- BOAT OF THE YEAR
- Newsletters
- Sailboat Reviews
- Boating Safety
- Sails and Rigging
- Maintenance
- Sailing Totem
- Sailor & Galley
- Living Aboard
- Destinations
- Gear & Electronics
- Charter Resources
- Ultimate Boating Giveaway
Replacing Teak Decks is a Monumental Job
- By John Kretschmer
- Updated: February 13, 2018
Like many Taiwanese boats built in the 1980s, my Kaufman 47, Quetzal, was slathered in teak. Side decks, foredeck, cabin trunk, handrails, coamings — a veritable forest afloat. As someone capable of rationalizing almost anything, and because I was able to buy the boat for a great price, I not only accepted the abundance of teak, I embraced it. Of course I knew that practical-minded sailors scorned external wood; indeed, I was one of them before I felt the magic of teak beneath my bare feet, at least on cloudy days when the decks were not scalding. And yes, I knew that teak decks were becoming scarce on new boats and seen as a liability on older boats. But that didn’t stop me from bragging about teak’s unrivaled nonskid capabilities and excellent insulating properties. And I loved the aesthetic, boasting that a handsome renewable resource like teak softened the cold, oil-derived glare of a utilitarian fiberglass deck. I was more than a teak-deck apologist; I was a teak-deck snob.
I bought the boat in 2003, and to my dismay, my decks started to show signs of wear and tear just a few years later. I sail a lot, around 10,000 miles a year, and the decks were subjected to cascades of seawater washing over them and the roughshod treatment of an offshore training vessel doing her job, scribbling rhumb lines across the Atlantic. Although I tried, I couldn’t ignore the screw heads appearing under sprung bungs, the raised and missing caulking on the foredeck and a couple of weathered planks that had splintered. But it was a mugging in Trinidad that hastened the demise of my teak dreams.
I left the boat on the hard for a couple of weeks and hired a highly recommended chap to lightly sand the decks, reseat a few fasteners, replace missing bungs and caulk the worst sections. I returned to a crime scene. My beautiful teak decks had been attacked by a belt sander armed with 16-grit assault paper and smeared with black caulk. At first I wanted to cry, then I wanted to commit a crime of my own. But the damage was done, the life of the decks shortened and, when Quetzal slinked out of Chaguaramas like a shorn English sheep dog, I vowed never again to commission work from a contractor I didn’t know, especially when I was thousands of miles away from the yard.
I kept sailing and mending as I went, but the decks became more and more of an eyesore. When they started to leak, I knew something had to be done. My friends and shipmates grew weary of my incessant fretting over the decks. “Stop complaining and do something,” I told myself, but I could not decide what to do.
I considered replacing them with new fastener-free decks manufactured from templates and mounted with adhesives. These modern teak decks are lovely in every respect except price. When I received an estimate from Teak Decking Systems of $55,000 to $60,000, I became less of a teak-deck snob.
I looked into synthetic teak, also known as fake teak, and was impressed by its appearance and practicality. I gathered a box full of samples and laid them on deck like playing cards. But after boasting about real teak for years, I just couldn’t pull the trigger on installing a synthetic replacement.
I looked seriously at cork and invited myself aboard several aluminum and steel boats to inspect their cork decks. Cork is a natural, sustainable product, but it’s also expensive, the installation seemed beyond my talents and my wife, Tadji, really didn’t like the look. “Cork,” she assured me, “is for wine bottles.”
“I kept sailing and mending as I went, but the decks became more and more of an eyesore. When they started to leak, I knew something had to be done.”
With the realization that every option required the same process to prepare the sub deck, I finally decided to remove the teak, fill the thousands of fastener holes with epoxy, and fair and then spray the decks with nonskid mixed in the paint. My teak-deck days were behind me, alas. It was on to whiter pastures.
The decision was liberating, but I underestimated what a massive job it was going to be to create a utilitarian, low-maintenance fiberglass deck.
I chose the boatyard at Spring Cove Marina in Solomons, Maryland, just south of Annapolis, for the project. Spring Cove has been Quetzal ‘s home away from home, and the talented crew had already made many valuable upgrades and repairs over the years. Full disclosure, the yard is owned and operated by my sister and brother-in-law, Liz and Trevor Richards, vastly experienced sailors who have been cruising off and on aboard their Endurance 37, Wandering Star , (including a circumnavigation) for many years.
My cost-controlling plan called for a mix of DIY and professional work. My friends and I were responsible for the destruction phase of the project, removing the old decks. Time was of the essence, as the gap in my training schedule gave us one month to complete the entire project. The doubters were plenty.
The first step was to pull the mast, haul the boat and block it up in the paint shed. Working under cover freed us from weather concerns. Next, we removed every deck fitting — every cleat, clutch, track, anything mounted directly on teak. Fortunately, designer Mike Kaufman and builder Kha Shing used several solid fiberglass islands to mount high-load winches and the traveler base. Still, this was a time-consuming process, requiring one person on deck, one below, and the removal of just about every headliner to gain access to the stubborn nuts anchoring the through-bolts.
The next task, removing the teak, filled me with emotion. With a heavy heart and cold chisel in hand, I surveyed the once-beautiful teak deck and sighed, remembering times I’d gone forward to reef the main or set the staysail, always with secure footing.
I imagined a process for removal that combined controlled physical effort with a sense of quality and renewal, something Robert Pirsig, author of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, would understand. “A person who sees quality and feels it as he works is a person who cares,” he wrote. I cared. I was even filled with a sense of tranquility; it was going to be OK. I imagined saving teak planks and sending them to former shipmates as keepsakes.
|
In the most caring of ways, I slipped the chisel under the teak on the coachroof and pried. Nothing happened. I pushed harder; still not much movement. I pushed even harder (I have been accused of having the touch of a Russian midwife) and the chisel popped out and gashed my hand. I cursed, then caught myself. "Come on, Quetzal , I care." I reset the chisel and pushed with all my might. An inch, maybe 2, of teak popped free and cracked at the fastener. Hmm? This was going to require a lot less caring and better tools or it might take a year to strip the teak off.
My team and I regrouped at Lowe’s. Bigger chisels, propelled by 3-pound sledgehammers, started to get results. Then we discovered the rotary hammer and demolition bits. Soon, wood was flying and dust filled the air. So much for Zen and deck souvenirs, this was hand-to-hand combat. The Art of War, by Sun Tzu, became our new playbook. “If you know your enemy, and know yourself, victory will not stand in doubt.” Stubborn teak planks, tenacious old caulk and too many stainless fasteners were the enemy.
My fellow soldiers were dear friends and frequent Quetzal crewmembers. Alan Creaser, from Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, was our captain, pushing us through low moments when our knees buckled, backs ached and spirits drooped. Alan, who is currently managing the operations of the legendary Bluenose schooner, reminded us that the original Bluenose, built in 1921, went from "tree to sea in 96 days," crafted entirely with hand tools — surely we could knock off old teak decks in just a few days.
"I am in the sail-training business, after all, and could have been charging them for this invaluable experience. Tom Sawyer wouldn’t have missed that opportunity."
Ron Sorensen, an engineer by trade who has crossed the Atlantic twice aboard Quetzal , has round heels when it comes to my pleas for help. He's a pushover. Bruce Steely fell for Quetzal in the Caribbean, and came to work by boat. His small trawler was loaded with tools, and by the end of the project we had used them all.
I have, unfairly I must say, been accused of being the Tom Sawyer of the sea, working my friends to the bone and offering them nothing but lunch and a few slaps on the back in return. It’s not true. I am in the sail-training business, after all, and I could have been charging them for this invaluable experience. Tom Sawyer wouldn’t have missed an opportunity like that. All joking aside, I am incredibly fortunate to have many talented friends. There is a camaraderie about offshore sailing that breeds genuine friendships.
"Six days after we started, Quetzal ’s deck was clean. We didn’t rest on the seventh day; we celebrated at the tiki bar down the road, a questionable call as the next morning proved."
We have had many shared adventures aboard Quetzal , and those of us who sail her feel a deep connection to her. She's our conduit to blue water and the good life waiting at sea. And when she needs work, we all pitch in. It's just not always easy to explain this utopian ideal to spouses. "You paid this guy how much to sail with him and now you're working on his boat for free?"
