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North Star 1500/35

North Star 1500/35 is a 35 ′ 0 ″ / 10.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Hughes Boat Works starting in 1975.

Drawing of North Star 1500/35

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

S&S design #2166. After Howard Hughes purchased North Star Yachts it became the HUGHES 35. Also known as the AURA A35. Shoal draft: 4.80’/1.46m. Disp.: 13900 lbs./6305 kgs.

Tall Rig: I: 44.00’/13.41m J: 14.50’/4.42m P: 39.30’/11.98m E: 11.60’/3.54m SA (100%): 546.94 ft2/50.81 m2

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04-12-2011, 13:02  
Boat: MacGregor 25
? The good and the bad? How they would hold up for say coastal cruising or trip over to the ?

Thanks
Jaime
04-12-2011, 13:27  
Boat: CS36Merlin, "La Belle Aurore"
built them they were pretty strong (Hughes 35). Buddy of mine singlehanded his across the Atlantic four times, coming home via the northern once. Unfortunately it was not strong enough to survive a fall off an elevated highway when he was towing it home for lay-up. Sad end to a great .
04-12-2011, 13:47  
Boat: KH 49x, Custom
was a 35 (Hughes bought out Northstar) which comes from the exact same as the Northstar 1500. The glass on the Hughes was pure chopper gun. Not the stiffest or lightest but worked just fine for what we did.
Here's what we did with that boat.
6 consecutive years, we went from to and back. About 5000 miles a year there. Next we took the boat through the , starting in the bahamas and sailing to windward (notice I didn't say bashing, this boat doesn't bash to windward, it very well, and very comfortable if you're smart enough to take it easy). We sailed from to Luperon in 4 days against the . Then from Luperon to in 3 days of no , then did many short hops until we hit Trinidad.
All that with only 20 gallons of and 25 gallons of , no .
The boat is an S&S design and should be reefed early to keep the down.
We had an atomic 4 and changed to a , more hp than we needed, but it was nice to at 7 knots.
If there's anything else I can help with, just let me know.
Cheers.
Paul.
04-12-2011, 13:52  
Boat: KH 49x, Custom
like a witch.
Cheers.
Paul.
04-12-2011, 14:30  
Boat: CS36Merlin, "La Belle Aurore"
04-12-2011, 14:37  
Boat: KH 49x, Custom
04-12-2011, 14:59  
Boat: 40' Northstar 80/20 S&S ketch
is bullet proof. I bought her in Ft. Pierce after they had 3 direct hits by hurricanes in one summer. She was the only boat floating. Her had been above the pilings and had scraped away all the gel coat and even under the line and there wasn't any moisture in the hull. Well layed-up boat! Another boat had flown in the air and broke her stainless stanchions off and some other damage, but the didn't give anywhere. She's got about 15000 sea miles on her in the last 8 years. She probably had another 30,000 before I got her. She's still solid as a boat can be. (original too and doesn't smoke and starts right up.)
I think that they are great boats! I'm cruising the now. I wish the rest of the would hold up as well as the hull. But I still have most of the original that came with the boat and most of it is fine. 555 still works perfect, masts and spars are original. I've heard good things about the 38, it's supposed to be quick and solid. A good combination.

Lee
04-12-2011, 15:32  
Boat: MacGregor 25
for a good and wanted to get some info on them before I called about it.
12-07-2012, 11:01  
Boat: Hughes 35 and Lagoon 380 S2
last . I figured out that it was not the original when I took it out. I am heading to the Bay of Fundy with her for the month of August.
05-10-2012, 07:35  
Boat: NORTH STAR 35
slowly drips rusty water when hauled out .I have done small ,drain and patch ,but it has started again .Has anyone had the same problem , and can you share your experience with me . The still appears rock solid with no other sign of deterioration . We sail from to the Abacos every winter . The boat now sits in water all year since 2006. Marcel
05-10-2012, 08:11  
Boat: CS36Merlin, "La Belle Aurore"
the hole before launch.
05-10-2012, 22:07  
Boat: 40' Northstar 80/20 S&S ketch
I suggest fixing the rudder. It's not that horrible of a job. My rudder leaked for about 4 years, I tried draining the water then patching the holes where it leaked but it didn't . So about four years ago, I took the rudder off the boat and cut out a good sized hole out of one side of the rudder, it's good to cut the piece out with a mind toward putting the same piece back in. A clean cut with a thin blade, with at least a 45 degree angle, so you can put it back together easily. A hole about 18" by 24". Then I took out the old foam that was in there, it was mostly rotten. But the difference is I didn't have any rusty water, it was all inside the rudder, hadn't rusted out in four years of water being there. Eventually you have to fix it. Just deal with it on your next haulout. It's not a nice feeling to know that there is something wrong down there. Especially if you a lot. I'm down in now.

When it was clean and dry inside I roughly put the piece back on leaving a hole on the upper part and put that expanding foam you poor and it expands to like 10 times. I would poor in a little bit, let it expand, poor again and let it expand until it filled all the way to the top. IF YOU PUT TOO MUCH IN, IT WILL PUSH THE PIECE RIGHT OFF. SO BE CAREFUL ON THE EXPANDING FOAM. Then put cloth and polyester resin on the , sand and fare it, coat it with something good and then and it was done. there is enough to worry about on a boat without something you know is bad. But it probably could have gone for few more years before something broke in there, but who knows?

Good luck,
Lee
06-10-2012, 07:45  
Boat: NORTH STAR 35
I suggest fixing the rudder. It's not that horrible of a job. My rudder leaked for about 4 years, I tried draining the water then patching the holes where it leaked but it didn't . So about four years ago, I took the rudder off the boat and cut out a good sized hole out of one side of the rudder, it's good to cut the piece out with a mind toward putting the same piece back in. A clean cut with a thin blade, with at least a 45 degree angle, so you can put it back together easily. A hole about 18" by 24". Then I took out the old foam that was in there, it was mostly rotten. But the difference is I didn't have any rusty water, it was all inside the rudder, hadn't rusted out in four years of water being there. Eventually you have to fix it. Just deal with it on your next haulout. It's not a nice feeling to know that there is something wrong down there. Especially if you a lot. I'm down in now.

When it was clean and dry inside I roughly put the piece back on leaving a hole on the upper part and put that expanding foam you poor and it expands to like 10 times. I would poor in a little bit, let it expand, poor again and let it expand until it filled all the way to the top. IF YOU PUT TOO MUCH IN, IT WILL PUSH THE PIECE RIGHT OFF. SO BE CAREFUL ON THE EXPANDING FOAM. Then put cloth and polyester resin on the , sand and fare it, coat it with something good and then paint and it was done. there is enough to worry about on a boat without something you know is bad. But it probably could have gone for few more years before something broke in there, but who knows?

Good luck,
Lee
11-12-2016, 06:13  
Boat: NORTH STAR 35
? The good and the bad? How they would hold up for say coastal cruising or trip over to the Bahamas?

Thanks
Jaime/QUOTE] My northstar 35 is now . Have owned it since 1982 . structure has been re-built to extreme strenght , including 6 new . Re-engined with 29hp in 2006 . Boat is in and not getting much use . All is very good shape except for fading red awlgrip . You may e-mail me at Marcel
 
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