used sailboat rigging

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Sailing Totem
• Sailor & Galley
• Living Aboard
• Destinations
• Gear & Electronics
• Charter Resources
• Ultimate Boating Giveaway

Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging

• By Wendy Mitman Clarke
• Updated: March 23, 2020

Whether you’re buying a used sailboat that’s new to you or you’ve owned your boat for decades, the standing rigging is what keeps the mast in place, and thus requires particular attention. How do you know when it’s time to re-rig? There are some obvious answers to this one — for instance, if your wire rigging has broken strands or if it’s suffering from “candy-striping,” i.e., rust-colored streaks swirling down the wire. The latter may indicate two things: one, that it’s simply surface rust, which you should be able to polish off, or two, that as the wire was being manufactured, a strand might have picked up some contamination during the process and is compromised, which is cause for concern. A third visual indicator are cracks in swaged fittings, some of the most common end fittings for wire. Cracks are hard to see (use a magnifying glass), and sometimes marks that look like cracks can be left by the machine used to create the swage. Then there’s just age, and this factor as a reason to re-rig is more subject to a boat’s history than anything else.

“There’s a rule of thumb, but it varies rigger to rigger,” says Steve Madden, co-owner of M Yacht Services in Annapolis and the head of its M Rigging division. “My belief is that you should be replacing your sailboat’s standing rigging every 10 to 15 years.” But this time frame also is variable, depending on the boat’s purpose and use. For instance, for an offshore bluewater boat, Madden recommends 10 years, and for a serious coastal cruiser, more like 12.

“The biggest thing we like to have is the history of the boat: what kind of boat it is, how it’s been sailed and where has it been sailed,” says Jay Herman, owner of Annapolis Rigging. “That history will affect what kind of life you get out of your standing rigging.” Some insurance companies, he says, will require a re-rig if you’re purchasing a used boat that has standing rigging older than 15 years.

Either way, Jimmie Cockerill, co-owner of the Rigging Company in Annapolis, recommends that for a sailboat with wire rigging, the mast should be pulled and all fittings and wire visually inspected every five to six years. And although rod rigging may be able to last longer than wire, it too needs to be serviced every five to six years to get the most life out of it. Sticking to the 10-year rule, Madden says, means that for the most part, any corrosion or failure points will be eliminated with a re-rig.

How the rigging has been tuned is also part of a boat’s story. For instance, Madden says, he recently had a customer whose 46-foot cutter had a rigging failure at six years. The customer had had the boat re-rigged, and during a trip to the BVI, the new wire stretched. The owner didn’t adjust the rigging to compensate for the stretch for several seasons. “That was a case of not knowing that the worst thing you can do to standing rigging is have it loose on the leeward side,” he says. “Sailboat rigging very rarely fails from being overloaded. There’s such a safety margin in rigging. So you’re sailing offshore and you’re looking at the windward shroud that’s taut, and that’s not the one to worry about. It’s when the leeward side starts flopping around that you’re asking for trouble.”

Stainless steel has a finite number of cycles — essentially, movements, whether fore and aft or side to side. “The theory is that it can take 10 to 15 years of cycling, but this continual motion when it’s unloaded is what fatigues the wire,” Madden says. “There’s no real way of measuring that. Die testing won’t pick it up, and it’s rare that a wire will give you warning before breaking.”

So how often should standing rigging be replaced? For all of these reasons, most riggers agree that when your sailboat’s standing rigging approaches 15 years old, it’s a good time to consider replacing it.

Wire or Rod Sailboat Rigging?

Riggers say the question of whether to rig with wire or rod is usually fairly easily answered: Run what you brung. In other words, if your boat already has rod rigging, with all of the end fittings to terminate the rods both on deck and in or on the mast, then sticking with rod will ultimately be less expensive than making the switch to wire. Likewise, if you already have wire with fittings that accommodate your boat and mast, stick with wire. Aside from the relative cost differences between rod and wire (rod is more expensive), what also makes a switch pricey is having to significantly modify the mast to accept the different rigging.

Although rod rigging is more common on racing boats, many well-known cruising-boat builders, such as Valiant, Bristol, J/Boats and Hinckley, have rod-rigged models. The benefits of rod are less stretch, less weight, less windage, and arguably longer life than wire, because there’s less possibility for corrosion of the rod itself.

That said, some sailors prefer wire over rod for a number of reasons. First, it’s easier to fix in remote places and on your own. With a spare mechanical end fitting, wire and the proper tools, you can replace a stay pretty much anywhere. Similarly, it’s easier to find usable replacement parts far from busy ports. Wire rigging is generally less expensive and easier to handle. Finally, rod rigging requires a particular type of terminus — called a cold head — that can be fabricated only with a purpose-built machine, which only a rigging shop will have. You cannot use a mechanical fitting on rod rigging.

In the past, long-distance cruisers typically chose wire rigging with mechanical fittings for all of these reasons. They also would carry a piece of wire as long as the longest stay on the boat — coiled and stowed, which undeniably was sometimes easier said than done — as well as spare end fittings and the tools needed to replace a broken shroud or stay. Today, with the advent of super-strong synthetic line such as AmSteel and Dyneema, the need for that extra wire and gear is eliminated. For instance, the Rigging Company makes a spare-stay kit that can accommodate either wire or rod rigging repairs, Cockerill says. It has a synthetic stay with an eye splice, a toolless turnbuckle (the Handy Lock, made by C. Sherman Johnson), quick-release fast pins with an attached lanyard, several high-strength Dyneema loops, and even a heavy-duty zip tie to fish loops in and out of holes in a mast.

“The idea is you come on deck with this small canvas bag and make it happen,” Cockerill says. “Let’s say you ripped a tang out of the mast; you can use a Dyneema loop to create another attachment point. A smaller loop is a makeshift chainplate attachment — you can attach it to a neighboring chainplate and attach the stay to it. It’s good enough to get you to safety and someplace you can make a more permanent repair.” Riggers say very few sailors re-rig from wire to rod or the reverse, but if switching is on your mind, have a professional make a full assessment first.

There are so many variables in the system — types of end fittings, types of masts, types of attachment points — that each boat will have its own specific requirements that can affect cost. For that reason, it’s difficult to give an accurate estimate of the cost of making the switch, even for an average 40-footer.

End Fittings for Sailboat Rigging

All standing rigging, whether rod or wire, has to end in a fitting that attaches to the deck and mast. The three most commonly used types of attachments are swaged and mechanical fittings for wire, and cold heads for rod. Generally, end fittings fall into a few classes: studs, eyes, forks and hooks, each of which comes in a dizzying array of sizes and configurations. There are multiple combinations and variations: For instance, if your mast has double tangs, most likely the end fitting will be an eye — although it can be a marine eye or an aircraft eye, which differ primarily in shape. All rod rigging terminates in a cold head, which accommodates the end fitting or is encapsulated by the end fitting. This could be a marine eye, a marine fork, a T-head or a J-hook, among others.

A swaged fitting is a terminus that’s attached using a machine called a swager. It rolls the end fitting through two opposing dies and compresses the fitting on the wire so tightly that it can’t pull out. “The theory is that you’ve crushed it so tightly that all the wires inside have just merged into one solid piece of stainless,” Madden says. Swaging must be professionally done, and the result is extremely strong and generally has a long life. Top manufacturers of swaged fittings are Hayn Marine Rigging Products, Alexander Roberts and C. Sherman Johnson.

Mechanical fittings can be applied using a few common hand tools by the mechanically handy DIY sailor, which is one reason they’re popular. The two primary manufacturers of mechanical fittings presently are Sta-Lok and Petersen Stainless, which produces Hi-MOD. Both are located in the U.K., and the products are distributed in the U.S. through vendors like Hayn, West Marine, Defender, and local chandleries and riggers. Generally, they consist of either three or four parts (Sta-Lok has three; Hi-MOD has four), including a sleeve; a cone; in Hi-MOD’s case, a crown wheel; and the terminal (an eye, fork, stud, etc.). If you follow directions, they are fairly straightforward to install, although not especially easy. “The mechanical fasteners are great in that you can terminate and then look inside to be sure it’s formed correctly, so you do have a way of inspecting your work,” Madden says.

However, they generally cost more than a swaged fitting; Herman says while Hi-MOD’s newer mechanical fittings are “definitely more user-friendly to assemble, they’re twice the cost of a swaged fitting.” Some riggers will recommend swaged fittings for the mast end of the rigging and mechanical fittings at the deck level: Corrosion is less prevalent at the top of the mast, and you can more easily and regularly inspect mechanical fittings at deck level, where they’re frequently subjected to salt water

Should You Replace Your Sailboat’s Rigging Yourself?

So you’ve determined your sailboat’s standing rigging needs work. Do you hire a pro or go it alone? Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). By taking on the labor yourself, you’ll probably save as much as $2,000 on the re-rigging cost, he says. Madden says that cost isn’t linear, though; as you go up in size (a bigger boat needs heavier wire and larger fittings), you’ll spend more. He’d estimate more like $4,600 for a 40-foot boat, but all of these numbers depend on how much is involved: Are there furlers? What kind of end fittings? Are the chainplates sound? Depending on the answers to those questions and others, a professionally done re-rig for a 40-footer could be closer to $6,000 or more.

