diy sailboat trailer

• May 04, 2014 - 08:16 AM

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DIY Boat Building Plans

How to Build a Boat Trailer

Download over 500 Boat Plans. Click on the link below.

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Table of Contents

Overview of How to Build a Boat Trailer

Boat trailers are an essential accessory for any boat owner. They provide a convenient and efficient way to transport your boat from one location to another, whether it’s to the local lake or across the country for a vacation. Having a boat trailer allows you the freedom to explore different bodies of water without the need to rent a trailer every time you want to go boating. One of the benefits of building your own boat trailer is the customization options it offers. When you build your own trailer, you have the freedom to design it according to your specific needs and preferences. You can choose the materials , size, and features that best suit your boat and towing vehicle. Building your own boat trailer also gives you a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, knowing that you created something functional and practical.

Key Takeaways

• Choosing the right trailer for your boat is crucial for safe and efficient transportation.
• Building a boat trailer requires materials such as steel tubing, angle iron, and plywood .
• Essential tools for building a boat trailer include a welder, saw, drill, and measuring tape.
• Building the frame of the boat trailer is the first step, followed by adding the axle and wheels, installing the trailer hitch, wiring the lights, and adding brakes.
• Regular maintenance of your boat trailer is important to ensure its longevity and safety on the road.

Choosing the Right Trailer for Your Boat

When choosing a boat trailer, there are several factors to consider. First and foremost, you need to ensure that the trailer is capable of safely carrying the weight of your boat. The trailer should have a sufficient weight capacity and be compatible with the size and dimensions of your boat. Additionally, consider the type of terrain you will be towing your boat on. If you plan on traveling on rough roads or off-road, you may want to invest in a trailer with stronger suspension and larger wheels. There are various types of boat trailers available in the market, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common types include bunk trailers, roller trailers, and pontoon trailers. Bunk trailers provide excellent support for the hull of the boat and are ideal for boats with V-shaped hulls. Roller trailers, on the other hand, use rollers instead of bunks, making it easier to launch and retrieve your boat. Pontoon trailers are specifically designed for pontoon boats and feature adjustable bunks to accommodate different sizes.

Materials Needed for Building a Boat Trailer

To build your own boat trailer, you will need a list of materials. The specific materials required may vary depending on the design and size of the trailer, but some common materials include steel or aluminum for the frame, wooden or composite boards for the bunks, and various hardware such as bolts, nuts, and brackets. It is important to choose high-quality materials that are durable and can withstand the weight and stress of towing a boat. There are several options for sourcing the materials needed for building a boat trailer. Local hardware stores and home improvement centers often carry a wide range of materials suitable for trailer construction. Additionally, there are online retailers that specialize in trailer parts and accessories. When sourcing the materials, consider factors such as cost, availability, and quality to ensure you get the best value for your money.

Tools Required for Building a Boat Trailer

Building a boat trailer requires a set of tools to complete the construction process. Some essential tools include a welder for joining metal components, a saw for cutting wood or metal, a drill for creating holes, and various hand tools such as wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers. It is important to have the necessary tools on hand before starting the construction process to ensure smooth progress. There are several options for sourcing the tools required for building a boat trailer. Local hardware stores often carry a wide range of tools suitable for trailer construction. Additionally, there are online retailers that specialize in tools and equipment. Consider factors such as cost, quality, and availability when choosing where to source your tools from.

Step-by-Step Guide to Building a Boat Trailer

Building a boat trailer may seem like a daunting task, but with the right guidance and instructions, it can be a rewarding project. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you build your own boat trailer: 1. Design your trailer: Start by designing your trailer according to your boat’s specifications and your towing vehicle’s capabilities. Consider factors such as weight capacity, size, and features. 2. Gather materials and tools: Once you have your design finalized, gather all the necessary materials and tools required for the construction process. 3. Build the frame: Begin by constructing the frame of the trailer using steel or aluminum. Cut and weld the metal components according to your design. 4. Add the bunks or rollers: Depending on your boat’s hull type, add either wooden or composite bunks or rollers to support the boat during transportation. 5. Install the axle and wheels: Attach the axle and wheels to the frame, ensuring they are properly aligned and securely fastened. 6. Install the trailer hitch: Install the trailer hitch onto the frame, ensuring it is compatible with your towing vehicle and securely attached. 7. Wire the trailer lights: Connect the wiring for the trailer lights, ensuring they are properly grounded and functional. 8. Add brakes (optional): If desired, add brakes to the trailer for added safety and control during towing. 9. Test and make adjustments: Once the construction is complete, test the trailer by attaching it to your towing vehicle and loading your boat onto it. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure proper balance and stability. 10. Maintain your trailer: Regularly inspect and maintain your boat trailer to ensure its longevity and safe operation.

Building the Frame of the Boat Trailer

Building the frame of a boat trailer is a crucial step in the construction process. The frame provides structural support and determines the overall strength and stability of the trailer. When building the frame, it is important to choose high-quality materials that can withstand the weight and stress of towing a boat. To build the frame, start by cutting steel or aluminum tubes or beams according to your design specifications. Use a welder to join the metal components together, ensuring strong and secure connections. It is important to follow proper welding techniques and safety precautions to ensure the integrity of the frame. The frame should be designed to accommodate the size and weight of your boat. Consider factors such as the boat’s length, width, and weight distribution when determining the dimensions and shape of the frame. Additionally, ensure that the frame is properly reinforced at stress points to prevent bending or flexing during towing.

Adding the Axle and Wheels to the Trailer

Adding the axle and wheels to the boat trailer is a critical step in ensuring its functionality and safety. The axle provides support and allows for smooth movement of the trailer, while the wheels enable easy transportation. To add the axle and wheels, start by positioning the axle on the frame according to your design specifications. Ensure that it is properly aligned and centered to maintain balance and stability during towing. Securely attach the axle to the frame using bolts or welding, depending on your chosen construction method. Next, attach the wheels to the axle using lug nuts or bolts. Ensure that they are properly tightened and aligned to prevent any wobbling or instability while in motion. It is important to choose wheels that are suitable for the weight capacity of your trailer and compatible with your towing vehicle.

