hunter 146 sailboat

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2004 Hunter 146

2004 hunter 146 specs.

• Boat Type : Monohull Sailboats
• Hull Material : Plastic/Fiberglass
• Beam : 6'6"
• Length : 15'
• Net Weight : 340 lbs
• Looking for the Boat Manual? 2004 Hunter Boats 146 Request Boat Manual Now

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• 2003 Hunter 146
• 2005 Hunter 146
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• 2009 Hunter 146

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• Sailboat Guide

Hunter 146 is a 14 ′ 6 ″ / 4.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Chuck Burns and built by Hunter Marine starting in 2003.

• 2 / 6 Amherst, OH, US 2008 Hunter 146 $3,500 USD View
• 3 / 6 Amherst, OH, US 2008 Hunter 146 $3,500 USD View
• 4 / 6 Amherst, OH, US 2008 Hunter 146 $3,500 USD View
• 5 / 6 Amherst, OH, US 2008 Hunter 146 $3,500 USD View
• 6 / 6 Amherst, OH, US 2008 Hunter 146 $3,500 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Later sold as HUNTER 15.

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Hunter 146 Rigging

• Thread starter sguice
• Start date May 10, 2011
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Day Sailers

We just purchased a new 2008 Hunter 146. After the initial rigging, I thought I would leave the main sail on the boom and cover it for storage but when I lower the mainsail the back of the boom drops into the cockpit fo the boat. Is this normal or is the boom supposed to stay up. I always thought that the boom would have a fixed position 90 degrees to the mast. I am also having difficulty rigging the furling jib. Please let me know if you have any advice or can share any diagrams. This is my first experience with a monohul sailboat.  

esterhazyinoz

You can do 2 things to keep the boom up. 1. after you have lowered the mainsail, use the main halyard attached to the end of the boom as a topping lift. or 2. Install a boomkicker (see photo). The model you require for your boat is not expensive, very easy to install yourself, and, IMHO, worth every penny. This is what I did for my H15 and my toes continue to thank me for not being crushed when the boom crashes to the cockpit sole when I drop my mainsail. Happy sailing in your new boat!  

Attachments

I echo the recommendation for a boomkicker! It's very easy to install and definitely worth the $100 or so. Here is my rigging routine - 1 - I always keep both shrouds attached to the deck eyelets for a quicker setup time. Keep one shroud adjuster in the closed/tightened position, and the other in the open position. 2 - Step the mast and walk it forward, then have a helper secure the jib to the roller furler. 3 - Have one of your deck hands close and secure the 'open' shroud adjuster while you keep the mast upright and plumb. 4 - Sail Note: I've always had help in stepping the mast and attaching the jib to the furler drum. You can rig a pully to the top third portion of the bow side of the mast, and attach a line to it for stepping the mast and attaching the jib on your own. This would go near where the top of the forestay is secured to the mast. Search on this forum, there are a couple of threads that discuss that. Regarding your question about the self-furling jib - I had the same issue. I bought my boat used, and self-furling jib system was missing one key component that allowed it to work. I attached the eyelet at the foot of the jib to the eyelet on the forestay by way of lashing them together with some thin rope. The forestay attaches to the roller drum with a shackle. Voila! The self furling will now work as long as the forestay and the sail are attached. You can also use shackles to attach the two. Enjoy your boat! Bostonian  

PS - Go to your local ship chandlery and buy an extra packet of cotter pins and/or cotter rings for the shoud adjusters and furling jib connections! I also keep a couple of shackles on hand. All of these are incredibly easy to lose, and they might come in handy if something comes loose or gets lost while underway. I have most of mine secured with thin rope and tied to something stationary for this reason.  

I agree with Bostonian re having those extra bits. It's so easy to drop a shackle pin in the water or in the sand and never find it. I use quick pins on my shroud adjusters and secure them with thin line to the body of the adjusters. Even with this precaution I carry extras. I keep all these bits in a small tupperware-esque food storage box with a locking lid and have it quickly accessible while I am sailing. Also as you are new to this BB, I suggest that you have a look at the articles that H146, H15 and H170 owners have written re what modifications they have made to their boats (look under the boat info tab at the top of the page). There is a lot of helpful info on this website from very supportive and knowledgeable people. They sure have helped me a lot!  