If you go DIY, you will be limited to mechanical end fittings unless you hire a rigger to swage your end fittings. The Rigging Company gears much of its sales to DIY sailors and is beginning an e-commerce site to cater specifically to handy individuals. But Cockerill says it quickly becomes evident whether an owner feels comfortable enough to do the work. “You should be mechanically inclined,” he says, “and the way to find that out is if I start talking all this technical jargon and you decide whether you’re suited to handle that at all.”

Additionally, a DIY sailor needs to do plenty of research, particularly when it comes to wire quality, which is something professional sailboat rigging companies watch like hawks. Although anyone can walk into a local chandlery and buy wire, that doesn’t mean the wire is of the highest quality. Marine-suitable stainless wire is called 316 grade, but even that doesn’t mean you’re necessarily getting high-quality wire. Much depends on where it is manufactured; Herman and other riggers say the best wire today is coming from South Korea through a manufacturer called KOS, making wire to military specifications. It’s imported and sold through distributors like Alps Wire Rope.

“We only sell guaranteed-content, guaranteed-process wire,” Herman says. “There are other wires out there that are cheaper, but they’re not guaranteed.”

As for sources of wire and fittings, there are many, including major chandleries and vendors, like West Marine and Defender, as well as some private riggers, like Annapolis Rigging and the Rigging Company, which will work with you to define what you need and help you source parts and materials.

One thing all the riggers I spoke with expressed emphatically was that stainless steel needs oxygen to create a fine film of oxidation that protects the metal. The fastest route to crevice corrosion is to cover the metal with plastic or leather turnbuckle covers or to coat the fittings in tape. Enough tape to cover a cotter pin suffices; otherwise, leave the metal open to the air. Likewise, if you are re-rigging your sailboatboat, use the opportunity to check your chainplates (easily the subject of another article entirely), since that’s one of the most common points of rigging failure.

Another factor in your DIY decision-making process is simple: peace of mind. “Most of my clients say to me without any prompting, ‘This is one area I feel should be done by a professional,’’’ Madden says. “You’re out there offshore and there’s a squall coming and you start worrying about the craziest of things, and you don’t want to have any unknowns.” That’s especially true of the system that keeps the mast and sails up.

Wendy Mitman Clarke is currently between passages. She’s the director of media relations at Washington College in Chestertown, Maryland, and she and her family continue to pine and plan for the day they can return to the cruising life.

• More: How To , mast , Refits , rig , rigging , sails and rigging , Upgrades
• More How To

Surviving the Storm: A Sailor’s Tale of Hurricane Lee

Best Practices for Boat-Show Shopping

Grease the Wheels of Your Boat: A Guide to Proper Lubrication

A Bowsprit Reborn: A DIY Renovation Story

Savoring Superior: A Great Lakes Cruise To Remember

Point Your Compass Due South, Bitter End Yacht Club Reopens October 23rd.

Pre-Owned: 1988 Hylas 47

Understanding Wind in the West Indies

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Sailing Gear for Kids

What’s the Best Sunscreen?

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

• Sailboat Reviews

DIY Survey Checklist for Used-Boat Buying

Before hiring a professional surveyor, look for these danger signs..

Boat buying is an exciting, maddening exercise that can test the tolerance of even the most patient sailor. Much of the maddening part has to do with trying to ferret out a boat’s problems before buying (and making them your own). Obviously, you should consult a reputable surveyor prior to purchase, but who can afford to have every promising boat surveyed?

The easiest way to narrow down the list of potential deals is by doing your own pre-survey inspection. Below are some of the major areas of boat inspection any buyer would want to become intimate with, as well as some common problems associated with each.

As the single most expensive piece of gear onboard, the engine deserves particular scrutiny. It is a hard lesson to learn that after purchasing that deal of a lifetime, the boat requires an engine rebuild or replacement.

How an engine looks can offer valuable clues about its overall condition. That’s not to say a shiny, seemingly new engine will be trouble free, but if it’s a real mess on the outside, chances are the owner hasn’t exactly been a stickler for regularly scheduled maintenance.

Start by looking for obvious problems such as leaks, excessive rust, broken or missing components, and other signs of neglect. For freshwater-cooled systems, check the coolant level and properties. Lack of antifreeze should raise red flags (due to possible leaks) as should coolant with a rusty color or an unusual amount of solids.

A lot can be told by simply pulling the dipstick and checking the oil. A slightly low level might be OK, but higher than normal levels could indicate trouble, particularly if milky or frothy; both are an indication that water, antifreeze, or transmission fluid is present, signs you could be facing anything from a blown gasket to a cracked block.

Rub a little engine oil between your fingers. If it feels abrasive or has a burnt odor, be concerned about bearing wear; however, it could also simply mean the oil hasn’t been changed regularly. Wipe the dipstick on a clean white cloth or napkin. Oil thats thick initially, but then starts to spread out over the cloth is an indication of fuel contamination.

Taking oil samples to a lab for testing is a more scientific way to analyze oil condition, but it’s normally most useful in tracking issues over the engine’s lifetime, rather than for spot-checking. Still, a one-shot oil analysis can show unusual wear and the presence of water, antifreeze or diesel fuel. Think of it as a blood test for the engine—it may not predict a heart attack but it can indicate the high cholesterol that could lead to engine failure.

As for transmissions and reduction gears, dark and sluggish fluid or oil with a burned smell may indicate drive cone problems and a costly rebuild in the near future. After running the engine in gear a bit, use the dipstick to get a transmission fluid sample. Put this on a piece of paper and inspect it under a bright light or in direct sunlight for metallic specks—a sign of significant transmission wear. Inserting a long, thin magnet (the kind mechanics use to retrieve dropped bolts) through the dipstick opening and sweeping the bottom of the gearbox may produce interesting results as well.

Note how difficult the engine is to start. Depending on whether it’s gas or diesel, hard starting could be a sign of weak batteries, faulty plugs or even a bad fuel pump.

Does it run smoothly at idle and under load, or does it idle unevenly and stall out when placed in gear? Rough running can be caused by anything from clogged fuel filters to compression problems, and engines idling at more than 800 rpm may have been intentionally set to idle high to mask problems.

Verify proper oil pressure and operating temperature while the engine is running. Low oil pressure could be due to anything from faulty oil pumps to cam bearing failure. High water temperatures may be something as simple as a bad impeller, but could also be caused by corroded manifolds or exhaust risers.

Finally, read the smoke signals the engine is sending. A well-maintained engine may smoke when initially cranked or while idling, but not when warmed up or under load. Smoke color can also provide an indication of problems (blue for burning oil, black for incomplete combustion, white for water vapor, etc.).

Bottom line: Remember that hour meters mean nothing (they can easily be swapped out by an unscrupulous seller) and that an owner should eagerly provide invoices if claiming overhauls or major work has been done. Engines are a big-ticket item, so always weigh the cost of repair or replacement versus walking away.

Water intrusion into cored decking likely causes more boat damage every year than sinkings, groundings and fires combined. Cored construction simply describes an inner and outer skin of fiberglass with some other material sandwiched between them. Most decks will be cored, typically with end-grain balsa, plywood or maybe one of the more high-tech foam variations.

The prime directive with cored construction is keeping water out. Wet wood coring can rot, which allows the cored deck to separate and drastically reduces its structural integrity. Long-term water exposure causes problems with foam-cored decks as well—core separation, freeze damage (due to expansion and contraction) and even disintegration in some cases.

Moisture intrusion into cored decking is typically caused by a combination of failed caulking and improper installation of deck-mounted hardware (cleats, lifeline stanchions, winches, etc.). Any penetration into a cored panel must be properly sealed to prevent water entry and the damage it can cause.

The first step (literally) in finding deck problems can be as simple as walking on the suspicious spots. Soft spots, oil-canning (flexing) or even water squishing from deck fittings are all indicators of a potentially expensive repair. Drips and brownish stains belowdecks are also common signs of water-soaked decks and rotting core.

Sound out the decks by tapping them with a small, plastic-headed hammer or the end of screwdriver handle. Sharp, crisp sounds while tapping are what you want, while dull thuds can be an indication of delamination. Moisture meters are also a helpful tool for sniffing out soggy decks—we reviewed our favorites here . Make sure to check out the updated moisture meter recommendations from our knowledgable commenters there as well.

Repair options are based on the core’s condition, which is determined by taking a core sample (ideally by drilling a small hole in an inconspicuous place from the inside) and looking for moisture or rot. If the coring is rotten or damaged, it must be replaced. If wet, but not damaged and there is no delamination, attempts to dry out the core can be made. Just keep in mind that it is very difficult to remove all water and that any remaining moisture will likely cause future problems. Core replacement is the only sure cure.

Bottom line: While repair costs will be directly related to the size of the delaminated area, even a minor core replacement is a time-consuming project. If faced with a large amount of deck repair, move on to the next boat or be prepared to expend a significant amount of time, money, and effort to make it right.

STANDING RIGGING

Most sailors immediately think wire when they hear the term standing rigging, but that’s only one part of the story. Your pre-survey inspection should encompass several different components, from chainplates and turnbuckles to cotter pins and terminal ends. Here are three primary standing rigging components along with possible issues to watch out for.

Wire : Broken yarns or strands (aka fishhooks) are a clear indication that rigging wire is nearing the end of its service life, even if the other strands appear good. You can check for broken strands by wrapping toilet paper around the wire and carefully running it up and down while looking for snags or shredding of the paper.