Installing the Trailer Hitch

Installing the trailer hitch is an essential step in building a boat trailer. The hitch connects the trailer to your towing vehicle, allowing for safe and secure transportation. To install the trailer hitch, start by positioning it on the frame according to your design specifications. Ensure that it is compatible with your towing vehicle’s hitch receiver and securely attach it using bolts or welding. When installing the trailer hitch, it is important to follow proper installation guidelines and safety precautions. Ensure that all connections are tight and secure, and that there is no excessive play or movement between the hitch and towing vehicle.

Wiring the Trailer Lights

Wiring the trailer lights is an important step in ensuring visibility and safety while towing your boat. Properly functioning lights are essential for signaling your intentions to other drivers on the road. To wire the trailer lights, start by running the wiring harness along the frame of the trailer, ensuring it is securely fastened and protected from damage. Connect the wiring harness to the trailer lights, ensuring proper grounding and insulation. Test the trailer lights to ensure they are functioning correctly. Check that all the necessary lights, such as brake lights, turn signals, and taillights, are working properly. Make any necessary adjustments or repairs to ensure optimal visibility and compliance with road regulations.

Adding Brakes to the Trailer

Adding brakes to a boat trailer is an optional but highly recommended safety feature. Brakes provide additional control and stopping power, especially when towing larger boats or traveling on steep or hilly terrains. To add brakes to the trailer, start by selecting the appropriate type of brakes for your trailer and towing vehicle. There are several options available, including surge brakes, electric brakes, and hydraulic brakes. Choose a braking system that is compatible with your trailer’s weight capacity and your towing vehicle’s braking capabilities. Install the brake system according to the manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring all connections are secure and properly aligned. Test the brakes to ensure they are functioning correctly and make any necessary adjustments or repairs.

Tips for Maintaining Your Boat Trailer

Proper maintenance is essential for ensuring the longevity and safe operation of your boat trailer. Here are some tips for maintaining your boat trailer: 1. Regularly inspect your trailer for any signs of wear or damage. Check for loose bolts, rust, or cracks in the frame, and replace any worn-out or damaged components. 2. Clean your trailer after each use to remove dirt, saltwater residue, and debris that can cause corrosion or damage over time. 3. Lubricate moving parts such as hinges, rollers, and winches to ensure smooth operation and prevent rusting. 4. Check the tire pressure regularly and ensure they are properly inflated. Replace any worn-out or damaged tires to maintain optimal traction and stability. 5. Grease the wheel bearings at least once a year to prevent friction and ensure smooth rotation. 6. Check the trailer lights before each trip to ensure they are functioning correctly. Replace any burnt-out bulbs or faulty wiring. 7. Store your boat trailer in a dry and secure location when not in use to protect it from the elements and potential theft. By following these maintenance tips, you can ensure that your boat trailer remains in good condition and lasts longer, providing you with many years of reliable service.

Conclusion – How to Build a Boat Trailer

Building your own boat trailer can be a rewarding and cost-effective project for boat owners. By carefully considering the factors involved in choosing the right trailer, sourcing the necessary materials and tools, and following a step-by-step guide, you can successfully build a customized boat trailer that meets your specific needs and preferences. Remember to prioritize safety throughout the construction process and regularly maintain your boat trailer to ensure its longevity and safe operation. With proper care and attention, your homemade boat trailer will provide you with years of enjoyable boating experiences.

FAQs – How to Build a Boat Trailer

What materials are needed to build a boat trailer.

To build a boat trailer, you will need materials such as steel tubing, angle iron, bolts, nuts, washers, wheels, tires, and a hitch.

What tools are required to build a boat trailer?

You will need tools such as a welder, angle grinder, drill, saw, measuring tape, and a level to build a boat trailer.

What are the steps to build a boat trailer?

The steps to build a boat trailer include designing the trailer, cutting and welding the steel tubing and angle iron, attaching the wheels and tires, installing the hitch, and adding any necessary accessories.

What is the weight capacity of a boat trailer?

The weight capacity of a boat trailer depends on the size and strength of the trailer. It is important to choose a trailer that can safely support the weight of your boat.

What safety precautions should be taken when building a boat trailer?

When building a boat trailer, it is important to wear protective gear such as gloves and safety glasses. It is also important to follow proper welding and cutting techniques to avoid injury.

Can a boat trailer be customized?

Yes, a boat trailer can be customized to fit the specific needs of the boat owner. This may include adding features such as a winch, spare tire, or storage compartments.

Written by DIY Boat Building Plans

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How to build a sailboat trailer extension

This is the remarkable true story about how I built a sturdy trailer extension and got 27 stitches in the process. I recommend the  former, though I included instructions on how I got the latter just in case you’re interested.

The previous owner of my Catalina 270 took her in and out of the water with a crane. Unfortunately on my lake, there are no cranes, so we have to launch the boat by backing the trailer into the lake. When the lake is low or the ramps shallow, it is necessary to extend the trailer out further into the water than the tow vehicle can go.  One way to accomplish this task is by building an extension to go between the trailer and tow vehicle, which allows the trailer to be let down further out into the water.

On my prior boat, I used a strap and rolling wheel on the front of the trailer to lower the boat in. The problem with the strap (or rope, or cable) method is that you can’t push the trailer further into the water. Often times there are large ruts or pits in the dirt beneath the ramp caused by power boaters gunning their engines to push boats on and off trailers. To pass over these ruts using a strap, you have to let the boat back quickly down the ramp to build up enough momentum to roll through the ruts, and I always worried that a deep rut on one side or the other would tip the trailer to the side. It never did, but I always imagined it happening.

So this time I wanted more control over the boat, and decided to build a solid bar extension. I looked at several designs on various websites and decided I wanted one that was heavy duty enough to support the weight without needing a dolly wheel under the front of the trailer. I wanted about 15 feet of extension, and it needed to be easily installed, removed, and stowed on the trailer.

First, off to the local metal shop, where I purchased 15 feet of galvanized steel, in the same dimension as the steel on the trailer’s tongue (3″x5″). I think it’s possible to go with something smaller, but not knowing how it would handle the load I decided to stay with the original dimensions.

Next, I ordered a 2-5/8″ hitch coupler from Amazon on the front of the hitch extension, which would connect to the tow vehicle’s ball without having to switch ball sizes.

Then, I had the terrible idea of simply bolting the hitch extension alongside the trailer’s tongue. Two large bolts, spaced about 2 feet apart, seemed like they would do the trick. However, the weight of the trailer bent the bolts and the extension sagged to about 2 inches off the ground. It was enough to launch it the first year, but I knew I’d need a sturdier connection between extension bar and trailer by the time we hauled out in fall.

