4.4 out of 5 stars
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Customer reviews.
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Customers like the functionality, design, and build quality of the product. They mention it works great, is unique, and is well-made. Some appreciate the value for money and release speed.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers like the build quality of the product. They mention it's well-made, reliable, and secure.
"...all parts allows the clip to release easily under load, but maintain its load securely until ready to release...." Read more
"...Thanks for a superior design and strong materials ." Read more
"...The snap shackle releases very easy but holds very good . No accidental opens. I used it on a house fire and it work just as I expected it to." Read more
"...the cross-pin will not fully engage, meaning the shackle strength is substantially compromised ...." Read more
Customers are satisfied with the functionality of the product. They mention it works well and has been very useful. Some also say the snap shackle works well.
" Work great and look great." Read more
"...This is a clear exception. These are a work of art, and they function perfectly ...." Read more
"Ordered four of these release shackles. Two of them work fine right out of the box , smooth release when loaded and the cross-pin returns with good..." Read more
"...It has improved my “mask up” time by several seconds and has been very useful ...." Read more
Customers appreciate the design of the product. They say it's unique and not fancy.
"Work great and look great ." Read more
"...This is a clear exception. These are a work of art , and they function perfectly...." Read more
"...Thanks for a superior design and strong materials." Read more
" Unique , hard to find item that does exactly what it is designed to do. Nice to have these kinds of products available out there." Read more
Customers like the release speed of the product. They say it's easy to activate and maintains its load securely. Customers also mention it'll release easily under load and is easy to pull. They mention the quick disconnect feature is great for use around their new boat.
"Smooth finish on all parts allows the clip to release easily under load , but maintain its load securely until ready to release...." Read more
"...Quick release is just easy enough to activate that I've never had an accidental release . Thanks for a superior design and strong materials." Read more
"...It’s easy to pull (I added shoe string so I could pull the snap open). The snap shackle releases very easy but holds very good. No accidental opens...." Read more
"...Two of them work fine right out of the box, smooth release when loaded and the cross-pin returns with good spring tension.The other two?..." Read more
Customers appreciate the value for money of the product. They mention it's inexpensive and a great product.
"...Eye Snap Shackle Quick Release Bail are very well made and the price is exceptional ." Read more
" Excellent price , good quality and perfect for small sailboats." Read more
"Wow! Super nice, and inexpensive too !" Read more
" Great product ..." Read more
Customers are satisfied with the smooth operation of the product. They mention the smooth finish on all parts allows the clip to release easily under load.
" Smooth finish on all parts allows the clip to release easily under load, but maintain its load securely until ready to release...." Read more
" Smooth action both locking and unlocking under load. I spliced on to a nylon line and knotted paracord on the release pin...." Read more
"Nice finish, smooth operation . Ordering more." Read more
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Shackles are often under high load. If one shakes open, the result could be dangerous. Chris Beeson shows how to make sure it won’t
This spinnaker block shackle somehow managed to hang on by jamming itself in place, but it wouldn’t endure actual use Credit: Graham Snook/YM
RYA Yachtmaster Chris Beeson has raced and cruised over 40,000 ocean miles in his 37 years as a sailor
I used to be doubtful about the necessity of seizing shackles. Nip the pin up tight with a shackle key or pliers and how can it possibly come loose? My mind was changed in 2011, while checking the rig of the old Jeanneau we used in our Crash Test Boat series. This was the rather concerning sight we found at the masthead.
The spinnaker block shackle’s pin had shaken itself free. Had we hoisted and flown an offwind sail, it would have draped itself expensively over the bow, possibly tearing itself in the process, as soon as the halyard chafed through on its mast exit.
What if a shackle securing a cruising chute sheet turning block rattled itself loose? You would have all the load in the sheet firing a block across the cockpit with potentially lethal consequences.
The problem is that boats are subject to a lot of vibration. Wind through the rigging creates vibration, current across an anchor chain creates vibration, engines cause vibration, so does sailing into waves. Shackle pins will work themselves free and problems will result. To prevent them doing so, we seize them.
We use one of three methods of seizing, or securing, the pin to ensure that it simply can’t loosen. One is using threadlock, which glues the pin in place but not with ‘super-glue’ adhesion so it can still be undone with standard tools.
A second method is using electrical cable ties, though it is worth remembering that these are subject to UV degradation and probably won’t last more than a season if they’re always out in the sun. The third method, the gold standard method of seizing shackles, is to use Monel wire. That isn’t subject to UV degradation and has excellent corrosion resistance properties.