Nicks and scratches that affect multiple strands or one strand deeply should also be noted as possible cause for replacement, as should kinks, flat spots, proud strands and corrosion, particularly where the wire enters a swage fitting.

Floppy shrouds or stays should also be inspected to determine the cause of the looseness, which can indicate anything from a much-needed rig tune-up to a failed mast step.

Terminal fittings : Of the various wire terminal fittings found on sailboats, swage fittings are the most common source of terminal failures.

Each should be checked carefully for signs of fatigue, proud strands (a common indication of broken strands in the swage), cracks and corrosion. A small, handheld magnifying glass can be very helpful during this inspection. Pay close attention to lower terminals, which are particularly susceptible to corrosion as a result of salt-laden water running down the wire and inside the fitting.

Bent or banana-shaped fittings (the result of improper compression of the fitting onto the wire) are also items of concern that will need to be addressed.

Chainplates : Chainplates should be checked carefully for issues such as movement, rust, cracks, deformation of the clevis pin hole and improper lead angle. Chainplates that penetrate the deck will often leak (due to movement and/or caulking failure), and the damage this causes, both to the interior of the vessel and the chainplate itself, can be significant.

Where chainplates are bolted to a bulkhead or other interior structure, look for discoloration, delamination and rot due to water intrusion. Chainplates can also be compromised due to crevice corrosion, even though the metal above and below the deck appears to be in excellent condition. Crevice corrosion occurs when stainless steel is continually exposed to stagnant, anaerobic water, such as that found in a saturated wood or cored deck. This is one reason why chainplates that are glassed in or otherwise inaccessible for routine inspection are undesirable.

Bottom line : While the life expectancy of wire rigging is determined by a myriad of factors (where the vessel is located, type of stainless, amount of use, etc.), the general rule of thumb is that it should be replaced every eight to ten years, sooner if extenuating circumstances such as offshore passages, extended cruising, racing, etc, are in the mix. While an owner may offer assurances or hazy recollections of rigging replacement, unless these improvements are properly documented, the best policy is to assume the rigging is original and plan your purchase strategy accordingly.

While steel hulls rust and wood hulls rot, blisters are what make a fiberglass boat owner’s hair stand on end. The Cliffs Notes version of how blisters form is simple: Water-soluble chemicals inside the laminate exert an osmotic pull on water molecules outside the hull, drawing them through the gelcoat. Once inside, the water molecules and soluble chemicals join to create a solution with larger molecules that are unable to pass back though the gelcoat. As water molecules continue to enter, pressure increases to the point that the gelcoat is pushed outward, forming a blister.

Some makes and models seem to be more susceptible to blistering than others (presumably due to factors ranging from resins used to layup schedules), but all fiberglass boats are at some risk. Location also plays a factor in some cases (i.e. relocating a vessel from cool to tropical waters, fresh to salt, etc).

The best time to spot blisters is just after the boat is hauled, preferably after the hull has been power washed and is still wet. Blisters can depressurize in a matter of hours once the vessel is hauled (minutes in some cases), making them all but impossible to spot (something to consider if inspecting a boat thats been hauled for a while).

Blisters will typically appear as circular bumps or dome-like protrusions while sighting along the hull. Sometimes water trapped between the bottom paint and gelcoat forms bumps that can be mistaken for blisters. With the owners permission, try pressing a suspected blister with a rubber gloved finger (wear goggles, as they can be under considerable pressure). If the fluid that comes out has a chemical smell, chances are it’s a blister.

Although hull blisters are often viewed with much dread, finding one or two blisters on an older vessel is no more serious than the occasional gouge to the hull. In these cases, spot treatment of individual blisters as they occur (grinding out to good material, barrier coating, and filling in and fairing with a suitable epoxy mixture) will normally suffice.

Far worse is the dreaded pimple rash or boat pox, where the entire bottom is covered with hundreds or thousands of blisters. Repairs in this case can involve removal of the entire gelcoat and the outermost skin-out mat to reach good laminate, then adding additional laminate to return the hull to original strength. It’s an expensive repair that many yards will gladly perform, but rarely guarantee will prevent future blister formation.

Bottom line: Although rarely structurally significant, blisters may very well have a negative impact on a vessels resale value, depending on the knowledge and perceptions of a potential buyer.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

After years of additions, removals, misguided MacGyver-like installations, and overall abuse, probably no other system harbors greater potential for starting a fire on a used boat than the electrical system. This is just one reason both DC and AC systems deserve a thorough inspection.

Start with the batteries, which should be located in liquid tight / acid-proof containers (to contain electrolyte spills) and secured against movement (no more than one inch in any direction). Be on the lookout for equipment hard-wired without any fuse directly to the battery (a potential fire hazard) as well as crowded post syndrome (more than four wires connected to a single battery post).

Verify AC wiring is multi-strand, marine grade wire, not residential style, solid strand wire (aka ROMEX). Solid wire is not recommended for use onboard, as it is susceptible to breakage due to vibration. Your inspection should also verify that AC outlets located in the galley, head, machinery spaces, and on all weather decks are protected with ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI), another important safety requirement.

Check the condition of wire runs for both AC and DC systems. They should be neat, well organized and labeled. Problems include unsupported wires, dead ends (cut wires no longer in use), corrosion and lack of chafe protection (especially where wires pass through a bulkhead).

You’ll also want to keep an eye out for electrical tape joints and household twist-on type connectors, two sure signs that a novice has been doing a little weekend electrical work.

Bottom line: If the electrical systems are maxed out or rife with problems, play it safe by getting an estimate to make it right from a competent marine electrician before negotiating with the owner.

The more you know about potential problems and how to spot them, the more comfortable and productive your boat-buying experience will be. While the above inspection list can’t replace the practiced eye of a professional marine surveyor, it can help the average person make an informed decision on whether to pass or pursue the purchase of that potential dream boat.

• Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
• National Association of Marine Surveyors
• “Inspecting the Aging Sailboat,” by Don Casey

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

You made a great point when you said that I should be on the lookout for any boats with some amateurishly fixed wiring. What with how old some used boats can be someone may have thought it better to fix old electrical components themselves rather than hire a professional which could be a potential hazard. I’m buying a boat for our family trips, and since kids will often be on board I wouldn’t want any wiring to stick out and potentially harm them or even worse, start a fire on the boat. Hopefully, I can find a good dealer that will provide me with quality used boats for sale where I won’t have to worry about matters like that.

Thanks for the informative article, Darrell.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review

Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie

Hans Christian 41T – Boat Review

Seven dead after superyacht sinks off Sicily. Was the crew at...

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

(001) 401-739-1140 -- (001) 401-739-1149 ---

Rigging - Turnbuckles , Toggles , Wire & Rod Components, Norseman Cones & Fittings.

Furling Systems - Systems and replacement parts from a variety of Manufacturers.

Traveller Systems - Adjustable Track Systems for Mainsheet and other applications.

Sailboat Hardware - Rope Clutches, Blocks, Track & Fittings, Winches, etc.

Custom Parts - Custom items, or those out of production or otherwise unavailable.

Consultation - Special projects, research, or information not detailed on-site.

Copyright   1996 - 2024,  Rig-Rite, Inc.        Disclaimer          Web Site maintained by The WATER Group

JIB FURLING GEAR

• CDI Flexible
• Furling Accessories
• Racing Foils
• Whisker and Spinnaker

MAIN SAIL FURLING and REEFING

• Boom Furlers
• Reefing and LazyJacks

MAIN SAIL TRACK SYSTEMS

Standing rigging.

• Swage Terminals and Toggles
• Turnbuckles
• Backstay Adjusters
• Inner Forestay Tools...
• Miscellaneous Hardware
• Measuring Guide
• Hardware and Wire

RUNNING RIGGING

• Rope Clutches
• Cam and Standard Cleats
• Pad Eyes, Eye Straps
• Rachet, Snatch, Wire
• Halyard Lift
• Accessories
• rigid vangs
• tackle vangs

GROUND TACKLE

Mast climbing.

• ATN Top Climber

RADAR MOUNTS AND REFLECTORS

Welcome to rigging only.

Our www.riggingandhardware.com shop on line site is now open for business. We now have most manufacture's parts up and running. Pricing is current on the riggingandhardware.com site. Pictures and selection guides are rather lacking at this time but we are working on them and will be loading more product and manufacturers asap. As always, don't hesitate to contact us with any questions or to place an order at [email protected] or call (508) 992-0434.

Our Mission

• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for sailboat standing rigging and architectural wire projects. Larger sizes are available.
• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for standing rigging and architectural projects. Larger sizes are available.
• Metric wire and swage fittings are available for standing rigging applications. We are able to provide swaged standing rigging assemblies as well as mechanical terminals (assembled or you assemble) to meet your needs at an affordable cost. Current stock is 8-10-12mm. Note the bulk of these fittings will have imperial pin and thread dimensions.

Return Policy

Customer comments.

