c&c 33 sailboat

A dual-purpose boat prepares for racing and romping on the Great Lakes Many builders have tried to perfect the racer/cruiser design. The idea is to have a boat that is comfortable enough to cruise, but still fun and competitive around the buoys. C&C has come as close as anyone to balancing this formula. We have been looking for a boat to cruise, a lot of weekends but some longer trips as well, but we still want to have fun on Wednesday evenings. Naturally, we looked to C&C. We spent a lot of time looking at boats, the 30 was a little too small, and the 37 and 41 a bit too big, not to mention too expensive. The 33 and 35 seemed close to the mark. We talked a few brokers into demo rides and we fell in love with the 33. The boat was fast, but did not require a lot of tweaking to go fast. It was small enough to handle, but large enough to carry our cruising gear or all of the racing crew on the rare nights when everyone turns up. C&C actually produced two 33-foot boats, the 33 MK I from 1974 to 1977, and the 33 MK II starting in 1984. The newer 33 is a more modern design, but we fell in love with the classic lines of the MK I. A freshwater find With our sights set on a 33 MK1, we went to search for our boat. The boat had a big production run, and a lot of them are still on the Great Lakes. We found a very nice 33 in Michigan, but there were other interested buyers and we did not want to get in a bidding war. After a few months of looking we found a solid 33 in Ohio. It needed a little work but all the important bits were there. For the record, we bought a 1978 33 MK I, and after the dust settled we paid $32,500. We closed the deal on the boat in mid-July, and rather than diving into the refit straight away we decided to go sailing. We had some great weekend trips, and spent a full week aboard in August. As the summer waned, we took stock of the season and decided where to spend our refit money. Our goal was a comfortable boat that we could race at a respectable beer-can level. We needed a solid, slippery hull, a dependable engine, efficient sails and maybe a few toys. Our hull was in good shape overall but had some fairly chunky bottom paint on it. Since the bottom paint was a little flaky and we didn't know what type of paint it was, we decided to remove it. In a classic "while we were at it" way, we decided to do a barrier coat job at the same time. The worst part of this job was the removal of the old paint. We were able to rent vacuum sanders from our boatyard, which kept the mess down and protected the environment, but it was still a ton of work and very dusty. Two of us were able to sand the bottom to gelcoat in a weekend. Between the sander rental, sanding disks, safety gear and a case of beer, the job cost us $275. With a nice clean bottom, we got to work on the barrier coat, choosing Interlux Interprotect 2000E. The first step was a wipe-down with solvent to be sure the hull was clean, and then five coats of Interprotect. The Interprotect system is quick drying, with short overcoat times, so we were able to get all the coats on in one very long weekend. With painting materials, solvents, and the Interprotect we spent $470. Finally we were on to bottom paint. A slippery race bottom in fresh water means VC17, specifically Interlux VC-17m Extra with Biolux. This is a copper-based paint with Teflon for slipperiness, and a Biolux to keep the slime under control. Since we were starting with a fresh clean bottom we chose to apply the manufacturer's recommended three coats. The paint and materials cost us $450. We were tired and paint-spattered, but for a little over $1,000, three weekends and a lot of called-in favors we had a beautiful new bottom. Mostly to psych out our competition, we took another afternoon and burnished the bottom with 600-grit sandpaper. The C&C 33 used the Universal Atomic 4 engine exclusively. The trusty Atomic 4 has a bad rap, but it is really a pretty good little engine. The biggest complaint is the "danger" of using gasoline. Yes, gasoline is explosive, but it is not that dangerous. Remember, there are millions of gasoline-powered powerboats in the world that cruise around without incident. The important thing is make sure that the fuel system is sound and to be responsible with the use of the bilge blower. Even though we trusted our little engine, it started hard and ran a little rough. We called in our local Atomic 4 expert for a little tune-up. Our mechanic did a tune-up, changed the oil, replaced the starter battery and gave us a little maintenance lesson for $420. After this small investment the engine started and ran very nicely. A new suit of sails Since we were looking to competitively race, we needed a decent set of sails. We wanted a new mainsail, genoa and spinnaker. Our budget would not allow both racing and cruising sails, so we needed a good compromise in the sail material and design. We turned to our trusted sailmaker Peter Grimm of Doyle Sailmakers in Fort Lauderdale. The C&C 33 was designed in the day of the short boom and large foretriangle. The mainsail is extremely high aspect at approximately 3.5:1, meaning it is 3.5 times as tall as the boom is long. The space between the backstay and the back of the boom is much larger than you would typically see. Peter used this space to build a very full roach mainsail with 15 percent larger sail area than the original main. He supported the roach with two full top battens and two long bottom battens. The sail was designed with slightly more draft for power and a straight leech profile for pointing. The increased roach helps boat speed in all breezes and all angles of sailing, especially reaching and running. Peter built this sail of Contender MAXX sailcloth, a low-stretch, high-performance polyester laminate material. The sail and cloth have served us well on the race course and is durable enough for extended cruising. The mainsail cost us $2,700. For our boat, Peter recommended a 150-percent genoa to give the performance we need for light wind on the Great Lakes. The C&C derives much of its power from its large foretriangle. The 150 is almost twice as big as our mainsail. The sail was cut with the draft well forward and a very straight exit angle on the leech, this sail shape allows for a much wider groove making it easier to maintain consistent boat speed. The clew height was set at the lifelines with a nice round foot. This will allow the clew to pass easily over the lifelines yet still maintain the performance of a more tedious-to-handle deck sweeper. Peter added a foam luff pad to give us a good shape when we furl the sail down. To protect the sail from the sun yet not impact performance, Peter recommended a zip-up external UV cover. We could have added a sewn-on UV panel but it adds extra weight and changes the sail shape in the leech area, where it really counts. This sail was also built from Contender MAXX cloth. This big genoa, with the external cover, cost us $3,925, a tidy sum but the cost of doing business on the race course. The C&C 33 spinnaker is a real workhorse downwind. The sail is very large because the foretriangle is so large. Peter designed a versatile shape for "pole-on-the-headstay reaching" and to sail deep downwind angles. To keep the boat moving fast without a lot of tweaking, Peter cut the sail with a large groove-he joked that the sail was designed to be trimmed "beer in hand." For fabric we chose Contender Super Kote 75, a .75-ounce nylon with a polyurethane coating. We appreciated just how big that chute was when got the bill, $3,450, but that is for a whopping 921 square feet of spinnaker. To be able to efficiently trim those new sails we decided to do a tune-up of all blocks and winches. We started by washing all of the grit from the blocks with hot, soapy water. After a thorough rinse and dry we lubed up each one with McLube Sailkote. Next came the winch rebuilds. We took down each winch, cleaned the parts in solvent and reassembled with new lubrication. Some of the pawl springs were a bit sprung so we replaced them. Parts are not readily available for Barient winches, but Harken springs fit well and are a little beefier than the original Barient springs. This job took all weekend but the deck hardware all worked like brand new. We spent about $40 on the solvent, Sailkote, pawl springs, winch grease and lightweight oil. We did a lot of work, but we have a solid boat that we know inside and out. I envision a great summer of relaxing evenings on the hook and some exciting ones on the course.

