hauling out a sailboat

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Divers find 5 bodies during search of yacht wreckage off Sicily

The Associated Press

Italian firefighter divers bring ashore in a green bag the body of one of the victims of the U.K.-flag vessel Bayesian on Wednesday. The luxury sail yacht was hit by a violent sudden storm and sunk early Monday, while at anchor off the Sicilian village of Porticello near Palermo, in southern Italy. Salvatore Cavalli/AP hide caption

PORTICELLO, Sicily — Divers searching the wreck of a superyacht that sank off Sicily found the bodies of five passengers Wednesday and searched for one more as questions intensified about why the vessel sank so quickly when a nearby sailboat remained largely unscathed.

Rescue crews unloaded three body bags from rescue vessels that pulled into port at Porticello. Salvatore Cocina, head of the Sicily civil protection agency, said two other bodies had also been found in the wreckage for a total of five.

Who are Mike Lynch and the other people missing after a yacht sank in Sicily?

The discovery made clear the operation to search the hull on the seabed 50 meters (164 feet) underwater had quickly turned into a recovery one, not a rescue, given the amount of time that had passed and that no signs of life had emerged over three days of searching, maritime experts said.

The Bayesian, a 56-meter (184-foot) British-flagged yacht, went down in a storm early Monday as it was moored about a kilometer (a half-mile) offshore. Civil protection officials said they believed the ship was struck by a tornado over the water, known as a waterspout, and sank quickly.

Fifteen people escaped in a lifeboat and were rescued by a nearby sailboat. One body was recovered Monday — that of the ship’s chef, Recaldo Thomas, of Antigua.

Thomas was born in Canada, according to his cousin David Isaac, but would visit his parents’ homeland of Antigua as a child, moving permanently to the tiny eastern Caribbean island in his early 20s. Italian officials previously listed Antigua as the nationality of someone on board.

The fate of six missing passengers had driven the search effort, including British tech magnate Mike Lynch , his 18-year-old daughter and associates who had successfully defended him in a recent U.S. federal fraud trial.

Lynch’s spokesperson did not respond to a request for comment Wednesday.

Emergency services at the scene of the search for a missing boat, in Porticello, southern Italy, on Tuesday. Salvatore Cavalli/AP hide caption

What caused the ship to sink so quickly?

Meanwhile, investigators from the Termini Imerese Public Prosecutor’s Office were acquiring evidence for their criminal investigation, which they opened immediately after the tragedy even though no formal suspects have been publicly identified.

Questions abound about what caused the superyacht, built in 2008 by Italian shipyard Perini Navi, to sink so quickly, when the nearby Sir Robert Baden Powell sailboat was largely spared and managed to rescue the survivors.

Was it merely the case of a freak waterspout that knocked the ship to its side and allowed water to pour in through open hatches? What was the position of the keel, which on a large sailboat such as the Bayesian might have been retractable, to allow it to enter shallower ports?

“There’s a lot of uncertainty as to whether it had a lifting keel and whether it might have been up,” said Jean-Baptiste Souppez, a fellow of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects and the editor of the Journal of Sailing Technology. “But if it had, then that would reduce the amount of stability that the vessel had, and therefore made it easier for it to roll over on its side,” he said in an interview.

The captain of the Sir Robert Baden Powell sailboat, which came to the Bayesian’s rescue, said his craft had sustained minimal damage — the frame of a sun awning broke — even with winds that he estimated reached 12 on the Beaufort wind scale, which is the highest, hurricane-strength force on the scale.

He said he had remained anchored with his engines running to try to maintain the ship’s position as the storm, which was forecast, rolled in.

Search teams scour waters along Italy’s southwestern shore, where a luxury yacht sank

“Another possibility is to heave anchor before the storm and to run downwind at open sea,” Karsten Bornersaid in a text message. But he said that might not have been a viable option for the Bayesian, given its trademark 75-meter (246-foot) tall mast.

“If there was a stability problem, caused by the extremely tall mast, it would not have been better at open sea,” he said.

Yachts like the Bayesian are required to have watertight, sub-compartments that are specifically designed to prevent a rapid, catastrophic sinking even when some parts fill with water.

“So for the vessel to sink, especially this fast, you are really looking at taking water on board very quickly, but also in a number of locations along the length of the vessel, which again indicates that it might have been rolled over on its side,” Souppez said.

Italian coast guard and fire rescue divers continued the underwater search in dangerous and time-consuming conditions. Because of the wreck’s depth, which requires special precautions, divers working in tag teams could only spend about 12 minutes at a time searching.

The limited dive time is designed in part to avoid decompression sickness, also known as the “bends,” which can occur when divers stay underwater for long periods and ascend too quickly, allowing nitrogen gas dissolved in the blood to form bubbles.

“The longer you stay, the slower your ascent has to be,” said Simon Rogerson, the editor of SCUBA magazine. He said the tight turnaround time suggests the operation's managers are trying to limit the risks and recovery time after each dive.

“It sounds like they’re operating essentially on no decompression or very tight decompression, or they’re being extremely conservative,” he said.

Additionally, the divers were working in extremely tight spaces, with debris floating around them, limited visibility and oxygen tanks on their backs.

Search resumes for British tech magnate and 5 others after yacht sinks off Sicily

“We are trying to advance in tight spaces, but any single thing slows us down,” said Luca Cari, spokesman for the fire rescue service. “An electric panel could set us back for five hours. These aren’t normal conditions. We’re at the limit of possibility.”

“It’s not a question of entering the cabin to inspect it,” he added. “They’ve arrived at the level of the cabins, but it’s not like you can open the door,” he said.

The Italian coast guard said they had reinforced their dive teams and were using underwater remote-controlled robots, which can stay out for six or seven hours at a time and record the surroundings.

The lack of any signs of life and the recovery of bodies led outside experts to conclude that the search was now a recovery effort and investigation to determine how the tragedy had unfolded.

“I think the fact that there’s been quite a lot of diving presence around the vessel and that they haven’t been able to pick up any signs of life inside the vessel, is, is unfortunately, not a particularly good sign,” said Souppez.

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• Hauling Out

Hauling Out and Laying-Up Ashore

Unless you're lucky enough to keep your boat someplace where you can sail all year around, you're going to face the annual chore of hauling out and laying her up ashore for several months each year.

If your cruising ground is in the higher latitudes then you'll probably want to haul your boat out during the autumn to avoid the rigours of the winter weather.

In tropical regions it's not snow and ice you need to worry about; it's much worse - hurricanes, or depending on your location, cyclones or typhoons.

These malevolent monsters can occur during the summer and autumn months, so the prudent boater will looking to haul out in late spring. 

Either way, your first concern will be in having your boat hauled out of the water safely and without damage, but there are a couple of things to attend to first...

Before Hauling Out...

Some things are best done before hauling out, while the boat's still afloat. For example...

1 - Getting the Sails Off

Now's the time to get the sails down, flaked and bagged - and it's much easier to do with the boat head to wind, which she may well not be when laid up ashore.

And it's never a good idea to leave furling headsails in place; they have a habit of unfurling in a blow.

2 - Changing the Engine Oil

Condensation will have collected on internal engine surfaces throughout the season and this is now contained within the oil. This can cause damage if left in the engine over the winter, so it should be changed along with the oil filters. 

The oil should be warm and viscous or it won't drain properly, so now's the time to do it - just before hauling out.

On Hauling Out...

This always gets the pulse rate up and the sphincter muscle twitching - if you're the owner that is. Now, about those strops...

Positioning the Strops

Lifting strops can do a deal of damage to underwater parts during haul-out if they're incorrectly positioned. Particularly vulnerable are the rudder, the propeller and shaft, and the thru-hull log impeller.

I always place a length of blue masking tape on the hull sides to let the crane driver know where to put the strops. 

Make sure the yard staff put some protection between the hull side and the strop - a sheet of cardboard is fine.

Beware of the Squeeze

If a crane is used for the haul-out, the strops will be hung from a single hook which will impose a pinching load on the hull topsides.

The beamier the boat and the shorter the strops, the greater this load will be. 

Stanchions, toe-rails and guard wires are at risk here - you may need to route the strops inside the guard wires to avoid damaging them, particularly for the stern strop.

Masthead instruments too are vulnerable.

There's no problem at all if the crane driver fits a spreader bar to open up the stern strop, but that means removing the back stay - a prospect which few owners relish, swept back spreaders or not.

Using a crane for hauling out is very much weather dependent. High Winds? Forget it! 

Larger boatyards with a purpose-built dock will likely use a travel hoist instead of a crane.

The wider spread of the strops completely eliminates the crushing loads on the hull but means the boats can't be stacked as closely together - unless that is, they've got one of these...

This is a boat handling trolley, which works in conjunction with a travel hoist.

Some are designed to be towed, but others - like this one at  Spice Island Marine  in Grenada - are motorised.

Another approach to hauling out is by forklift. These were originally developed for the dry storage of small powerboats in racks. 

In this case the large rubberised forks are slid under the boat's flat chines which can be raised and lowered as required. 

Sailboats can't be supported on the forks in this way, so they're dealt with by slinging in strops as shown above.

In the yard where this shot was taken -  Yacht Haven Quay, Plymouth  - they haul out sailboats with their Wiggins 'Marina Bull' Forklift, the largest of which can handle sailboats of up to 10,000lb and lift heights of up to 54 feet.

Breezy conditions raise no problems with a forklift, and the absence of a crane hook means there's no risk of damage to the masthead instruments.

Tripod Jackstands or a Boat Cradle?

If you're using tripod jackstands you'll need at least two either side of course - for my 38 footer I have four either side and one under the bow. 

Unless you're on a concrete hardstanding, each leg of every tripod should be supported by a square of plywood or planking to prevent the foot of the tripod sinking into the ground during heavy rain. 

Each tripod should be chained to its mate on the opposite side of the boat - better still instead of chains, use a network of welded rebar tie-rods to prevent the tripods moving.

Make sure the boat is leveled up such that rainwater will escape through the cockpit drains. A spirit level will be useful here.

For ultimate boat security during the lay-up season, nothing beats a properly designed cradle, particularly if the boat is strapped down to ground anchors too...

Now the Real Work Starts...

If you keep your boat in the Caribbean, you really should take a look at 

'Choosing a Boatyard for the Caribbean Hurricane Season...'

High wind, heavy rain, freezing winters and tropical summers will all conspire to play havoc with your pride and joy.

Inside the boat condensation, corrosion and mildew will be similarly at work.

Here's what you need to do to counteract their malevolent intent:~

Anchor & Chain

Drop the anchor and chain onto a clean surface (an old pallet is ideal), thoroughly rinse in fresh water and allow to dry. Similarly clean the anchor locker before re-stowing the anchor and chain. This is also a good opportunity to check the condition of the chain and galvanising.

Running Rigging

All running rigging including the mainsheet tackle, the kicker assembly, sheets, lazy jacks, sheets and other control lines should be removed and soaked in a mild detergent solution, then allowed to soak in fresh water before drying naturally.

Tie messenger lines to the ends of all your halyards, remove them and clean them as above. 

If you choose not to remove your halyards, make sure they're tied off well clear of the mast, otherwise the constant slapping will damage the mast anodising.

Thru' Hull Fittings

I like to remove my thru' hull log impeller and depth sounder transducer for two reasons:

• It improves ventilation;
• If rainwater does get below, it will drain out;

But if you're in an area where insects and other undesirable wildlife are a problem, then the apertures should be covered by a rot-proof mesh and stuck down with tape as shown here.