Seizing shackles
We used Loctite 243 Blue, but search online for ‘threadlock’ if you want to see a range of alternative products that will do the job just as well as this one
Apply the threadlock to the thread of the shackle pin. It’s not very viscous, so make sure you’ve got something down to protect the deck from any drips
Once you’ve got good coverage on the entire thread, screw the shackle pin into the shackle, again watching out for any drips
Use pliers or a shackle key to nip up the shackle as tight as you can. This will help the glue to adhere without any risk of movement
This is the finished result. It’s the quickest and neatest of the methods and there’s no external seizing to foul on anything. Very tidy
This is the only method of seizing available if you are using the flush-pin type of shackle that’s often found in ground tackle set-ups
Cable ties are cheap to buy online or from many hardware shops. Thread it through the pin’s hole, then through the shackle’s loop
Next push the tie through the ratchet lock and pull it up as tight as you can. This will prevent the shackle pin from unscrewing itself
To make the cable tie seizing as compact as possible, use pliers to pull the tie through the ratchet lock as tight as you can manage
Snip off the excess length of tie leaving only a very short stub, to reduce any risk of the tie fouling or chafing on anything. It looks much neater, too
The finished article. It’s the quickest, simplest method and a good short-term solution. ideal for shackles that need to be undone occasionally over the course of the season
Here we see a cable tie seize on a shackle used to connect anchor and chain. It’s exposed to the sun, so is likely to become brittle from UV degradation after a year or so
To start, with the shackle pin nipped up tight, cut a piece of wire about 15cm (6in) long and hold 5cm (2in) of it under the side of the shackle
Poke the wire up through the hole in the shackle pin then down through the shackle itself and repeat so you have two loops of wire around the shackle and through the pin
Use pliers to tighten the wire as much as you can to snug down the seizing onto the shackle. This helps to prevent any movement in the wire
With the second loop of wire wrapped and tightened, use pliers to twist the two ends of the wire together, again keeping it tight
Once you have got five or six twists on the ends, snip off the excess wire, press the twist against the shackle body and you’re done
This is Monel wire seizing on a spinnaker halyard block shackle. It’s a strong and durable solution for shackles that you can’t inspect regularly
Currency: GBP
Lifejacket accessories.
Clothing guide.
Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG
Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08
Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25
Clearance Sarca Excel Anchors £294.00
Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00
Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £0.00
Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48
Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.
Jimmy Green Marine offer a comprehensive choice of rigging shackles and end fittings providing ergonomic, secure terminal solutions for all manner of running rigging applications.
Select the type you require based on:
Is it for a sheet/control line or a halyard ? How quickly and easily you wish the shackle to fasten and unfasten ? How temporary/permanent is the sheet or halyard attachment Is there a possibility that the shackle will need to be released under load ? Is weight a factor ? Are you interested in a 'soft' solution ? Is extra purchase required to increase the tension for performance purposes ? Do you want to avoid losing the shackle pin when attaching the sail ? Rigging shackles for rope and wire rope are available in different designs to suit different uses:
Snap shackles are most popular in marine grade stainless steel but are also available in traditional bronze and specialist light weight nylon
Jimmy Green offer a choice of top manufacturers: Wichard, Tylaska, Navtec (limited availability) Brookes & Adams (Bronze) and Nab (plastic) together with a non branded range manufactured in marine grade stainless steel sourced from our UK partners Proboat
Fixed or Swivel Fixed eye is generally recommended where the application is not required to rotate – ideal for e.g. genoa halyard/sheet Swivel eye allows the rope to rotate when subjected to an alteration in the angle of the load induced by, for example, gybing. Ideal for spinnaker halyard/sheet.
Side or Top Opening For most applications, Side Opening is the norm. Top Opening allows the shackle to be released under load without snagging on the shackle arm e.g. Spinnaker/Gennaker Sheets and Guys.
Quick Release Designed so that the arm can be released under load with a yank/tug on a lanyard attached to the release mechanism
Trigger Latch Option For quick and safe release of heavy loads while under tension - requires a fid or tool to insert into the release mechanism.
As the name suggests, these Dee shaped shackles are designed so that when the pin is unfastened from the first lug, it is still held/trapped by the second lug. A (removable) bar is also recommended so that the shackle is secured to the head of the sail. Ideal for main halyard
Removable and adjustable rope loops constructed from 12 strand Dyneema are excellent for headsail sheets – light weight, kind to hands and much less likely to cause physical harm to the crew when the clew is flogging violently.
Stainless steel snap shackles, tylaska snap shackles, wichard high resistance captive, key pin and bar shackle, tylaska halyard shackles, jimmy green dyneema spliced loops, wichard hr quick release snap shackles, clearance tylaska j-lock shackles.
£199.00 -30%
Bronze fixed eye snap shackles, bronze swivel eye snap shackles, wichard hr speedlink snap shackles.
07446433013
Whether you are refitting spars and rigging or simply tuning up, we offer a comprehensive and competitive service.
Seahorse Yacht Rigging can take your project from design to completion and we welcome your input.
At Seahorse Yacht rigging we have Extensive experience in the mast and rigging industry and believe in quality products, excellent service and customer satisfaction, every time.
We are suppliers of some of the world's best marine product manufacturers including: Antal | Selden | Lewmar | Harken | Splinlock
So whether you are replacing a shackle or an entire rig, our expertise means you can rely on the advice offered, the work undertaken and the products supplied. Our fully trained staff are all sailors and have a wealth of experience both on and off the water.
This combination of industry training and practical experience means we understand your needs and are committed to finding a solution that suits you.
Our search for high-strength shackles yields some surprising data..
In our recent investigation into anchor shackles, Anchor Shackles, the $15 Insurance Policy (PS August 2015 online), we were aware that our sampling lacked statistical validity. Testing one shackle sampled at random and finding that it meets specification offers some reassurance, but no guarantee. Likewise, a single failure in such a narrow test does not necessarily indict the whole product line. After reading this report, you should also look at our more recent update, which addresses some concerns raised by manufacturers as well as their responses, with their own follow-up testing.
In this report, we continue our investigation into shackles, re-testing one shackle that fell below the makers specifications, Canada Metal Pacifics black-pin Titan shackle, and testing for the first time a widely used shackle from West Marine. We also offer our initial findings on two stainless-steel shackles: the Tecni-lift 316 bow shackle and a no-name stainless-steel shackle marked Hong Kong, which is representative of the many generic stainless shackles youll find in hardware stores and some chandleries.
