sailboat mast hoist

How To: Sailboat Mast Climbing Guide

Climbing your sailboat mast can be an easy and enjoyable activity. With the right equipment and information you will successfully be able to access all exterior parts of your mast. In this guide, I will teach you how to climb your mast with confidence. As with so many activities on a boat, safety must be your top priority when climbing your mast.

Regardless of your crew situation, the equipment necessary to safely climb your mast is basically the same: two halyards, a bosun's chair, and some form of harness. You can be hoisted by crew or ascend using an ascension device. The particular equipment you choose is up to your preference and budget.

Sailors die every year from improper climbing techniques. By doing your due diligence, you will be ready to safely climb your mast. Ascending your mast is not the time for cursory preparation, so you must double up on all safety equipment. Redundancy is key. Don't put yourself in a position where a single failure of equipment could mean your death.

I have been up my sailboat mast half a dozen times and have never felt unsafe or afraid while aloft. By always following thorough safety precautions and having solid communication with my crew, I actually enjoy going up the mast. It gives me perspective of my vessel and the surrounding area that is normally out of view. I hope this guide helps you enjoy your first time climbing your sailboat mast, as well.

I am not an expert on climbing sailboat masts. I do not know the condition or quality of your equipment. It is your responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of your crew. This is solely a guide to help you feel better informed on this topic.

Table of contents

The Crewed Climber

The most basic way to climb a mast is to have a crew member crank you up using a winch. This method requires you to have a crew member on board with the brawn and willingness to do that job. If you are lucky enough to have a beefy, willing crew member then this section is for you.

Primary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Bosun's Chair
• Main Halyard

Your primary safety equipment will consist of a bosun's chair  (or equivalent) connected to a halyard. Ideally the halyard will be one that does not have a free-standing block at the top of the mast. Your main halyard will likely be your best option for your primary line.

Feed your primary line through your bosun's chairs double d-rings and secure using a bowline knot. Tying your halyard to your bosun's chair will eliminate possible failure at the halyard shackle.

Once you have tied your primary line to your bosun's chair using a bowline knot, clip the halyard shackle to the d-rings as a redundant safety measure.

Prior to using your bosun's chair, be sure to read the instruction manual for your particular model so that you are properly secured within the chair.

Secondary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Secondary line

On my sailboat, my husband and I have climbing harnesses that we use as backup to our bosun's chair. A foul weather harness will work for this application as well.

Put on the harness prior to getting into the bosun's chair. Just as with the primary line, use a bowline knot to secure the second halyard to your harness. On my sailboat, I use the spinnaker halyard as my secondary line. You may have a line better suited for the job such as a removable topping lift.

Which Winch?

Now that you have your primary and secondary gear set up, it's time to deal with the working end of your primary and secondary lines.

Due to the variation in block, winch, and cleat locations from boat to boat, it is difficult to give exact directions for how to set up your lines. On board my vessel we use the main halyard as our primary line. The main halyard runs out of our lower mast, through several blocks and back to our cockpit. We run the primary line back to our starboard jib sheet winch because it is self-tailing and has two speeds. Our secondary line runs back to the port jib sheet winch.

In this method it is necessary for both winches to be self-tailing.

Whichever line you choose to use as your primary line, you will need to find as unobstructed a path as possible for that line to join with your winch. Use blocks as needed to create a chafe-free path for your primary.

Every time I have climbed our mast, my husband has been below at the winch. Even though we use a winch that is self tailing, whenever possible we have a friend tailing the primary line. This additional safety precaution prevents line slippage and a possible accident.

The Hoisting Begins

You now have your harness on with your secondary line attached and you are in the bosun's chair with the primary line attached. It's time to test the system's strength. First, have your winch handler take out any slack in the primary line while you stand with knees bent at the mast base. Have your mate cleat off the primary line. Then, test the strength of it all by bouncing a few times in the bosun's chair.

It might seem silly bouncing around in the bosun's chair just above the deck, but it sure makes me feel better knowing that I have already put more stress on the system than I will at any other point during my climb.

Feeling confident that all systems are go, your crew member will begin cranking on the winch from the cockpit. Being raised up the mast can take a while. Be sure to wear shoes and gloves so that if you decide to assist in your ascension, you don't end up with paint slivers in your hands and feet.

