sailboat life line parts

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Create a boat lifeline in minutes with lifeline hardware from Sailrite. These easy-to-install hardware pieces are made of high-grade stainless steel to resist harsh marine environments. Pair individual pieces or a complete kit with lifeline netting and start installing your lifeline yourself!

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For over 35 years Seco South has manufactured lifelines for sailboats for nearly all of the leading sailboat manufacturers in the USA including Hunter, Beneteau, Island Packet, Compac, Irwin and Endeavour just to name a few. We manufacture our lifelines using only the highest quality type 316 stainless steel for all of our hardware including, turnbuckles, gate eyes, toggle jaws, and pelican hooks. We manufacture from (2) different types of wire: PVC coated 7×7 and uncoated 1×19.

For the DIY, you can purchase all the hardware individually if you have the proper swaging equipment or order our new self-attach fitting kit. The only tools required are a pair of cutters and a couple of crescent wrenches.

We offer (3) different kits:

LLK-1 Kit comes with a factory installed toggle jaw on one end of a length of cable of your choice and a self-attach toggle jaw turnbuckle you install on the opposite end.

LLK- 2 Kit comes with a factory installed gate eye on one end of a length of cable of your choice and a self-attach toggle jaw turnbuckle you install on the opposite end.

LLK- 3 Kit comes with a factory installed toggle jaw on one end of a length of cable of your choice and a self-attach pelican hook you install on the opposite end.

If you prefer to have us make your lifelines for you, please call our toll free number 888.535.SECO . All you need to do is provide us with the dimensions or you can send in your old ones for duplication.

7x7 Construction PVC-Coated Sailboat Lifeline Cable

Swage Lifeline Toggle Jaw*

Swage Lifeline Interlocking Swivel Gate Eye*

Swage Lifeline Swivel Gate Eye*

Swage Lifeline Turnbuckle

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Quick Attach™ Lifeline Kits

Boat owners are regularly faced with the decision of replacing their lifelines as a result of rust or cracked sheathing. Rather than send your measurements and details to a rigging service to have them made professionally, which can be costly, rig and install a lifeline in minutes using a Suncor Stainless Quick Attach™ Lifeline Kit. Stainless steel mechanical swage fittings offer seamless results using only simple hand tools. The Quick Attach™ turnbuckle with toggle provides a safe and secure alternative to open body fittings and allows for easy tensioning. Wire rope is sold separately and is available in a 1×19 construction or PVC coated 7×7 wire. Wire rope offers a long lifespan and an attractive finish while PVC coated wire is comfortable to grip and eliminates the possibility of items catching or snagging on the lines.

Quick Attach™ Lifeline Kit with Gate – Closed Body

Quick Attach™ Lifeline Kit without Gate – Closed Body

Lifeline Wire Rope

BILT App for Suncor Stainless Lifeline Kits

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Replacing Your Lifelines

Published by rigworks on april 8, 2016.

Question:  What are my options for replacing worn lifelines?

From the Rigger: There are more choices than ever when replacing worn lifelines…

Most lifelines are made of wire, usually uncoated 1×19 grade 316 stainless steel which is well suited for stationary applications such as lifelines. Diameters vary depending on the size of the boat. We generally use 1/8 ” wire for boats under 30’ and 3/16” for boats 30’ and longer, although there are exceptions (J-105s for example prefer 5/32”).  Of course, you can go heavier, but the extra weight can be prohibitive.

Boat owners are moving away from the vinyl covered 3/16” wire that has been the industry standard for years. In fact, the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements no longer allow coated wire on coastal and ocean racing sailboats (there is a list of the 2016 racing SERs associated with lifelines at the end of this article). But if you don’t plan to race, you may still prefer the feel and appearance of coated wire. Vinyl coated wire’s primary advantage is that it is attractive and comfortable to handle. It can, however, discolor and crack over time, is susceptible to heat, and makes it difficult to inspect the wire underneath.

