iwc portugieser yacht club rose gold

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390505

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Model #: iw390501 IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5mm Mens Watch

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• Soldi 18kt rose gold case with fine brushed finished edges & polished finished bezel ring & lugs.
• Silver main dial.
• Slightly recessed silver sub-dials.
• Applied polished rose gold toned Arabic Numeral hour markers.
• Applied polished rose gold toned rimmed index hour markers with luminous fill.
• Fine printed minute track.
• Polished rose gold toned hands, hours & minutes hands with luminous fill.
• Silvered flange at the perimeter of the dial with fine printed seconds & fractions of a second indication for the stopwatch/chronograph.
• Small running seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position.
• Date window displayed at the 3 o'clock position.
• Chronograph/Stopwatch function:
• Large red central seconds counter.
• The sub-dial at the 12 o'clock position doubles as both the chronograph 60 minute counter (longer hand pointing to outer diameter) & the 12 hour counter (short hand pointing to marking on inner diameter), allowing for an easy & instant reading of the stopwatch.
• Features a "Flyback" function, which allows instant restarting of the chronograph with a single push of the button instead of the need to stop, reset & then restart the stop-watch.
• IWC calibre 89361, beats at 28,800 vph, contains 38 jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 68 hours.

Alternate model # iw3905-01, 390501, 3905-01

Mens iwc iw390501 portugieser yacht club chronograph 43.5mm watch.

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IWC iw390501 Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5mm

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Yacht rock: the new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide boasts the brand’s first silicon hairspring

This year has been all about the Portugieser for IWC. At Watches & Wonders Geneva, the Schaffhausen brand unveiled a variety of new colourful dials and interesting designs for the collection – the highlight being the epoch-defining Portugieser Eternal Calendar . At Watches & Wonders Shanghai, the love continues, with IWC bringing the Portugieser back to its roots while also introducing its first movement with a silicon hairspring. For those that don’t know, the design of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939 was inspired by deck observation watches – harking back to the glamour of seafaring and the Age of Exploration . The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide IW344002, however, is all about the glamour of recreational yachting, offering an innovative take on a tide indicator.

The original ref. 325 was IWC’s first oversized watch intended for civilians, measuring up at an enormous-for-the-time 41.5mm. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is big by modern standards, too, measuring 44.6mm in diameter and 13.4mm thick. That’s bigger than most pilot’s watches IWC offers – but in this instance, bigger is better, as it allows extra real estate for its namesake complications. More on those in a second. In any case, IWC’s modern Portugieser Yacht Club collection has been home to larger, brassier takes on the Portugieser ever since its introduction in 2010, and the Yacht Club Moon & Tide follows in that tradition.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide was first introduced in 2020 with the red gold ref. IW344001 . This model in stainless steel brings the heft factor down somewhat, while also featuring a better water-resistance rating (100 metres versus the ref. IW344001’s 60 metres). Otherwise, the new stainless steel ref. IW344002’s case features an identical design to its red gold sibling, flaunting a beautifully polished bezel, stout lugs and a crown guard that almost looks like two pushers.

Fans of 2024 Portugieser novelties like the Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night and its mesmerising obsidian black dial will be pleased to hear that the new Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide also sports this stygian tone. In fact, it’s one of only two regular-production Portugiesers to feature this combination of an obsidian black dial and a stainless steel case, the other being the Portugieser Chronograph.

At the 12 o’clock position, one can find a “Double Moon” moonphase indicator, which displays the moon phase as seen from the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, and is accurate for 125 years – not bad. Additionally, it also shows spring and neap tides. A spring tide (which has nothing to do with the season) is the greatest difference between how high the water is at high tide and how low it is at low tide. By the way, if you’ve ever heard the term king tide, that’s just an especially high spring tide. These typically happen at full moon and new moon. A neap tide is the smallest difference in tidal range. Make sense?

Speaking of tides, at the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find the tide indicator, which helps the wearer track the slightly shifting times for high and low tides. High tides occur roughly every 12 hours and 24 minutes – however, the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide compensates for this thanks to a reduction gear with three wheels, converting the hourly rhythm of normal time-telling into the slower rotation of the tidal disc by rotating the tide disc by 24 minutes between high tides.