I ordered a 2- 5/8″ trailer ball to mount on the top of the extension bar. This ball would lock into the trailer hitch. At the back end of the bar, I planned to have two bars welded on that would hug the sides of the trailer tongue and be secured on top with a hitch pin.

The bars I chose were half inch thick steel. This is how I ended up with 27 stitches. My battery powered drill would never make it through, so I ran to the hardware store to pick up a corded drill. The drill I’d planned to buy was good, but when I got there I found a higher amperage drill on sale for less. More power for less money? Yes, please. So I walked out of the store with a 9 amp Hitachi drill.

I lifted my 25 lbs vice off the workbench and set it on the garage floor for safety. I locked the steel in the vice and started drilling, stopping every 30 seconds or so to add some oil into the hole. The whole operation felt pretty safe until the drillbit punched through the back side of the steel. That’s when the full fury of all 9 amps was unleashed. That monster drill grabbed the steel bar and 25 pound vice and spun them in circles so fast that by the time I let go of the trigger it had spun around 2 full times. I felt something had hit the back of my leg, and glancing down, realized I was in trouble. The half inch bar traveling at 9 amps had laid open the back of my calf. It was going to need stitches. And not a few, because as it turns out, half inch steel is not a very precise cutting implement.

On the drive over to the hospital, I used Intermountain Healthcare’s “ConnectCare” telehealth app on my phone. It was amazing, I could actually show the doctor a video of the wound from the car so she could tell me if I needed to go straight to the emergency department, or just a clinic. One emergency department visit and 27 stitches later, I was good to go. And I only had one more bar to drill through. It took me two weeks to get the courage to do it.

But the end result was a great trailer extension. It’s very sturdy, able to hold the front of the trailer at the same height over the full length of the bar. It also has enough ground clearance that I can attach it on flat pavement and drive it over the edge of the road onto the ramp without bottoming out. This makes work on the ramp much safer, because the trailer is never unhitched from the tow vehicle while on the incline. I also have an impressive scar on the back of my leg which I refer to proudly as “a sailing injury.”

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Trailer Tongue Extension

• Thread starter rswift
• Start date May 7, 2017
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I am looking for ideas to make or buy an extension for the trailer for my O'Day 192. The launch ramp at our lake is very short and we usually end up putting the back wheels of the car into the water and it is still not quite deep enough to float the boat off of the trailer. I have seen quite a few pictures on line of set ups to extend the tongue of the trailer, but I am curious if anyone here as a tried and true set up they could share. I only need this for launching and retrieving the boat. For normal road trailering, the trailer is set up fine. Thanks.  

Google it,you will get several designs that are relatively easy builds.  

The trailer came with a 10' extension and I added another 7' extension to fit into the truck receiver. I have a Catalina 250 with wing keel and need 6' of water to launch. The 7' extension requires a STRONG receiver to hold it and the system works fine as long as you be sure to also have a long enough safety chain. The simplist and cheapest way is to just launch it with a chain after you have it lined up, Chock it on the slope and unhook the ball, pullforward enough to retrieve the chocks and guide it down. One person guides the trailer with the tongue while another person backs it down. Be careful and hope you cope, Chief  

There are a few tried methods. It depends on how short your ramp is... if you roll your trailer wheels off the end of the ramp, it will not matter how long your trailer tongue extends. Your trailer will be a total pain to retrieve. I would go determine the length that you can safely back the trailer down the ramp. Do not get too worried about getting your rear wheels in the water if you have a vehicle capable of pulling your boat from the water. In the case of a 19' O'day, an SUV or minivan should be the minimum. You could back in til your tailpipe is just clear of the water. So, if you still need an extension, google trailer extensions to see how people have built extension bars. If you only need a few feet, you can just get a few feet of 2" square steel and add a hitch and ball to the ends. More than a couple feet, and you are gonna need a wheel to support the ball end under the trailer hitch. People have also used extension straps to let the trailer down the ramp: block the trailer wheels just above the water. Attach a strap from the trailer to the vehicle. Unhitch the trailer. Pull the vehicle forward to tighten the strap. Pull the blocks from the trailer wheels. Slowly back the trailer into the water. Do not roll the trailer off the end of the ramp! Every ramp I have seen has at least a 1' drop off the concrete into mud. The force required to pull your trailer over the ledge will be tremendous.  

How about a picture of the forward half of the trailer so we have something to work with. Do you want to modify the trailer or have some type of attachment? Do you want to extend/attach at the rigging area and back straight into the water or fiddle at the ramp? How long? What skills do you have or do you have someone that can do the work? The current design I have on my O'Day 23 works very well. I will make one modification to the design when I build a trailer for my S2 (TOPOSS) to eliminate a step in the deployment of the extension to save about 3 minutes.  

Extensions are easy. You need to decide if the bar is going to support the trailer or the front of the trailer will be self supporting. We used the spare as the dolly wheel and made the extension out of 4" tubular thick wall aluminium to save weight. The downside to this approach is that the trailer has to be, and stay, absolutely straight. This is year three and it's worked well.  

Try this thread as well. I just went through the same thing. https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/trailer-toungue-extension.181585/  

LakeShark said: Try this thread as well. I just went through the same thing. https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/trailer-toungue-extension.181585/ Click to expand

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• Liquid Blog

Right On Trailers Sailboat Dolly assembly guide - the easy way to launch and retrieve small sail boats!

RIGHT-ON-TRAILER

Sailboat dolly trailer.

This unique trailer design makes hauling your sailboat a breeze! Designed to hold your small sailboat on its existing dolly, you simply roll on, secure, and go. It is easily managed by one person and can fit both Seitech and Dynamic dolly brands.

One nice thing about the Right On trailers is that they ship in four boxes via UPS, thus saving on truck freight shipping costs!

The actual Dolly for your specific sailer is a separate purchase which also ships UPS in one box.

This trailer is very easy to assemble with just a few common tools.

Click HERE for the Right On Trailers assembly instructions PDF.

Assembly starts with laying out the main components.

Please note that the initial assembly is done with the trailer upside down!

A few scraps of 2x4 wood makes the job much easier.

First, be sure to run the wiring through the main trailer tongue. Using a stiff wire of the right length makes pulling the wires out through the frame hole easy.