We also tested an Omega-type shackle that had been treated with the Armorgalv process and fitted with a G100 pin that also was treated with Armorgalv. As we described in our recent report Armorgalv vs. Hot-dipped (PS March 2015 online), the Armorgalv coating process protects high-ferrous, quench-and-tempered steel in sea water, but it doesn’t reduce the metals strength like hot-dip galvanizing can.
While we’d like to test dozens of shackles at once, this would prove too unwieldy, so our shackle testing is ongoing, and there will be future published updates.
For further details on each of the products were reporting on here, as well as those from the last test that are featured in the accompanying Value Guides, be sure to read the August 2015 shackles report . We also encourage you to read our other previous articles on shackles, which you can find by searching for shackles at www.practical-sailor.com .
The maximum size of your anchor shackle is limited by the size of your anchor-chain links. When you are choosing shackles, the surest way to ensure that you are getting the right size is to take a few connected links of chain with you to the chandlery and make sure the shackle pin actually fits the hole. The most common types of anchor chain BBB, G30, G43, and metric chain all have varying chain-link hole sizes for ostensibly the same diameter (thickness) wire. Shackles of the same nominal size also vary; even the shackle-pin diameter varies. Take nothing at face value-test it out first. When buying chain in bulk, some vendors allow you to order chain with oversized links at each end, making it easier fit the larger shackle pins; this is a good option for those who prefer G43 chain.
The other critical factor is strength. Ideally, the shackle should be stronger than the anchor chain. However, achieving this becomes difficult once you start moving into chains rated G43 or higher. The 3/8-inch shackles we look at here should fit common 5/16-inch proof-tested chain stamped G30 (7,600 lbs. nominal breaking strength) or G43 chain (11,400 lbs. nominal breaking strength). For more on chain standards and breaking strengths, including those for metric chains, see Making Sense of Chain Standards .
However, safety margin becomes even smaller when the effects of side-loading are taken into account.
When the shackle pin or body is loaded from an angle, the shackle body can be forced open, causing the pin to break or fall out. This is the most common failure we have seen in our tests-even though our test involved a straight pull. According to warnings posted by several manufacturers, a 45-degree side load can reduce the shackles rated strength by 25 percent, and a 90-degree load can reduce it by 50 percent.
Fortunately, high quality shackles have a safety factor of between 4:1 to 6:1, meaning the actual failure point is four to six times greater than the rated working load; so, in theory, a good shackle is capable of handling side loads.
How do we identify a good shackle? In the U.S., shackle standards are spelled out in RR-C-271F, Federal Specification for Chains and Attachments, Carbon and Alloy Steel. In this report, we are focusing mostly on Class 2 (screw-pin) shackles that meet or exceed RR-C-271F IVA Grade B Class 2 specifications.
Other classes will meet these working load requirements- Class 3 shackles, secured with bolt, nut and cotter-pin instead of a screw pin, for example-but the essential nomenclature here, is Grade B. This grade has twice the strength of the more common Grade A shackle. (Makes no sense to us either, but B is Better.)
All of our break testing was carried out at Robertsons ( www.lifting.com.au ), a commercial rigging supplier and approved testing facility near Newcastle, Australia. We followed a typical protocol for shackle testing: pulling the shackle to yield and then to breaking point, with data recorded continuously. Results were portrayed graphically, showing load versus extension, and ultimate tensile stress at failure.
Our findings, illustrated in the accompanying tables, are summarized below. To quickly review, in our 2015 tests, shackles from Peerless, Crosby, Campbell (all Grade B shackles), and CMP (a yellow pin, Grade A type shackle) all met their own specifications, but our test of CMPs black-pin shackle (Grade B type shackle) fell about 10 percent short of CMPs own specification.
Failure of all five of these shackles was in the shackle pins. The pins sheared at the thread (the thinnest point), where the pin entered the threaded eye. There was some distortion of the shackle body, but not significant, and some of this distortion might have been caused after the pin sheared. We saw a similar pattern of failure in this round of tests. For comparative purposes, the results of the previous test are shown in the Value Guides, along with the current test results.
The second Canada Metals Pacific (CMP) black-pin shackle-bought six months after we tested the first shackle-failed in exactly the same way at a very similar load: 19,723 pounds. CMPs specifications state a minimum breaking strength of 22,000 pounds, so this shackle also underperformed CMPs own specs by about 10 percent. However, it was close enough to Grade B specs (20,000 lbs. breaking strength) to be within a reasonable margin for error.
Although CMPs black-pin shackles have a higher rated working load limit and minimum breaking strength (4,400 pounds / 22,000 pounds) than its yellow-pin shackles (2,200 pounds / 13,200 pounds), we could find no other difference beside the pin color. Both failed at approximately the same loads (within 10 percent). This means that the yellow-pin shackle is much stronger than its rating, and the black-pin is slightly weaker.
Bottom line: Canada Metals Pacific is looking into our findings and commissioning independent testing. We look forward to learning what its experts find and will be carrying out further testing on our own.
The second galvanized shackle we tested from West Marine was marked WLL 1t CHINA 3/8. It was purchased at a West Marine in West Islip, N.Y., on Long Island. Breaking at 13,671 pounds, the shackle met West Marines specification of a maximum breaking strength of 12,000 pounds, but it demonstrated severe extension and distortion prior to breaking. The shackle bow broke, and the threads on the shackle pin stripped, allowing the pin to pull out of the eye. Both the bow and the clevis pin were distorted.
The shackles behavior under load was unlike any others in the test. It began distorting almost immediately as load was applied. Given what we know about anchor loads (see Anchor Testing and Rode Loads, PS May 2012 online), it seemed likely that this distortion could occur during use. Grade B shackles from CMP, Peerlift, Campbell, and Crosby-showed no measurable permanent distortion until loads exceeded 50 percent of breaking strength.