Your crew member will crank you up a few feet at a time or perhaps a few inches at a time, depending on their vigor. Every time they pause on the primary winch, they will pull in slack on the secondary. They must secure the primary line prior to attending to the secondary. This will ensure that if your primary fails you will only drop a short distance onto your secondary line.

Once you have reached your working point on your mast, your crew member below will cleat off both lines. Your winch handler will surely feel like it's nap time but their job isn't over yet. While you're working, be sure your crew member stays attentive in case you realize you don't have the necessary tools for the job or you are ready to descend.

I have been at the top of my mast only to realize that I need a flat head instead of a Phillips, or electrical tape, or a multimeter. It's beyond frustrating to be at the top of the mast and realize that you forgot something or don't have what you need.

To save the arms of your cranking crewmember, bring a long piece of string in the pocket of your bosons chair. If you realize you need an additional tool, you can lower the string to your crew member and they will tie on the forgotten item for you to pull up. If you happen to be particularly forgetful, it would be clever to employ a canvas bag to receive the tools.

I have found that it's difficult to see the top of my mast while sitting in the bosun's chair even when it's fully raised. I remedy this by bringing a looped piece of webbing (a sling) which I connect with a carabiner to the top of my mast. I then step into the piece of webbing which raises me high enough to see the top of the mast .

The Fun Part

One of the most enjoyable parts of climbing the mast is coming back down. The work is done and now you get to enjoy a smooth, steady descent to deck level.

It's essential that your crew member below wear gloves for this part of the job. I recommend gloves for the entire job but certainly for this bit.

From the cockpit, your crew member will uncleat the secondary line and remove that line from it's winch. Your crew member will then take the line out of the self-tailing mechanism on the primary winch while maintaining a firm grip on the line. They will slowly let out the primary line while keeping three wraps on the winch. Continue slowly releasing line until all crew are deck side.

To aid in exiting the bosun's chair I recommend descending until you are sitting on deck. The extra slack will help you remove yourself from the bosun's chair as gracefully as possible.

The Crewless Climber

Knowing how to climb your mast independently is invaluable, even if you never sail solo. Lifting an adult using a winch can be difficult, time consuming, and tiring. By having the right equipment you can climb your mast with very little to no assistance.

Primary Safety Equipment (Solo)

There are many types of products on the market to help you climb the mast. There are ladders which utilize your mainsail mast track, webbing loops raised to the mast top using the main halyard, and permanently installed mast steps. Alternatively, there are devices which attach directly to the main halyard which allows you to climb the halyard. I'm going to refer to any device that is used to climb the halyard as an "ascension device".

Regardless of the ascension device you choose, these items are essential:

• Ascension Device
• 3 Climbing Carabiners
• 2 Foot Slings

Secondary Safety Equipment (Solo)

• Secondary Line
• 1 Climbing Carabiner

Sailboats are not all rigged the same. You may find that your spinnaker halyard is your only option for the secondary line. On some vessels, the topping lift will be the best option. You will need to determine which line works best for you.

Using The Ascension Device

The ladder style ascension devices are fairly self-explanatory. If you know how to climb a ladder, you're all set. So, I will not go into their use here. In this section, I will explain how to use a rock climbing ascension device to climb your mast.

This is an example of a rock climbing ascension device:

Beth lives on board her 1983 30ft S2 sailboat with her husband, 6 year-old son, and her two fur babies. She has been sailing and boating for most of her life. Beth has been blessed to experience cruising in the Great Lakes, the Bahamas, and in Alaska. She loves to travel and adores living on her tiny boat with her family.

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MAST MATE CLIMBING SYSTEM

The original mast ladder, made in the USA since 1989.

A Skipper’s First Mate Is Self Reliance Sailboat ladder or mast ladder that allows one to climb the mast alone for maintenance.

CLIMBING SYSTEM

Mast Mate is an alternating-step, flexible mast ladder made of 2 inch-wide nylon webbing. Each mast step is reinforced with an additional piece of webbing.The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is a minimum of 3,000 pounds.

TOOL BAG WORKBELT

The design is similar to a linesman’s belt, consisting of an adjustable waist belt with a tool bag conveniently affixed at the back and a tether strap that goes around the mast and clips back onto the opposite side of the belt…

DEAR SAILOR

Thank you for your

interest in the Mast

Mate Climbing

System…

I take pride in introducing you to Mast Mate, an efficient, single-handed, patented mast climbing device and the practical Tool Bag Workbelt. Combined, they make going aloft and working a simple, easy and, most importantly, safe experience. As a sailor, I know that going aloft is a serious matter, be it at the dock or underway. The quality of Mast Mate and the Workbelt reflect that belief.

