iwc yacht club ii bracelet

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Time Machines: Delving Into The ‘Cult Of Genta’ With The IWC Yacht Club II Watch

Ask any enthusiast to name one watch designer, and the answer will almost invariably be Gérald Genta. Over the course of his decades-long career, Genta designed watches for a dizzying variety of brands from Audemars Piguet to Credor, launched multiple brands of his own, and arguably created the entire genre of integrated bracelet luxury sports watches singlehandedly. Still, even over a decade after his passing, Genta remains a monolithic figure in the watch community, and no designer before or since has garnered nearly the same sort of reverence among fans. What is it, then, that makes Gérald Genta such a unique focus for both enthusiasts and high-dollar collectors? Perhaps the best way to explore what makes Genta a cult figure in the watch community is to contemplate one of his designs – in this case, the late ‘70s IWC Yacht Club II. Slender, elegant, and bursting with understated complexity, the IWC Yacht Club II distills many of Genta’s favorite design cues into a clean and restrained package, without the baggage of many of his more famous designs.

Introduced at the height of the Quartz Crisis in 1977, the Yacht Club II was the second integrated watch Gérald Genta designed for IWC after 1974’s more famous Ingenieur. The previous C-cased Yacht Club had been a perennial bestseller for the brand through much of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but like the rest of the industry, it had suffered substantially from cheaper, more accurate Japanese quartz competition. Rather than vehemently rejecting the idea of quartz and moving as upmarket as possible, à la Audemars Piguet, IWC instead settled on a hybrid strategy, creating world-class mechanical timepieces and supplementing them with luxe takes on still-innovative quartz technology. The Yacht Club II was the lynchpin of this new strategy, offered with both an in-house IWC Caliber 2250 quartz movement and an ultra-thin JLC 889 automatic and presented as a more casual, lifestyle-oriented alternative to the more seriously sporting Ingenieur or Aquatimer. Genta’s design for the Yacht Club II reflects this philosophy, with a softer, less utilitarian silhouette than the Ingenieur, multiple strap and bracelet options, and an emphasis on slimness.

The IWC Yacht Club II’s case sits at the heart of this design concept. This reference 3312 “Jumbo” model measures in at 38mm wide, but much of the overall form emphasizes this watch’s low, broad stance on the wrist. The stout, squared-off integrated lugs play a major part in this stance, barely extending beyond the bezel and tapering only gently from the case’s widest point. Like many other Genta designs, the overall case shape is roughly octagonal, anchored by a wide octagonal bezel, but in this case, the geometric form continues uninterrupted into squared-off, vertical potions of the case sides at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Rather than coming across as brutish or heavy, however, these segments instead work to emphasize just how slender the Yacht Club II is on the wrist, particularly thanks to the even slimmer lug profiles on either side. In true Genta fashion, however, the geometric bezel forms the centerpiece of the case. Rather than Genta’s most famous models, which either define this bezel in harsh polished angles or smooth curves, the Yacht Club II combines both into a broad, intriguing shape defined more by finishing than crisp, distinct planes. The uppermost surface of this bezel is circular and fully flat, crowned with smooth, understated radial brushing. Between this top layer and the octagonal bezel edge is an exceedingly gradual sloping polished chamfer, which contrasts dramatically with both the flat circular bezel top and the sheer, vertical planes of the bezel edge. Genta confidently left this chamfer as the only brightwork anywhere on the Yacht Club II’s exterior, with both the rest of the case and the bracelet finished with restrained, gentle brushing. That’s not to say the watch isn’t excellently finished, however, and the vertical brushing on each side of the octagonal bezel — over a surface barely more than a millimeter high — reinforces the ultra-premium feel of the watch overall. In order to preserve the strength of the shape on the wrist, the crown is small and deeply recessed, and the crystal is completely flush with the bezel.

Of course, any discussion of a Genta watch design isn’t complete without its bracelet, and the IWC Yacht Club II’s is a suitably crisp and restrained affair. The defining characteristic of this integrated stainless steel bracelet is its broad, oversized rectangular end links. While they may not be as distinctive a visual hallmark as the Royal Oak’s twin polished end links, these links reinforce the simpler, more subdued geometric character of the watch overall, and help the bracelet wrap impressively well around the wrist. From there, the bracelet takes on a flat tapering H-link shape, but without the rounded, raised center links of the Ingenieur or the Patek Philippe Nautilus. This flatter form and the fully brushed finishing here resonate well with the Yacht Club II’s quieter, more gentlemanly approach to integrated design, but some fans might find it oversimplified compared to Genta’s more famous integrated bracelets.