See this thread for ideas on how to rig solo: http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=118258  

Blue Runner's solution works a treat! I did a similar set up on my H15 (a H146 but with a fibreglass hull). I haven't used an extra line, I just use the main halyard cleated on the mast and attached to a 6 purchase pully system with cam cleat that is attached to the trailer mast carrier (i welded a bit of chain near the top of the mast carrier to act as an anchor point). That holds the mast up and gives it enough forward bend so I can jump out of the boat and very easily attach the forestay/furling drum to the stemhead fitting on the bow. What sort of shroud adjusters do you have on your H146, the Johnson quick release ones?  

Yes, I have the Johnson quick release shroud adjusters. Do you have a picture you can post of the setup?  

I didn't have any photos taken prior to a launch so just went outside and mocked up a scene that should give you the idea. Attached are two photos that tell the story. Note, I misspoke before, this is a 4 purchase system, not a 6. Its been so long since I've been sailing (last August), I forget what my boat looks like! Note the splicenut that I installed on the main halyard. Promises that you will never get your halyard stuck in the mast head. As you can see, I am an unrepentant gadget freak. PS. I added a photo of my forestay/furling drum/stemhead connection. Since taking this photo I removed the twisted shackle and just use the long shackle between the drum and the jib tack.  

Sweet!  

Wait until you see my whisker pole set up! Actually I can't wait to try out all the modifications I have done while my leg has been healing. If I continue to be clumsy and break body parts, I think I'll end up with a PT Boat instead of a Daysailer! LOL!  

sarahssailboat

do you have pics of this system?  

Which system, my whisker pole set up? - No, I shattered my leg right after installing it so haven't been sailing since and now it is winter here. The next time it is sunny I will take some photos of how I have it attached to the mast. Images of the component parts are attached. I riveted a bail to the mast. I attach the 'beak' end of the pole to this as it allows the pole to easily swing from port to starboard. The spike end fits into the jib clew. I riveted a small eye strap/saddle in the middle of the pole. The 1" diameter pole hangs from a line that is attached to this on one end and to another higher on the mast. I figured that this support would help when attaching the pole to either the mast or the jib clew. Note that the total length of the entire whisker pole should be the same length as the foot of the foresail you are going to use it with.  

It was sunny today so I grabbed my whisker pole off my mast and took a few photos. One thing I didn't mention before was that I ran a thin line from the middle of the pole to the beak to be able to easily open the beak mechanism. I keep the pole on the mast. It stays in place by keeping the beak end on the bail and pivoted up to snap into the black spring clip you see in the photo. The white fitting in the same photo is used to clip the 'topping lift' line that comes from the centre of the pole to hold it up while installing it. It also keeps it from going overboard when 'butter fingers' like me are setting it up.  

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A hunter’s guide to souvenir shopping in Moscow

One of the first questions that comes to mind of foreign tourists is what should they buy in Russian and where. Pictured: Moscow’s Vernisazh market at Izmailovo. Source: ITAR-tASS

A fair in Russia is an open-air market, although it could also be described as a bazaar. It comes with all the usual trappings: noise, shouting, haggling to get two-thirds off the price of a product that is at least five times overpriced, ever-present pickpockets, and the same thrill of the chase that causes Europeans to snap up carpets in Tunisia and matryoshka dolls in Moscow. Buying Russian souvenirs anywhere else is pointless.

This leaves only two questions: What should you buy in Russia, and where?

Moscow wants to go visa-free

Salt, saints and sinners

Looking for interesting antiques, unique drinks, and peculiarly Russian food? How about some excellent warm clothing for those cold winter nights? Russians know a thing or two about that. Many tourists from Northern countries come here especially to seek out fur hats with earflaps or fur coats.