The special rated leaf springs are bolted on next.

The frame assembly partially assembled.

Note that the roller brackets must be installed under the inverted trailer.

The axle tube is bolted on with the u-bolts.

The wheel hubs come pre-greased and slide over the axle shafts.

Set the axle hub nut so that the wheel freely rotates but with no play and secured with a cotter pin.

The bearing cap is tapped on with a wood block and the zerk fitting attaches last.

The finished underside of the trailer. It's time to flip the trailer over and install the rest of it.

The bow stop for the dolly/sailboat is installed next. Leave these bolts somewhat loose as they will likely need to be re-positioned once the Sailboat Dolly is loaded on top.

The front dolly roller.

The tongue coupler, safety chains and kick stand are installed next.

The fenders bolt on over the wheels along with the dolly wheel supports.

The wiring is run through each frame tube. Again using a stiff wire makes this simpler.

The side running lights install in the marked holes. The wires need to be pulled out through the hole in the frame.

The assembled trailer with the Sailboat Dolly on top.

The bow stop may need to be re-positioned so that the dolly seats properly on the rollers and trailer.

The fished trailer with dolly on top. Test the wiring for the lights for operation before stuffing the wires back inside the frame!

Be sure to go over the entire trailer and check that all the nuts and bolts are properly tightened!

Here's a video showing how easy and simple it is for one person to load up a small sailer.

Right On makes a  variety of trailers for different needs .

They are a great and inexpensive choice for sailboats, kayaks or other small water craft.

However, they are not meant to be submerged in the water - that's what the aluminum Sailboat Dolly is for!

• #dolly trailer
• #liquidsurfandsail
• #right on trailers
• #sailboat dolly trailer
• #sailboat trailer
• #trailer assembly

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How to Build Boat Trailers

18 Homemade Boat Trailer Plans You Can DIY Easily

To watercraft enthusiasts, owning a boat trailer is non-negotiable. If you want to protect your invaluable crafts from harsh weather, you need to carry and store them in weather-protected facilities.

And the great news is that those handy with metalworking tools don’t find it difficult to DIY a boat trailer all by themselves. So, if you’re confident in your handyman skills, here are 18 DIY boat trailer ideas for you to replicate.

Let’s start with a tutorial from Cypher Outside when you can educate yourself on how to convert a trailer into a boat trailer !

Table of Contents

1.   DIY Boat trailer

2.   material list for a do-it-yourself pontoon trailer, 3.   how to build at home a custom boat trailer, guide, 4.   build small boat trailer, 5.   boat trailer guides – easy cheap diy homemade guides, 6.   how to build your own jon boat trailer, 7.   boat trailer build and replace., 8.   how to build a diy camper trailer – the deck, 9.   drift boat trailer build, 10.  building a boat trailer, 11.  do-it-yourself: upgrading your boat’s trailer, 12. which aluminum boat trailer is best welded vs bolt together, 13.  diy jon boat trailer build, with boat bunks, 14.  boat trailer plans, 15.  revenge- diy boat trailer build, 16.  how to make a boat trailer guide post, 17.  mangrove jack folding boat trailer, 18.  how to convert harbor freight trailer to boat trailer.

Do you own a trailer that you’d like to upgrade into a boat trailer? The Youtuber from Cypher Outside upgrades an inexpensive trailer he bought from the Facebook marketplace to a fabulous boat trailer. He walks his viewers through the entire process of DIY.

Cypher Outside further features plenty of other interesting DIYs and vlogs; do check the channel out!

Figuring out DIYs can be stressful – what plan to follow, what materials to gather. Luckily, for those wanting to DIY a pontoon trailer , this blog post by GONE OUTDOORS has got you covered!

Learn all the supplies you need for each part of the trailer in this post and get a brief overview of the DIY process. We hope it helps!

Here’s a tutorial to build a 26 feet boat trailer with 96 inches of width. The Youtuber Sorin Chebac shares dimensions, and images were taken throughout the process in a slideshow format.

This is only the first part of the video, and it’s sad that the Youtuber hasn’t uploaded the second part of the DIY process yet.

If you want to build a trailer for Dinghy , tinny, Parkercraft, or children’s yachts, this small boat trailer tutorial is perfect for you.

This trailer supports runabout of the length of around 10 ft to 13 ft and a width of 5 ft. For your ease, every step of the DIY process is explained in detail in this written tutorial by THE SHED .

Are you planning to DIY boat trailer guides along with a boat trailer? If yes, the Youtuber from WAYNE THE BOAT GUY walks you through the entire DIY process of building boat trailer guides, along with the supply and tools he used for the process.

Everyone in the comment section is raving about how great the DIY is. Do check it out! What’s more, this channel features a wide range of boat-related DIYs for boat enthusiasts like you!

In 8 well-organized steps, the blogger from IT STILL RUNS , Pauline Gill , instructs you on how to build an amazing Jon boat trailer.

Considering how detailed this written tutorial is, it is great for beginners. For tips and warnings, make sure you check out the end of the blog post. Also, find the supplies you need for the DIY at the end.

https://youtu.be/GWzhwJtZg6A

Is your old boat trailer wrecked? If yes, you might still be able to salvage some invaluable parts from it. In this video, Craig Campbell from MC Engineering inc. uses his rusty old trailer to DIY a brand new one.

He cuts mild steel tubes as per the plan and welds them together. The Youtuber surely does complete the DIY quickly and easily. Check it out!

Many have mentioned in the comment section how this DIY trailer built by DIY ADVENTURE isn’t capable of handling the weight of a heavy camper. This trailer features only one axle, and many have pointed out how the design needs another axle for this trailer to work.

In this first part, the Youtuber covers how to build the deck . Unfortunately, no other videos on this DIY series haven’t been uploaded yet. You can definitely look for inspiration in this tutorial or find creative ways to upgrade the Youtuber’s DIY. Let us know what you think of it!

According to Jaredsund from Instructables , you can easily DIY a drift boat trailer for around $500-$700. In this written tutorial, he elaborates on how he DIYed one for his aluminum drift boat . The finished product looks fantastic – sleek and professionally built.

On the downside, this tutorial might require you to be quite handy with CAD for you to be able to manipulate the design as per your requirement. Therefore, consider asking tech-savvy helping hands for help if you aren’t confident in your skills.