Project list and cost summary Retrofit budget: 1. Bottom strip $275 2. Barrier coat $470 3. Bottom paint $450 4. Engine work $420 5. Mainsail $2,700 6. 150% genoa $3,925 7. Spinnaker $3,450 8. Winch rebuild $40

Total retrofit work $11,730 36% of purchase price Grand total $44,320

Sources Interlux Yacht Finishes, www.yachtpaint.com , (800) 468-7589; Doyle Sailmakers, www.doyleflorida.com , 800-541-7601; Contender Sailcloth, www.contendersailcloth.com , (508) 674-7700; McLube Sailkote, www.mclube.com , (800) 262-5823.

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By Larry Kean & John Schieffelin Originally published in Boating February 1975

C&C 33 2

The c&c 33 2 is a 32.58ft masthead sloop designed by c&c design team and built in fiberglass by c&c yachts between 1984 and 1988., 200 units have been built..

The C&C 33 2 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

C&C 33 2 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Upgrading the C&C 33 Part I

Part 1-halfway through a refit of our c b c 33, we're glad we installed a schaefer 2000 headsail furler, and sorry we trusted an attwood bilge pump switch..

In July 1990 we bought a 1975 C & C 33 to function as a test platform for Practical Sailor. We chose it above others for several reasons: The design seemed typical of many modern sailboats, with a fin keel and spade rudder and moderate displacement; C & C had a good reputation; and the price was right.

During the next several years we began a protracted period of intensive upgrading. While the upgrading process is a long haul, and we have much left to do, now seems like a good time to stop and assess what we’ve done, and what we would have done differently, knowing what we know now

Hot Knots, as she was called at the time of purchase, was sailed from Greenport, New York to Newport on a blustery day. The Atomic 4 engine quit at the dock, but the winds afforded a speedy reach without further mishap. On reflection, it was a miracle we made it.

At home in Newport Harbor, we had amechanic look at the engine. His judgment was that the Atomic 4 didn’t have that many hours on it, and probably didn’t need replacing. He got it running by pulling the spark plugs and banging on the stuck valves. Over the next few months, however, this was a repeated scenario. We never knew if the engine would start or not. It also overheated. By the end of the summer we’d spent about $1,000 for emergency calls.