In typical IWC fashion, both the tide indicator and Double Moon display are minimalist but highly legible, with subtle pops of contrast provided by lettering in red and blue breaking up the dial’s otherwise monochromatic look. The seconds hand is also tipped in red, while a colour-matched date window can be found at 3 o’clock. It’s classically elegant Portugieser fare.

The movement

The clever display of this Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide IW344002 is all thanks to the new calibre 82836, which is identical to the 2020 model’s calibre 82835 save for one key change: the introduction of a silicon hairspring. To tell the truth, I was surprised to hear that this movement is IWC’s first with a silicon hairspring, considering how prolific the tech is even among brands and movements far less developed than IWC. Of course, the advantages of silicon hairsprings are manifold: silicon is inherently anti-magnetic, thermally stable, doesn’t deform like a traditional hairspring, and doesn’t require lubrication, among other properties.

Some traditionalists say the use of silicon removes some of the artistry from watchmaking – and silicon hairsprings can also be more fragile than traditional steel hairsprings – but I won’t wade into that debate. IWC reckons it’s worth it, otherwise they wouldn’t have updated this movement. Silicon hairspring aside, the calibre 82836 also features IWC’s Pellaton automatic winding system (which utilises ceramic parts – are they sacrilege too?), with a confidence-inspiring 60-hour power reserve.

The bracelet

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide IW344002 comes mounted on a three-link steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. While we’ve seen bracelets of this design offered before on Portugieser models, it’s the first time a bracelet has been offered on this complication, as the ref. IW344001 came on a rubber strap.

The verdict

Most people who are actually part of yacht clubs probably don’t sail their own boats, but there’s something highly appropriate about having complications like a tide indicator and moonphase on a Portugieser Yacht Club. Being stainless steel, it makes it more suitable for ocean-going than its previous red gold incarnation (not that you’d really call this a tool watch). The addition of a silicon hairspring is a nice touch – it’s only something that real enthusiasts will get excited about, but it’s nice – but the big selling point for this watch in my opinion is that its movement compensates for the discrepancy between the tide cycle and the normal 24-hour cycle. This makes it a more user-friendly experience than other tide-tracking watches like the Baume & Mercier Riviera Tideograph .

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide IW344002 pricing & availability

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide IW344002 is available now for purchase. Price: US$22,500, A$35,000, £20,500

The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring

For the first time, iwc schaffhausen relies on innovative silicon material in one of its manufacture movements..

This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic . On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide . Now available in steel with an obsidian black dial, this sportier model debuts an updated movement featuring a silicon hairspring for the first time at IWC.

Originally presented in 2020, the gold Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide introduced a complication that could not be more appropriate for the nautical-themed “Yacht Club” sub-collection. The original, specific functionality of the model relies on two sub-counters linked to moon phases and tide calculations.  

The sub-dial at 6 o’clock displays the expected times for the next high and low tides. The interval between two high tides is consistently 12 hours and 24 minutes. After an initial calibration (via the crown) using tide tables for a specific location, the indicator remains highly accurate, with a deviation of only 10 minutes over 100 years.

The double moon phase display at 12 o’clock, featuring IWC’s signature double moon for both hemispheres, has been enhanced to indicate spring and neap tides. This provides valuable information about the tide’s strength. Spring tides, which bring particularly high water levels, occur during the full moon and new moon phases.

This new iteration of the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide introduces a more modern, sportier aesthetic to the model. Now crafted in steel, the case is still 44.6mm in diameter but is now water-resistant to 100m. The Obsidian Black dial is subtly enhanced with red and blue accents, adding a dynamic touch to the overall design.

One of the key upgrades is related to the movement powering these two complications. The new calibre 82836, an evolution of the 82835, marks IWC’s first use of a silicon hairspring. Operating at 4Hz, the balance is visible through the exhibition caseback. The automatic winding mechanism employs a Pellaton system, enhanced with virtually wear-free ceramic components, and builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.