The Youtuber from Don’s Life Adventure builds a boat trailer for his 23 ft fibreglass boat. This DIY boat uses steel and features a fully welded joint. Here are the second and third part s of this fantastic DIY series. Make sure you check them out!

The comment section is full of positive reviews and applause. And, if you’re equally impressed by the content, make sure you drop some kind words in the comments as well. It fuels the creator!

Now, if your boat trailer needs just a little updating for the next summer, Chuck Hawley from West Marine has offered you some tips in this post.

From updating your jack winch to trailer guides to trailer lights, this post has all the information you’ll need for the upgrade. Also, find all the tools and supplies required at the beginning of the blog. Overall, this post is definitely an informational read!

Welded or bolt together – which aluminum boat trailer is the best? If you’ve found yourself wondering this, well, the answer is right here on Barrowed Time’ s Youtube video. Watch the video to find out the pros and cons of these trailers and see which one of these two the Youtuber picked.

In this Youtube tutorial by Fishing The Odds , the Youtuber rebuilds a trailer for his Jon boat . He further adds carpeted bunks and metal structures to the trailer frame. He truly transforms his old trailer from wrecked to fab!

If you’re a boating and fishing enthusiast, you’ll definitely enjoy more content from Fishing The Odds. It features a range of interesting DIYs and fishing vlogs.

To be precise, this is not a boat trailer tutorial. Nevertheless, you’ll find plenty of fantastic boat trailer DIY plans and their respective prices on this site.

What’s more, you can find all the homemade trailer pictures and specifications in the post such that you can make the best decision for yourself.

Matty from Revenge takes inspiration and design ideas from his old trailer and builds a new, stronger, and nicer trailer to fit his new hull. No kit, all from scratch – how great is that?

The Youtuber displays a sequence of documented images throughout the DIY and gives an overview of the process and some tips and suggestions regarding it for those seeking to achieve the same fantastic result.

If you’re looking forward to building a boat trailer on your own, this boat trailer guide post DIY by Ride The Ducks of Seattle will definitely interest you.

Every step of the DIY process is detailed in this post in an organized manner. If you’ve never built a boat trailer guide post before, this post is definitely a must-read.

This Youtube video is for those who have by now given up on DIYing a boat trailer. No judgements here – the hassle, especially to beginners, is real!

Here’s a review on Mangrove Jack folding boat trailer by the Youtuber from Western Australia Now and Then. He claims it to be the best folding trailer he has ever owned.

Did you know you could easily transform your Harbor Freight trailer into a boat trailer? Don’t know how to?

Luckily, the Youtuber from Boat Motors walks you through the entire process! The comment section looks more like a Q and A section. Therefore, don’t sleep on useful information exchanged there!

We hope you were able to find out a suitable trailer tutorial for you. Do you have experience in working on projects like these before? Or, maybe some information to share with us? We’re all ears!

Also, a quick reminder – if you aren’t familiar with metal fabrication tools or aren’t confident in your skills, we’d recommend you take help from someone experienced.

If you replicate any of these ideas, share your successes and failures in the comment section with us. We’re excited!

Related posts:

27 homemade pontoon boat plans you can diy easily.

• 17 Homemade Fishing Rod Holder For Boat Plans
• 17 Homemade Boat Seats Plans You Can DIY Easily

18 Homemade Boat Trailer Guides Plans You Can DIY Easily

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Build Small Boat Trailer

• 28 August 2017

TO BUILD A SIMPLE trailer for a small light, runabout of 10ft to 13 ft long by about 5ft wide (3-4 metres long by up to 1.5 metres wide) this design is ideal. It is suitable for a dinghy, tinny, Parkercraft or even your children’s yacht. You can adapt this economical design, but componentry is not cheap, so keep it simple if you want it to remain as affordable as possible.

Build this small boat trailer for summer

TO BUILD A SIMPLE trailer for a small light, runabout of 10ft to 13 ft long by about 5ft wide (3-4 metres long by up to 1.5 metres wide) this design is ideal. It is suitable for a dinghy, tinny, Parkercraft or even your children’s yacht. You can adapt this economical design, but componentry is not cheap, so keep it simple if you want it to remain as affordable as possible. Don’t go over the top. The boat sits on keel rollers on the main beam drawbar, and above the mudguards. It is supported by chine rollers at the back, and is very secure when strapped down. The frame which holds the chine rollers and supports the axle, springs and wheels, is secured to the main beam by U-bolts, and can be shifted between two keel rollers to adjust for the different sizes of boat. The winch post at the front is also fi xed to the beam by U-bolts and can be adjusted for the position of the boat bow. I imagine a boat having an overhang at the back of 200mm or 300mm – the exact distance doesn’t matter. The trailer will run easily from bach to beach. When you want to travel on the road, the rear lights number plate and Warrant of Fitness sticker can be placed on a light board strapped to the back of the boat. That’s the best way to keep the construction simple. Otherwise you have to fi x lights on metal arms on either side at the back, and that can limit the width of the boat you can get in. The material is all steel, although the construction is plain and, in total, not too heavy. The cross members are made of 50x50mm angle iron, and the side rails of the frame are 40x40mm RHS. The mudguards are welded directly onto the side rails. The axle is made of 40x40mm RHS. The main beam / drawbar is 50x50mm RHS of 5mm thick steel – you don’t want the bar bending because at 3.6 metres it is fairly long. Following normal practice, I tack-weld the parts fi rst, moving through the whole trailer to ensure that it is all square and all the measurements agree. When the trailer has been fi nished and assembled I do a full weld on everything I tack-welded. The components that I can dismantle, I take to the bench to weld

Check coupling plate

Pre – drilled saftey chain hole

Measure coupling plate

Wheels and hub seats

You could use standard hubs or other, different hubs, but I’ve used marinised hubs that include a rubber seal in the kit to stop water getting in. Rubber is better for boat trailers because of the contact with water. This arrangement is better than a lip seal, because the water pressure comes on the rubber seal and closes it effectively. You could go to wheelbarrow hubs and wheels if you want to – the boat the trailer will carry is fairly light. The smaller wheels would be good enough, and would be okay if you were going only from bach to beach, or not very far. If you want to travel on a public road you have to get it warranted, of course. The way I have built this design is up to warrant standard.