• We thank you and your staff for your help and advise. We are enjoying sailing more with the furler. M.&R. G., Chicago
• All arrived safely and perfectly on time. The lifelines are almost too pretty to put on the boat and it's a damn pretty boat. The shrouds and backstay are superb and a perfect fit. If anyone ever wants a referral about Rigging Only tell them to contact me. R. A. , Curator, N. C.
• Just a quick note to tell you how grateful I am. The order was waiting for me when I arrived as promised. All the parts were of top quality and the prices were more than reasonable. I am recommending the services and products of Rigging Only to all my fellow charter captains of the Virgin Islands Charter League. Capt. G. F. USVI
• Due to your excellent quality, service, and prices on my previous order I would like to get a price quote and estimated turnaround time for replacing my current standing rigging... B. S. Gurnee, IL.
• Got them on time! Many Thanks! C. S. Lacombe, LA

Contact Information

Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

How To Live On a Boat For Free: How I'd Do It

How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things

• Daily Deals
• Brand Outlet
• Help & Contact

• Watchlist Expand Watch List Loading... Sign in to see your user information
• Recently Viewed
• Bids/Offers
• Purchase History
• Saved Searches
• Saved Sellers
• My Collection
• Expand Cart Loading... Something went wrong. View cart for details.

There seems to be a problem serving the request at this time

Sailing Hardware & Gear

Shop by category, additional resources, shop by brand.

• Time: ending soonest
• Time: newly listed
• Price + Shipping: lowest first
• Price + Shipping: highest first
• Distance: nearest first
• Gallery View

28,098 Results

• Barton Marine
• C. Sherman Johnson
• New England Ropes
• All Listings filter applied
• All Filters

Harken Classic Series Size 32 Self Tailing 2 speed winch set, Anodized Aluminum

Captain currey / seaman's mk-1 navy deck knife w/ leather sheath, genuine us navy mark 1 deck knife w/ sheath + lifetime warranty + made in usa, attwood 11210-1 marine keel roller : 4 inch, boat trailer keel roller, rubber, new listing lewmar 72 mm htx double block - swivel, 1" t-track midship adjustable cleat 6" long, sailboat tiller cover,u-pick color & length sunbrella best quality on ebay, harken 280 offshore cam-matic cleat, harken sailing hardware * choose * micro block 16mm 29mm single double triple, usa 1/4" x 50' bungee cord shock cord bungie cord marine grade stretch cord blk, 100 ft x 3/32" black&white shock cord (bungee) dac.cover(perfect for tent poles), 6 sail ties - sail tie - sail ties 48" x 1"polypropylene mainsail 6 sail ties, marine boat bolt-on stainless steel lashing ring d-ring anchor tie down 1/2".

• Sellers with highest buyer ratings
• Returns, money back
• Ships in a business day with tracking

Spinnaker Sail Schurr

Viadana 4:1 25mm / 1" micro mainsheet system boom vang 25' 6mm 1/4", harken 3226 - 57 mm aluminum black magic low load block - swivel, 5 pc swage eye terminal end for 1/8" wire rope solid stainless steel 316 grade, 4 pack 2-3/4" boat stainless steel swivel eye snap shackle bail rigging sailing, 2 x 25mm nylon sheave pulley block w removable pin bracket 316 stainless steel, harken micro cam-matic cleat - fishing, viadana black nylon/delrin® replacement block sheave 45mm up to10mm / 3/8" line, hobie 16 14 teflon ptfe mast base chip pivot bearing 40mm 1.58" diameter 1/16, viadana aisi 316 stainless steel clevis pin stamped dee (d) shackle 5mm, wireless winch remote control kit receiver 12v 150ft twin switch handset easy us, 5/16” us anchor shackle for boat marine chain rigging 316 stainless steel, sea dog oarlock bushing, 1/2", black, polypropylene, hobie cat 14 & 16 teflon mast step bearing chip - 3 pc. new (228580) & (228600), waxed sail twine / whipping & sewing thread - 1/4 pound bulk spool natural, viadana 4:1 57mm / 2 1/4" fiddle block mainsheet system boom vang 60' 12mm 1/2", lewmar tripple rope clutch 12 - 14mm brand new, usa 1/2" x 100' bungee cord shock cord bungie cord marine grade stretch cord blk, mainsail cover catalina 22 pacific blue fits boom 9.5 to 10 feet, hobie 14 / hobie 16 standard lower rudder casting (used), 5/16” jaw jaw closed body turnbuckle 8mm 316 stainless steel rigging screw, pair of 2 hobie 14/16/17/18 drain plug housings & screws (new), vintage bronze car slide sheave track, 1/4" x 100' bungee cord shock cord bungie cord marine grade stretch cord blk usa, 316 stainless steel spring clip with eye carabiner 3/16" (s0121-0050), stainless steel crane nova lift 1" rails (220 lbs. max lift) - huge savings, barient #22 stainless winch, 1-1/2" screw pin anchor shackle galvanized steel drop forged 34000lbs d ring bow, hobie rudder casting delrin screw, new premium amf alcort sunfish sailboat cockpit sticker, decal, logo waterproof, sunfish sailboat used parts, antique bronze boat stanchion 1-1/4" pipe with eye and bronze base mount (5), used schaefer halyard lift turning blocks, 60mm wheel, package of 10 brand new stainless steel cotter rings for hobie cats (ring dings), sailboat exit block 3/8", 2pcs cam cleat ball bearing marine boat fast entry rope cam cleat wire fairlead, marine boat stainless steel t316 2-3/8" rectangle angle plate rigging lifting, harken 22mm micro block compact lightweight - 224, davis round sail track stop round 0.50" dia. x 0.875" - 2350, 10-pack marine block pulley 316 stainless steel nylon sheave sailing kayak boat, sail chafe protector (4-pack) sail roller, ronstan rf3133 battlestick: universal joint for ultimate control, composite k ball bearing fast entry rope cam cleat marine boat sailing hardware, the ultimate cranker will make all you winches electric, new listing hobie back sack backpack new, pair: lewmar 40 two speed winches, vintage bronze merriman no 2 sailboat ratchet winch tensioner pulley crank 01c28, best selling, sailing hardware and gear.

While recreational sailors might live for the pure adrenaline rush that accompanies flying a hull or stemming the tide out on the open water, true sailing enthusiasts derive just as much pleasure from maintaining and adjusting their boats. Sooner or later, every sail boater will want to tune the rigging or replace a few cleats and pins, and on occasion, boat repairs will need to be made miles from port. A knowledgeable sailor can prepare for many eventualities in advance by keeping essential hardware and the most critical sailing gear at the ready.

Sailing yachts comprise a myriad of hardworking parts. Whether you have an immediate need or want to purchase a few spare parts to have around just in case, you may be wondering how to best make your selections with so many options available. These simple suggestions can help you take stock of your needs up front:

• Conduct an inspection: A visual stem-to-stern inspection of your sailboat may expose worn or broken blocks, cleats, shackles, pins, rigging, and other fittings. If the condition of your hardware is questionable, plan to replace it or procure the appropriate parts to carry along on your sailing excursions.
• Determine the correct size: From cams and cleats to spinnaker poles and shackles, sailboat hardware and accessories are available in a range of sizes to fit seagoing vessels of every description. As a general rule, the size of your boat will determine the size of the line that you use, and the size of your line will determine the minimum size of your blocks, cleats, shackles, and many other parts.
• Choose a material: Some hardware is available in a variety of materials, including wood, stainless steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, and nylon. In some instances, choice of material is a matter of personal preference; in others, your choice may be dictated by whether you sail on fresh or salt water, which is corrosive.

A well-stocked toolbox is a must-have piece of equipment whenever you head out to sail, and a two- or three-tool rigging knife is invaluable. Weather-resistant clothing, life jackets, a marine light, and flares are other gear that no sailboat should cast off without. A ship-to-shore radio, extra line, extra hardware, and an outboard motor in good working condition are also high on most sailors' lists.

Sailing aficionados with some experience will appreciate one of the dozens of clever gadgets and accessories that are designed to make life under the sail easier and more enjoyable, including:

• Mast-climbing systems
• Performance sailing gear
• Logo decals and stickers
• Short-fingered gloves
• Galley ware
• Masthead streamers and flags

Browse by Brand

• Alexander Roberts
• FSE Robline
• Tylaska Marine Hardware

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 39a0cbcc-768c-11ef-bfe0-8109aff56a1f

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

• Sail Accessories
• Storm Sails
• MARINE CLEARANCE
• Optiparts hardware & Opti Covers
• Sunfish Boat Covers and boat parts
• Laser Boat Covers and Boat Parts
• Other One Design Covers and Boat Parts
• 420 and FJ Boat Covers & Parts
• Catalina 310 & 320 Sails -New – In Stock
• Catalina Capri 22 Sails – Standard- In Stock
• Coronado 15 Sails – New
• Catalina 400 Sails – New
• Catalina 34 New Sails – In Stock – Standard and Tall Rig
• Catalina Wave Sail
• Catalina Capri 22 Sails -Tall Rig – In Stock
• Catalina 440, 470 and 50 Sails – New & Used
• New Catalina Furling Mainsails
• Catalina 387 – 380 – 390 New Sails
• Catalina Capri 26 and Catalina 27 – New Sails – In Stock
• Kayak Accessories
• Sailing Books
• GIFTS under $25
• Racing Gadgets
• Shackles & Snap Shackles
• Canvas Covers
• Dollies, Dolly Parts, Roof Racks
• Sailing Apparel and Gear

Come Visit Our New Location

957 n. lime ave, sarasota, fl  34237, largest selection of used sails in the southeast, new custom sails * sail repairs * rigging * canvas, thousands of sails in stock.