Although the brand hasn’t provided further details, this first model to feature a  silicon hairspring is likely not the last. While opinions on modern silicon hairsprings vary, this material offers undeniable technical advantages. This synthetic material is thermally stable, non-magnetic, lightweight, durable, and ideal for crafting hairsprings that outperform those made from traditional metal alloys. Silicon hairsprings have been around for about 20 years, initially restricted to a few brands by a patent held by CSEM as part of a collaboration between the Swatch Group, Patek Philippe, and Rolex (plus Ulysse Nardin). With the patent now expired, and despite new patents being filed, it was expected that more brands would start using silicon hairsprings. For more details, check out our article here .

The steel IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide (reference IW344002) is presented on a stainless steel bracelet with brushed H-links and polished centre links. A pair of pushers release its folding buckle and features a fine-adjustment system. The price is set at CHF 22,000 .

For more information, please visit www.iwc.com .

Technical specifications – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Stainless Steel

2 responses.

Good luck with an almost 45mm watch in this day and age. 41-42mm would be much nicer in my very personal opinion and much closer to the sweet spot of 40-42mm for a sports or sporty watch. 13.4mm height is very good for the complications this watch offers!

Size and price aside, this watch looks GOOD.

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• Certified Pre-Owned
• Pre-Owned IWC Schaffhausen
• Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Rose Gold Automatic

• Mint - Mint condition
• Excellent - Like new – may have slight surface scratches
• Very Good - May have any of the following: light scratches; slightly stretched bracelet; patina on dial, hands, or bezel
• Gender Men's
• Case Size 44 mm diameter
• Movement Automatic
• Features Date, Fly back Chronograph, Second Hand
• Strap/Bracelet Material Rubber
• Item Number VIW02559
• Manufacturer Reference # IW390505
• Case Shape: Round
• Case Thickness 14 mm
• Crystal Sapphire
• Dial Color Silver Gray
• Dial Markers Arabic
• Water Resistance 60 meters
• Strap/Bracelet Strap - Tang

Pre-Owned IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Rose Gold Automatic

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Past Collections, 2018

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Stainless steel case, Automatic winding, Diameter 43.5 mm.

Made in Switzerland

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IW390507 Specifications

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 43.5 mm
• Height 14.1 mm
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 6.0 bar
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic winding
• 68 hours power reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 VPH (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève
• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap
• Strap width 22.0 mm

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Calibre Family 89000

The 89000-calibre family includes powerful chronograph movements with flyback function, which are used, for example, for the big digital date and month displays.

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Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

IWC launched the Portugieser Yacht Club in 2010 into the sporty yet elegant world of sailing. For 2020, the nautical chronograph model has a classic look and a steel bracelet upgrade. We give it a thorough review in this feature from the WatchTime archives.

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection.

For the first time in its 10-plus-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed.

Inside the safety folding clasp, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm. Pressing the polished “IWC” button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp.

Detailed Modifications In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-gray instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff.

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm. Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions.

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps between the links, which can catch and pull hair.

Proven Technology Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Caliber 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonized oscillating rotor. Another feature of the in-house movement is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read.

Accurate Rate Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use.

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 meters. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 meters to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for diving.

Advice for boat owners is simply this: it’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8201 Schaffhausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW390701 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with combined 60-minute and 12-hour counter, date Movement: In-house Caliber 89361, automatic, 28,800 vph, 38 jewels, hack mechanism, quick date adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, column wheel, fine regulator with screw weights, Glucydur balance, 68-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.5 mm Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window, water resistant to 60 m Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, with chronograph switched off/on): Dial up 0 / +1 Dial down +3 / +2 Crown up -1 / -2 Crown down +2 / +2 Crown left +2 / +3 Crown right -1 / -3 Greatest deviation 4 / 6 Average deviation +0.8 / +0.5 Average amplitude: Flat positions 287° / 273° Hanging positions 257° / 236° Dimensions: Diameter = 44.6 mm, height = 14.3 mm, weight = 170 grams Variations: With silver dial (Ref. IW390702, $13,100); with stainless-steel and rose-gold case and bracelet (Ref. IW390703, $19,900) Price: $13,100

