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Custom Teak Boat Toe Rail Replacements

SYNTHETIC TEAK BOAT TOE RAILS

Weight: Varies Part #: M-TRTOERL

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Product Information

Take off that old rotten teak!

Many boats have toe rails that are special in one way or another and we can match your exact specs. If you don’t have existing toe rails, we can start from scratch.

The warm look of teak adds charm and a classic look to any boat. Yours can be beautiful ALL of the time without the work. The next time you have them off, send them in for duplication and be done with maintaining them.

Custom PlasTEAK Installation Guide

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This item is only available by contacting PlasDECK. Call us at 330-668-2587 or email us .

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Toe-tally Worth It – Toe Rail Replacement

Posted by Marissa Neely | Hull & Structure , Projects

Replacing leaky toerails with beautiful bulwarks was an intensive but rewarding job.

D espite her many attributes, our 1979 Cheoy Lee 41,  Avocet , for a time was living up to the epithet “Cheoy Leaky,” and when my husband, Chris, and I realized that the toerail was a significant source for many of those leaks, we knew we had to come up with a solution. We put a Band-Aid on by applying a bead of Teak Decking Systems caulking on the seam where the toerail met the deck and hull. That mitigated the problem for a couple of years until we had the time, money, and plan to convert our leaky toerails to lovely bulwarks.

Back in the 1970s when  Avocet  was built, the Cheoy Lee Shipyard in Hong Kong was known for its strong fiberglass construction. To make the hull-to-deck joint on which the toerail would reside, Cheoy Lee glassed in a shelf where the deck would sit in and on the hull. As the deck was dropped into place, builders applied a generous amount of sealant in the joint, then fiberglassed the two pieces from the inside.

Externally, the joint was not glassed over—a labor-intensive and expensive additional step. The quicker, tried-and-true approach was to construct a toerail and through-bolt it on top of the joint; on  Avocet , the 41-foot-long, 1¼-inch by 4-inch toerail was bent into place and drilled every 12 inches down through the wood, the deck, and the hull shelf before finally being bolted in place.

And in that final step—bolting—lay the rub. Cheoy Lee was also known for using poor-quality stainless steel, and the galvanically corroded stainless bolts and bronze nuts that connected the toerail to the deck compromised the otherwise solid structural integrity, in addition to being prone to leaking. When we removed what was left of 180-plus bolts, many of them crumbled in our hands, making it clear where the water had found voids to creep below.

Faced with the choice of repairing the damage and installing a new toerail or considering a completely new option, we opted for the latter and began looking into designing and installing a bulwark.

What’s the difference between a toerail and a bulwark? In the most basic way explained to us by various boat designers, a toerail is a piece of wood, aluminum, or fiberglass that usually does not exceed more than 3 inches tall and is bolted every few inches through the deck. Anything bigger, which typically is bolted to the stanchions for support, is called a bulwark.

Because whatever we chose would be integral to the hull-to-deck joint, we considered sailor and author John Kretschmer ’s advice on the matter, noting that the ideal hull-to-deck joint for a bluewater boat “does not rely on bolts, screws, rivets, or adhesive for strength or watertightness. The joint is heavily glassed on the inside, the entire way around the boat, and solid stainless steel rods [are used] for mounting stanchions [that] are recessed into the bulwark thus eliminating potential leaks so common when stanchion bases are through-bolted.”

Choosing the bulwark option would give us that sought-for seamless hull-to-deck joint, which would reinforce the interior glass as well as reconcile the damage and voids left by the old bolt holes. Unlike a toerail, we could drill far fewer holes to fasten the bulwark bases and stanchions, further limiting potential for leaks—and we wouldn’t use the dissimilar metals (stainless steel bolts and bronze nuts) as the builder had, so corrosion would be much less likely.

Inspired by a blog called Far Reach Voyages, in which the boat owners created and installed bulwarks on their Cape Dory 36 using a Lyle Hess Bristol Channel Cutter blueprint, we developed our design to incorporate a 6-inch-tall wooden bulwark that would sit about 1½ inches off the deck.