The springs come with three leaves, for a 750kg rating, but I have taken one leaf off because I feel that the springs are too heavy. As a twoleaf spring, it could be described as a 500kg rating, and that’s plenty for a boat where its fi xed weight is known. Ordinary domestic trailers need stronger springs as they can carry all sorts of different weights. If some people want to load the boat up with gear when towing it for the holidays, they might like to keep on all the leaves that come with the springs as standard kit.

Begin with the 3.6 metre beam which is the support for the whole trailer and the drawbar. Pre-drill a hole in the end of the 50x50mm RHS for the safety chain to be bolted into the drawbar, not welded. Mark the holes through the coupling onto a 220mm-long piece of 80x10mm flat steel and tack-weld this coupling plate onto one end of the drawbar. I have the coupling plate sticking about 80mm out from the front of the bar, but you could have as much as you like, provided there’s enough clearance for the nuts holding the coupling on. Square up the coupling plate which is tack-welded. Then put the main beam on two jacks or similar supports so that you can work on the frame. With the frame on the main drawbar or beam, I can get the measurements correct all round for frame, axle and springs.

Coupling plate tack welded

Mark the 1200mm-long angleiron cross-members at the centre. Square up the angle iron on the main bar. Mark and then drill holes on either side of the centre point to fi t the U-bolts which will clamp the front and back angle iron pieces on either side of the 50mm drawbar. The back angle iron then has four holes drilled on either side of the main drawbar for the chine rollers. The extra holes allow the chine roller assembly to be moved to suit different boat hulls. Measure 50mm in from each end of the angle iron, and then mark the holes using the fi xing plate which comes as a kit with the chine support roller assembly. This is a U-fi xture on a long bar that is clamped by the plates through the holes in the angle iron. The distance between the front and back cross-members in the frame is determined by the length of the springs. In this trailer, the measurement is 680mm length from front spring hanger to back slipper. It’s not important what measurement it is, but what is measured is whatever the springs are for the frame. The RHS is placed in-between the angle iron cross-members to hold the angle iron in place. I move the RHS out 20mm or so sideways away from the mounting brackets for the mudguard. It also takes the RHS away from the chine holes. Check the frame for square. Clamp it and tackweld the frame. I put the frame on the bench to tack weld the slippers and springs on. Put the frame back onto the main bar and prepare the axle.

Square up angle iron

Springs define frame width

RHS 20mm out from frame ends

Square up frame

Springs placed

Axle to frame space

I found it was 1195mm. I added 20mm each side for the clearance to the wheel. The total was 1235mm, so I cut the steel for the axle at that length. Get the centre at 617mm (half of 1235). Use this to measure back for the holes drilled in the RHS for the locator pins, which are in the centre of the springs. The distance between these locator pins is 1155mm. Half is 577mm, so the locator holes in the axle will be drilled in the axle at 577mm out from the centre at 617mm. Measure 577mm and check the chalk marks against the spring locator studs. Don’t do as I do, and measure incorrectly. Fortunately, the holes I drilled in the wrong place in the axle could be used for the weld which is melted into the stub axle. Drill 16mm holes in axle at the spot markedfor the spring locators. I used the holes I drilled incorrectly first, to fill with weld to hold the stub axle. Otherwise I would have filled those holes in. That’s the beauty of steel – – you can fill in if it goes wrong, but you can’t do that with timber. The axle is being put under the springs this time (rather than on top as with the previous trailer). That’s because there’s very little clearance between the axle and the main bar. When the weight goes on and the axle moves up with the springs, it would hit the towbar. With the axle underneath, there’s not that problem (the axle is bolted on with U bolts). Assemble the wheel and hubs temporarily according to the kit instructions, and check that the clearance between edge of the frame and tyre is correct—20mm. Also, check that the mudguard is in the correct place by holding it over the wheel at this point. You don’t want the wheel sticking out beyond the mudguard. Now I weld the stub axle into the RHS axle. Push the stub axle in and hold it square. Weld the plug in the axle hole to hold the stub axle in. I ordered the stub axles specifi cally for the 40x40mm RHS and Trail Com turned the stub diameter down so it fits easily and squarely into the RHS. Because I have taken one leaf off the spring, the bolt through the leaves is now too long. I cut off the extra thread on the top of the spring with a cutting wheel. I also have to drill down into the stub axle where the spring locator hole is to make it fit where the bolt is longer under the spring (that’s where I have taken off the leaf). This allows the axle to sit down properly on the spring locator. If you leave the three leaves in place for the 750kg spring weight, there’s no need for this adjustment. I place the axle on the spring locator studs under the springs and bolt it in place to the plate above the spring with 40mm U-bolts.

Stub axle welded in

Stub axle tack – welded in place

Mount tyre for clearance

axle fitting

Frame placed

Mudguard mounted

Keel rollers welded on

Measure winch post at 80°

Measure bow stalk

Put the wheel back on temporarily to position the mudguards. I place a block of wood with a 70mm clearance above the tyres to get the height of mudguard I want. That looks better than 50mm clearance which would also be possible. Simply weld the mudguard directly to the side rail of the frame.

Put the solid-rubber keel rollers along the main bar about a metre apart, with the fi rst roller welded to the very back of the drawbar. The trolley frame can move and should be towards the back. The weight of the boat is toward the back with something like an outboard motor. The distance that the frame can be adjusted is the distance between the rollers. With the boat overhang at the back by about 200mm or 300mm, the bow would probably reach over the third roller, and three should be enough.The chine rollers bolted to the back angle-iron cross-member of the frame help with pulling the boat on and off the trailer. A drawbar skid welded to the bottom of the drawbar at the front stops the coupling plate digging into the ground when the trailer is empty and dropped forward.

