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Everything you need to know about Yacht Varnish

Applying Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish to wooden garden features is a fantastic way of prolonging them. It can be used on all smooth planed exterior wood and offers incredibly tough protection against damage and decay – whilst still highlighting the timber’s natural colour thanks to its clear formula.

The appetite for incorporating natural materials throughout the home and garden is on the up – and as such, we have seen a rise in the number of people interested in garden features such as wooden pergolas, hardwood furniture and rustic wooden details.

When speaking to customers about their ideal garden designs, don’t shy away from incorporating these wooden elements for fear of them warping or decaying in the unpredictable British weather. With the correct preparation, timber can offer the durable and long-lasting finish customers are after.

What is Yacht Varnish?

Yacht Varnish is an incredibly durable solvent-based varnish that was originally used to on boats to protect the wood and prevent it from decaying over time. Nowadays, this type of product is more commonly used for exterior household projects, when you are looking to give timber a high-gloss finish that lasts.

Once applied, Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish is tough and will protect timber against everyday knocks and scratches as well as harsh weather conditions to prevent cracking, peeling and blistering. What’s more, it is formulated to protect the wood from the damaging effects of the sun and prevent it from discolouring, fading or greying over time. This makes it ideal for features such as wooden pergolas, doors and window frames that are exposed to the elements all year round and ensures that they will last for years to come.

Why choose Ronseal Trade?

Cleverly, Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish has been formulated to offer the excellent weatherproofing and durability you would expect from a solvent-based varnish but without the long re-coat times. Impressively, it offers around half the re-coat time of a typical solvent-based varnish; it is rainproof in just four hours and it can be re-coated in as little as eight hours. This means that time on site and disruption to the customer can be reduced.

To find out more about Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish click here .

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Classic Yacht Varnish

Traditional Polyurethane Yacht Varnish either high gloss or a smooth satin  varnish finish. As always, manufactured in the UK to our specifications

• Premium Quality, Polyurethane based varnish for long life and durability.
• High Gloss for best the possible high sheen results
• Satin finish yacht varnish recommended for cabins and interior where a high gloss finish is less desirable

Premium Quality Polyurethane Classic Yacht Varnish.

Premier Classic Yacht Boat Varnish - High Gloss - 1 Litre

A Traditional single pack polyurethane yacht varnish either in high gloss or satinFlexible with exce..

£29.99 Ex Tax: £24.99

Premier Classic Yacht Boat Varnish - Satin - 1 Litre

Marine Yacht Varnish

$ 65.00 – $ 155.00

Classic, interior-exterior alkyd spar varnish.

Surfaces: Marine Yacht Varnish produces an exceptionally durable, high-gloss finish on most wooden surfaces – not recommended for decks.

Applications: Boats, yachts, outdoor furniture, doors, cabinets, furniture and window trim.

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Description

DESCRIPTION Marine Yacht Varnish is a classic alkyd varnish, formulated to the highest Dutch standards. Marine Yacht Varnish has been the coating of choice for discerning boatmen from Schoonhoven to Singapore for over one hundred years. This varnish is used by many of the finest Northern European yards.

Marine Yacht Varnish is easy to apply and produces an unusually high build. This coating is suitable for use over most other varnishes, both traditional and urethane. We suggest that when applying this varnish over an existing finish, test the compatibility on a small, unobtrusive area. Marine Yacht Varnish has excellent weather resistance properties and provides a high degree of U.V. protection. Marine Yacht Varnish performs consistently well at every latitude on vessels ranging from luxury yachts to fishing boats.

SURFACE PREPARATION Surfaces to be varnished should be dry, free of dust, chalk, grease and all foreign material, which would affect adhesion.

Dust and Chalk, etc, should be eliminated.

Remove grease and wax with denatured alcohol.

Previously varnished surfaces must be dulled by light sanding.

APPLICATION Tools: Use a first quality, clean, natural bristle brush (we recommend the Omega Small Flats, S57’s or the Omega Large Full Oval S55-2). NEVER use a brush for varnishing if it has been used previously for painting.

New woodwork: After surface preparation (sanding, etc.) and cleaning, wipe down surface with a clean cloth impregnated with denatured alcohol. We recommend the application of four or more coats of Marine Yacht Varnish, allowing twenty-four hours of drying time between coats. Surfaces should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper – 220 grit – and tacked between coats.

On previously varnished surfaces: Varnished surfaces which are sound should be sanded, cleaned thoroughly and wiped down with a clean cloth impregnated with denatured alcohol. Apply two or more coats of Marine Yacht Varnish, allowing twenty-four hours of drying time between coats. Surfaces should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper – 220 grit – and tacked between coats.

