sailboat standing rigging replacement cost

Replacing Your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on november 27, 2018.

Question – When should I replace my standing rigging?

From the Rigger – According to industry standards, the anticipated lifespan for stainless steel rigging is 10-12 years for wire and 15-20 years for rod. Of course, a number of factors affect a rig’s lifespan including load, sailing conditions, mileage sailed, age, fatigue from cyclic loading, environmental influences such as salinity and contamination, and frequency of care and maintenance. Many people believe that only heavily used rigging needs to be replaced, but the continuous flexing of loose wire that is not under load can take a serious toll as well. The flogging of a loose shroud can actually be harder on wire than steady pressure.

Unfortunately, there are not always visual clues that your rigging has passed its life expectancy. Things to look for include corrosion, pitting, cracks, and broken strands or “meat hooks” on the wire. Rust and discoloration can indicate the location of a crack or crystallization of the metal. Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion.

The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded mast bases, hardware that is stripped on the mast, frozen pins, chainplates that are failing, etc.). A rig inspection beforehand can minimize surprises.  And word of warning… jobs often get expensive because the customer decides, once the mast is down, to add furlers, masthead units, new sheets and halyards, etc. These additions add up quickly and affect the cost of parts, labor, special order shipping, taxes, etc. We are happy to accommodate your requests, but the cost of your job will escalate quickly.

Although we work closely with the boatyard during the job, you will need to negotiate yard fees (crane, mast lay days, etc.) directly with the yard of your choice. They are not included in our estimate. Driscoll Boat Works and Shelter Island Boat Yard are both within walking distance of Rigworks. Assuming it fits in our racks and we have room, we may be able to avoid mast lay day charges by storing your mast here at Rigworks.

As a quick side note… people often ask if they should switch from rod to wire rigging or vice versa during the re-rig (usually from rod to wire as rod is much more expensive per foot). Be aware that this is not a simple conversion and can be quite expensive. The terminations for wire vs. rod can be quite different and require a lot of customization.

Want to prolong the lifespan of your rigging? Here are a few suggestions…

Maintain your standing rigging! Like your car, your sailboat needs TLC. Perform routine cleaning/polishing to remove corrosives, identify chafe points and other damage, and properly tune your standing rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay). Stainless does not like to be deprived of oxygen, so keep tape off your rigging to avoid anaerobic corrosion. For more information on rig maintenance, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/maintaining-your-standing-rigging/ and download our rig-care pamphlet at https://rigworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Standing-Rigging-Care.pdf .

Get regular rig inspections! This is a very inexpensive investment (by yachting standards ) to ensure that your rig is in sound condition. Why not schedule annual service as you would with a car? Let us go over your rig from top to bottom and end to end to identify trouble before it gets worse. For more information on rig inspections, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/the-scoop-on-rig-inspections/ . Our riggers can also tune your rig, either at the dock or under sail. Not only will your rig last longer when properly tuned, your boat will sail better, and who doesn’t love that!

Consider pulling your rig every 5-6 years to inspect the mast base, chainplates, turnbuckles, wire, etc. This is considerably less expensive than a full re-rig and, again, may identify issues before they become catastrophic.

And PLEASE do not buy a used boat without a professional rig inspection! We have had many customers who have found a ‘great deal’ on a used boat only to discover that they need to spend a small fortune on new rigging. A boat with bad rigging is at best a pain in the #@$ and at worst a lethal weapon. There is nothing more expensive than a “cheap” boat!

A customer came into our shop the other day to discuss his 33-year old rigging. He said it looked fine. He asked “Isn’t the industry standard just a ploy by manufacturers to sell more wire”. Since we also stand to gain when you replace your rigging, let us say that many insurance companies will not insure sailboats with aged rigging. This should be a warning. If they are not willing to take the financial risk, are you willing to risk yourself and your crew?

Finally, should you decide to sail with that old rigging, consider checking out the ‘Ask the Rigger’ article titled “Rigs Fail… Are You Ready?” at https://rigworks.com/rigs-fail-ready/ .

Safe Sailing!

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How Much Does It Cost to Replace Standing Sailing Rigging?

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When it comes to standing sailing rigging replacement cost, there is no one-size-fits-all answer.

The cost of replacing your standing rigging will depend on a variety of factors, including the size and type of boat, the age and condition of the rigging, and the materials used in the replacement process.

In this blog post, we will provide an overview of the factors that affect standing rigging replacement costs, as well as some ballpark estimates for what you can expect to pay.

Cost Factors

One of the most important factors in standing rigging replacement cost is the size of your boat. Larger boats will require more material and labor to replace their standing rigging, and as such, will typically have higher costs.

Additionally, the age and condition of your standing rigging will also affect the cost of replacement. If your standing rigging is old or in poor condition, it may need to be replaced with a higher-quality product, which will also drive up costs.

Finally, the materials used in standing rigging replacement can also affect costs. Most standing rigging is made from stainless steel wire or rod, but some manufacturers offer alternatives made from other materials like carbon fiber or Kevlar.

These alternative materials can sometimes offer advantages in terms of weight or performance, but they also come with a higher price tag.

Ballpark Estimates

With all of these factors in mind, what can you expect to pay for standing rigging replacement?

For a small boat (under 30 feet), you can expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 for standing rigging replacement. For a medium-sized boat (30-50 feet), the cost will be somewhere between $2000 and $4000.

And for a large boat (over 50 feet), you should budget for at least $4000, and potentially much more depending on the size and condition of the vessel.

Of course, these are just ballpark estimates, and your actual costs may vary.

Can You Do It Yourself?

For many boat owners, standing rigging replacement is a job that is best left to the professionals. The process can be complex and dangerous, and it is important to make sure that the job is done correctly in order to avoid serious safety risks.

However, if you are experienced with working on boats and are confident in your ability to handle the project, you may be able to save some money by doing the work yourself.

If you do decide to tackle standing rigging replacement on your own, be sure to do plenty of research ahead of time and have a clear plan for how you will complete the project. You should also factor in the cost of any tools or materials that you will need to purchase in order to complete the job.

Hi, my name’s David. I started this pricing blog as a side project to help people figure out the best prices on common services. Whether you’re trying to figure out how much it costs to get scanning done at Staples or the expense to bleach short hair, more than likely I’ve blogged about it. Shoot me an email if you have any questions: [email protected].

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Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging

• By Wendy Mitman Clarke
• Updated: March 23, 2020

Whether you’re buying a used sailboat that’s new to you or you’ve owned your boat for decades, the standing rigging is what keeps the mast in place, and thus requires particular attention. How do you know when it’s time to re-rig? There are some obvious answers to this one — for instance, if your wire rigging has broken strands or if it’s suffering from “candy-striping,” i.e., rust-colored streaks swirling down the wire. The latter may indicate two things: one, that it’s simply surface rust, which you should be able to polish off, or two, that as the wire was being manufactured, a strand might have picked up some contamination during the process and is compromised, which is cause for concern. A third visual indicator are cracks in swaged fittings, some of the most common end fittings for wire. Cracks are hard to see (use a magnifying glass), and sometimes marks that look like cracks can be left by the machine used to create the swage. Then there’s just age, and this factor as a reason to re-rig is more subject to a boat’s history than anything else.

“There’s a rule of thumb, but it varies rigger to rigger,” says Steve Madden, co-owner of M Yacht Services in Annapolis and the head of its M Rigging division. “My belief is that you should be replacing your sailboat’s standing rigging every 10 to 15 years.” But this time frame also is variable, depending on the boat’s purpose and use. For instance, for an offshore bluewater boat, Madden recommends 10 years, and for a serious coastal cruiser, more like 12.

“The biggest thing we like to have is the history of the boat: what kind of boat it is, how it’s been sailed and where has it been sailed,” says Jay Herman, owner of Annapolis Rigging. “That history will affect what kind of life you get out of your standing rigging.” Some insurance companies, he says, will require a re-rig if you’re purchasing a used boat that has standing rigging older than 15 years.

Either way, Jimmie Cockerill, co-owner of the Rigging Company in Annapolis, recommends that for a sailboat with wire rigging, the mast should be pulled and all fittings and wire visually inspected every five to six years. And although rod rigging may be able to last longer than wire, it too needs to be serviced every five to six years to get the most life out of it. Sticking to the 10-year rule, Madden says, means that for the most part, any corrosion or failure points will be eliminated with a re-rig.

How the rigging has been tuned is also part of a boat’s story. For instance, Madden says, he recently had a customer whose 46-foot cutter had a rigging failure at six years. The customer had had the boat re-rigged, and during a trip to the BVI, the new wire stretched. The owner didn’t adjust the rigging to compensate for the stretch for several seasons. “That was a case of not knowing that the worst thing you can do to standing rigging is have it loose on the leeward side,” he says. “Sailboat rigging very rarely fails from being overloaded. There’s such a safety margin in rigging. So you’re sailing offshore and you’re looking at the windward shroud that’s taut, and that’s not the one to worry about. It’s when the leeward side starts flopping around that you’re asking for trouble.”

Stainless steel has a finite number of cycles — essentially, movements, whether fore and aft or side to side. “The theory is that it can take 10 to 15 years of cycling, but this continual motion when it’s unloaded is what fatigues the wire,” Madden says. “There’s no real way of measuring that. Die testing won’t pick it up, and it’s rare that a wire will give you warning before breaking.”

So how often should standing rigging be replaced? For all of these reasons, most riggers agree that when your sailboat’s standing rigging approaches 15 years old, it’s a good time to consider replacing it.

Wire or Rod Sailboat Rigging?

Riggers say the question of whether to rig with wire or rod is usually fairly easily answered: Run what you brung. In other words, if your boat already has rod rigging, with all of the end fittings to terminate the rods both on deck and in or on the mast, then sticking with rod will ultimately be less expensive than making the switch to wire. Likewise, if you already have wire with fittings that accommodate your boat and mast, stick with wire. Aside from the relative cost differences between rod and wire (rod is more expensive), what also makes a switch pricey is having to significantly modify the mast to accept the different rigging.

Although rod rigging is more common on racing boats, many well-known cruising-boat builders, such as Valiant, Bristol, J/Boats and Hinckley, have rod-rigged models. The benefits of rod are less stretch, less weight, less windage, and arguably longer life than wire, because there’s less possibility for corrosion of the rod itself.

That said, some sailors prefer wire over rod for a number of reasons. First, it’s easier to fix in remote places and on your own. With a spare mechanical end fitting, wire and the proper tools, you can replace a stay pretty much anywhere. Similarly, it’s easier to find usable replacement parts far from busy ports. Wire rigging is generally less expensive and easier to handle. Finally, rod rigging requires a particular type of terminus — called a cold head — that can be fabricated only with a purpose-built machine, which only a rigging shop will have. You cannot use a mechanical fitting on rod rigging.

In the past, long-distance cruisers typically chose wire rigging with mechanical fittings for all of these reasons. They also would carry a piece of wire as long as the longest stay on the boat — coiled and stowed, which undeniably was sometimes easier said than done — as well as spare end fittings and the tools needed to replace a broken shroud or stay. Today, with the advent of super-strong synthetic line such as AmSteel and Dyneema, the need for that extra wire and gear is eliminated. For instance, the Rigging Company makes a spare-stay kit that can accommodate either wire or rod rigging repairs, Cockerill says. It has a synthetic stay with an eye splice, a toolless turnbuckle (the Handy Lock, made by C. Sherman Johnson), quick-release fast pins with an attached lanyard, several high-strength Dyneema loops, and even a heavy-duty zip tie to fish loops in and out of holes in a mast.

“The idea is you come on deck with this small canvas bag and make it happen,” Cockerill says. “Let’s say you ripped a tang out of the mast; you can use a Dyneema loop to create another attachment point. A smaller loop is a makeshift chainplate attachment — you can attach it to a neighboring chainplate and attach the stay to it. It’s good enough to get you to safety and someplace you can make a more permanent repair.” Riggers say very few sailors re-rig from wire to rod or the reverse, but if switching is on your mind, have a professional make a full assessment first.

There are so many variables in the system — types of end fittings, types of masts, types of attachment points — that each boat will have its own specific requirements that can affect cost. For that reason, it’s difficult to give an accurate estimate of the cost of making the switch, even for an average 40-footer.

End Fittings for Sailboat Rigging

All standing rigging, whether rod or wire, has to end in a fitting that attaches to the deck and mast. The three most commonly used types of attachments are swaged and mechanical fittings for wire, and cold heads for rod. Generally, end fittings fall into a few classes: studs, eyes, forks and hooks, each of which comes in a dizzying array of sizes and configurations. There are multiple combinations and variations: For instance, if your mast has double tangs, most likely the end fitting will be an eye — although it can be a marine eye or an aircraft eye, which differ primarily in shape. All rod rigging terminates in a cold head, which accommodates the end fitting or is encapsulated by the end fitting. This could be a marine eye, a marine fork, a T-head or a J-hook, among others.

A swaged fitting is a terminus that’s attached using a machine called a swager. It rolls the end fitting through two opposing dies and compresses the fitting on the wire so tightly that it can’t pull out. “The theory is that you’ve crushed it so tightly that all the wires inside have just merged into one solid piece of stainless,” Madden says. Swaging must be professionally done, and the result is extremely strong and generally has a long life. Top manufacturers of swaged fittings are Hayn Marine Rigging Products, Alexander Roberts and C. Sherman Johnson.

Mechanical fittings can be applied using a few common hand tools by the mechanically handy DIY sailor, which is one reason they’re popular. The two primary manufacturers of mechanical fittings presently are Sta-Lok and Petersen Stainless, which produces Hi-MOD. Both are located in the U.K., and the products are distributed in the U.S. through vendors like Hayn, West Marine, Defender, and local chandleries and riggers. Generally, they consist of either three or four parts (Sta-Lok has three; Hi-MOD has four), including a sleeve; a cone; in Hi-MOD’s case, a crown wheel; and the terminal (an eye, fork, stud, etc.). If you follow directions, they are fairly straightforward to install, although not especially easy. “The mechanical fasteners are great in that you can terminate and then look inside to be sure it’s formed correctly, so you do have a way of inspecting your work,” Madden says.