Handle and jockey wheel pipe welded

Boat tie-on loop welded

From your own boat, measure the height of the eyelet on the bow post. You need to position the hook on the winch wire at about this height so you will have a reasonably straight pull when winching the boat on to the trailer. The winch post is made of 35x35mm RHS welded to a plate which is U-bolted to the drawbar. This means the winch post can be adjusted back and forwards depending on the size of the boat. I calculate the height of the winch post from the total distance from the drawbar to the eye on the bow of the boat. In the case of the boat for which I’m making this trailer, the eye is at 480mm, so I want the wire from the winch to come out at about that point. With the winch 80mm high, I need a winch post of 400mm. I cut the 35x35mm RHS steel at 390mm to allow for the 10mm plate welded onto the top where the winch is bolted. I lean the post, cutting it to sit at an angle of 80 degrees, then weld it to a piece of 5mm or 10mm plate. This is U-bolted in position, so can be adjusted. For a heavier boat on a bigger boat trailer, I would normally weld a supportive backstay onto another plate U-bolted to the draw bar. This backstay would be welded to the winch post. But the winch post doesn’t need extra support on this smaller trailer. On top of the winch post, I need to weld a fl at plate 80x10mm thick and 100mm long. The winch is bolted to this plate. I could get away with a 5mm thick plate. Before welding the plate on, using the winch I mark the bolt holes for the winch itself. The winch can always then be unbolted if it breaks and needs to be repaired or replaced. I am using a small 1:1 ratio winch. This is about the right size for a small boat , but they come in different sizes and ratios for heavier boats (from 3:1 to 15:1). Onto the winch post, I now weld a 200mm RHS stalk at an angle of 70 degrees up. The solid rubber bow block is bolted to this, so the bow of the boat can be pulled into the bow stop. With your boat present, you can always measure where the bow will stop. The metal plate to which the bow block is bolted is welded to the end of the stalk.

trailer to be galvanized

Handle and tie-ons

To make a handle for lifting and pulling the trailer, I weld a 300mm length of 35mm-diameter pipe across the drawbar just behind the coupling plate. Onto the stalk, I weld a small loop for attaching the boat to. I made this by hacksawing out a link from a little piece of safety chain I had spare. Never throw anything away or discard scraps and spare bits of metal – they come in useful some time. The last thing is to weld tieons of bent 8mm rod to the front and back of the frame. I then dismantled the trailer to be sent for galvanizing. Be sure that you have drilled holes in the closed RHS sections – the winch post, winch stalk and axle – before the trailer parts go for galvanizing. The main beam / drawbar has been left open at the end, and the two RHS side rails on the frame are also open at the ends, so that the galvanizing can penetrate.

Chine roller pre-galvanized

The Shed magazine October/November 2024 issue 117 on sale now

Meet 21st century sheddie, Tim O’Connor of Army Bay Engineering, who has created his own unique brand of mini bikes from his small Whangaparaoa peninsula workshop, Hustler Mini Bikes. In the true spirit of the Kiwi DIY tradition, Tim rallied from the disappointment of a Covid-related job loss to create his own very successful, satisfying, and special business. “There is no room for mediocrity nor false modesty in the shed of precision engineer Tim O’Connor. His Instagram tagline is: ‘Maker of the world’s finest minibikes,’ and it would be a hard ask to find someone more motivated and committed to improving their product than this self-confessed perfectionist. For Tim, designing, building, and marketing his ‘Hustler’ minibikes is not just about selling units. His scaled-down, pocket-rockets have a deeper, almost sentimental significance. He has been riding small bikes since the age of 12, and remembers building minibikes in the garage with his father. He says, “That is where my love for bikes and engineering started.”

Making the cut

Sentimentality and chainsaws don’t usually go hand in hand but Dave Neame uses the machines not to massacre but to preserve pieces of wood for posterity. The long-time logger, who is based in North Canterbury, uses his prowess with a chainsaw to mill trees into slabs that can be turned into furniture, kitchen benches, or used as building features. “I get approached by people who’ve got trees that have sentimental value and they want more than firewood or mulch out of them. I come and mill them up and they can get made into something that becomes a family heirloom.”

Versatile Hi-Q Toggle clamps

Toggle Clamps When it comes to clamping, lever-action toggle clamps offer excellent power from a quick and easy motion and they are simple to install for ready access. Toggle clamps have a multitude of uses in engineering, metal fabrication, and woodworking. Hi-Q Components stocks a wide range of high-quality Turkish-made Kukamet toggle clamps including horizontal and vertical actions, latching or push–pull configurations with different mounting options, and even pneumatic versions.

The Shed  magazine is eclectic, informed, and always fascinating. Aimed at those with a few tools and perhaps a few clues: this is the magazine for real sheddies.

Packed with ideas, projects, advice, and peeks into other people’s sheds providing inspiration, ideas, and techniques, or just for the sheer enjoyment of the sheddie’s endless inventiveness,  The Shed  is the project enthusiast’s bible.

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

DIY Custom Trailer Tongue Extension

The one thing that my new Calkins trailer lacked compared to the old Trail Rite is an extendable tongue, a necessity at some of our local ramps. The only information on the Internet that I could find about adding a tongue extension was a universal aftermarket extension . But the cost was more than I paid for the entire trailer and I still needed to install a brake system. This looked like another $tingy Sailor project!

Two tubes are better than one

The center frame member of the Calkins trailer is 8′ of 1/8″ wall, 3″ x 4″ rectangular box tube. To make the tongue extension, I purchased 10′ of 1/8″ wall, 2-1/2″ square box tube to telescope inside it. The only obstructions were the wiring that exited the frame in the center of one side, the top two bolts that connect the side booms, and the front end of the frame that was squeezed partially closed at the factory.

I relocated the wiring exit to the empty bottom 1″ of the main tube and hammered out the front end. I removed the top two boom bolts and replaced them with a 3-1/2″ x 5″ square U bolt around the boom flanges.

To hold the inner tube in the top of the outer tube, I drilled new holes in the bottom of the front end of the outer tube for a new 1/2″ through bolt. Together with an original 1/2″ through bolt on the other end of the outer tube, they would hold the inner tube in the top of the outer tube when it was slid in, leaving a 1″ space in the bottom of the outer tube for the wiring and safety chain attachments. A third 1/2″ through bolt 2′ from the front end would hold the inner tube when the tongue is extended. I installed 1/2″ plastic conduit sleeves over the three through bolts to help roll the extension in and out of the outer tube.

Two tubes deserve two pins

I drilled pairs of 5/8″ pin holes through the inner tube to match the outer tube. This results in the tongue always being held by two pins whether extended or collapsed. I had my welding guy tack 1/8″ thick x 5/8″ ID washers on both sides of the inside tube at each of the connecting pin holes. Together, the washers take up the remaining space between the 2-1/2″ inner tube and the 3″ outer tube. Besides keeping the inner tube from sliding horizontally in the outer tube, they minimize the surface area of the inner tube that has to rub against the inside of the outer tube, which should prevent the tubes from rusting together, a common problem with the old Trail Rite tongue extensions.