By the end of Day Two, the teak was in serious retreat. We had most of the cabin top cleared and were making progress on the more challenging side decks. Nothing about the task was easy. We discovered that leaving fasteners in place and zipping them out with a drill afterward was the best tactic. When the head was stripped, we used vice grips to remove them, and of the 3,000-plus screws that once littered the deck, fewer than 20 remain entombed in fiberglass today.
After four days, every last bit of teak was in the scrap bin. We then went after the remnants of the caulk, a tough slurry concocted in Taiwan, but it couldn't hold out against four determined air sanders. Six days after we started, Quetzal 's deck was clean. We didn't rest on the seventh day; we celebrated at the tiki bar down the road, a questionable call as the next morning proved.
Quetzal 's deck is a composite construction with Airex foam coring. The top layer of fiberglass is ½-inch thick; the Airex is about 1¼ inches; and the bottom layer of fiberglass is ¼ inch, making for a very stiff deck. A key attribute of Airex is that it resists water, and a close inspection and some heavy-footed stomping about the teakless deck revealed no obvious delamination. The next step was to fill all the screw holes using West System epoxy filler. Yard manager Don Reimers then suggested adding a layer of fiberglass to ensure a watertight deck. Don, who has also crossed the Atlantic aboard Quetzal , joked, "I don't want to be leaked on again on my next crossing."
While the yard crew worked on the deck, a new team of volunteers — Bob Pingel, Dan Stillwell and Earl Bennett — arrived to relieve Alan and Bruce, while Ron soldiered on for a second week. With the mast in a rare horizontal plane, we seized the opportunity to replace the standing rigging, add a new wind transducer and pull fresh wires through the spar. We also serviced the winches. In typical Quetzal fashion, a full-blown refit was sandwiched into the deck project.
When the new layer of fiberglass cured, the decks were primed with Awlgrip. It would have made sense to finish painting before reinstalling the deck fittings, but my tight schedule dictated otherwise. Every fitting would have to be taped before the final three coats of Awlgrip were applied. Another friend and Atlantic-crossing shipmate, Danny Peter, flew in to lend a hand. The two of us bed and remounted every piece of hardware, including new stanchions and mast rails, using a case of 3M 4200 and squeezing into tight corners below to wrestle a wrench onto wayward nuts.
Eighteen days after we started, I flew to France to captain a canal-boat trip, and returned a week later. I had four days before I was scheduled to set sail on a training passage to Nova Scotia.
To my surprise, Don had not only finished spraying the deck while I was away, he also sprayed the topsides. Quetzal looked stunning, at least 20 years younger. My sister and her son, Will, had cleaned the disaster below, vacuuming out bags of dust and grime. In short order, the mast was stepped, the rigging tuned, the cushions, cutlery, tools, books, charts and everything else was carried back aboard and hastily stowed.
I was still working when my new crew turned up, and after I introduced myself, they promptly went to work, schlepping provisions aboard. Thirty days after the project began, we pushed off the dock and headed north. It’s amazing what you can do with a lot of help from your friends.
- More: DIY , DIY Sailboat Projects , How To , teak
- More How To
Surviving the Storm: A Sailor’s Tale of Hurricane Lee
Best Practices for Boat-Show Shopping
Grease the Wheels of Your Boat: A Guide to Proper Lubrication
A Bowsprit Reborn: A DIY Renovation Story
Sailboat Review: Dufour 41
Storm-Tossed, Lobster-Blessed: A Culinary Cruising Tale
Minimalist Cruising: Georgian Bay by Dinghy
- Digital Edition
- Customer Service
- Privacy Policy
- Terms of Use
- Email Newsletters
- Cruising World
- Sailing World
- Salt Water Sportsman
- Sport Fishing
- Wakeboarding
Teak Decking Repair and Replacement
Teak decking.
Need new teak decking, a repair or complete restoration? Look no further. With decades of experience working on teak decks, we have the specialist skills required to produce long-lasting beautiful decks that will withstand the test of time whether you are racing, ocean sailing or day cruising. We source the best quality teak possible from sustainable forests.
We also fit Flexiteek decks. Flexiteek is a synthetic alternative to real wood teak decking. Made from 2G polymer pellets, it is manufactured into planks, sanded to bring out the grain and then vinyl welded together to create a strong and durable bond. The result is a very realistic-looking substitute that is long-lasting, weather-resistant and low maintenance.
Benefits of Teak
- Long lasting durability
- Incredible resistance to all kinds of weather
- No rotting or decay
- Ability to fair panels for a perfect fit
- Good non-skid properties
- Stays cooler in warm climates
- Provides extra insulation
Flexiteek is a synthetic alternative to real wood teak decking. Made from 2G polymer pellets, it is manufactured into planks, sanded to bring out the grain and then vinyl welded together to create a strong and durable bond. The result is a very realistic-looking substitute that is long-lasting, weather-resistant and low maintenance.
Benefits of Flexiteek
- Looks like real teak
- Long lasting (10 year guarantee)
- UV resistant
- Slip resistant
- Low maintenance
- Easy to clean
- Over 30 colour combinations
- Lighter than rival synthetic decking
- Bespoke options including embedded logo / boat name
Case Study: Swan 56
When the very successful and well renowned Swan 56 cruiser-racing yacht ‘Noonmark VI’ came to Ancasta Yacht Services wanting a complete teak deck replacement, our experienced team of skilled craftsmen took on the project with pride.
With a teak deck dating back to 1998, ‘Noonmark VI’s’ deck had fared exceptionally well, but due to her busy schedule of yacht races worldwide, the deck was becoming worn and needed a modern replacement.
The boat captain requested the best quartersawn A class Burmese teak decking, also known as superyacht teak in marine industry circles. Many different kinds of wood are available to suit various applications and budgets, such as Iroko, vinyl, teak faced plywood and plastic imitations, but only the best would do for this beautiful racing yacht.
Why use Ancasta Yacht Services?
Undercover workshops.
We have three sizeable bays in our huge sheds in the Hamble Yacht Services boatyard. This allows us to keep your yacht undercover when the deck is being repaired or replaced, giving you significant cost savings by eliminating the need for a full shrink-wrapped tent outside (and reducing unnecessary plastic use) and avoiding unnecessary delays caused by the weather. We can build staging around the boat inside our sheds to provide easy access to the decks if required.
Modern Teak Laying
Modern teak deck layouts tend to have fewer joins than older ones, meaning our teak and joinery team can lay up custom built teak panels to reduce time and therefore cost.
Making templates of the deck areas out of 6mm MDF, the teak is then laid out and caulked together in the workshop before the panel is glued onto the deck in one piece. This process is much quicker than conventional methods and produces a neater finish due to increased control and better working conditions - it is much easier to lay the planks and margins on a workshop table than on the yacht itself.
The side deck panels, however, are laid directly onto the deck using pre-rebated strips of teak which are pulled into the sheer of the yacht using special clamps. It is also possible to apply teak without the rebate and with full depth seams.
Precision Teak Fitting
The biggest challenge for the team when laying a new teak deck is making sure that the teak looks symmetrical. The very nature of boats means that their decks are never 100% symmetrical, especially when there are hatches and deck fittings to work around. So, we take care to lay the panels with the utmost precision. This sometimes means shaving just 1mm off each piece of wood to reduce a margin across the whole width of the panel to make sure it matches on both sides of the yacht. Care is also taken to ensure that placement of the snape joins are uniform and follow the natural flow of the deck. Butt joins are hidden under deck fittings where possible, and long planks are used to reduce the number of joins on show.
The Finishing Touch
Once the teak panels are complete, they are fixed in place using sikaflex 298 bedding compound and vacuum bagged down to create a secure bond. The use of sikaflex instead of epoxy allows the decking to breathe and flex with the boat and helps avoid any spill damage to other parts of the yacht. The deck is then left for two weeks to cure before the team sands it back to 80 grade grit with orbital sanders and the deck fittings refitted.