Chris concluded that the best way to mount the bulwark was by fastening it to a series of stainless steel L-brackets installed along the deck. Using this design, we could keep our existing stanchion bases by incorporating them into the L-brackets, making the brackets’ horizontal surface just slightly larger than the stanchion bases. When the time came to bolt the brackets to the deck, these bolts would first go through the stanchion bases, which would sit directly on top of the brackets’ horizontal surface. This would mechanically join each bracket and stanchion base without requiring us to weld them together, which would have been costly.

After running our bulwark plan by boatwrights, engineers, and local fabricators, we concluded that our design idea was sound, and we got to work. We planned to make the toerail-to-bulwark conversion part of a series of projects that included repainting the topsides and deck.

We did as much prep work in our slip as we could before our haulout. We removed the toerail by drilling out what was left of the corroded through bolts. We used a crowbar to pry the teak up from the hull-to-deck joint, though in some places where it had been sealed with 5200, we Sawzalled the pieces out.

We used an angle grinder with a flap disk to remove any remaining old caulking. Once the joint was clean(ish), Chris measured 3 inches down from the deck and marked a dot every few feet. Using a 15-foot batten we found in the boatyard, he laid the batten along the dots and then then hot-glued it to the hull. This would act as a guiding edge for the router, which he fitted with a 1/2-inch-wide straight bit.

With it, he removed a 3-inch-wide, ¼-inch-deep band of fiberglass along the outer edge of the deck and top edge of the hull. This created a bed for the two layers of 6-inch 1708 fiberglass cloth we would lay in to seal the exterior edges of the hull-to-deck joint beneath.

We did one last round of sanding with 60-grit before rounding the sharp edge where the deck met the hull, using a ½-inch roundover bit in the router. This would allow the glass to adhere better, as fiberglass does not like to conform to hard bends. Since we had anticipated laying up two layers of glass, we rounded this edge deeply enough for the glass to be inlaid with room on top for fairing compound.

With the surface prepped, we were finally ready to glass. Using a nifty worktable we had set up, I cut the glass and wet it out using a fin roller and squeegee before passing it off to Chris. This method preserved our epoxy supply and increased our efficiency. We started with the smaller area of the transom, then expanded our work to the starboard and then port sides.

Chris first applied a thin layer of US Composites medium epoxy hardener to the working surface. Working in 6-foot sections gave him just enough time to lay the fiberglass and work each piece into the edge with a fin roller to remove all the air bubbles, then be ready for the next layer as soon as I was done wetting it out. We continued this method for all 88 feet over the course of two days, taking three hours per side.

Twenty-four hours after the glass had set, we lightly sanded using 80-grit on the orbital sander to remove the amine blush and any high spots before we began applying fairing compound. Using US Composites fairing filler and epoxy, we applied three rounds of fairing compound, sanding with our Flexisander long board with 80-grit between each application to ensure a smooth surface. Then, we rolled on a two-part epoxy barrier coat that we used on not only the bottom but the topsides as well, since as a cruising boat, the entire hull is subjected to being constantly wet and rolling in the swell.

We used the barrier coat as blister protection as well as for its ultra-high-build primer characteristics that filled the small cracks, low spots, pinholes, and things we couldn’t see with the naked eye while fairing. This showed us where we needed to sand, fill, and fair more before continuing on to the Awlgrip primer for the topsides paint job.

Slowly,  Avocet  began to look a bit less derelict, with the grey barrier paint hiding her once-fairing-compound-pink hull-to-deck joint and various splotches revealing hull imperfections. Chris rolled the Awlgrip primer, and two days later,  Avocet  was completely off-white and only had to be sanded one more time before being ready for the final topcoat.

The Supports

First, though, we had to prepare for the installation of the bulwark supports. We had purchased nine 24-by-4-by-¼-inch-thick 316L stainless steel bars, which we then cut in half (it was cheaper to buy them at twice the length than to buy them at the actual length needed). After cutting them into 12-inch sections, Chris used an angle grinder with a 150-grit floppy disk to remove the matte finish left over from being cold-rolled in the manufacturing process.