Who's not discovered a seacock that was operating flawlessly at the end of one season to be seized solid at the beginning of the next? Here's how to avoid that happening:

• Have one person inside the hull operating the seacock, and another outside armed with a can of non-petroleum based aerosol penetrating lubricant;
• With the seacock open, spray a load of oil up through the seacock into the pipe above, then loudly shout "Close!" ;
• Leave, for the time being, that particular seacock and move on to the next one. This will allow the oil to run onto the barrel of the seacock and do its penetrating stuff;
• When all seacocks have been dealt with in this way, go back to the first one and open and close it several times. Providing it operates freely, leave it closed and move on to the next one. For any that don't open and close easily, repeat the process until it does.

What you definitely don't want in your fuel is  'cladisporium resinae'  which is the correct term for the well known diesel bug that can cause havoc with our engines.

Here's how to prevent this malevolent fungal growth from taking up residence in your fuel:~

• Fill your fuel tank completely, so that there's little or no air space above the fuel in the tank. Why? Well, it's here that condensation would otherwise occur, and our little bug friend needs water to establish itself and multiply;
• Treat the fuel with a biocide designed to kill the little blighters if they've managed to get established despite your efforts.

Not sure if your fuel is contaminated? There are several diesel fuel bug detector kits on the market that will tell you one way or the other.

Exhaust Waterlock

These moulded plastic devices collect water that drains back from a wet exhaust system, preventing it from running back into the engine, and also reducing the noise in the exhaust system.

They're usually fitted with a drain plug for draining out any water before the winter lay-up. If you don't do this, you risk any contained water freezing and splitting the waterlock.

And you should also disconnect the engine-side hose. If you don't, particularly in hot climates, any remaining water in the waterlock will evaporate and the water vapour will find its way into the top end of the engine, causing havoc with the valves.

You might not want to remove the mast every year - particularly if the yard you're in has no mast storage racks - but doing so every four years or so for a close inspection and overhaul makes good sense.

As a minimum the aft end of the boom should be lashed down on deck, but it's better to remove it completely and lay it on the side-deck or coach-roof.

Cutless Bearing

Also known as Cutlass Bearings, these water lubricated devices are fitted inside the P-Bracket, supporting the shaft and maintaining its alignment with the gearbox. Check your shaft for movement within the bearing. If there's anything more than the slightest movement, you need to fit a new one.

This is the time to check all sacrificial anodes. If they're significantly eroded they should be renewed. If they don't appear to be eroding much at all, it's not a cause for celebration - you need to find out why they're not doing what they're supposed to do, so check all connections and contact surfaces.

Incidentally, if your boat's propeller shaft is supported by a P-bracket it's always worth fitting a shaft anode ahead of it. Then, if your shaft coupling fails, your propshaft won't slide out through the hull leaving a hole that could sink you.

Here, the owner has fitted three shaft anodes, but they're a little too close to the P-bracket.

Why? Well the cutless bearing requires a thru-flow of water to lubricate it, and in this arrangement the proximity of the anodes is diverting the water flow around it. Expect it to wear out soon.

So fit the shaft anode at least 3" (75mm) or so forward of the bearing, allowing the anode the lubrication it's entitled to, which will extend its life considerably.

Batteries, Windcharger & Solar Panels

You can either make sure your batteries are fully charged, then disconnect them to reduce current drain to a minimum, or leave the battery bank connected to a solar or wind-powered charging device.

One of the small vertical axis trickle charge wind generators is ideal for this, but their more muscular horizontal axis cousins may well overcharge the batteries or destroy themselves in a winter storm. In my view they're best tied up in such a way that the blades can't rotate but allows the whole thing to weathercock into the wind.

Solar panels too are excellent for keeping the batteries topped up during the winter lay-up, their charge being much reduced due to the low altitude of the sun and the short daylight hours.

But if you do choose to keep them charged in this way, you should also leave a low current electrical device switched on, as batteries like to 'work'. Not a GPS set though, because prolonged use may damage the screen - as I found out to my cost. 

Read the makers instructions for details of how to prepare it for a long lay-up. Our Katadyne needs to be biocided (I may have created a new verb there) if it is to produce anything other than disappointment on next year's cruise.

The Gas System

Light all burners, then turn off the gas at the bottle remembering to turn the burners off when they go out.

Remove all canvas covers - sprayhoods (that's 'dodgers' in US speak) dodgers (that's 'weather cloths' in the US), sailcovers, cockpit cushions etc - wash in warm soapy water, rinse and store until launch time.

Outboard Motor

Outboard motors, that whilst working perfectly at the end of one season, can steadfastly refuse to get up and go at the beginning of the next. 

What you need is 'fogging' oil. Here's how to use it:~

• Fire up the outboard, making sure the cooling water intakes are fully submerged of course;
• turn off the fuel supply, leaving the engine running at idle;
• just before the engine dies, it will start to cough and splutter. At this point, spray fogging oil into the carburretor until it stops. You can ignore the smoke...  

This will purge all the petrol (US, gas) from the fuel system, reducing the possibility of varnish forming as petrol evaporates, and will coat all internal engine parts and protect against corrosion.

A Hauling Out and Laying Up Checklist

We all have our own  Hauling Out and Laying Up Checklist  - here's ours...

Accessories

• Clean and bag dinghy;
• Remove BBQ;
• Remove Danbuoy and HS lifebuoy; 
• Remove Life Sling; 
• Lubricate locks;       
• Remove all batteries from torches etc; 
• Wash insect screens;
• Clean watermaker filters; 
• Pickle watermaker;
• Turn off gas at cooker and bottle;   
• Turn off gas locker vent valve; 
• Sort chart table contents;
• Flush toilet with fresh water;
• Turn off inverter circuit breaker;
• Turn off battery isolators; 
• Turn off anchor windlass circuit breaker;

Fabrics and Interior

• Clean underside main hatch;
• Clean bilge;
• Clean carpets and cabin sole;
• Clean and close curtains;
• Clean upholstery;  
• Fill fuel tank;
• Drain and dry water tanks;

Hull, Deck and Cockpit

• Remove tiller;
• Check condition of anodes;
• Fit deck hatch covers;
• Remove thru-hulls and install insect mesh;
• Deck/Hull clean;
• Wash anchor, chain and locker;
• Clean stainless steel;
• Fit instrument covers;
• Tie up windcharger and turn off;
• Lay up outboard motor;
• Main engine oil/filter change;
• Grease shaft seal;
• Drain and disconnect exhaust box;
• Lubricate seacocks;
• Clean and grease prop;

Sails & Canvas

• Remove and wash bimini;
• Remove and wash dodgers (weathercloths);
• Remove/bag sails;
• Remove and wash sailcovers;
• Remove and wash sprayhood;
• Clean cockpit seats and cushions;

Spars and Rigging

• Remove jackstays;
• Remove mainsheet, vang, runners etc;
• Tie out halyards;
• Secure boom on deck;

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Boat Haul Out

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For many, an annual haulout is the end of the boating season. Plan it all out first so it doesn't make you crazy.

Spring and fall are the busiest seasons for hauling. Make sure to plan ahead with your marina to ensure they can fit you into their schedule.

Many boats will have to be hauled by a boatyard or marina at some point. You might think that all you have to do is show up with your boat to be plucked from the water and deposited safely in the yard, but not so fast. Forward planning ensures things go smoothly for you, your boat, and the yard.

Make Arrangements

If your marina has a travel hoist, hauling at your home port is often the most straightforward option: Your boat will already be at the haulout location, and the yard staff may be familiar with it. If it's not possible to haul at your marina, there are specific logistical considerations, not least that you will have to move your boat and deliver it to the yard at the appointed time.

Once you've decided where your boat will be hauled, you need to decide when. Give the yard as much notice as possible: Don't wait until the day before and expect them to be able to accommodate you. Keep in mind that the yard's busy season is during late fall when boats are pulled for winter storage and then again in the spring when boats are relaunched. Schedule accordingly. Jay Leszynski, owner of Merri-Mar Yacht Basin in Newburyport, Massachusetts agrees, "Spring and fall are our busiest times by far. Not only do we have a lot of boats to move, but we have to plan where to put them once they come ashore. Letting us know your plans early helps us a lot".

Cost And Scope

Check with the yard on how much you will be charged for haulout service. Most yards charge by the foot and will often have a minimum fee. In many cases, the cost also includes a relaunch, but you need to be sure. Some yards have haulout contracts. If yours does, read it carefully to know what is — or is not — included. If your yard doesn't have a contract, ask questions and take notes so you are clear about the arrangements.

If you expect your boat to be out for a fairly short time for some maintenance, such as a bottom job, anode change, thru-hull or transducer installation, tell the yard this. If your boat is buried at the back of the lot with other boats parked in front, you may not be able to launch when you want. If you are storing ashore for the winter months, let the yard know when you would like to be launched in the spring, as this will have some bearing on where they place your boat.

Pressure washing the boat is often included in the cost of the haulout.

If you want the yard to do some work on your boat while it's out of the water, talk to them about it up front. If you forget to tell them, it may delay things if they don't have you on the schedule or they don't have the necessary parts in stock.

If you plan to do some or all of the work yourself, talk to the yard about this, too. They may have policies about what you can and can't do yourself. Many marinas prohibit owners from working on their boats, citing insurance or environmental reasons, which is sometimes merely a way of getting more work for their crew. Flexible marinas may allow you to do your own work provided you comply with all rules, such as no hull sanding without a vacuum and laying ground cover under the boat to catch hazards like spilled bottom paint.

Lifting Your Baby

On the actual day of the haul, plan to be there if you can. You'll be able to take a look at just how fouled the bottom is before it's pressure washed and you'll get an idea of how your antifouling paint is working. Most yards do this immediately after the boat is hauled so the fouling doesn't set like concrete. "We always pressure wash a boat as soon as it comes out of the water," Leszynski says. "We have a waste-recovery system, and this ensures any bottom paint, dirt, or other contaminants are contained. Pressure washing is included in the fee for hauling, and we won't move a boat into the yard until it has been washed."

It's normal for the owner to drive the boat into the travel hoist pit unless you have made alternative arrangements. Have plenty of fenders on both sides of the boat to protect the topsides should you be blown sideways. Listen carefully to instructions given to you by the yard staff operating the hoist who will have done this maneuver many times before. You probably won't need docklines because the boat will be going right into the slings, but check with the lift operator. Larger sailboats may have to back in to the pit and even have the backstay removed so the rigging will clear the hoist. The staff won't lift a boat with you or the crew aboard so they'll tell you when to get off and anything else they need you to do before vacating the boat. Don't forget to shut off the engines, air conditioners and other equipment before the boat is hoisted.

When the boat is out of the water, check and replace anodes if they are more than 50 percent wasted.

All tanks should be as empty as possible, and while it may not be practical to drain fuel tanks, it is relatively easy to drain water and waste tanks. Full tanks add significant weight to the boat, and empty tanks will put less strain on the boat's structure when it is sitting in an unnatural element on land.

Before the boat is hauled out of the water, tell the travel hoist operator about any underwater appendages, such as fin stabilizers or pod drives, transducers, speed wheels and other things not easily seen when the boat is in the water that could be damaged by the travel hoist slings. "We are familiar with most boat designs", says Leszynski, "but it is helpful if owners mention things that may be special about their particular boat".

