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Sailboat Reviews

Bristol 35.5C

Ted hood knows all there is to know about centerboard cruisers; he applied it well to this boat..

Around Bristol, Rhode Island-made famous by Nathanael G. Herreshoff-they tell this story: In the beginning, Bristol Yachts made rather ordinary boats. Along the way to success, Bristols boss, Clint Pearson, collected some of the most skilled workmen in the business. Somewhere in the 1970s, in order to support about 130 craftsmen, Bristol upgraded sharply and took aim at the big boat, high buck market. It made good sense.

And thats when the centerboard sloop called the Bristol 35.5C was born. She debuted in 1977 and disappeared with the rest of the line a few years ago.

The inestimable Ted Hood designed her. He probably knows more than anyone alive about centerboard cruising boats. Hes done a lot of them.

This one just turned out great, he said. Shes about as small as you can get and still have really big boat appearance and performance. The interior just worked out very well. Hood owned one himself.

She goes right along, doesn’t she? he said.

The Bristol 35.5C, which also came in a full-keel version (without the C), is an extraordinarily orthodox boat. There simply are no extremes in design, construction or performance, unless it is in her ability to flaunt her stern downwind and burn a lot of boats when beating in light to moderate air.

Shes what is called medium displacement. Look at her dimensions. Nothing jumps out, except perhaps for slightly less beam than is seen in 35-footers of that era and certainly far less than is seen in more recent designs.

The Interior Despite the 10′ 10″ beam, the interior reflects Ted Hoods attention to comfortable detail. There simply are no tight spots, no clumsy corners and no head or hip knockers.

You can walk into the head, turn around and even take a shower standing erect, if youre no more than 6′ 2″ in height.

The forward berths are more than adequate. Especially comfortable for one (but tight for two) are the pull-out extension berths in the main cabin. The big quarter berth is for that nose tackle in your racing crew. Luckily, only a few boats were built with pilot berths, because not having them means that the storage space is that much greater. With pilot berths, the boat theoretically sleeps no less than nine, but youd feel like a 49er on a crowded clipper ship headed for the California Gold Rush.

The galley is a joy, with more counter space than many larger boats. Unobstructed, durable flat surfaces are always at a premium when preparing meals or washing dishes. The truly huge ice chest obviously has superior insulation. Even with the engine running the ice lasts well.

The spacious cabin interior is enhanced by a wellengineered fold-down table, which, unlike many, can be rigged in five seconds.

If one were to be picky, the lack of a wet locker aft in a boat of this size might be noted.

Engine access is, at best, mediocre. Its in a narrow compartment, with access in the front only by removing some drawers and the heavy step panel and on the port side through a panel in the quarterberth.

All joinery, laminates and solid wood, reflect the individual skills of Bristols work force. The main and forward cabins are wood-sheathed. The sole is teak with a handsome ash inlay, all hand-layed, screwed, glued and bunged.

Many Bristol 35.5s were customized to some degree. Interior wood, for instance, could be mahogany, cherry or teak, with the latter two carrying a considerable premium. Double sinks in the galley were another fairly expensive option.

However, most equipment is standard. Bristol used topflight components, like Racor filters, Brunzeel bulkheads, Nicro vents, Schaefer hardware, Almag 35 ports, Bomar hatches, Edson steering and Lewmar winches.

The boats deck is a first-rate work platform and, for comfort, the cockpit is the equal of any 35-footer. However, because the seats run the full length of the cockpit, one must climb up and over to reach the steering station behind the big wheel. Its annoying. You can’t even slide aft.

Construction The Bristol 35.5s are solid fiberglass. The hull is built in halves and joined down the middle, which makes possible Bristols fine hull-to-deck joint. The hull is flanged inward and the deck is bolted on top of the flange with a teak toerail also through-bolted. It makes for both a watertight joint and a very rigid structural beam at the rail.

Centerboards frequently are a source of major headaches. However, the Bristol 35.5Cs board, which does not protrude into the cabin sole, must be well designed and executed.