Anna Maria, a student from Denmark, shares her thoughts on Moscow’s Vernisazh market at Izmailovo: "It's fashionable in Europe now to wear things from Russia. There’s some great stuff: hats, scarves, earrings... I really want a fur coat! But a fur hat is the most important thing! I advise all tourists to get one here. That's what I'm looking for right now.”

Russia is particularly famous for its down shawls from Orenburg in the southern Urals. They are incredibly warm, yet thin and lightweight. Orenburg shawls bear all the characteristics of traditional folk handicraft.

In Russia, colorful woolen and cotton shawls with traditional Russian patterns known as khokhloma are becoming increasingly popular. Young girls carefully select shawls to match their eyes and hair and to wear them with fur coats. It became fashionable just a year ago, and it really does look beautiful. European tourists sometimes cling to old preconceptions that, supposedly, "only grannies wear such scarves."

What to buy in Russian Souvenir shopping. Pictured (left-right, top to bottom): Ushanka hats, Zhostovo trails, decorative eegs, Orenburg cashmere shawls . Source: Anton Panin

Besides clothing, Russian fairs teem with matryoshkas and other wooden objects. Such souvenirs not only decorate shelves, but can also be put to good use in the kitchen: Russian-style spoons, plates, or spatulas make a great gift.

Some tourists admit to occasionally scouring Russian markets for old Soviet antiques. Dulled World War II medals, military clothing, badges, books — these are all of wild interest to collectors. It should be noted that such medals and decorations were awarded to people for heroism on the battlefield, and then sold to dealers out of extreme poverty. Selling and buying state awards is illegal, and special permission must be obtained before trying to take them out of the country. So be forewarned.

Utensils occupy a special place among Russian souvenirs. For example, the rare samovar is still a symbol of Russian life, despite having been replaced by the ubiquitous kettle. From time to time, visitors might still catch a glimpse of a large and beautiful samovar on a dining table. The famous dishware from the town of Gzhel is also a trademark of Russia, renowned for its intricate patterns and colors. Gzhel is an ancient center of porcelain, earthenware, and pottery production.

What to buy in Russian: Souvenir shopping. Pictured (left-right): Gzhel ceramics, Matryoshka dolls. Source: Anton Panin

And, of course, many people want to indulge themselves and their friends with good old-fashioned pancakes, cakes, and kvass. Moscow periodically hosts honey fairs, with different varieties brought in from all over Russia. Fair-goers can spend all day tasting honey. At such events, tourists can also have a sip of a light alcoholic drink known as medovukha, or sweet mead.

Where should tourists go to buy souvenirs in Moscow?

What to buy in Russian: Souvenir shopping. Pictured (left-right): Pavlovo Posad shawls, Palekh lacquer boxes. Source: Anton Panin

Red Square market

This is the most banal option, perfect for lazybones. On exiting Teatralnaya metro station, you will see a series of tents with the usual suspects: dolls, hats, scarves. Pros: you do not have far to go if you are staying in the center, and you will be able to visit the Kremlin and Red Square at the same time. Cons: everything is overpriced and rather clichéd.

Strolling along this historic pedestrian street at the heart of Moscow, you can hear live music, buy your own portrait, and pick up souvenirs or even a tattoo. Pros: the street itself is of historical interest. There is quite a wide variety of souvenirs and lots of pictures. Cons: the prices are slightly inflated.

Sparrow Hills

This famous tourist attraction is a kind of observation deck from which to view Moscow. There is never a shortage of stalls with souvenirs. The choice, however, is not large, even though it is somewhat more varied than the selection on Red Square. Pros: at Sparrow Hills you can take a ride up the chairlift or a boat trip from one of the piers; in good weather, you can see almost all of Moscow from the observation point. Cons: a rather limited selection and generally very windy conditions, even in summer.

Vernisazh at Izmailovo

This is perhaps the most famous and largest market in the area, located at Partizanskaya metro station to the east of Moscow. Here you can find souvenirs galore, including giant matryoshkas and numerous Soviet antiques and paintings. Seasoned tourists recommend going deep into the belly of the market, where things are cheaper and haggling is easier. Pros: a vast selection and located near Izmailovo Kremlin. Cons: quite far from the center of the center.

All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta.

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