However, they generally cost more than a swaged fitting; Herman says while Hi-MOD’s newer mechanical fittings are “definitely more user-friendly to assemble, they’re twice the cost of a swaged fitting.” Some riggers will recommend swaged fittings for the mast end of the rigging and mechanical fittings at the deck level: Corrosion is less prevalent at the top of the mast, and you can more easily and regularly inspect mechanical fittings at deck level, where they’re frequently subjected to salt water

Should You Replace Your Sailboat’s Rigging Yourself?

So you’ve determined your sailboat’s standing rigging needs work. Do you hire a pro or go it alone? Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). By taking on the labor yourself, you’ll probably save as much as $2,000 on the re-rigging cost, he says. Madden says that cost isn’t linear, though; as you go up in size (a bigger boat needs heavier wire and larger fittings), you’ll spend more. He’d estimate more like $4,600 for a 40-foot boat, but all of these numbers depend on how much is involved: Are there furlers? What kind of end fittings? Are the chainplates sound? Depending on the answers to those questions and others, a professionally done re-rig for a 40-footer could be closer to $6,000 or more.

If you go DIY, you will be limited to mechanical end fittings unless you hire a rigger to swage your end fittings. The Rigging Company gears much of its sales to DIY sailors and is beginning an e-commerce site to cater specifically to handy individuals. But Cockerill says it quickly becomes evident whether an owner feels comfortable enough to do the work. “You should be mechanically inclined,” he says, “and the way to find that out is if I start talking all this technical jargon and you decide whether you’re suited to handle that at all.”

Additionally, a DIY sailor needs to do plenty of research, particularly when it comes to wire quality, which is something professional sailboat rigging companies watch like hawks. Although anyone can walk into a local chandlery and buy wire, that doesn’t mean the wire is of the highest quality. Marine-suitable stainless wire is called 316 grade, but even that doesn’t mean you’re necessarily getting high-quality wire. Much depends on where it is manufactured; Herman and other riggers say the best wire today is coming from South Korea through a manufacturer called KOS, making wire to military specifications. It’s imported and sold through distributors like Alps Wire Rope.

“We only sell guaranteed-content, guaranteed-process wire,” Herman says. “There are other wires out there that are cheaper, but they’re not guaranteed.”

As for sources of wire and fittings, there are many, including major chandleries and vendors, like West Marine and Defender, as well as some private riggers, like Annapolis Rigging and the Rigging Company, which will work with you to define what you need and help you source parts and materials.

One thing all the riggers I spoke with expressed emphatically was that stainless steel needs oxygen to create a fine film of oxidation that protects the metal. The fastest route to crevice corrosion is to cover the metal with plastic or leather turnbuckle covers or to coat the fittings in tape. Enough tape to cover a cotter pin suffices; otherwise, leave the metal open to the air. Likewise, if you are re-rigging your sailboatboat, use the opportunity to check your chainplates (easily the subject of another article entirely), since that’s one of the most common points of rigging failure.

Another factor in your DIY decision-making process is simple: peace of mind. “Most of my clients say to me without any prompting, ‘This is one area I feel should be done by a professional,’’’ Madden says. “You’re out there offshore and there’s a squall coming and you start worrying about the craziest of things, and you don’t want to have any unknowns.” That’s especially true of the system that keeps the mast and sails up.

Wendy Mitman Clarke is currently between passages. She’s the director of media relations at Washington College in Chestertown, Maryland, and she and her family continue to pine and plan for the day they can return to the cruising life.

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Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging

• October 1, 2020

To prepare my IMOCA 60 Medallia for the Vendée Globe race, I have completed a full change of all the standing rigging

If the mast is stepped, the only way to thoroughly inspect rig fittings at the masthead is to go up there... Photo: James Mitchell

This was a ‘no brainer’ decision as my rigging has been around the world once already and I would never take it into the Southern Ocean for a second time.

In some ways it is easier to estimate the life of synthetic rigging, as it comes with a recommended mileage or stated lifespan if it can be UV damaged. For those with stainless steel rigging the decision on when to replace can be a harder one.

The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the sky, and partly due to the nature of metal fatigue itself.

Professional rig checks often lead to last-minute repairs for transatlantic ARC sailors. Photo: James Mitchell

The fact is that metal fatigue is inevitable and cannot be avoided. The only thing that will vary is the time a component takes to fail. So how can we make a good assessment of when rigging should be replaced?

There are a number of factors that will affect the lifespan of your standing rigging, most notably the initial quality of the rigging used and the type and frequency of sailing that you do.

Rigging quality

The quality of both wire and rod rigging is important because in both the crack initiation and growth phases of the fatigue process can be accelerated by metal impurities or unseen manufacturing defects in the component itself. Using high quality wire rigging from a well known supplier is a bigger initial outlay but the grade of metal used and manufacturing process should prolong the life of your rigging.

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When buying a secondhand boat, find out when the rigging was last replaced and try to get a copy of the invoice detailing who the supplier was – if you’re not sure, ask a rigger to take a look at it.

How you sail

In crude terms, every time your boat is used it is advancing the process of metal fatigue through the application of cyclical loads, so a boat that is raced regularly and hard will be approaching the point at which rigging failure could occur faster than a boat which is cruised intermittently.

This doesn’t mean that lightly used boats will never have to consider changing their rigging; even a dormant boat will be experiencing load cycles in some form when the mast is up. Just the action of the wind on a mast is enough to load up the rigging and any stays left loose will move with wind and wave action.

It’s not unusual for rigging wires to fracture around the swage collar

To minimise the stress caused by these load cycles while sailing it’s important to tune your rig regularly so the rigging is always at optimum tension. This will help ensure that changes in load are less extreme.

If you are not confident to set up your own rig tensions then ask your rigger to help, and later be sure to check your rig throughout the season.

Regular rigging checks

There are a couple of ways to test for early signs of fatigue not picked up by the naked eye; they include dye and NDT (non-destructive testing).

Water can enter swage terminals leading to crevis corrosion. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially bearing in mind that if any faults or impurities are discovered your insurance may then require you to change the rigging anyway.

Regular visual checks should pick up the first signs of crack growth. Look for rust on T-terminals and at swage ends, check for powdery corrosion where T-terminals insert into the mast and any signs of cracking in the same area.

Run your fingers up and down the last metre of wire above or below the swage, feeling for deformities; if the wire is not uniform the chances are that one of the individual wires has broken, even if you can’t see it, and the stay and its partner should be replaced immediately.

Visual checks for rust and powdery corrosion are your first line of defence. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Checking the head of T-terminals is a harder job as they are inside the mast itself. This will need to be done with the mast removed so a full ‘mast down’ survey carried out by a professional rigger should be scheduled at least every three years.

Picking up early signs of corrosion or replacing select components after a thorough inspection is a worthwhile exercise because it may extend the lifespan of your standing rigging.

Inevitably your insurance policy will play a big part in your decision making about whether to replace your rigging. There has been a general assumption within the sailing community that insurance companies require rigging to be replaced after ten years, but I’ve found this is not actually the case; it’s far less prescriptive than that.

A small crack has developed in this stemhead fitting just above the forestay clevis pin

The IPID (Insurance Product Information Document) with your policy should give you a clear indication of what is covered in the event of a dismasting and may also provide some food for thought on when you should replace.

Insurance companies do not stipulate a timeframe at which your standing rigging should be replaced, but they do stipulate that all parts of the boat should be regularly and appropriately checked and maintained.

In the event of a dismasting claim, the insurance company would expect to see evidence of rigging maintenance and checks carried out at appropriate intervals by a qualified person; DIY inspections will not be accepted.

It is also worth taking note that in most insurance policies a depreciation element will be applied. This normally constitutes a deduction of one third of the new value of a rig and would start to come into play when a rig approaches 10-12 years old.

Emotional cost

There’s a consequential impact of a dismasting which cannot be covered by an insurance claim, and that is the human and emotional cost. In my own sailing career I’ve had two failures of standing rigging components which I spotted while sailing and was able to jury rig for a safe return to port. I’ve also experienced a dismasting, and I can vouch that it’s not a pleasant experience.

As a regular racer I take the health of my rig very seriously, perform checks before every major race and take my rig down annually for a thorough inspection. But this is the schedule that is right for me and the miles I sail, and would be considered overkill for the average sailor. Only you can give a proper evaluation of how often and how hard your boat is used, but that makes you ultimately responsible for setting the maintenance and replacement schedule.

Metal fatigue

Wires can break, unseen, within swaged terminals

Crack initiation starts when the metal first gets put to work and is caused by the cyclical loading of metal components. In the case of standing rigging on a sailing boat, this is the loading and unloading of shrouds and stays. Think about the windward shrouds loading up, while the leeward side relaxes: this cyclical loading causes cell structures to develop within the metal, these cells gradually harden and then develop microscopic cracks.

The crack growth stage follows next and these microscopic cracks will develop into larger ones, which may eventually be visible to the naked eye on the surface of the metal component. The speed of the crack growth phase will alter depending on how often and how hard your rigging is put under load.

Ultimate failure is caused when a crack exceeds a size that results in the component no longer supporting load. Failure will be sudden.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, replacing your standing rigging - a step by step guide.

Replacing the standing rigging on a sailing yacht, a complete re-rig, in other words, may seem daunting. Still, there is a procedure to follow that can make it a relatively straightforward process for anyone who is reasonably practical.

The first decision is whether to tackle the job with the mast up or down

If you have enough time, together with the availability of a mast lift, then mast down is by far the easier option. The whole project will be more straightforward with the mast horizontal, chocked up on firm ground and accessible for inspection and work. You may even choose to do the upper mast inspection after lowering the mast to save going aloft in a bosun's chair. You can purchase each wire with swaged terminals, finished and ready to fit at both ends. You can order yourself online or with help from the Jimmy Green Rigging Team.

You can take confidence from the fact that there is a good deal of adjustment on the rigging screws to allow for minor measurement errors. It is worth noting that Team Jimmy Green set the turnbuckles at 2/3 open unless otherwise requested and undertake to produce the finished wires accurately to within plus or minus the diameter of the wire.

If the mast has to remain stepped, you need a slightly different approach, generally involving the purchase of each wire over-long with the top terminal swaged. The bottom end will need to be finished in situ by cutting to the exact length and fitting a DIY self-fit swageless (mechanical) terminal. Modern swageless terminals from Sta-Lok, Bluewave or Petersen are reasonably simple to fit so that you can be confident of success.

If you can take down each stay individually and temporarily to measure it accurately, you can order the replacements with swaged fittings at both ends. Each wire should be pulled out taut with some tension to ensure an accurate measurement. It won't be easy to measure a stay accurately while it is still in situ.

Please note that the information in yacht manuals should not be regarded as reliably accurate enough to make up a set of finished rigging.

Rigging Checklist

Rig tune and tension check on existing rigging.

• Consider any design or specification alterations
• Close inspection of all components, including measuring diameters

Take photos

Mark all tension settings, determine any possible improvements.

• Order process for mast unstepped
• Order process for mast remaining stepped

Each step is explained more fully below:

Begin by checking that your current rigging is set up and tuned correctly. This need not be as technical as it sounds - you need to be sure that you will copy a rig that works well. The essentials are mast rake and bend, athwartship vertical alignment and correct tensioning. You may want to ask for some professional advice. Still, if your current setup performs satisfactorily upwind and downwind on both tacks/gybes, it may be best to avoid interfering with the current settings. The aim of the game is to replicate the old rig with a new one within parameters that allow for adjustment and tuning.

Look for extra unnecessary shackles or toggles which may have been added to compensate for the wire being too short, and determine whether they can be omitted from the new rig.

Consider any design or specification alterations.

The next step is to survey all aspects of the rigging, including an assessment of whether the existing is the right design and specification for your anticipated purposes, e.g. Coastal, Offshore or Ocean Cruising, occasional or hard core racing.

Close inspection of all components

Carry out a thorough rigging inspection, including all the wire, terminals and clevis pins. Establish the size of every component and make notes. A good quality pair of callipers is an invaluable investment for producing accurate results.

Once you have confirmed the wire diameter, the approximate length and identified the terminals, top and bottom, it is a simple online exercise to get an accurate estimate of the replacement cost on Standing Rigging . Alternatively, Team Jimmy Green can produce a costing based on the same information.

Take photos of everything, including zoomed-in details of anything you are unsure about and any others that will serve as a reminder when fitting the new shrouds and stays.

Check for any signs of wear or structural damage and identify the probable cause.

Problems can occur for many reasons:

• Misalignment leading to stress at an odd angle
• T terminals that are not seated properly in their mast plate
• T terminals that don't quite match their mast plate
• Fittings that allow unnecessary movement
• Lack of articulation due to missing toggles
• Undersized clevis pins or oversized clevis pin holes

Some of these may be the reason you are replacing the rig, so avoid repeating the issue on the new setup.

Standard pin and hole diameters correspond with the thread size of the studs in the turnbuckles. Each wire diameter has a varied choice of stud/turnbuckle sizes. Components on either side of the standard sizing are denoted as Down Size and Up Size by Petersen Stainless Rigging. Threads are generally UNF or possibly the Metric equivalent. The table below sets out all the relevant sizes for standard, Down Size and Up Size components. If your rigging has unique non-standard characteristics, the Jimmy Green Rigging Team can source bespoke replacements or suggest suitable alternatives.

This chart is a guide only. Please check all dimensions before ordering your rigging.

Please note all the turnbuckle settings before disconnecting any shrouds or stays by marking them with tape or taking photos. It would be best if you loosened all the turnbuckles to disconnect them at deck level.

Remember to return them to their noted settings before measuring. The new rigging can be made to the required length with the optimum adjustment, normally 2/3 open.

One last check to ensure that there isn’t a change of fitting or a tweak in the setup that will make the new rig an improvement on the old one.

Order Process for Mast-Unstepped.

Dependent on the time factor, there are two main options to consider:

Determine the terminals required, measure the wires, make any adjustments, place your order online, or email your requirements for Team Jimmy Green to load the order for you.