Next, we had to measure the degree for each L-bracket to be bent. Each was slightly different due to the deck’s curvature. To obtain precise measurements, we used two straight pieces of timber about 16 inches long, placed one on the deck and one along the hull, and then measured the bisecting point. This measurement would ensure that the bulwark would be following the sheer line of the hull itself.

Then, we sent the measurements and the bases to a Southern California fabricator, Garhauer Marine, where a hydraulic press bent all 16 bases quickly and effortlessly. This sounds so much easier than it actually was, since dialing in the degrees on a 1/4-inch piece of stainless steel all comes down to the skill of the operator. Luckily, Doug Garhauer had over one million “hits” with this press, so we knew our metal was in experienced hands.

While Garhauer had the L-brackets, Chris used a brass L-bracket template made from a prototype to recess the bulwark bases down into the deck. This way, they would sit flush when mounted with the stanchion base on top, giving a more “factory” appearance. Chris placed the template at every stanchion base location as a guide and used a router to cut the 1/4-inch-deep pockets into the deck. Once this process of cutting holes in our so carefully faired deck was finished, we could complete the topside painting.

With the custom-shaped bases in hand, the next step was drilling out the holes to attach the stanchion bases. This also sounds easier than it was; for one thing, the stanchion bases had different hole patterns, so we would need to custom drill each one. Doug Garhauer had educated Chris on the proper technique for drilling through hard and thick material such as our stainless steel. It all comes down to using the proper tools—but not everyone can keep a drill press onboard! With Doug’s advice and our wonderful friend letting us borrow his drill press, Chris was able to drill the bases, as well as the four holes in each vertical where the bulwark boards would attach.

Finally, it was time to attach the L-brackets and stanchions to the deck. We placed the stanchion bases on top of the bracket bases with a healthy amount of butyl tape between them, then placed more butyl tape on the bottom of the brackets to seal the area between the deck and the base. We through-bolted the bases using 2½-inch-long 316 stainless steel 5/16 machine screws. Finally, we added a bead of Sikaflex to entirely fill the remaining 1/8-inch gap between the bases and the recessed deck edge.

The Bulwarks

The wood we used to construct our bulwarks was a hot topic aboard for weeks. We wanted to use teak again, but our wallets did not agree, so we researched alternative rot-resistant hardwoods. There were many great options like white oak, purple heart, black acacia, and mahogany, but we finally settled on cumaru, also known as Brazilian teak.

We ordered 100 feet of 20-foot-long, 6 x 1-inch boards from Advantage Lumber. On this part of the project, COVID became a factor when the supplier ran out of 6-inch boards, and we had to opt for 51/2-inch. At this point, we had already completed the L-bracket fabrication and drilling; this would mean that the verticals of the L-brackets would stand slightly proud of the tops of the bulwark boards. Not ideal, but it had taken months already just to get the 51/2-inch boards, so we decided to live with it.

While waiting for the wood to arrive, Chris studied scarf joints to choose the best method to join three sections of wood into a single 42-foot board. He settled on a mechanically fastened, plated scarf joint that would be 32 inches long. Hours went into mathematical equations sketched out on his signature yellow legal pad to ensure the cuts would be precise, since we only had one shot at getting this right, or else we would have to order new wood—and who knew how long that would take to be delivered? Once he transferred the sketches to the wood, Chris used an accurate combo square, circular saw, Japanese hand saw, sharp chisels, assorted drill bits, 316 stainless hardware, and marine glue to construct the bulwark plank.

With the help of our friends, we carefully maneuvered the heavy, long, and bendy plank to the L-brackets, where I was quick to secure them with C-clamps. With the bulwark now dry-fitted into place, we stood back and admired how nicely this project had come together. We were thrilled to learn that we would not have to steam the wood to conform to the boat’s shape, which was ultimately a relief despite our elaborate plan to create a steam bag using a thick plastic bag and a turkey fryer for steam.