Skilled Joiners
Adam Symes is the Ancasta Yacht Services Boat Building Team Leader. Adam has boatbuilding in his blood with his father a cabinet maker, his uncle a boatbuilder, his grandfather a steelworker on ships and his brother working alongside him at AYS too. Living by the sea, Adam tells us that working on boats was the most natural thing for him to do, and he is proud to continue his family trade. Mentored by Pete Burnard, a well-regarded shipwright, Adam has learnt his skills from the best and has laid teak decks for over 18 years. Adam is backed up by a large team of skilled boat builders and joiners who take pride in their craft and work hard to produce first-class results.
Share this story
Ancasta yacht services ltd.
Port Hamble, Satchell Lane, Hamble, Southampton, SO31 4NN
The Port Hamble AYS Office with stunning views overlooks the River Hamble. This is a prime location in the beautiful breathing space between the cities of Southampton, Winchester and Portsmouth.
Ancasta Yacht Services:
T: +44 (0)2380 454 111
E: [email protected]
Enquiry form
Ancasta Yacht Services Enquiry Form
Lost Password?
Don't have an account? Register
Privacy Overview
| Cookie | Duration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| cookielawinfo-checkbox-advertisement | 1 year | The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Advertisement". |
| cookielawinfo-checkbox-analytics | 11 months | This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". |
| cookielawinfo-checkbox-functional | 11 months | The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". |
| cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary | 11 months | This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". |
| cookielawinfo-checkbox-others | 11 months | This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. |
| cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance | 11 months | This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". |
| PHPSESSID | This cookie is native to PHP applications. The cookie is used to store and identify a users' unique session ID for the purpose of managing user session on the website. The cookie is a session cookies and is deleted when all the browser windows are closed. | |
| TiPMix | This cookie is set by the provider Azure. This cookie is used for routing traffic. | |
| viewed_cookie_policy | 11 months | The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data. |
| x-ms-routing-name | This cookie is set by the provider Azure. This cookie is used for routing production traffic. | |
| XSRF-TOKEN | 2 hours | The cookie is set by Wix website building platform on Wix website. The cookie is used for security purposes. |
| Cookie | Duration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| __atuvc | 1 year 1 month | This cookie is set by Addthis to make sure you see the updated count if you share a page and return to it before our share count cache is updated. |
| __atuvs | 30 minutes | This cookie is set by Addthis to make sure you see the updated count if you share a page and return to it before our share count cache is updated. |
| sc_anonymous_id | never | The cookie is set by SoundCloud and is used to enable SoundCloud player. |
| Cookie | Duration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| _gat | 1 minute | This cookies is installed by Google Universal Analytics to throttle the request rate to limit the colllection of data on high traffic sites. |
| Cookie | Duration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| _ga | 2 years | This cookie is installed by Google Analytics. The cookie is used to calculate visitor, session, campaign data and keep track of site usage for the site's analytics report. The cookies store information anonymously and assign a randomly generated number to identify unique visitors. |
| _gid | 1 day | This cookie is installed by Google Analytics. The cookie is used to store information of how visitors use a website and helps in creating an analytics report of how the website is doing. The data collected including the number visitors, the source where they have come from, and the pages visted in an anonymous form. |
| CONSENT | 16 years 5 months 15 days 12 hours 20 minutes | These cookies are set via embedded youtube-videos. They register anonymous statistical data on for example how many times the video is displayed and what settings are used for playback.No sensitive data is collected unless you log in to your google account, in that case your choices are linked with your account, for example if you click “like” on a video. |
| iutk | 5 months 27 days | This cookie is used by Issuu analytic system. The cookies is used to gather information regarding visitor activity on Issuu products. |
| mf_user | 3 months | This cookie is used to identify whether the user is new to the website or a revisitor. |
| uvc | 1 year 1 month | The cookie is set by addthis.com to determine the usage of Addthis.com service. |
| vuid | 2 years | This domain of this cookie is owned by Vimeo. This cookie is used by vimeo to collect tracking information. It sets a unique ID to embed videos to the website. |
| Cookie | Duration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| _fbp | 3 months | This cookie is set by Facebook to deliver advertisement when they are on Facebook or a digital platform powered by Facebook advertising after visiting this website. |
| B | 1 year | This Cookie is used by Yahoo to provide ads, contents or analytics. |
| fr | 3 months | The cookie is set by Facebook to show relevant advertisments to the users and measure and improve the advertisements. The cookie also tracks the behavior of the user across the web on sites that have Facebook pixel or Facebook social plugin. |
| IDE | 1 year 24 days | Used by Google DoubleClick and stores information about how the user uses the website and any other advertisement before visiting the website. This is used to present users with ads that are relevant to them according to the user profile. |
| loc | 1 year 1 month | This cookie is set by Addthis. This is a geolocation cookie to understand where the users sharing the information are located. |
| mc | 1 year 1 month | This cookie is associated with Quantserve to track anonymously how a user interact with the website. |
| test_cookie | 15 minutes | This cookie is set by doubleclick.net. The purpose of the cookie is to determine if the user's browser supports cookies. |
| VISITOR_INFO1_LIVE | 5 months 27 days | This cookie is set by Youtube. Used to track the information of the embedded YouTube videos on a website. |
| YSC | session | This cookies is set by Youtube and is used to track the views of embedded videos. |
| Cookie | Duration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| _beneteau_country | No description | |
| _beneteau_language | No description | |
| 509614c025834a0fc96f65cdb58302d2 | No description | |
| A3 | 1 year | No description |
| ASPSESSIONIDSEBCADTA | No description | |
| at-rand | never | No description available. |
| b32dac39533fd4135f06a1ccf0731ea8 | No description | |
| Comm_id | 1 year | No description |
| EComm_id | 1 year | No description |
| gylf_session | 2 hours | No description |
| LangConsult | 1 year | No description |
| mf_afca4098-3f25-4574-8ec6-42e696bf7b94 | session | No description |
| R7SESSION | No description | |
| recent_boats | 1 month | No description |
| sessiontoken | No description available. | |
| SID | No description | |
| sm_sessionId | No description | |
| viewer | never | No description available. |
| xtc | 1 year 1 month | No description |
| yt-remote-connected-devices | never | No description available. |
| yt-remote-device-id | never | No description available. |
Practical Boat Owner
- Digital edition
The truth about teak decks
- Ben Meakins
- March 1, 2016
Shipwright Robin Benjamin says modern, thin teak decks need lots of regular care, and so it’s vital to follow his advice on how to keep them looking good
In the last 15 years I have worked on more teak decks than I care to remember, writes Robin Benjamin : I think I’ve seen every problem that exists. What you have to know straight away is that, like anything, teak decks need looking after. If you take care of your decks they may last 20 years or more, if you don’t you’ll be appalled at how awful they look after only five. Because solid teak decks have been the norm for hundreds of years they have understandably earned a serious reputation for longevity. Today’s teak decks are not the same thing at all.
In many cases modern teak decks are little more than a quick way for the manufacturer to up the ‘class’ of their product. Many are poorly fitted, the wood is too thin and the caulking gap too narrow. Because of the minimal amount of wood involved the best plug on the deck might only be 3mm deep. Likewise, the caulking, unless of adequate depth and width, will not remain glued as the wood moves. However, all these problems would amount to little if folk took care of their teak decks. The most important advice is to wash the deck every week but few people can spare the time. It’s quite simple however: if you don’t wash your deck regularly it will soon go grey and dirty.