N.B. The old wires should be removed from the mast and pulled out taut with a degree of tension to ensure they are straight in readiness for measuring.

Measurements are from  bearing edge to bearing edge of the pins or eyes.

Please refer to our Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions  for T terminals and studs.

Label the individual stays. You may need them as an aide memoir when you come to fit the new standing rigging.

Check and double-check your measurements and terminal fittings before ordering. Remember the old adage: “Measure twice, cut once”.

Remove the old stays, labelling them carefully and noting any amendments required to length or fittings.

Coil the wires as neatly as possible.

Send them or bring them to Jimmy Green Marine for assessment and a quote.

This option puts the onus on the Jimmy Green Rigging Team to replicate your rigging accurately.

Order Process for mast remaining stepped.

Establish the length of the existing shrouds and stays.

Please look at our Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions 

Order new wires with the required top terminals swaged on and the wire length appropriately over length for cutting and fitting in situ.

Order DIY swageless terminals for the bottom end.

The wire should be long enough to be cut and fitted with the new swageless terminal to finish at the desired length.

N.B. Replacing the forestay will be tricky if it is fitted with a headsail furler, and you may need professional help.

Take down each shroud individually. N.B. take precautions to stay the mast with a temporary line.

Measure the length accurately and replace it on the mast.

Repeat the process for each shroud or stay.

Measurements are from  BEARING EDGE TO BEARING EDGE  of the pins or eyes.

For T terminals and studs, refer to our  STANDING RIGGING CUSTOM BUILD INSTRUCTIONS .

Jimmy Green Advisory - Check your Order Details Carefully

You must check your order confirmation for any discrepancies, especially for complex orders.

Please pay special attention to orders uploaded to our website for you, e.g. those originating from telephone or email enquiries or Team Jimmy Green pattern measurement.

This will highlight any misunderstanding before the work is commenced.

There is a wealth of information available to help you to a successful conclusion on our website:

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How to Replace Your Standing Rigging for Less

When we purchased Summer Dance , the standing rigging was one system that I knew I would need to replace right away. The upper shrouds had been replaced recently with well made cables, probably from that popular online Catalina parts retailer. The backstay and forestay were in satisfactory condition but were original from 1981. The lower shrouds were a mix of mismatched, poor quality, oversized replacements and failing originals.

At first, I assumed that I would replace the backstay, forestay, and lower shrouds with kits from that same retailer. They make replacement easy with pre-made kits or they can make custom replacements from your original rigging. But their prices are steep and I’d had a bad experience with their technical support so I decided to look for other options.

Shopping around

I tried to get price quotes to compare with the Catalina parts retailer from several other rigging shops that advertise in sailing magazines and online but they were either unresponsive or vague. Next, I considered making the rigging myself from materials bought online. But investing in the proper tools would dilute the cost savings considerably. I would have to replace the rigging multiple times to recoup that investment.

Then I remembered that there is an industrial rigging company located near me. I was familiar with their regular steel wire rope products from a job that I held long ago that used their products. I called them to find out if they worked with stainless steel and if they were experienced in building sailboat rigging. Their answer to both questions was yes and they gave me a very encouraging cost per foot estimate. For about the cost of the bare wire rope to do it myself (not including tools, thimbles, and sleeves), they could do it all. That’s what I call a no-brainer.

Following are approximate costs per foot (in 2014) for standing rigging from several popular sources compared to the rigging company in my area.

Popular online Catalina parts retailer: $4.00/ft. complete West Marine: $1.02/ft. cable only McMaster-Carr: $0.85/ft. cable only Local industrial rigger: $1.13/ft. complete

I met with Cory at Broadway Industrial Supply and was surprised to learn that they fill many orders for stainless steel wire due to its popularity for architectural railings. I decided to have the shrouds made out of 316 stainless steel with thimbles and Nicro Press sleeves rather than roller-swaged terminals for two reasons: cost and simplicity.

The newer, roller-swaged style fittings are significantly more expensive than hand-pressed sleeves. The common reasons for using the new fittings are: there are fewer parts to maintain, fail, or chafe sails, and their ability to withstand a higher percentage of the breaking strength of the cable. I do admit they look really nice. Proponents make impressive claims about their superiority over the more primitive pressed sleeves. But the fact remains that pressed sleeves have been used successfully for decades in a multitude of application, are still an accepted industry practice, and even as bad as my rigging was, they performed well.

In all of the pictures in this post, the rigging tape was removed from over the swaged fittings to show their condition and workmanship.

A few words about cable types

When working with a rigger, especially an industrial rigger who may not be familiar with sailboat rigging, it’s important that you specify the correct cable type for strength, chafe avoidance, and rust resistance.

Regular steel wire rope like you can find in a home improvement or hardware store will not last long in a marine environment. Fuggedaboutit. Only stainless steel will survive and, among the different types of stainless steel cable, there are a couple of common choices. The first is 304 grade, which is slightly stronger but is less corrosion resistant or 316 grade, which is slightly less strong but more corrosion resistant. The difference between the two grades is due to the chemical composition of the metal. Your choice as to which grade to use should be made with consideration of the type of sailing you usually do (cruising or racing) and the water that you sail in (fresh or salt water).

Besides the material that the cable is made of, the construction is also important. The most common constructions that you will see are 1×19 (1 strand of 19 wires) and 7×19 (7 strands comprised of 19 wires each). The two types have different strengths, stiffness, and stretch. For applications where ease of bending and use with blocks is more important and the amount of stretch is not as important (wire to rope halyards, for example), 7×19 cable is better. In applications where minimum stretch and maximum strength are important and stiffness is not important (standing rigging, for example), 1×19 is best.

Lastly, there’s the matter of cable diameter. Your sailboat was originally equipped with cables of sufficient diameter for its design and intended use. Seldom is it beneficial to oversize the rigging diameter for racing or to endure abuse or neglect. Doing so just adds to the cost and weight aloft for negligible benefit so stick with the original diameters.

What not to do

Substandard rigging workmanship isn’t hard to spot once you’ve seen the right stuff. The cable should fit tightly around the thimbles, which should not be too small or too large for the cable diameter or the connection pin. The sleeves should be the correct size for the cable and the sleeve seam aligned perpendicular to the eye opening. Each sleeve should have the correct number of evenly spaced crimps that are appropriate for the cable diameter. Two sleeves should be pressed at each end with a space between them equal to one to two cable diameters. The cut end of the cable should extend completely through the second sleeve but not more than one cable diameter farther so as not to create frayed wires that can snag sails and skin.

The old rigging on Summer Dance was a mix of 1/8″ 1×19 wire rope (right side of the big picture) and 5/32″ 7×19 wire rope (left side of the big picture). The oversize 7×19 cables weren’t even installed in the same locations on opposite sides of the boat, which probably produced uneven loading of the mast from one side to the other.

Standard wire rope lengths

Here are the lengths of the cables for a Catalina 22 with standard rigging. All cables are 1/8” diameter, 1×19 construction.

Now’s the time to customize your rigging

Shortening or lengthening your running rigging is fairly easy and most of us have done it at some time to optimize how it works. Once your standing rigging is built, however, except for significantly shortening a cable, any other changes usually require complete replacement of the part, which can be several times the cost per foot of running rigging. So when you order your standing rigging is the time to consider any length changes for things like:

• Different type of backstay (fixed or adjustable )
• Different length turnbuckles
• Extra mast rake angle
• Quick release levers 
• Other modifications that can’t be accomplished with your current rigging.

Remove, replace, retune

To make it easier for Broadway Industrial Supply to build my rigging, I removed the old rigging and dropped it off with them for reference. If you do the same, label each cable so that you know where it came from. If your new rigging arrives without corresponding labels, you can at least match up the lengths with the old rigging to figure out where they go.

About a week later, I picked up the new rigging and was impressed with the quality of workmanship. All of the eyes were consistently and accurately formed. I had given my rigger a supply of white, heavy duty heat shrink tubing similar to what was on the original rigging. I asked him to put two pieces on each cable before making the eyes, enough to cover the crimped sleeves to prevent snagging and chafing the sails and running rigging. A few minutes with a heat gun sealed them all shut. Last, I slid white vinyl cable covers on the lower ends of all of the cables to prevent chafing the running rigging.

Installing the new standing rigging is simple for a trailer sailor after the mast is unstepped:

• Remove the clevis pins at each end if you haven’t already, replace the old cable with the new cable, and reinstall the clevis pins. Now is also a good time to install all new cotter pins or rings to leave no doubt as to the integrity of your connections.
• Step the mast back into position. You might need to first loosen any overly short turnbuckles.
• Tune the rigging as you normally would. I own a Loos tension gauge and its been a good investment to keep all the stays and shrouds at proper tension. For more about tuning and tension gauges, see How To Measure Standing Rigging Tensio n .

Open body vs. closed body turnbuckles

If you’ve done this job before, you might be asking, “But what about the turnbuckles, $tingy?” I chose not to replace my turnbuckles at the same time and that is reflected in my overall 70% cost savings over retail. My reasoning was not simply to save money, though. That was secondary. The biggest reason was that my existing closed body turnbuckles were still in good condition and I’m not convinced that open body turnbuckles are absolutely necessary, contrary to what many riggers will tell you in order to sell you more hardware.

I regularly disassemble, clean, inspect, and lubricate all of my turnbuckles. That alone negates the biggest reason given by the open body turnbuckle proponents. Yes, a tiny bit of water and dirt can get in those tiny holes in closed body turnbuckles. Yes, it won’t dry as fast as in an open body turnbuckle. But there’s also much less of it in there to begin with and to work its way down into the threads and corrode them compared to open body turnbuckles.

Another reason that proponents give for open body turnbuckles is that it is harder to see if a closed body turnbuckle is overextended. My rebuttal is that anybody who adequately familiarizes themselves with their closed body turnbuckles (through regular maintenance is a good way) should have no trouble recognizing whether a turnbuckle is overextended or not.

Moreover, my closed body turnbuckles are only exposed to fresh water so salt water corrosion isn’t a concern. I’ve also replaced some of the T bolts that were bent due to incorrectly rotated chain plates so those threads are new. If you’re not sure if your chain plate bolts are turned correctly, read Turn Those Chain Plate Bolts!

Open body turnbuckles are great, especially if you’re going to neglect their maintenance. If I needed to replace my turnbuckles, I’d give more consideration to open body ones. But body style alone isn’t enough reason for me to throw hundreds of dollars of working hardware away for shiny new hardware. Nuf said.

It’s now been almost ten years since I replaced by standing rigging this way and I have not had a single issue with it. And I sometimes push my rigging hard. If I ever need to do this job again, I’ll probably do it the same way.

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25 thoughts on “ how to replace your standing rigging for less ”.

Stingy, I really enjoy your common sense approach to boat projects, Thanks for sharing! Another thing I have seen done by cruisers on a budget is to use 2′ to 4′ of the appropriate strength galvanized chain from the chain plates to galvanized open body turn buckles that attach to the rigging. These short lengths of chain keep the extra weight down low and keep the “budget” turnbuckles up away from the elements a bit and seem to last 10 to 15 years with proper maintenance and care. Galvanized is also not prone to the “invisible” failure fractures that even good Stainless is. If you are on a budget, you can either do what works to keep moving or sit there and grow barnacles while you wait for your (money) ship to come in! Keep up the great posts!

Good advice, Warren. I can’t help but think that sailors were some of the original MacGyvers, making and fixing things with only what they had on hand and lots of ingenuity.

• Pingback: Five swing keel maintenance blunders and how to prevent them | The $tingy Sailor

Stingy, I live inland and it is difficult to source knowledge, sail rigging and assorted parts. The more detail and source info you add is appreciated tremendously and if you get some money for the link good for you. If you can edit your post to add in size of shrink wrap dia. and dia. + length of vinyl covers it would be very helpful. I was even wondering if you remembered the length of the forward shrouds after converting over to quick release system I just found a 1982 and this will be my first upgrade for money well spent. There is allot of older Catalina 22s out there in disrepair or missing parts and fewer places to ask questions. This web site is fantastic you have great ideas, thank you for taking the time to share your lessons learned and Catalina 22 knowledge.

I know what you mean. Even though we sail most often on Lake Pend Oreille where there’s a very active sailing community, we don’t live there and so can’t take advantage of their clubs to exchange knowledge. I’ll try to remember to add more detail to my posts for those who need that level of info. One of my challenges is to also make this blog general enough to be relevant to as many pocket cruisers as possible.

I believe the heat shrink tubing that I used on my standing rigging was this: 1/2 in. White Polyolefin Heat Shrink Tubing (3-Pack) . It needs to be only large enough to slip over the crimped sleeves then shrink as small as possible. That particular tubing only shrinks down to about 1/4″, so it won’t be tight around the 1/8″ shrouds but it keeps sails and lines from snagging on the thimble and sleeve edges and the wire ends. It also gives the rigging a more finished, professional look like the original rigging.

I shortened my forward lower shrouds 8-1/2″, which is close to the closed length of each quick release lever of 8-3/8″ from the bottom pin to the top-most pin position of the lever. They have two more top holes spaced 1/2″ apart that are lower that you could also use. The amount you shorten the shrouds by isn’t critical since you will leave the turnbuckle attached above the lever for fine tuning. As for the actual length of the shrouds, they should be about 12’10-1/4″ before shortening according to this diagram from the 1987 Owner’s Manual but double-check your current lengths first as there was considerable variation between boats and years.

By the way, here’s ads for two levers currently on eBay: NEW JOHNSON MARINE QUICK RELEASE HIFIELD LEVER STAINLESS SAILBOAT Hobie Shroud Extender Quick Release Hyfield Lever 1/4″ Holes 10049

Best of luck with your purchase. I hope you get a good one and we’ll see you around here as you fix her up!

Great information $tingy! One thing people may want to keep in mind, especially if they’re salt water sailers, is that the heat shrink will hold moisture at the swage and it’s virtually impossible to inspect for corrosion in that area already, even without the heat shrink. it’s a trade off one needs to conceder when building new rigging. what I do on my own boat is to leave it bare, but slip a short (12-16″) piece of 1″ pvc pipe over the lower end the the shrouds, which also covers the adjusters. moisture doesn’t collect and the cable ends, cotter pins, and other poaky things are kept away from your sails.