Sixty-four 316 stainless steel fasteners later, we had bulwarks! The wood completed  Avocet ’s newly improved look, adding a hint of timeless design to her somewhat more modern construct, as well as an admiring nod to one of Chris’ favorite designers, Lyle Hess.

The final pieces were the hawse holes that would replace our prior fairleads, which we felt did not do the overall hull design justice. After Chris sanded, polished, and inset them into the bulwarks, the cast-bronze additions sparkled, beautifully complementing the wood and the boat’s overall look.

When the last hawse hole was in place, we broke free of the docklines that had seemingly weighed us down like shackles and made a mad dash to the Channel Islands so we could enjoy our boat the way she was intended. The water splashed on deck, washing overboard immediately under the bulwark through the slim gap. It was perfect. The bulwark’s height made it easy to safely store jerry cans, fenders, lines, and even the dinghy without the deck looking cluttered.

About The Author

Marissa Neely

Chris and Marissa Neely have been living aboard and upgrading their 1979 Cheoy Lee 41, Avocet, since 2018. Primarily they sail in and around Southern California’s Channel Islands. Follow them at svavocet.com, on other social platforms at @svavocet, and on their YouTube channel called Sailing Avocet.

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Toe Rail Replacement: Teak or Mahogany

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My toe rails were rebuilt with solid glass. You can get as smooth a finish as needed, just needs painting and doesnt look like wood, but it can not rot! You look like you are after a rubbing strip as well. If so I would look at the first one as it is easier to built and repair as need be. regards DC  

Bedding the inside edge of your one piece concept against a deck that seems like it will hold water against the seam, or underneath it, looks like a potential problem to me. Particularly, if you intend to varnish.  

I agree with the glass suggestion...true teak or true mahogany , if you can get them, are out of this world in price...while fake teak may look nice, it isn't as tight grained and does not have the natural oils to preserve itself...faux mahog is the same, looser grain and very prone to holding moisture...if you are insistent on the wood toe rail, you might want to laminate the pieces so they have a rabbit that will fit over the top and laminate them at the top glue joint. To handle the curve, you can't go more than about a half an inch thickness or you will spend your fortune on clamps to hold the darned things together while they dry. (speaking from experience here) If you want another idea, look at clear cedar...it has a nice patina when finished with several coats of poly, won't rot easily, and, though softer, holds up well if you don't beat it too much. You can also screw a piece of matching cedar to the outside and create a rub rail to protect the toe rail when docking or in a slip. Ed Simpson Skipper (when my wife lets me) S/V Das Dawg Haus  

Spar varnish, methinks, not polyurethane.  

I have a Tartan 27 from 1967 that also has a teak toe (and rub) rail (different hull/deck joint though). While it looks nice once finished I believe that using wood, especially expensive wood like teak for your rub rail is a poor choice and use of materials. It cracks easily enough if/when it hits a solid object. Ask me how I know this; which is the reason I've had to replace several sections. For the rub rail portion (outboard) I'd recommend anything but expensive wood like teak or mahogany. In fact some kind of rubberized rub rail would be a more practical solution, IMHO. For the cap rail portion (top side and inboard) you could use a nice wood as this is more visible. It is also not as functional as some of the perforated aluminum cap rails that I have seen on other boats that require little or no maintenance. If you are going to go with wood (of some kind) your idea of fabricating a 1 piece molding in the shape to accommodate the hull deck joint is a non-starter (again my humble opinion). As the wood needs to be bent along the shape of the boat your molding will distort and deform. You would be better off going with 2 or even 3 rectangular shaped pieces to make up your desired shape. That is still going to require a lot of screws, bungs and delicate bending to get it to conform to the shape you want. As mentioned: wood stock of < 1/2" is much easier to bend then thicker stuff unless you want to use a steam box and jig to pre-shape your pieces. I have kept the teak toe/cap rail on our boat as it was originally and it is pretty once attached and finished but you would be surprised at how easily teak can split along the grain. Teak weathers the elements quite well but it is not really suited for this application. Not as good looking but waaay more practical for this application is stuff like this: Crest Aluminum Marine Toerail  

white oak, pretty common, not expensive will turn silver like teak or mahogany, bends well, and can be obtained at sawmills in long lengths. Heavy, but then teak is to.  

