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EchoBoat™-160

The EchoBoat-160™ USV is a purpose-built remote survey platform for hydrographic data collection. With true one-button startup, the nimble vessel accomplishes the same results demanded of large, crewed boats more efficiently and at a fraction of the cost.  Like its renowned predecessors, the fifth generation EchoBoat-160™ integrates professional-grade sensor suites in a compact package to navigate challenging bodies of water by remote control or autonomous wayfinding. Perform hydrographic surveys remotely, safely, and confidently with this meticulously engineered unmanned surface vessel. 

Applications:  Inspection / survey of mines, sewage treatment plants, contaminated lakes, harbors and rivers. *Both remotely controlled and autonomous navigation suites available. 

Integrated Ping DSP Side Scan Sonar Available

Specifications

Survey Speed: 2 kn

Top Speed:  3 kn (Payload Dependent)

Hull Length: 1.7  m / 66.9 in

Hull Width: 0.8 m /   31.5 in

Hull Material: UV Resistant HDPE

Frame: Aluminum Powder Coated

Hardware: Stainless Steel

Empty Hull Weight: 50  kg / 110 lbs

Payload: 27 kg / 60 lbs

Power: 24 V

Communications: 2.4 GHz UHF Telemetry

Battery Endurance: 8 Hours at Survey Speed

Motor: 2x Brushless DC Outdrive

Remote Control: RCU 2.4GHz omni directional antenna

Remote Range: Up to 2 km

GPS: Compatible with All Brands - Customer Specified

Available Sonar Modules: Single Beam, Multibeam,

      ADCP, Side Scan, Sub-bottom Profiler, Magnometer

Available Auxiliary  Equipment:  Sound Velocimeter,

      Velocity Profiler or CTD, Wi-Fi Remote Desktop, HD Thermal Camera       Remote Controlled Profiling Winch, LiDAR

EchoBoat-160™

Echoboat-160.

EchoBoat 160 (2)

EchoBoat 160

EchoBoat-160 Highlight Reel

EchoBoat-160™ Blog Reel

[email protected] |   Seafloor Systems, Inc. 4475 Golden Foothill Parkway, El Dorado Hills, CA 95762 | 

+1 (530) 677-1019

Hours of Operation(PST):  

Monday            7:00 AM - 5:30 PM

Tuesday            7:00 AM - 5:30 PM

Wednesday     7:00 AM - 5:30 PM

Thursday          7:00 AM - 5:30 PM

Friday                                         Closed

Saturday                                    Closed

Sunday                                       Closed

hydrographic equipment

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Echo Charge drawbacks?

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I've seen the Xantrex Echo-Charge battery charger device highly recommended on this site as an alternative to a battery combiner relay. I have several questions about them: 1) The manual for the echo-charger says it has a no-load current draw of 50 milliamps (as opposed to 12 milliamps for the Blue Sea combiner relay). For someone who doesn't leave their boat plugged into shore power regularly, should this be a concern? This will drain down a 260 AH battery bank to 50% in a little over 100 days. I'm not suggesting that anyone would want to go that long without cranking the engine, or plugging into shore power - BUT, it still concerns me that there is a constant drain on the batteries. (I don't have any system to trickle charge my batteries yet - apart from leaving it plugged in to shorepower, which I try to avoid). 2) The recommended setup for the echo charge is: direct all charging to the house bank (alternator and shore power charger), then the echo charge will charge the starting bank when it senses >13.0V on the house batteries. What if you have a severely depleted house bank? Wouldn't the house bank pull all the current from the alternator, leaving the starting bank with no current until the house batteries get back to 13V? (am I not understanding this correctly?) 3) How do you test that the echo-charger is functioning? With a combiner, you can test the voltage of each battery bank....when they're combined, it should be similar, right? How can you tell that the echo charger is working? Thanks for any info you can provide. I'm just about to install the echo-charger, but am wondering if I should exchange it for a Blue Seas ACR.  

1. A wet cell bank of 260 amps will draw itself down by more than that each day. If you have a concern about leaving the boat unattended and without shore power for long periods of time, I would suggest a 20 watt solar panel to keep things topped off. 2. Once the alternator starts charging...the echo charge will sense over 14V rather than the actual state of charge of the house bank. So...both will be charged with the alternator on. 3. Suggest you get a voltmeter or Link system to monitor each bank. From my point of view, I don't care to monitor my start battery as it uses so little current and can thus be checked infrequently as long as I KNOW that my house bank is in good shape...'cause I can always start with my house bank if there is a problem. Still...a small voltmeter is cheap and easy to install if you need that assurance. Go with the echo charge!  

myster said: Wouldn't the house bank pull all the current from the alternator, leaving the starting bank with no current until the house batteries get back to 13V? (am I not understanding this correctly?) Click to expand...