That’s a good point, Russ. It really is a trade-off. The tubing can help prevent water from getting into the swages in the first place but if it does, then it’s trapped there longer before it dries out. Ideally, after a five years or so in a salt water environment, we should cut the tubing off and do a closer inspection, then tape back over them.

Ironic that you should mention PVC turnbuckle boots. Watch here the day after Christmas 🙂

Where is the rigger located? In FL, by any chance??

In Spokane, WA, but there should be industrial riggers in your area. Look for one that supplies stainless steel cable for architectural hand railings, it’s the same stuff.

How did you achieve the making of the backstay with the pigtail? Did the maker create the braiding necessary to create the pigtail? e.g. Backstay, split backstay, split backstay bridle.

If you’re referring to the short pigtail attached to a single backstay that is used to hold up the boom when the mainsail is lowered, yes, the rigger made a new pigtail on the new backstay. If you’re referring to the adjustable backstay that I recently wrote about, I did not make a pigtail on that backstay. I use the topping lift instead.

I am finishing a homemade sailboat. Landlocked in Kansas. No stainless steel cables in stock, I have checked. Willing to order the 1 x 9, 1/8″ 316 cable and do the swaging myself. Planning on using eye and turnbuckle studs,at the ends of the cables as I do have turnbuckles left from another boat. These are for standing rigging. Question: can I use a swager tool bought from lowes for under $30 to get this job done on such small diameter wire?

If you’re talking about the Blue Hawk Swaging Tool model AC1058 item 348539 , then yes. That’s the same type of tool that most riggers use. There is a smaller tool that is made like a pair of dies with bolts that you tighten with a wrench to make the crimps but I’d shy away from it. Just use copper ferrules and observe the guidelines that are available only from rigging companies like Loos & Co so that you use the correct number, position, rotation, and spacing of ferrules, thimbles, and crimps.

Best of luck finishing your project! $tingy

Hi $tingy, I believe the issue that Russ mentioned regarding the extra corrosion from putting the heat shrink on the fitting isn’t so much the trapping of the moisture but the lack of oxygen to the surface of the stainless steel. Stainless can cope with moisture excellently as long as it has access to oxygen to enable it to build up a protective oxidation layer. For the same reason many riggers advise against taping up stainless fittings. Love the article though, and I’d be interested to find out what you think about Dyneema as an alternative to rigging with stainless.

Hi, Matthew

I think Dyneema is an interesting alternative and might have an advantage in some applications like high performance racing due to its very low weight aloft and the simplicity of low friction eyes instead of traditional blocks. But for the average guy cruising and club racing, it’s a novelty and he’s better off with standard parts and the wide availability products and services. I have a friend who pursued the synthetic route and by the time he was set up to make his rigging and factoring in the extra labor for splicing and pre-stretching plus the shorter lifespan of Dyneema it wasn’t any more economical.

Thanks for your question, $tingy

Great article, I am going to do exactly what you did including the addition of levers on the forward lowers and forestay. I also like the swaged eyes on both ends of the wire instead of swaged threaded stem. Do you happen t have the hole to hole measurements of the wire you had built? That would save me a bit of measuring. You mast lowering video showed me how to lower the mast single handed while the boat was on the mooring. The only hiccup I had was the mast wanted to swing from side to side when it got near the Mast-up. But no damage done.

I don’t have my exact forestay measurement handy but it’s the standard length shown in the table in the article. I didn’t modify it for a quick release lever, I simply replaced the turnbuckle with the lever and set the mast rake angle with the adjustment holes in the lever and fine tune it with my adjustable backstay.

The mast will want to swing a little from side to side when you’re raising or lowering it so just be careful for the first 45 degrees or so until the shrouds start holding it centered. If you use a 1/4″ hinge bolt in the mast step instead of the stock 5/16″ bolt, it will allow a little wiggle room without binding or bending plus it’s easier to insert and remove. That bolt never really has a load on it so strength isn’t an issue.

Check out the Dyneema! https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/8/10/synthetic-rigging-conversion We have guys in the marina with it almost two years on and zero signs of deterioration. They get remnants from cordage houses pennies on the dollar. I would have replaced with the synthetic but I was too much of a newb. No more stainless cable for me.

Hi, I’m surprised that no one has mentioned a concern about using two different metals, stainless, and copper, for these hand-pressed sleeves. In a marine environment, aren’t you guys concerned about corrosion? Worst of all, you have no way of seeing the progress of the corrosion. I’m going with the traditional rolled stainless swages or maybe even drop forged, which I just discovered here: https://www.savacable.com/Content/Images/uploaded/sava_cat.pdf (see p. 16) Thanks, Rick Owner of a Merit 25, with 3/16th head stay and back stay.

Hi, Richard

Stainless steel and copper are very close to each other on the nobility scale so they do not react to one another very much at all. Just look at the pictures in this post of the over 30-year old rigging. The sleeves are still holding strong and the wire underneath them is unaffected. Metals that are far apart from each other like stainless steel and aluminum will react to each other noticeably as I show in Beware of Galvanic Corrosion! so that’s why you would not want to use aluminum sleeves.

You mentioned using 1/8″ 1×19 wire for standing rigging. Would the running rigging for a Catalina 22 use the same diameter for 7×19 or does it need to be larger? Also, what size would you recommend for the keel-lifting cable? I didn’t see it listed in the keel maintenance article.

If you have half wire, half rope halyards and want to keep them that way, use the same diameter in 7×19. The keel lifting cable is the same diameter too. For more about replacing your standing rigging, see How to Replace Your Standing Rigging for Less . And for more about the keel lifting cable, see point #3 in Five Swing Keel Maintenance Blunders and How to Prevent Them .

Best wishes, $tingy

Interesting, I compared your lengths with the book that came with my boat and with real life lengths after a mast failure and that is what I found (totals): Forestay is 27′ 5.5″ Upper shrouds 25′ 11.75″ Forward lower shroud 13′ 6″ Aft lower shrouds 13′ 4.75″ Why? I don’t know, but I had to redo several lines (not very complicated process and cheap). Thanks for rough measurements as it allowed to arrive to some measurements.

What year is your boat? The lengths that I gave are from the owner’s manual for the pre-’86 design.

Lots of very useful information here to save money when on a limited budget without sacrificing safety

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Standing Rigging on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 14, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer standing rigging on a sailboat:

Standing rigging on a sailboat refers to fixed lines and cables that support the mast and help control its movement. It includes components like shrouds, stays, and forestays. These essential elements ensure stability and proper sail trim while underway.

Understanding the Importance of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Sailboats are marvels of engineering and ingenuity, capable of harnessing the power of the wind to transport us across vast oceans and explore far-flung destinations. As sailors, we often focus on the majestic sails, sleek hull designs, and cutting-edge navigation technology that make these vessels so awe-inspiring. However, there is one crucial component that sometimes goes unnoticed but plays a vital role in keeping our sailboats safe and seaworthy – the standing rigging.

The standing rigging refers to the network of wires and cables that support the mast and allow it to bear the tremendous loads exerted by the sails. It acts as the backbone of a sailboat’s rig , providing stability, strength, and balance. Understanding its importance is crucial for anyone who sets foot on a vessel with dreams of cruising or competing.

Firstly, let’s examine why standing rigging is essential for sailboat safety. Imagine being out at sea when suddenly your mast collapses due to faulty rigging . This nightmare scenario can easily be avoided by regularly inspecting your boat’s standing rigging for signs of wear or fatigue. Frayed wires or corroded fittings could weaken the entire structure, making it susceptible to failure under heavy winds or rough seas . By ensuring your standing rigging is in good shape through routine maintenance and inspections by professionals, you can significantly reduce this risk and ensure your own safety onboard.

Moreover, properly tensioned standing rigging is vital for maintaining optimum sailing performance. The tension in each wire within the standing rig allows for efficient transfer of power from sails to keel through mast compression. If your standing rigging is too loose or too tight, it can negatively impact your sail trim and overall boat handling capabilities. A well-tuned rig will provide better control over sail shape adjustments necessary for different wind conditions while maximizing speed potential – something every sailor strives for!

Beyond safety and performance, understanding the importance of standing rigging requires recognizing its impact on the overall balance of your sailboat. The rigging plays a crucial role in maintaining the boat’s equilibrium by counteracting the forces exerted by the sails. Without proper tension and alignment of the standing rig, a sailboat may become unbalanced, resulting in compromised stability. This imbalance can make steering more challenging, increase the risk of broaching, or even lead to capsizing in extreme cases. Therefore, paying close attention to your standing rigging ensures that your boat remains stable and enjoyable to sail.

Lastly, it is worth mentioning that investing in high-quality materials and professional rigging services will prove cost-effective in the long run . While it may be tempting to cut corners or delay necessary upgrades or maintenance, neglecting your standing rigging will only result in more significant expenses down the line. Inadequate rig tension can lead to excessive wear on other components such as sails or mast fittings, increasing their replacement frequency and cost.

In conclusion, understanding and valuing the importance of standing rigging on a sailboat is essential for sailors of all levels. It directly impacts safety at sea, enhances sailing performance, maintains balance and stability, ultimately contributing to an enjoyable experience on board. So next time you set foot on a sailboat or contemplate owning one yourself, don’t forget to give due attention to this often overlooked but vital aspect – your boat’s standing rigging!

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Inspect and Maintain Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Cracking the Code: A Step-by-Step Guide to Inspecting and Maintaining Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Introduction: Ahoy, fellow sailors! Whether you’re an experienced seafarer or a sailing enthusiast ready to cast off, understanding how to inspect and maintain your sailboat’s standing rigging is crucial for smooth voyages on the high seas. In this detailed guide, we will unravel the mysteries of standing rigging examination and upkeep, enabling you to confidently navigate through any sailing adventure. So hoist your mainsail, secure your halyards, and let’s dive into the world of rigging maintenance !

1. Understanding Standing Rigging: Before we embark on our inspection journey, let’s clarify what exactly constitutes standing rigging. Embracing technical jargon like professionals often do, this refers to those sturdy wire cables that provide support to the mast and keep everything in place as your vessel slices through the waves. These cables are under constant stress from wind pressure and oceanic forces; therefore, routine inspections are vital.

2. Assemble Your Inspection Arsenal: Essential tools at hand? Check! Embark upon your quest equipped with binoculars (to assess hard-to-reach areas), a multimeter (for electrical testing), tape measure (we love accuracy!), a notepad (to document findings), lubricant spray can (to combat rust), and some good ol’ elbow grease.

3. Visual Inspection Bonanza: Begin by examining every component of your standing rigging thoroughly. Start from bow to stern – nothing should elude your gaze! Look out for signs of fraying wires, corrosion spots – identified by those elusive green spots -, improperly tightened connections or turnbuckles hanging loose like unfortunate pirate hooks. Pay close attention when checking shrouds and stays around their terminal points.

4. Tension Testing Zen: Employing a multimeter capable of measuring tension is vital for this next step. Like tuning an instrument, each cable must be correctly tensioned to ensure optimal performance . Begin at the base of your mast, working your way up one stay or shroud after another, carefully noting the readings. Adjust tensions as needed, using the manufacturer’s guidelines as your North Star.

5. Get Into Detailing Mode: To maintain a seaworthy craft, meticulousness is key! Start by cleaning every inch of standing rigging with fresh water and mild soap to rid it of salt crystals and other corrosive agents that Mother Nature throws our way. Once dry, inspect terminals for any hidden corrosion potential. Remember to apply lubrication around all fittings where metal meets metal – preserving their longevity on this salty adventure.

6. Diving into DIY Replacements: Sometimes, despite our best efforts, some elements may need replacement eventually. Worn-out or damaged fittings demand immediate action! While there are professionals who can lend a helping hand, attempting minor repairs yourself allows you to save time and money in the long run. Just remember safety first – secure your vessel properly before venturing aloft!

7. Periodic Inspections are Pathway to Peace: As the seasons go by and maritime miles accumulate beneath your hull’s keel, remember that rigging inspections should become regular occurrences in your life as a sailor. Incorporating these tasks into your annual maintenance routine will keep you up-to-date on the health of your standing rigging and reduce unexpected surprises during those thrilling offshore adventures.

Conclusion: With this comprehensive guide in tow, inspecting and maintaining standing rigging on a sailboat will no longer bewilder even the most landlocked soul. Armed with knowledge and armed-still-with tools-of-the-trade in hand – embark upon every voyage knowing that smooth sailing is within reach! Remember comrades: vigilance coupled with clever maintenance ensures many marvelous voyages atop Neptune’s watery kingdom!

The Key Components of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat Explained

When it comes to sailing, understanding the key components of standing rigging is crucial. This system of cables and wires plays a vital role in keeping a sailboat’s mast upright and ensuring the safety of everyone on board. So, let’s dive into these essential elements to unravel their importance and how they work together seamlessly.

1. Mast: The mast, often referred to as the backbone of a sailboat, is a tall vertical structure that supports the sails. It provides stability and acts as an attachment point for various components of the standing rigging.

2. Shrouds: Shrouds are strong steel or synthetic cables that extend from the top of the mast down to its sides, creating lateral support. Usually arranged in pairs, they help prevent excessive side-to-side movement and maintain proper alignment while under sail or at anchor .

3. Forestay: Situated at the front of the mast, directly opposite to where you stand while steering, is the forestay. This forward-facing cable keeps the mast from tipping backward due to wind pressure against the sails when sailing upwind. It ensures that your sailboat remains balanced even in gusty conditions.

4. Backstay: The backstay is another essential component that counterbalances the force exerted by the forestay on your sailboat’s mast when sailing upwind or under heavy loads. Most commonly attached at or near the highest part of your boat ‘s stern (aft end), this cable prevents undue bending or breaking caused by fore-aft pressure.

5. Tangs and Turnbuckles: These small yet mighty components connect shrouds and stays to both the hull and mast with ease and allow for easy adjustment and fine-tuning of tensioning within your standing rigging system. Tangs are fittings attached directly to masts or other structural components using bolts or screws, while turnbuckles provide threaded connections allowing for precise adjustments.