Synthetic lifelines made of low stretch Dyneema are becoming a popular alternative to wire. Dyneema, made of High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE), is stronger and much lighter than steel. It is easy to install, can be spliced, doesn’t rust, and is easy to handle. Although it is more susceptible to chafing, chafe points can be protected with extra layers and/or tape. When converting from wire to Dyneema, be especially conscious of existing burrs on your stanchions, a common cause of chafing.  We recently installed Dyneema lifelines on a 38’ catamaran, and the customer was very happy with the results.

Regardless of whether you choose wire, coated wire, or Dyneema, we recommend that you always purchase high quality 316 grade fittings, including your turnbuckles, pelican hooks, gate eyes, toggle jaws, deck toggles, etc. We recommend Hayn, Johnson or Arco fittings which operate smoothly and withstand high loads.  We also suggest taping or pinning your fittings whenever possible. Sailors end up in the water as a result of fitting failures. Don’t scrimp here!

Your connections can be hand crimped, machine swaged, or spliced (in the case of Dyneema lines). Hand crimping is the least expensive “do-it-yourself” option but not our first choice. Hand crimping often leaves a bulky joint and can be susceptible to pulling free under load. We often see poorly/under-crimped connections which are definitely not safe. A proper swage is the strongest option.  Unlike hand-crimped connections that may simply break free, a tired swage connection will generally reveal hairline cracks prior to failing, giving you time to replace them. As for splicing those Dyneema lines, we do that here at Rigworks!

Finally, stanchions are often the weak link in your lifeline system. Tall and narrow, they are susceptible to bending, especially when used to catch the boat as you dock or to tie off sheets and halyards. Delamination and cracking at the base are also quite common. Use grade 316 stainless steel 1” diameter stanchions to reduce the likelihood of bending. Always check welds on bales and bases for rust which can be a telltale sign of cracking. Be sure that each stanchion is properly braced and bolted into a reinforced area of your deck and/or into a backing plate.

Of course, this is only the tip of the iceberg. Stanchion height and placement, line spacing (both horizontally and vertically), tension, deflection, toerails, etc. all need to be carefully considered. For professional installation or to discuss your own lifelines, email us at [email protected] or call us at 619-223-3788. We always look forward to hearing from you!

If you race, please read on…

Here is a list of the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements that apply to lifelines for both coastal and ocean racing. For full list of 2016 SERs, visit the US Sailing website at http://www.ussailing.org/safety/equipment-and-requirements/

• A boat’s stanchion and pulpit bases shall be within the working deck. Stanchions used with High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) shall have rounded openings to reduce chafe.
• Bow pulpits may be open, but the opening between the vertical portion of stanchion pulpit and any part of the boat shall not exceed 14.2″ (360mm).
• Lifelines may be either uncoated stainless steel wire or HMPE line with spliced terminations or terminals specifically intended for the purpose. A multipart-lashing segment not to exceed 4″ per end termination for the purpose of attaching lifelines to pulpits is allowed. Lifelines shall be taut (see below). When HMPE is used, the load-bearing portion (core) shall meet or exceed minimum diameter requirements.
• When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied to a lifeline midway between supports of an upper or single lifeline, the lifeline shall not deflect more than 2” (50mm). This measurement shall be taken at the widest span between supports that are aft of the mast.
• When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied midway between supports of an intermediate lifeline of all spans that are aft of the mast, deflection shall not exceed 5” (120mm) from a straight line between the stanchions.
• The maximum spacing between lifeline supports (e.g. stanchions and pulpits) shall be 87″ (2.2m).
• Boats under 30′ (9.14m) shall have at least one lifeline with 18″ (457mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 18″ (457mm). Taller heights will require a second lifeline. The minimum diameter shall be 1/8″ (3mm).
• Boats 30′ and over (9.14m) shall have at least two lifelines with 24″ (762mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 15″ (381mm). The minimum diameter will be 5/32″ (4mm) for boats to 43′ (13.1m) and 3/16″ (5mm) for boats over 43′ (13.1m).
• Toe rails shall be fitted around the foredeck from the base of the mast with a minimum height of 3/4″ (18mm) for boats under 30′ (9.14m) and 1″ (25mm) for boats over 30′. An additional installed lifeline that is 1-2″ (25-51mm) above the deck will satisfy this requirement for boats without toerails.
• Trimarans are exempted from the lifeline requirement where there is a trampoline outboard of the main hull, except that a lifeline must run from the top of a bow pulpit to the forward crossbeam at the outboard edge of the bow net or foredeck. Catamarans with trampoline nets between the hulls are exempted from the lifeline requirement. All catamarans are exempted from the need for pulpits and lifelines across the bow.