The next year we retained a new mechanic who advised that the engine be pulled and overhauled. Except forreplacing the oil pump and thermostat, the major workwas cleaning deposits from the cooling system, which was severely restricted. On relaunching, it continued to overheat, though it started easily. The mechanic eventually figured that some additional deposits had come loose and were restricting water flow. Once these were removed, the engine performed flawlessly. Now we have $3,500 invested in the engine, nearly all of it labor.

In the PS Advisor section of the March 15,1992 issue, we responded to another Atomic 4 reader with the argument that nursing an old gasoline engine may be a false economy. For an additional $3,000, we could have repowered with a new Yanmar or Universal diesel. That is about the amount we could have expected to get back on resale of the boat, so it wouldn’t have been wasted money. We wouldn’t have to replace the non-ignition-proof electrical panel, and we’d have more confidence in our powerplant.

The C & C 33 came equipped with Navtec rod rigging, and this looks pretty good, even at 17 years of age, though it should probably bereplaced, for safety’s sake. When we installed a Schaefer 2000 headsail furling gear, the forestay was replaced with wire. The Schaefer gear has performed very well and we have no complaints. BOAT1U.S. and JSI discount the 2000 to about $1,500 for 9132-inch wire, including the optional control line blocks. You’ll have to buy a rivet gun for about $10, cut one of the aluminum extrusions with a hacksaw, and install a Sta-Lok or Norseman terminal fitting. This job is well within the capability of the average handyman. Just remember the old carpenter’s adage: Measure twice, cut once.

Some of the sheaves at the masthead had worn from repeated loadings of the wire-rope halyards. A local rigger replaced them for about $150.

While the running rigging still is serviceable, it has degraded and should be replaced. Based on our August 15, 1991 test, New England Ropes would be our first choice.

To prevent water from entering the cabin where the keel-stepped mast passes through the cabin top, we used the Sailing Specialties Universal Mast Boot ($26.95 discount). An adhesive is supplied, and in addition you’re supposed to secure the top and bottom with large hose clamps; we used tape instead. The wooden wedges that center the mast prevented a good fit. A friend of ours, with the same problem, once sawed off his wedges, but then found them hard to remove. The Universal Mast Boot does look better than tape, and as long as it keeps out water we suppose it’s a satisfactory product. Still, we have yet to find the perfect mast boot; they never seem to look as good as the pictures.

The Steering System

In the May 15,1991 issue, we reported on a failed Pearson spade rudder. What had happened was water migrated down the rudderstock and attacked the welds joining the stock to the webs around which the fiberglass rudder was constructed. Though the webbing was deemed inadequate and the design poor, we have since become aware of many other spade rudders failing for the same reason. Indeed, last year on our C & C we noticed rusty water weeping from the rudder collar around the stock. Our surveyor suggested drilling a series of holes into the bottom of the rudder until we hit the bottom web. Sure enough, rusty water drained out. We later patched the holes with epoxy and attempted to caulk the collar. This scenario makes a good case for fiberglass rudders and stocks, which some companies, including Tillotson-Pearson, are now manufacturing. We also are reminded of the trusty bronze rudder hardware on older boats. It’s helpful to remember that stainless steel doesn’t belong underwater.

At the end of our first season, we lost steering on the way to our haul-out. The emergency tiller brought us in. On inspection, the wire that connects the pedestal sprocket chain to the quadrant had broken, because a rudder stop had sheered. Edson supplied a replacement kit for about $60, which is easy enough to install, assuming you can work upside down on your back without seeing your fingers! A trouble light and/or some sort of lighted headgear helps. Be sure to take up tension after it’s been used a few times, as wire does stretch.

The 36-inch Edson steering wheel is aluminum, with some sort of beige coating that had half peeled away. When we called Edison for suggestions they told us they don’t make that type of wheel any longer and there was nothing they could do except sell us a new stainless Destroyer wheel for $241. The alternative is to sand down the old one and paint it with polyurethane paint. The problem is the pitting in the aluminum, which would be a devil to fill and fair. In our opinion, the coated aluminum wheel was a mistake.

The paint also has peeled off parts of the pedestal, which will require sanding and painting, too. Whenever we look at it, dismayed at the work ahead, we remember a Hinckley spokesman telling us they began fabricating their own pedestals some years ago, from fiberglass, for this very reason.

Like any older boat, the hardware begins to show signs of wear. Most conspicuous on the C & C was the black anodized aluminum pieces. The anodizing was beginning to wear off the toe rail, but we saw no need to replace it. The stem head fitting, however, cracked one day, presumably from stress induced by the mooring I pennant. C & C wants $550 to cast a new one.

This reminds us once again why we don’t like cast aluminum-it fails without warning. We’re looking into a custom stainless steel fabrication. Hardware manufacturer Garhauer Marine says they can do it for about 40 percent less. We’ll let you know what we decide and how it looks.