6. Spreaders: Installed horizontally on either side of the mast, spreaders play a crucial role in maintaining the integrity and proper angle of shrouds. They prevent excessive bending or twisting forces by creating a wider stance for the shrouds, ensuring even stress distribution.

7. Standing Rigging Lifelines: These lines, typically made of stainless steel wires or synthetic materials like Dyneema, serve as an additional safety measure by helping to prevent crew members from falling overboard while working on deck. Strategically placed along the sides of the sailboat, they offer stability and support during maneuvering or rough seas.

Understanding these key components is vital not only for sailboat owners but also for anyone interested in sailing . Proper maintenance and routine inspections are essential to ensure optimal performance and mitigate any risks associated with deficiencies within your standing rigging system.

So next time you set sail or find yourself gazing out at a beautifully rigged sailboat, take a moment to appreciate the intricate balance and coordination that these key components provide. It’s truly a remarkable collaboration between technology, engineering, and Mother Nature herself – allowing us to glide through the waves with grace and elegance.

Common FAQs about Standing Rigging on a Sailboats Answered

Introduction: Standing rigging is an essential component of sailboats, playing a crucial role in supporting the mast and ensuring optimal performance on the water. However, many sailors are often perplexed by various aspects of standing rigging, leading to a multitude of frequently asked questions. In this comprehensive blog post, we aim to answer some of the most common FAQs about standing rigging on sailboats, providing detailed and professional insights while adding a touch of wit and cleverness.

1. What exactly is standing rigging? Ah, standing rigging – the unsung hero of every sailboat! Standing rigging refers to all the fixed elements that support the mast in an upright position. These elements typically comprise stainless steel wires called shrouds and stays along with associated fittings like turnbuckles and tangs. Think of it as the sturdy backbone that keeps your mast from taking an inconvenient swim!

2. When should I inspect my standing rigging? Regular inspections are crucial for maintaining a safe sailing experience. We recommend inspecting your standing rigging at least once a year or before embarking on any long voyage. Additionally, keep an eye out for any signs indicating potential problems such as excessive rust, wire deformation, or frayed cables. Remember: It’s better to be safe on land than sorry at sea !

3. How do I know when it’s time to replace my standing rigging? While rigorous inspections can highlight any potential issues, there are certain indicators that suggest your standing rigging might need replacement sooner than later:

a) Age: As a general rule of thumb, consider replacing your standing rigging after 10-15 years. b) Visible damage: If you spot visible signs of wear and tear like broken strands or corroded fittings, it’s time for new gear. c) Elongation: In some cases, constant strain can cause wire elongation over time – if this exceeds manufacturer recommendations or 5%, it’s replacement time. d) Performance decline: Have you noticed reduced boat performance or excessive mast movement? Outdated rigging may be the culprit.

4. Can I inspect and replace standing rigging myself? Inspecting your own standing rigging is indeed possible if you possess adequate knowledge and experience. However, replacing it yourself requires specific expertise, so unless you’re a seasoned sailor with professional background in rigging, we highly recommend entrusting this task to certified riggers who can ensure everything is done correctly. After all, your safety should never be compromised!

5. How much does standing rigging replacement cost? Ah, the golden question! While costs can vary depending on factors like the size of your boat, the material used for new rigging (stainless steel or synthetic fibers), and labor expenses – expect to invest anywhere from a few thousand to tens of thousands of dollars for a complete standing rigging replacement. Remember that proper maintenance upfront can help extend the lifespan of your rigging and save you some precious doubloons!

6. Can I switch from stainless steel to synthetic fibers for my standing rigging? Absolutely! Synthetic fiber alternatives like Dyneema® have gained popularity due to their lighter weight, high strength-to-weight ratio, and lower corrosion risk compared to stainless steel. These materials offer enhanced performance capabilities and are a valid consideration when upgrading or replacing your standing rigging system entirely.

7. What’s the typical lifespan of synthetic fiber standing rigging? While longevity depends on various factors such as usage patterns and environmental conditions, well-maintained synthetic fiber standing rigging systems generally last around 10-12 years before requiring replacement – comparable to their stainless steel counterparts.

Conclusion: Standing rigging on sailboats may seem mysterious at first glance, but by answering these common FAQs with informative yet witty explanations, we hope to shed light on this crucial sailing component while bringing a smile to our readers’ faces. Remember, understanding and properly maintaining your standing rigging will ensure safe and enjoyable voyages for years to come. So, stay rig-ready and sail on!

Upgrading Your Standing Rigging: What You Need to Know

In the world of sailing, upgrading your standing rigging is a vital decision that can greatly impact your vessel’s performance and overall safety. The standing rigging, which includes the various wires and cables that hold the mast upright, plays an essential role in ensuring stability and proper sail control. In this blog post, we will delve into everything you need to know about this crucial aspect of sailing.

Firstly, why should you consider upgrading your standing rigging? Over time, wear and tear can take a toll on this crucial component of your boat . Exposure to harsh weather conditions, continuous strain from strong winds or heavy sails, and even galvanic corrosion can all lead to the degradation of your rigging. As a responsible sailor, it is imperative to regularly assess the condition of your standing rigging and determine when an upgrade is necessary.

When it comes to upgrading your standing rigging, there are several key factors you need to consider. One essential aspect is choosing the right materials for your new rigging. Traditionally, stainless steel has been widely used due to its durability and strength. However, recent advancements in composite materials have opened up new possibilities for sailors. High-tech fibers like carbon or aramid offer impressive strength-to-weight ratios while being less susceptible to corrosion than steel.

It is important to consult with an experienced rigger or marine engineer who can guide you in selecting the most suitable material for your specific sailing activities and vessel type. They will take into account factors such as boat size, intended use (racing or cruising), budget constraints, and local climate conditions before recommending the best material for your standing rigging upgrade.

Another crucial consideration in upgrading your standing rigging is determining whether you want to switch from wire rope-based rigging to rod-based systems or composite products. Rods are known for their superior stiffness and excellent fatigue resistance but may require specialized equipment for assembly and maintenance. Composite systems typically combine carbon fiber or fiberglass with a resin matrix, offering versatility and customization options.

Furthermore, when planning to upgrade your standing rigging, it’s essential to conduct a thorough inspection of the mast and fittings. Any signs of wear and tear, cracks, or deformations in the mast or associated hardware should not be overlooked. Reinforcing these components may be necessary before installing new rigging to ensure optimal safety and performance .

During the installation process itself, meticulous attention to detail is crucial. Proper tensioning and alignment of the rigging are vital for achieving optimal sailing performance . Consulting with professionals in the field will ensure that you avoid common pitfalls such as over-tensioning or under-tensioning your rigging, which can potentially compromise its strength and longevity.

Upgrading your standing rigging not only ensures a safer sailing experience but also presents an opportunity to enhance your vessel’s performance capabilities. By optimizing sail control and reducing overall weight aloft, you can achieve faster speeds and improved maneuverability on the water.

In conclusion, upgrading your standing rigging is an investment that should never be taken lightly. It requires careful consideration of multiple factors such as materials, boat specifications, and local conditions. Seeking expert advice throughout this process will help you make informed decisions that align with your sailing goals while ensuring maximum safety and enjoyment on the open seas . So don’t hesitate – take charge of your vessel’s integrity today by embarking on an exhilarating upgrade journey!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Navigating the High Seas of Standing Rigging: Deconstructing Common Sailboat Troubles

Introduction: Setting sail on a beautiful day, wind in your hair, and salt in the air – there’s nothing quite like the freedom of sailing. But as any experienced sailor knows, with great freedom comes great responsibility; one must always be prepared to tackle common issues that can arise with standing rigging on a sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll be your navigational chart through the murky waters of troubleshooting these problems.

1. The Tale of Loose Wires: Picture this: you’re out at sea, enjoying the blissful embrace of nature when suddenly you notice an unsettling amount of slack in your boat’s rigging wires. As panic sets in, take a deep breath and remember that loose wires are not an uncommon predicament. Before jumping ship into despair, consider inspecting your turnbuckles for any signs of wear or corrosion. Often, a simple tightening or lubing can solve the issue and restore equilibrium to your rigging system.

2. Strange Groans from Your Mast: As the wind howls through your sails, does it feel like someone is playing an eerie tune on your mast? Fear not! These disconcerting noises can typically be traced back to halyards rubbing against sheaves or pulleys. Be diligent about inspecting these components and ensuring they are properly aligned and lubricated.

3. The Mystery of Shaky Connections: Imagine cruising along peacefully when you notice unsettling vibrations emanating from various connections within your standing rigging system – another nuisance faced by many sailors. Remember to check bolts and fittings for tightness and wear regularly; sometimes a mere tightening can spare you from enduring an inconvenient wobble during every voyage.

4. Elusive Corrosion Castaways: While corrosion may seem like a mythical creature lurking under layers of saltwater incantations, it sadly isn’t. The corrosive effects of the marine environment can take their toll on your rigging, leading to weakened and compromised wires. To avoid this encroaching villain, regularly inspect your rigging for signs of corrosion, paying extra attention to any dissimilar metals in contact with each other. When identified early, you can tackle this issue head-on through diligent cleaning and application of protective coatings.

5. That Perplexing Sag: No one wants a saggy rig! If you notice an unacceptable amount of slack or downward curve in your wire stays or shrouds when under load, it’s time to put on your problem-solving hat. Begin by ensuring that all turnbuckles are suitably tensioned and that the mast rake is properly adjusted. A little fine-tuning may be all it takes to regain the tautness required for smooth sailing .

6. Stay Seals Against Abrasion: Do you find your stay seals battling against wear and tear? It might be time to beef up their defenses! Insulate vulnerable areas with appropriately sized rubber tubing or durable tape like self-amalgamating tape. This extra layer of protection will help prevent damage from chafing lines or abrasive surfaces.

Conclusion: As sailboat enthusiasts know, standing rigging issues can arise unexpectedly and interrupt even the most idyllic voyages at sea. By keeping these troubleshooting considerations in mind while setting sail , you’ll have a handy compass to lead you through the challenges that come with maintaining a well-maintained rig. So next time the wind whispers trouble into your ears while adrift on your beautiful vessel, fear not – armed with knowledge and wit, you’ll conquer those common issues with ease and go back to enjoying the sublime freedom provided by sailing adventures!

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Standing Rigging Inspections, Maintenance and Replacement

Standing Rigging Inspections – One part of sailboats and yachts that must be inspected, maintained, or even replaced when necessary is the standing rigging. It is comprised of fixed lines, wires, or rods that are designed to support each mast or bowsprit on sailing vessels. These specific components likewise reinforce the spars against increased loads when wind interacts with the sails.

Standing Rigging Inspections

A Standing Rigging Inspection must be done first to check the condition of the standing rigging, as issues with the standing rigging if not fix correctly and quickly can result in the mast falling down. When conducting inspections, you can easily identify components that require repairs and replacements.

Normally, the replacement of standing rigging should be done every 10 years. Generally, insurance companies today require the standing rigging be replaced approximately every 7-10 years, depending on how often, or how far the yacht is sailed, they may require the rigging to be replaced earlier than 7 years. (Check with your insurance company, as policies may vary) Insurance companies also commonly request a professional rigging inspection and survey of the yacht when a used boat is sold or if a new policy is to be obtained. If the standing rigging is in excess of 7-10 years, most insurance companies will not insure the yachts rigging.

When carrying out standing rigging inspections, you must start at the masthead. Looking closely for any signs of corrosion, cracks, or breaks of any kind in the standing rigging (ei. In the wire, terminal ends, rod, toggles, pins, backing plates etc.) as you are slowly lowered down the mast. When we conduct rigging inspections, we check over all mast and sailing components, all the way down to the chainplates. Other components that must be checked for any damages or performance issues include swivels, back and forestay fittings, tang plates and toggle fittings, shrouds, swaged terminal ends, mainsail track, spreaders, turnbuckles, chainplates, blocks, running rigging, sheaves, and spars etc.

Riggtech recommends getting an annual professional rigging inspection to check over all sailing components to ensure smooth and precise sailing, regardless of the conditions you’ll face.

Maintenance

Whether you are a racer or cruiser, it is important to maintain your yacht. Here are some parts of rigging that need to be checked and ways on how to maintain them. You can do it yourself or if you don’t have the time, we can do it for you!

• Halyard Swivels : Oiling halyard swivels makes releasing clips or removing twists in rope easier and smoother. (Purchase Harken OneDrop from our online shop)
• Sail Tracks : To make hoisting and lowering sails easy and smooth, it is a good practice to spray the tracks or bolt rope with some lubricant, we recommend Harken Sailkote. It is a silicon spray that stays extremely slippery after it dries. Head to our online shop to purchase some!
• Furler Bearings : Greasing furler bearings is quick and easy and makes furling sails in and out a breeze. Make sure to drop the sail to grease the bearings in the swivel and in the drum.
• Sheaves : Sheaves in the mast, on the deck or in blocks should be oiled, so they run smoothly, preventing corrosion and seizure of the bearings or sheaves. (Purchase Harken OneDrop from our online shop)
• Split Pins and Split Rings : Checking split pins and split rings is important to prevent clevis pins from falling out and leading to catastrophic failures. Checking for sharp edges in these is also important to prevent the sail from catching and potentially ripping. We recommend using amalgamating tape, electrical tape or silicon for protection and prevention.

Replacement

The most efficient and cost-effective way to replace the standing rigging to a yacht is to remove the entire mast and rigging from the yacht. This way you can do all the stays at the same time, you can make the pairs the same lengths and it is also much easier to check over the whole mast and make any repairs and replacements where needed. At Riggtech we make sure we replace every standing rigging component from the top pins to the bottom pins, so there isn’t any weak link.

The alternative is replacing the standing rigging while the mast is in the boat, we do not recommend this, as you have to support the rig systematically as you de-tension, remove, make and replace individual stays to the mast. This is a very time-consuming process, because it involves a lot of mast climbing, making individual stays and tensioning and de-tensioning, it can also be extremely dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Components that have either corroded or have obtained huge cracks and damages should be replaced right away to avoid compromising the whole standing rigging. If you want to know more about its inspection, maintenance, and replacement, feel free to contact us at Riggtech .