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Replacement Lifelines – The Cheapest and Best Solutions

We recently replaced our lifelines aboard our Catamaran Adrenaline.  The old ones were conventional vinyl coated stainless steel wire and had rust protruding from the machine swaged terminals as well as a few spots in the cracked vinyl. Replacement for these lifelines was long overdue.

Old Vinyl Coated Lifelines

I wanted to stay away from vinyl coated lifelines because it creates an opportunity for salt water to sit, hidden, and corrode the SS wire underneath. We chose bare 1×19 wire initially and long story short our source for the wire was questionable (amazon) and it started rusting after just a few months. After about a year we replaced our lifelines again, this time with Dux, a type of heat-set dyneema, and dyneema lashings with Colligo terminators to tension the lines.

Bare 1×19 SS Lifelines

In the process of deciding which direction to go, I did a ton of research on our options and the costs associated with each. I will outline all these options below with their costs as well as some advantages and disadvantages of each. For this comparison we used our boat’s lifeline setup as the standard. We measured a 35′ run from bearing point to bearing point for each line and we have no gates which makes our setup very simple. We do however have a third lower lifeline when many other sailboats only have two lifelines.

The three main lifeline materials to choose from are vinyl coated ss wire, bare 1×19 ss wire, and dyneema. We left out the vinyl coated option in our comparison for the reason mentioned above. The standard diameter for lifeline wire seems to be 3/16″ (5mm for dux) so we used that in each setup.

No matter which material you choose for your line, each end must be terminated. With ss wire this is done with either a mechanical fitting, hand-swage fitting, or machine swage fitting. We left out the hand-swage option for our comparison because you need a special hand swage tool and shopping around for the proper studs, matching them with the turnbuckles and opposite studs, and getting the direction of threads correct was taking a ton of time and a pain. To terminate dyneema lifelines you use a locking brummel splice and a colligo terminator or stainless steel high-load thimble .

Each lifeline also needs a tensioning method. With ss wire this is done with a turnbuckle and with dyneema it can be done with lashings, a turnbuckle, or both.

Our comparison starts with a diy setup with all products from  Sailrite This lifeline setup includes 1×19 ss wire with mechanical fittings and turnbuckles from a company called Suncor. Our 35′ run requires just under 35′ of ss wire but sailrite only sells wire in 40′ lengths so we needed a total of x6 40′ lengths which run $50.95 each. We needed x6 mechanical fittings to terminate the wire into a toggle ($41.95 each) and on the other end, another x6 mechanical fittings that terminate the wire into a stud for one side of the turnbuckle which are $44.95 each including the turnbuckle and stud/toggle on the opposite side. The total for this entire setup is $827.10 in materials. The mechanical fittings only require two wrenches to compress the inner wedge kit onto the ss wire and is pretty easy for a diy project. Once you have the suncor fittings, if you ever have to replace your lifelines you can usually re-use the same fittings and just replace the inner wedge kit which are $16.96 each vs. the original $41.95 for the whole fitting/toggle. The advantages to this system are that it is totally diy friendly, and may be a cheaper option for future replacement. You can also carry some spare wire and wedge kites aboard for any replacements in super remote areas while cruising. Disadvantages include being more expensive than other options and possibly not as strong a fitting as other options.