Masthead offers thousands of used sail choices; in stock at our location and ready to ship. All of our sails have been professionally evaluated by one of our sailmakers. Our sails come to you ready to use without the need for repairs. We offer modifications and alterations to match your requirements through our  in-house, full service sail loft.

To locate a sail on our website, go to our  USED SAIL SEARCH TOOL

CHOOSE a sail type and enter your approximate luff dimension in the search box:

• STORM SAILS

Don’t have your rig dimensions, no problem. Click here to search by boat:  RIG DIMENSIONS TABLE .

If you prefer for us to assist you in finding the right sail, please call 727-327-5361 or email:  [email protected]

OR fill out our contact form here and we’ll contact you:  CONTACT FORM .

Used & Clearance

Get a great deal on new and used marine hardware and accessories.

The RS Cat 16 XL is a class leading Roto-molded high performance beach cat with a modern hull shape. Can easily be single-handed or sail with a family crew. Exceptionally strong, simple and fast to assemble. Main and Jib standard with asymmetrical spinnaker and single trapeze.

Catalina 22 Sport is our most popular boat. The Retractable Keel "swing keel" draws 1' 8" with the keel up and 5' with the keel down "It sails with the keel up or down". The new Catalina 22 Sport is the perfect west coast of Florida weekend cruiser or daysailor [..]

The RS Aero is a 21st Century modern single-handed sailboat, much like the Laser was 47 years ago. The Hull weighs 66 lbs. and total sailing weight at 88 lbs. RS's philosophy has always been to prioritize Ultra-Light weight, Performance and Practically in order to produce a simple, [...]

Can’t find what you need, use our online contact form or call us Call: 727-327-5361 .

Parts of a Sailboat Rigging: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 6, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer: Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

The sailboat rigging consists of various components essential for controlling and supporting the sails. Key parts include the mast, boom, shrouds, forestay, backstay, halyards, and sheets.

Understanding the Basics: A Comprehensive Overview of the Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Title: Understanding the Basics: A Comprehensive Overview of the Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Introduction: Sailboats have been a symbol of freedom and adventure for centuries. Whether you are an avid sailor or an aspiring skipper, understanding the various components that make up a sailboat rigging is essential. In this insightful guide, we will dive into the world of sailboat rigging, unraveling its intricacies while shedding light on its importance and functionality. So tighten your mainsails and let’s set sail on this knowledge-packed journey!

1. Mast: The mast is the vertical spar that supports the sails . It provides structural integrity to the entire rigging system and enables harnessing wind power effectively. Constructed from materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber, modern masts are designed to be lightweight yet robust enough to withstand varying weather conditions .

2. Standing Rigging: The standing rigging refers to all fixed parts that support the mast. This includes stays (fore, back, and jumper) which run between the masthead and various points on the hull or deck, like chainplates or tangs. Shrouds (cap shrouds, intermediate shrouds) help counteract lateral forces by providing lateral support to prevent excessive sideward movement of the mast.

3. Running Rigging: Unlike standing rigging, running rigging comprises lines that control sails’ deployment and trim dynamically during sailing maneuvers . The halyard raises or lowers a sail along its respective track within the mast groove while keeping it securely fastened in place when needed.

4. Sails: Of course, we can’t discuss sailboat rigging without mentioning sails themselves! They are like wings for your boat – converting wind energy into forward motion efficiently . Main sails typically attach through slides onto a mast track using luff cars for easy hoisting and lowering during different conditions.

5. Boom: The boom plays a crucial role in sail control , as it connects the aft end of the mainsail to the mast. By controlling the angle of the boom, sailors can adjust the shape and trim of the main sail for optimum performance against varying wind conditions.

6. Spreader: Spreader arms are horizontal poles extending from some point up the mast’s length. They serve two purposes: keeping shrouds apart to improve sail shape and reducing compressive loads on the rigging by forcing them away from each other.

7. Turnbuckles: Turnbuckles are adjustable devices used to tension standing rigging elements such as shrouds and stays. These fittings allow sailors to fine-tune rigging tensions while maximizing stability and overall performance based on prevailing weather conditions.

8. Winches: Winches are mechanical devices primarily used for easing or trimming running rigging lines under high loads. With a simple rotation, winches convert human effort into mechanical advantage, allowing efficient handling of lines for adjusting sails in different situations.

Conclusion: Understanding your sailboat rigging is not just essential for safe sailing but also for harnessing its maximum potential during every voyage. From deciphering various components like masts, standing and running rigging, booms, spreaders, turnbuckles, and winches – each element plays a crucial role in ensuring a smooth sailing experience. So next time you find yourself out on open waters, take a moment to appreciate these intricate systems that keep you powered by nothing but wind!

Step by Step Guide: How to Properly Assemble and Install the Various Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Welcome fellow sailors and enthusiasts! Today, we are diving into the intricate world of sailboat rigging. Whether you are an experienced sailor or a newcomer to the sailing community, understanding how to properly assemble and install the various parts of a sailboat rig is essential for smooth and safe sailing. So, grab your tools and let’s get started on this step-by-step guide !

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials Before embarking on this rigging journey, it’s crucial to have all your tools and materials ready. Here is a list of essentials you’ll need:

– Stainless steel wire rigging – Turnbuckles – Fittings and hardware such as clevis pins, shackles, and thimbles – Measuring tape or ruler – Wire cutters – Crimping tool or swaging machine (depending on your preference) – Electric drill (if required) – Lubricant or anti-seize compound

Make sure you have everything organized before starting. A well-prepared sailor is a successful one!

Step 2: Inspect Existing Rigging (If Applicable) If you own a used boat or are replacing old rigging, take some time to inspect the current setup. Look out for any signs of wear, frayed wires, or damaged fittings. It’s crucial to address these issues before proceeding with installation as they can compromise safety at sea.

Step 3: Measure Twice; Cut Once! Now that everything is set up let’s proceed by measuring the length needed for each piece of wire rigging carefully. Tinier inaccuracies in measurement during this step can lead to major inconveniences later.

Ensure you give yourself ample space for adjusting tension using turnbuckles. Pro-tip: It’s better to cut the wire slightly longer than needed rather than cutting it too short!

Step 4: Attach Fittings – The Devil Lies in Details Once you have measured and cut the rigging wire, let’s start attaching the fittings. This is where precision comes into play. Begin with inserting thimbles onto each end of the wires to avoid kinks or fraying. Next, connect the turnbuckles and fittings according to your sailboat’s specific rigging plan.

Step 5: Tension Matters Now that you have installed all the necessary fittings, it’s time to tension the rigging. This step requires a bit of finesse as over-tightening can damage equipment, while under-tightening can compromise performance.

Using a tension gauge, ensure that you achieve optimal tension on all parts of your sailboat’s rigging. It might take some trial and error, but finding that sweet spot is worth it!

Step 6: Inspect and Lubricate Before setting sail , always double-check everything! Look for any loose fittings or signs of wear once again. You wouldn’t want to go through these steps all over again out in the middle of nowhere!

Additionally, apply lubricant or anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation of turnbuckles and other moving parts.

And there you have it – a professionally and properly assembled sailboat rigging! Sit back for a minute or two to appreciate your workmanship before feeling that excitement rush through as you’ll soon set sail smoothly onto those horizon-stretching waters.

Remember, practice makes perfect when it comes to mastering this skill. Over time, you’ll develop your own techniques and become a maestro at sailboat rigging assembly. Happy sailing!

Top Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Rigging Components Answered

Are you new to sailing or considering purchasing a sailboat? No matter your experience level, understanding the rigging components of a sailboat is crucial for safe and successful navigation on the water. In this blog post, we aim to answer some of the top frequently asked questions about sailboat rigging components. So, let’s dive in!

1. What are sailboat rigging components? Sailboat rigging components refer to the various parts and systems that help support and control the sails on a sailboat. These components include standing rigging (the fixed parts) and running rigging (lines that can be adjusted). Some common examples of rigging components are the mast, boom, shrouds, stays, halyards, sheets, and blocks.

2. What is the purpose of each rigging component? Each component serves a specific purpose in sailing . The mast supports the sails and provides leverage for controlling their shape. The boom holds down the bottom of the mainsail and allows adjustment for different points of sail . Shrouds provide lateral support to prevent excessive side-to-side movement of the mast. Stays offer fore-and-aft support to keep the mast from leaning too far forward or backward. Halyards raise and lower sails while sheets control their angle in relation to wind direction.

3. How often should I inspect my sailboat’s rigging ? Regular inspection is crucial for ensuring your safety on the water . We recommend conducting visual inspections before every sailing trip and more thorough inspections at least once a year or per manufacturer recommendations. Look out for any signs of wear, corrosion, loose fittings, or frayed lines that may indicate potential issues.

4. Can I replace my own rigging components? While minor repairs or adjustments can typically be done by boat owners with some knowledge and experience, replacing major rigging components should ideally be done by professionals who specialize in sailboat rigging services. They have the expertise and equipment necessary to properly install and tension components, ensuring your safety.

5. How long do sailboat rigging components typically last? The lifespan of rigging components depends on various factors such as usage, maintenance, and exposure to environmental conditions. Stainless steel stays can last for 10-15 years or longer with regular inspections and maintenance, while synthetic running rigging (such as ropes made from high-performance fibers) may have a shorter lifespan of 3-5 years.