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Catalina 36/375 International Association

You are here, estimated cost to replace standing rigging.

I am getting an estimate right now from a local rigger for a complete standing rigging replacement; and I was wondering if anyone who has had this project done might be good enough to give me a rough ballpark figure for the job. Understanding there are a number of variables including location, mechanical vs swaged fittings, etc, I really just need rough numbers so I can get a frame of reference to guage his quote. In my general internet search, I have seen numbers ranging from $1,200 to $6,000 for a Catalina 36 or boats similar to it. I'm hoping to narrow that down a little bit.

As always, thanks for the help.

Tobaygo 1987 Catalina 36 MKI #660 Tampa Bay, FL

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If you are doing the work yourself, I found the cheapest place was Catalina. I think I paid about $1800 4 or 5 years ago. If you are using a rigger, may or may not be a savings if you supply the material...a good question to ask.

Ken and Vicki Juul SV Luna Loca C34 #1090 Chesapeake Bay

Hey Ken, thanks for the reply. Because my job keeps me overseas for such a large portion of the year, I like to keep my "work" time on the boat to a minimum these days so I am having the rigging done for me. I thought about ordering the kit from Catalina Direct, but they apparently no longer carry it. $1800 seems like a pretty good deal.

So we'll see what they quote me for the complete job; in the mean time, if anyone else has any other priicing information it would be greatly apreciated!

Did you ever finish this project? What was the bottom line?

Bruce Campbell Evergreen Dreams #1409

Adam, from a search on "rigging cost" on our C34 board: [url] http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3227.0.html[/url]

Lots has to do with what you have, who does it and what materials you choose.

You can also do a search here on this board, 'cuz [I]'m sure[/I] someone has asked this ? before...:) Try rigging costs, standing rigging, etc.

Good luck, it's only a budget, it's a boat, it always costs more, yada yada yada...:eek:

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

Here's quote I got from a reputable rigger in St. Pete when I bought my boat last June. I didn't get the job done, as the same rigger went aloft and did my rigging survey and said it was in good condition. An honest man! I'll get it done next year in any case cause I'm sure its original from 1994. And the thing I liked the most is that he will do the job without the boat being hauled or mast unstepped. And I think I will also have him replace the masthead sheaves, from other comments I've got from this forum. Sam

Capt. Sam Murphy 1994 Catalina 36, Hull 1327 Shoal draft, two cabin model. Panama City, Florida

I finally found out the current cost (in Seattle) for standing rigging. We put the boat into the yard for a new electronics suite and decided to move the radar to the mast from the backstay.

The yard wanted to drop the rig to wire the radar. And since the boat was launched 17 years ago and the rig had never (to my knowledge) been out of the boat, it seemed like a good time to renew all the standing rigging. Got two quotes from the only people I trust and the cost of the rigging came out to $1800 give or take a few pennies. The labor cost was very low since the mast was already down.

We also decided to add a backstay adjuster. We are replacing the two lower sections of the backstay with a single wire that will run through a block at the bottom of the upper backstay. That will cascade into a 6 to 1 system. Very much like the setup on some of the newer Beneteaus and Jenneaus.

Bruce, when doing your split backstay, instead of one turnbuckle up high where the backstay meets the split, consider two turnbuckles at each side of the split at the transom. It's hard to reach that high for future adjustments.

I forgot about this topic; sorry I didn't post a follow up. I did replace the standing rigging. I eneded up using Sunrise Sails and Rigging in Palmetto, FL. The owner Jimmy, is a good guy, and offers exceptional service. He wasn't the cheapest around, but he delivers what he promises, and he does it on time which was important to me.

All in all I spent about $4200 on the rigging, labor and a new Harken MKIV (model 1) furler. So that was about $2200 for the furler itself, plus the balance in parts and labor to install the rigging, then labor for the furler when it came in.

He is actually coming back to the boat this week to re-tune the rigging now that I have a few months of sailing on it (no extra charge) so I'll be good to head out to the Dry Tortugas when I get home.