Bottom line: We do not recommend using the galvanized West Marine shackle in any high-load application, and we especially advise against using one in an anchor rode.
Stainless steel is a poor material choice for anchor shackles, in our view, and our recent test supported this. If, for some inexplicable reason, you insist on using a stainless shackle in your anchor rode, keep in mind that sizes and safety factors vary widely, so comparing working load limits can be misleading. For example, Harkens stainless-steel bow shackle has a safety factor of 2:1, while Petersens safety factor is 6:1. The range for galvanized shackles, by comparison, is between 4:1 and 6:1.
The stainless shackles all showed a high degree of elongation, and we are concerned that shackles with such distortion would be more susceptible to side loading than the high-tensile, galvanized shackles. Although we did not test side loading on any of the shackles, it seems obvious that once a shackle begins to elongate under side loading, strain is concentrated at the shackle pin and threads, increasing the likelihood of failure there.
Given the low yield point of 316 stainless-steel shackles, we expected them to deform more easily than the galvanized shackles. The effect it had on the shackle pins was severe; the threads and the recessed head of our sample shackle became so elongated that it pulled right through. Out of curiosity, we also tested some 316 stainless chain, which again distorted almost immediately as load was applied.
Bottom line: Given the behavior of these two samples, we simply can’t recommend 316 chain or shackles anywhere in the anchor rode assembly.
The Tecni 10-millimeter recessed head bow shackle is sold with a minimum break strength of 9,479 pounds, but it failed after severe distortion at only 7,537 pounds. The bow was converted to an elongated U; the shackle pin was severely distorted. The pins recessed head-designed to make it easier to roll over a bow roller, we presume-pulled right out of its eye, and the threaded end of the pin almost pulled out of the eye and then sheared. The Tecni, like the West Marine shackle, started to deform almost as soon as load was applied.
Bottom line: This shackle was a disappointment in testing. It is possible that it would deform in heavy use and would need to be cut off.
The generic 3/8-inch, 316 stainless-steel bow shackle that our tester bought in the back streets of Hong Kong fared marginally better than the Tecni. It achieved a breaking strength of 13,902 pounds (commendable for an unbranded shackle of this size), but like the other stainless hardware we tested, it started to deform almost immediately as load was applied. It eventually failed when the shackle pin sheared at the thread/eye interface.
Bottom line: It bears repeating: Dont use a stainless-steel shackle in the anchor rode, particularly one of unknown origins.
Part of the aim of this project is to uncover marine-ready shackles that might be paired with the small-diameter, high-strength chains rated at G70, G80, or higher. These chains, commonly used in lifting applications, are attractive to some cruisers who like the idea of a chain rode, but not the added weight it brings. The logic behind this quest raises several questions (see Pencil Thin Anchor Rode , PS June 2016), but in the interest of science-and requests from our readers-we press on.
One of the most promising shackle designs for this purpose was the G80 Omega-link that is commonly used in lifting. We sourced ours from Van Beest. Because these arent available galvanized, we had to galvanize the link ourselves, using the Armorgalv process. It fared well enough in the first test to inspire more experimentation.
This time, to make the link even stronger, we used a G100 pin. It was the sort of backyard project that makes manufacturers of lifting equipment cringe, but perhaps someone will introduce a factory solution that passes muster with risk management.
Our Armorgalv-treated, G80 Omega link with G100 pin showed very little distortion, just as we had found in previous test. The mouth of the Omega opened slightly, and the shackle pin sheared. The ultimate breaking load of this hybrid unit was much higher than the chain it was paired with-so you could say it exceeded our expectations.
Bottom line: For the boat owner who is intent on downsizing to a super-strong, lightweight chain, it appears that an Omega link is a viable option. This intermediate link provides a means of attaching a large, high-strength shackle to a G43 (or even a smaller G70 or G80) chain, without adding a weak link-so to speak. The downside is that until someone comes out with a marine-ready version, the owner would need to arrange galvanizing. The Armorgalv process is the only one weve tested and found suitable for these grade materials.
All of our testing was conducted with straight-line pulls, using curved load-bearing surfaces concentrated in the center of the shackle pin. In real life, anchor shackles are loaded unevenly-concentrated at one end of the pin, for example-and the slots in anchor shanks are often flat and sharp, creating point loads on the shackle. Modern anchors can set so well that they don’t align with the chain when the wind changes direction, creating an uneven load on the shackle. In other words, a shackle that deforms easily during our simple test will be much more vulnerable in the real world.
Admittedly, our test with just a few samples of each shackle is not a statistically valid representation of the thousands shipped each year, but because our test was such a cakewalk in comparison to the real world, we think the results are cause for concern.
We have now tested two CMP black-pin shackles that have failed below CMPs rated load. The shackle failed at loads close to that of its competitors, but we see no reason to condone using this shackle when others that live up to their billing are available. There are many possible explanations as to why any product does not meet a manufacturers rating. Because rated strength is such an essential part of a shackles value, consumers deserve to get an accurate number for rated strength.
Even more concerning is the West Marine shackle. This is shackle has all the appearance of a good product. It is embossed with the load rating and sold through a reputable merchant. But if we respect the warnings about side-loading (a reduction of 50-percent strength, or more), this shackle is unfit for service in the anchor rode, in our opinion. We contacted West Marine with our findings. At presstime, West Marine was working with Fasco, the shackle supplier, to conduct further testing. We look forward to their findings.