SCORES: Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Very attractive, highly functional stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension. Large gaps between links. 9 ­­­ Operation (5): Generously sized, smoothly operating pushers are easier to use than the screw-down crown. The large crown is easy to turn but needs some force to pull out. The chronograph has a flyback function for direct restart of an ongoing timing sequence. 4 Case (10): The case is beautifully finished but is rather simple and water resistant to only 60 meters. 8 Design (15): Attractive combination of sportiness and elegance. The superior quality of every component is easily apparent. 14 Legibility (5): The time and date are both easy to read, but elapsed time presents more difficulty. Bright luminous material. 4 Wearing comfort (10): The heavy watch lies comfortably on the wrist, but the metal bracelet catches fine wrist hair. 7 Movement (20): The in-house caliber stands out with its column wheel, Glucydur balance, fine regulation, extended power reserve, efficient dual-pawl winding mechanism and attractive decorations. 17 Rate results (10): The watch can boast absolute reliability with an average daily gain of 0.8 seconds and a maximum deviation between the positions of 4 seconds. Individual values are similar even when the chronograph is engaged. 9 Overall value (15): IWC has created a luxury chronograph at a high price, but it has a lot to offer. 11 Total: 83 POINTS

Thank you for the review

I, along with many people like a larger diameter watch. I have a wrist size that is 8 inches. Anything smaller than 42-43 mm looks small to me. I think this watch is a beauty.

Beautiful execution of details. Good to see that IWC decided to upgrade the Portugieser from quasigirly watch to man-sized. It’s hardly an Arni watch though.

I would buy this watch in a second (no pun intended) except for the high price. As for the increased diameter, I have a large wrist and do not buy watches less than 43 mm. Smaller diameters look terrible on me. If you need a large diameter watch reviewer, let me know. Thanks.

Two big problems for me. The size (too big), very few people have wrist size like Arni, water tightness 60m is a joke.

I really like this IWC watch, however, it’s shallow water resistance at the price, is a non-starter. IWC is certainly capable of increasing the water resistance range.

I always enjoy my Watchtime magazine when it arrives, and the email updates. Regarding IWC’s new Yacht Club, I think it is a beautiful watch. I have a large wrist, so, I will not wear a watch under 43mm. Smaller watches look too small. I do have trouble with the 60 meter water resistance, but find myself looking at this watch over and over in your magazine. That is when I know I want it. Hope to order one in the near future.

I’m veary interested in watches and would love to know more about them. I would like to see , the new modells.

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Portugieser

• IW3905-07 : Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5 Stainless Steel / Blue / Summer Edition

IWC - IW3905-07 Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5 Stainless Steel / Blue / Summer Edition

Price in euro

Iwc iw3905-07 description.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was introduced in 2015. It features a case that is slightly smaller than the previous Yacht Club models, from 45.4 to 43.5 millimeters. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with 68 hour power reserve. It features a small seconds display at 6 o'clock. Reference IW3905-07 was added to the collection in 2018 as part of a new 'Summer Editions' collection. It features a blue dial with silver subdials and a blue rubber strap.

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Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph – The perfect summers’ watch?

Ah, it summer-time! The sun is shining, birds are singing and you need a summer wrist-companion. Comfort, sportiness and perhaps something trendy? If one were to screen through the IWC collection, chances are they’d pick the Ingenuier or the versatile Pilot. But would you consider a Portugieser. Here, we bring you a in-depth look at one such example: the 2018 IWC Yacht Club Chronograph. It checks all those “summer-ready” boxes (if there is one), on paper at least . But, how does it stack up?

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

OK, so it is summer all year long in Singapore…all the more the enjoy. IWC announced the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph in July 12, 2018. Here is our hands-on review.

The Case, Dial and Hands

Despite several key differences in stylistic design cues, the Yacht Club Chronograph is still instantly instantly recognisable as being part of the Portugieser collection.

The 43.5mm stainless steel case shares several design traits with the classic Portugieser chronograph. Despite its increased size, the watch still wore comfortably on the author’s wrist.