Our next comparison is a similar setup with all products through defender . This lifeline system also includes mechanical fittings only requiring two wrenches to install but this time we looked at sta-lok products which uses a slightly different cone wedge to secure the fitting onto the wire. We would need x6 sta-lok fitting/toggles at $46.99 each, x6 sta-lok fitting/studs at $39.99 each and x6 turnbuckles with stud/toggle on one side at $38.99 each.. From defender you can order 1×19 wire by the foot and we estimated 35′ run each even though we need probably just a bit less. At $1.39/ft. the total for wire is $291.90 and the total for this whole system would be $1047.72. Advantages include: DIY capability, very strong mechanical fitting (many use for standing rigging), and ability to carry spares. Disadvantages include: Expensive, ability for water to sit and corrode in fitting (this can be combated by including some sort of sealant  before the fitting is compressed).

Our third option for replacement lifelines is to get them made up from a professional rigger with a machine swage. We received a quote from Mack Sails in Stuart, FL for the exact length lifelines we needed in bare 1×19 stainless including all the sta-lok brand turnbuckles, fittings, and toggles required. They would do all the labor of measuring/cutting the wire and swaging on the fittings. Their total quote was $663. Advantages: Cheapest option, professional work, reliable source of materials, no DIY necessary. Disadvantages: Must be local or have shipped, no re-use of fittings when replacement is needed (turnbuckles/toggles can be inspected and re-used), might have to wait a few weeks depending on their work load. Here is the website to Mack Sails .

In this video we replaced our lifelines with bare 1×19 wire that I bought on amazon (bad idea) and Mack Sails swaged on fittings for us. (Should have had them do everything).

Our last comparison for replacement lifelines aboard a sailboat is synthetic line. We chose Dyneema Dux for our comparison and on our own boat. Dux is a type of dyneema from Colligo Marine that is pre-heat stretched to take all the stretch out of the line so that constant adjustment is not necessary. The total amount of Dux needed we ordered was about 235′ to allow for take-up and extra length required for the splices. Dux from Colligo costs $2.85/ft. The forward ends of all our lines were locking brummel eye spliced then luggage tagged to an eye-bolt in our crossbeam so no additional hardware was required. The aft ends were eye spliced and terminated with Colligo Lifeline Terminators  which are $33.32/each. These were then lashed to our stern stanchion structure using regular 4mm sk75 dyneema lashing line  which costs $0.90/ft. Our total cost on this setup was $905.67. All you need to do the splicing is a small fid kit  and a short amount of time to learn the locking brummel splice.  Advantages are: DIY very friendly, lightest option for performance boats, spares are light and easy to carry aboard, easily inspectable (line frays well before there is risk of it failing), stronger than 3/16″ SS wire, can re-use terminator fittings, no corrosion to worry about, simple. Disadvantages: Not the cheapest option, may not last as long as wire due to chafe or UV, may need to smooth stanchion holes or add cover/tube.

Here is a video of us installing our Dux lifelines.

A few notes on using synthetic line. It is very tough stuff and relatively UV resistant as far as line goes but any surface it touches needs to be rounded and smooth (stanchions). Or, you can use plastic tubing or chafe sleeve where it passes through stanchions. You could also chafe sleeve the whole line with something like Marlow dyneema chafe sleeve which would also protect the line from UV and would make the line last virtually forever if the cover was never chafed through to the core. Colligo Marine has done some testing and determined that bare Dux is safe to use for at least 5-8 years in the tropics. You can tension synthetic lifelines with turnbuckles but you must measure and splice precisely or you can use lashings and turnbuckles but I have found that lashings were plenty sufficient and I only had to adjust them once after I installed them because I did not pre-stretch the line to take the constructional stretch out of the splices. In addition, you can use high-load SS sailmaker thimbles instead of Colligo terminators to save some money. However, you need to make sure the lashing lines do not “jump” and ride over each other when tensioning and there may be more friction when tensioning because of the lines touching each other vs. Colligo terminators where each line has it’s own hole.

Colligo Lifeline Terminator

Here is a table I prepared with all the information discussed above on different lifeline replacement options. There are probably a ton of other options and brand available. I looked at some Hayn prices on defender which seemed to be right in-line with sta-lok. You could use regular sk-75 or sk-78 dyneema but you really shouldn’t unless you pre-tension it a ton to take all the initial creep out. Lifelines should be tight and constant adjustment could be a pain. I hope this helps if you are thinking of replacing your lifelines. Please shoot us a comment below and feel free to share this article link!