6. Are there any safety tips related to sailboat rigging? Absolutely! Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment when working with or near rigging components. Take care not to overload or overstress the rig by correctly tensioning lines within manufacturer specifications . Avoid standing under or in close proximity to the mast while raising or lowering it, as it can be dangerous if it accidentally drops.

7. What are some common signs of rigging failure? Rigging failures can be catastrophic, so being able to identify potential issues is vital. Look out for visible cracks, rust, elongation, broken strands on wires, loose fittings, excessive wear on ropes, or unusual noises while sailing. Any of these signs should prompt an immediate inspection and possible replacement of affected components.

In conclusion, understanding sailboat rigging components is crucial for any sailor looking to navigate safely on the water. By familiarizing yourself with these frequently asked questions and following proper inspection and maintenance practices, you’ll enjoy a smooth sailing experience while prioritizing your safety at all times!

Exploring the Essential Components: An In-Depth Look at Key Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Sailing is a thrilling and age-old activity that has fascinated adventurers and seafarers for centuries. At the heart of every sailing vessel lies its rigging, which is a complex system of ropes, wires, and equipment that hold the sails in place and allows for precise control over the boat’s movement. In this blog post, we will take an in-depth look at the key components of a sailboat rigging to understand their importance and how they contribute to the overall sailing experience.

Mast: The backbone of any sailboat rigging is its mast. This tall vertical structure supports the sails and provides stability to the vessel . Made from materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber, masts are designed to withstand strong winds and carry considerable loads. They come in various shapes and sizes depending on the type of boat and intended use.

Boom: Attached horizontally towards the bottom of the mast, the boom serves as a critical component in controlling the position of the mainsail – typically the largest sail on board. Acting as an extension of the mast, it allows for adjustments in sail trim by pivoting up or down.

Shrouds: These sturdy wire cables are attached to either side of the mast at multiple levels, forming a crucial part of sailboat rigging’s structural integrity. Shrouds keep the mast upright by counteracting lateral forces created by wind pressure on sails . Adjustable tensioning systems enable sailors to fine-tune shroud tension according to prevailing conditions.

Stay: Similar to shrouds but located further forward on most boats, stays provide additional support for maintaining mast stability. Fore-stay runs from top-to-bow while back-stays run from top-to-aft; together they prevent excessive forward or aft bending movements during intense wind pressures.

Turnbuckles: Within sailboat rigging systems lie turnbuckles – mechanical devices used for adjusting tension in wires or ropes like shrouds or stays. These clever devices simplify the task of tightening or loosening rigging components, enabling sailors to optimize sail shape and boat performance with ease.

Halyards: Essential for hoisting sails up and down, halyards are ropes used to control the vertical movement of the sails . They are typically operated through winches, which increase mechanical advantage and make raising and lowering large sails manageable.

Blocks: Also known as pulleys, these simple yet crucial devices help redirect the path of ropes within a sailboat rigging system. Blocks increase mechanical advantage by changing the direction of applied force, making it easier for sailors to control different aspects such as sail trim or adjusting tension.

Running Rigging vs Standing Rigging: Sailboat rigging can be classified into two main categories – running rigging and standing rigging. Running rigging refers to all movable lines and ropes that control sail position, while standing rigging encompasses all stationary components that give structure to the mast. Both elements work in harmony to ensure efficient maneuverability and safety at sea .

Understanding these key components within a sailboat’s rigging is essential for any aspiring sailor or seasoned mariner alike. It not only allows them to appreciate how these intricately designed systems function together but also helps enhance their sailing skills by leveraging each component’s unique role.

So next time you set foot on a sailboat or watch one glide gracefully across the water, take a moment to admire the finely tuned rigging – a mesmerizing web of interconnected parts that enable humans to harness the power of wind and embark on unforgettable nautical adventures.

The Crucial Role of Each Part: Unveiling the Functionality and Importance of Sailboat Rigging Components

Sailboat rigging components may seem simple and insignificant at first glance, but anyone who has sailed knows just how crucial each part is to the overall functionality and performance of a sailboat. From the mast to the shrouds, every component plays a vital role in ensuring safe navigation, efficient sailing, and maximum performance on the water.

One of the most essential parts of any sailboat rigging system is the mast. Serving as the backbone of the entire structure, the mast provides vertical stability and supports various sails that catch the wind . The mast’s height and shape significantly impact a boat’s performance, affecting not only its speed but also its ability to handle different wind conditions. A sturdy mast ensures that forces are properly distributed throughout the rigging system, preventing excessive strain or potential failure.

Connected to both sides of the mast are what are known as shrouds. These cables or wires act as primary support structures for restraining lateral movement and maintaining balance in heavy winds. Shrouds come in different sizes and tensions depending on factors such as sail size and boat length. Proper tensioning of shrouds is crucial for maintaining structural integrity and minimizing flexing under intense force.

Another integral part is the forestay – a cable or wire running from near or at the top of the mast down to the bow area of a sailboat . The forestay supports forward strength and controls stay sag- an essential factor for optimizing aerodynamics by shaping how sails interact with wind. It helps maintain proper sail geometry while limiting unnecessary heel (leaning) during maneuvers or gusts.

The backstay is another component critical for stability and control. Running from either side of the stern up to near or at the top of the mast, it helps counterbalance fore-aft bending forces created by wind pressure against a boat’s sails pushing it forward. By adjusting backstay tension, sailors can fine-tune their boat’s responsiveness to changes in wind speed or balance.

The boom, a horizontal spar attached to the mast, plays a crucial role in controlling the angle and shape of the mainsail. It acts as a pivot point for adjusting sail trim, allowing sailors to maximize lift and minimize drag based on wind conditions. With its connection to the gooseneck at the foot of the mast, it enables easy raising and lowering of the mainsail for quick adjustments or docking maneuvers .

Moreover, various blocks and pulleys are scattered throughout a sailboat’s rigging system playing essential roles in creating mechanical advantages. These components reduce friction and redirect forces generated by sails and lines during sailing operations, making it easier for sailors to handle heavy loads while preserving their energy. Choosing high-quality blocks with low-friction bearings is crucial for efficient sail handling while maintaining control.

Understanding how each part functions individually is significant; but more importantly, appreciating how they work in harmony is where true seamanship resides. Rigging components must be designed and maintained carefully to ensure safety, performance, and optimal functionality on any sailing adventure.

In conclusion, sailboat rigging components may appear simple to some extent but hold tremendous importance in enhancing a boat’s capabilities on water. From providing vertical stability with masts and dampening lateral movement with shrouds to shaping sails’ interaction with wind using forestays and backstays – every component has a crucial role to play. Understanding how these parts function individually and collectively helps sailors navigate safely while maximizing performance out on the open sea

Troubleshooting Tips: Common Issues and Solutions related to different parts of a sailboat rigging

Introduction: The rigging of a sailboat is an essential component that allows for safe navigation and optimal performance on the water. However, like any mechanical system, it can experience issues from time to time. In this blog post, we will provide detailed professional troubleshooting tips for common problems related to various parts of a sailboat rigging. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or just starting out, these solutions will help keep your rigging in top shape and ensure smooth sailing on every adventure.

1. Mast and Standing Rigging: One common issue sailors face is the presence of squeaking noises coming from the mast or standing rigging while underway. This can be quite bothersome and distracting during a peaceful sail. To resolve this problem, start by checking the connections between different components of the rigging and tighten any loose fittings appropriately. Additionally, using lubricants specifically designed for marine environments can significantly reduce friction between movable parts, eliminating annoying creaks and groans as you ride the waves.

2. Shrouds and Forestay: Another issue frequently encountered involves misaligned shrouds or forestay tension that affects the overall stability of the mast. If you notice your mast leaning slightly to one side or backward, it’s likely due to incorrectly adjusted shrouds or an improperly tensioned forestay. To rectify this, use a tension gauge to ensure consistent tension across all shrouds while avoiding excessive strain on either side of the mast base. By maintaining proper alignment and equal tension distribution, your rigging will provide maximum support when experiencing strong winds or rough conditions.

3. Running Rigging (Lines): Running rigging encompasses all lines used for controlling sails such as halyards, sheets, and control lines – crucial elements for proper sail handling. A typical problem associated with running rigging is line chafing caused by repeated friction against sharp edges or abrasive surfaces onboard. Inspect your lines regularly for signs of wear, paying close attention to areas exposed to constant rubbing. To prevent chafing, secure protective coverings or install specialized guards where necessary. Regularly washing and lubricating your lines will also extend their lifespan and ensure smooth operation.

4. Block and Tackle Systems: Block and tackle systems play a vital role in distributing loads and facilitating the movement of sails, particularly in larger sailboats. A common issue arises when blocks become jammed or fail to rotate freely due to debris buildup or lack of proper maintenance. To address this problem, inspect all blocks systematically, disassembling them if required, and clean out any accumulated dirt or salt crystals thoroughly. After cleaning, applying a liberal amount of marine-grade grease will promote smooth rotation and reduce the likelihood of future blockages.