There are many woods called mahogany but what is "fake teak"? I wouldn't use cedar as it is really too soft. Iroko would be a good choice if it is available in your area. I would not want wood in that location though as it is hard to keep up and a source of leaks. Fiberglassing it over would eliminate future leaks and require no maintenance.  

Caleb The aluminum toerail you linked to is a good idea but I don't know if one is available that would work with that kind of hull/deck join. I have one but the deck sits on an inward flange of the hull, as all I have seen are designed for. Maybe there is an extrusion available that will work. It would be expensive but a wood toerail will be expensive as well as the labor involved. Denise - white oak only has one problem - if it gets wet it turns black.  

mitiempo said: Caleb The aluminum toerail you linked to is a good idea but I don't know if one is available that would work with that kind of hull/deck join. I have one but the deck sits on an inward flange of the hull, as all I have seen are designed for. Maybe there is an extrusion available that will work. It would be expensive but a wood toerail will be expensive as well as the labor involved. Click to expand...

Look for a sheet metal fab shop in your area. They might be able to make something out of either aluminum or stainless. If done from a sheet and they have a break press long enough you can get 12 foot sections made.  

After due market research in the South Florida region, I'm leaning heavily on Jatoba. It looks like teak (tight grained, absolutely gorgeous), is cheap and locally available (Shell Lumber, Miami is excellent), and most importantly it is highly rot resistant and strong as hell. My only concern is that it will be difficult to bend into shape without cracking given its great density. Anybody have any experience with this wood?  

I've seen boats that replaced rotten teak toerails with recycled material that has the same look as wood but with no maintnance, it bends and hold curves easily. There is a company by me and they sell outdoor furniture made of this material in many different colours from pind to black, could this be and option?  

Aesthetically, my boat needs help where it can get it, also I can't install an aluminum rail as functional as that would be, so I'm planning on wooden toerails.  

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CREST ALUMINUM PRODUCTS CO, INC

Marine toe rail & t-track, replacement aluminum toe rail & t-track, when it comes to replacing old or damaged toe rail, crest aluminum stocks several direct replacement toe rails and many other toe rails that can be easily adapted to fit your application.  we currently stock exact replacements for several models of tartan, c&c, & hunter marine, as well as a few others.  these toe rails are in stock and are typically available to ship within 3-5 business days.  if we don't have the exact rail you are looking for, re-creating or duplicating obsolete or discontinued toe rails is one of our specialties., crest is the worldwide leader for c&c, hunter, o'day, bavaria, cape north, olson, wauquiez pretorien & more  sailboat toe rails, our toe rail and t-track inventory is steadily growing with every new inquiry we receive.  we now offer several different styles of toe rail which are being used for many different applications throughout the world.  from the united states and canada, to europe and the caribbean, crest aluminum has supplied quality new & replacement toe rails to a wide range of customers.  our toe rail and t-track is sold through marine distributors and boat yards.  call us today and let us know how we can help with your next project., in stock toe rail.

Exact replacement toe rails for Tartan, C&C, Hunter Marine, and other sailboat manufacturers are in stock and ready to ship.  If you don't see what you need, we specialize in reproducing discontinued or obsolete toe rails and t-track.

T Track & End Stops

1" and 1¼" T Track offered in two different anodized finishes give you the flexibility to fit many applications.  Genoa car adjustment holes are spaced on 4" centers for maximum control.  Track end stops are available for both tracks preventing cars from sliding off the ends as well as fairing the ends of the rail to help prevent line fouling.

Custom Toe Rail Fabrication

With the large number of boat manufacturers today and the constant tweaking and updating of designs, replacement parts for older model sailboats can sometimes be hard to find.  Duplicating discontinued toe rails has become one of our specialties.  With short lead times, returning your boat back to its original working condition is as simple as sending us a small section of the rail.  Contact us today

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Midship cleat on toe rail?