All our mast step ladders and Tool Bag Workbelts are made in the U.S.A with quality materials and meticulous craftmanship. Whether you cruise, day sail or race, mast maintenance is a chore that cannot be overlooked. If it is, you will pay the price in time and money, or worse! Mast Mate can be rigged in five minutes and climbed in less time than that. Combined with the Workbelt securing you to the mast, small repairs like changing a bulb or fixing a wind indicator, as well as larger jobs, such as replacing shrouds or varnishing can be attended to without assistance. No more winching; no more scouting the dock for help; no more not quite being able to reach the masthead.

Over the years, we have supplied the Mast Mate Climbing System to Single Handed Transpac Racers, as well as to a number of challengers in the Ostar Races. A single hander has no one but himself to count on. I am sure you will find the Mast Mate Climbing System the best method for climbing and working aloft.

TESTIMONIALS

Thank you to Nic Morgan from “The Boat Life Blogger” for this video. His blog is fun and informative.

Please do not use the work belt as a safety harness. Use the work belt around the mast when you are in position to work.

I went up the mast using MastMate today, in order to repair the wind speed indicator.  Here are my takeaways:

Feel Free to Contact Us for More Info.

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Going Up the Mast Alone

A certain appeal of sailing is its seeming limitlessness. One can spend a lifetime perfecting navigation skills. Remember Marvin Creamer, who circumnavigated by the ancient Polynesian method of memorizing the relationships of stars? He carried no instruments, not even a compass.

Even more mundane aspects of sailing confound us with myriad possibilities. Take going up the mast. There are lots of ways to make the short trip nobody enjoys.

For going up alone, one can choose from mast steps, web ladders, adaptations of mountain-climbing equipment or mechanical contrivances utilizing gears or tackle.

Whatever method you choose, thought must be given to the question of whether you want the capability of going up the mast while underway with the mainsail set. Reaching the top while tied securely to a dock or at anchor on a quiet morning is one thing. Going aloft with the mainsail in the way is another.

With the main set, steps can be used only when ascending along the front side of the mainmast. Web ladders can’t be used at all because their slides fit in the mainsail track.

In the recent July 1 issue, the nine currently available mast steps were reviewed. Included were fixed, folding and demountable steps. Also extolled was a device called a Saf Brak, a short cam cleat-equipped strop for use with a harness or boatswains chair.

To complete the examination of devices to travel up and down your mast, undertaken here is a look at two mast ladders made of webbing, another device called the Mastlift (a little like a chain fall) and, because of a readers suggestion, a rundown on a professional riggers way of doing it.

Mast Ladders The two ladders-Capt. Als and the Mast Mate-are made of very strong webbing. Each is hoisted to the masthead with a halyard. Sail slides to fit your mast track and shackled to the vertical length of webbing help keep the ladder close to the mast.

Mast Mate uses powerful 2″ nylon-Dacron blend webbing for both the single vertical strap and the steps. The steps have double layers of webbing. Gary Wheeler, who developed Mast Mate, said the special webbing has no memory, so it stows and deploys very nicely, with the steps standing open. The steps are 17″ apart. There are double steps 3′ from the top; they can be placed higher if desired.

Wheeler recommends that a downhaul be rigged and made taut to give the Mast Mate good vertical stability.

Capt. Als uses three vertical 1″ all-Dacron straps, which also support PVC tubing on the steps. Compared with Mast Mates all-web step, the PVC tubing on Capt. Als helps a bit when you insert a foot. The tubing also makes fine handholds.

Alan Byer, president of Capt. Als Products, Inc., said the ladder has recently been re-engineered. The web loop at the top end has been replaced with a high tensile stainless ring and the steps have been made 12″ apart rather than the prior 15″. The 12″ steps are an especially good idea for those with short legs or whose long ones are no longer quite as flexible.

Most importantly, instead of mast slides sewn to the webbing (by your sailmaker), Capt. Als now has brass grommets, reinforced with stitching, at 24″ intervals to which sail slides are to be attached with small, loose-pin shackles. (The grommet system has always been used by Mast Mate, which furnishes nylon shackles; you supply the sail slides.)

There is but a moderate load on the grommets and shackles; the principal load is on the halyard.

The real advantage of the grommet/shackle arrangement vs. sewn-in-place slides is that if you change boats, you can, if necessary, easily change the sail slides.