To their credit, West Marine has been very supportive of our testing program. They have also been very responsive when weve raised red flags. When PS discovered that Rocna (under its former manufacturer, not CMP) was misrepresenting the materials used in its anchor shank, West Marine was the only major retailer to set up an exchange program. We expect that the company again will do the right thing. In our opinion, this shackle should not be marketed as a ground-tackle accessory until other independent testing proves it is up to the task.
The take away bit of wisdom here is that if you are looking for an anchor shackles, specify Grade B shackles from Peerless (Peerlift, Grade B), Crosby (G209 A), and Campbell (Grade B). These shackles are all proof tested by their manufacturers, and we’ve found no reason not to have faith in them. (CMP also proof tests its shackles, so we were somewhat surprised at our findings.) Although we did not test the Peerless shackle in the 3/8-inch size, other Peerless shackles have performed well in our tests. We will be answering the question of strength once and for all soon, when we put it on the test bench.
For lower-load situations, CMPs yellow-pin Titan shackles are fine-they performed well over specification-but not so well as to recommend them over Peerless, Crosby, and Campbell Grade B shackles for anything but moderate-load service above the waterline.
For those who are dead-set on converting to G70 chain, the Omega shackles look promising. Until it is manufacturer-approved, though, we can’t endorse its use for such a critical application.
If you have a shackle story to share-good or bad-let us know at [email protected] .
The above 3/8-inch shackles should fit common 5/16-inch proof-tested chain stamped G30 (7,600 lbs. nominal breaking strength) or G43 chain (11,400 lbs. nominal breaking strength). For more on chain standards and breaking strengths, including those for metric chains, see Making Sense of Chain Standards, which accompanies the online version of this article.
Galvanized shackles are our first preference for use in anchor rodes, but not all galvanized shackles are created equal.
Look for Grade B shackles from reputable manufacturers that have clearly stated working load limits embossed on the shackle itself. Be wary of unfamiliar retail sources and cheap-looking copies.
1. This Titan black-pin 3/8-inch shackle from Canada Metals Pacific failed slightly below the maker’s rated load, but it did not distort. 2. This no-name shackle of unknown origin was sent to us by a reader. It failed at the pin threads, possibly when side loaded. 3. This image shows two Campbell shackles side-by-side. The one on the left has been used for several seasons. The one on the right showed minimal distortion even at 21,000 pounds. 4. The elongated West Marine shackle behaved unlike any other. It held to its rated load, but severely distorted. 5. This shackle, sent by a reader, failed at the bow when his anchor struck the roller. It appears to be of a cheap metal and failed because of corrosion.
Stainless steel has as many faults as it has good features, as we discussed back in 2007 (see “ Marine Metal Warning ,” PS February 2007 online.)
The metal is susceptible to crevice corrosion, and its silvery facade can hide fatal flaws. Its tendency to elongate makes it a poor choice for an anchor shackle. Why take the risk, when more affordable options are available?
1. We tested using a straight pull. A side pull can reduce strength by as much as 50 percent. 2. Flush pins look slick, but . . . This Tecni shackle pin pulled right out at less than its rated load. 3. The no-name, stainless-steel shackle from China showed a great deal of elongation. 4. Some shackles, like the one on left in this photo, are modified post production. At right is the original.
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Latest sailboat review.
UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2023
by Robert Ceran
While small perch are usually easy to catch (and abundant in most lakes), bigger perch over 1 to 2 pounds are much harder to target, and require more skill from the angler.
But no matter if you want to catch your limit of panfish-sized perch, or if you want to hook a trophy perch or two, it’s essential to know what rigs to use for perch fishing, in order to improve your chances of success.
Table of Contents
Here I’ll cover the best perch rigs that you need to know. I’ll also discuss how to tie each of them, how to use them, and what purpose each of them is ideally suited for.
The best perch fishing rigs are:
Perch pounder rig.
Each of these perch rigs comes with its own set of strengths and weaknesses, and we’ll walk you through each of them below.
We’ll also give you a recommendation on what these perch fishing setups are best suited for, so you can decide which rig is best for you.
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This is by far the easiest perch rig to tie, and is usually worth trying out first, since it allows you to get a sense of what the fish are keyed into before you try more complex perch fishing setups.
How to tie it : If you’re using fluorocarbon or monofilament as your main line, you don’t need to tie a leader, and can just tie your main line directly to a 1/8 to 1/4 oz jig head (either plain metal, or a colored jig head is fine).
But if you’re using braid as your main line, you’ll need to tie a 2 foot long 6 to 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader.
Berkley Power Minnow
My favorite soft plastic bait for perch, pre-rigged onto a jig head (2″ size is ideal for perch).
After tying the jig head to your line, thread on a soft plastic lure, such as a grub tail or paddle tail swimbait. Personally, I like to use Berkley power minnows with this rig, since they have the perfect action.
Another great thing about this perch fishing setup is that you can easily switch out the soft plastic lure to test different shapes, sizes, and colors.
How to use it : As with all yellow perch rigs, you should aim to keep them very close to the bottom during retrieval.
So after casting your jig with a jigging rod , wait for it to reach the bottom before you start retrieving it, and regularly pause during retrieval to let it sink back to the bottom.
Experiment with different retrieval speeds and cadences, until you find something that triggers bites.
When to use it : The jig rig is a great search bait, which you can use to cover a lot of water in search of feeding perch.
It’s also a great option if you’re not getting any bites on a live bait rig, or if you’re not sure if there are any fish around.
Keep on moving around until your find a school of fish, and then experiment with different baits and presentation techniques.