Larger yachts often have what's known as a "graving plan," which is a layout of where blocking and other supports go when the ship is drydocked. Although you probably don't need to go to these lengths, a photo or two of the boat in the slings that you can share with the hoist operator is often appreciated, especially if the boat is rare or an unfamiliar type. A profile shot is the most useful. This is especially true with sailboats, as it will show the keel configuration, the position of any skegs and rudders, and where the shafts exit the boat.

Slings can scratch gelcoat, paint, and varnish. To avoid damage, ensure the yard has and uses soft muffs or plastic sleeves over the webbing on the straps. Once the slings have been correctly positioned, adding those little "sling here" marker labels, available from chandlers, is a great idea and will save time at subsequent haulouts.

On The Hard

If your boat is being lifted for anything more than an hour or so, often called a "short haul," it is likely that it will be placed on blocks in the yard and supported with jackstands. If this is the case, tell the yard about any relevant structural features of your boat. Some downeast powerboats, for example, have hollow keels aft, which could potentially suffer damage if the boat is improperly blocked and supported. In cases like this, blocks should probably run lengthwise rather than athwartships to provide adequate support.

If you plan on doing any work on your boat, you'll most likely need access to power and water. Make sure that you have any necessary extension cords or adaptors as it is often up to you to provide these, not the yard.

As a general rule, the workers in the yard have much experience moving and blocking boats, so it's best to leave it up to them as to how they do it. By all means watch, but don't interfere unless you see something that is wrong or unsafe; if you see a problem, bring it up with the yard manager.

Once the boat is settled into her spot, inspect the jackstands. Ensure they have chains between them to prevent them from spreading, which could cause the boat to fall over. Be sure that the attachment points of the chain to the jackstands are secure. Sometimes the slits in the metal of the frame into which the chain links sit are torn or bent from use, which could result in slipping or failure. If a stand is severely rusted, ask to have it replaced.

Also check the ground beneath the jackstands. If the stands are resting on, for example, sandy or loose soil, and especially if there's a slope, this may present a problem in heavy rains. The majority of jackstands will have three or four legs and unless they are on a solid surface, they should have sturdy plywood pads or other good support placed underneath to distribute the weight over a larger surface area, preventing them from sinking into the ground. If you see any problems, discuss them with management as soon as possible

Sometimes when you are working on your boat, such as when applying antifouling, you may need a jackstand moved. An alternative to moving stands, which will often incur an additional fee, is to have some antifouling paint and brush in hand when the boat is lifted for relaunching and apply some paint to those areas covered by the pads prior to the boat being launched. If you can't be there to touch up the bare spots, often the yard workers will do it for you if you leave the paint and a brush. For your safety, and for that of your boat, do not attempt to adjust or move stands yourself; ask the yard to do it.

While You're At It

Irrespective of what other work you may have to do when the boat's out of the water, now's the time to check the anodes and replace them if they are more than 50 percent wasted. Also use this opportunity to inspect propellers, rudders, transducers, and seacocks. If anything seems amiss and it was not on your original to-do list, attend to it now.

Don't rely on the yard having a ladder. Bring your own, and either take it with you or lock it up when you leave at night.

Launch Time

Once the boat is put back in the water, check the bilges carefully for leaks. Hoses that have been disconnected from thru-hulls have sunk more than one boat. If your boat has a drain plug that was removed when the boat was hauled, make sure that the yard staff know where this is or there may be a delay in getting your boat back into the water. Sometimes, because of shifting hull stresses while the boat isn't supported by the water, shaft alignment may be affected by a haulout, at least temporarily. Be sensitive to this possibility when you run the boat after coming from the hoist.

Pay your bill before launch time, or you may find that your boat can't go back in when you think. Most yards have a saying: "No cash, no splash."

8 Essential Questions To Ask Your Yard

What's the cost of hauling and relaunching? Some yards quote just the haulout price and some include the relaunch in their price. Usually haulouts are charged based on length of boat, but not always, so ask.

Can I work on my boat myself? Not all yards allow you to work on your own boat, often citing insurance concerns. Check on what's allowed if you plan on doing any work yourself.

Are there any "lay days" included? If your boat will only be out for a few days, there may not be any storage charges, but some marinas charge by the day, week, or month as soon as the boat is blocked in the yard.

Is there a fee to bring my boat to the haulout well, and how much is it? If you need the yard to move your boat because you're not able to, there'll most likely be an additional charge. If you're a long-time customer, though, you may be able to get it waived. Bimini or backstay removal may come with an extra fee.

Does the cost include a high-pressure washdown? Most marinas provide this service as part of a haulout, but ask, don't assume.

Where will you put my boat? After hauling, your boat will be blocked ashore. In a large marina, that could mean a long hike from the office or chandlery, and worse, possibly too far from electrical power or water, which you might need.

Can I bring in outside contractors? Marinas want you to use their services and may charge you a fee or even a percentage of your outside contractor bill. Most will require the contractor prove he's properly insured. Some prohibit outside contractors altogether, citing liability, though there is little risk to the marina if you and your contractor have the proper insurance.

When will my boat be relaunched? If you hope to use your boat the next weekend, you could be disappointed if the yard tells you it could be several extra days. Let your yard know in good time when you'd like to go back in the water, but be aware that sometimes tides and weather may preclude you from getting your ideal time and date.

— Charles Fort

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The Haul Out Checklist Every Boater Needs

If you’re a vessel owner, you know that boat haul-out is an absolute must. It is necessary for regular maintenance and repairs to ensure that your boat stays in good condition. And as the end of the boating season is nearing, it is time to store your vessels for the winter. Even if you live in a warmer climate with less harsh winters, there are still some valuable maintenance procedures you can implement at this time of year.

Haul out is highly recommended for annual maintenance and cleaning purposes, relocating the vessel or treating areas susceptible to wear and tear or moisture damage.

Table of Contents

While the procedures can be daunting, experts suggest doing it right to protect your vessel throughout the colder seasons. That said, this blog provides a comprehensive checklist for boat owners to follow, to ensure a successful haul out. What to Do Before the Haul Out?

As per reports , mechanical failure was one of the five main reasons leading to boat accidents in 2021, further emphasizing the importance of timely maintenance. That said, hauling out your boat before winterizing ensures your boat is in optimal condition when spring comes around. Here are some expert pre-haul-out tips to follow, as you proceed:

• Mechanical test run: Take your yacht on a short spin to analyze the mechanical condition. Warm up the engine and proceed to run at high rpm to check whether it runs smoothly. If you cannot reach the maximum engine rpm, it is likely that there may be some issues.
• Shaft seal test: During the boat haul out , analyze whether the bronze housing surpasses a temperature of 130 degrees Fahrenheit (which is a service indication). If your stuffing box contains dripless seals, check whether it’s in exact condition or if service is required.
• Weight reduction: Your boat need not be heavier than usual while being carried out on land. Thus, ensure to drain any excess water, waste tanks or heavy materials onboard to bring back the weight to normal.

To read a detailed blog on how to winterize your boat, click here .

Post-Haul Out Procedures You Should Know

If you’re present while your boat is being carried out of the water, here are a few things you must cross-examine first:

• Immediately pressure wash after boat haul out to ensure that the bottom is clean.
• Examine for blisters on the wet surface and request to analyze the base with a moisture meter.
• Once the bottom dries out, see for any wet patches or moisture and chalk out these areas for maintenance.

Important Boat Maintenance Tips to Follow

Hauling out your boat creates an excellent chance to carry out necessary maintenance tasks. Mentioned below are some additional boat maintenance tips in that context to help you increase your boat’s lifespan –

• Paint the bottom: Check for areas with paint loss to recolor after cleaning the hull and leave it to dry before it sails into the waters again.
• Check for corrosion: Being a common step during marine management , it’s important to examine all corners for signs of corroded exterior/interior to pursue anti-rusting treatment.
• Examine anode condition: If you find a higher number of eroded anodes, it’s an indication of replacement. Although zinc is widely popular, aluminum is a more eco-friendly alternative for fresh-water boating.

Shrink-wrapping Your Boat: Simple, but Effective Form of Protection

Shrink-wrapping a boat before winter is of paramount importance in maintaining its longevity and protecting it from harsh weather conditions. Winter presents numerous challenges for boats, such as freezing temperatures, snow, ice, and prolonged exposure to moisture. Shrink-wrapping acts as a robust barrier against these elements, serving as a protective shield for the boat’s exterior.

The shrink-wrap material used in the process is made from high-quality, durable polymer film that tightly envelops the entire boat, creating a sealed environment. This barrier prevents moisture from seeping into the boat, safeguarding it against potential damages caused by water intrusion. Moreover, shrink-wrapping acts as a safeguard against snow accumulation by providing a structurally rigid covering that can withstand the weight of heavy snowfall.

Benefits of Shrink-Wrapping Your Boat

In addition to its protective qualities, shrink-wrapping also helps to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. By creating a sealed environment, it effectively restricts the entry of moisture, which is conducive to the growth of these harmful agents. This is especially crucial for boats that are stored outdoors during the winter months.

Furthermore, shrink-wrapping a boat has the added benefit of deterring pests and critters from taking refuge within the vessel. The snug fit of the shrink-wrap discourages rodents, birds, and insects from accessing the boat’s interior and potentially causing damage.

Beyond the protective aspects, shrink-wrapping a boat before winter also simplifies post-winterization processes. Removal of the shrink-wrap is a straightforward task, and it eliminates the need for extensive cleaning or extensive maintenance that would otherwise be required if the boat were exposed to the elements throughout the winter.

Wrapping Up

In conclusion, regular haul-outs can help detect mechanical, chassis, or secondary problems before they can incur serious damage. about dockmaster inc..

DockMaster is an industry-leading marine management system for marinas, boatyards, and boat dealerships. Visual Marina™ management includes storage & billing, occupancy tracking, reservations, and dry stack management, including integrations to leading consumer applications for boat rentals, online reservations, concierge/launch scheduling, and our new fuel integration with FuelCloud. To request a free demo, click here .

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Hauling Out a Boat: Everything You Need to Know About Hauling

Posted by Boat Lover's Towel on December 02, 2022

Boat owners know how important it is to maintain their vessel, especially if that vessel spends most of their time in the water. Annually hauling out a boat isn’t just an option for mariners—it’s expected. 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the nuts and bolts of boat hauling so you can be ready for your next voyage.

What Is a Boat Haul-Out?

A boat haul-out removes the vessel completely from the water to inspect and repair its bottom. 

Typically, a professional haul-out team can perform your boat hauling.

What Can I Expect During My Boat’s Haul-Out?

So, your boat is no longer water bound. Now what? 

Once your vessel is out of the water, several maintenance tasks can be performed. These can include an antifouling bottom job, running gear maintenance, through hull fittings, and more. Let’s take a closer look at these tasks and how they can benefit your boat.

Pressure Wash

Just because your boat has been in the water doesn’t mean it isn’t dirty. Your boat should be given a good wash once it’s out of the water. Use a wash mitt , round boat brush , and a handy extension pole to scrub those hard-to-reach areas.

Running Gear Maintenance 

Many boat owners and captains have an inkling if their running gear isn’t working properly. This is usually indicated by poor engine performance. Once your boat is hauled and blocked, your service team will clean or foul your running gear. They will also inspect your strut bearings and engine mounts. 