Capt. Als sells for $148 for a 36′ version, $198.89 for the 50′ model. The Mast Mate is $250 for a 35-footer, $350 for the 50′. Both come in custom lengths and with bags.

While convenient, the downside of these two ladders is that they can’t be used underway. The mainsail must be lowered first; in fact, unless you have a gate above the lowered main, you may have to remove it entirely.

The Mastlift A different approach to mast-climbing is the Mastlift imported by IMTA. It has parts made in Switzerland, is assembled in Spain and sold by a German company. Its a slick but very expensive drum-shaped gear box that is attached to a halyard (or better, two halyards) and hoisted to the masthead while a line on a reel is retained initially at deck level. Fasten your harness or chair to the line (5/16″ Spectra with a breaking strength of close to five tons) and use a separate line, a continuous long loop fitted to a ratchet wheel, to enjoy a 10-1 advantage for hoisting yourself. It takes about 10 minutes to rig. The Mastlift wont get you eye level with the top of your mast, but hardly anything does.

The Mastlift has a worm gear drive and two automatic brakes, so you need not keep tension on the continuous control line. Reversing the pull on the loop brings you down.

An important advantage of the Mastlift is that it also can be used on the end of a boom as a lifting device. Made of stainless, anodized aluminum and high impact plastic, the Mastlift for masts up to 45′ costs $995 and weighs 15 lbs. The large one for masts to 82′ costs $1,195 and weighs 17 lbs. You get every three years a free courtesy inspection of ratchets, brake pads, etc. Available as an extra is a thick neoprene cover ($40) to prevent damage from swinging around. Unfortunately, it covers just the sides and not the ends of the drum. To keep the Mastlift entirely away from the mast, a roller device (a stainless bridle with wood rollers) permits you to hoist the Mastlift on the jib stay with the sail furled; it sells for $60. Mastlifts boatswains chair ($166) is sturdy, but it wouldnt be our choice; wed use a soft chair like a Lirakis or Raudaschl. (Bosuns chairs were reviewed in the January 15, 1993 and August 15, 1993 issues.)

We could not find for this review a device called the Topclimber, that utilizes a static line, moveable hand grippers and a set of stirrups. It once was handled by Luna Industries, a Canadian firm, but their telephone answering machine states that they no longer handle the Topclimber.

Home-Made Chair & Tackle But heres another approach, prompted by a letter from a reader, Michael Spencer of Duluth, Minnesota, who asked, How do real riggers do it? He had asked a professional rigger, who described a system involving two fiddle blocks and a length of 5/8″ line five times the height of the mast. But the rigger issued so many warnings and admonishments, Spencer is being rightfully cautious. So, he wrote us.

Weve been admiring our riggers system for some years now. Tim Leery of Portsmouth, Rhode Island told us that he copied his chair and tackle from others and it too has been copied. Like Mr. Spencers rigger, Tim has 4:1 purchase, but does not use fiddle blocks. Schaefer 3″ side-by-side double blocks, one with a becket and both with shackles make up the purchase. What distinguishes Tims setup is the big teak cleat bolted to the lower block with 1/4″ x 40 machine screws and nuts (see photo), for belaying his 300′ of 7/16″ Regatta braid. (Note that he does not use a stopper, clutch or cam, Clam or jam cleat.)

To use, he secures the shackle (not a snap shackle!) to a halyard led over an internal masthead sheave (never a block suspended from a crane!). Then he gets into the chair and begins hauling. Though hes only lifting about 25% of his weight, he says it does require some arm strength. For less effort, the purchase could be increased to 5:1 or 6:1 by using one triple/double or triple/triple block combinations, the disadvantages being that the hauling line gets proportionally longer and thered be increased friction.

To secure himself when he stops, Tim belays the lifting line on the teak cleat bolted to the block. Then, he runs a 4′ pennant around the mast and back to his chair, securing it with a carabiner. This pennant not only keeps him from swinging, it will stop his fall at the first obstruction, such as the spreaders.

Working from a swinging chair isn’t easy. Tim recommends installing two steps near the masthead for foot placement. This enables one to actually work at masthead level by getting a little higher; the blocks with chair stop a little short of letting you get your head above the masthead.

Because Tim works alone, he does not have a safety line in the form of another halyard attached to a harness. When a helper is available, this is a good idea. That person should take the halyard end to a winch or give it a half-turn on a cleat and trim as the rigger ascends. When the rigger descends, the helper should pay out line, keeping some tension and friction on the winch or cleat.

