original laser.

• The sail should now be flapping in the wind.

• If you have cleated the outhaul properly, the boom should now stay up on its own.

• Test it by pulling up on the rudder. Then put on the tiller by sliding it into the space on the top of the rudder. Once it's in, insert the pin to hold it there.
• Tie the dagger board with a long loop of elastic to the eye at the very front of the boat.
• Verify the elastic creates enough friction that the daggerboard will stay up or down (even when you invert the boat).

Community Q&A

• If this is a new boat, rig it entirely, on land, and test out all the parts. Pull on the mainsheet and such, in order to make sure nothing breaks. This way, you're not stuck on the water when a part of the boat fails. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• Flake the main sheet twice, once on hull then lastly inside cockpit so the bitter end is on the bottom..also a weather cane clipped on mast directly across from boom is helpful as well as tell-tales (and a whistle in your life vest and a helmet on your head). Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• When rigging the boat, make sure it is pointed into the wind Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

Things You'll Need

• The boat itself (the hull)
• the dagger board and a piece of elastic
• the rudder and tiller
• your mainsheet
• both mast pieces
• one hull plug

You Might Also Like

• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKlIYWfhx10
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3HsMXwGUNs
• ↑ https://lasersailingtips.com/rigging-and-launching/
• ↑ http://marinaaquaticcenter.org/sailing/PDFs/Laser%20Rigging.pdf

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Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat

• Thread starter clegofan
• Start date Sep 22, 2012
• Sep 22, 2012

Hello, I am going to be painting my 1974 Laser sailboat. Right now it is an ugly green-faded color. I would like to paint the hull metallic green(going to be mixing metal flake with green) and the deck white. My budget is ~$150. I know it is low but I might have found how to make it work but I'm not sure. Can someone post a step-by-step on how I can go about doing this? I would rather just roll on the paint but I'm not sure if you would need to spray it for a metallic color to make it look good. I only use this boat in fresh water and store it high-and-dry(as you would with a dinghy). Thanks in advance.  

Petty Officer 2nd Class

Re: Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat I would really encourage you to wet sand with about 400 grit, working your way up to at least 800 and then hitting the hull with some buffing compound before you paint it. You may be surprised how nice. Even if you do paint it you will want to sand the gel down as smooth as possible before priming so you have nothing to loose. While you are at it put an access port near the mast step and reinforce it with a couple of layers of glass if this has not been done already. I have a 73 that I cleaned up a couple of years ago and it really came out nice with a couple of hours of work, and your gel coat will be easier to maintain than paint. There are very few that old that are ever sailed. I took mine out racing a couple years ago and the old girl did surprisingly well for her age and their reputation of soft and slow.  

Rear Admiral

• Sep 23, 2012

Re: Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat Welcome clegofan, I know nothing about sailboats, but I can tell you to try and follow "gddavid's" advice about attempting to clean up the gel-coat first...if it isn't too far gone, you might be pleasantly surprised at the results of your efforts... If you end up having to paint...forget anything related to metallics or metal flakes unless you have all the necessary items required for a totally happy finish...by that I mean, the experience working with these types of paints, the right equipment to shoot them, and either have a pro spray booth or can set up a good facsimile at home...any type of metallic paint can be a real disappointment if not done correctly... Here is a real good link on how to paint your boat on a budget... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=384982&page=10&p=3302799#post3302799 Have Fun and Happy Sailing! GT1M  

Vice Admiral

clegofan said: Hello, I am going to be painting my 1974 Laser sailboat. Right now it is an ugly green-faded color. I would like to paint the hull metallic green(going to be mixing metal flake with green) and the deck white. My budget is ~$150. I know it is low but I might have found how to make it work but I'm not sure. Can someone post a step-by-step on how I can go about doing this? I would rather just roll on the paint but I'm not sure if you would need to spray it for a metallic color to make it look good. I only use this boat in fresh water and store it high-and-dry(as you would with a dinghy). Thanks in advance. Click to expand...

• Sep 24, 2012

Re: Painting my 1974 Laser Sailboat Yes, I found an automotive spray gun and detailer for ~$50 and while be borrowing my neighbors air compressor. I have some experience spraying and will be rolling on primer and the top grippaint. The paint and clearcoat will be sprayed on.