Through Hull Fittings

Your service team will perform a thorough inspection of all through hull fittings. Seacocks are fitted into all inlets for the engines, generators, drains, and other outlets. Once in place, the service team will inspect the through hull fittings and seacocks, remove any marine growth, and look for any corrosion.

Antifouling Bottom Painting

Antifouling is a paint applied to the surface of a boat hull to reduce the number of barnacles and other sea life that attach themselves to it. As many boat owners say, it’s smart to keep the bottom of your boat as clean as its top .

How Much Does Boat Hauling Cost?

The boat haul-out cost depend on the yard and team you choose, but you can expect to pay around $26 per foot. Cost can include running gear maintenance, through hull fittings, and bottom painting.

Contact your local boat hauling service crew for an accurate estimate. 

We Make Boat Cleaning Easy at Boat Lover’s Towel

Now that your boat has been hauled, inspected, and painted, you should hit the water in style. Using an ultra-absorbent towel to wipe away harmful water spots is an easy way to prevent mold and mildew, and will keep the top of your boat sparkling clean. 

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Everything to Remember when Hauling Out a Boat

Annual Maintenance Routine and Antifouling Bottom Job

Shortsighted boat owners who lengthen the time between haul outs cost money in the long run. Conventional wisdom says it pays to haulout annually for hull painting and maintenance, but some folks stretch that period to 18 months or even two years. The pros know better and keep their bottoms as clean as their topsides.

Once a Year

“I recommend hauling out every year to catch the bottom before the growth starts to build,” said Joe Zammataro, service manager at V&G Yachtworks in Dania Beach. “Because once the growth starts to build, that’s when you get water penetration and lose performance and fuel efficiency.”

Overall, the haulout service for a 50-foot vessel focuses on three main categories: running gear, through-hull fittings and bottom paint. Each category is important, and within each are sub-categories that may or may not pertain to a vessel, depending on the hull material, age and known performance and mechanical problems.

Running Gear

“Some boaters pay very little attention to their running gear,” said Michael Carey of Florida Marine in Riviera Beach. “If it’s not aligned and working properly they are just throwing money away in regard to efficiency and wear and tear.”

Most captains have picked up clues during the boat’s operation that there could be a running gear malfunction, indicated by prop vibration or poor engine performance. Once the boat is hauled out and blocked, the service team works on the running gear problems first, because parts may need to be ordered.

“The props can be sent outside the yard for dynamic balancing, and back in time for re-launching,” said Michael Bach, service and sales manager for Rybovich Spencer in West Palm Beach. “The performance records on board and other fixed datum give the propeller shops the required information to tune the props. The boat’s records also help determine whether more work needs to be done, such as drawing the shafts out of the boat. You will only do that when needed.”

Running gear and outdrives will be cleaned of fouling, and can be painted with special paint systems. Zinc anodes are usually replaced even though some of the old anode is still there. Strut bearings will be inspected to check for excess clearance, and strut bolts are checked for tightness, corrosion or leakage. Engine mounts are checked if vibration has occurred.

“A good tip is to do a thorough sea trial prior to hauling the vessel,” said Paul Engle, president and general manager of Bradford Marine in Fort Lauderdale. “That way problems can be pinpointed a lot faster.”

Through-Hull Fittings

A physical inspection of all the through-hull fittings is done. Metal through-hulls last longer and are more damage resistant, but they will also corrode, and the evidence of corrosion is a green or white residue. Plastic through-hulls are non-corrosive but will degrade after long-term exposure to ultra-violet light.

Inlets for the engines and generators, and drains for the bilge and other outlets, are fitted with seacocks. Seacocks allow the through-hull to be closed off, and the position of a lever-type handle tells you instantly if it is open or closed.

The service team will inspect the through-hulls and seacocks, remove marine growth and inspect for corrosion and degradation. Prevention is key to ensuring seacocks work properly, and its recommended that the seacock handle should be moved through its fully closed and fully opened path once a month.

Bottom Painting

The last step in the process is prepping the hull and applying the bottom paint. The purpose of bottom painting is to prevent the growth of barnacles and other evidences of fouling on the bottom of the boat. Almost all recreational boaters use an ablative paint that wears off over time. Conventional, or hard paint is used in high-performance applications, where keeping drag to a minimum is crucial.

For well-maintained boats, the bottom-painting procedure is similar for fiberglass-, aluminum- and steel-hulled boats. The bottom is mechanically sanded and profile work is done, and then the ablative paint is applied. However, a fiberglass boat that hasn’t been hauled in a few years would probably have blister problems. Steel boats that have been in the water a long time would likely be suffering from corrosion, as would aluminum boats. Boats with these problems need more preparation work, and costs increase with the additional time and labor.

Some boaters scrub their own hull bottom monthly or quarterly, or hire someone to do it. This can extend the time between haulouts for bottom paintwork, but obviously does not address running gear or through-hull maintenance. Also be aware that when you clean the bottom, you also clean off the paint that protects the bottom.

The proper sanding and removal of old paint and the prep of the bottom is crucial to getting a long-lasting paint job. Ablative paint polymers wash away slowly over time with water movement, and the fouling organisms are scrubbed away with it.

Paint is normally applied by a roller, although some yards apply paint with a sprayer. A sprayer is often used on larger boats. One coat of paint is normally sufficient for boats that will be hauled annually. “Unless the customer is going to be gone on a long trip for two or three years, we feel that one coat will last a year,” Engle said. “Otherwise it gets expensive for the customer.

Service Timeline

On a 50-foot fiberglass sportfishing boat with a good maintenance record, a haulout, service and re-launch can be completed in four to five days. The caveat to that time frame concerns what the service team finds once the boat is out of the water. In general, though, here’s how a haulout usually proceeds:

1) Haul boat out, pressure wash immediately before the hull dries

2) Block the boat and stage for out-of-water work

3) Inspect and confirm the work list and original estimate

4) Negotiate and finalize add-on work found during out-of-water inspection

5) Begin work on clearances, running gear, propellers

6) Inspect and repair through-hull fittings

7) Remove and replace zinc anodes

8) Prep the hull and apply bottom paint

9) After paint is properly cured, re-launch boat

Research the fees associated with hauling out. Call around your local area to shop rates and pick an operation that has a proven track record. Other fees that may be added on include insurance on the job and an EPA charge to dispose of hazardous waste. EPA charges run about 2.5 percent of the bottom job quote.

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Tales (not just) from the high seas

Sailboat Haul Out Methods: A Cruiser’s Guide

There are many sailboat haul out methods, but which (and where) would we choose as our favourite in south-east Asia?

We’ve been hauling out our boat, Esper , since 2004 (in south-east Asia since 2014) so we have plenty of experience. But with all that practice, and no matter how competent the yard, it’s always somewhat nerve-racking. A sailboat is supposed to be in the water, isn’t it? And once you put it on land, all kinds of stresses and loads appear that weren’t there when she was floating.

Hauling out is particularly disconcerting when it’s the first time with a new yard and a new method.

That being said, there are some general guidelines and best practices that can help you choose the most appropriate method for hauling out your sailboat. Here are some options to consider:

If your sailboat is small and light enough, you may be able to use a boat trailer to haul it out of the water. It is a cost-effective option, as you can often rent a trailer and do the haul out yourself. But, it may not be suitable for most cruising boats.

Travel Lift

A travel lift is a type of crane that can lift your sailboat out of the water and onto land. It’s a common method for hauling out larger sailboats, and is typically done at a boatyard or marina. It feels safe and sturdy when you’re on your boat as it moves to its new temporary home in the boat yard

As sailor and boat owners, we can tell you that there is no one-size-fits-all answer to the question of the best method to haul out a sailboat. The ideal method will depend on a variety of factors, such as the size and weight of the boat, the type of hull, and the location of the haul out facility.

Hydraulic Trailer

A hydraulic trailer is a specialized type of boat trailer that uses hydraulic lifts to raise and lower your sailboat. It is a good option for boats that are too heavy for a regular trailer, but not large enough for a travel lift. The initial outlay is less than a travel lift and many yards in south-east Asia have this option

A railway system uses a cradle on rails to lift your sailboat out of the water onto land. We have seen two of these in south-east Asia (both Thailand) and they seem sturdy.

Ultimately, the best method to haul out your sailboat will depend on a variety of factors, including the size and weight of the boat, the location of the haul out facility, your own experience and confidence in the yard. Before making a decision, it’s important to do the research and consult with a professional or other cruisers in the area who may have used the facilities.

Southeast Asia has all of these methods, and here at Medana Bay, they employ the simple tractor and trailer method.

Hauling out on a track at PSS

But before this, when we arrived in south-east Asia, we hauled out at PSS in southern Thailand. There we undertook a total refit and filmed the year-long process. If boat work in exotic locations is your passion check out our TOTAL REFIT playlist .

PSS is a proper old-fashioned fishing boat yard, so it’s not the prettiest of places. They employ a winch and railway system for haul-out. In a nutshell this means that cradle is rolled into the water on a trolley, the boat manoeuvred on to it, then pulled up until the keel is securely resting there.

Once the boat is in place, a winch system pulls the whole caboodle out of the water onto the yard tracks where it is manoeuvred into its parking slot.

Pangkor Marina’s hydraulic lift

Our next haul-out was at Pangkor Marina in Malaysia, where they use a hydraulic lift with inflatable pads.

This is probably our favourite method of haul-out.

You simply park the boat on top of the trolley, the operator inflates the bed, and then the boat is comfortably pulled onto land! Couldn’t have been easier!

The worldwide Travel Lift

Of course, south-east Asia also has classic travel lifts of varying sizes too.

Krabi Boat Lagoon Marina has the most beautiful hard-stand we’ve every encountered. Here, the lift is planted over the slip and you drive your boat into position. There are loads of staff to take lines, hold the boat, and attach slings, allowing you to get off and go for breakfast while the staff haul and park your boat.

But not all yards are created equal, and although Kudat does have a travel lift, we discovered that access to the slip was tricky.

There were unusual currents, countless obstacles and a jagged entrance. And once we made it through the obstacles we were left to rely on help from a sailor mate with a fag in his mouth who caught our line and held us in place (because there was no cleat)!

Jamie reveals our ALL-TIME FAVOURITE ANTI-FOUL PAINT in episode 339 on our YouTube channel . Watch it here on followtheboat or go straight to YouTube.

How often should I haul out my sailboat? It’s recommended to haul out your sailboat at least once a year for routine maintenance and inspections. If you notice any issues or damage, it’s important to haul out your sailboat as soon as possible.

Can I leave my sailboat on the hard for an extended period? Yes, you can leave your sailboat on the hard for an extended period, but it’s important to take the necessary precautions to prevent damage. This includes regularly checking the hull and ensuring that the sailboat is properly secured.

How much does it cost to haul out a sailboat? The cost of hauling out a sailboat can vary, always check with the yard first.

If you like our content and would like to support us, we will give you ad-free access to our videos before they go live to the public, discounts in our shop, access to Jamie’s iconic full-res photographs, and supporter-only blog posts. Click our ugly mugs for more info!

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Pro Tips to Hauling Out

Every skipper should go through a “what-if” scenario when considering a specific place to haul. These “what-ifs” include the potential impact of gale or storm-force winds, a significant tidal rise, and torrential rain.