Sense to me to I have allways thought the same.Just wire it up so it thinks "house" is actually the start.Am leaning more towards multy alts and banks presently. Mark  

Denverdon Reversing the eco-charger could have the unintended consequence of over-charging the start battery, leading to a premature death usually when you will most need it. Reversing the charge scheme (putting the Eco-charger on the house bank) would severely limit the rate at which the house bank would charge. The purpose of the Eco-charger is to ensure the start battery is not cooked as without it, the start battery would be charged at the same rate as the house bank. If, as most of us do, you have a large house bank, large charging source and a somewhat depleted house bank, the net flow of current into the house bank would be at a rate such that the start battery (presumably not equally discharged) would suffer. In most respects, every boat should be able to start off a house bank if necessary. There is nothing sacred about a fully charged start battery as long as you have a means of switching over to a house bank for starting when needed.  

k1vsk said: Denverdon Reversing the eco-charger could have the unintended consequence of over-charging the start battery, leading to a premature death usually when you will most need it. Reversing the charge scheme (putting the Eco-charger on the house bank) would severely limit the rate at which the house bank would charge. The purpose of the Eco-charger is to ensure the start battery is not cooked as without it, the start battery would be charged at the same rate as the house bank. If, as most of us do, you have a large house bank, large charging source and a somewhat depleted house bank, the net flow of current into the house bank would be at a rate such that the start battery (presumably not equally discharged) would suffer. In most respects, every boat should be able to start off a house bank if necessary. There is nothing sacred about a fully charged start battery as long as you have a means of switching over to a house bank for starting when needed. Click to expand...

• 15 A maximum charge current
• Automatically switches on/off without affecting the in-house battery bank or over-charging
• Utilizes excess current from the primary charging source"

As K1VSK said, it makes no sense at all to reverse the EchoCharge device. Among other things, you'd limit your charge on the house batteries to no more than 15 amps (the capacity of the EchoCharge), even if you had upwards of 100 amps available for the house batteries. Dumb, for sure! Cam said it well, but it bears repeating: starting batteries require very little charging. They only draw a miniscule amount of power when starting the engine (lots of amps but only for a few seconds). Typically, this power is replaced in just a few minutes after you start the engine. After that, what's the alternator to do? Idle? EchoCharge devices will typically begin sampling and charging the start battery when the voltage exceeds about 12.8. It doesn't have to be 13.0 or more. Furthermore, the charging voltage on your house batteries will reach that threshold very soon, even if they're badly depleted. Remember...it's not the resting voltage of the batteries which causes the EchoCharge to activate; it's the charging voltage . That will reach the necessary 12.8V in just a few minutes after the engine starts and the alternator begins charging the house bank. Finally, the 50mil draw on the house batteries is for all intents and purposes negligible in a properly designed system. As Cam correctly pointed out, if you anticipate being off shore power for long periods of time, you must provide some other charging source (solar panels, wind generator, etc.) to keep your batteries topped up, otherwise you're gonna kill your batteries through sulfation, stratification, and the other ills which attack chronically undercharged batteries. Bill  

But dont the chargers do this inherently on there own? The specks in the truecharge 40 says that the voltage delivered to the three banks possible to charge at one time remains the same... but the current flow wont..as the majority of current flow go's to the most depleted bank..resistance is the key here not voltage. Im I wrong?  

Still...you have SEPARATE hookups for charging each battery with the truecharge and MONITORING each battery and DIVERTING current as appropriate. With a single bank charger and no electronic testing and diverting, the TOTAL charge of ALL banks is all the battery charger sees...So... if you have a house bank of 200 amp hours and a 100ah starting battery and you are down 100ah's on your house bank but full on your starting battery...a STANDARD 3 stasge 40 amp charger will see the 300 amp hour total charge down 1/3 and apply a full 40 amps to the total bank...not 1 amp to the starter and 39 to the house. A bit oversimplified...but that is the reason to use an echocharger if one doesn't have a really sophisticated charger like yours.  