The watch features a round stainless steel case which measures 43.5mm in diameter. Granted, a rather generous proportion, but one that is not new to the brand. It shares several design traits with the classic chronograph: the case shape, pushers and crown looks identical. However, where the Portugieser family is best suited for dressing up, the Yacht-Club is all for enjoying the water; oceans, boating (and desk diving!). Its appearance is rather sporty, with a maxi-sized case, thick bezel and crown guards. Despite its size, the watch wore really well: it sat comfortably on the author’s (smaller than average) 5.5″ wrist with good all-round weight distribution. Furthermore, the 14.2mm case thickness ensured a pleasant wrist presence without being overbearing.

A healthy blend of polished and brushed surfaces ensures a sporty-elegance flair: flashy without being brash. Also seen here is its case thickness of 14.2mm: a comfortable size while providing sufficient wrist presence.

Finishing is a visual and physical treat: the case has a healthy blend of meticulously polished and brushed surfaces, ensuring a bright and seductive appearance. A sporty-elegance flair perhaps; flashy without being brash. Finally, the corners and sides features smooth, sensual curves with no ‘rough edges’.

The sunburst blue dial is rather handsome, sporting contrasting white sub dials. We enjoyed its overall cleanliness and sleek appearance.

The dial is the highlight of this watch, sporting a striking sunburst blue with contrasting white sub dials. The top and bottom counters records hours/minutes-elapsed and running-seconds respectively. They don a circular pattern and sits slightly recessed into the dial for better depth. Its printing is somewhat busy with two scales, but we had no issues with readability. In fact, the entire dial features a rather unadulterated and sleek appearance: no ‘handy reminders’ of specifications or certifications – a detail that is greatly appreciated. Additionally, we enjoyed the subtle, charming touches such as the distinct red chronograph seconds hand. Overall a well balanced dial with effective use of negative space.

A rather striking dial, but not one without minor complaints. One of them is the truncated number ’11’. Another is the upside-down markings on the sub dials.

To top it off, the sporty mien is accompanied by polished  appliqué  arabic numerals – one that adds an elegant flair to the watch. Extending outwards are 13 hour-markers. And complimenting them is a set of  feuille  (leaf)-shaped minute and hour hands. Both the hour-markers and hands have been filled with SuperLuminova which ensures good legibility in all situations.

There were several minor complaints however. Some may prefer that the top sub dial be made slightly smaller to avoid cutting off the ’11’ numeral (think Portugieser Chronograph Classic). Another is the ‘flipped’ markings on the counters. That said, these minor niggles do not detract much from its overall looks.

Turning the watch over, we find a see-through sapphire case back. The watch comes on an accompanying blue rubber strap with metal keeper. One interesting note about the rubber is the motif underneath which prevents slippage while on the wrist.

The Movement: IWC 89361

Inside the Yacht-Club houses the IWC 89361 calibre – an in-house manufactured chronograph movement. It boasts an impressive 60-hours power reserve and beats at 28,800 bph (4Hz). Furthermore, this self-winding movement features a flyback function and date complication. Finishing is well executed entirely with haute horology decorations such as Côtes  de  Genève  (Geneva Stripes) and perlage (circular graining).

The in-house IWC 89361 calibre is a flyback chronograph boasting a 60-hours power reserve. Finishing appears to be done to a high engineering standard. Nonetheless, an obvious choice for movement.

The chronograph pushers feels pronounced upon activation and winding was smooth with good tactile feedback. This movement can be found across IWC’s portfolio of chronograph watches as well as other iterations of the Yacht-Club, thus its choice appears to be a no-brainer.

Competitive Landscape

The IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” has a recommended retail price of S$17,900. It’s priced appropriately, in-line with other sporty and versatile chronographs . If one is looking for a summers’ timepiece, the choices are endless. Here, we bring you a non-exhaustive list of timepieces which are as competent of transitioning seamlessly from ocean jaunts to cocktail parties.

Summer-ready: the Yacht Club has an appearance that is sporty yet trendy.