Low-lying facilities exposed to the most volatile wind direction can spell trouble, as can a yard that’s notorious for catching rainwater runoff that turns a hard pan surface into soupy muck-destabilizing the jack-stands that support the blocked up boats.

During hurricane season, tidal surge presents the biggest concern there, but it is usually the vessels in the marina rather than those blocked up on land that suffer most. In winter, volatile storms can pack the punch of a tropical storm, so whether afloat or on dry land, a vessel needs to be able to endure the onslaught.

Equipment & Operator Skill

Frayed lifting slings, deteriorated pilings, and rusty machinery may still work, but more often than not, they are signs of the overall quality of workmanship that a boatyard has to offer. Those seeking lowest-cost options need to be especially aware of how their boat will be hauled and handled. When all is said and done, its hard to beat a new or well-maintained Travelift or hydraulic trailer. Equally important is the dock or ramp it operates on. But no matter how good the gear, the skill of the operator is the most important variable of all.

With sailboats, sling placement is crucial, and the geometry of the hull shape in conjunction with the cable lead adjustability on the lift will determine how equal the sling loading will be. Also critical is the cable angle, a factor that can lead to sling slippage, and in extreme cases, a vessel being dropped. A skilled operator will know how to handle various hull shapes and what rigging must be undone to fit a vessel into the confines of a Travelifts web.

One bit of boatyard wisdom worth remembering: “Being told that yours is the biggest vessel ever hauled by the facility should not be confused with words of encouragement.”

Cranes up the ante for concern, and their operation requires extreme care, especially if they are used to transport a vessel once it is hoisted from the water. Bulkhead collapse, tire failure, and shifting ground can set the stage for disaster. Hauling via a Travelift, hydraulic trailer, and even the venerable marine railway are usually better options. Above all, if your boat is being hauled by a crane, be sure the operator uses “spreader bars,” a cage that keeps the sling load from compressing the hull.

Our tool of choice is a conventional Travelift that runs out onto a well-supported lift pier. Their setup is well protected from wind and sea. Ideally, the lift operator has decades of experience, and knows both the capacity of his lift and the challenges of any given vessel.

When it came time to haul PS test boat, an Ericson 41, the operator had us turn the boat around, release the back stay, and with runners set, he hauled the boat stern first. This was easier than removing a headstay and inner forestay, and allowed for better sling spacing. The efficient haul was followed by a thorough high-pressure wash down that removed all soft marine growth, leaving behind only a few tenacious barnacles at the bottom.

Blocking and Shoring

Standing up a vessel thats designed to float can be a challenge. In many cases, the hull skin is too thin to take the heavy point loading associated with too few blocks under a keel or near overextended pads or jack stands.

Properly executed, the blocking and shoring process is a means of spreading contact loads and rigidly supporting a vessel in a vertical position. Sailboats with external ballast easily endure the pressure imposed by keel blocks but may be troubled by the hull weight pressing down and flexing the keel/hull joint. Many lightly built race boats are fitted to special cradles that spread loads to numerous large contact points and allow the keel to hang.

In gale-force conditions, some race boats stowed in such a fashion, especially those stored with their masts still stepped, have been known to develop a pendulum-like keel motion that can capsize the cradle-supported boat. Wedging the keel bulb to prevent such an oscillation makes sense.

In our case, the yard crew used plenty of timber blocks for keel support and cross chained screw-jack poppets to provide both athwartship and fore and aft stability.

There is a subtle but significant difference between these three-legged stands. The ones with a narrower base are less stable and harder to use effectively. When supporting a sailboat with tripod-like jackstands, the idea is to extend an imaginary right-angle line from the hull skin to the ground at every pad point, and make the jackstands centerline axis coincide with this line.

The more it diverges, the more there’s a tendency to “kick out” a stand if the vessel starts oscillating in high winds. Chaining the stands together lessens this likelihood.

Once a boat has been shored and blocked, it’s a good idea to layer tarps or plastic sheeting beneath it. That keeps cleaners, paint, paint removers, and other chemicals from contaminating the ground. Layering the tarps means you can remove a soiled one and have a clean surface to kneel or stand on.

For more details on hauling out, see our previous blog post “ The Captain’s Responsibility When Hauling Out .” If you are looking for a yard that allows do-it-yourself work, check out the list of “ Reader Recommended Do-it-Yourself Boatyards ” that accompanies our report “ Do-it-Yourself Boatyards .”

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Hauling Out? How to Protect Yourself

Published on May 25, 2022 ; last updated on June 21, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock

Let’s talk about one of the less-fun aspects of boat ownership: haul outs and repairs. 

Generally things go well with these. But like any service, there can be some unscrupulous characters. So how do you avoid the bad ones? 

First, if you’re a new boat owner or in a new area, ask local boaters both for recommendations and for “watch outs.” They are your best resource. And get several opinions, rather than just one person’s experience. 

Second, always, always, always get a written estimate outlining the work to be done and the expected cost. Do not settle for a statement that work is x dollars per hour — you need to know how many hours of labor are expected. Also get a completion date.  

An estimate should say that you must give approval if work will exceed the estimate by a certain amount, although this can be tricky if the work is only partially complete and the boat can’t be put back in the water as is (say when hull repairs are being made).  

A very detailed estimate needs to happen before your boat is hauled out. Once the boat is hauled, the boatyard has all the power as they control when (and if) your boat goes back in the water. If you’re not experienced in boat repairs, you may want an experienced friend to look over the estimate both for completeness and reasonableness. If you don’t have someone you trust, another option is to hire a surveyor as a consultant on the project. 

In the rare case that the scope of work truly cannot be assessed until the boat is out of the water, you should have an agreement as to the cost of the initial haul and diagnosis, including a statement that if the estimate is unsatisfactory the boat will be relaunched upon payment of that sum. 

And don’t forget to get additional written estimates for any extra work not covered in the initial estimate. You don’t want to get a nasty surprise when you go to settle up! 

What do you do if an estimate doesn’t seem reasonable? It could be due to high charges, that you are doing too much, or that work is being done to a luxury standard when something less would still serve your purposes.You might get a second estimate from a different yard which would hopefully reveal n unscrupulous facility. Another option would be to discuss the scope of the work and see if there is another alternative either to how much is being done or the standard to which it is being done.  

Haul outs and repairs don’t have to be nightmares but it’s up to you to protect yourself. Written estimates, signed by all parties, are an important part of that.  

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Christian Eck says

June 1, 2022 at 12:06 pm

Good afternoon Carolyn, First, I hope all is well. I have become a fan lol, not something I do very often at all. However I first heard of you some years back posting blogging about cooking on boats, I took interest as I enjoy a good meal and had been planning for some time like 14 years to purchase and live on a boat. I have had two daughters in my care and wanted to make this plan happen sooner with them but I felt I may have been pushing my luck, in a way I’m glad I waited for them to grow older, working and caring for two girls AND starting all this change may have been just too much. A year ago I finally sold my townhome and purchased a Pearson 34, in Jacksonville. I am currently working on a water mixer elbow replacement and many other things. I cant live aboard where the boat is currently, so I’ve been looking into and for places I can live aboard, looks like Stuart, FL may be my choice. I have a 200 ton license as I used to be a charter/private Captain here in Fl, but that is what caused my divorce in the first place. I have been Surveying boats now for 7 years in the Palm Beach area. “Bounty Yacht Services LLC”. Though I may have a lot of knowledge myself in the area of boats, I don’t have the EXPERIENCE of living on board a small sailboat. I enjoy the information folks like you share, I feel as though your information is real and straight forward “In the real effort to be helpful” Truth out of experience! Thank you very much for doing what you do and sharing. Christian Eck

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What to expect during a haul out.

Post by Team Dockwa - Published on 09/02/22 12:30 PM

Lucky for you, Dockwa has you covered! Below we’ve compiled a simple guide to follow ahead of your next haul out.

Check-in with the marina 

Hauling at your home port is often the more straightforward option, but it's not always possible based on your boat’s size and the needed equipment. If you need to haul your boat at a different location, it’s essential to do your homework before identifying where and when scheduling enough time to move your boat to that spot for the haul out.

After deciding where to haul your boat, you need to determine when (if you tend to procrastinate). Then, be extra sure to keep yourself on schedule, giving the boatyard or marina as much time as possible to accommodate you. Remember that the yard's busy season is during late fall , when people pull their boats out for winter storage , and when people relaunch their vessels in the spring . 

Be aware of the cost and work required to haul out 

It’s important to know exactly how much it will set you back when hauling out your boat. Keep in mind that most boatyards charge by the foot and will often have a baseline fee built into the total cost . Some yards will utilize contracts, and if yours does, be sure to read it carefully and thoroughly to know what they will and will not include. Nothing is worse than coming across a hidden fee after signing on the dotted line. On the flip side, if your boatyard doesn't have you sign a contract, be sure to still ask as many questions as possible to have all the information you need. 

Plan to be there when they lift your boat

It may be a no-brainer to some but plan to be present on the day of your boat’s haul out. This way, you can see firsthand the condition of the boat’s hull before it’s cleaned and power washed. Most yards will do this immediately, so the “fouling” (built-up plant and animal life on the boat’s bottom) doesn't set like concrete. 

It's relatively common for the boat owner to drive their boat into the travel hoist pit, so be sure you have fenders on both sides of the vessel to protect the topsides. Always listen carefully to the instructions given to you by the yard staff, and don't forget to shut off the engines, air conditioners, and other equipment before hoisting the boat. Double-check that all the tanks of your craft are empty to avoid added strain on the boat’s structure when it’s lifted and then sitting on land. 

Keep in mind that the slings used to haul out the boat can sometimes scratch its paint and varnish. To help avoid any damage, check with the yard to make sure they use soft muffs or plastic sleeves over the webbing on the straps. 

Inspect your boat once on land

Once your boat is placed on blocks and supported by jack stands in the boatyard, make sure you tell the yard about any structural features they should keep in mind. You can store most boats the same way, but it’s always good to call out anything that could become damaged.  

Then, inspect the jack stands, checking to ensure they have chains between them to prevent spreading (which could cause the boat to fall over). The attachment points of the chain to the stand should always be secure. If it’s is severely rusted, ask to have it replaced to avoid any accidents.  

Once your boat is out of the water, owners should plan to give each part of the boat a full inspection, checking the propellers, rudders, transducers, and anything else usually submerged when out on the water. If anything could use a little TLC, now is the time to make needed updates.

Going into a haul out can be nerve-wracking, especially if you’re new to the process and have never seen a boat lifted from the water. Luckily with the proper knowledge and a great boatyard handling the heavy lifting, the whole process can be simple and stress-free. 

One you're back in the water, you can rely on Dockwa  to book your next slip or mooring and plan your next adventure!

Be sure to check out our other blog posts to get an inside look at our favorite destinations, marinas, liveaboards, and tips for boaters. Join the conversation on Flipboard , Facebook ,  Twitter , and  Instagram .

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• Haul Out Basics

How to avoid unexpected damage and invisible damage that can occur during hauling and shoring operations.

By david pascoe.

Hauling a boat out of the water always entails some risk no matter how it's done. Dry storage facilities have long used fork lift trucks for this purpose, but its hard not to notice that these machines just keep getting bigger and bigger. The largest are rated at 15 and 20 tons or 30,000 to 40,000 lbs. These machines are adapted from those used at port facilities to handle shipping containers.

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Travel lifts, whose fault is lift damage, keel blocking.