On previously varnished surfaces in extremely poor condition:  It is recommended that the old varnish be removed completely, then proceed as for new woodwork.

Exterior Application s: It is highly recommended to apply a minimum of 5 coats of Marine Yacht Varnish on any exterior woodwork to strengthen the durability and longevity of finish. Additionally, to maintain the high luster of this varnish, it is necessary to apply a yearly dress coat as well.

Work area should always be well ventilated.

NEVER shake container. To avoid bubbles varnish should only be stirred.

Avoid dust contamination by re-sealing open containers immediately.

To achieve a satin finish with Marine Yacht Varnish we recommend the application of a single finish coat of Eurothane Satin Varnish over a Marine Yacht Varnish.

TO COMPLETE YOUR VARNISH JOB AND BRING THE FINISH TO ABSOLUTE PERFECTION, PLEASE QUICKLY, GENTLY AND LIGHTLY BUFF YOUR VARNISH WORK TWENTY FOUR HOURS AFTER THE APPLICATION OF THE FINAL COAT WITH 0000 STEEL WOOL. THIS WILL MAKE THE FINISH UNIFORM AND REMOVE SLIGHT IMPERFECTIONS RESULTING FROM AIRBORNE DUST. MAINTENANCE Easy to clean. Wash (scrub if necessary) with a very weak solution of a mild, powdered detergent and cold water, rinse and dry (buff) to avoid water spots. Do not use liquid household cleaners or harsh detergents as they will dull the surface.

PACKAGING/COVERAGE .25L container covers 42 square feet .75L container covers 126 square feet 2.5L container covers 420 square feet

STORAGE Almost unlimited in original unopened containers.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

• Binder: Traditional long-oil alkyd varnish
• Solvent: White Spirits
• Thinner/Clean up: FPE Mineral Spirits
• Specific gravity [g/cm3]: 0.90
• Specular Gloss ( 85° ) – 80-85 GU
• Solids contents: Approximately 46% by volume
• Drying time: 2 to 4 hours tack free | 24 hours recoatable

* Under normal environmental conditions, this product requires no thinning. Clean up with FPE Mineral Spirits.

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET Marine Yacht Varnish

Questions? Call us: 1-800-332-1556

Note: The photographs of FPE paint colors you’ll see on our website are often custom and proprietary colors crafted from our clients and designers. Since FPE offers unlimited custom colors, we do not know the exact paint color of any photograph.

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What’s the Best Varnish for Your Yacht?

Looking for the  best yacht insurance ? Buy your  sailing yacht insurance  online at Admiral Marine, or contact our expert team for advice.

Varnishing your yacht is an essential part of its care and maintenance. The benefits are twofold: yacht varnish protects your boat from the elements, while also giving it a beautiful shiny finish. But with so many different yacht and marine varnishes to choose from, it can be difficult to know which one is best for your boat.

In this article, we’ll run through some of the most popular types of yacht varnish on the market to help you choose the right option.

What is Yacht Varnish?

Yacht varnish is an extremely durable solvent-based coating that is designed to protect the wood that yachts are made of and stop it decaying over time. Most varnishes are made up of a penetrating oil, resin and solvent. Although most yacht varnish is applied with a brush, it is possible to buy yacht varnish spray.

Different Types of Yacht Varnish Finish

There are many different types of finish to choose from, so you’ll need to know a little about them to decide which is the best yacht varnish for you.

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Yacht Varnish Brands

There are various brands that produce yacht varnish. Here are a couple of the most popular:

Screwfix Yacht Varnish

Screwfix is a retailer in the UK that sells a variety of products, including hardware and building supplies. They may carry different brands and types of yacht varnish. Yacht varnish provides resistance to water, UV rays, and other environmental elements. Yacht varnishes often contain additives to enhance their durability and performance in marine conditions.

Ronseal Yacht Varnish

A durable, long-lasting marine varnish for wood that flexes with the movement of the wood and resists peeling and cracking. This varnish is slightly more pricey than the Screwfix varnish, but gets great reviews. You can buy the Ronseal brand of yacht varnish in B&Q and other retailers.

How to Varnish Your Yacht

Varnishing a yacht is fairly straightforward, if a little time-consuming. First you’ll need to carefully sand down the entire surface that you want to varnish to get it looking smooth. Then use a soft brush to wipe off any excess dust and debris, since you don’t want it getting trapped in the varnish.

Finally, use a paintbrush to coat the yacht with varnish. Leave it to dry for the recommended amount of time on the tin, then apply additional coats as required. Always check the instructions of your varnish type, and if unsure consult with an expert before starting.