The board is controlled by a low-geared horizontal winch on the coachroof. A stainless steel wire runs forward to a stainless vertical pipe at the corner of the chart table, down and across to the centerline under the floorboards. It makes three turns. The cable is entirely enclosed. If it were to cause trouble, it would be difficult to fix. However, only two of the Practical Sailor readers who own Bristol 35.5Cs report problems. Only a few boats were built before Bristol made modifications to the centerboard.

Sailing Characteristics Make no mistake: The Bristol 35.5C is tender, as are most centerboarders. In return you get a very lively boat that is quick in any air, like many more modern fin keelers except that with her moderate keel and centerboard, the Bristol 35.5 doesn’t require slavish attention to the helm.

The centerboard version has an IOR rating of 25.38, which means she should move out on a C & C 35, an Olson 38, a Hughes 38, a Pearson 35, a Tartan 37, a Morgan 38 and a J/34. Thats pretty good company for a design of this vintage.

The IMS numbers show the centerboard version to be faster than the keel version. The heavier centerboarder (with 500 pounds more ballast) gives the keel model 6.8 seconds a mile in light air and 9 seconds a mile in 20 knots.

Despite being a centerboarder, the Bristol 35.5C, because of her ballast, has a very respectable calculated static stability of 115.

The boats phenomenal light-air performance is delineated in the Performance Package supplied by the United States Yacht Racing Union. In a true wind of 6 knots, close-hauled (44.5 degrees), the Bristol 35.5C, with a 120% jib, should do 3.9 knots. The velocity made good will be 2.8 knots. Shed be heeled only 5. Beam reaching in the same conditions, the boat should do 5.4 knots. In 20 knots true, the boat would do 6.1 knots, but would be heeling 31. Broad reaching in 20 knots, shed turn up slightly more than eight knots.

We’ve spent many happy hours sailing out of Newport, Rhode Island, aboard a 35.5C owned by Dwight Webb, who never has been known to overuse the engine. He’s a sailorman. Beautifully maintained (with all exterior teak varnished) and with excellentsails, including Hood furling on the headstay and a Doyle Stackpack on the main, Webbs boat always moves well in any air.

In the past, Webb has owned quite a few boats: a Meridian, Triton, Morgan 30, Pearson 33, Pearson 35, Bristol 39, C & C 33, Sea Sprite 34, C & C 34 and a C & C 38.

Hes passed on 10 years with the Bristol 35.5C, which he deems simply, Best boat Ive ever owned.

Conclusion If a Bristol 35.5C takes your fancy, try for one with either a Westerbeke diesel or the equally satisfactory three-cylinder, 24-hp diesel made for a time by Universal. Avoid the Yanmar 2QM 20H, a twocylinder diesel that struggles unsuccessfully to get up to hull speed.

Beware of a 1978 model without the modified centerboard.

Also, don’t pay extra for a boat with a half dozen headsails. The Bristol 35.5C achieves her polar diagram optimums with a single 120% or 130% jib, which ideally will be on furling gear. Jibs bigger than that simply overpower the boat.

You’ll pay heavily for a newer one, and because so few were built, the older used ones also are somewhat dear. 1981 is about where the ideal prices seem to occur. Those built later than 1981 seem to carry premium prices.

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BRISTOL 35.5

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Bristol 35.5

The bristol 35.5 is a 35.5ft masthead sloop designed by ted hood and built in fiberglass by bristol yachts between 1978 and 1996., 183 units have been built..

The Bristol 35.5 is a heavy sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a good water supply range.

Bristol 35.5 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Model	Bristol 35.5
Length	35.50 ft
Beam	10.83 ft
Draft	5.75 ft
Country	United states (North America)
Estimated price	$ 0	??