Weve been up the mast many times with a helper or two grinding and tailing a winch below, and frankly, its always made us nervous. Paranoia sets in. What happens, for example, if a bee stings the tailer? Or he gets a cramp or simply relaxes his grip when he spots Willow Bay on a passing boat?

Most professional riggers we know, including Tim Leery, prefer to take themselves up rather than rely on deckhands.

The Bottom Line Now to summarize both the July 1 review of steps and this examination of the ladders and other means of going to the masthead, the choices in steps remain the same: Fixed or folding.

The fixed types are basically the old $16.99 Ronstan, which is small and snag-free, or triangular-shaped pieces of stainless steel or aluminum that are fastened with screws or rivets. They hold the feet captive, a good feeling in a seaway. But, halyards inevitably foul on them. We think the best of the triangles is the $26.99 Pace-Edwards, an excellent aluminum extrusion that can be fastened with aluminum rivets.

The folding types-the $14.50 Mast Walker (made by Damage Control) and a nearly-identical $15.99 step made by ABI-present less of a corner for halyards to catch, but are simply pegs that despite a lip at the end, don’t hold the foot captive.

The final choice in steps are the de-mountable Fasteps, which sell for $12.95. Used in conjunction with the previously mentioned Saf Brak, which sells for $68.95, we think the Fastep/Saf Brak combination is the best choice in steps. Besides providing automatic safety against falling, the Saf Brak keeps the climber close to the mast.

For web ladders, theres little to choose between the Mast Mate and Capt. Als. With either, the tendency to swing around is nerve wracking. Still, we keep one aboard. The manufacturers of these web ladders talk about hoisting them on any halyard or even a topping lift, but note that the professional rigger will not go aloft on anything that does not go over a fixed masthead sheave. One also should periodically check the sewing.

Of the Mastlift, its an expensive but solidly engineered solution to a problem that can be solved less extravagantly-unless you want to use it for other lifting purposes. Backed up by a Saf Brak, it provides an extraordinary feeling of security. We exercised it a number of times while repairing lights and instruments on Viva, our Tartan 44 test boat (see photo) and with each usage, confidence climbed higher and higher.

Finally, if youre inclined to go often to the masthead without anyone to help, consider rigging your own tackle, but as a safeguard buy and figure out how to rig a Saf Brak. A photo of the Saf Brak is in the July 1 issue.

Again, a reminder about going aloft while underway.

Going up a bare mast with sturdy gear while tied to a dock on a calm morning is not difficult-just nervous.

Doing so while underway, with the mainsail set, is a much more demanding feat. You cannot reach the masthead with the mainsail set using steps unless you go up along the forward edge of the mast. You cannot go up with either web ladders, because they mount in the mainmast track. You could rig the Mastlift, but were not sure how it would be with that 15-pound canister swinging around up there. You can go aloft with a block and tackle of your own assembly, but unless you use a Saf Brak on a separate line, you have nothing to prevent you from swinging around.

Our choice? We like the ability to go it alone and not depend on the strength and concentration of crew below, especially-and we don’t mean to be sexist here-a small woman. If we had the bucks, wed buy the Mastlift. If not, the home-made riggers tackle would satisfy us nicely. With any of these systems-steps, ladders or tackle-wed definitely use the Saf Brak. For about $70, it is, we think, the best insurance you can buy.

Contacts- ABI, 1160A Industrial Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952; 707/765-6200. Capt. Als Products, PO Box 370153, West Hartford, CT 06137-0153; 860/232-9065. Defender Industries, Inc., 42 Great Neck Road, Waterford, CT 06385; 800/628-8225. Fastep & Saf Brak, Alfred Gilbert Enterprises, 2921 Wood Pipe Lane, Philadelphia, PA 19129; 215/849-4016. Mastlift, IMTA, 326 First St., Suite 17, Annapolis, MD 21403; 800/606-0589. Mast Mate, Box 5035, Augusta, ME, 04332, 800/548-0436. Mast Walker, Damage Control, 7670 Bay St., Pasadena, MD 21122-3433; 410/360-2445. Pace-Edwards, 2400 Commercial Blvd., Centralia, WA 98531; 800/338-3697. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777; 813/545-1911. Schaefer Marine, 158 Duchaine, New Bedford, MA 02745-1293; 508/995-9511. West Marine, 500 Westridge Dr., Watsonville, CA 95076; 800/262-8464.