Don’t scrub
This is how worn teak decks can become after only five years of regular scrubbing and sanding
I’ve seen it done: the owner is standing there, his trouser legs rolled up, his knees red. True, his deck looks great… from the pontoon. But if you look carefully you’ll see grooves in the planks where the softer areas of grain have simply vanished. This is how it starts. Consider that you began with a lovely smooth surface, like a CD for example. After scrubbing it looks more like an LP record, but worse, much worse. Imagine now how quickly the ‘peaks’ will wear down as you walk on them. Of course it doesn’t end here, this is only the beginning. To keep your deck clean there is only one way, and that is a gentle wash with nothing more violent than a light detergent and a large sponge or very soft brush. If you do this regularly you will not wear down the teak, but you will wash off the dirt before it gets ingrained. Dirt contributes to the wear of a teak deck. If this approach doesn’t work then you can try oxalic acid. Dissolve some crystals in warm water, do not breathe the vapours and make sure you wear gloves. It burns. Rinse well. Oxalic acid should not harm anything on the boat except your skin. There are plenty of products that do the same thing but cost a lot more. If acid doesn’t bring back the colour then there’s only one thing left to do if you want a lovely looking teak deck, and that is to sand it. But if you want my advice: continue to wash it carefully and often, with soap, and live with the deck not looking its best. For some reason no one listens to me. I gladly advise people on how to look after their decks for free, even if it means I don’t get any work. It’s better for everyone, except me, that you take my advice. Yet despite this I still see people scrubbing their teak. I shake my head in wonder. Did I not explain what would happen if they scrubbed? ‘But it looks so great!’ they say. ‘So what’s the problem?’ The problem is that the next time they see their decks they will look grey and dirty again. The only difference will be that there is less teak than there was before. If your feet don’t wear down the peaks then they’ll fill up with dirt, making it look even worse. There’s only one way to get it out – more scrubbing. This time you’ll have to scrub harder to see a result. Can you see what’s happening? There will come a point soon when you decide the decks are looking pretty rough and need a good sanding.
Sand me timbers!
New decks get sanded to make everything look nice and flush – but it’s not a good idea to repeat this too often
Boatyards are very keen to do this work for you and why not? Next time you see the boat it will look great and they know you’ll be back, because soon the caulking will start to roll out in long spaghetti-like strips and the plugs will fall out, exposing the screws and making water ingress all the more likely. Now you’ve really got a problem. The plugs are not too much trouble but there will be hundreds to do. The real problem is the caulking. Just because some of it comes out really easily does not mean that it will all be like that. No, some of it will be sticking just like the manufacturer intended. You can make a special scraper to remove it but inevitably you will slip, damage areas and, even worse, you will enlarge the groove. If you’re really lucky you might be able to use a router for about 35% of the deck, but routers are vicious and it’s all too easy to make a mistake. Even a small enlargement of the slot will look terrible. Not only that but you’ll need a curved guide to run the router along for each slot. This takes ages. Bad enough if you’re doing it yourself, but it’s unbelievable if you’re paying a yard. Specialist tools exist but they are hideously expensive and it’s only the specialist yards that are likely to have them. Unfortunately the yard will be charging by the hour and there’s always a lot of work on any teak deck. So what are the options now that your deck is worn out? You can’t just remove it, because underneath it will be horrid. If it was laid properly in the first place they will have keyed in the glued surface and that means taking to it with a grinder on a plastic boat. And you’ll still have to cover the decks to hide the mess. So I hope you can see that I’m advocating care and prevention for your lovely teak deck. To just leave it uncared for is an outrageous waste of a precious resource. If that isn’t enough to make you care for your deck, then consider the cost of replacement. Teak costs approximately £3,000 a cubic metre. But you’ll need a lot more than you think, because just cutting down a big plank to size wastes a hideous amount of wood. The cost of the teak is a large part of the final bill. Basically you can quadruple the price of the teak to take into account the cost of first measuring and photographing the original deck to ensure everything fits properly, the cleaning up of the surface underneath and finally replacing the wood. To do the job properly you may have to remove the chain plates and that means dropping the mast and completely readjusting it afterwards. Not only that, but all those deck fittings that haven’t been touched for years will need to be removed. And don’t be surprised if many of the bolts are hell to get out or break in the process. It’s possible that some of the bolts were made specially or have been glassed over. You’ll need somewhere to do all this. Perhaps it’s possible to make a good cover but even this adds to the cost. The alternative is to put the boat in a shed somewhere. Anything is possible but it always costs. Replacing a teak deck is a massive job. To replace the decks on a 9m (30ft) boat is six weeks’ work – three months for a 15m (50-footer). We are talking about many thousands of pounds and your boat out of action for a while. There are other considerations before you decide on a teak deck. They weigh more: the caulking is surprisingly heavy, not to mention the wood and the thousands of screws. Perhaps what worries me most about laid decks on glassfibre boats is that you have to make thousands of holes in an otherwise perfectly waterproof surface to hold the deck down. Many fibreglass boats’ decks are balsa cored, that is to say, the deck is made of two layers of fibreglass with a layer of balsa wood in between. Balsa wood will not last long if it gets wet, yet this strikes me as very likely. The law of averages suggests that if you make 2,000 holes in a deck the chances of them all staying waterproof for years on end is pretty slim. What happens when the balsa has rotted away? I just don’t think making thousands of holes in a deck is wise. It is possible to lay a teak deck without screws, but it takes longer and therefore costs more.
So let’s sum up and cover up On the one hand I am thankful for owners and teak decks since they allow me the life I lead, but on the other I am very sad at the waste of it all. People could save themselves a lot of time, inconvenience and money if they just took care of their decks. And for some reason no one wants to spend money on ‘posh’ covers to protect their boat. Covers are initially expensive but they will repay their cost several times over. Not only will you not be required to replace your decks but you’ll be able to sell your boat for more because it has obviously been well looked after. It’s not just teak decks that will benefit from protection – plastic windows, instruments and gel coat will all last longer if kept out of the sun, wind and rain. The Grand Canyon was created by erosion from the elements. When you think like that, surely you can understand why I recommend covering up. I can only do my bit. I can’t change the world and I can’t change fashion, but I hope I can slow down the damage by telling the truth. So now you know. And remember: don’t scrub!
The good, the bad and the ugly
With decking that is very thin, the plugs over the fastenings are even thinner and can lift if the glue fails
This plug seems to have a problem. It could be loose and holding moisture, or the fastening is corroding
s Covers over vulnerable varnished work make sense, but a complete cover will also protect the deck
s Stains from oil and ferrous metal can be very awkward to remove from teak – try oxalic acid
Even old-style decks can have their problems. Here, to avoid butt joints, the planks had been scarfed together and, after many years, the feathered edge started to lift. The owner simply fixed it with epoxy
This thin timber decking has lost its caulking compound and the corner is starting to deteriorate
Tips for keeping teak in top condition
- Wash gently once a week
- Use a light detergent and soft sponge or very soft brush
- Tackle tough stains with oxalic acid solution
- Fit a cover over the whole deck
- Repair loose caulk and plugs promptly
- Scrub with a hard brush
- Leave decks to get really dirty
- Sand except as a last resort
This article was originally published in the June 2007 issue of PBO.
10 Teak Cleaners tested
We get scrubbing to find out what effect a variety of teak cleaners have on the woodwork of a Sigma…
Masking up teak decks
get the tape that sticks...
Cutting expensive teak-faced ply
How to get a neat edge
9 tips for using sealant
Premium bonding: some techniques for getting the most out of sealant without ending up covered in the sticky stuff!
How to stop a swing keel leak
John Taylor finds a car steering rack gaiter stops leaks from the lifting cable of his swing keel
Winterising a boat: 61 point checklist
PBO experts offer their top tips for winterising a boat, helping to keep your vessel and gear in good condition…
The great UK antifouling test for cruising yachts
20 antifouling paints tested in 13 UK locations: which works best where you keep your boat?
- New Sailboats
- Sailboats 21-30ft
- Sailboats 31-35ft
- Sailboats 36-40ft
- Sailboats Over 40ft
- Sailboats Under 21feet
- used_sailboats
- Apps and Computer Programs
- Communications
- Fishfinders
- Handheld Electronics
- Plotters MFDS Rradar
- Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
- Anchoring Mooring
- Running Rigging
- Sails Canvas
- Standing Rigging
- Diesel Engines
- Off Grid Energy
- Cleaning Waxing
- DIY Projects
- Repair, Tools & Materials
- Spare Parts
- Tools & Gadgets
- Cabin Comfort
- Ventilation
- Footwear Apparel
- Foul Weather Gear
- Mailport & PS Advisor
- Inside Practical Sailor Blog
- Activate My Web Access
- Reset Password
- Customer Service
- Free Newsletter
Dufour 44 Used Boat Review
Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review
Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up
Ericson 41 Used Boat Review
How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup
Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW
Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions
Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors
Solving the Dodger Dilemma
Polyester vs. Nylon Rode
Getting the Most Out of Older Sails
How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock
Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair
Ensuring Safe Shorepower
Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box
Why Choose the Wharram Design?