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Sail area / displ.	15.90
Ballast / displ.	43.33 %
Displ. / length	321.99
Comfort ratio	32.47
Capsize	1.76

Hull type	Monohull fin keel with rudder on skeg
Construction	Fiberglass
Waterline length	27.50 ft
Maximum draft	5.75 ft
Displacement	15000 lbs
Ballast	6500 lbs
Hull speed	7.03 knots

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Rigging	Masthead Sloop
Sail area (100%)	602 sq.ft
Air draft	0 ft	??
Sail area fore	352.50 sq.ft
Sail area main	249.59 sq.ft
I	47 ft
J	15 ft
P	40.75 ft
E	12.25 ft

Nb engines	1
Total power	22 HP
Fuel capacity	31 gals

Accommodations

Water capacity	100 gals
Headroom	0 ft
Nb of cabins	0
Nb of berths	0
Nb heads	0

Builder data

Builder	Bristol Yachts
Designer	Ted Hood
First built	1978
Last built	1996
Number built	183

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Review of Bristol 35.5

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season.

The Bristol 35.5 has been built with different keel alternatives.

CentreBoard

One option is a centreboard keel. A centreboard keel is a pivoting lifting keel, allowing to sail both coastal and inland waters.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.16 - 1.26 meter (3.81 - 4.11 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Another option is a fin keel. The fin keel is the most common keel and provides splendid manoeuvrability. The downside is that it has less directional stability than a long keel.

The boat can enter most marinas as the draft is just about 1.77 - 1.87 meter (5.81 - 6.11 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 7.0 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Bristol 35.5 is about 185 kg/cm, alternatively 1038 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 185 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 1038 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 35m 2 (376 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.


Usage	Length		Diameter
Mainsail halyard	32.4 m	(106.3 feet)	12 mm	(1/2 inch)
Jib/genoa halyard	32.4 m	(106.3 feet)	12 mm	(1/2 inch)
Spinnaker halyard	32.4 m	(106.3 feet)	12 mm	(1/2 inch)
Jib sheet	10.8 m	(35.5 feet)	14 mm	(0.55 inch)
Genoa sheet	10.8 m	(35.5 feet)	14 mm	(0.55 inch)
Mainsheet	27.1 m	(88.7 feet)	14 mm	(0.55 inch)
Spinnaker sheet	23.8 m	(78.1 feet)	14 mm	(0.55 inch)
Cunningham	3.8 m	(12.3 feet)	12 mm	(1/2 inch)
Kickingstrap	7.5 m	(24.6 feet)	12 mm	(1/2 inch)
Clew-outhaul	7.5 m	(24.6 feet)	12 mm	(1/2 inch)

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

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If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Fin with rudder on skeg

Specifications BRISTOL 35.5

Home - Sailboat Listings 1978 - 35.50 ft / 10.82 m - Bristol Yachts Inc. (USA) - Ted Hood

BRISTOL 35.5 Sailboat Data

Hull Type: Fin with rudder on skeg Rigging Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 35.50 ft / 10.82 m LWL: 27.50 ft / 8.38 m S.A. (reported): 602.00 ft² / 55.93 m² Beam: 10.83 ft / 3.30 m Displacement: 15,000.00 lb / 6,804 kg Ballast: 6,500.00 lb / 2,948 kg Max Draft: 5.75 ft / 1.75 m Construction: FG/balsa cored deck Ballast Type: Lead First Built: 1978 Last Built: 1996 # Built: 183 Builder: Bristol Yachts Inc. (USA) Designer: Ted Hood

Information from sailboatdata.com .

Type Engine: Diesel HP: 22 Fuel: 31 gals / 117 L Water: 100 gals / 379 L Hull Speed: 7.03 kn

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I am looking at a used Bristol 35. Anybody have any experience with this boat ?? How would she be in coastal crusing ?? Any major limitations with performance ?? All inputs welcome. ML