We kick things off with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph . When it comes to luxury sports watches, the Royal Oak is the undisputed industry icon. The iconic octagonal case was conceived by none other than Gerald Genta himself. The current iteration is fitted on a rubber straps and are available in a slew of funky colour variations. Its not just all looks without brawn, as the watch is rated to a depth of 300 meters. Highly recognisable (and desirable) on land yet able to perform out at sea – a perfect summer’s timepiece indeed. The ROO Diver Chronograph is priced at S$31,900 .

Rolex Yachtmaster II ( ref. 116680 ) : a watch considered by many Rolex enthusiasts to be the most unapologetic (some call sacrilege) of the brands’ conservative stable. Ostentatious is an understatement as its 44mm case with shiny  ceramic bezel and polished center links is the opposite of subtility. Yet, it remains as a technical masterpiece, housing one of Rolex’s most complicated calibres: a flyback regatta timer with memory. Admittedly not very useful for the ordinary folks, but as a sporty watch, it is rather capable with good legibility and wrist presence. Also makes for an excellent summer statement-timepiece. (Fun fact: It is the largest commercially-available Rolex watch alongside the Deepsea .) The Yachtmaster II has a recommended retail price of S$25,120 .

The Rolex Daytona ( ref. 116500LN )  – perhaps the most ‘”exclusive” watch on this list. It’s sized at 40mm and powered by the calibre 4130 in-house column wheel movement. An excellent choice all year round. The Daytona is priced at S$16,660 .

Another option is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A – the 179-years old maison’s sportiest line. Launched during Basel 2018, it’s the first Aquanaut to sport an in-house chronograph movement. Its case is sized at a contemporary 42.2mm and has a thickness of 11.9mm. The watch is delivered with two abrasion and UV-resistant composite straps: a black which is standard-issue and a rather un-Patek bright orange. Still, its price is  very -Patek at SGD57,700 .

A mid-range piece is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue. It’s a rather cool-looking chronograph, with a refreshing white dial and striking blue-orange accents. Powering it is a Tudor-modified ETA 2892 movement which delivers a 42-hours power reserve. The Heritage Chrono Blue retails for S$5,880 .

For the budget conscious, we propose the Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPC91 “Save The Ocean”. Robust build, in-house movement and a handsome blue waves motif dial. It offers an incredible quality-to-price ratio, if there is one. Can you go ever wrong? The Turtle retails at  €450 .

There’s much to like about the 2018 IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club. The contrasting blue dial and white sub dials is visually clean and appealing. Its design draws heavy inspiration from the classic Portugieser Chronograph and is rather aesthetically pleasing. The chronograph and date complications serves a functional purpose. Finally, the accompanied blue rubber strap is comfortable and completes the “summer package” look.

An area to nitpick would be the finer attention-to-details. In addition, its upsized case might not sit well with some, though as mentioned, it is comfortable on the author’s wrist. Nonetheless, the Yacht-Club is a very handsome piece which (almost) manages to be the perfect summers’ wrist-companion.

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Good review. I like the look of this watch, but my experience with IWC after sales (not only in Singapore) has been quite disappointing.

I don’t think a “summer” watch should be anything less than 10ATM water resistant. It is 2018 and it should easily be able to withstand a dip in a pool, lake or ocean

Could have added a changeable strap to it.. could be a rubber one but a little more contrast / jazzy types…

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

Stainless steel case, Automatic winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue / White dial with luminescence, Blue rubber strap with textile inlay, Strap width 22.0 mm.

Watch Details

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6 mm
• Height 14.3 mm
• Screw in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 10.0 bar

• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic winding
• 68 hours power reserve
• Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève

• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds

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The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" was created in partnership with the British designer label.

As part of its partnership with the British designer fashion label Orlebar Brown, IWC is releasing the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown". The stainless steel case with a diameter of 44 millimetres is completed by a marine-blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and a red chronograph seconds hand. These colours are often used in Orlebar Brown’s product range. The nautical chronograph with elegant case proportions is fitted with a blue rubber strap with textile inlay and custom Orlebar Brown buckle. Thanks to its robust construction and water-resistance of 6 bar, it is ideally suited for use on water or on land. The IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function displays the stopped hours and minutes combined on a subdial at "12 o'clock" and provides a power reserve of 68 hours.

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