Like the case and bracelet, the dial of the IWC Yacht Club II takes on many of the hallmarks of classic Genta design in a quieter, subtler way. For example, the black dial here is textured, but in a far less overt way than the Royal Oak’s tapisserie or the Nautilus’ “deck planks.” Instead, IWC uses a complex, slate-like naturalistic stone texture, allowing for a myriad of minute highlights and shadows across the matte surface. The rest of the dial is elegantly straightforward, with pointed applied indices matched by sharply faceted pencil hands. While the tritium lume application here is minimal, it has aged to a creamy light khaki tone that suits the off-black hue of the dial handsomely.

Like most examples of the IWC Yacht Club II, this particular reference 3312 example is equipped with the brand’s own Caliber 2250 quartz movement. At the time of its introduction, quartz was still a novel, high-tech segment of watchmaking, and Caliber 2250 models actually retailed for more than their automatic-powered counterparts. Even today, the Caliber 2250 is an excellent example of early Swiss luxury quartz horology, with quality construction and respectable accuracy.

There has never been, and there might never be, another watch designer who commands the kind of reverence from both enthusiasts and industry insiders that Gérald Genta does. While multitudes of other designers and brands have taken their attempts at the sort of integrated sports designs he helped to pioneer, few of these show the same effortless balance and fanatical attention to detail that Genta’s work portrays. The late ‘70s IWC Yacht Club II is stylish, gentlemanly proof of this “Genta magic” in action, with a more relaxed, subtle flair than many of his more industry-shaping works. Even in quartz guise, it’s a highly sought-after piece among vintage collectors, and it’s a powerful reminder of the joys to be found by looking beyond Genta’s biggest icons.

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Watch Collector’s Notebook — IWC’s original Yacht Club, an avant garde answer to the Datejust

One of my favorite vintage brands and one which I also feel is consistently undervalued is the International Watch Company of Schaffhausen, better known as simply IWC. Back in the day, every IWC watch had an in-house movement and their manual wind and automatic calibers were some of the best, most reliable and accurate machines on the market. With their bespoke Pelleton winding system , which was developed by  the marque’s famed technical director  Albert Pelleton in the early 1950s, IWC offered a solid alternative, if not also an implicit challenge, to Rolex’s longtime dominance of full rotor automatic  technology . IWC continued to develop their 85x auto calibers for nearly two decades until they reached what many experts consider the pinnacle with their legendary 8541B movement. And it is the 8541B that you find in IWC’s other implicit challenge to Rolex, the beautifully designed Yacht Club model.

Debuting right at the dawn of the funky 1970s when the Swiss watch industry would go somewhat design mad chasing rapidly changing tastes and fashions, the Yacht Club manages to be at once cutting edge and traditional. Making full use of the sweeping lines of the “C”-shape case, variations of which are also found in contemporaneous Omega Constellations and Heuer’s automatic Carrera, the Yacht Club’s heavy steel case is a perfectly proportioned 36mm X 44mm. That’s much bigger than the rather medium-sized C-shape Connie and obviously not as big as Heuer’s macho racing chronograph, so where it ends up is exactly in the same size bracket as Rolex’s evergreen, the Datejust. And that’s really the best analog and probably the exact watch IWC were gunning for. For if the Datejust was the icon of a never-changing design standard, the Yacht Club aimed to offer the same sort of elegance but with a bit of an avant garde twist for the modern man.

Hence the lugs sweep inward toward the bracelet rather than projecting out in a relatively straight line like the DJ, giving the dial extra prominence and pop. And what beautiful dials the Yacht Clubs had, from the classic beauty of starburst silver to moody, manly gray to my personal favorite, an astonishing blue that changes in hue ever so subtly depending on the angle at which its viewed. Note also the classy way the date discs are not one-size-fits-all for the colored dials but rather reverse printed with white numerals on the matching color background of the dial. Nice touch! The hands are luminous with black inlay and very easy to read and there is something that really appeals about the applied IWC logo of this period. I like it better than the earlier printed full script “International Watch Co.” alone and much more than the later boring printed block lettering, which still adorns their dials today.

The Yacht Club was also a departure for IWC in that prior to its introduction they produced only a few special models with a screw back case design, such as the anti-magnetic Ingenieur and the diver-centric Aquatimer. Clearly with its evocative, upscale name IWC felt it only right to give the Yacht Club the capabilities for excellent water resistance that a screwed back would provide. And if it doesn’t have the screw down Oyster-style crown of the Rolex Datejust, it nonetheless has a very water resistant and somewhat oversized push-in “Fish” crown. In fact, the original depth rating of the steel Yacht Club was 10 atm or 100 meters, certainly up to the capabilities of some sailing and rum & tonics by the pier afterwards . The inner case also incorporated a unique design to cushion the movement within for extra shock absorption above and beyond the standard Incabloc protection.