The Barient winches still work fine, though some of the chrome plating has worn away. A circlip that holds the drum to the spindle was missing on one, which was easily obtained by calling International Marine in Guilford, Connecticut.

Recently we learned that IM will no longer offer standard Barient winches. It’s a complicated story. In a nutshell, when IM acquired Lewmar in 1990, the Office of Fair Trade in Great Britain said IM had a monopoly in the market as they already owned Barient. As a result, IM sold the Barient manufacturing facility in Australia to the manager and retained world- wide distribution rights (except for England). As luck would have it, the plant fell into receivership. Without a manufacturing facility, IM reluctantly made the decision to drop standard Barient winches. Custom Barient winches are still available via the company’s facility in England.

We were told by an IM spokesperson that Lewmar owns about 65 per- cent of the winch market worldwide, Barient about 10 percent, and the remaining 10 percent divided between other manufacturers such as Maxwell, Andersen and Harken.

Like many boat owners, we’d love to upgrade our boat with self-tailing winches. But even a pair of primaries would set us back about $1,400. Though you can still buy a new Barient, and parts will continue to be available for up to five years, it wouldn’t make sense to choose them for upgrades. Based on our February 1, 1992 evaluation, and November 15, 1992 update of the redesigned Lewmar line, it would be a tough decision. The Harken B40.2ST in chrome discounts for about $715. The Lewmar 40 C ST discounts for about $689. We ranked the Harken tops in efficiency and the Lewmar tops in ease of maintenance. We consider the choice a toss-up.

The Schaefer genoa lead blocks still work fine after 17 years, as do the cam cleats. New ball bearing lead blocks, adjustable from the cockpit, would be a handy upgrade. We’ll be testing soon a new ball bearing car from Garhauer that is supposed to fit over many existing tracks.

Replacing the cam cleats with Ronstan C-Cleats or Harken Cam-Matics, our picks in an August 1,1992 report, would be an inexpensive way to improve line handling.

All seacocks in the boat were re- placed two seasons ago. As reported in the August 15, 1992 issue, we wouldn’t use the original type of RC Marine (Forespar) polymer seacocks, as the ball too often tends to get sticky, resulting in broken handles. We would consider F’orespar9s new design, but only after testing. Of the bronze types we installed, both the Groco Buna-N- Rubber and Jabsco ball valve with a Teflon seat appear to be sound choices. We wouldn’t buy Wilcox-Crittenden barrel-type valves, the standard for decades; they’re priced much too high and tend to leak.

The C & C has a partial fiberglass pan, forming the sole and berths. Teak- faced plywood forms the backrests, bulkheads and doors. Time and a few deck leaks had caused them to weather and turn silver. We sanded every- thing down-big, big job!-and applied two coats of Interlux #60 Rubbed Effect Varnish ($12/qt.). This looks Left: The Attwood bilge pump switch failed in less than half a season. Note the aluminum plate for the table leg. The old leg was made of stainless steel and corroded- dumb design! Great, but we have noticed that a whitish, mildew-like fuzz has formed on some areas. It wipes off easily, but now we’re wondering if a higher gloss varnish might have given the spores less of a foothold.

The light fixtures were corroded and dated looking. We replaced two fluorescents overheads with 12″ Triangle fluorescents ($34.95 each) in the main cabin. Like the old ones, the mounting bases are painted steel, and we suspect they too will eventually corrode, but we couldn’t find any- thing that would fit made of brass, stainless steel or plastic.

For the berth lights, we bought six Triangle brass lights ($22.95). They look great and work fine; our only complaint is that the mounting base doesn’t have a groove for lead wires. It’s assumed the leads will come out of the bulkhead directly into the in- side of the base. Cost of replacement bulbs is anastonishing$2.95. We hope they last a long time.

We also bought from BOAT1U.S. a Solid Brass Dome Light ($13.95), which is fine, and a Night Vision Two-Way Dome Light ($32.95), which looks chintzy and reflects the shadow of its innards on the white plastic cover. We wouldn’t buy it again.

Throughout the cabin we used Interlux Brightside Polyurethane, a one- part paint that sells for about $16 per quart at discount. It flowed out very well, is easy to clean and appears to be quite durable for non-traffic surfaces. We plan to compare it to Pettit Easy-Poxy, Z-Spar Miracote and Monopoxy enamels. These one-part paints are considerably tougher and more abrasion-resistant than conventional enamels, are easy to use, and give a professional, sprayed-on look with reason- able attention to application.

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Thanks for a marvelous posting! I definitely enjoyed reading it, you may be a great author. Looking forward to the next posts 🙂

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C&C 33-2

C&C 33-2 is a 32 ′ 6 ″ / 9.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Robert Ball and C&C Design and built by C&C Yachts between 1984 and 1988.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Keel/cb version also available. Draft BD: 6.5’/1.98m; BU: 4.33’/1.32m.

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