I wish I had my Bristol 35 under my ass right now. It''s sitting in a yard in Maine while I sit here and watch the moon rise over Jost Van Dyke. Ah well. A landing pad in Maine, anyway. What year is the Bristol you are looking at? Mine''s a yawl, the one you''re looking at is likely a sloop. Water infiltration into the balsa cored decks can be a problem. Walk around in stocking feet and bounce a little here and there, including on the cabin top. You''ll see sponginess or hear little crackling sounds. It''s fixable. Hull is solid glass, probably an inch thick or better on the bottom of the ballast. 3/4 inch at the turn of the bilge. Lessee- mast step problems can be fixed-check the blocking under the compression post in the main cabin and see if the passageway door closes cleanly. It can be shimmed up if necessary. All deck hardware should be rebedded right off the bat. Through hulls punched and groco stainless ballcocks installed at about 50 bucks each (thats 7 through hulls, I believe). The old Wilcox Crittenden units get all munged up and, while they work, they stick. I left them in the cockpit scupper drains, which never get closed, and the head sink, which can be a beast to close. Ask questions. I rebuilt the whole boat, the Volvo Diesel, redid everything belowdecks, etc. Sails nice, CCA racer-cruiser, 6.53K hull speed, good positive righting moment. Perfect coastal cruiser, needs cockpit filler boxes to reduce cockpit volume offshore. No big pucker with bolt-in - unbolt to remove storage boxes & helm seat. Everything straightforward enough to figure out and fix. Full keel is forgiving, a little tender in the first gust, but you''ll find it difficult to keep the rail wet. Ask questions, I''ll answer. Is the one you''re looking at a centerboarder? Mine ain''t. I have hull #11. It''s a 1972 Alden Yawl. I miss her. V.I. Exile

VIEXILE said: I wish I had my Bristol 35 under my ass right now. It''s sitting in a yard in Maine while I sit here and watch the moon rise over Jost Van ****. Ah well. A landing pad in Maine, anyway. What year is the Bristol you are looking at? Mine''s a yawl, the one you''re looking at is likely a sloop. Water infiltration into the balsa cored decks can be a problem. Walk around in stocking feet and bounce a little here and there, including on the cabin top. You''ll see sponginess or hear little crackling sounds. It''s fixable. Hull is solid glass, probably an inch thick or better on the bottom of the ballast. 3/4 inch at the turn of the bilge. Lessee- mast step problems can be fixed-check the blocking under the compression post in the main cabin and see if the passageway door closes cleanly. It can be shimmed up if necessary. All deck hardware should be rebedded right off the bat. Through hulls punched and groco stainless ballcocks installed at about 50 bucks each (thats 7 through hulls, I believe). The old Wilcox Crittenden units get all munged up and, while they work, they stick. I left them in the cockpit scupper drains, which never get closed, and the head sink, which can be a beast to close. Ask questions. I rebuilt the whole boat, the Volvo Diesel, redid everything belowdecks, etc. Sails nice, CCA racer-cruiser, 6.53K hull speed, good positive righting moment. Perfect coastal cruiser, needs cockpit filler boxes to reduce cockpit volume offshore. No big pucker with bolt-in - unbolt to remove storage boxes & helm seat. Everything straightforward enough to figure out and fix. Full keel is forgiving, a little tender in the first gust, but you''ll find it difficult to keep the rail wet. Ask questions, I''ll answer. Is the one you''re looking at a centerboarder? Mine ain''t. I have hull #11. It''s a 1972 Alden Yawl. I miss her. V.I. Exile Click to expand...

A lot depends on where you are going to use this boat. They don''t have a lot of sail area so unless a breeze comes up you are going to motor. It''s also a obsolete design and a old boat. But 35'' boats are big enough. Not my cup of tea. Keep looking.

O.K., I guess this guy is suggesting you buy a Hunter. Or maybe better, a MacGregor 26, because dollar for dollar you won''t get as much quality in comparison, hence, the rationale for buying the older boat. I wonder how much time he''s spent sailing more than a half mile offshore, inasmuch as the hull speed of the Bristol 35 is 6.53 knots and the Alden Design qualified the boat as a CCA Racer? She''s no J-24 or Melges, but those are totally different categories of boat. And no, I''ve never had to run the engine when other boats were still sailing. Pop the drifter or spinnaker and she moves right along nicely. However, she doesn''t tend to turtle quite as well as the boats this guy seems to like so much in gusts, and, yes, I''ve sailed both......