Conclusion: Effective troubleshooting is essential for maintaining a sailboat rigging system that performs optimally and ensures a safe experience on the water. By following these detailed professional tips, you can address common issues associated with different parts of your sailboat rigging promptly and efficiently. Remember to conduct regular inspections, prioritize preventive maintenance, and seek professional assistance whenever needed. With a well-maintained rigging system at your disposal, you can embark on each sailing journey confidently, knowing that you’re prepared to overcome any challenges that may arise along the way.

Recent Posts

• Sailboat Gear and Equipment
• Sailboat Lifestyle
• Sailboat Maintenance
• Sailboat Racing
• Sailboat Tips and Tricks
• Sailboat Types
• Sailing Adventures
• Sailing Destinations
• Sailing Safety
• Sailing Techniques

No products in the cart.

Sailing Ellidah is supported by our readers. Buying through our links may earn us an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you.

The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the  standing , and the  running  rigging.

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a  block and  continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact:  Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor. 

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to  control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The  mainsheet  controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the  mainsheet   traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the  Genoa sheet , the  Jib sheet , the  Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with  in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails  before  the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb:  If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef  is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the  outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock. 

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

• One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
• An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
• A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

Sharing is caring!

Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Wire Rigging Vs. Synthetic Rigging Vs. Rod Rigging

Synthetic rigging has been getting more and more common recently. rod  rigging has lost some popularity in the past decade due to parts availability issues from manufacturers. wire rigging has remained tried and true to the test of time. in looking at each of these stay materials we find some advantages and disadvantages. let’s take a look….

WIRE RIGGING:

Wire rigging, generally, is the most common form of standing rigging found on sailboats today. 1 x 19 standard stainless steel specifically is the most common style of wire used. All of these types of wires can be found in both metric and imperial size ranges except for Dyform/ Compact Strand which is only available in metric sizing (at least as far as I know). Stainless steel wire can come in many grades; in marine applications  a minimum of 304 grade is recommended, but we [at TRC] won’t touch it unless it is the more corrosion resistant 316 grade.

Wire comes in as the lowest cost product of the three, especially when using swage fittings. Life expectancy is very good with regular inspection , 7-20 years or 15-25k nautical miles depending on use and region. It lasts not as long as rod, but longer than synthetics. It also is the stretchiest and most elastic of the three choices and therefore offers the lowest performance.

ROD RIGGING:

Nitronic 50 (XM-19) Rod rigging has extremely long life expectancy attributed to design (mono strand) and the composition of the alloy making it very corrosion resistant. It is arguable that the lifespan of a Nitronic 50 piece of rod will outlast all other stay materials. One of the recent misconceptions about rod is that it is very expensive to replace and also hard to find parts. Hence more and more people have been asking about converting their rod rigged boats to wire (but more on that below).

Contrary to recent rumors, rod rigging parts and service are readily available at The Rigging Company! 

Rod rigging does require a more in-depth service protocol during recommended intervals, which includes  unstepping the mast to inspect and re-head the rod as needed. It should be known that the cost for this is very reasonable, nowhere close to the cost of re-rigging. Yes, when dealing with complete rod replacement (not service) which is rarely the case, one can expect to pay a bit more for rod rigging, relatively speaking of course.

SYNTHETIC RIGGING:

The downsides of synthetic stays are they are generally more expensive (except single braid Dyneema  perhaps) than the other stay materials out there. Even with great strides, claiming 10 years of lifespan with service, in the carbon fiber side of things, synthetic rigging will not last as long as the metal stuff. The last downside I always point out is, although some of these materials are extremely chafe resistant (varying depending on construction technique and material choice, of course), I will stand firm that they are no match to that of metal wire or rod.

INTERCHANGEABILITY OF STAY MATERIALS:

Lastly, I’d like to touch on the subject of switching from one stay material to another. As I mentioned above, many people with rod rigging have been asking about changing over to wire. I think this is mainly attributed to the lack of service centers and parts availability for rod rigging IMHO. I will try and keep this short and sweet by starting off with the fact that it will likely cost more money to change over the rod rigging to wire, even though wire rigging is slightly less expensive (again, generally speaking). There are attachment point changes as well breaking strength considerations which can become a problem especially when considering pin sizing.

~It will likely cost more money to change over the rod rigging to wire~

Conversely, upgrading from wire to rod rigging presents similar issues. Having said all of that, there are some (very few) boats with rod rigging that can easily get away with changing things over.  Valiant is one that comes to mind. This is because they utilize conventional attachment points.

To finish this up, if talking about synthetic upgrades from rod or wire there are some better options for you. The main reason for this being a more viable option is that synthetic rigging was developed to be an upgrade from wire or rod (barring some of the newer super yacht designs, probably a non-point to you, the reader, since you are on this site). Whereas rod and wire rigging was primarily developed to be OEM equipment, not an upgrade option. Thus, if you have wire or rod…chances are, you are better off sticking with what was there originally, OR upgrading to synthetic.

Thanks for the read and please be so kind and leave us your thoughts below.

Similar Posts

So close to home.

German engineering is at it again, Bavaria Yachts is all new and looking good. Bavaria Yachts are being built (and have always been built, since 1978) just minutes away from my hometown Wurzburg, Germany in a small township called Giebelstadt. Although being completely land locked, the company boasts of being one of the largest production yacht building…

Oh to Dream

Sometimes it nice just to see what the world’s financially elite are up to. Apparently being an architect pays well… Behold the beautiful 44.7m (147ft) lift keel sloop “Lady B”. Built and launched by Vitters Shipyard who design some pretty incredible boats. [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86aVYZMZuxA&w=560&h=315] “Lady B” is a sleek performance yacht with the ever-sought-after low-slung lines of…

The 2018 Rigging Company J/24 & J/22 East Coast Championship

The Rigging Company is back on the race course again and this time stepping up its sponsorship. We are proud to announce that we are the Platinum Sponsor of The 2018 Rigging Company J24 & J22 East Coast Championship. This event takes place in late October, 10/26-10/28. The venue is at one of Annapolis’s top sailing clubs, Severn…

More Dollars Than Sense!

Just had to share this find. Not sailing related but fun to watch……. [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M38GhA-2Quo&w=560&h=315]  

A True World Cruiser

I don’t know what it is, but I really like this boat. It almost looks armored…. [youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM4Rzcm_Df0&w=560&h=315] Where do you want to go we are ready! Check out the JourneymanSailing channel for more vids.

Oracle Team USA, Back On Track

Check out the launch of the re-vamped Oracle Team USA  AC 72. A short interview with the teams GM, Grant Simmer gives some insight into the changes and the future plans for the boat. At first glance, I noticed the red rudders and ‘T’ foils that carry the Yanmar logo. It looks like this boat has…

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

34 Comments

Excellent synopsis and very helpful. Thank you.

Thank You for reading!!

I was looking at a Valiant 39 with rod rigging and my first reaction was to wonder if it was possible to change to standard wire rigging.

Thanks for the comment. The short answer yes, I think it would be a very simple swap on the Valiant Yachts due to their use of conventional, non-rod-specific, tangs (mast attachment points.

Good luck in your endeavors and let us know if we can help you further.

Great breakdown of wire, synthetic, and rod rigging! Your insights on the pros and cons of each type are invaluable. As a sailing enthusiast, I appreciate the detailed comparison that helps me make an informed decision for my boat rigging. The visuals and explanations make it accessible even for those new to the sailing world.

Hello, Thanks for this article, it was a lot educational. I have a Question I didn’t find anywhere. My J24 has 1×19 Dyform 3/16 shrouds and I started thinking that the tensions I m using from the North Sails tuning guide are referred to standard 1×19 shrouds, but Dyform are less stretcher and stiffer (so to speak). so the question is, should I have to use a different tension with Dyform, or it doesn’t matter? maybe less tension because it stretch less? Oh! one more thing, does tension gauge reading is correct in this shrouds? (as cable is more compact in diameter and stiffer)

The theory of what you are saying make sense. I would start with: A. A good static dock tune, B. Set the rig to your sailmakers tuning guide, C. Go sail. While sailing close hauled, observe the leeward shrouds (in the lulls). If you see the shrouds are just beginning to slack, then it’s PERFECT, and just follow the guide! If they look like they aren’t moving, take some turns off until they just begin to go limp (in the lulls). Once back at the dock, note the gauge settings and this should allow you to scale your pre-sail tension settings up and down, relative to your guide, from there.

At the end of the day it is important to remember the guide is just that, a guide. Eventually you will just feel things like the rig needs to be tighter or looser because it just… feels right. If you are running some heavier crew that day, you may soften things up, and visa-versa, etc…

Hope that helps and happy sailing.

I also thank you for this excellent summary! I’m cautiously returning to sailing in New England after a decades-long hiatus. I bought a 1982 Catalina 27, and I’m unsure of the age of the rigging or if it needs to be replaced. How do I determine such a thing? Also, if you have an inspection/maintenance checklist/schedule, I’d be very glad to see it. Thanks.

Thanks for the kind words. Other than asking the previous owner you can send along some pictures of things to [email protected] and we can likely tell once we put our eyes on things.

I own a nine meter cruising catamaran. I had the mast and rigging done about 16 years ago. Being a cat the deck is one meter above the waterline so the rigging isn’t close to the water. The rigging is 8mm Compact 1 * 19 S/S. I do no more than 500 nautical miles per year (generally less). Should I look at replacing my rigging soon or can I probably get a few more years from it?