Yacht varnish is solvent-based and contains toxic chemicals, which means it should not be used for varnishing animal enclosures (for example, rabbit hutches or reptile enclosures).

• What is yacht varnish used for? Yacht varnish is used for sealing and protecting wood on boats and yachts. It is also commonly used for outdoor items such as wooden doors, window frames or pergolas.
• What type of varnish is yacht varnish? Yacht varnish is a solvent-based outdoor varnish that is extremely durable. It is usually made up of tung oil and polyurethane resin. 
• What is the best varnish to use on a boat? The type of varnish that is best for your boat will depend on the type of wood your boat is made from and the finish you are looking for. Tung oil varnish is a safe bet for most boats, or you may prefer to use a one-part polyurethane varnish for added durability.
• What is the difference between yacht varnish and outdoor varnish? In general, yacht varnish dries quicker and is designed for marine conditions, so it’s likely to be more durable than outdoor varnish. However, yacht varnish is unlikely to have an anti-slip formulation, making it unsuitable for decking around the home.

Admiral Marine is a trading name of Admiral Marine Limited which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FRN 306002) for general insurance business. Registered in England and Wales Company No. 02666794 at 1st Floor, One The Square, Temple Quay, Bristol, BS1 6DG

If you wish to register a complaint, please contact the Compliance and Training Manager on  [email protected] .  If you are unsatisfied with how your complaint has been dealt with, you may be able to refer your complaint to the Financial Ombudsman Service (FOS).  The FOS website is  www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk

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Boat Varnish 101

• By George Sass, Jr.
• Updated: November 25, 2009

ytgnov25enewsvarn525.jpg

When is it time to revarnish your exterior brightwork? I used to apply at least three coats on the trim of my 1962 Pacemaker every spring. In addition, I would make sure two coats were applied in the fall to protect the finish from the long winter ahead. Applying one coat of varnish, especially after the prep and the taping involved, is a waste of time. Make sure you apply at least two coats.

Pay close attention to any deterioration around seams and edges, or where water has been able to intrude. Do not let these spread. I had an issue around my stanchion bases, until I removed these and rebedded the bases, fighting off the moisture. If you see light areas or dead varnish, you’ll need to repair and build these back up before finish coats are applied to the entire surface.

To make this repair, the first thing you want to do is to remove the old varnish. I continue to swear by the Red Devil 1-inch scrapers. I’ve had several for decades and they work well for small tasks like seam repair. Just make sure you keep the blade sharp. Also, be careful not to mark the wood or dig too deep with the scraper.

While repairing seams or small blemishes, try to keep the area you are working with small. The object is to fair in the damaged spot with the good varnish. By keeping this area relatively small, the fairing job is much easier.

A common mistake made with this process is not having the patience to fair bare wood after you remove the old varnish. Believe me I’ve kicked myself on more than one occasion for not taking the proper steps. You want to start with 120 grit paper, then go up to a 150-sheet, and end with a 220-grit once the wood is smooth. If this is not done properly, you can be left with scratches from the scraper and sanding.

The mahogany transom on my Pacemaker would often lift at the scarf joints. In a few areas, water would penetrate and darken the joints. If your wood has a few of these dark spots, do yourself a favor, and take the time to bleach these out with a teak care product and soft pad. Make sure the area is completely dry before you varnish, or the entire process will be for naught.

After the spot is stripped, you may need to stain the area in order to blend it with the rest of the brightwork. This is more common, in my opinion, with mahogany finishes. With teak, I’ve seen people go nuts trying to “match” the finish to a uniformed look. My friend Bruce Livingston, who built Little Harbor custom sailboats, and worked with me at Grand Banks, and is now at Vicem (and they know wood) used to say the object is to “blend.” I agree. But if you’re set on staining, go with a product from the same company as your varnish.

And make doubly sure that you stir until your hand falls off. I’ve ruined my work by applying a stain, but all the pigment was stuck at the bottom of the can. So all I did was smear colorless oil. Great move, Sass.

Then it’s time to start laying some varnish on the prepped spots. What type of brush? To build coats, I go with foam brushes at this point. I can toss them after each application and save my finish brushes for the larger applications.

When applying varnish to bare wood, make sure you thin the first coat. I thin the first coat by 50 percent. Since this dries in a few hours, you can go back on the same day with a second coat, thinned by 25 percent. Do not sand after these coats.

Then, you can build the spots back with varnish and minimal thinner. Apply one coat a day and sand with a 220 grit paper, until the areas are built up to the same thickness as the surrounding varnish. Then it’s time to varnish the entire area to get the golden finish.