Winterizing: Make It Easy With Checklists
Boat Improvements for the Technically Illiterate
What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?
Stopping Holding-tank Odors
Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye
Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor
The Rain Catcher’s Guide
Sailing Gear for Kids
What’s the Best Sunscreen?
UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?
Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing
R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage
On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…
On Watch: America’s Cup
On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing
Dear Readers
- Boat Maintenance
- Sailboat Reviews
How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats
Probably nothing can make or break the appearance of a fiberglass boat more quickly than the appearance of the exterior teak trim. Contrary to popular belief, teak is not a maintenance-free wood that can be safely ignored and neglected for years at a time. Though teak may not rot, it can check, warp, and look depressingly drab if not properly cared for.
Although it is not immune to neglect, teak is incredibly resilient, and can be brought back to life after remarkable amounts of abuse. Therefore, there is no excuse for drab, ugly exterior teak on any boat.
Unlike other woods used for exterior trim, the grey weathering of teak rarely extends very far below the surface of the wood. Instead of the tedious scraping and sanding essential to restore the weathered surface of, for example, mahogany, a fairly simple chemical cleaning usually suffices to bring even the worst of grungy teak back to a semblance of its original glory.
However, chemical cleaning can be pretty tough on the wood. Most chemical cleaners rely on a caustic and/or an acid to clean and bleach the surface of the wood. Inevitably, these powerful cleaners gradually erode the surface, softening the pithy portions of the grain and leaving raised ridges along the tougher growth rings of the wood.
Chemical cleaners can, however, almost miraculously clean weathered teak. The four-color brochures published by teak care product companies do not exaggerate when they show bright tan teak next to grey ugly teak, claiming that only a few minutes work will transform the dirty to the clean.
For best results, however, you should never let your teak trim get to the point that such drastic measures are called for: and once you get it back to like new condition, you should be prepared to put in the time and effort required to keep it in that condition.
Cleaning Teak on Boats
If your teak is dark brown from old, oxidized dressing, or weathered grey from neglect, the first step is a thorough cleaning.
The severity of the discoloration of the wood will determine the severity of restorative measures required. Because cleaners containing acids and caustic are hard on the wood, you should try to use as mild a cleaner as will do the job, even though it may take some experimentation and a few false starts to come up with the right combination of ingredients.
The mildest teak cleaner is a general purpose household powdered cleaner such as Spic n Span . A concentrated solution of powdered cleaner and vigorous scrubbing using a very soft bristle brush or, better yet, a 3M pad, will do a surprisingly good job on teak that is basically just dirty. Don’t scrub any harder than you have to, and always scrub across the grain. Every time you scrub the teak, you are removing softer wood, which eventually results in an uneven surface that raises the grain. Regularly using a firm brush to scrub with the grain will lead to problems down the road.
The advantage of a gentle scrub using mild cleaners is that while it is more work for you, it is by far the most gentle for your teak. Since you are likely to have some powdered detergent around, always try this method before going on to more drastic measures.
Simply wet down an area with water, clean with the detergent solution, rinse with fresh water, and let it dry. If the wood comes out a nice, even light tan, youre in luck. If its still mottled or grey, a more powerful cleaner is called for.
The next step is a one part cleaner specifically designed for teak, or the equivalent. These can be either powdered or liquid. Most consist of an abrasive and a mild acid, such as phosphoric acid or oxalic acid. They are more effective in lightening a surface than a simple detergent scrub. Many household cleaners like Barkeeper’s Friend contain oxalic acid.
If the cleaner contains acid, however, some care in handling must be taken. It is advisable to wear rubber gloves and eye protection using any cleaner containing even a mild acid.
The cleaning procedure with most one-part cleaners is the same: wet the teak down, sprinkle or brush on the cleaner, scrub down, and rinse off. Be sure to rinse well.
Even badly weathered teak should come up reasonably well with a one part cleaner. When the wood dries, it should be a uniform light tan. If some areas are still grey, a repeat cleaning should do the job. If, however, the teak is still mottled or discolored, the time has come to bring out the heavy guns, and with them the heavy precautions.
The two part liquid cleaners are, with only a few exceptions, powerful caustics and acids which do an incredible job of cleaning and brightening teak, but require care in handling to avoid damage to surrounding surfaces, not to mention your own skin.
While the instructions on all two-part cleaners are explicit, a reiteration of the warnings on the labels is useful.
Adjacent surfaces, whether gelcoat, paint, or varnish, must not be contaminated by the cleaners, most of which can bleach gelcoat or paint, or soften varnish. Constant flushing of adjoining surfaces with water while cleaning is usually adequate, but masking off of freshly painted or varnished surfaces may be more effective.
Hand protection, in the form of rubber gloves, is absolutely essential. In addition, do not use these cleaners while barefooted, and preferably not while wearing shorts. Eye protection is also a good idea. The chemical burns which can result from some cleaners can be disfiguring and painful. If the product label has the key words caustic, corrosive, or acid, wear protection and avoid splashing!
There is slight variation in the instructions for the various two-part cleaners, but the general principles are the same:
1. Wet the teak down;
2. Apply part one (the caustic), spreading and lightly scrubbing with a bristle brush;
3. When the surface is a uniform wet, muddy brown, apply the second part (the acid), spreading with a clean bristle brush;
4. Apply and spread enough of the acid to turn the teak a uniform tan;
5. Rinse thoroughly, and allow to dry completely.
It is fairly common to use almost twice as much of the second liquid (the acid) as the first, in order to get uniform light color. For this reason, its a good idea to buy an additional bottle of the second solution, when it is available. Despite the fact that most manufacturers package two-part cleaners in kits of two equal-sized bottles, they usually make additional bottles of the second part available.
Unless the instructions require it, do not rinse off the muddy brown surface of the teak after it has been treated with the caustic. You will be washing unneutralized, corrosive liquid all over the rest of your boat. Thorough neutralizing with the acid wash will minimize problems.
Surface Preparation for Finishing
A freshly cleaned teak surface is a joy to behold, but it wont stay fresh, clean, and light for long if you don’t take care of it. In fact, the surface will begin to oxidise instantly as it dries. The sooner you complete treatment after cleaning, the better.
Teak, like many woods, has grain which varies a great deal in hardness, even within the same piece of wood. Over time, even a simple scrubbing with detergent will wear away the softer portions of grain, leaving ridges of harder grain. The irregularity of such a surface merely accelerates the rate at which it gets dirty again.
Before getting out the sander to smooth out the grain, however, look at both the function and construction of the wood youre dealing with.
If the teak surface youve cleaned is teak-faced plywood, theres a good chance that a thorough sanding to smooth the surface will go right through the layer of veneer, effectively ruining the piece. On the typical fiberglass sailboat, veneered or plywood components include conpanionway drop boards, hatch tops, and sometimes cockpit seats and soles. Before sanding any of the parts, examine them carefully to see if they are solid lumber or veneer. Since exposed edges of plywood are sometimes covered with veneer strips to make them look like solid lumber, you must look pretty closely.
Although decks are usually solid lumber, they also can present problems. If the decking is much less than 1/2″ thick, and has plugged (bunged) fastenings, sanding out the grain ridges may sand away enough material to sand through or loosen the bungs, exposing the fastenings.
Even when bungs are set in epoxy, they require a counterbore at least l/8″ deep to hold them in place.
Even if the grain is quite pronounced on laid teak decks, you may be better off living with a cleaned irregular surface than opening Pandoras box by trying to create a perfectly smooth surface.
On other solid teak items such as handrails, toerails, and Dorade boxes, thorough sanding of the chemically cleaned surface before treating with a sealer will result in a much more attractive surface.