Lifeline Replacement Options

**Prices are as of the published date of this article and are subject to change **

***Some of the links in the article are affiliate links and we may earn a small commission if a purchase is made through them which helps fund this website and our videos***

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Welcome to rigging only.

Our www.riggingandhardware.com shop on line site is now open for business. We now have most manufacture's parts up and running. Pricing is current on the riggingandhardware.com site. Pictures and selection guides are rather lacking at this time but we are working on them and will be loading more product and manufacturers asap. As always, don't hesitate to contact us with any questions or to place an order at [email protected] or call (508) 992-0434.

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• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for sailboat standing rigging and architectural wire projects. Larger sizes are available.
• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for standing rigging and architectural projects. Larger sizes are available.
• Metric wire and swage fittings are available for standing rigging applications. We are able to provide swaged standing rigging assemblies as well as mechanical terminals (assembled or you assemble) to meet your needs at an affordable cost. Current stock is 8-10-12mm. Note the bulk of these fittings will have imperial pin and thread dimensions.

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Medium Boat Kit - Complete Life Line kit - Dyneema SK78 -UP TO 30' Sailboat - LLK001

Product Description

Splice line fittings allow you to easily plice hi tech Dyneema line to standard life line fittings. Great option for cruising sailors that wants to replace their stainless steel life line cables. 

For a significant weight savings, as well as a sleek modern look, Splice Line fittings allow you to easily splice high tech Dyneema line to standard lifeline fittings in place of heavy stainless steel wire. The end terminal of these fittings is a purpose-built, specially formed splicing eye which supports tight synthetic fiber eye splices. • Options on Dyneema Lines 5mm ( 3/16") or 6mm  • Professional splicing is recommended • Splice Line terminal dimensions: 9/16" Dia. x 1-5/8"L • Pin diameter on fittings with pins is 1/4" • Depending on your lifeline configuration, the splice opposite the fitting may need to be done on the vessel

Kit includes:

70' of Dyneema line ( in a choose color ) 2 LS-3600 2 LS-2900

• Tags : DYNEEMA LIFE LINE KIT dyneema life lines Life lines Sailboat Hardware splice life line

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Splice Line - Extra Length Tubular Turnbuckle w/Bullet Splice Eye- LS-92-150

Life line terminal - Extra Length Tubular Turnbuckle w/Bullet Splice Eye

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Everything you'll need for stanchions and lifelines. If you need fittings for your bimini and railing, click here . 