• Winter Lay Up

Several years ago my jaw dropped when I saw one of these behemoths hauling a 40’ sportfisherman which probably weighed around 35,000 lbs. In fact, a nearby marina is now routinely handling 35 – 40 footers with this monster. The question came to my mind as to whether boats are designed to be handled this way.

When a fork lift lifts a boat, all the weight of the boat settles onto the forks, obviously. What is less obvious is that how the weight is distributed on the forks depends entirely on the shape of the hull. When first used, fork lifts lifted outboards and stern drive boats. These boats all have their engines in the rear and their chines are relatively straight lines. That means that most likely the boat weight will be fairly well spread out on the forks. But what about boats with curved chines?

The potential for damage exists when too much of boat weight rests on one spot, as would be the case with a curved chine boat. FRP has many strong points, but point loads attack the weakness of the material. We see this all the time when untrained boat yard personnel set boats down on only two small blocks, sometimes resulting in the keel crushing.

Mid engine boats are much more at risk of being damaged when lifted with a fork lift. This is because this type of boat usually has a curved chine line. This makes for a load point rather like a basketball sitting on concrete – only a very small area of the hull bottom is bearing the entire weight of the vessel on the lift fork. The potential for damage is therefore very high. The risk is even higher for cored bottoms since these are even more vulnerable to point loading damage.

For example, Sea Ray made the mistake of coring its 54 footer all the way around the keel. The right way is to have only solid fiberglass where the two halves of the hull meet. In several cases, when set down on five 10” timbers as keel blocks, the keel crushed at all five points. The blocking was adequate but the construction of the keel with a core was not. Since most boats are bottom cored, this presents the same problem as the above example.

Typically a bottom core terminates right at the chine, the very point at which the fork lift will load the hull. This can result in crushing of the core as well as core disbonding. The damage can occur and not be noticed. Two things may then happen. First, the beginning of core disbonding is initiated and will become progressive due to stress during vessel operation. Secondly, core failure can occur through repeated hauling, eventually resulting in a fracture failure.

The question the reader will be asking is how do I know whether this is a problem for my boat. If you have an mid engine inboard engine boat chances are that it has not been designed to be lifted with a fork lift. Secondly, if your boat is more than five years old, it is very probable that it hasn’t been designed for this. If you have a stern drive boat, it is a reasonable assumption that it is designed with fork lifting in mind.

I’ve checked numerous boat owners manuals and the vast majority were entirely silent on the method of hauling, so the best thing is to call the builder before hauling on a fork lift. This should include all inboard boats above 30 feet. Moreover, as we see more and more boat yards replaced by condominiums, the probability is that reliance on forklift type marinas will increase.

This type of lift uses nylon slings and usually only causes hull damage when a hull is defective. On the other hand, damage to rub rails occurs routinely. Rail damage typically occurs either when the lift is small and the boat is large. In other words, the boat is wide enough that the straps will lift straight up and pinch the hull somewhat. The nylon slings stretch and insodoing pull the rail with them. If the rails are not strongly attached, they can either bend or be torn off. Normally the yard personnel will place bumpers under the rails to try to keep the slings off the rail, but this doesn’t always work. Sometimes the rail is just too weakly attached and it bends or pulls loose. The number of slings used doesn’t make much difference.

Hull pinching can occur when the beam of the boat approximates the spread of the straps. The most common lifts are 60 ton and 18 feet wide. Forty and fifty ton lifts are usually wide enough to avoid causing damage, but older 20 & 30 ton lifts are narrower and this is where I see most damage occurring. Boats around sixty feet have beams in this range. However, vessel beam is not the only factor. The depth of the haul slip plus the drop of time also affects the spread of the straps. The further down the vessel is, the more likely pinching will occur. Pinching by the straps places enormous loads on both the rails, deck and hull sides. It is not unusual to hear loud popping sounds when boats are lifted under such conditions. The popping, as you might guess, is fiberglass breaking within the hull. Damage is occurring though people are usually unaware of this as there are rarely any outward signs. However, visible damage does occasionally occur, typically in the form of cracks.

The best way to avoid these serious problems is; don’t haul larger vessels in smaller lifts such as the 30, 40 and 50 ton models, where the beam is approaching the maximum width of the lift. You know this when the vessel is a tight fit. Secondly, if there is a deep tidal fall – say four to six feet or more -- avoid hauling at low tide. If this is unavoidable, locate the internal bulkheads and get the straps placed on the bulkheads. Some builders mark the lifting points in this way, but many do not. Lifting on bulkheads will go a long way toward eliminating compression damage.

Now a word about large late model boats that have huge windows down near the deck, or even in the hull. The area in way of these windows is extremely weak and placing a lifting strap in way of the window can cause compression that results in the window seal being broken with resultant leakage. Some Carver boats are a prime example of this problem.

In most cases it is the boat builder’s for not making the boat strong enough to be lifted by normally available means. Dry storage marinas that use fork lifts have proliferated in the last decade or so. That means that builders should be well aware of the stresses placed on a hull when lifted this way, and should engineer their hulls accordingly. Thus, they cannot claim that abnormal handling is at fault. For larger, heavier vessels, this is not the case. It is very doubtful that 35-40 footers are designed with fork lifts in mind. If damage ensues as a result, assessing fault will be much more difficult.

If your rub rails tear loose on a travel lift, it's really not the yards fault; the boat should have been able to take it since most can. I can tell you from long experience that such cases brought against builders for damage rarely succeed because larger vessels are normally hauled this way. The rails should be designed to withstand these stresses. One exception might be that the builder fails to place fender blocks between the strap and rail, below the rail. Fender blocks will lessen the load on the rail, but not eliminate it. I’ve seen many rails damaged even with the use of fenders.

Having viewed several thousand boat haulings first hand, it’s an understatement to say that most hauling crews are sloppy and inconsiderate. It’s not unusual to see one man trying to handle the whole show, nor is it unusual for damage to occur simply through carelessness. It is prudent to whip out your digital camera and take a few picks of the hull before delivering the boat to the yard, particularly if you won’t be present when hauled. That’s because when your hull scrapes against that low, unprotected concrete piling, plowing a large gouge in the side, unless you can prove that it didn’t occur previously, you don’t have a supportable claim. Oh, yes, and be sure to turn on the camera’s photo dating facility.

A boat owner should not leave it to a boat yard to know how to block his boat. The yard cannot know whether the hundreds of hulls he deals with are strong or weak, or require special care. It is the boat owner’s responsibility to know this – this is a ship owner tradition hundreds of years old. As a rule of thumb, there should be one block for every 10 feet of vessel length on deck. Whenever in doubt, add one more. Never, ever suspend any hull between only two blocks – one at each end. The minimum is three. The width of the block is important, for this affects load bearing area of the keel and that is what this is all about. Block width should be no less than 8” for boats 40 feet and over. Under that, six inches minimum. No 4 x 4’s should be used.

What about jack stands? Occasionally I see boats in the 25-30’ range sitting on jack stands alone. Not good because boats are NOT designed to bear weight in that manner. The purpose of jack stands is hold the boat upright, not to hold the weight of the boat.

It is wise to draw yourself up a blocking plan – in old nauticalese known as a graving plan. It doesn’t have to be fancy, a rough drawing will do, e.g. keel blocks go here, here and here. Add any special instructions, such as sizing of keel blocks. Make a dozen copies and put them onboard. When needed, give to the yard manager telling him this is the way it should be done.

Over the winter a boat will be resting on its keel for a very long time. For this reason it is extra important that adequate shoring be used. One very important feature that is often overlooked is that the keel blocks need to be level. Usually the yard men just throw them down and plunk the boat down on them. Think of what happens when two blocks are high and one is low. Effectively a three block shoring now has only two supporting blocks! Its not hard to imagine the effect of a heavy boat sitting like this for six months. A good yard will run a string level across the blocks to ensure that they are level.

So what’s the big deal about shoring except for possible keel crushing? It’s a misshapen hull. This is much less a problem for a short haul but for winter layup its definitely a big deal. The way they build boats today, it is a mistake to think that a fiberglass hull won’t distort; they can and they do.

Good yards have well prepared storage areas that have been compacted by years of travel lift operation over a heavy gravel surface. Before contracting for winter layup, make an inspection of the storage area. What you don’t want to see is soft ground where the travel lift wheels have sunk into the surface, causing ruts. Note whether the area appears swampy or prone to standing water. Frozen wet ground is bad news since it will turn to pudding come spring.

Posted October 29, 2006

David Pascoe - Biography

David Pascoe is a second generation marine surveyor in his family who began his surveying career at age 16 as an apprentice in 1965 as the era of wooden boats was drawing to a close.

Certified by the National Association of Marine Surveyors in 1972, he has conducted over 5,000 pre purchase surveys in addition to having conducted hundreds of boating accident investigations, including fires, sinkings, hull failures and machinery failure analysis.

Over forty years of knowledge and experience are brought to bear in following books. David Pascoe is the author of:

• " Mid Size Power Boats " (2003)
• " Buyers’ Guide to Outboard Boats " (2002)
• " Surveying Fiberglass Power Boats " (2001, 2nd Edition - 2005)
• " Marine Investigations " (2004).

In addition to readers in the United States, boaters and boat industry professionals worldwide from nearly 80 countries have purchased David Pascoe's books, since introduction of his first book in 2001.

In 2012, David Pascoe has retired from marine surveying business at age 65.

On November 23rd, 2018, David Pascoe has passed away at age 71.

Biography - Long version

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• All about Bilge Pumps
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• Is Your Boat a Leaky Tiki?
• Maintaining Stern Drives
• Maintenance Fundamentals Part I : Engines
• Myth of Condensation in Fuel Tanks, The
• Preventing Rot in Encapsulated Wood Structures
• Repairing Diaphragm Pumps
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• Solving Chronic Battery Problems
• Tips on Painting Fiberglass Boats
• Washing Down
• From Other Category
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• What is Pre-Purchase Survey?
• Business Practices and Client Relations
• Sound vs. Seaworthiness
• Hull and Its Structure
• Surveying the Hull
• Using Moisture Meters
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• Drive Train
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• Fuel Systems
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• The Nature of Investigations
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• Finding the Leak
• Sinking Due To Rain
• Fire Investigations
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• Interrogation Techniques
• Deposition & Court Testimony

Published by: D. H. Pascoe & Co., Inc. Articles, Images: Copyright © 1997 - 2018 David H. Pascoe All rights reserved. Articles, Images: Copyright © 2019-2022 Junko A. Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site design & developement: Copyright © 1997 - 2023 Junko A. Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site: Maintained by Junko A. Pascoe

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2020 Washington Haul-Out Guide

Before we know it, the accumulation of untreated crud we can’t see creates even greater problems for us (and higher bills) if left untreated. That is why haulouts are important and winter is the perfect time of year to get it done.

We are a lucky bunch in the Pacific Northwest as our region has many boatyards that haul out vessels. Please find in this guide a sampling of haul-out services. It’s always a good idea to call ahead to discuss your specific needs (and don’t worry, they have heard it all!) The important thing is that you make the call and regularly address the maintenance needs of your boat. And when that’s done, you can scout out an air duct cleaning service! Good luck!

Services Guide

Not every boat yard or marina offers every service, but some of the basics are represented at a glance in each entry below.

This year’s guide is organized by region, so click on your destination or read on! South Sound Central Sound North Sound

South Sound

Csr marine south.