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 12-03-2020, 04:06   Boat: Beneteau 361, 36 on my . She is an 04 361. I am in the Middle area of Virginia and thought it would be competitive there, But I really dont have any experience in the cost of this and have nothing to judge it with. Cost to unstep and restep while by my yard is around $2,400, cost to repalce the is $6,800. So, $9,200 is my final cost. I really expected less and am surprized. Do any of you folks have any experience in similar sized, (36 ft.) rigged ? Thanks in advance for your opionions, . 12-03-2020, 04:18   is s bit expensive Don’t know your rigging style Number of spreaders , tip cups Roller type , boot type ... Some rigging styles are expensive to Also it’s not clear the level of mast detailing in the estimate A rig pull and rigging replace normally means a complete mast , all components dissembled cleaned greased..... 12-03-2020, 05:04   Boat: Beneteau 361, 36 stepped, with double spreaders, , with split backstay. 12-03-2020, 05:15   Boat: Carver,Cobia,Nacra, Columbia can not ship them from the factory near I-95 with the mast up! 12-03-2020, 05:16   Boat: 40 foot Schucker motorsailer and 46 foot Ted Brewer custom in mast wire and new instrument. Riggers tape on the end of the four speakers plus new mast boot. 12-03-2020, 05:27   fee The OP indicated that he will have the mast pulled while the is out of the This is s complicated process and may require a special extra long length reach crane plus additional manpower 12-03-2020, 05:31   Boat: Lunstroo Marwin area of Virginia and thought it would be competitive there, But I really dont have any experience in the cost of this and have nothing to judge it with. Cost to unstep and restep while by my yard is around $2,400, cost to repalce the rigging is $6,800. So, $9,200 is my final cost. I really expected less and am surprized. Do any of you folks have any experience in similar sized, (36 ft.) rigged ? Thanks in advance for your opionions, . 12-03-2020, 05:36   .) you could try to find old stock / unpaid mast for discounted ? 12-03-2020, 05:36   Boat: 40 foot Schucker motorsailer and 46 foot Ted Brewer custom with twin back stays. Your cost for the same work should be less than 2/3 of my costs if you help with everything and source your own materials. I was able to get contractor prices on most materials. 12-03-2020, 05:36   Boat: Morgan Out Island 41 yard in prep for transport and they did both masts (ketch) for around $600, which seems to be average. from my experience in the U.S. (Only cost me $200 each way up here in Canada) The cost to replace the rig also seems high. Its pretty simple. all you do is label and remove the wires and replicate. shouldn't cost more than $3k. I replaced my entire standing rig for $3900 CAD and that is 13 stays (main, mizzen and Triatic) shop around. 12-03-2020, 05:43   Boat: Gulfstar 37 area for supplies. 12-03-2020, 07:36   12-03-2020, 08:37   Boat: Catalina Morgan 45 12-03-2020, 09:23   Boat: Norseman 447cc stepped mast. I paid $2400 for a 63' dual spreader mast that had spar-tite installed the wrong way which made pulling the mast something of a nightmare. Mine was in the and the yard has a crane by the waterside to pull, it would have been at least another $1,000 if a crane had to be brought in to pull it. The cost on the actual rigging sounds about right depending on what they are using, I used hy-mods for everything and the boat is rigged with roller furlers on everything, insulators for the back stay, a new topping , and new rigging for the running back stays. I think the total for all of that, plus fixing some on the spreaders ran about $9,200. 12-03-2020, 09:27   , Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post pwillems Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 1 29-07-2015 05:39 zerompg Boat Ownership & Making a Living 17 21-05-2015 13:50 Target9000 Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 24 07-10-2012 13:17 FraidNot Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 3 14-07-2010 07:14 sailorgal Multihull Sailboats 7 27-09-2008 22:15 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Exact Cost To Replace Standing Rigging in the UK Over time, wear and tear can cause damage to the standing rigging of your boat, which may require a full or partial replacement. You have the option to either do a DIY replacement or hire a professional to do the job, but the costs may vary depending on the complexity of the rigging and the materials used. To help you estimate the exact cost of replacing your standing rigging in the UK, here's what you can expect. The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a small sailboat measuring 20–30 feet is around £1,000–£2,500. For a medium sailboat, replacement costs can range from £2,500 to £4,500. Meanwhile, for large sailboats measuring 40–50 feet, the cost can escalate from £4,500 to £7,000. You might only spend around £400–£1,500 to replace the standing rigging of a boat under 30 feet, but hiring a professional might double the costs. Let's see how else you can save on the cost of replacing your boat's standing rigging. Replacing the standing rigging by yourself only costs around £400 to £1,500 for boats under 30 feet, almost half the cost of hiring a professional rigger, however, it can be a time-consuming process, particularly for inexperienced individuals. Synthetic fiber rigging may have a higher initial cost, but it can be more cost-effective in the long run. Medium sailboats have a more complex rigging design and therefore require a higher labor cost to remove and install. Using high-quality materials, such as marine-grade stainless steel, is more expensive but is also more durable and can last longer than cheaper materials. Stainless steel wire may be a more affordable option for smaller boats or those with lower performance requirements. On this page: Cost of standing rigging replacement per boat type, cost of standing rigging replacement per material, cost of standing rigging replacement per company, pros and cons of doing diy standing rigging replacement. In this section, we will discuss the average costs of standing rigging replacement for boats in the UK by comparing costs for different types of boats, rigging materials, and rigging companies. Beow is a breakdown of approximate costs for different types of boats: £1,000 - £2,500 £2,500 - £4,500 £4,500 - £7,000 The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a small sailboat Small sailboats with a length of 20–30 feet only have an estimated cost range of £1,000–£2,500. This is because small sailboats typically have simpler rigging systems than larger ones, which means that the cost of replacement is lower. The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a medium sailboat The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a medium sailboat with a length of 30–40 feet is estimated to be around £2,500 - £4,500. This cost includes the cost of the materials, the labor involved in removing and installing the rigging, and any additional work that may be required to ensure the safety and integrity of the boat. Using high-quality materials, such as marine-grade stainless steel , is more expensive but is also more durable and can last longer than cheaper materials. Since medium sailboats have a more complex rigging design, it will require more work and time to remove and install the rigging. The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a large sailboat Replacing the standing rigging of large sailboats with a length of 40–50 feet ranges from £4,500 - £7,000, but in some, it can range from £10,000 to £30,000 or more. This cost can be affected by the complexity of the rigging system, the type of mast, and the number of shrouds and stays required. Using high-quality materials for riggings, such as carbon fiber or titanium, will be more expensive than traditional materials such as stainless steel. However, these materials can offer significant advantages in terms of weight reduction and performance. Also, If the boat has a tall mast or multiple sails, the rigging may be more complex and require more time and labor to install. Below is a comparison of the most common rigging materials in the UK and their approximate costs: £10 - £20 £15 - £30 £40 - £60 Cost of stainless steel rigging Stainless steel 1x19 wire is a popular rigging material due to its strength and durability. It is commonly used in standing rigging systems and is relatively affordable, with a cost range of £10 - £20 per meter. However, stainless steel wire can corrode over time, especially in saltwater environments, and requires regular maintenance to prevent failure. Cost of dyform wire rigging Dyform wire is a higher-grade stainless steel wire that is more resistant to corrosion and fatigue. It is also stronger than standard stainless steel wire and is commonly used in high-performance racing yachts. However, it comes at a higher cost, with a range of £15 - £30 per meter. Cost of synthetic fiber rigging Synthetic fiber rigging, such as Dyneema, is becoming an increasingly popular alternative to traditional wire rigging due to its lightweight and low maintenance requirements. It is also highly resistant to UV damage and does not corrode. However, it is the most expensive option, with a cost range of £40 - £60 per meter. While synthetic fiber rigging may have a higher initial cost , it may be more cost-effective in the long run due to its low maintenance requirements and longer lifespan. On the other hand, stainless steel wire may be a more affordable option for smaller boats or those with lower performance requirements. Some factors to consider when comparing rigging companies include their reputation, the scope of work included in the price, and the availability of after-sales support. It's a good idea to get several quotes from different companies before making your decision. Some of the most popular companies in the UK that offer rigging services are the following: £3,000 to £5,000 £2,500 to £4,500 £3,000 to £5,000 Cost of rigging replacement at Allspars Allspars is a rigging company based in Plymouth, UK, that specializes in the design, manufacture, and installation of masts, booms, and rigging systems for sailboats. They have been in business for over 30 years and have a reputation for producing high-quality, reliable products. In addition to their manufacturing operations, Allspars also offers rigging services for sailboats. Their rigging services include standing rigging replacement, running rigging replacement, mast and boom repairs, and rig tuning. Allspars has a strong commitment to customer service and offers a 24-hour emergency callout service for urgent rigging repairs. They also have a network of service centers throughout the UK and Europe, which means that their rigging services are available in many different locations. Their estimated cost for standing rigging replacement is around £3,000 to £5,000. Cost of rigging replacement at Selden Mast Selden Mast is a global company that specializes in the design, manufacture, and distribution of masts, booms, and rigging systems for sailboats. They also have rigging services such as standing rigging replacement, running rigging replacement, mast and boom repairs, and rig tuning. They have a global network of dealers and service centers, which means that their rigging services are available in many different countries around the world. Their estimated cost for standing rigging replacement is around £2,500 to £4,500. Cost of rigging replacement at Hamble Yacht Services Hamble Yacht Services is a full-service yacht repair and maintenance company based in Hamble, UK. They offer a wide range of services, including rigging, electrical, mechanical, and cosmetic repairs, as well as boat maintenance and storage. Their estimated cost for standing rigging replacement is around £3,000 to £5,000. Their rigging services include standing rigging replacement, running rigging replacement, mast and boom repairs, and rig tuning. They work on a variety of boats, from small dinghies to large yachts, and they have a team of experienced riggers who can provide expert advice and guidance on all aspects of rigging. In this section, we will explore the pros and cons of DIY standing rigging replacement, compare costs, and consider safety aspects. Can save you money Time-consuming Convenient High risk of errors Can be a valuable learning experience Limited access to equipment Cost comparison with professional replacement To give you an idea of the cost difference between DIY and professional standing rigging replacement, here's a rough estimate: £400 - £1,500 £1,000 - £3,000 £1,500 - £3,000 £2,000 - £6,000 Safety considerations when doing DIY rig replacement Here are some safety tips to keep in mind when considering a DIY standing rigging replacement: Assess your skills: Be honest with yourself about your abilities. If you're uncertain about any aspect of the project, consider seeking professional advice or assistance. Use appropriate tools and equipment: Try to make sure that you have the correct tools and equipment for the job. This may involve renting or borrowing from fellow boat owners. Double-check your work: Carefully inspect your work upon completion, looking for any potential errors or issues. Seek guidance: Reach out to experienced sailors or riggers for tips and advice. You can often find valuable guidance through online forums and local sailing clubs. Leave a comment You may also like, average cost to replace standing rigging (with examples). Upgrading or replacing the standing rigging on your sailboat is an essential maintenance task to ensure the safety and performance of your vessel. The cost of this … How Often Should Standing Rigging Be Replaced? (Minimally) Exact Cost To Replace Standing Rigging in Australia The Pros and Cons of Dyneema vs Stainless Rigging The Best Size Dyneema for Standing Rigging Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Standing rigging replacement cost Thread starter BobM Start date Jan 16, 2009 Forums for All Owners Ask All Sailors I went up the mast on a friend's runaway halyard on a C22 on the hard. The marina guy came out and said NO mast climbing on the hard. This, fortunately, was when I was done.   My .02 Go ahead and pull the stick and to it right. Get everything done that needs done while it is down. This is one area where you do not want to scrimp, or try to save a few bucks. You will be money ahead in the long run. I can tell you from experience, you do not want a stay breaking while you are sailing. And I would never go up a mast when the boat is on the hard.   1500-2000 sounds high...but it depends on the area..number of riggers avail to do the work. You can get an idea of the cost of materials from rigging.com. If someone will go up, you can take the back stay down, send it to them for an exact replacement. Typically norseman or stayloc fittings are approx $50 ea and the wire is $1+ per ft. Bob   Sorry, thats riggingonly.com in Fairhaven-in your back yard??? Bob   That's sound pretty expensive, even if they are doing the installation. I'd price it with rigging only as well... they're a good shop.   Kevin.. Kevin is great and usually very competitive, NE Rigging is who I use for just about all my rigging. He can be a little flaky but knows his stuff inside and out. It's worth the drive for me to go all the way to Concord, MA. Jay Maloney up here in Maine is good too but is much more expensive. You do not need Kevin to come and do the install so you can save some money there. Simply have the yard remove the spar and put it in supports or on saw horses. Remove each stay and mark where it came from, port upper, stbd upper, back stay etc. etc.. Remove and roll them carefully to about three foot circles and zip tie them so they don't go sproing! Put them in your trunk and drive them to Kevin in Concord, MA and he can duplicate them. Put the new ones back on where the old ones came off have the yard step the spar and you're done. It is not advisable to go up the spar on the hard and remove one of the main supports or stays. If it were your lowers that's one thing but even with a halyard run as support I would not advise it especially on the hard. you'll need to pull the stick either way..   You may want to contact Seco South in Fl. They quoted me about 1000-1200 for a 37.5 Hunter. I am sure that the Hunter has a lot more rigging than your 29 ft.'r   Maine Sail said: It is not advisable to go up the spar on the hard and remove one of the main supports or stays. Click to expand Kevin was very nice and the price, a ballpark which I hope included installation and tuning, did not seem unreasonable . They will come out and inspect and provide a solid quote no problem. I just need a solid quote from my marina on dropping and raising the mast. My gut is telling me they will be close to $500 for both ways, based on quotes I got last year down in CT when I was considering moving the boat over land. Based on past experience, I know the only way to fly is to have the originals for comparison. (I have a nice set of lowers in a slightly thicker wire size for an L25 if anyone is interested, but the Gibbs tees are wrong too.) It is just one of the unpleasantries of having a good old boat...sometimes you have to fix things when you'd rather not. After two months of weekends last year doing the drive train I'd really rather pass on a major repair this spring, but looks like I won't get a say in the matter! It is the totality of the think...not just the rigging...but knowing that I ideally should make a huge job of it while the mast is down and perhaps even paint the whole mast, rewire it, replace all the light fixtures, rewire it, check and replace the sheaves, check and repair the deck under the mast...etc...etc...etc...that is getting me down. (a) because I can't afford it and (b) just because I don't feel like spending 6-10 weekends fixng things that weren't on my list last fall and (c) I don't want to start my season the beginning of August again!   Is that price for just the backstay?? I got a new backstay last year with all fittings for my P36-2 (51 ft mast) for $400+/-   NYSail...no that is for all 8...4 uppers and 4 lowers.   Finally. Made it out to the boat. Nice and dry, but I did have to shovel snow off my cover. Here is the back stay bend I've been posting about.   Attachments Bob, why are you agonizing over this? Put it in the water, change out the backstay and go sailing. Maybe you lose a day. And if you are like me it will be a perfect day and all the guys will wave as you are up the mast and they are headed to open water. You can have the wire ready for the top. Come down and put a Norseman on the bottom after you get the length right. In the fall pull the stick and you will have all winter to get the mast and boat and rigging(if needed) right for 2010(when the markets will be great after all the bailouts).   I have heard there are no dumb questions... so I'll go ahead and ask. Why is it more dangerous to go up the mast when the boat is on the hard? It seems to me that if you fall you will hit the boat in either case.   Wow, is that dumb or what? Nah, just kididng Bob. It does almost seem that it shouldn't matter. But it has to do with the support of the boat by the poppits or cradle. All the support is too close to the centerline. At the top of the mast there is too much leverage with all that weight to port and starboard. I think that you could compensate with a couple of sturdy lines around the spreader area securely tied way out to the side. But in most yards that would mean tying it to someone else's boat. Not a good idea. Anyway why play the odds?   Hire the rigger and get it done. My friend in Fl. paid about $300 to have a stay replaced in the water.   At the moment, I am just waiting for warmer weather to get the free rigging inspection. The other thing is that it is a real waste, if I do drop the mast, to not address a number of other issues...moisture in the deck near the mast...touch up / paint the mast...fix the steaming light....the usual stuff. I'd really rather sail this season. Worst case we will put her in the water, go up the mast and do just the back-stay and perhaps replace all the closed-body turn-buckles. I have a volunteer to go up the mast. I am thinking that the bend might just have been imparted by the marina workers loosening the turnbuckle. If they couldn't get it to spin in both directions and were too stupid to realize what was happening above it would perhaps explain the damage to the stay. BobM   Bob V said: so I'll go ahead and ask. Why is it more dangerous to go up the mast when the boat is on the hard? It seems to me that if you fall you will hit the boat in either case. Click to expand This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Search forums Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader What cost standing rigging? Thread starter Babylon Start date 21 Dec 2019 21 Dec 2019 Well-known member Any rough pointers on how much replacing standing rigging is likely to cost on a 27 footer? Wiring is mostly fifteen years old, except forestay which is ten. Although mast (Kemp Selden) only about 30ft with single spreaders, shrouds include two lowers and there are two backstays and an inner forestay - and thicker diameter of wire more appropriate to a yacht ten foot longer.   Active member The website for the Albin Vega Association quotes standing rigging for the Vega at £475.   LittleSister Re-rigging my 27 footer in 2017 cost me about £860 (though I was something of a captive audience, and didn't shop around - presumably both the boatyard and the riggers made money out of it). Masthead sloop, single spreader, 2 cap shrouds, 4 lowers, r/r forestay, single backstay. That comprised roughly £160 for c61m of 5mm wire, £300 for 8 swage bottle screws, £60 for 8 other swage fittings, £80 for 16 swages, £120 for on-site strip down and re-rig of mast, including 'roller fuller charge', and £145 VAT. That price was more than I was expecting (isn't it always?), but not wildly so. I think from posts on here around that time I was expecting about £700. I'd be surprised if you could do it for £475, as per the Albin Vega website quoted (what year?), unless you were re-using fittings. On a previous occasion I re-rigged a 23 footer myself, getting the rigging via mail order, which is (in theory) probably a cheaper option. (Unfortunately it turned out, having raised the heavy mast, in a packed boatyard, two-handed using a cunning and novel spider's web of ropes and blocks of my own devising, the supplier had made up the wires to incorrect lengths so the mast had to come down again. My nerves couldn't face the mental strain of raising the mast again myself in those circumstances, so the additional cost of the boatyard craning it in blew my heavily constrained budget.)   