Extending the tongue 8′ is as simple as removing the two connecting pins, sliding the inner tube out until the holes line up and reinserting the connecting pins. Launching from shallow ramps is no problem now.

The Bottom Line

Suggested price: $400 $tingy Sailor cost: $135 Savings: $265

How have you solved the problem of a too-short trailer?

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4 thoughts on “ diy custom trailer tongue extension ”.

Our trailer has an extendable tongue, but it seems to be rusted in for the duration – I spent too many hours with sledgehammers, drills, various penetrating oils, and even a small jackhammer, and finally gave up.

We bought a 18″ receiver extension (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E1DTG2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and a deep-drop ball mount. We swap in that assembly in place of the standard ball mount / stinger to launch and retrieve. That adds close to 2′ of extension, and drops the bow of the boat several inches, so the trailer is a little closer to level, even on the sloped ramp. Together, that gains about 3″ of depth (I.e., 3″ of car we don’t have to submerge to get her to float). Not nearly as nice as a real extendable trailer tongue, but pretty cheap and easy. And probably about the same amount of hassle in the parking lot as extending the trailer tongue (although I have no personal experience there, for which I’m still bitter at that rusty trailer…).

Note: The extension is theoretically rated for Class III towing; I wouldn’t want to tow real weight with it on the road, but it’s fine for backing down the ramp.

A good compromise there, Aaron, if a couple of feet more length is all you need to launch and retrieve.

I’m looking at a few trailers for my C22. I’ve found a couple that are listed for 17-19’and I’m wondering if I can extend the trailer frame and bunks to support the boat. Any experience with extending the back-end? Any thoughts on bunks vs rollers?

Sorry, Tom, I don’t have any experience extending a trailer for a larger boat. I’ve read of others who have adapted conventional boat trailers to fit sailboats with good results, though. The prevailing wisdom is in favor of bunks over rollers so that you can float the sailboat on and off the trailer instead of winching.

Hope that helps, $tingy

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Do It Yourself Boat Trailer Tongue Extension

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While the rare trailer comes with a built-in, slide-out tongue extension, many boat trailers are simply too short for boaters to easily launch and retrieve their boats at shallow ramps without driving at least the rear wheels into the water—or worse. This is especially true for sailboats , which typically sit higher on the trailer. And amazingly, only one company can be found online making a bolt-on kit, ExtendaHitch, but it's rather expensive and may require other trailer modifications, such as sawing off the "skid leg" typically found beneath the trailer's tongue.

You could take your trailer to a welding shop to have the receiver for a removable extension welded in place, but that costs more too and is inconvenient.

Instead, you can build your own removable extension with simple tools and readily available parts that bolt together. The 6-foot extension shown here along with its own hitch coupler and the receiver hardware attached to the trailer cost only $120 for parts and took about an hour to assemble. ( Important:  An extension like this is only for use at the ramp, NOT for towing .)

The Receiver Tube Mounted on the Tongue

The extension itself is a heavy steel square tube of appropriate size for the trailer. The one shown here is 2 by 2 inches square (outer dimension) of steel a quarter inch thick and 8 feet long, providing a little more than 6 feet of extension. If you can't find heavy steel square tubing like this locally, you can order it online as low as about $75 for this length. On the vehicle end of the extension is mounted a standard hitch coupler , available in different bar sizes and for different size trailer balls.

The other end of the steel extension tube slides into the steel receiver tube that is mounted on the trailer tongue—this receiver is just like the receiver piece on many trailer hitch class 2 or 3 receivers mounted on vehicles. It comes with a half-inch hole in which you place a standard trailer hitch pin like the one shown (after drilling a hole in your extension tube to match).

You may have to get creative with where and how you mount the receiver (available in 12- and 18-inch lengths) on top of or below the trailer tongue. (You don't want it to mount if on the side, normally, because the greatest torque forces are vertical, and a side-mount could twist free or distort under stress.) In this example, the owner mounted the receiver above the tongue to avoid having to remove the triangular skid leg under the tongue. The spacers are needed to raise the receiver such that the extension clears the latch on top of the original trailer coupler. These spacers were scrap steel—very heavy rectangular tube cross-sections. Hardware-store brackets were used to bolt the receiver in place.

Can you spot the flaw in this arrangement?

A Heavier Receiver Mount

The previous photo showed the receiver mounted with 3/8-inch bolts through clamp pieces from a U bolt— the heaviest off-the-shelf clamps from the local big-box hardware store. An engineer who was consulted was concerned what would happen with any twisting or sideways force on that mounting, so the boat owner decided to beef up the mount as shown here. Quarter-inch steel bar was cut and drilled to make the clamp pieces, secured with 1/2-inch galvanized bolts. The original two clamps were kept for added strength but repositioned. For straight in-and-out trailer use at the ramp, this arrangement has proved more than strong enough for this owner's boat under 2000 lbs, though of course it should not be used for trailering the boat more than the short distance up and down the ramp.

If you have a larger boat or want an extension as strong as can be, you can have the receiver welded to the trailer in an appropriate place.

Welded Receiver

In this trailer, there was not a convenient place to mount the receiver on the trailer's tongue, so the owner had it welded farther back at the front of the trailer's frame. This required a longer extension tube to achieve the desired extension, but the long extension piece is easily stowed along the bottom of the trailer as shown here. In principle, this works just the same as the bolted-on version.

A tongue extension is easy to use and makes launch and retrieval much easier. To launch, simply back the trailer to the head of the ramp at a level point, aligned so that you will go straight back. Chock the trailer's wheels and uncouple it from your hitch, pull forward and slip the extension bar in place, pin it, and hitch the extended coupler to your vehicle and back it in.

Ultimately this is a much more controlled launch than the alternative chain or rope/webbing some boaters use to let an unhitched trailer roll down the ramp away from the vehicle. The problem is that the tongue of the trailer must be held up, requiring the use of a wheeled tongue jack or other wheels once the trailer is unhitched. Wheeled tongue jacks are not designed for the loads involved and seldom last long. Some boaters go to the trouble to mount other, large wheels to support the tongue and then use a chain extender to let the trailer roll down and to haul it back up, but the chain approach doesn't offer the same control—and ultimately costs as much as or more than the simple tongue extension you can craft yourself.

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