Hi emailed Sterling this: Hi! I am buying this product, being recommended by fellow cruisers: Alternator to Battery Chargers up to 130A | Sterling Power Products Need to know one thing though. I will connect it to my Gel house bank 300 Ah. The start output -> will connect to both start battery and windlass battery via relay. House bank (bank 1) + start battery (bank 2) + alternator + Sterling will be near each other. Windlass battery (bank 3) 10 m away! I want to use a not so fat cable to the windlass battery and raise the voltage near the windlass battery. One of the purposes of the windlass battery is that it is way cheaper than the 150 mm2 cable (40 m total!) required from the house bank. Do you have a echo charger or "inverter charger" I can put near the windlass battery. Am I asking to much to also get temperature sensing (I will not get that on the start battery with your product) on that battery (perhaps a feature of the echo charger/inverter charger)? Sterling start output -> relay -> start battery (short way no need for volt raise) AND to windlass battery (long way need ro raise voltage). Not sure about the relay AND an echo charger though. --- What do you guys think, please? Read the net a bit, can't seem to find my exact scenario. Cheers  

So the Echo Charge only passes 15 amps? I'm using another combiner relay that's rated to pass 55 amps and since I have a 55 amp alternator it made sense to get that one. But a couple times now when checking the battery water I've found the house bank fine and the start battery dry. Looks like the combiner is passing too much current to the start side and boiling it out. So am I right in assuming the Echo is less likely to do that with only 15 amps passing over?  

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Question about Xantrex Echo Charge

• Thread starter weinie
• Start date Apr 24, 2012
• Featured Contributors
• Musings With Maine Sail

My 27' boat is currently equipped with an 1/2/both switch, 36w solar panel w/ controller, and an AC battery charger with 2 outputs. For times when I am not docked, I would prefer the security to know both batteries are being charged either by solar or by alternator. My plan was to have a dedicated house battery and a dedicated starter battery, replace the battery switch w/ the blue seas on/off/parallel switch and add xantrex echo charge. The alternator and solar controller would be connected directly to the house battery. The question is whether the dual output AC charger will screw up the xantrex unit when the charger is plugged in since it needs to be connected to both batteries to work? Or do I need to get a new charger?  

You would have to disconnect the charger and see of there is a circuit between the two + wires. A simple ohm meter with a diode checker will suffice. Measure for a diode in both directions. If there is a high resistance in both directions you should be fine. If there is a low resistance in one direction then you need to hook up the charger so the current cannot go from the solar charged batter to the non-solar charged battery. The echo charger will take care of the non-solar charged battery. If there is a circuit in both direction then you can either install diodes or get a new charger that does speerate the charging circuits.  

weinie said: My 27' boat is currently equipped with an 1/2/both switch, 36w solar panel w/ controller, and an AC battery charger with 2 outputs. For times when I am not docked, I would prefer the security to know both batteries are being charged either by solar or by alternator. My plan was to have a dedicated house battery and a dedicated starter battery, replace the battery switch w/ the blue seas on/off/parallel switch and add xantrex echo charge. The alternator and solar controller would be connected directly to the house battery. The question is whether the dual output AC charger will screw up the xantrex unit when the charger is plugged in since it needs to be connected to both batteries to work? Or do I need to get a new charger? Click to expand

I have a promariner 20 installed. From the manual: "The ProSport's Distributed-On-Demand™ Multi-Stage Charging Technology will automatically sense and distribute 100% of the available charging amp output, 8,12,or 20 amps (model specific) to any one bank or combination of all banks. Each battery bank output is fully isolated." The solar panel is 36W. My controller, is an older lyncom model that other than having a high and low voltage cutoff, basically puts out 14.1V to a single battery. It has a nice digital readout (I know it burns mAs) that lets me press a button to check the panels out put. Randomly checking on various days shows an output ranging around 1-2A. My alternator is original putting out about 55A (I believe). My batteries are 3 year old westmarine basic starting batteries. Other than basic cabin lights, nav lights, bilge pump, I have the following that uses juice. VHF & instruments, autopilot, xm radio (~3A), and ELECTRIC head. I think honestly, I like to be able to just throw off the docklines and go. Disconnecting the dockside cable and coiling it up each time is something I like to avoid since the previous owner put this really nice panel and controller on. Edited: Right now my solar is hooked up to the common on the battery switch so I can charge either battery I choose. I also use the same battery for starting and "house" use. I would just prefer to have the second battery topped off just in case and to keep both topped off without having to remember to manually switch back and forth.  