I have had a Pearson 26 for 50 years, which it has been great all up and down the East Coast and settled in Maine, and will keep her for my grown kids. I just purchased a 54-year-old Bristol 35, Hull #15, (finally moving up) and thoroughly looking forward to this classic lady as I work her over later this month in Maine. She was indoors all her life and used a few weeks each summer. Great condition. I will look over everything carefully regardless, but two surveys showed good condition of the decks and equipment. Needs a new head, seriously. A five-foot draft and a keel that weighs more than my whole P-26. 'Got to be a real difference. The former owners were cautious sailors, as there are three full sets of anchor gear, a CQR, Danforth, and Yachtsman, and lots of mooring lines. There is even a huge set of bolt cutters in case they have to cut away the rigging. I doubt the diesel (1991) has more than 40 hours on it.

I bet the Bristol 35 will go faster than 6.35 K. Long overhangs that boats like that have make the sailing length longer than the waterline. There must be some application for the Bristol line but I don''t like any of the smaller ones that I have seen. My boat is old too but for coastal crusing it just has to be a better sailor than the Bristol 35. The catalog that I have shows the C&C 35-1 and the Bristol 35 next to each other. The C&C has a IOR MK 111 rating of 29.0'' There is no rating for the Bristol! In light air the Bristol 35 will be a dog. Install a 275 gallon tank or keep looking.

Ahhhh. Canuck Canoe. Didn''t they build the Landfill? I take that back. Sail everything, try everything you can. I shouldn''t be disparaging the MacGregor 26 either. It''s served untold thousands over the years. Make your own decisions. Everyone''s got their preferences. I believe you asked about coastal cruising. Different boats for different folks. If you''re going back to the plastic classics, stick with Bristol and Pearson if you''re on a budget. I spent two weeks years ago on the elbow of one of the business'' top surveyors - he designed the Pearson Triton - he told me I couldn''t go wrong with Bristol and he was right. C&C, O''Day, the Taiwan/Hong Kong contingent and even Cape Dory didn''t fare as well out of the blocks from what he''d seen over the years. You buy an old boat, you got $$ to spend to put it in "good" condition. Take your time, learn to "pre-survey," and, above all SEA TRIAL with someone who can get the boat performing. If you wanna race, buy a race boat. Lessee, I believe, not counting going between Cape Cod and up home to Monhegan a couple times, I burned about a tank of fuel in the Bristol 35. Never had a problem with it in light air with a 110 Genny or more.

You the man, Mr. Drake.

There you have it. A well written song played while some of us dance around the head of a pin. The requirement is a boat for coastal cruising. The Bristol 35 will be so slow as to not be a lot of fun. It just does not have a tall enough mast. Take for example my C&C 35-1 that has a solid fibreglass hull by the way and so do the Mark 11''s. My boat has enough sail area to be fun. The SA/DR is 19.2, the PHRF 129 but as a crusing boat they do well as off the wind they are better than 129 and to windward they will stay with most any boat their size except for the J boat types. So why get a slow boat? There are about 10 reasons so of which are: 1. He didn''t know any better, the salesman said it was a good boat. 2. He is afraid of sailing and really just wants a boat that looks like a sailboat to motor around in. I have the other reasons but am saving them for later in because I don''t want you to laugh too long. So I challange the buyer to look at some C&C 35-1''s or 35-2''s and report back to us. In Henersons "Choice Yacht Designs" there are no Bristols! Henderson says this about the C&C3 35 Mark 1 which is a featured boat. "this would be an ideal boat to claw off a lee shore in" The Bristol 35 is an obsolete design totally unsuitable as a first choice for coastal crusing. Also if you want to race it there is no way short of a paid crew that you will get anyone to stay with the season. You will finish too late or after dark most evenings. The Bristol 35 is a lot better than most 25'' boats for coasting but that''s about all. Keep looking. The C&C sites are: www.sailcandc.com and www.cnc-owners.com