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• Wire Rope 1 x 19 (304)
• Wire Rope 1 x 19 (316)
• Wire Rope 7 x 19 (304)
• Wire Rope 7 x 19 (316)
• Wire Rope 7 x7 (316)
• Wire Rope Lifeline - 7 x 7 PVC (316)
• Anchor Chain (BBB)
• Commercial Chain
• Lifting Chain
• Stainless Safety Chain
• Proof Coil Chain
• High Test Chain
• Long Link Chain
• Twist Link Chain
• Single Jack Chain
• Double Loop Chain
• Cast And Forged Connecting Link
• Square Quick Link
• Long Quick Link
• Delta Quick Link
• Pear Quick Link
• Clevis Grab Hook
• Clevis Slip Hook
• Eye Grab Hook
• Eye Slip Hook
• Swivel Eye Hook
• Threaded Shank Hook
• Master Links
• Hammerlocks
• Blue Water Cleat
• Stainless Folding Cleat
• Stainless Steel E-Z Push-up Cleats
• Studded Cleat
• Herreshoff Cleat
• Trimline Cleat
• Flagpole Cleat
• Flat Top Cleats
• Lifting Eye Cleat
• Mooring Bitt Cleat
• Bow Chocks, (pair)
• Skene Chocks, (pair)
• Straight Chock
• Bimini Fittings, Deck & Rail Hinges
• Bimini Fittings, Top Caps & Slides
• Bimini Top Cap & Swivel Base
• Rail End Caps (Flat)
• Rail Fittings, Rail Ends
• Rail Fittings, 3-Way Corner
• Rail Fittings, 4-Way Tee and Corner
• Rail Fittings, 60 & 90 Degree Tee
• Rail Fittings, 90 T with Eye
• Rail Fittings, Bow Form & Elbow
• Rail Fittings, End & Center
• Rail Fittings, Rectangular Base
• Rail Fittings, Round Base
• Rail Fittings, Take-Apart Slides
• Rail Tubing
• 6 Inch Deck Access Hatch
• Hinges, Door - Equal & Unequal
• Flush Hinges For Both Doors and Tables
• Hinges, H.D. Flush Strap
• Hatch Hinges
• Hinges, Heavy Duty Offset Door
• Hinges, Strap & Butt
• Hinges, T Strap
• Hinges, Take-Apart
• Hose Deck Fills
• Teak Platforms
• White Poly Swim Platforms
• Through Hull Fittings
• Chain & Deck Pipe
• Stainless Steel Rub Rail Ends
• Stainless Steel Rub Strakes
• Stainless Fairlead and Gasket
• Brackets, 90 Degree Angles
• Door Stop & Catch
• Holders, "Holdall" Spring Clamps
• Holders, Boat Hook Holders
• Hooks, Awning & Fender
• Hooks, Cabin/Clothes
• Barrel Bolt
• Brackets, Folding Table
• Hasps, Padlocks and Locking
• Hatch, Flush Deck Latches
• Hatch, Flush Lift Rings
• Winch Handle Holder
• Utility Wall Clip
• Hawse Deck Pipes
• Transom Drain Plugs
• Floor Drain Plate/Vent
• Louvered Vents
• Antenna Mount, Adjustable Rail
• Antenna Mount, Rail/Surface
• Antenna Mount, Ratchet
• Fishing Rod Holder, Flush Mount
• Fishing Rod Holder, Removable
• Fishing Rod Holder, Side Mount
• Four Tube Fishing Rod Holder
• Stainless Steel Rod Holder, Rail Mount
• Flag/Pennant Staff, Bow Rail
• Folding Boat Step
• Lights, Navigation
• Bow/Stern Eye, U-Bolt
• Fender Hook
• Microphone Clip
• Shore Power Cable Holder
• Ski Tow Ring (Transom Mount)
• Pintles & Gudgeons, Dinghy/Keelboat
• Kong Elastic Tethers
• Machine Swage Pelican Hook With Stud
• Swage Domehead
• Swage Marine Eye
• Swage Marine Fork
• Swage Marine Toggle
• Swage Stemball & Cups
• Swage Stud Terminal
• T Terminals & Plates
• Terminal Gate Eye
• Hand Swage Gate Eye (Non-Swivel)
• Hand Swage Joined Gate Eyes (Non-Swivel)
• Hand swage Joined Swivel Gate Eyes
• Hand Swage Lifeline Adjuster
• Hand Swage Pelican Hook
• Hand Swage Short Stud
• Hand Swage Stud
• Hand Swage Swivel Gate Eye
• Hand Swage Toggle
• Hand Swage Toggle Turnbuckle
• Hand Swage Tool