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How to varnish a wooden boat

By BEN JEFFERIES from CB263

Surface preparation is essential to a decent varnish job. How many times have we heard that? Sadly it’s still true, so be prepared for it to equate to 70 per cent of the job.

Remove the old varnish with a heat gun or paint stripper. Be wary of sanding it off: it’s hard work, very dusty, and you’ll be sanding some of the wood away unnecessarily.

You can get rid of black stains with oxalic acid or normal bleach. Be sure to neutralise afterwards with plenty of water then sand to 180-grit. I then clean out the hoover filter and go over every inch sucking all the dust out of the grain. I find a brush attachment on the hoover helps.

Now go and change the clothes you were sanding in which will be covered in dust.

Lastly, tack rag: make your own from cheese cloth (or a piece of old cotton T-shirt). Dip it in white spirit, drop a few drops of varnish on it and wring it out.

Plan your route with the brush to keep that ‘wet edge’. I would try to do about a square foot at a time. Try to arrange your work so you can see it in a reflected light source. Some old-timers wear polarised glasses; apparently they help to see the wet edge.

Thin the first coat by up to half

This is less for penetration (unthinned varnish will penetrate anyway if it stays liquid long enough) but more for a thinner film that will cure harder faster, making it easier to sand sooner. It will probably raise the grain as well, so the next day, take a used piece of 180- or 240-grit paper and sand carefully, avoiding cutting into the varnish.

For subsequent coats – this is the single most important factor in getting a glass finish – thin your varnish so that it ‘flows’. If your brush ‘tears’ or drags, the varnish is too thick. I thin all makes of varnish at least 10 per cent from a new can. If you’ve thinned it too much you will see matt patches as it dries. Don’t worry about them – for your next coat, thin it a bit less.

As you go down the can you will have to keep thinning; and every time you open the can some more solvent has evaporated.

Get the mixture right – it takes a bit of practice – and your brush will glide effortlessly, delivering a uniform layer to your surface where then all it has to do is level off. Work fast and try not to go back over previous strokes – the varnish will already be thicker. If you find you’re getting ‘holidays’ (dry patches) charge your brush with more varnish. If you’re getting ‘curtains’ (runs and drips) charge your brush less.

Some people like to follow up ‘tipping off’ with an upright ‘dry’ brush. I find I don’t need to, but if you do, ideally have someone working a few strokes behind you. In short; get it on quick and leave it alone. As for ‘The Flow’ you’ll know it when you’ve got it.

Levelling off

This is the next most important stage. Even the finest brushes will leave brush strokes, but they will level off if conditions are right. So what the varnish needs is time to dry slowly so the brush strokes disappear.

Time and again I see people varnishing on a hot sunny day. ‘Wonderful day for it’ they say, waving a dripping brush at me. No it’s not. Choose a perfectly still and overcast day – temperature 15-20 0 C. If you want to get technical – relative humidity as near to 60 per cent as possible. By perfectly still, I mean smoke off your roll-up rising vertically. Wet varnish is a dust magnet; the slightest breeze will exacerbate the problem.

Try to apply a coat a day. The molecular chains link up between ‘uncured’ coats. If you leave it two weeks the varnish cures fully and a new chain has to start. Cut the dust nibs with 320-grit and tack rag between coats.

Mirror finish

So you’ve got eight or nine coats on – it’s looking good, but not quite glass. Here’s what I do. Give it a couple of days to harden off and flatten with 320 wet & dry in a sanding block. Lubricate well with soapy water. Wash the dust off and tack rag. Then thin your varnish as much as you dare (so you won’t be left with those matt patches). Effectively you’re making a ‘wiping varnish’, which, because it is thinned, will level better and dry faster, reducing dust nibs. Get the last coat on, don’t play with it and walk away. When you return the next morning it should be like looking into a glass of real ale.

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• Ronseal Yacht Varnish Gloss Finish
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Daryl and Nic are applying varnish (after many, many hours of prep) and it is looking great!

2 thoughts on “ Varnish! ”

The glow of old wood is so amazing.

oh my Nonchalant….look at you coming back to life.

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• International Marine Coatings
• International Protective Coatings

Schooner is a premium one-component high gloss varnish which has exceptional durability and is suitable for interior & exterior use. This product is easy to apply and has a long lasting warm colour.

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Good to know

• Excellent water resistance, silky application and self-levelling properties
• A deep, rich gloss that’s easy to apply
• For interior and exterior use with great UV protection

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Contains detailed information on everything from the substances used to the application method.

• Technical datasheet - EN (PDF 195KB)

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• Sales code YVA086
• Revision Date 20200901

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Simply use this tool to check compatibility with the antifouling product you already have on your hull. If you need any assistance, feel free to contact us for support.

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