There''s your answer. I wouldn''t own a C(anuck) & C(anoe) on a bet, but for "new" buyers the first purchase tends to be situational. The right place, the right deal. I don''t race my B35 and I don''t burn more than a tank or two of fuel all summer long. I cruise the gulf of Maine at about 5.5 to 6 knots under sail - slow by any measure - but just because some bohunk didn''t put the Bristol in his book doesn''t mean it''s an "obsolete coastal cruiser." Watch and learn, grasshopper. There are 50++ year old BEAUTIFUL "obsolete" designs cruising the world and turning heads everywhere. I like Bristols, don''t like C&C''s. Wasshisname likes C&C''s, don''t like Bristols. It all revolves around familiarity, comfort, taste and personal knowledge. You wanna race, look at race boats. You want offshore comfort in the same price range, look at Bristols. You want a porker, look at Irwin. I don''t know where the idea comes froom that the B35 is "totally unsuitable for coastal cruising." After almost 7 years of cruising a 1972 Alden Yawl, I''ve got no complaints, and I enjoy racing J-24''s, but you''re comparing plastic to classic. Jeesh. Maybe you''d be best off ignoring us both, buying, say the book "This Old Boat" and a couple others and figure out what YOU''re looking for. Washtay, bwana. From the sunny VI - THAT''S why I can hold on to the sense of humor and minimize the give a crap factor. Besides, I''m in the process of buying an absolute PIG of a Herreshoff 50 for liveaboard. Built in Taiwan. Gotta have a sense of humor in that instance.....

I always considered Bristols to be a more classic and wood-trimmed Pearson, them being related. Your assessment of C&C and Irwins go with what I learned back in the early 70s when I bought my Pearson 26 to live on in graduate school. I still have it 50 years later, but also bought a 1967 Bristol 34.5 last week that I cannot wait to experience. A very different vehicle.

I've owned my Bristol 35 for nine years and am very pleased with it. Not fast, not flashy, just a good, tough, old boat.

Well all very interesting, I use to own a J 35 (PHRF 75), fast and fun and also did a lot of crusing with it. Sold it about 4 years ago, and just recently bought a Bristol 34. Dosn't have as much sail area and seems to be a little tender. But could be the wayI am sailing it. Although sometimes I wish I still had the J35, the bristol 34 is growing on me. With new sails and watching the main sail trim it is a fun boat to sail even in 5 to 10knts. Healing improves the lack of water line lenght, and the lines are nice. A good looking boat.

The Bristol (33) 34 has always been one of my favorite boats of that era. They were fast and well mannered for that period. Build quility was above average, and they had a little better sailplan proportion than most boats of the CCA era. They were very different boats than the 35 upon which this thread is based. Jeff

Sorry, I am getting confused on the Bristols that were made 33, 34, 35, 35-5 and who design them.

The Bristol 32 was an early Ted Hood Design. It was replaced by the Bristol 30 and the Bristol 33 both of which were designed by Halsey Herreshoff. Herreshoff and Bristol later made minor improvements to the 33 design and called the revised design the Bristol 34. The Bristol 35 was an earlier John Alden and Associates design (John Alden was long gone by the time this boat was designed). which was also replaced by the 33. The Bristol 30 was replaced by the Bristol 29.9 an inferior IOR era design in my opinion. The 35.5 was a later Ted Hood and Dieter Empacher design that replaced the Bristol 34. Jeff

interesting, thanks for the history.

It is hard to tell, when the 34.5 is rounded down or up when mentioned. My hull is #15 1967 and only 65 were made. It is not to be confused with later models that might have the same number, 34 or 35. The two windows of the main cabin are sort of elongated ovals, which is more or less diagnostic. Mine is 1967. And, fortunately, the main traveller is behind the cockpit, which I find delightful.

Annapolitan said: ?? I thought the Bristol "decimal" series (e.g 31.1, 35.5, 38.8 and upwards) weren't produced till 1978 or thereabouts and even as such have never heard of a 34.5 of any year. Click to expand...

Wow. Old thread. My opinions have changed since 2001, now OVER 20 FRIGGIN' YEARS AGO! C&C built some pretty good boats. Still not excited about some others. Thank God I didn't buy the Herreschoff 50. But oh to be 20 years younger.

I own one that needs a full restoration. Its been with me for 30 years plus. I'm considering parting with her for fair price or trade. Awesome boat, too many projects...lottsa good adventures and memories...she now lives in my yard for the time being...