• Mini Hand Swager
• Thimble, Federal Specification 304SS
• Thimble, Federal Specification 316SS
• Thimble, Heavy Duty
• Thimbles, Extra Heavy Duty
• Thimbles, Standard
• Mini Pulley Blocks w/ 1 Sheave
• Schaefer 3 Series Cheek Blocks
• Schaefer 5 Series Cheek Block
• Schaefer 7 Series Cheek Blocks
• Schaefer M-Series Foot - Cheek Block
• Clamp-on Furling Blocks
• Double Blocks
• Double Blocks with Becket
• Exit Blocks
• Fiddle Blocks
• Fiddle Blocks With Becket
• Fiddle Blocks with Cam and Becket
• Lashing Block
• Schaefer 5 Series Single Blocks
• Schaefer 7 Series Single Blocks
• Schaefer M-Series Single Blocks
• Schaefer Series 3 Single Blocks
• Single Blocks with Becket
• Seine (Snatch) Blocks
• Snatch Blocks
• Square Swivel Eye Blocks
• Rope Sheave (Bushing)
• Rope Sheave with Bearings
• Rope Sheave with Bushing
• Wire Rope Sheave with Bearings
• Wire Rope Sheave with Bushing
• Surface Mounted Block with Sheave
• Swivel Blocks w/ 1 Sheave
• Swivel Blocks w/ 2 Sheaves
• Swivel Eye Blocks w/ 1 Sheave
• Swivel Eye Blocks w/ 2 Sheaves
• Wire Rope Clip, 304 Cast
• Wire Rope Clip, 316 Forged
• Wire Rope Clips, Chair Clips
• Bimini/Webbing Clips
• Boom Bails, Heavy Duty - Forged
• Chainplates
• Clevis Pins
• Fixed Snap Shackles
• Aluminum Stop Sleeve
• Aluminum Swage Sleeve
• Cooper Stop sleeve
• Copper Swage Sleeve
• Stainless steel oval sleeve
• Zinc Plated Copper Swage Sleeve
• Suncor Quick Release Pin Style D
• Suncor Quick Release Pin Style M
• Snap Shackles, Cast Jaw Swivel
• Cunningham Hooks
• Downhaul Hooks
• Heavy Duty D Rings
• Rectangular Rings
• Reefing Hooks
• Round Rings
• Tack (Lashing) Hooks
• Triangle Rings
• Stamped Jaw Swivel Snap Shackles
• Swivel Snap Shackles
• Federal Spec. Jaw and Eye Swivel (AN100)
• Swivels, Eye & Eye
• Swivels, Eye & Jaw
• Swivels, Heavy Duty Eye & Eye
• Swivels, Heavy Duty Eye & Jaw
• Swivels, Heavy Duty Jaw & Jaw
• Swivels, Jaw & Jaw
• Threaded Pelican Hook
• Toggle Pins
• 316 Stainless Steel Rigging Toggle
• 316 Stainless Steel Rigging Toggle Traditional
• Triangular Plates
• Additional Buckles (Non-Ratcheting)
• Nylon Webbing
• Over-Center Buckle Assembly With Clips
• Stainless Ratchet Assmeblies With Flat Hooks And 1" Blue Webbing
• With 1" Webbing
• With 1.5" Blue Webbing
• With 1.5" Webbing
• With 2" Blue Webbing
• With 2" Webbing
• With 1" Blue Webbing
• With 2' Blue Webbing
• With 1" Webbing and S Hooks
• With 1-1/2" Webbing
• Ratchet Buckles
• With 1-1/2" Blue Webbing
• Webbing Assemblies
• Delta Link For Webbing
• Double J Hooks
• Web 'Star' Adjuster
• Web Adjuster Slide
• Web Shackle
• Web Threading Plate
• Welded 'S' Hook
• Webbing Kits and Hangers
• Hand Crimp Lifeline Parts
• Lifeline Wire Rope With PVC
• Suncor Quick Attach Lifeline Kits
• Lifeline Wire Rope, Uncoated
• Stanchions & Brace
• Stanchion Base (Suncor - Cast)
• Pelican Hook
• Stanchion Base (Schaefer - Welded)
• Stanchion Caps
• Stanchion Slide with Eye
• Stanchion Ring
• Stanchion & Furling Blocks
• Forged Eyebolts With No Shoulder
• Forged Eyebolts With Shoulder
• 304 Stainless Steel Unwelded Eyebolts
• 316 Stainless Steel Unwelded Eyebolts
• Metric Stainless Welded Eyebolts
• Standard Stainless Welded Eye Bolt
• Cast Lifting Eye Nut
• Forged Lifting Eye Nut
• Machine Eye Bolt
• Lag Eye Screw