This is one of the best perch rigs for live bait , and also one of the best setups to use from shore. I like to set up a deadstick with a slip bobber rig, while casting a lure with my active rod.
How to tie it : It’s best to start by threading a bobber stopper onto your line, followed by a plastic bead (which prevents the bobber stop from getting stuck inside the bobber), and then the slip bobber.
Since perch don’t respond well to a lot of resistance when they take a bait, it’s best to use a relatively thin finesse bobber when fishing for perch.
Underneath the bobber, pinch on some split shot weights to stop the bobber from sliding down all the way, and then tie the line to a swivel.
Finally, tie a 6 to 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader to the swivel, and a size 2 to 4 bait hook (or micro jig head) to the other end of the leader.
How to use it : When using the slip bobber rig, it’s important to adjust your depth setting to about 6 inches above the bottom, since this is the primary strike zone for perch.
Once you’ve determined the right depth, bait the hook with a minnow or a worm, cast out your perch live bait rig, and wait for bites.
When to use it : This perch float rig is a great option to use from shore, since you can cast it out and wait for fish to pass by and take your bait.
You can also use this perch bait rig from a boat, but keep in mind that if you’re drifting, the depth of the bottom will tend to change all the time, which makes it harder to keep your bait presentation close to the bottom.
The drop shot rig was originally developed as a finesse rig for bass, but has now become one of the most popular perch rigs, since it provides anglers with an amazingly sensitive and lightweight presentation that targets exactly the right depth of the water column.
How to tie it : Start by tying a size 2 to 6 drop shot hook to your line ( here’s a great video tutorial on how to do that). Next, clip on a 1/4 to 1/8 oz drop shot weight to the line underneath the hook, and then add a soft plastic bait to the hook, as shown in the image above.
One of the advantages of this perch rig setup is that you can adjust the position of the weight on the line, which allows you to easily change the depth of your bait presentation.
How to use it : Cast out your rig, and wait for the weight to sink to the bottom. Then use subtle movements of your rod tip to twitch the lure without actually lifting the weight off the bottom.
Do this for a couple of minutes in each spot before reeling in a few feet of line and repeating the process.
When to use it : The drop shot rig is great when you’ve found a location with lots of fish, since it allows you to fish in one spot until you get a bite, without having to continuously retrieve the lure.
It’s also great because you can key in on a very specific depth where perch are active.
While the ned rig superficially resembles the jig rig, it has a different and very characteristic action in the water, which makes it highly effective for catching perch.
How to tie it : Tie this perch rig the same way that you would tie a jig rig, but using a mushroom jig head instead of a regular round jig head.
Also, when choosing a soft plastic bait to use with the ned rig, it’s essential to choose one that is specifically designed for ned rigging, and that floats in the water.
How to use it : Cast out the ned rig, and retrieve it slowly, pausing for a few seconds every time the ned rig reaches the bottom.
The distinguishing feature of the this yellow perch fishing rig is that the combination of using a mushroom jig head with a floating plastic bait results in its tail standing up straight every time you let the ned rig sink to the bottom.
Perch seem to find this action irresistible, and you’ll often experience getting bites when your jig is sitting on the bottom.
When to use it : You can use this perch rig as a search bait setup, or you can use it on finicky fish that don’t respond to other presentations. It’s especially effective when the perch are pressured, and if they’re not used to seeing a ned rig.
The Carolina rig is one of the most versatile bottom fishing rigs in the world, and works well for a variety of species, including perch.
How to tie it : Thread a bullet sinker onto your main line, followed by a plastic bead, and then tie your line to a swivel. The plastic bead prevents the weight from getting stuck on the swivel, or damaging the knot.
Next, tie on a 1 to 2 foot fluoro leader, and they tie that to a size 2 to 4 worm hook , which is designed for weedless rigging of a soft plastic bait. You can choose from a wide variety of soft plastics, including minnow, shad or worm imitations.
How to use it : Cast this perch rig setup out and wait for the weight to reach the bottom. Then give it another 10 to 20 seconds before reeling in a couple of feet, and pausing again.
Every time you pause this perch rig, the plastic bait (which doesn’t have any weight except the hook) sinks slowly down towards the bottom, and this is usually what triggers bites.
Perch bites on the Carolina rig can be quite subtle, so you really need to pay attention to soft taps or tugs. If you do feel a bite, reel in until you feel resistance, and then set the hook.
Braided line is the best choice as your main line for this perch rig, since it provides the most sensitivity in terms of being able to feel what’s going on with your hook and sinker.
When to use it : the Carolina rig is a great option for fishing from shore or from boat, and I like to use it when yellow perch aren’t responding to other presentations, since this rig can trigger bites from finicky pressured perch.
The perch pounder rig is ideal for vertical fishing from a boat, and works best in relatively deep water.
How to tie it : Use one piece of leader line to tie the entire rig. Since you don’t want the side arms of this perch rig to constantly get tangled up with the main line, it’s best to use a relatively heavy fluorocarbon line of about 15 to 20 lb test, which is quite stiff.
Tie a loop in the leader line by folding a loop back on itself and then tying several overhand knots.
After pulling this tight, cut one of the arms of the loop, which results in a straight piece of line sticking out from the leader.
Thread one or two beads onto this line, and then tie on a size 4 to 8 bait hook.
Next, repeat this process by tying a second loop about 8 inches below the first loop, and also add beads and a bait hook to this one.
Then cut off the leader line about 12 inches below the second hook, and tie it to a heavy 1 oz sinker.