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How to Climb a Mast – Is a Mast Ladder Worth It?

One of the inevitable parts of owning a sailboat is climbing the mast. Some people enjoy this task. For them, it’s another part of the adventure. But I am not one of those people.

For me, there is only one task that is worse than going up the mast. I will spare you the gory details, but it may surprise you to learn that it does not involve the toilet. That’s right, climbing the mast is worse for me than dealing with toilet issues.

Mast climbing is made even worse due to my trust issues. While I usually have two or more people around to winch me up, I don’t trust any of them. Not my wife, not the weirdo from the next dock, and not the “professionals” I know who would be willing to help. 

So I set out to learn how to do it myself. I am by no means an expert, but I have successfully climbed up and back many times now on several boats. I can do it myself if needed, but I still like having a helper around to hear my screams and fetch me tools.

Table of Contents

Safety first, self-climbing gear — block and tackle climbers.

• ATN Mast Climber 

Hoistable Sailboat Mast Ladder

Mast climber sailboat options for every boat, mast ladder and mast climbing faqs, how to climb a mast with two people.

Before diving into how a solo sailor might climb up the rig, let’s look at how most people tackle the problem. The traditional sailor’s solution is the lowly bosun’s chair. 

The bosun’s chair is simply a board attached to wide nylon webbing that you can sit on. The webbing is attached to a halyard, and the halyard is winched up the mast by someone on deck. 

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Bosun’s chairs vary in features. Some are as simple as a board with straps. Others are much more secure and comfortable, with a back to keep your bum in place and straps around your thighs to ensure it does not slip. Of course, the more secure and comfortable it is, the easier it is to do projects with two hands. Many sailors like to use a climbing safety harness

It takes quite a lot of winching for the deckhand to get you to the top. It’s the only job on my sailboat that makes me wish for an electric winch, actually.

Going up the mast is all about planning and playing the “what if” game. For safety, please make sure everyone involved knows their roles. It’s advisable to put someone on the winch who is well-versed in cleat hitches, clutches, self-tailing or non-self-tailing, and whatever else you’ve got going on. Shouting about which line to secure where and how is the last thing you want to do as you swing 50 feet off the deck.

Always have a safety line. Yes, it increases your work and gives you one more thing to worry about. But it just might save your bacon. 

Don’t forget to plan out precisely what you’re going to be doing once you get where you’re going. Walk through every action you need to take. 

Make sure you take all of the tools you need—and might need—with you. I like to take as much as I can in a close-fitting messenger or sling bag. The only thing worse than mast climbing is doing it multiple times. Of course, you can have your helper send tools and parts up and down with a bucket, but it adds complexity to the operation and lots of potential to be aggravated.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Lucy, Matt, Chelsea (@boatlifelarks)

How to Climb a Mast Solo

All of this is well and good if you have a helper, but what if there is no one around? Solo mast climbing requires even more planning out and thinking. The same rules apply, but now you’ve got to figure out how to get to the top without anyone else’s help.

A safety line is essential even with these options, so plan accordingly.

The top ways for a solo sailboat mast climber to accomplish the task are listed below.

• Block and tackle self-climbers
• Climbing ascenders, like the ATN Mast Climber
• Fixed mast steps
• Hoistable sailboat mast ladders

Professional riggers have been going up masts by themselves for a long time, so it’s no wonder that they’d have some pretty good systems worked out. While some depend on a ground-side helper to winch them up, many prefer the freedom of using a custom-made block and tackle setup. 

If you want to go this route, you’ll want to be very good with rope handling and marlinspike seamanship. You’ll also need to invest in some nice hardware. Most sailing stuff comes marked “not for human climbing.”

Most of these setups attach to the boat’s halyard. You then hoist one end of the setup to the top of the mast, and the other end is attached to your bosun’s chair at deck level. The bitter end is with the chair, and it includes a jammer or stopper. There’s enough purchase in the system to make hoisting yourself up a relatively simple maneuver. 

These systems can’t get you right up to the top of the mast, but this is a weak point for most climbers.

ATN Mast Climber

A slightly slicker version of the same idea is the ATN Mast Climber . This gadget is pulled right from the rock climbing world. Out of the box, you need no other rigging or parts to make it work. 