The Yacht Club was the forerunner of an entire line of “Club” watches that IWC planned to pitch to different aspects of the luxury set, and new models included the smallish, cushion-shaped Golf Club and the oversized, integrated bracelet Polo Club . Neither of these latter two models was successful, perhaps due to the beginning of the quartz onslaught or perhaps just because of their idiosyncratic designs. As a result, the Golf and especially the Polo are quite difficult to find today and command a premium, although I have a sneaking suspicion that they are more fun to hunt than to own and wear. Likewise, IWC later introduced an octagonal Yacht Club II with integrated bracelet. Almost always found with quartz movements, the Yacht Club II is another acquired taste to say the least, but the rare specimens with automatic movements are still quite sought after and pricey. It should be noted that by the time of the Yacht Club II, IWC had moved to outsource their movements as a cost saving measure rather than continue to produce them in-house, although they did often utilize excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre ebauches before dropping down to ETA movements for even more economy later on.

Catalogue image of automatic Yacht Club II models, ca. late 1970s

But one of the joys of the original Yacht Club is that it’s not such a scarce watch and it’s also rather more universally appealing than those other quirky relatives. It also won’t cost you an arm and a leg, about the same as a classic plexi crystal Datejust in fact (the Yacht Club also features a high domed plastic crystal for that unmistakable vintage look and feel but without cyclops magnifier). Which is not say that finding one that ticks all the boxes is de facto easy. As always, original dial condition is paramount in my book and you can expect to pay a small premium for a gray or especially the blue dial (make sure those date discs match!). Next, look for an unpolished case if possible, one that displays sharp original edges and factory original satin finishing, as well as its still-distinct  slim integrated polished bezel.  Additionally, the back should hopefully still show the outer serial number on the edge, which can sometimes be polished out or even worn away with time (that said, the SN is also duplicated inside the back, so not a major deal breaker).

Almost as important as the first two priorities in my opinion is to find the watch on its original signed bracelet. There are a couple of variations — “rice” grain, Oyster-style, etc — but the Yacht Club, with its distinctly tapered and somewhat short lugs, looks best on its bracelet with the specific flush fit 18mm end pieces and rather less streamlined on a strap. If you’re looking at a Yacht Club sans bracelet you should be paying under $2k. Variations of the Yacht Club also include a no-date version, as well as solid gold examples, which will usually only be found on a strap and are usually $3k+. As you might expect, matching original box & papers will tend to add value and are a nice bonus for the collector although, as the old saying goes, you can’t wear ’em.

For me, the standard ref. 1811 Yacht Club with date in steel hits all the high notes. It’s got that fantastic hacking, semi-quickset 25-jewel 8541B caliber ticking away accurately beneath the substantial case. It makes a great change of pace from other steel dress watches, with just enough presence and sporty elan to make it work with jeans or a suit. And while the “C”-shape case is not everyone’s cup of tea, I really like the lines and the way it presents on the wrist. It’s unusual enough to catch the eye and a pleasure to read the time, as well as a refreshingly distinctive design. Dare I say that it’s my personal cure for Datejust fatigue?

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IWC Yacht Club II 3311 Quarz – Gerald Genta – Full Set 1991

The Yacht Club II, an exquisite creation by the renowned Gerald Genta, has been vastly underestimated throughout its lifetime. However, in the past two years, there has been an unprecedented surge in demand for the models sporting integrated steel bracelets. In our humble opinion, this trend shows no signs of slowing down, particularly when it comes to the steel variants.

Therefore, it’s safe to say that a value hike is imminent.

Behold, the jewel in our collection! This particular model is a rare full set and in a near-mint condition. We are confident that the case has never undergone any polishing, as you can spot only some light swirls on the case and bracelet. Trust us, it’s razor-sharp! The bracelet is as tight as a drum and has no hint of stretch.

The rhodium grey dial and luminous dots are in pristine condition, while the hands show only slight signs of ageing. This monochromatic timepiece is a stunning showcase of Gerald Genta’s ingenuity and artistry.

Powered by the IWC Caliber 2250, this steel-bracelet beauty can fit a wrist circumference of up to 19cm.

The watch was bought by its first and only owner on March 6, 1991 in Germany.

Price: SOLD

You will not have to pay extra VAT or import charges when buying from any EU country!

• Original white / black IWC box – very used condition
• Original IWC papers (int. warranty, Service booklet, certificate of origin)
• Certificate incl. photos
• Warranty certificate

34 mm measured without crown

*You can find the warranty conditions under this LINK

How to buy:

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If the item is not available right now, feel free to contact us anyway!

We always ship via Express. Shipping costs for all EU-countries are included. For shipping rates outside EU please contact us.

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