Do not, as we have seen many times, attempt to restore badly weathered and grey teak by sanding before chemical cleaning. Chances are that you will quickly discover that a discouraging amount of sanding is involved, and you will end up using a chemical cleaner in any case. Sanding both before and after treatment is a waste of effort, and is likely to remove more wood than is necessary. On teak with pronounced surface irregularities, it could take forever to sand them out to get a uniform surface color, while chemical cleaning will quickly lighten even the deepest gouges or grain defects.
Wait until the cleaned teak is thoroughly dry before sanding or applying teak dressing.
Sanding of cleaned teak is not always required, particularly if the surface is to be treated with an oil-type dressing rather than a gloss finish such as varnish. Surface irregularities show far less with the matte finish of teak oils.
Granted, perfectly smooth teak is likely to be more even in color, and some esthetic sensibilities are offended by a surface showing pronounced grain pattern. From a simply functional point of view, however, irregularities are unimportant except in terms of simplified cleaning in the future.
Unless you intend to put in the effort required to maintain your teak between major cleanings, sanding the teak smooth is a waste of time. The next chemical cleaning will simply repeat the grain-raising cycle, requiring another sanding.
If you swear youre going to keep the teak up, however, a good sanding will enhance the woods appearance.
The safest tool for general sanding is a high speed orbital sander such as the Makita B04510. If you use successively finer grades of aluminum oxide sandpaper, and don’t slow the machine down by applying pressure, it will leave a smooth, relatively swirl-free surface suitable for finishing with a teak dressing.
Inexpensive, heavy, slow-speed orbital sanders should be avoided. They leave telltale swirl marks on the surface which are accentuated by the application of finish, and their sanding is generally too slow.
Never use a disc sander on a surface to be finished bright (oiled or varnished), unless you are one of the few experts who really know how to handle this potentially destructive tool.
The same goes for the belt sander. It is perhaps the most efficient tool for smoothing large, flat surfaces, but is capable of doing heartrending and irreversible damage in the hands of the inexperienced. For decks and hatches of solid lumber, the belt sander is the answer – but only if you are thoroughly experienced with the tool, and only with a heavy duty machine that has a large sanding surface.
When power sanding, always mask off adjacent areas of gelcoat. Even lightly touching a polished gelcoat surface with a sander will damage it. The same rule applies for hand sanding.
Remove masking tape immediately when sanding is completed. Even leaving the tape on overnight on an exterior surface is likely to make it difficult to remove. Tape adhesive residue can be removed with a mild solvent, such as alcohol, and gentle rubbing with a coarse cloth, such as a piece of toweling.
After sanding, remove sanding dust from all surfaces with a vacuum cleaner. If electricity is not available, sweep thoroughly with a dusting brush or a large paintbrush which will no longer be suitable for painting because it is full of sanding dust. Obviously, you don’t sacrifice your best badger hair brush for this. The cheapest bristle brush will do fine.
Applying a Finish to the Teak
The final step in rejuvenating an exterior teak surface is the application of a dressing or sealer to retain for as long as possible the appearance of the freshly prepared wood.
Our own preference is a dressing which does not darken the wood. For our top-recommended sealer check out the six-month results of our ongoing test of wood finishes . For really durable finishes on teak trim, or caprails, there are a variety of options. Search under wood finish, or teak treatments to turn up our most recent wood finish test results . This article on varnishing also has some good tips.
The choice of a teak dressing is, however, as much a matter of esthetics as function. Look around at the boats whose exterior teak looks best to you, and query the owners about the products they use.
A major caveat is in order. No exterior teak finish lasts very long. For optimum results, monthly application of dressing is required, with a good scrubbing with detergent and water before applying a fresh coat. Youre kidding yourself if you think a once-a-year treatment will keep your teak looking good.
Do not attempt to use household-type furniture oils for exterior teak. They will not stand up to the weather.
Whatever teak dressing you use, be neat in applying it. Slopped-about teak dressing may not show when it first gets on fiberglass, but it inevitably darkens with age, leaving stains that look just as bad as varnish spills, and are just about as hard to remove. Clean up spills and overruns immediately with a rag dipped in mineral spirits unless another solvent is specified by the manufacturer of the dressing.
Masking tape is not particularly effective in protecting surfaces from spills of teak dressings, as the viscosity of most dressings is so low that they simply bleed under the edge of the tape. The answer is careful application, and careful cleanup.
Maintaining Your Teak
Your job isn’t over when the last coat of dressing is applied. To look its best, exterior teak needs frequent attention. With a boat used in salt water, frequent washdowns with fresh water will prolong the life of the dressing, but scrubbings with salt water and a brush will reduce it.
Horizontal surfaces, such as hatch covers, will require more frequent coats of sealer than vertical surfaces, such as companionway dropboards. High traffic areas like a teak cockpit sole will require the most attention of all, but are the easiest to scrub and retreat, since sanding is not usually desirable.
If all this sounds like a lot of work, thats because it is. That explains why the exterior teak on so many boats looks so grubby.
It is still, however, less work than maintaining a varnished exterior teak surface – a lot less. If you really think you want varnished teak, try maintaining a clean oiled surface for a season first.
Few things look better on a boat, particularly a white on white fiberglass boat, than well-maintained exterior teak trim. An owner who neglects exterior wood is likely to be the same owner who rarely changes the oil in the engine, and who rarely bothers to put on the sail covers after a days sail when he expects hes going sailing again tomorrow.
Owning a boat isn’t all play. A boat is a major investment, and like most investments, the more attention you pay to it, the more it will return. The time you put into maintaining your exterior teak is well invested. The return is not only pride of ownership, but dollars in your pocket when the time comes to sell the boat.
RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR
Well written and informative We just bought a 21 ft 1991 celebrity Cuddy and it’s like an antique with beautiful teakwood adorning this old girl! The boat has been well taken care of but teak is teak thanks for the tips Any tips on removing the discoloration on bottom after a few rides in the river I tried washing off but won’t rinse off I guess I waited too long to rinse Is there something you can put on the bottom so that dirt doesn’t stain
Starbrite hull cleaner
What is the caulking between the teak strips (usually black) I would like to replace some that has come out.
Jimbo. There are a few different types, each with their own characteristics. Here is a test that should help you find one that works for you. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/paints/teak-deck-caulks-rated-for-durability-and-resistance-to-chemicals
That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills. Thanks for sharing.
I really enjoy the simple yet concise steps on how to restore teak wood on a boat. As teak wood outdoors is exposed to different pollutants, it can require to keep it well-maintained as long as it is used. Thank you so much this information was certainly helpful
This was certainly the best written and most informative article I have read on the subject. I recently bought a sailboat with poorly maintained exterior teak, and now I have a solid plan going forward. Thanks
Enjoy your boat comments. Would appreciate your best idea for a older boat to be sold. I have a 43’Gulf Star Trawler,well kept,that l would like to sell How would you go about this? Will appreciate your comments.
LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply
Log in to leave a comment
Latest Videos
The Performance Sailboat from Island Packet: Blue Jacket 40 Boat Review
Top 3 Winter Boat HACKS!
Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review
Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie
Latest sailboat review.
- Privacy Policy
- Do Not Sell My Personal Information
- Online Account Activation
- Privacy Manager
+1(619) 232-7900
- Yacht Deck, Teak Decking Experts
When it is time to replace, repair, or build a new deck for your Yacht, Yacht Deck has exactly what you need. Yacht Deck offers only the finest products that range from traditional composite wood decking materials to synthetic Teak decking materials that are environmentally friendly and sustainable. Regardless of whether you choose traditional wood or Flexiteek synthetic wood for your decking material, the products you select from Yacht Deck will make you proud.
Choosing the best material is only part of the job though. You need also to choose the best installation service, and that again, is Yacht Deck. Our installation service team is comprised of highly trained craft masters for both traditional wood decking materials and also for Flexiteek products. Because Yacht Deck understands the process of repairing, replacing and installing yacht decking material, we offer customers a complete package. Our turnkey installation package is 100% complete and includes templating products to your design specifications, fabrication of products to meet your design specifications, and the professional installation of our products.
By offering the best products and the best installation services, Yacht Deck ensures the best quality and finest results for your project. In so doing, we allow you to enjoy the love of boating that only a finely crafted yacht can bring.