Instead of hoisting anything up, the Mast Climber attaches onto an existing static line. Tie a halyard to the deck, and winch a bit to get the line taut. The Mast Climber then attaches to that line for the climb up. It’s easiest if the line isn’t perfectly vertical. I like to attach mine to the coachroof handrails. Being able to attach it anywhere on deck means you can position yourself to best reach whatever you need to work on.

The Mast Climber has two parts: the bosun’s chair climbing harness and the foot straps. Each attaches to your mast line with the climbing equivalent of a rope clutch. With a squeeze, they let you move freely up the rope. But once you release your grip, your weight jams them locked onto the line. 

It takes a little practice to use the Mast Climber, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be going up in no time. To my surprise, coming down is actually a little more challenging because it requires different timing and spacing than going up does. One tip–always wear sturdy shoes and gloves.

The no-brainer solution for salty bluewater solo sailors is to install mast steps. These fixed metal steps attach to each side of the mast and allow you to climb up just like a regular ladder. 

The steps are small, and you’ll need a safety line as well. But they do enable you to climb up the mast any time without having to get more equipment or worry too much about it. And short of falling off, they’re better fool-proof and easy to use. 

Unfortunately, they are always there – and not exactly pretty. It’s a lot of hardware on your mast, which increases weight and windage aloft. From the installation side, putting them on is a big and expensive project that requires drilling many holes in your beautiful aluminum spar.

You might opt to install only a few steps to help you with other climbing systems. For example, many sailors install a pair or two at the masthead. Then when they arrive with their bosun’s chair or a self-climber, they have something solid to stand on. If the steps are positioned high enough, they’ll even enable you to work on the masthead.

A mast ladder is a hoistable ladder made of webbing. It goes up on the mast on your halyard and attaches into the mast track just like your mainsail—with slides.

Recovery Marine

• 50 Foot Mast Ladder
• Steps Double Reinforced
• Easy to Use Mast Ladder
• Man Overboard Ladder

Kinleven Marine Mast Ladder

This is probably the nicest hoistable mast ladder on the market. It’s made-to-order for your vessel, so you’ll have to supply a few measurements from your boat to get it built just right. 

The best feature is the ladder’s rungs, which are made from sturdy and strong plastic. This gives the ladder the most solid feel of any available options. It’s like climbing a conventional ladder, more or less.

It’s also extremely stable because it is mounted on slides that match your mast track. Unfortunately, you will have to remove your mainsail to load it into the track. That’s a pain but shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. 

One of the best mast ladder sailboat owners can choose, the Mast Mate is simple and easy. Where the Kinleyen is a beautiful unit, it is custom made to fit your boat. Some sailors might favor a unit they can use on any boat, and the Mast Mate is just what the ship’s doctor ordered.

The disadvantage of webbing ladders like the Mast Mate is that the steps are made of webbing, too. That can make it hard to get a good foothold, and it’s far from comfortable. However, it does mean that the ladder folds up into a small and light package for storage.

Like the Kinleven, the Mast Made uses mast slides to keep the ladder in place. You might have to sew your own on if the maker doesn’t supply them.

Unless your boat has a mast small enough to put up and down quickly, the day will come when you need to climb it. It’s best to practice and have the gear onboard. That way, you can tackle the task and get back to sailing.

What is a mast ladder?

A mast ladder is one method to climb the mast of a sailboat for maintenance. Sailors often need to climb the mast to inspect the rigging, replace light bulbs, service wind instruments, or free tangled lines. 

Mast ladders are made of webbing and collapse for easy storage. When you want to use it, remove your mainsail from the mast track, and insert the slides from the ladder. Hoist the ladder with your main halyard, securing the bottom and tightening the line. Use a second halyard as a safety line if you lose your footing.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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• Navigating the High Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts are the unsung heroes of the sailing world, silently supporting the sails and ensuring a smooth journey across the open waters. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, understanding the intricacies of sailboat masts is essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of sailboat masts, discussing their types, maintenance, and everything in between. 

Types of Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts come in various configurations, each with its advantages and drawbacks. The two primary types are keel-stepped and deck-stepped masts.

Keel-Stepped Masts

Keel-stepped masts are the most common type, extending through the deck and resting on the boat's keel. They provide excellent stability and are suitable for larger sailboats. However, they require careful maintenance to prevent water intrusion into the boat's cabin.

Deck-Stepped Masts

Deck-stepped masts rest on the deck of the boat, making them easier to install and remove. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are more forgiving in terms of maintenance. However, they may offer slightly less stability than keel-stepped masts.