Wow VIEXILE, that's pretty neat returning to post on the same thread 20 years later!

I believe the Bristol 35 Alden was 34.5' in length. But she only had a 23' waterline. The overall point over the years was is and has been that boat purchases are situational. Educate yourself by hands on experience and get what works best for you. We loved the Bristol 35 Alden, but someone else loved it more in the Drake Channel between STJ and Tola and came up alongside and said "I'm going to own that boat." The guy tracked me down, overpaid for it and it moved to its new home in Seacow Bay, Tortola. But she WAS Bristol when he bought it. New Yanmar, new awlgrip, added teak, new winches, etc. Haven't seen it since.

?
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1973 Bristol 35 Technical Specs

General data about bristol 35.

Brand
Model
Boat Type
Category
Year Of Production
Condition (New/Used)
Country
Fuel (Gas/Diesel)
Hull Material Used
Length
Selling Price
Vat Status

Engine and Power Specs

Engine manufacturer
Engine Series
Engine Location
Engine Hours

Engine Built Year

Dimensions And Wieght

LOA (Length Overall)
Dry Weight (Empty)
Boat Keel Type
Beam Width
BC (Bridge Clearance)

Detailed Specifications

Numebr of Cabins
Hull Type and Design
Gas Tank Size
Drinking Water Tank
Berth (Mono/Single)

Features And Equipments

Sailing features.

Main sail

Covers - sail

Other Equipments

bottom paint antifouling

Winches - manual

Standing rigging

Navigation lights

Mast

Boom

Blocks

Interior Specifications

V berth

Stove

Sink - cabin

Shower

Salon

Marine refrigerator

Head

Dinette

Engine And Mechanical Specs

25.0 hp

Electronical And Electrical Info

Hour meter

Compass steering

Battery switch

Deck Hardware

Windlass

Bimini

Anchor rode

Anchor locker

Anchor

Bristol 35 tv detailed specifications and features

Bristol provided us with the latest version of its 35 service repair manual
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Bristol 35 competitors

Dubbel & Jesse

Beam: 13'8"' Draft: 4'10"'

Beam: 13 2' Draft: 4 11'

Beam: 13' Draft: 4.5'

Beam: 13'' Draft: 4'5'

Beam: 13' Draft: 4.6'

Beam: 13.6' Draft: 4'6'

Beam: 10'9' Draft: 4''

Beam: 10.5' Draft: 5.5'

Beam: 10'9' Draft: 5'4'

Beam: 10.9' Draft: 5.5'

Beam: 10.75' Draft: 5.33'

Beam: 10'9' Draft: 4'7''

Beam: 11' Draft: 5.4'

Beam: 10' Draft: 5.6'

Beam: 12' Draft: 5'

Beam: 11.6' Draft: 5.5'

Beam: 10.7' Draft: 5.4'

Beam: 10.9' Draft: 5.6'

Beam: 13' Draft: 5'

Beam: 13'4' Draft: 5'

Beam: 10.10' Draft: 5.9'

Beam: 10.8' Draft: 3.9'

Beam: 10.10' Draft: 3.9'

Beam: 11' Draft: 4'

Beam: 10' Draft: 3'9''

Beam: 10' Draft: 5'

Beam: 11.7' Draft: 5'

Beam: 10'11' Draft: 4'

Beam: 10'6' Draft: 5'6'

Beam: 10' Draft: 4.5'

Beam: 9.6' Draft: 5.6'

Beam: 9'5' Draft: 4'7'

Beam: 12'9' Draft: 3'9'

Beam: 11.6' Draft: 5'

Beam: 9.5' Draft: 4.6'

Beam: 9.6' Draft: 4.8'

Beam: 9'6' Draft: 4'7'

Beam: 9.8' Draft: 3.5'

Beam: 9.5' Draft: 4.8'

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Beam: 9.17''

Beam: 10.5' Draft: 4.5'

Beam: 9' Draft: 3.5'

Beam: 10.17' Draft: 4.33'

Beam: 10.2' Draft: 3.5'