Yacht Deck: Offering a complete yacht deck package that includes the best products, installation, and choice in products that range between traditional and green, synthetic material. Yacht Deck’s quality allows you to create the masterpiece you desire.
Recent Posts
- Yacht Deck Announces New Website
- Season’s Greetings From Yacht Deck, Teak Boat Decking Experts
- Yacht Deck, Enjoy the Benefits of Using Flexiteek
Unsurpassed craftsmanship
At Yacht Deck, we have highly trained craftsmen who are skilled in both traditional teak decking as well as a modern Green synthetic teak decking. learn more >>
+1 (619) 232-7900
Information
Affiliations.
- Boat Repair
- Fiberglassing Tools and Supplies
- Woodworking
- Random Posts
- Shop Our Amazon Store For Fiberglass Materials And Supplies!
- Check Out Our Fiberglass Guides Here!
How To Refinish Your Teak Decks
- 0 Shares Share 0
Here I describe the process of extracting the old caulk, adding new caulk and refinishing the deck!
Please ‘Like’ or ‘Share’ above and join the discussion below in our comments section!! Also, please remember that there are extended ad-free versions of these video’s available for Patreon supporters! Please click below to find out more.
Materials, Tools, & Suppliers
- Knives, Scrapers & Extraction Tools
Join the discussion 8 Comments
Good Morning Andy,
That is a great tip with the fine line tape, I had to do my sailboat pilot house deck twice ( poor choice of caulking— silicone) and it was a bitch getting it off the bottom. Thanks for the tip, I will use it on the swim step on the Cruise a Home. I agree sanding the cured caulk is much faster than taping, and I don’t care how careful you are, that goo on the tape gets every were when you pull it.
Thanks Allen
Andy… Just became a Patreon! Question about refinishing my teak deck. Boat is 38 years old, I have a LOT of screws showing, and my teak appears thin. Thinking of extracting the screws — or drilling thru them — and plugging holes with bungs. I just don’t think there’s enough wood left to sink the screws deep enough for the bung to go above them. Any advice?
Hi, Thank you so much for all your time and craftsman ship, teaching and sharing your wisdoms.
I am replacing around a dozen teak planks on my Swan 431, Re- seeming and replacing old plugs in the TEAK Deck
1, How do I go about replacing the curved teak planks? (Do I need to steam, the planks ?).
2, I am in Sthrn California , Do you have any suggestions where I buy and what type /specs of Teak I should be buying for the replacement planks?
3, I am thinking about replacing the most outside plank with a slightly raised teak plank, and then varnishing it . Do you have any thoughts ?
I have been watching your video for a few years now, and your knowledge and craftsmanship have helped me so much.
Also, just wondering why you don’t use the Teak Decking systems “sausage” and the pneumatic gun?
I have been injecting CPES into each slot and let dry then add thin tape proir to fill. Do your think this is a good benefit to holding water out.?
That was beautifully done. Once the sanding was done, did you oil the deck or stain it?
Hi Andy: Are you selling your sanding tool to refinish teak decks? Thanks and great video.
How big a compressor do I need in terms of CFM to spray on All Craft?
Leave a Reply Cancel Reply
Recent videos.
Recent Blog Posts
- There’s been a lot of changes with Boatworks Today over the past year!! November 28, 2022
- Getting your boat ready for Fall? Get a 5% discount on Totalboat products! September 21, 2019
- A New Fiberglass Guide And New Website! October 2, 2017
- Applying Gelcoat, Spray or Brush? November 18, 2013
- What’s been going on?? April 16, 2013
Legal Disclaimer
Because Boatworks Today, its owners or partners cannot control how the information provided through these videos is applied, we will not be held liable for any damages; incidental or consequential.
© 2024 Boatworks Today. | Developed by Fortiris Group LLC
I AM NOW AN ONLINE RETAILER FOR ALEXSEAL OFFERING SALES AND SUPPORT! HTTP://WWW.MILLERBOATWORKS.COM Dismiss
- Boat Accessories
- Where to Buy
Special until September30th: 20% off Git-Rot (all sizes). Use Code SEPT24 at checkout. *restrictions apply
Free ground shipping in the Continental US for any orders over $150!
Teak Deck Maintenance Guide...
Teak deck maintenance guide.
On certain parts of your boat, the more care you take, the more it will repay you. The rewards of your hard work: more luster and shine—and ultimately, more life from your boat. Nowhere is this more true than in dealing with your teak boat decking. Teak, like all woods, originally comes from live plants. Its organic nature means that it’s going to need more attention than metals. The good news here: with a few teak deck maintenance tips and the right tools, you can preserve its original luster over the long-term.
Make sure your teak deck is clean and dry before applying any protective coating.
But one question remains: how do you best prepare your teak for protection like this? You can start with a stainless steel scrubber, like Life Scrub All . Designed specifically to handle teak and other hard woods, this scrubber will help you clear out specific spots that need work, clearing the way for your teak to look its best.
Never use general cleaner on teak.
- Unlike two-part cleaners, this specialized product won’t remove the soft grain from your teak . This helps maintain the appearance and structure of your teak, even with a thorough cleaning.
- Simply cleaning teak with this product will prepare your teak for an oil sealer application , simplifying and making the entire teak restoration process more efficient.
Invest in a quality teak oil, and make it a ritual.
Remembering to oil a teak deck that has been cleaned and dried first —at least 24 hours of drying in advance for best results. Apply the oil with a paint brush and gentle strokes. In all likelihood, you may want to apply multiple thin coats. Teak deck maintenance shouldn’t feel like a chore. Simply follow these basic tips, get equipped with the right products, and you’re sure to enjoy long-lasting, quality teak for years to come.
Share this:
- Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)
- Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
Featured Products
Liquid LifeSeal® Sealant 5.2 fl. oz. Clear
Stainless Steel Cleaner 16 fl. oz.
Related blogs, updated how to use “git”-rot.
**This is an update to a previous post, “How to Use “Git”-Rot””. The presence of wood rot can ruin any […]
Thanksgiving Trivia!
Happy Thanksgiving! Thanksgiving is one of America’s oldest and most loved holidays. Although the story is steeped in a dark […]
Detailing Your Boat
On a warm summer day with the sun shining, there’s no better way to spend your time than by hitting […]
All products proudly made in the usa
954-213-2655 or 954-200-2513
- New Teak Decking
- Composite Decking
- Boat Floor Repair
- Teak Deck Sanding
- Teak Furniture Repair
- Photo Gallery
- Silicone Caulk
Teak Deck Maintenance
Teak is a wonderful and unique type of wood used in many aspects of yacht building, including decks, handrails, ladders, trim and interior floors. The surface of teak wood feels dry, but its oily content repels water, making it ideal for the yachting industry.
Here are some maintenance tips that will keep your teak deck looking great
We recommend rinsing your decks once a week to remove any surface dirt. Use fresh or salt water without cleaners. This will prevent pollution. Generally, your teak decks will require a more thorough cleaning every three months. This should be done using a mild cleaning solution. Make a soap solution 1% soft soap in a bucket of warm water. Take a soft brush and scrub the decks, exerting light pressure on the brush, across the grain of the wood or make rotating movements. This is a good way of removing the contaminants from the deck without causing damage.
We also recommend having your teak decks inspected every 2-3 years. Caulked seams can become worn over time. It is important to replace or repair these worn caulked seams in time to prevent moisture penetrating between or below the teak deck planks.
Another way to maintain the natural look of teak is the application of a sealer. Durability and ease of application have made some sealers very popular. Teak sealers are similar to oils, but contain a higher percentage of solids. Most sealers contain UV protection, which prolongs the the appearance of the teak and the life of the deck. This means sealers build up faster on the wood and generally last longer than oils. Sealers do not feed the wood but, as the name suggests, they seal out moisture and dirt, whilst retaining the natural oils of the wood.