N 47°24’ 01.012” | W 122°19’ 42.358”

22501 Dock Ave., Des Moines, WA 98198 www.csrmarine.com 206-878-4414 [email protected]

Haul-out by travel lift for vessels up to 50’ length overall and up to 25 tons.

Gig Harbor Marina & Boatyard

N 47°19’ 48.554” | W 122°34’ 49.36”

3117 Harborview Dr, Gig Harbor, WA 98335 www.gigharbormarina.com 253-858-3535

Haul-outs with 50-ton capacity lift, available for vessels from 15’ to 60’ length overall. This location monitors VHF channel 69.

Hylebos Marina

N 47°16’ 15.913” | W 122°22’ 26.095”

1940 Marine View Dr., Tacoma, WA 98422 www.hylebosmarina.com 253-272-6623

A 35-ton travel lift for boats up to 45’ long, 14.5’ wide and an 80-ton travel lift for boats up to 75’ length overall, 18.5‘ wide.

Modutech Marine

N 47°16’ 25.609” | W 122°22’ 43.336”

2218 Marine View Dr., Tacoma WA, 98422 www.modutechmarine.com 253-272-9319

Three boat lifts are available for haul-outs, including the new 85-ton capacity lift. Vessels can also be hauled out on the railway.

Suldan’s Boat Works

N 47°31’ 51.167” | W 122°40’ 17.815”

1343 SW Bay St., Port Orchard, WA 98366 www.suldansboatworks.com 360-876-4435 [email protected]

Haul-out by marine railway for boats up to 55’ length overall and/or 35 tons. Marine store and moorage available at this location.

Swantown Boatworks

N 47°3’ 21.44” | W 122°53’ 54.703”

650 Marine Drive NE, Olympia, WA 98501 www.portolympia.com 360-528-8059 [email protected]

Haul-out options include an 82-ton travel lift for vessels from 17’ to 80’ in length and up to 21’ wide and a jib crane with a 10,000-pound capacity. Forklift and crane services are also available on site. This location monitors VHF channel 65A.

Yachtfish Marine Northwest

N 47°32’ 14.546” | W 122°38’ 52.152”

53 SW Bay St., Port Orchard, WA 98366 www.yachtfishmarine.com 360-876-9016 [email protected]

A 30-ton capacity travel lift that accommodates vessels up to 50’ length overall is available.

Zittel’s Marina

N 47°9’ 53.459” | W 122°48’ 35.038”

9144 Gallea St. NE, Olympia, WA 98516 www.zittelsmarina.com 360-459-1950 [email protected]

Offers hydraulic trailer haul-outs for vessels up to 42’ and a conolift sling lift for boats up to 50,000 pounds and 52’ in length. Complete bottom painting services. Dry storage is also available.

Central Sound, Seattle, & Lake Washington

Canal boatyard.

N 47°39’ 35.896” | W 122°22’ 13.402”

4300 11th Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98107 www.canalboatyard.com 206-784-8408 [email protected]

A 55-ton travel lift, boom truck, and forklift are available for haul-outs.

N 47°39’ 45.228” | W 122°22’ 48.006”

4701 Shilshole Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98107 www.csrmarine.com 206-632-2001 [email protected]

Two 70-ton capacity travel lifts are available for vessels up to 75’ length overall.

Delta Marine Industries

N 47°31’ 05.508” | W 122°18’ 42.48”

1608 S 96th St., Seattle, WA 98108 www.deltamarine.com 206-763-2383 [email protected]

Haul-out by a travel lift capable of lifting 440 tons for vessels up to 170’ length overall.

Dagmar’s Marina

N 48°0’ 53.31” | W 122°10’ 38.382”

1871 Ross Ave., Everett, WA 98201 www.dagmarsmarina.com 425-259-6124 [email protected]

Forklift for boats up to 12 tons with a maximum length overall of 38’. Does not haul out sailboats or catamarans. This location monitors VHF channel 77.

LeClercq Marine

N 47°39’ 20.588” | W 122°22’ 11.328”

1080 W Ewing St., Seattle, WA 98119 www.leclercqmarine.com 206-283-8555 [email protected]

Haul-out options include a 35-ton capacity travel lift and 150-ton capacity crane for vessels up to 100’ length overall.

Northlake Shipyard

N 47°38’ 49.117” | W 122°20’ 20.97”

1441 N Northlake Way, Seattle, WA 98103 www.northlakeshipyard.com 206-632-1441 [email protected]

Two dry docks available, accommodating vessels up to 1,900 tons and 1,000 tons.

North Lake Marina

N 47°38’54.383 | W 122°20’45.823”

6201 NE 175th St., Kenmore, WA 98028 www.northlakemarina.com 425-482-9465 [email protected]

Haul-out for boats with a max beam of 13’. On-site fiberglass repair and refinishing.

Pacific Fishermen Shipyard & Electric

N 47°40’ 4.163” | W 122°23’ 16.407”

5351 24th Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98107 www.pacificfishermen.com 206-784-2562 [email protected]

Options include a 100-foot by 200-ton marine railway, 160-foot by 600-ton marine railway, and the original Rowe 140-foot by 600-ton screw lift dock with 140’ of covered end track rails.

Port of Edmonds

N 47°48’ 30.664” | W 122°23’ 22.442”

336 Admiral Way, Edmonds, WA 98020 www.portofedmonds.org 425-775-4588 [email protected]

Haul-outs available with a 50-ton capacity travel lift, accommodating vessels up to 58’ length overall and with 15.5’ of beam. This location monitors VHF channel 69.

Port of Everett

N 48°0’ 02.58” | W 122°13’ 2.287”

1205 Craftsman Way #105, Everett, WA 98201 www.portofeverett.com 425-388-0678 [email protected]

A 75-ton capacity travel lift available for haul-outs. Plenty of marine businesses nearby, including boat sales and storage, canvas and upholstery, engine repairs and parts, marine supplies, and woodwork. This location monitors VHF channel 16.

Seattle Boat Company

N 47°39’ 15.285” | W 122°19’ 16.739”

659 NE Northlake Way, Seattle, WA 98105 www.seattleboat.com 206-633-2628 [email protected]

Haul-out by 14-ton capacity forklift for vessels with a maximum beam of 11’ and length overall of 36’ (yard capabilities determined on a case by case basis after measurement specifications are provided). Seattle Boat Co. does not provide haulouts to sailboats.

Seaview Boatyard (Seaview West)

N 47°40’ 37.237” | W 122°24’ 24.716”

6701 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 www.seaviewboatyard.com 206-783-6550 [email protected]

55-ton and 80-ton lifts for vessels up to 71’ length overall are offered here.

South Park Marina

N 47°31’ 36.732” | W 122°18’ 44.307”

8604 Dallas Ave. S, Seattle, WA 98108 www.southparkmarina.com 206-763-2383 [email protected]

Haul-out by adjustable trailer for vessels up to 45’ length overall, 30-ton max.

Waypoint Marine Group

N 47°40’ 0.44” | W 122°23’ 40.79”

5350 30th Ave. NW Suite C, Seattle, WA 98107 www.waypointmarinegroup.com 206-284-0200 [email protected]

Haul-out services by a marine lift that accommodates vessels up to 30’ length overall.

Yachtfish Marine

N 47°37’ 47.951” | W 122°19’ 48.174”

1141 Fairview Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98109 www.yachtfishmarine.com 206-623-3233 [email protected]

A 60-ton travel lift accommodates haul-outs for vessels up to 70’ length overall. Bottom paint, fiberglass, detailing, and boat restoration services also available.

Yarrow Bay Marina

N 47°39’ 14.969” | W 122°12’ 21.139”

5207 Lake Washington Blvd. N.E., Kirkland, WA 98033 www.yarrowbaymarina.com 425-822-6066 [email protected]

Forklift with 11-foot extensions and 20-foot straps available for haul-outs. It can accommodate vessels weighing up to 15,000 pounds and up to 30’ length overall.

North Sound, San Juans & Bellingham

Albert jensen & sons shipyard.

N 48° 31’ 31.807” | W 122° 59’ 57.318”

1293 Turn Point Road, Friday Harbor, WA 98250 www.jensenshipyard.com 360-378-4343 [email protected]

One 22-ton capacity travel lift available for haul-outs. Both power and sail accommodated. There is a marine store on location.

Cap Sante Marine

N 48° 29’ 54.391” | W 122° 36’ 9.871”

2915 W Ave., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.capsante.com 360-293-3145 [email protected]

Two travel lifts offer haul-outs for vessels up to 50 tons in weight.

Dakota Creek Industries

N 48° 31’ 9.617” | W 122° 36’ 37.992”

820 4th St., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.dakotacreek.com 360-293-9575 [email protected]

Specializing mostly in industrial vessels, haul-out options include cranes for 275-, 175-, 90-, and 60-ton vessels, a Syncrolift Shiplift with a 4,200 ton lifting capacity, a Kamag Transporter for vessels up to 240 tons; and a module transport system for vessels up to 500 tons.

Deer Harbor Boat Works

N 48° 37’ 33.203” | W 123° 0’ 10.108”

155 Channel Rd., Deer Harbor, WA 98243 360-376-4056 [email protected]

Hydraulic trailer and boat ramp available to haul-out vessels weighing up to 20 tons with maximum length overall of 45’. Mechanical repairs, service calls, fiberglass and epoxy work, rigging, long and short term storage. Specializes in wooden boat repair. Marine store on site.

Hilton Harbor Marina

N 48° 45’ 13.365” | W 122° 29’ 33.957”

1000 Hilton Ave,, Bellingham, WA 98225 www.bitterendboatworks.com 360-733-1110

One 12,000-pound capacity hoist for vessels up to 28’ long and 10’ wide are offered. Fuel is also available for purchase.

Islands Marine Center

N 48° 30’ 50.476” | W 122° 54’ 47.685”

2793 Fisherman Bay Rd., Lopez Island, WA 98261 www.islandsmarinecenter.com 360-468-3377

Haul-out by travel lift for vessels up to 25 tons in weight with a maximum beam of 13’. This location monitors VHF channel 69.

La Conner Maritime Services

N 48° 24’ 8.589” | W 122° 29’ 43.504”

920 West Pearl Jensen Way, La Conner, WA 98257 www.laconnermaritime.com 360-466-3629 [email protected]

La Conner Maritime Services operates two travelifts for vessels up to 110 tons in weight with a maximum beam of 24’6”.

Latitude Marine Services

N 48° 22’ 28.981” | W 122° 30’ 23.462”

18578 McGlinn Island Lane, La Conner, WA 98257 www.latitudemarine.com 360-466-4905 [email protected]

A 100-ton capacity sling lift available for haul-outs.

The Landings at Colony Wharf

N 48° 45’ 9.297” | W 122° 29’ 17.447”

1001 C St. A, Bellingham, WA 98225 www.landingscolonywharf.com 360-715-1000 [email protected]

Haul-outs available from a crane with a maximum capacity of 30 tons.

Lovric’s Sea-Craft

N 48° 30’ 40.262” | W 122° 38’ 43.234”

3022 Oakes Ave., Anacortes, WA 9822 www.lovricseacraft.com 360-293-2042 [email protected]

Haul-outs available for boats from 30’ to 150’ length overall. Two marine railways for vessels up to 800 tons in weight with maximum beam of 50’ are available.