In the last step, cut off the leader above the top hook, and tie it to a swivel, which you can use to tie it to your main line.
How to use it : The best way to use this perch rig is for vertical fishing from a boat in deep water of 50 feet or more, and it is one of the best rigs to target big perch in this kind of setting.
Bait the two hooks with live minnows (which is why this perch rig is also known as the ‘double minnow rig’), and lower the rig down to the bottom from your boat.
When you find a big school of yellow perch, it’s not uncommon to get double hook ups with this perch rig.
When to use it : The perch pounder rig was originally developed for catching perch in deep water in the great lakes, where conventional setups don’t work so well.
However, it works just as well in any lakes that have deep water where big schools of perch like to hold, and since it’s designed for vertical fishing, it makes a great ice fishing rig for perch as well.
The best perch rig is the drop shot rig, since it is an ideal all-around setup for targeting perch with a lightweight lure or bait presentation close to the bottom.
Unlike bass, perch tend to require more finesse (especially in pressured lakes), which explains why the drop shot rig is so effective for catching them.
Another advantage of using a drop shot setup is that you can use this rig for both vertical fishing from a boat, or for casting from shore.
With that being said, each of the perch rigs discussed above can be the best option to use in some circumstances. Also, keep in mind that the simplest rigs are the jig rig and the Ned rig, which are therefore great options to use as search baits to find schools of fish.
Once you find a good spot with a school of perch, you should then go on to experiment with the other perch rig setups, in order to find what rig works best for you.
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Table of contents:, varieties of products, selecting the staple size, terms of use and storage.
2024 Author : David Durham | [email protected] . Last modified: 2023-12-16 02:26
Today, rigging shackles are used for loading and unloading operations, as well as for transporting goods. Their main purpose is to securely fix and connect parts of lifting devices and mechanisms. Taking into account the serious loads on these products at all stages of their operation, high-quality brackets must necessarily comply with foreign operational norms and Russian standards.
Staples are classified by material of manufacture, design features, and geometric shape.
There are such varieties:
GOST requirements clearly regulate:
You should carefully consider the choice of lifting shackles. It is necessary to pay attention to the size of the load lines for which the fasteners are intended. Take into account the thickness of the pin, the sling, as well as the distance between the fixing element and the free section of the cable.
Basic rules for choosing a staple:
For operation, in accordance with safety standards and requirements, products that do not have visible distortions, as well as rust and other external defects, are allowed.
Separately, you must inspect the head of the finger or pin. It should not have any distortions. Necessarily its tight fit to the supporting lateral surface of the element. The threaded fixing parts must be threaded. If it is torn off, the bracket cannot be used.
In the process of regular use, the parts of the staples that are subject to friction must be lubricated, as well as the grooves of the lugs and pins.
For long-term use, it is important to pay attention to the overall thickness of the product. When wear is more than 10%, the bracket is written off.
Storing rigging staples requires additional lubrication and a dry and well-ventilated area to avoid corrosion. If staples were stored in a warehouse, they must be freed from excess grease and carefully inspected before use.
Storage for fur coats and storage for books. meeting of the joint expert working group, 24 august.
On August 24, the following were presented for discussion: the project of the RSL book depository on the site of the Vozdvizhensky Monastery (Sergei Tkachenko), the communal center for the Presidential Administration next to Yesenin's new museum, as well as the House of Satsivi next to the Oktyabrskaya metro pavilion, which is the only , and was previously agreed
Dear colleagues, we invite you to attend the JUNG seminar on the topic: "The use of JUNG products in the field of architecture and design", which will be held on May 28 within the framework of the XIV International Exhibition of Architecture and Design in the Central House of Artists. Date and time: May 28, 2009 from 15:00 to 17:00 Venue: Moscow, press center of the Central House of Artists Request to confirm participation: +7 (495) 620-36-28 + 7 (495) 518-45-89alisa @ jung-russia.ru Contact person: Ptashkina Alisa Seminar program 15: 00 Seminar start 15: 00
Promotion terms: What are we looking for? DORMA entrance group (revolving door, automatic sliding door, automatic swing door). Where? Shopping centers, airports, train stations, hotels, office buildings, hospitals, schools. What should be done? 1) We saw DORMA - take a photo of the building so that the entrance lobby is visible and post the photo with DORMA products on Instagram, Facebook, VK or LinkedIN, specifying two hashtags # archidorma #dorma and writing the name of the object. 2) Collect the most
Sliding doors to order can be purchased in Moscow from the Kupeteka company. Manufacturing materials are purchased from the world's most famous brands
Modern designers quite often use soft wall panels when decorating a room. Such a solution looks especially organic in a home or office interior
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Looking over the running rigging aboard PS Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo's Ericson 41, Wind Shadow—which has been revamped three times in almost 40 years of ownership—we realized that the silicon-bronze screw type mainsail halyard shackle was part of the boat's original kit when launched. The reason it's still in use today has ...
2 11/16" L Stainless Steel Standard S-Bail Snap Shackle. 3 5/8" L Stainless Steel Standard S-Bail Snap Shackle. 4 3/4" X 1" Stainless Steel Large Bail Snap Shackle. CONTACT WEST MARINE. Live Chat. Store Locator. Equip your sailboat with high-quality sailing shackles, snaps, and fittings.
Nautical shackles come in various designs, allowing you to connect your rigging systems and lift loads from different directions. Shackles are the connecting piece within rigging systems, understanding boat shackle loads and the importance of quality fabrication is important to choose the correct shackle.