Sealers need an oil-free surface to attach to, so wipe the wood heavily with a rag soaked in acetone to remove all oil from the surface. The oil the wood has absorbed will be unaffected by this quick-flashing solvent. Unless instructions say otherwise, apply sealer using a sponge brush. Wipe away all excess with a cloth. Apply additional coats until the surface has a uniform matte finish. Keep your decks looking their best by washing it and applying a fresh coat of sealer every six months (or as recommended by the product used). Please note, depending upon the brand or tone of sealer used and/or the age and condition of your decks, it may be necessary to apply a fresh coat of sealer as often as every 3 to 3 months. This is however a fairly easy and quick process.
If you have any questions about the information presented here, do not hesitate to contact us.
Boat and Yacht Deck Repair
We are specialize in boat and yacht deck repair . If you are looking for a teak deck but want a product that requires little maintenance? We offer synthetic teak decking options. Synthetic teak decking gives you the look of teak without the hassle. Artificial teak is made of top-quality materials and is naturally protected from the elements. We can customize and design your deck according to your needs and budget. If you are looking for a new deck or just need repairs and maintenance, we have you covered. We have the experience necessary to install a custom deck according to your needs. Does your deck need to be repaired or refurbished? Every now and again your deck may need to be sanded, resealed or caulked to prevent damage or maintain its integrity. We will make sure to remove all uneven spots during the sanding process, caulk all leaky locations and seal for long term use. With our experience we will repair any wood exterior and leave it like new The beauty of teak is in the durability. We can install it anywhere on your boat to add a customized look so you stand out from the crowd. Make your boat something you are proud of and add a teak look to your transom wall, coaming boards, and cover your entire deck. There are many types of decks and boats that need special attention when it comes to installation or repairs. We have over experience to handle every scenario. Let us ensure your deck that is customized to your and your boat’s needs. We take the time necessary to get all the information and update you during the entire process. There is no guess work and everything is considered before we begin. Make your sailboat or yacht’s wood exterior shine brighter than the sunny days ahead of you.
Get A Quote
Choose Service Engine Electric Electronics Antifouling Fiberglass Repair Gelcoat Deck Repair Carpentry Other
Size of Yacht/ Boat
Based in Rhode Island, we offer services for all of your wooden and fiberglass needs.
Custom interior modification, updates, teak deck maintenance, repair, replacement and more. with over 15 years of experience in the yatching industry, we can help solve any problem and make your dream projects a reality., give us a call for a free estimate. 401-867 1269 or [email protected].
[email protected] 401 867-1269
YachtWrx llc
3 Division St
East Greenwich, RI 02818 , United States
|
IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
Learn how one couple decided to refit their teak deck instead of painting it, and how they saved money and labor by doing most of the work themselves. See the steps, challenges, and tips for removing old teak, bonding new teak, and re-installing deck hardware.
A sailor shares his experience of removing and replacing teak decks with fiberglass and nonskid paint. Learn about the challenges, costs and benefits of this project and see photos of the process.
With a teak deck dating back to 1998, 'Noonmark VI's' deck had fared exceptionally well, but due to her busy schedule of yacht races worldwide, the deck was becoming worn and needed a modern replacement. The boat captain requested the best quartersawn A class Burmese teak decking, also known as superyacht teak in marine industry circles.
Learn why teak decks need regular washing, not scrubbing, and how to avoid costly repairs and replacements. Find out the best tips and products from a shipwright with years of experience.
The overview for a project on how to replace and repair the deck of an older boat with a failed teak deck.Subscribe To This Channel!! https://www.youtube.com...
In this video, I'll show you what needs to be repaired on a teak deck, the tools, and supplies necessary to repair it, the step-by-step process, and I'll als...
Learn how to clean and brighten teak trim on fiberglass boats using different types of cleaners, from mild to powerful. Follow the instructions and precautions for each cleaner to avoid damaging the wood or surrounding surfaces.
Subscribe!! https://www.youtube.com/user/boatworkstoday?sub_confirmation=1An overview and step by step of how to refinish / re-seam the teak decks on your bo...
When it is time to replace, repair, or build a new deck for your Yacht, Yacht Deck has exactly what you need. Yacht Deck offers only the finest products that range from traditional composite wood decking materials to synthetic Teak decking materials that are environmentally friendly and sustainable. Regardless of whether you choose traditional wood
Although it's a potentially durable material for marine use, the teak used in decking can quickly deteriorate if not cared for correctly, leaving the owner with a significant bill for repair or replacement. Don't underestimate this; a new teak deck for a 40-foot boat will cost upwards of $30,000 (and it's a bill that all too frequently ...
Boat is 38 years old, I have a LOT of screws showing, and my teak appears thin. Thinking of extracting the screws — or drilling thru them — and plugging holes with bungs. I just don't think there's enough wood left to sink the screws deep enough for the bung to go above them.
Learn about the history, advantages and challenges of teak decks, and how to extend their life with proper care and maintenance. Find out what to do when teak decks fail, and how to choose alternative materials for your boat.
Remembering to oil a teak deck that has been cleaned and dried first —at least 24 hours of drying in advance for best results. Apply the oil with a paint brush and gentle strokes. In all likelihood, you may want to apply multiple thin coats. Teak deck maintenance shouldn't feel like a chore.
For most yacht owners, Teak Deck Maintenance is an important part of their boat's upkeep and appearance. Teak Marine USA. 954-213-2655 or 954-200-2513. Services. New Teak Decking; Composite Decking; Boat Floor Repair; Teak Deck Sanding; Teak Furniture Repair; About Us; Photo Gallery; Marine Products. Epoxy; Silicone Caulk; Resources. Teak ...
The deck of the 35-year-old LM Mermaid 290 was in a similarly desolate state: the joints were brittle and had come away almost everywhere, and the wood was heavily weathered and washed out. The forecastle looked particularly bad. The fish was cracked and individual bars had bulged. Photo: Hauke Schmidt The epoxy filler paste comes in 500 gram ...
We are specialize in boat and yacht deck repair. If you are looking for a teak deck but want a product that requires little maintenance? We offer synthetic teak decking options. Synthetic teak decking gives you the look of teak without the hassle. Artificial teak is made of top-quality materials and is naturally protected from the elements.
Custom interior modification, updates, teak deck maintenance, repair, replacement and more. With over 15 years of experience in the yatching industry, we can help solve any problem and make your dream projects a reality. Give us a call for a free estimate. 401-867 1269 or [email protected].
Maritime Wood Products offers custom teak decks, teak deck panels, and teak deck kits for yacht builders, refit and repair. The teak decks are made from Burma teak planking, caulked with proprietary caulk, and delivered pre-assembled and ready for installation.
Coastal Marine LLC offers a range of services for yacht owners in St. Petersburg, including mechanical, electrical, plumbing, painting, fiberglass, and more. Whether you need a repair, a refit, a haul, or a survey, their team of skilled technicians and craftsmen can help you with your vessel.
The average cost to repair a deck is $2,075, but keep in mind the prices professionals in your area charge could differ. For example, prices often depend on the material (cedar, composite, PVC, pressure-treated, hardwood deck materials, etc.) that is used. The extent of damage also affects the price, with severe mildew damage requiring pressure ...
See more reviews for this business. Top 10 Best Deck Repair in St. Petersburg, FL - September 2024 - Yelp - Mend Proff, Turtle Wood Works, The Clearwater Deck Builders, Collins Construction, Tampa Bay Area Boat Lift Service and Repair, Robert J Rogers General Contractors, Premier Decks, Deck Designers of FL, Outdoor Oasis, Python Fence.
New hydraulic joystick steering to work in conjunction with wheel New 15KW Generator Washer/dryer combo 2 Vacuflush heads and MSD system Boat hauled, zincs changed & bottom painted. Surveyed for soft wood All Stanchions and deck furniture removed, Stanchions powder coated, deck painted, bow chain locker topside teak "breathing" system ...
This past September, he displayed his Octoport outdoor yacht furniture for the first time at the Monaco Yacht Show, advancing the dream he's been working to achieve since he started the company in 2017. From his showroom near the Lürssen shipyard in Bremen, Germany, he brought chairs like the one above, which is part of his new Oyoso collection.
Enjoy handcrafted cocktails and panoramic views at Pier Teaki, a tiki bar on the rooftop of Teak St. Pete. Learn about their service charge model, Teaki Huts, and large event options.