LittleSister said: Re-rigging my 27 footer in 2017 cost me about £860 (though I was something of a captive audience, and didn't shop around - presumably both the boatyard and the riggers made money out of it). Masthead sloop, single spreader, 2 cap shrouds, 4 lowers, r/r forestay, single backstay. That comprised roughly £160 for c61m of 5mm wire, £300 for 8 swage bottle screws, £60 for 8 other swage fittings, £80 for 16 swages, £120 for on-site strip down and re-rig of mast, including 'roller fuller charge', and £145 VAT. That price was more than I was expecting (isn't it always?), but not wildly so. I think from posts on here around that time I was expecting about £700. I'd be surprised if you could do it for £475, as per the Albin Vega website quoted (what year?), unless you were re-using fittings. On a previous occasion I re-rigged a 23 footer myself, getting the rigging via mail order, which is (in theory) probably a cheaper option. (Unfortunately it turned out, having raised the heavy mast, in a packed boatyard, two-handed using a cunning and novel spider's web of ropes and blocks of my own devising, the supplier had made up the wires to incorrect lengths so the mast had to come down again. My nerves couldn't face the mental strain of raising the mast again myself in those circumstances, so the additional cost of the boatyard craning it in blew my heavily constrained budget.) Click to expand... I've just bought a new back-stay for my 28 footer - single 6mm wire with a swage at both ends - cost £94   I have just re-rigged my 30 footer. Forestay, backstay, 2 caps, 2 lowers and a babystay. All turnbuckles / toggles renewed as well. 800 quid from Jimmy Green but that was with 20% off during November. I rewired the electrics in the mast, VHF coax, etc., and new lights. Oh, and a new roller furling system as that was the cause of the old forestay being kaput... so the price for the standing rigging was just the beginning of the pain really!   The Jimmy Green website already mentioned has a page where you can input your rigging dimensions and terminals to get a price for each part. Stainless Steel Wire Rigging and Wire Rope - Jimmy Green Marine You’ll either need to go up the mast or unstep it which may add to the final cost.   A middle of the road way on cost is to have swaged fittings at the top and Norseman or StayLocks at the bottom, assumig you can get up the mastto swapover the shrouds. It is not difficuilt to make up the swageless fittings yourself as long as you take your time!   C08 said: A middle of the road way on cost is to have swaged fittings at the top and Norseman or StayLocks at the bottom, assumig you can get up the mastto swapover the shrouds. It is not difficuilt to make up the swageless fittings yourself as long as you take your time! Click to expand... 22 Dec 2019 Thanks for the input folks. Mine is a total of ten lengths of 6mm plus two at 5mm (running backstays) so that's roughly 120m all up, plus Norseman terminals (I assume they are all re-usable but don't know?) and I'll be a captive of the boatyard. An association member with a 34ft version of my boat recently paid £2,900 for a complete replacement, so I'm reckoning on at least £1,500 or more... but until I hear from the riggers when I'm out the water with the mast down its all guesswork.   I would not use a rigger to replace it myself, simply send the bits off to Jimmy Green and they will measure, quote and replicate and send it all back. If it comes out at more than £800 I'll be suprised.   Gentleman of Leisure I paid £1000 for a full re rig on my 28' Mirage in 2005 including baby stay. So it appears that prices have held steady or decreased. I used Atlantic Spars from Brixham who did a good job but I understand since gone out of business.   Fr J Hackett Long time ago but I found that Jimmy Green quoted the best price for supplying the standing rigging for my V27, Check with the owners association someone will have the rigging plan and specs, I don't have them any longer. Kevin Seymour could probably help if he is still involved.   Does Jimmy Green process orders for standing rigging quickly? I am thinking of having my mast lifted out next summer (in France) and measuring for and fitting new rigging. having had good experience with JG, and not knowing a rigger in Brittany, I would probably order from them and have it sent out by courier.   Poignard said: Does Jimmy Green process orders for standing rigging quickly? I am thinking of having my mast lifted out next summer (in France) and measuring for and fitting new rigging. having had good experience with JG, and not knowing a rigger in Brittany, I would probably order from them and have it sent out by courier. Click to expand... Fr J Hackett said: Give them a ring. Click to expand... Poignard said: They are not open today and I want an answer NOW! Do you hear me? NOW! Click to expand... PetiteFleur My cost for a Moody33 - Forestay, Backstay cap, 2 lowers and babystay, all new bottle screws. I had the mast lowered and fitted them myself, also checked lights etc. Good job I lowered the mast as I found the babystay mast fitting needed replacing. Cost £858 in spring 2018 .   23 Dec 2019 From the replies here it seems that circa £1,000 is what the materials would cost, plus roughly £500 for the work if done by riggers.   Members online Richborough James_Calvert Share this page Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search About The Boat Gear & Maintenance SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft Add to quote I had an idea to hire out running rigging replacement on a 30ft sloop, with nothing fancy, just a double braid polyester. The estimate turned out to be 1700-2000+. So I told the rigger to replace just the main halyard for now (and I will do the rest by myself). He wants close to $500 for the halyard. This seems like at least 4x or 5x the cost of materials. Does this seem reasonable or am being taken for a ride?   Don't know about the price but you may want to consider sta-set-x for the halyard as it is only a few penny's more than stay-set (double braid) but with less stretch. Also I would want to know if the shivs need replacing as that would up the cost. So if your mast is what less than 40' and you have the halyard run back to the cockpit you have maybe 90' of line probably 5/16" or 3/8" at about a $1.00 a foot retail and possibly a new shackle and about two hours maybe three at $100 an hour it looks like 3 to 4 hundred might be closer unless you are not telling us something. Like the boat is on a mooring a mile out in the harbor and the line parted and the mast needs to be climbed.   Here is a tip: do it yourself. It is actually pretty easy to do. Halyards are pretty easy to replace by stitching the new line onto an end of the old line and pulling it through. David is right that if your sheaves at the top of the mast are messed up this can be much more difficult to do. Most of the lines on your boat are easy to replace but the line may cost a significant amount of money. I'd guess that you could replace ALL your running rigging on a Tartan 30 for under $500 in materials. I'd consider getting this sewing tool to attach the 2 lines together: BAINBRIDGE INTL Needle at West Marine be smart about burning the ends of each line you cut.   When we got our Taran 27' about 8 years ago the PO spent the day with me and we replaced a sheet and and a halyard together. It was not difficult to do without going up the mast in a boasuns chair. There is also the trick of using a paper clip that has been bent into a double hook arrangement to grab each end of the line. You don't really want a joint between the lines that is fatter so splicing might or might not work as well as just sewing the two bitter ends together and covering with the rigging tape of your choice. I also really like to know how my running rigging lines are routed. DIY makes sense to me.   CalebD said: There is also the trick of using a paper clip that has been bent into a double hook arrangement to grab each end of the line. You don't really want a joint between the lines that is fatter so splicing might or might not work as well as just sewing the two bitter ends together and covering with the rigging tape of your choice. I also really like to know how my running rigging lines are routed. DIY makes sense to me. Click to expand... I replaced the main halyard and spin halyard on my previous boat. Had the eye splices done by Defender's rigging service and pulled them through using a light messenger with the mast up. Pretty easy job.   Zib, I'm with Caleb on this one. $300 worth of labor, hell, I'd be ashamed if it took me a single hour to replace an existing line with a new one. Buy an extra ten feet of line and a splicing kit and video, spend some time learning how to splice in whatever the end fitting will be and consider yourself well paid by the savings. Or run a messenger line with the old halyard, then drop the new line and eye off at a shop and have someone make the splice. That surely can't cost more than $75....and you can still feed the new halyard "backwards" with the messenger line that way. The rigger's time is certainly worth money, but three hours at a hundred apiece to run a halyard...I hope that includes a titanium shackle, because the price of gold is only $1600 an ounce these days and 24k plating doesn't need a dollar's worth of it.   I just spent an inordinate amount of time researching and then purchasing new running rigging. Fortunately I have all the original specs for my sailboat ... if you don't try looking here Sailboatdata.com is the worlds largest sailboat and sailing yacht database with more than 8000 sailboats, sailing yachts, and sailing dingies listed. I'm modifying deck layout and running everything back to the cockpit ... no real existing hardware (I have to purchase) so it was relatively easy to spec size. I sketched out each and every line ... measured what I could to determine what I wanted/needed ... read as many posts as I could here and on Cruiser's Forum and Anything Sailing regarding grade and quality ... personally spoke with 2 riggers and 3 chandleries ... got quotes from Cajun Rope (good place to look and compare notes as they have premade kits id'd for many size boats) and two other places as well as searching ebay for bulk ... and in the end ... ending up purchasing at R&W Rope ... (as suggested by SailingDog somewhere here awhile ago) ... great helpful people and very competitive pricing ... You might just give them a try ... (no affliation) and yes ... do it yourself ... I'm 63 and not the most mechanically inclined ... but it sure aids in learning ... hope this helps ... John   zibadun, 900 is out of the question. And why would you feel obliged to do business with someone who didn't give you a good faith quote on work you offered him? Your request for quote shouldn't be considered "bothering him" since he should be in business to be bothered by customers and happy for it. If you are not rerouting lines on deck and needing new hardware, running rigging should cost you not much more than the cost of the line. Splicing is easy with a little practice. I had never spliced double braid until last year. I picked up a couple of books and the splicing tools needed and practiced a bit, and now can put an eye splice in a line in just a few minutes. Also learned to back splice to terminate the ends of my running rigging. You should be able to re-use your halyard shackles if you are using the same size line you currently have. It's great to be self sufficient in every area you can be, and splicing running rigging is a skill you'll be happy to have. All the best, Will   I replaced all my running rigging w/ sta set custom ordered thru west marine for about 750. My boat is a 27 catalina and this included: main halyard w/ shackle jib halyard w/ shackle main sheet jib sheet travelers headsail furling line lazy jacks topping lift w/ shackle boom vang line   also, it takes about 5 minutes to replace a halyard, assuming the new one has the shackle and you dont have to go up the mast. I used twist tie wire that i removed the plastic coating from and "sewed" both ends together. Then i finished it w/ electrical tape. Worked great. 'Cept I got lazy and didnt bother sewing the lazy jack line since the halyards went so easy. I jerked hard on the wrong end of the line by accident and it did indeed separate. I had a guy from the marina reach the block with the line, which was about 10' off the deck with a ladder.   cost me about $500 to do Main, jib ,spinnaker halyards, topping lift and spinnaker pole topping lift, all with 3/8 Sta-Set line on my Alberg 30. I of course did this myself and lit took all of a morning. This also was buying 3 new shackles. I could never afford to sail if I had to pay someone repair simple things. I think you should try and tackle it.....Should be no problem!   Sta-set is cheap. are you asking for a replacement shackle? New splice in the line? Is it parallel core? If it's a double braid then it should be something like $60-$80 for the line. 70 for the splice 50ish for the install. So at the high end, it'll be $200.   Where are you located? I do rigging on the side, and could do it for less than 1/2 with better materials.   For future reference, replacing an existing halyard is a piece of cake. Quick and cheap. It takes all of 10 minutes and $5.00 worth of supplies. 1. Go to Home Depot and buy some super 33+ electrical tape- regular tape works but this stuff is 7 mil vinyl and stretchy. 2. Cut the shackle off the old halyard. 3. Butt the old halyard head end and the new halyard tail end together, wrap a couple of turns of tape tightly around the joint. 4. Spiral wrap (with gaps) from a foot above the joint to a foot below the joint. Wrap tightly. 5. Spiral wrap as above in the opposite direction. 6. Test by pulling as hard as you can. The joint shouldn't come apart as the spiral wrap compresses when you load it. 7. Pull halyard through mast. 8. Cut the tape off and you are done. Works every time- easy and very little skill. My suggestion for your halyard would be 8MM Novabraid Syntec from R&W Rope Warehouse. $.74/foot. Lower stretch than Sta=Set X for less money. I have no affiliation with anyone in the cordage business.   To be official I checked with my rigger and he said he would figure an hour plus materials. Sta-setx is about $1.00 a foot retail, the high-tech stuff can be 3 bucks or more so unless there is more to the job than we know it should be closer to $200 than to $500 for the standard cordage based on these calculations.   I used Sampson XLS Extra T and did the main and jib sheets, main, 2 jib and spin halyards, boom lift, ie 2nd main halyard for lack of better term. Probably spent 1200-1500 including new shackles and having Fisheries in Seattle do the eye splices at about $20 per. I have a 38' mast on my 30' boat! 50-100' jib, AS sheets, do not remember the main sheet or halyard off the top of my head, will swag halyards at about 70-80', inlcuding 10' for running back to cockpit along cabin top........I did the work myself other than the eye splices! Marty   all understood about the job cost. I have pointed the rigger to this thread and he can reply, if he likes. Thanks guys so much for your help, especially for tips on how to DIY.   ?             176.3K members Top Contributors this Month 121 IMAGES Sailboat Standing Rigging Diagram Exact Cost To Replace Standing Rigging in Australia Cal 2-46 Standing Rigging Replacement How Much Does It Cost to Replace Standing Sailing Rigging? Standing Rigging Replacement: Colligo Install & Test Sail Rigging Explained: Standing & Running (Sailboat Parts Explained VIDEO DYNEEMA [Part 1]: Replace Your Rigging The Near-Disaster that Could've Cost Us Everything How Much Does It Cost To BUY and REFIT a boat ?? [E28] Rigging for Yachts Headsail Upgrades- 3D sheeting low friction Restoring a 35 Year Old Sailboat ⛵️ #boatwork #boatbuilding #refit COMMENTS Average Cost to Replace Standing Rigging (with Examples) Small sailboat (up to 30 feet) A 25-foot sailboat may require replacement of the forestay, backstay, and upper shrouds, which could cost around $2,500 to $3,500, including the cost of the rigging and labor. For small sailboats, the cost of replacing standing rigging can range from $2,000 to $5,000. Standing Rigging Cost: DYI vs. Rigger Jan 5, 2019. #2. I replaced all of my standing rigging last summer on the H27. Total cost from riggingonly.com shipped to NC was $700. This included swaged on studs and eyes. It was very time consuming to measure and install all the rigging, especially running the forestay through the roller furler. Replacing Your Standing Rigging The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded ... How Much Does It Cost to Replace Standing Sailing Rigging? Learn how the size, condition, and material of your boat affect the cost of replacing your standing rigging. Find ballpark estimates for small, medium, and large boats, and tips on whether to do it yourself or hire a professional. Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging Learn how to inspect and replace your sailboat's standing rigging, whether it's wire or rod, and how often you should do it. Find out the factors that affect the life span and cost of your rigging, and the benefits and drawbacks of each type. Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the ... Inspecting, Maintaining and Replacing Standing Rigging Learn how to inspect, maintain and replace your sailboat's standing rigging, a crucial feature that can fail unexpectedly. Find out the signs of wear, corrosion and damage, and the cost and frequency of renewal. Average Sailboat Maintenance Costs (with 4 Examples) Standing rigging are the cables that support the mast. Click here for a full walkthrough with diagrams. If you need to replace the mast and boom, prepare to spend anywhere between $15,000 - $25,000. The cost of replacing the standing rigging is, on average, $4,000 every 10 years. Running rigging Replacing your Standing Rigging Please refer to our Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions for T terminals and studs. Label the individual stays. You may need them as an aide memoir when you come to fit the new standing rigging. Check and double-check your measurements and terminal fittings before ordering. Remember the old adage: "Measure twice, cut once". Option 2. Average Cost to Replace Running Rigging (with Examples) For a 30-foot sailboat, the cost to replace a main halyard can be around $500. The estimated cost of replacing your boat's running rigging with sheets is around $1,700-$2,000+. For an average 40-foot boat, you can expect to pay around $4,000 for wire rigging replacement, which may include control lines. The average maintenance cost for boats ... The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement. When should standing rigging be replaced? When and why do you change standing rigging. Easy answer "before it can fall down.". There is sailors knowledge based on observations and experiences that have formed the rules of thumb. 6-10 years for salt water exposed rigging and 15-25 years for fresh water rigging. Rough guides that depend on location of the boats sailing experience ... How to Replace Your Standing Rigging for Less Following are approximate costs per foot (in 2014) for standing rigging from several popular sources compared to the rigging company in my area. Popular online Catalina parts retailer: $4.00/ft. complete West Marine: $1.02/ft. cable only McMaster-Carr: $0.85/ft. cable only Local industrial rigger: $1.13/ft. complete. Standing Rigging on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know Short answer standing rigging on a sailboat: Standing rigging on a sailboat refers to fixed lines and cables that support the mast and help control its movement. It includes components like shrouds, stays, and forestays. These essential elements ensure stability and proper sail trim while underway. Understanding the Importance of Standing ... Replacing standing rigging The expensive part is paying for the labor to install the rigging. For reference the total cost of the wire and swaged end fittings for our 36' boat was only about $3500. We removed the rigging and sent it to Rigging Only in Fairhaven, MA. They duplicate the rigging and sent it back. We did not replace the turn buckle barrels or the deck studs. Standing Rigging Inspections, Maintenance and Replacement Standing Rigging Inspections - One part of sailboats and yachts that must be inspected, maintained, or even replaced when necessary is the standing rigging. ... Replacement. The most efficient and cost-effective way to replace the standing rigging to a yacht is to remove the entire mast and rigging from the yacht. This way you can do all the ... Replacing Standing Rigging on sailboats by Chuck Rose Use a little common sense and adapt the principles to the boat you are working on. I have now replaced the standing rigging on Lealea, V1860, twice. The first time only because a number of years had passed since the original rigging was set up and I figured that it was better to renew the rig before the mast came crashing down. Estimated Cost to Replace Standing Rigging And since the boat was launched 17 years ago and the rig had never (to my knowledge) been out of the boat, it seemed like a good time to renew all the standing rigging. Got two quotes from the only people I trust and the cost of the rigging came out to $1800 give or take a few pennies. The labor cost was very low since the mast was already down. Cost of Standing Rigging Repalcement Just recieved a quote for replacement of the standing rigging on my boat.She is an 04 Beneteau 361. I am in the Middle Chesapeake Bay area of Virginia and thought it would be competitive there, But I really dont have any experience in the cost of this work and have nothing to judge it with. Cost to unstep and restep while on the hard by my yard is around $2,400, cost to repalce the rigging is ... Exact Cost To Replace Standing Rigging in the UK The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a large sailboat. Replacing the standing rigging of large sailboats with a length of 40-50 feet ranges from £4,500 - £7,000, but in some, it can range from £10,000 to £30,000 or more. This cost can be affected by the complexity of the rigging system, the type of mast, and the number of shrouds ... Standing rigging replacement cost I asked them if they do replacements and the answer was that they farm the work out to North East Rigging Systems. I spoke to Kevin and he said replacement would be in the $1500-2000 range, depending on whether I went with swage or norseman fittings at the bottom. He recommended noresman. What cost standing rigging? LittleSister said: Re-rigging my 27 footer in 2017 cost me about £860 (though I was something of a captive audience, and didn't shop around - presumably both the boatyard and the riggers made money out of it). Masthead sloop, single spreader, 2 cap shrouds, 4 lowers, r/r forestay, single backstay. running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft. I had an idea to hire out running rigging replacement on a 30ft sloop, with nothing fancy, just a double braid polyester. The estimate turned out to be 1700-2000+. So I told the rigger to replace just the main halyard for now (and I will do the rest by myself). catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht