model sailboat masts

Other than using a lathe, how do y'all taper wooden masts for wooden ship and boat models?  I've been working on and off on a catboat kit from Bluejacket for a long time now (first wooden kit), and I'm stymied (and a bit intimadated) on the next crucial step - tapering of the mast and boom.  Any insights greatly appreciated.

As an aside, I'd be happy to post pics of where I'm at and progress going forward if someone could direct me to the FAQ or tutorial on posting pics.

Thanks, Rick

Bill Morrison

I've thought about this, but wasn't sure whether the drill should be held stationary in a vise or jig of some sort - your thoughts?  Also, do you think that the other end of the dowel needs to be somehow supported (e.g. fix in a chuck or some jig that rotates, but restricts lateral movement while it rotates)?

Maybe I'm making this too complicated... I look forward to your additional thoughts.

Cheers, Rick 

Bill Morrison

I have used the method that Bill discusses and it works fairly well. I hold the cordless drill in one hand and wrap the piece with sandpaper with the other, working down from the end. There is liable to be some deflection as you go down towards the drill end of the piece, but unless the piece is really long, that should not be a problem. I have tapered spars that were as much as 18 inches long with a hand held drill. If possible, use a dowel that is longer than your finished piece. That way, you can chuck it up without worrying about what happens to that portion in the chuck.

Be advised that the store bought dowels used in kits may take more time to taper than when using a strip of hardwood. The main thing is to work steadily at it and do not get discouraged if it takes some time to get the piece down to size.

Russ

I do recommend fastening the drill down in some way - either in a vise, or to a "Workmate" -type portable workbench, or with a clamp, or with some gadget that's designed for the purpose.  If you're right-handed, mount the drill on the right side of the workbench.  Fasten it down in such a way that you can get at the trigger and the button that locks it in the "on" position.  (That usually means upside-down.) 

The other two things you need are some sandpaper in various grits (from medium to the finest you can find) and a fairly heavy rag.  Fold the sandpaper over several times into a fairly thick pad.

You'll also need some sort of caliper or other measuring device.  Nowadays really nice calipers are available for surprisingly low prices.  (The cheapest I've seen are these, which probably would be perfectly adequate for most modeling purposes:  .  Even the ritzy digital models don't cost much these days, though:  .  A digital caliper that works in both inch and metric systems comes in handy for all sorts of modeling purposes.)

Your left hand (if you're right-handed) will be the tailstock.  (Something has to prevent the wood from whipping around.)  I'm assuming you've already got the spar reduced to the form of a dowel, and that it will fit in the chuck of the drill.  Leave the dowel long enough that you can saw off the part that gets squished by the chuck afterward.  Chuck the dowel firmly into the drill, get a good handfull of the rag in your left hand (to keep your fingers from getting burned), and grab the end of the dowel in your left hand.  Turn on the drill, set the speed where it seems about right (probably the fastest speed the drill will turn), and lock it.  Take the pad of sandpaper in your right hand and hold it up against the rotating dowel.  (I find it's comfortable to squeeze the dowel between two layers of sandpaper.  For smaller spars I sometimes use a narrow strip of sandpaper and wrap it around the dowel.)  Apply pressure gently at first, and keep the sandpaper moving along the length of the dowel.  Start out with medium-grit sandpaper, and work your way down to the finest.  If you stick with it you can produce spars with an almost polished-looking finish.

It sounds primitive, and it is, but it works.  The truth of the matter is that in terms of tools and mechanics, woodturning, even on a big, expensive lathe, isn't much more sophisticated than this.  (The pro holds his chisels, gouges, and scrapers in his hand, and when he gets close to the finished dimensions he switches to sandpaper held in his hand.) 

It does take some practice, and it's a good idea to buy plenty of dowels stock for practice.  But my guess is that by the end of the first evening you'll be turning out spars that are as good as anybody else's.

Hope that helps a little.  Good luck.

The dowels sold in most American hardware stores and home centers these days seem to be made of two species:  oak and birch.  (I get the impression that a place like Lowe's or Home Depot gets whichever the distributor happens to have in stock.)  I recommend avoiding oak; its grain is too coarse, and when turned down to small diameters it gets brittle.  Birch is a nice, workable wood and makes good spars; it is in fact what the American wood kit manufacturers normally supply for the purpose.  (I imagine the spars supplied in the Bluejacket kit are birch.)If you buy a birch dowel, though, take the time to sight down the length of it and make sure it's straight.  If it isn't, don't buy it.  And try to see that the grain is parallel to the length.  (That isn't always easy; the grain of unstained birch is hard to see.)  If it isn't, the dowel is likely to warp.

Some places sell maple dowels.  Maple is nice stuff, but a good bit less springy than birch.  Whether that's an advantage or a disadvantage depends, I guess, on what you're going to do with it.  If the only species you can find is maple, my suggestion is to try it.

Woodworking supply companies sell cherry dowels:     .  I used cherry for the spars of my last model, and really liked it.  It's a bit on the dark side (in the coloration sense - not the Darth Vader one), but turns nicely and takes a beautiful finish.  I don't recommend the walnut dowels that Woodcraft also sells.  Walnut is exquisite stuff for furniture making, but the grain of it is too coarse and brittle for this particular purpose.  (I'm talking here strictly about American walnut.  I have the impression that the European variants of the species work quite a bit differently.)

Hope that helps a little.  Good luck. 

I know from experience that dowels are cut in such a way that the grain almost never runs entirely in one direction. There are bound to be cross grained sections in any dowel, regardless of species that could lead to warpage. That does not mean that every dowel will warp, but it is a possibility with any dowel, no matter how straight it looks in the store. That is why I avoid using them at all. Its much better to get a straight sawn stick of hardwood and make a spar out of that. With a stick of hardwood ripped to rough dimensions, you will always know how the grain runs. With a dowel, you almost never know for sure.

Russ

were tapered, and rounded from square stock, using an old XActo spoke shave, and sand paper.  The topmast is orange wood. As Jtilley mentioned, Cherry is also a good wood. I've used it, and enjoyed working with it. , is planked with Mahogany strips.....I liked the finish color, but would not recommend this material for hull planking, it was very difficult to work with.

Lead me not into temptation ..................I can find it myself

In fifty-two years of model building I've used dozens - probably hundreds - of birch dowels, and I have yet to see one warp after I've shaped it.  (I've also thrown out a few that warped in my shop after I bought them, but before I used them.)  I've also cut plenty of spars from boards, for that matter, and I've never had any significant warpage problem with them either.  Just be careful, and watch how the grain runs.

Bill Morrison

I'm one of Underhill's biggest fans; if he said he saw a dowel do that, I'm sure he did.  I suspect, though, that methods of growing, selecting, and seasoning birch (and maple and cherry) have improved since then.  Every once in a while I see a dowel in a hardware store or hobby shop that's warped into a gentle arc; that one I don't buy.  But I've got dozens of them in my workshop, some of which have been sitting there for - well, I have no idea how long.  None of them shows any sign of warping.

I'm not suggesting that dowels don't warp; they do.  I do think, however, that the problem has been greatly exaggerated over the years.

Bill Morrison

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May 27, 2017

With the lower portions of the masts complete, the next step is to install the  mast hoops .  These need to go on before anything else is attached to the masts.  Once work is started higher up the masts (bands, trestle trees, etc.), it will no longer be possible to slide the mast hoops on.  These need to on now, or never.

Mast hoops are simply hoops…that go around the mast.  The mast hoops are where the sails are tied.  Since the mast hoops move freely on the mast they allow the sails to  remain attached to the masts while also being free to be lowered and raised.  On ships from this era, they were typically made from wood.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides laser cut mast hoops.  They come in two sizes.  The larger ones are for the lower masts, while the smaller ones are for the top masts.  However, both are pretty small and delicate.

Like all laser cut pieces, the mast hoops need to be sanded to remove the laser char.  This will be a little tough/annoying because these things are so small and fragile.  It will also be annoying because I need 37 of them just for the lower masts.

First, I sanded the faces of all the hoops before removing them from the sheet.  I just ran some sandpaper over both sides of the sheet.  Why sand individual pieces when you don’t have to?

Next, I cut them free from the sheet.  I was careful not to remove the center portion of each hoop – I’m leaving that in while I sand the outside (hoping it will increase the stability of these things during sanding).

To make it easier to sand the exterior, I lined a bunch of them up and clamped them together.

Mast hoops are removed from the sheet and prepared for sanding.

While clamped, I went to work with a flexible foam sanding stick.  It took about 5 minutes to get them sanded down enough.

Next I removed the inner pieces from each hoop and started sanding the inside edge.  I used a foam sanding stick for this.

After sanding the outside, the inside of each hoop is sanded.

I was able to hold about 5 hoops together and sand them at once using the method shown in the above photo.  This was faster than sanding individual hoops, but still an annoying amount of sanding.

Once they were all cleaned up, they were dipped in some wood stain.  I’m staining these to match the reddish-brown used for the roofs of my deck structures .  This will make them stand out from the masts, but they won’t look too out of place.

Completed, stained hoops.

Finally, the hoops are slipped onto the masts.  The main mast gets 20 hoops, and the fore mast gets 17 hoops.  For now, they just sit bunched up at the bottom.

Mast hoops dropped onto the main mast.

While I was working on the mast hoops, I also replaced the metal sheet I installed on the main mast.  I had previously made that from copper tape, but I wasn’t happy with it.  On a recent trip to the hobby store I was able to find some 0.005″ thick brass sheets.  I cut a strip of this to use as the metal sheet.

0.005″ thick brass sheet.

To simulate the nails, I just punched tiny holes in the brass.  I didn’t bother trying to glue in wire since these were so small.

Of course on the actual ship this was galvanized steel (like much of the metal work).  But since most of my metal fittings are made from brass, I’m leaving them that way.

Metal band on the main mast replaced with brass.

Now the lower portions of the masts are done, and I can move on to the upper parts of the masts, where all the fun stuff is.

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RC Sailboat Rigging Setup- Briefed in 17 Easy Steps

Table of Contents

Introduction

To build a model sailboat, you’ll need a lot of time, patience, and talent. Remote control sailboat beginners should start by altering or fixing a pre-existing model. It is possible to create a quicker and more sophisticated sailboat by rigging an existing model.

What to do for the rc sailboat rigging setup ?

Tether the retaining bolt and wire mainsail luff. Insert the mast stub and slide the entire main boom assembly. Push the masthead and backstay crane. Adjust the sail to match the mast reinforcement ring. Attach the eye in the mainsail clew. Close the hooks. Set the backstay’s length to the right.

To get the overall understanding, read the entire article.

Things to Bring

• Stitching Device
• Sailboat Controlled via Remote
• Thread Made From Polyester
• Fisherman’s Spectra Line
• Dacron Sails
• Utility knife

Procedure for Rigging

Use these rigging guidelines to their full extent. This ensures that the boat will sail with the qualities and performance that its creators intended. You can also check the RC dirt oval setup guide to ease your work.

Step 1: Replace Old Sails

Remove and replace the old sails. Cut out the new main and headsails from Dacron. Measure the old ones from the model and add a half-inch on each side to the new measurements. Tether the retaining bolt.

Step 2: Wire Mainsail with Eyelets

All six eyelets on the mainsail luff should have wired mainsail luff rings attached to them. 

Step 3: Place the Mast Stab

Be careful not to get the plastic collar’s bevelled edge. Insert the mast stub into the bottom of the mast.

Step 4: Slide Main Boom

From the bottom, slide the entire main boom assembly onto the mast stub.

Step 5: Slide Rings Under the Mast

Starting at the luff of the mainsail, slide all rings beneath the mast one at a time.

Step 6: Assemble Plug

Push the masthead and backstay crane. Assemble the plug into the mast. Cut a 250mm Dyneema length and tie the mainsail’s head to the backstay crane. 

Step 7: Layout the Sail

Adjust the sail to match the mast reinforcement ring at its highest point. The sail’s head may readily swivel. Poles are sheeted out at an angle of 80 degrees when the boat’s sailing with the breeze.

Step 8: Attach the Cunningham

Attach the Cunningham (downhaul) as demonstrated by cutting a 300mm length of Dyneema. Tie a cord to the eye in the gooseneck fitting’s uppermost eye. 

Step 9: Tie Bowsie’s Eye

Follow this path: First, tie one end to a Bowsie’s eye. Then, tie a second Bowsie’s eye; finally, tie a third Bowsie’s eye.

Step 10: Attach the Mainsail Clew

Attach the eye in the mainsail clew (bottom right corner) to the mainsail clew using a line.

Step 11: Close the Hook

Close the hook’s open end with thin-nosed pliers. Keep your sail from falling off while you’re out on the water.

Step 12: Replace the Sail If Needed

If you need to replace the sail, simply use a flat-bladed screwdriver to pry it open once again.

Step 13: Cut Dyneema

For the Backstay, cut a 900mm length of Dyneema. The Backstay Crane’s end hole has a loop where you can tie a piece of string. 

It’s time to attach one of our 6mm stainless steel rings to its bottom end. Using a Mast Socket, insert the mast and the rigged Mainsail into the hull.

Step 14: Attach the Loop

Once you’ve cut a 500mm piece of Dyneema, tie a loop in one end. Weave the other end through the first small gaps in a Bowsie. Then throw the rim at the bottom of the Backstay. 

Finish it back at the Bowsie. Using a metal hook in the Transom (rear edge of the hull), attach the loop to the backstay. Then put the Bowsie nearly halfway along the bottom rope and secure it.

Step 15: Tighten the Leech

To allow the leech (back edge) of the main to twist a little, lightly tighten the compression strut. Such that the leech (back edge) is under mild tension. Adjust the Cunnigham such that the luff of the sail is just slightly strained.

Step 16: Adjust the Position of the Rings

Set the backstay’s length to the right. A spacing of roughly 25 millimetres between the boom tube’s centre. Achieve the sail foot midway by adjusting the position of the silicon rings (SR5) and the mainsail clew hook.

Step 17: Connect the Foresail

Use the spectra fishing line to loop between the grommet and the eyebolt. Connect the foresail to the top of the mast before the mainsail. 

To make use of the foresail, equip the boat’s bow with a second, shorter boom. Connect the sail’s grommets to the short boom’s front and back eye bolts with spectra lines.

You can check these suggested rigging tools. You need these tools for rigging setup-

Apply a few drops of thin CA adhesive into the Dyneema cord at the point of the cut. Then cut through it at an angle. The cut end will be firm and pointed, making it simple to weave through the Bowsies.

A dollop of thin CA adhesive applied to the knot can help keep it in place. Once you’ve tied it, trim any extra rope. 

Don’t use hot gun glue as it doesn’t stick to this type of surface. If you take the time to secure all knots now, you’ll have a long-term reliable vessel.

Tips for Better Setup

A Dacron sleeve should be added where the lines come into contact with the hulls or plastic parts. Because Spectra is extremely powerful and can shred into the material.

Ask sailmakers for scraps or old, ripped sails that you may use to build the remote control boat sails. Only if they are willing to part with them.

There are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to rigging more sophisticated rigs. Like double mast designs or using spinnakers until you’ve gained some experience in the activity. Always clean your RC boat as you clean your RC car to avoid rusting. 

How tight should the rigging on a sailboat be?

If you push or tug on them, they shouldn’t wiggle about too much. So make sure they’re snug. Tighten them up if they’re still slack or floppy.There is no need to tighten any of the other shrouds after the cap shrouds are in place. Because they follow in consecutive order.

What’s the simplest way to sail a boat?

The Lateen Rig is a great starting sailboat. It only requires 2 ropes in its basic form.The Lateen Rig is one of the most basic sailing rigs. A  spar, boom, and mast are all part of this rig. As are a single jib sheet and mainsheet.

How much does it take to replace a sailboat’s rigging?

Re-rigging a sailboat can cost anything from $1,000 to $5,000. Re-rigging a 40-foot boat with wire is estimated to cost roughly $100 per foot. Which includes the round-trip costs of hauling, launching, and unstepping the rig (about $2,500).

Final Words

We’ve discussed here in detail on the rc sailboat rigging setup. This should help with the rigging setup, and we sincerely hope it does.

OK, so the above may look a little daunting. You’ll be able to recall this procedure with ease after completing it five or six times. Be familiar with and comfortable with your tools, settings, and methods.

The very best to you!

Travis Murray

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• 1/700 Scale

1/700 Japanese Navy Kagero-Class Destroyer Yukikaze / Isokaze 2-Ship Set (with Photo-Etched Parts)

In Stock

₽5,462.37 RUB ₽6,827.97 RUB

Only 1 left in stock. Order now!

This item is limited to 1 per person.

Available to Ship Now!

Description

This is an injection-plastic ship model kit.

Fujimi's 1/700-scale model kit of the Japanese Navy destroyers Yukikaze and Isokaze are now available with photo-etched parts! This kit is based on the 1945 appearance of the ship, with a machine gun seat installed in front of the bridge, a No. 22 radar on the front mast, and a No. 13 radar on the rear mast. The No. 2 rear turret has been removed and two 25mm triple machine guns have been installed. The stickers and decals include two types of funnel marks for Yukikaze and Isokaze. The hull and buttom of the ship are separate parts, and you can choose to construct it as either a full-hull or waterline version. Photo-etched parts are included to express even the smallest details that are difficult to reproduce with injection parts; photo-etched parts are included for the handrails, ladders, davits, radar, torpedoes, depth charges and more. Order yours today!

• [Includes] : Decals, stickers, photo-etched parts
• Code: FUJ46103
• JAN Code: 4968728461038
• Release Date: 2024/08/24
• Category: Ships
• Series: Fujimi 1/700 Special Series
• Item Type: Ship Kits
• Manufacturer: Fujimi
• Item Size/Weight: 41 x 15 x 5.7 cm / 350g

Assembly Guide

Skill level 0:, no assembly required, skill level 1:, very easy to complete, skill level 2:, easy to complete, skill level 3:, basic skills required, skill level 4:, advanced skills required, skill level 5:, kits for experts, cement required, a safety note about instant cement, no cement required, painting required, this model kit or accessory must be painted in order to achieve a realistic appearance., no painting required, this item does not require painting..

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