• Thread starter libraryjeans
• Start date Aug 20, 2021
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

libraryjeans

I just purchased a 1991 Hunter 28. For some reason cleats weren’t mounted midship - which makes single handed docking a challenge. There is a sturdy perforated toe rail. How do other owners cope without a mid cleat and/or any suggestions to add something to the toe rail to act as a cleat?  

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new sailboat!! If it was my sailboat I would install a mid-cleat vs. tieing off from the toe rail using the procedure described in this article: Install Midship Cleats and Dock Like a Pro – The $tingy Sailor (stingysailor.com)  

sail sfbay said: Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new sailboat!! If it was my sailboat I would install a mid-cleat vs. tieing off from the toe rail using the procedure described in this article: Install Midship Cleats and Dock Like a Pro – The $tingy Sailor (stingysailor.com) Click to expand

Sailfanatic

One drawback of adding a cleat to the deck or rail, is it's going to tend to catch the lazy sheet and mess up tacks at the worst time. If you add a cleat, I'd make it a folding or popup cleat. I wonder what the drawback is to simply insert one end of the dockline as a loop through an opening and over the rail, then run the other end through the loop so the dockline is secured to the rail? While the rail-attached end may be subject to a fraying risk, this line doesn't need to be part of the long term tie-up, but just to complete the docking maneuver.  

Garhauer track cleat that goes on the jib track. Really reasonable price, amazing quality and does what you need and can be moved at the start of your sail easily to accomodate jib car movement.  

twistedskipper

IDK but some of these ideas seem OK for use during temporary docking maneuvers, but maybe not for long term docking. I’m just not sure toe rails and genoa tracks are necessarily intended for full time docking loads.  

twistedskipper said: I’m just not sure toe rails and genoa tracks are necessarily intended for full time docking loads. Click to expand

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

I have the garhauer track cleat. NEVER had a problem with hanging up lazy sheet. But if it did, it's very simple to un hang it... The cleat sits on the toe rail, directly beneath the life line.... and if you have genoa sheets running outside the life lines it is almost physically impossible.... But wait.... let's say there is an occasion where hanging up may happen. The simply lift the knob and slide the cleat to a less vulnerable position. You can slide the thing to any place along the track you want. How can you go wrong with that, plus the price is right. That said... I am more apt to use the track mounted cleat for spring lines where the load is fore and aft... rather than a breast line or any other type of connection where the load would be side to side. Just my guess, I have no actual documented evidence to verify my though, I'm just visualizing the leverage over a narrow 1-1.25" base in side to side use, opposed to the 4 or 5 inch base in fore and aft.  

C.S. Johnson Folding Toe Rail Cleat - 48-510

Why not just add mid-ship cleats? A previous owner of my O’Day 322 added them. I use a cabin-top winch and permanently mounted dock line with a loop to motor against to hold me tight against my finger pier. Once I an stable and holding in place, I can jump off the boat and throw on the stern, bow and spring lines (also permanently on the dock). Greg  

Different model boat here, but this is what I did to solve our docking issues: Hunter 42 Owner Modifications and Upgrades  

jssailem said: I like midship cleats. Allows me to single hand my docking without any one needing to "Jump" to the dock. I chose to install a foldable cleat. Uses 1/2" dock line. View attachment 197391 View attachment 197390 Click to expand

VT Fitz said: except when I forget to fold one down and stub my toe anyway! Click to expand

heritage said: I have not used one of these but have read good reviews. Should be perfect for single handed docking and they can be folded out of the way. C.S. Johnson Folding Toe Rail Cleat - 48-510 Features: The C.S. Johnson 48-510 Folding Toe Rail Cleat makes a perfect easily movable, mid-ship cleat for spring lines, fenders etc. Applications: Fits Most Aluminum Toe Rails Cleat Folds Out of the Way Fits most symmetric and asymmetri www.defender.com Click to expand

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