• Lag Ring Bolt
• M6 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M8 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M10 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M12 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M16 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M18 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M20 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M24 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• Eyebolts with Rings
• Special Eyebolts
• Asymmetrical Harness Clip
• Harness Clips with Extras
• Heavy Duty Swivel Eye Hook
• Key Lock Spring Clip
• Mooring Hook Kit
• Rounded Harness Clip
• Screw Lock Harness Clip
• Single & Double Swivel Eye Bolt Snaps
• Spring Clip & Eye (Snap Hook)
• Spring Clip & Eye Key Lock
• Spring Clip (Snap Hook)
• Spring Clip w/ Key Lock
• Spring Clip w/ Screw Lock
• Spring Clip w/ Special Gate
• Spring Gate Snap
• Stainless Key Ring
• Trigger Snap
• Unthreaded Shank Hook
• Wide Asymmetrical Clip
• Fixed Eye Snap
• Spring Clip (Wire Lever)
• Swivel Eye Snap
• Asymmetrical Spring Clip
• Double Action Safety Hook, Wichard
• Shock Cord Hooks and Hog Rings
• Anchor Base With Stud
• Heavy Duty Folding Pad Eye
• Hinged/Folding Cast Pad Eye
• Bolt-On Lashing Ring
• Weld On Lashing Ring, Bent
• Stainless Steel Anchor Base With Shackle
• Stainless Swivel Pad Eye
• Stainless Tow Pad Eye
• Stamped Diamond Pad Eye
• Swivel Pad Eye With Ring
• Weld-on Lashing Ring
• Oblong Pad Eyes & Backing Plates
• Pad Eyes, Tie-Down & Footmans Loops
• Heavy Duty/Oblong Pad-eyes
• Stamped Pad Eyes
• Standard Pad Eyes
• Eye Strap Pad Eyes, 2 Hole/4 Hole
• Folding Heavy-Duty Pad Eyes, Forged
• Round Pad Eyes
• Heavy Duty Square Pad Eyes
• Heavy Duty Diamond Pad Eyes
• Large Mast Pad Eyes
• Pad Eyes, Anchor/ Anchor With Swivel
• Pad Eyes, Lifting Ring
• Pad Eyes, Removable Eye Deck Plate
• Side Ring Pad Eyes
• Standard U-Bolt
• U-Bolt w/ Plate (Standard Thread)
• U-Bolt, Bow/Stern Eye
• Long U-Bolt
• Square U-Bolt
• Anchor Points
• Roller Pins
• Stainless Roller Brackets
• Stainless Steel Trailer Tongue
• Stainless Steel Trailer Winch
• Trailer Couplers
• Trailer Hitch Balls
• Trailer Safety Chain
• Trailer U-Bolt
• 12 Volt LED Microstar Lights
• 24 Volt LED Microstar Lights
• LED Tri Star Back Mount
• LED Tri-Star Microstar Light
• LED Tristar Light With Stalk
• Microstar Transformers
• Cutting Tools (Wire Rope & Bolt/Chain)
• Johnson Crimping Tools
• Passivating Fluid
• Stainless Steel Shackler & Bottle Opener
• Steritool Stainless Screwdrivers
• Swage It Swaging Tool
• Stainless Adjustable Wrenches
• Stainless Steel Locking Pliers
• Stainless Steel Spanner Wrenchs
• Hand Riverting Tools
• Steritool Stainless Steel Open End Wrenches
• Anchor Roller, Replacement Wheels
• Anchor Swivel
• Anchor Swivel Multi-Directional
• Anchor Swivel Replacement Pins
• Folding Grapnel Anchors in Various Colors
• Anchor Bracket, Stanchion-Mount
• Anchor Chain Snubber
• Anchor Chocks
• Anchor Tensioner, AT3 Anchor-Tite
• Chain Stopper
• USCG Chain Stopper
• Galvanized Folding Grapnel Anchors
• Horizon Claw Stainless Steel Anchors

Bestsellers

• Stainless Steel Pelican Hook 4
• Quick Attach Lifeline Kit w/ Gate - Closed Body

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