LB: Large Bails provide room for up to three additional shackles or a combination of shackles and lines. Ideal for spinnaker sheets, guys or other multi-line applications. Size Range. T5: Small boat applications, J-24s and similar. Breaking strength of 5,000lb., Working load limit of 2,500lb. and weigh just 2.2 ounces in the standard bail ...
When selecting a shackle for sailing applications, it is important to note the safe working load of the shackle and compare it to your application. The MAURIPRO Sailing store offers an extensive range of Sailing Shackles from trusted brands with products such as bow shackles, d shackles, key pins, halyard shackles, j-lock shackles, snap ...
Features Of Our 316 Stainless Steel D Shackles: Often Called Chain Shackles. Include An Easily Removable Pin. Perfect As Multipurpose Boating Fasteners. Working Weight Load Range For Long D From 300 Lbs- 2,820 Lbs. Working Weight Load Range For Standard D From 440 Lbs- 9,260 Lbs. Now that we have talked about the two most commonly used types of ...
Wichard 3/16in D Shackle 1202. $ 14.69 10 In Stock. WICHARD INC -. WIC-1202. Shackles. Boat Owners Warehouse offers a wide selection of shackles for boaters of all levels. Shackles are an essential component of any boat's rigging system and are used to connect lines, chains, and other rigging components. We carry a large variety, including ...
We are here to help. We offer technical resources and how-to's on a wide range of products with product videos. Explore our range of marine shackles from stainliess steel to galvanized and many variations, this is your one-stop-shop for rigging. Shop now!
Twist Shackles: Twist shackles are designed with a 90-degree twist so the two connection points are perpendicular to each other. They are useful when a load rotation can cause standard shackles to become side-loaded. Halyard Shackles: These are specialized shackles used in sail rigging. They come in various designs like key pin, snap, and ...
Online shopping for Shackles - Rigging from a great selection at Sports & Outdoors Store. ... Quick Release Snap Hook Boat Shackles Sailboat Hardware for Sailing Rigging Shackles. 4.7 out of 5 stars. 32. $14.99 $ 14. 99. List: $16.99 $16.99. FREE delivery Thu, Mar 14 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon.
Shackles have been used in rigging and load securement applications for centuries. Whether it's connecting anchor chains to mooring buoys or securing halyards to sails, a shackle is a staple piece of equipment on any boat. A variety of types are available, with the most common ones being bow (anchor) and D-shaped (straight or chain) shackles.
Gentle on Rigging: They won't damage your boat's mast or rigging, ensuring the longevity of your equipment. Easy Attachment and Removal: Soft shackles are easy to attach and detach, making sail changes and adjustments hassle-free. Boat Anchor Shackles vs. Soft Shackles. In the world of boating, safety is paramount, especially when anchoring.
1 offer from $6.39. #8. Boat Jaw Swivel Eye Snap Shackle,Quick Release Bail Rigging Sailing Boat Marine 316 Stainless Steel Clip, Pack of 2. 68. 1 offer from $14.99. #9. YUSOVE Black Snap Shackle 316 Stainless Steel Swivel Eye Snap Shackle,High Strength Quick Release Snap Hook for Sailing Rigging Shackles,Pack of 2. 4.
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Weve been using soft shackles on the end of eye-spliced genoa sheets on one of our test boats for two seasons now, and they have proven to be safe, reliable, and snag-proof. For material, we suggest using at least 1/8-inch Amsteel or 3/16-inch, if there is room. The larger size makes for easier handling.
To start, with the shackle pin nipped up tight, cut a piece of wire about 15cm (6in) long and hold 5cm (2in) of it under the side of the shackle. Seizing shackles. Poke the wire up through the hole in the shackle pin then down through the shackle itself and repeat so you have two loops of wire around the shackle and through the pin.
Snap shackles are most popular in marine grade stainless steel but are also available in traditional bronze and specialist light weight nylon. Jimmy Green offer a choice of top manufacturers: Wichard, Tylaska, Navtec (limited availability) Brookes & Adams (Bronze) and Nab (plastic) together with a non branded range manufactured in marine grade ...
At Seahorse Yacht rigging we have Extensive experience in the mast and rigging industry and believe in quality products, excellent service and customer satisfaction, every time. ... So whether you are replacing a shackle or an entire rig, our expertise means you can rely on the advice offered, the work undertaken and the products supplied. Our ...
The 3/8-inch shackles we look at here should fit common 5/16-inch proof-tested chain stamped G30 (7,600 lbs. nominal breaking strength) or G43 chain (11,400 lbs. nominal breaking strength). For more on chain standards and breaking strengths, including those for metric chains, see Making Sense of Chain Standards.
+44 (0)1621-785455 [email protected] Anchor & Mooring; Architectural; Blocks Allen; Blocks Wichard; Hull & Deck Hardware; Maintenance; Rigging Hardware; Rudder & Tiller; Safety &
The perch pounder rig is ideal for vertical fishing from a boat, and works best in relatively deep water. How to tie it : Use one piece of leader line to tie the entire rig. Since you don't want the side arms of this perch rig to constantly get tangled up with the main line, it's best to use a relatively heavy fluorocarbon line of about 15 ...
Today, rigging shackles are used for loading and unloading operations, as well as for transporting goods. Their main purpose is to securely fix and connect parts of lifting devices and mechanisms. Taking into account the serious loads on these products at all stages of their operation, high-quality brackets must necessarily comply with foreign ...
Vanquish 65; Mini Maniac; RG65 Appendages; Maniac MK II; IOM Appendages; Marblehead Class; Marblehead Appendages; RT65 Ragnarok; RT65R Armageddon; RC65 Adrenaline ...