Marine Servicenter

N 48° 30’ 9.893” | W 122° 36’ 24.113”

2417 T Ave., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.marinesc.com 360-293-8200 [email protected]

A 55-ton capacity travel lift is available for haul-outs to accommodate vessels with a maximum beam of 18.5’.

Mariner’s Haven

N 48° 17’ 6.828” | W 122° 37’ 52.292”

1701 SE Catalina Dr., Oak Harbor, WA 98277 360-675-8828

Haul-out for both sail and power vessels up to 25 tons and 50’ length overall.

North Harbor Diesel & Yacht Service

N 48° 29’ 54.329” | W 122° 36’ 32.131”

720 30th St. A, Anacortes, WA 98221 www.northharbordiesel.com 360-293-5551 [email protected]

Haul-outs provided by Sea-Lift machines (three available) capable of lifting vessels up to 65’ length overall and weighing up to 45 tons.

North Island Boat Co.

N 48° 29’ 40.312” | W 122° 41’ 4.529”

1910 Skyline Way, Anacortes, WA 98221 www.northislandboat.com 360-293-5635 [email protected]

One travel lift for vessels up to 55 tons and one 20-ton capacity hydraulic trailer are available. This location offers marine electronics packages with installation.

On-Board Marine Services

N 48° 59’ 32.225” | W 122° 45’ 44.909”

218 McMillan Ave., Blaine, WA 98230 www.onboardmarineservices.com 360-332-5051

A travel lift for vessels up to 30 tons and marine railways to 250 tons are available. On-Board Marine serves both commercial and recreational vessels.

Pacific Marine Center

N 48° 30’ 11.288” | W 122° 36’ 27.374”

2302 T Ave., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.pacmarinecenter.com 360-299-8820 [email protected]

Two submersible trailers with 30-ton and 45-ton capacity, accommodating boats up to 65’ length overall; a new travel lift for vessels up to 200 tons and 130’ length overall.

Platypus Marine Inc.

N 48° 7’ 21.974” | W 123° 26’ 39.661”

102 N Cedar St., Port Angeles, WA 98363 www.platypusmarine.com 360-17-0709 [email protected]

A 550-ton capacity travel lift and a 50-ton capacity mobile crane are available for haul-outs. Services also available to vessels in the Port of Port Angeles.

Port of Port Townsend (Port Townsend Boat Yard)

N 48°6’ 28.257” | W 122°46’ 29.796”

2790 Washington St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.portofpt.com 360-385-6211 [email protected]

Haul-out facilities include 70-75 ton lifts, as well as one travel lift able to lift vessel up to 330 tons, 150’ in length, and a beam of 30.5’ length overall. This location monitors VHF channel 66-A.

N 48°7’ 5.099” | W 122°45’ 11.005”

419 Jackson St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.seamarineco.com 360-385-4000 [email protected]

Haul-out facilities located in Point Hudson Marina. The 30-ton capacity travel lift accommodates most vessels up to 52’ length overall.

Seaview North Boatyard

N 48° 45’ 30.83” | W 122° 30’ 18.923”

2652 N Harbor Loop Dr, Bellingham, WA 98225 www.seaviewboatyard.com 360-676-8282 [email protected]

A 165-ton lift and a 35-ton lift available for haul-out for vessels up to 80’ length overall.

Seaview Yacht Services Fairhaven

N 48° 43’ 12.58” | W 122° 30’ 24.46”

805 Harris Ave., Bellingham, WA 98225 www.seaviewboatyard.com 360-594-4314 [email protected]

A 35-ton capacity lift is available for haul-outs that accommodates vessels up to 80’ length overall.

West Sound Marina

N 48° 37’ 48.476” | W 122° 57’ 6.937”

525 Deer Harbor Road, Eastsound, WA 98245 www.westsoundmarina.net 360-376-2314 [email protected]

Haul-out services by lift, available for vessels up to 30 tons. This location monitors VHF channel 16.

Westwind Marine

N 48° 58’ 40.752” | W 123° 3’ 46.244”

721 Simundson Dr., Point Roberts, WA 98281 www.westwindmarine.net 360-945-5523 [email protected]

A 35-ton travel lift is available for haul-outs. Marine store and parts on location, as well as technicians for Mercury/Mercruiser, Volvo, and Yanmar.

New Facilities at Shilshole Marina

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Haul Out & Mobile Service

Off The Hook Yachts - Service utilizes a wide beam 70-ton Marine Travellift for vessel haul out. Certified steel and concrete travel lift piers extend into the Cape Fear River, for a deep lift well basin. Up to 90’ length overall (LOA), both power and sail can be hauled for dry dock service. Off The Hook Yachts - Service can travel to your marina or private dock for in-water service on your vessel. Our territory includes the greater Wilmington area, Wrightsville Beach, Carolina Beach, Southport, Hampstead, and beyond. Mobile marine service is provided as far as Myrtle Beach and Charleston, South Carolina for local boats and transients alike.

What You Need to Know About Hauling Out

by Allison | Jun 8, 2016 | 2016 , Boat Work , Life Aboard , Logbook , Puerto Rico | 1 comment

Yesterday this happened.

I am currently sitting in the San Juan Hilton trying to wrap my brain around our floating house being all strapped down and ready for hurricanes. Please Jesus let there be no hurricanes in Puerto Rico (or anywhere else for that matter) because my Selah is as cozy as can be, but really – I think a stiff wind could send her and her neighbors in for a big ole game of dominoes.

In boat language “putting the boat on the hard”  or “hauling out” basically means taking her out of the water, strapping her down to some concrete and locking her up for a bit. That makes it seem so easy!  In reality – getting a boat ready for hurricane is a boat load (haha) of work. More than I think we imagined.

In fact, we agreed that this is probably our first and last hurricane season haul out. Next year we might just leave her in the water and take our chances – because this haul out stuff is for the birds. Bo is working on a great video that shows exactly how it is done, but in the meantime I wanted to catalog some haul out thoughts for boat friends who may be reading and want to know what all this “haul out” business entails. There are definitely a few things I wish I had known! My brain is only firing on bullet points at the moment, so bear with me as I bullet point you out a list.

We hauled out at Puerto Del Rey Marina in Fajardo, PR. We ended up there based on recommendations and Active Captain reviews. At this point we believe it is the best decision we could have made and would haul out here again. The crew is helpful, knowledgeable and we truly trusted our boat in their hands.

I wish we had known:

• Boat Tenders. A boat tender is essential. It never crossed my mind that we needed to pay someone separate from the marina/yard to check on our boat in our absense. In hindsight this is just my total ignorance and not knowing how things work. Wish I had known up front the $200+ additional per month to budget for a boat tender. After 4 separate, unrelated mentions we hired Samuel Moorehouse and I truly don’t think we would have made it without him. He advised on pest control, storage options, day-of supplies and SO much more. He was a godsend and we can’t thank him enough. Going forward he will be on our boat twice a week to check batteries, handle mold control, rinse off dirt, check for pests and obviously handle any further storm prep. He has already called us to ask why our bilges were running…
• Choose your marina wisely. Puerto Del Rey is a machine. There are 1000 wet slips (boats in the water) and hundreds of boats in storage. It is a huge operation and there are pros/cons that come with any large operation. Unfortunately they are large enough that the EPA has taken notice and as such there are a ton of “environmental” fees and regulations. I am all for saving the environment, but some of the things are just a bit over the top. In hindsight I think we would have done our prep work at a smaller marina and just arrived in time to haul out. We would have saved a bit of cash and a few headaches.
• Power Wash/Sanding . Because of the aforementioned EPA regulations the typical haul out power washing is done quite differently. At Puerto Del Rey you will be powerwashed once you are on the jackstands instead of in the slings. The marina does not do the power washing and you will need to hire your own contractor and provide your own plastic. Samuel handled all of this for us, but by the time you buy the plastic ($85!!!) and hire a power washer, you are looking at quite a chunk of change that we had not budgeted.
• Tie-Downs. You will need to provide your own straps and they do not tie you down. Again, Samuel handled this for us. My own personal ignorance also failed to realize just how close Selah will be to her neighbors. It is VERY tight and they want to maximize space in the yard for obvious reasons. We were advised to check out her resting spot the day before and make sure we were comfortable with where she was going to be placed. We checked for: the condition of the ground (not too soft and fairly level), no trees (hurricanes and trees don’t mix well), location relative to neighboring work yards (lots of dust and dirt flying from the work yard onto your boat.) After some back and forth discussion we were comfortable squeezing in her with some of her friends. Here’s hoping they don’t all fall down together, as you could easily walk from one boat to another.
• Prepare.  I think we were as prepared as much as possible for all the work. And still we had NO idea. I am going to write a separate post on tips for storage, but take whatever you think and multiply by 10. We feel fantastic in that we purged so much stuff from the boat we hadn’t used in the past year. The sheer number of garbage bags and give away bags were astounding – I have no idea where it all came from!  We had 4 solid days to prepare and we used all of them – cleaning, stowing, stripping, waxing, etc…just takes a long time. One of the reasons we would choose another marina for our prep work is because of the distance from our boat to anything. It was a solid 3/4 mile to the laundry, bathroom, trash dumpster, etc…I am ALL about exercise, but it is just plain inconvenient and ineffient to walk back and forth so much. Choose a smaller marina and you can more efficiently do laundry and other chores. (To be fair, they will happily come and drive you around in golf carts, but there are only so many times a day I can call those guys and ask for a ride before they think I am a total PITA.)
• Timing.  From start to finish, it was about 6 hours on our haul out day. We pulled out of our slip at 8am and hopped in a rental car at 2pm. And that was with us being pretty well organized. It just takes a long time to do all the required maintenance and day-of preparations. Blog coming soon about things like closing and greasing seacocks, cleaning thru hulls, stowing dock lines, etc, etc…

Off the top of my head I think that covers the basics. We are super happy with her resting spot for the season and can’t wait to come back and check on her soon. In the meantime, Bo is off to Rio for the summer Olympics and I am headed to Ohio to be the live-in slave/nanny for my favorite little Lola and her soon to be brother!  Hurricane season happens to coincide perfectly with Bo’s busy work season and my need to hang with the littles. For all the non-boat people, hurricane season runs June-November and most insurance companies require you to either be north of Florida or south of Grenada. We got lucky with amazing insurance and they don’t care where we are, so we chose Puerto Rico for proximity to both the mainland US and the Carribean – best of both worlds!

Bo and I are off to massages and naps. Travel day tomorrow back to the US. Bye Selah, see you soon!

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Great post! So much going on. Particularly fond of the massages after all that work… Have a fun summer, guys – and maybe we’ll finally meet up next season!

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• Hauling Out is Hard to Do – Let It Breeze: Goodbye House, Hello Boat - […] The following day, we began haul out prep. While it was hot and humid in the slip, we knew…

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Yachtfish hauls hundreds of boats every year! We do 2-way haul outs for yachts or sailboats being blocked out in the yard for repair work. We also do 1-way haul out using up to a 60-ton lift, for hull inspection or quick repairs below the waterline. We can also load out vessels onto trucks for shipment to your chosen destination. Need shrink-wrapping and vessel decommissioning? We do that as well.

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Once your boat repair or service is complete, Yachtfish Marine will bring it back to you! We can handle the entire process to make it easy, from picking up your boat, to returning it to your home or marina. We will even shrink wrap it to ensure is arrives with a shine. Just give us a call!

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