Where on the planet does the boat spend most of it’s time?

“Cobwebs” is moored in a sheltered area on the southern shores in Lake Macquarie, about 80 miles north of Sydney. Most of the weather systems are south westerlies and passes overhead as Cobs is moored close to the land. I check the rigging on a regular basis and clean the lower sections with soapy fresh water. It’s going to cost me about $1600 Aus to replace the rigging so if I can stretch this out for a couple of years I will be happy to do so. Your thoughts on this issue will be most appreciative, regards Ross C.

If this lake is fresh water you are very likely in better shape than those on Saltwater. The three factors are: salt air and water content, how close you are to the equator (sunlight), and also use. Use, encompasses the boat sitting at the dock. At the dock, the rigging experiences what they call “Cycle Loading” even if not sailed. So fresh water and the rigging being removed and stored when the boat is not in use will generally offer the longest lifespan.

Having said that 16 years even in those ideal conditions is nearing it’s end. So inspect it more than regularly, and prepare yourself for the inevitable.

PS – $1600 sounds reasonable for what it’s worth.

I hope that’s somewhat helpful.

Cheers, ~T.R.C.

SUPERBLY INFORMATIVE ARTICLE (MARGINALLY DATED OR OTHERWISE). OF THE SLOOPS I HAVE OWNED, ALL WERE RIGGED WITH WIRE (1-19) AND, DESPITE OPEN OCEAN AIR (20-35 KNOTS) BEING THE PLAT DU JOUR IN HAWAIIAN WATERS, I NEVER HAD AN ISSUE OF ANY SORT. THANKS TO YOUR FINE REVIEW i SHALL STAY WHERE I AM IN THE FORTHCOMING RE-RIGGING AND LEAVE THE ROD AND SYNTHETICS TO THE THOSE OF THE RACING CLASSES. MANY THANKS AGAIN… AND I SHALL REFER TO YOUR SITE OFTEN!

Thank you for your super helpful article, as it’s really informative having a side by side comparison for the three rigging types in one place. I have a 25′ trailerable coastal cruiser that I’m pondering switching from wire rigging to synthetic. The spreaders, though, just have a filed groove on the end for the shrouds to pass through (and the small holes on either side with which to wire the shroud in place). How do you eliminate chafing and make sure the shrouds stay in place with synthetic rigging running over the end of the spreaders? Cheers, Brandt

Find a piece of heavy rubber or vinyl or plastic tubing that the stay material fits through freely. Then cut about 2″ or so of said tubing with nice clean ends. Then file the slots open to accept said piece of rubber tubing or the like. Then, roll up a piece of sand paper to make the edges smooth and soften the aluminum slot. This should give you a fairlead and allow you to seize the synthetic stay to the spreader as you would with wire. The tubing should acting as a ferrule or buffer between metal slot and synthetic rope.

Hope that makes sense and is helpful.

Good Luck, ~T.R.C.

Good article but you never gave us an idea how much does rod last like you did with wire. Is there a guidance number of years and miles? Thanks

Great point! There’s always something missing.

We’ve written about this in a blog called “Rod Rigging” which is linked in the article, but it is’t clear.

Thanks! ~T.R.C.

This article should be updated. Synthetic rigging suppliers now say that it should be sized based on creep rather than breaking strength. Synthetic rigging tends to be much more elastic than wire rigging.

Thanks Jake,

No doubt, this (creep) is a major factor in choosing the right stay material size. Carbon rigging perhaps being the exception, but I am curious for more information on this.

We will indeed update this soon. For now our suppliers still size by tonnage. Also the pin sizes associated with the stay’s diameter are a factor in how we decide which diameter stay your boat requires.

Thanks for caring and thanks for the comment. Most of these seemingly simple write ups require regular updates as the market and the knowledge associated is changing constantly.

It’s comments like these that help us stay sharp.

Regards, ~T.R.C.

• Pingback: Why Choose Dyneema Rope vs Steel Wire Rope For Heavy-Duty Rigging?

I am going ocean sailing on a hallberg rassy 26 the rug needs replacing. Its all 6mm1x19 the back stay is 5mm I want to change to dyform the same size with stalok fittings to make it stronger. Your thoughts please

I am thinking of taking my hallberg rassy 26 on ocean passage and need ro renew the standing rigging she has 6mm all round and a 5 mm baxkstay I want stronger so am rhinking of using dyform same sizes with stalok fittings. Any thoughts ?

Thanks hope that helps and let us know if we can help you out further.

I have a C & C 42 Landfall with rod rigging. 1978 year is old but it is what i could afford. Think about long cruising at 68 but want somebody to look at rigging before i go. Atlantic Yacht Basin got all my money and say dead batteries? They laugh they fixed alternator and recommend i come back.

Thanks How does one measure tension in Aramid stays? SS

Very good question…I would use a Loos and Co. rigging tension gauge . It has nice, fair nylon rollers that will agree with the fiber stay materials.

In my mast with rod uppers there is a clindrical device that holds the rod ends at each side. Can the rods be removed? And how is the clindrical device held to the mast?

Hi Ernie, those seem exactly like the tangs we warn about in this blog….. https://theriggingco.com/2015/02/20/rod-rigging/

Also this has a technical drawing of the tangs that you are asking about (pretty sure).

YES, you can remove them, but you may find that they are more than you bragined for. HEAT is recommended.

Please call or email us for further assistance. We’d be glad to help.

Thanks for Reading,

Informative article. I am looking at a boat now with carbon mast and boom with PBO rigging. I took particular note of your comment on PBO “good luck with that one”. What do you mean by that? I am assuming that you are not a fan of PBO rigging.

Hi Charlie,

Another super informative post thank you! If you fancy a holiday in NZ then my wire rigging needs replacing next year. Also the spinnaker halyard keeps jumping out of the sheave at the top of the mast requiring someone to go up every time to get it down. As you can imagine this is getting quite tiresome! Anyway we will get the mast out next year to sort it. We do have a good rigging team here in Christchurch who can sort it. (unless you fancy a holiday that is…?!) ha ha. By the way is that the reflection on the transom of that yacht? What a great paint job!

HA! Thanks Viki! Actually, the wife and I have always quite fancied a vacay to NZ. It may be a long shot, but doable. We’ll need to exchange a few emails, answer a few questions. First let’s see what the wife says.

Yeah, that boat is incredible.

Username or Email Address

Remember Me

Lost your password?

Review Cart

No products in the cart.

• Privacy Overview
• Strictly Necessary Cookies

This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.

Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings.

If you disable this cookie, we will not be able to save your preferences. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again.

42Year:2016Asking:$475,000

Featured Sailboat: 50Year:2007Asking:$230,000 Featured Sailboat: 26Year:1982Asking:$20,000 ... 33Year:1980Asking:$1 Standard Sailboat Ads:

This is a very long, comprehensive video of our Westsail 42, "Sea Rat". GENERAL INFO: Our sailboat "Sea Rat" is a 1978 Westsail 42 cutter. It has the tall rig, 2-spreader mast, great sails, new standing rigging, new chainplates, barrier coated hull, CPT Autopilot, Monitor Windvane, Tigres windlass, and a Yanmar 4JH4-TE diesel engine with 700 hours. You could launch this boat next week and begin a circumnavigation. A UNIQUE FACT: Our Westsail is hull #100. While it is undeniably a boat built in 1978, which makes it 46 years old, the boat has seen drastically less use than its age would suggest. For 30 years the boat was stored, unfinished, in California. The sails and original rigging was stored indoors during this period. This is why the sails, while original, are in such great shape. Essentially, the boat has really only been used for about 15 years of its overall life. It's a bit like when someone finds an old classic car that's been stored in a barn for 30 years. In this way, our boat shows far less wear and tear than you'd expect for a boat of this age. LOCATION: She's currently on the hard in St Mary's, GA in one of the only DIY marinas left on the East coast. It's a great place to keep a boat, especially if you prefer to do your own work, like we do. It is OK if you spend the night on the boat in this work yard. It's already set up with an air conditioner so things stay cool and dehumidified while at the boat. SAILING CHARACTERISTICS: Contrary to mis-guided belief, the Westsail 42 is quite fast, regularly sailing at speeds over 8 knots sustained. She tends to sail at about half the windspeed and does surprisingly well even in lighter winds. She will point at angles closer than 45 degrees to the wind, but does begin to slip rapidly if pressed to sail much closer than that. She's a HEAVY displacement, full-keel sailboat that's fast, capable, safe, stable, and very comfortable in the ocean. She's a wonderful boat. Solid, trustworthy, capable and comfortable.  42 Year: 1978 Asking: $80,000
34 Year: 2008 Asking: $69,000
43 Year: 1990 Asking: $89,995
34 Year: 1986 Asking: $22,500
24 Year: 1976 Asking: $5,000
30 Year: 1983 Asking: $28,500

Standard Sailboat Ads:

19 Year: 2013 Asking: $16,500
23 Year: 2012 Asking: $25,000
24.5 Year: 1970 Asking: $
36 Year: 2007 Asking: $210,000
26 Year: 1981 Asking: $6,000
44 Year: 2009 Asking: $360,000
41 Year: 2004 Asking: $220,000
26 Year: 1978 Asking: $5,900
14 Year: 1998 Asking: $5,000
30 Year: 1974 Asking: $7,500