I also have a promariner 20. Very easy to hook up.  

weinie said: I have a promariner 20 installed. From the manual: "The ProSport's Distributed-On-Demand™ Multi-Stage Charging Technology will automatically sense and distribute 100% of the available charging amp output, 8,12,or 20 amps (model specific) to any one bank or combination of all banks. Each battery bank output is fully isolated." Click to expand

Maine, Judging from your second to last post, you didn't seem too thrilled about going with this setup given the limited amount of current the panel produces in a day. Is the expense (about $200) to do this worth it, or am I better off trying to remember to just switch from battery 1 over to battery 2 every week or so? Incidently, I realized my "service on" light is rated at 1.2 watts, meaning that little light alone burns over 2A a day! Since I wired my solar controller's output to my 1/2/B switch, the service, and hence the light, need to be on when charging with the solar panel. I suppose I'd better disable or replace that light if I don't go with the xantrex, since I would still need the ability to switch which battery my solar will charge. If I did install the xantrex however, I would wire the solar controller directly to the house battery avoiding that problem since the service would be kept "off" when I'm not on the boat. Edited: oh, and incidently, the charge controller self-consumes 13mA according to the specs. With the xantrex's consumption, and the service, light, that's almost 4A/day!  

weinie said: Maine, Judging from your second to last post, you didn't seem too thrilled about going with this setup given the limited amount of current the panel produces in a day. Is the expense (about $200) to do this worth it, or am I better off trying to remember to just switch from battery 1 over to battery 2 every week or so? Incidently, I realized my "service on" light is rated at 1.2 watts, meaning that little light alone burns over 2A a day! Since I wired my solar controller's output to my 1/2/B switch, the service, and hence the light, need to be on when charging with the solar panel. I suppose I'd better disable or replace that light if I don't go with the xantrex, since I would still need the ability to switch which battery my solar will charge. If I did install the xantrex however, I would wire the solar controller directly to the house battery avoiding that problem since the service would be kept "off" when I'm not on the boat. Edited: oh, and incidently, the charge controller self-consumes 13mA according to the specs. With the xantrex's consumption, and the service, light, that's almost 4A/day! Click to expand

Any opinion regarding the yandina 100 combiner? Its much cheaper ($55 at defender) than either the echo charger or the blue seas ACR. Plus, it also comes prewired, saving on costs of battery cable (which I would need on the ACR). And like the ACR, it dosn't care if my alternator wire goes to my switch instead of directly to a battery. Best of all, it says it dosn't draw any current when not charging.  

Stu Jackson

w, Maine Sail discusses these issues in his 1-2-B Switch topic: This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about) http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615 I've had a combiner for 12 years. Works fine if you read the directions and consider putting a shutoff switch in the negative lead to turn it off when motoring for long distances. A combiner is different than an echo charger, but much like an ACR, but with usually a single voltage opening & closing setting (i.e., it can't be adjusted like an ACR).  

weinie said: Any opinion regarding the yandina 100 combiner? Its much cheaper ($55 at defender) than either the echo charger or the blue seas ACR. Plus, it also comes prewired, saving on costs of battery cable (which I would need on the ACR). And like the ACR, it dosn't care if my alternator wire goes to my switch instead of directly to a battery. Best of all, it says it dosn't draw any current when not charging. Click to expand

Sounds good. I'll take some pictures after the installation and report back. One more thing... I guess the time couldn't be better to fuse my battery wiring. The wiring from my batteries to my switch (about 10ft) and back down to the starter and alternator (prob. another 10ft tops) is 4awg (All though I will check this). I was considering the blue seas terminal fuse for ease of install with a 200A fuse on both batteries. On the end of each, I would connect the appropriate wire to the switch plus the wire to the combiner. Would I be safe in using this size fuse for both wires? Edit...Never mind... I just read this http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/75552-battery-fuse-sizing-how-what.html  

Maine Sail said: You can just connect both + outputs of the charger to the house bank if using an ECHO and the - return also goes to the house bank as well.. If you leave one + lead disconnected the charger will not operate correctly as they are voltage sensing chargers meaning all leads need to see a voltage before they do anything.. Click to expand

Solstice said: Don't mean to hijack this thread, but this comment caught my attention. I have a Charles 5000 SP and I did disconnect the lead to my reserve battery cuz it is an AGM and much smaller than my 400 amp house bank. Could you elaborate on what to look for as far as my charger not working correctly? Thanks MS... Click to expand

Maine Sail said: What about it is not working correctly? Every charger will have different ways to set it up. That comment was for the ProSport not other chargers... Click to expand

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