Components of a Sailboat Mast

To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves.

The masthead is the topmost section of the mast, where the halyards are attached to raise and lower the sails. It also often houses instruments such as wind indicators and lights.

Spreaders and Shrouds

Spreaders are horizontal supports attached to the mast to help maintain the proper angle of the shrouds (cables or rods that provide lateral support to the mast). Properly adjusted spreaders and shrouds are crucial for mast stability and sail performance.

Mast Materials: Choosing the Right One

Sailboat masts are typically constructed from three primary materials: aluminum, wood, and carbon fiber. Each material has its unique characteristics and is suited to different sailing preferences.

Aluminum Masts

Aluminum masts are lightweight, durable, and relatively easy to maintain. They are commonly used in modern sailboats due to their cost-effectiveness and longevity.

Wooden Masts

Wooden masts, while classic and beautiful, require more maintenance than other materials. They are best suited for traditional or vintage sailboats, where aesthetics outweigh convenience.

Carbon Fiber Masts

Carbon fiber masts are the pinnacle of mast technology. They are incredibly lightweight and strong, enhancing a sailboat's performance. However, they come at a premium price.

Mast Maintenance

Proper mast maintenance is essential for safety and longevity. Regular cleaning, inspection, and addressing minor issues promptly can prevent costly repairs down the line.

Cleaning and Inspection

Regularly clean your mast to remove salt, dirt, and grime. Inspect it for signs of corrosion, wear, or damage, paying close attention to the masthead, spreaders, and shrouds.

Common Repairs and Their Costs

Common mast repairs include fixing corroded areas, replacing damaged spreaders, or repairing shrouds. The cost of repairs can vary widely, depending on the extent of the damage and the materials used.

Extending the Lifespan of Your Mast

Taking steps to prevent damage is essential. Avoid over-tightening halyards, protect your mast from UV radiation, and keep an eye on corrosion-prone areas.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Stepping and unstepping a mast.

Stepping and unstepping a mast is a crucial skill for any sailboat owner. This process involves removing or installing the mast on your boat. Here's a step-by-step guide for safe mast handling.

Step-by-Step Guide for Safe Mast Handling

• Gather the necessary tools and equipment.
• Disconnect all electrical and rigging connections.
• Use a crane or mast-stepping system to safely lower or raise the mast.
• Secure the mast in its proper place.
• Reconnect all electrical and rigging connections.

When and Why to Unstep a Mast

You may need to unstep your mast for various reasons, such as transporting your sailboat or performing extensive maintenance. It's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and ensure a safe unstepping process.

Sailboat Mast Boot: Protecting Your Mast

A mast boot is a simple yet effective way to protect your mast from water intrusion and damage caused by the elements. Here's what you need to know.

The Purpose of a Mast Boot

A mast boot is a flexible material that wraps around the mast at the deck level. It prevents water from entering the cabin through the mast opening, keeping your boat dry and comfortable.

Installing and Maintaining a Mast Boot

Installing a mast boot is a straightforward DIY task. Regularly inspect and replace it if you notice any signs of wear or damage.

Replacing a Sailboat Mast

Despite your best efforts in maintenance, there may come a time when you need to replace your sailboat mast. Here's what you should consider.

Signs That Your Mast Needs Replacement

Common signs include severe corrosion, structural damage, or fatigue cracks. If your mast is beyond repair, it's essential to invest in a replacement promptly.

The Cost of Mast Replacement

The cost of mast replacement can vary significantly depending on the type of mast, materials, and additional rigging needed. It's advisable to obtain multiple quotes from reputable marine professionals.

Yacht Masts: Sailing in Style

For those looking to take their sailing experience to the next level, upgrading to a yacht mast can be a game-changer.

Differences Between Sailboat and Yacht Masts

Yacht masts are typically taller and offer enhanced sail performance. They are often equipped with advanced rigging systems and technology for a more luxurious sailing experience.

Upgrading to a Yacht Mast

Consult with a marine professional to determine if upgrading to a yacht mast is feasible for your sailboat. It can be a significant investment but can transform your sailing adventures.

Sailboat Mast Steps: Climbing to the Top

Mast steps are handy additions to your mast, allowing easier access to perform maintenance or enjoy panoramic views. Here's how to use them safely.

Using Mast Steps Safely

Always use proper safety equipment when climbing mast steps. Make sure they are securely attached to the mast and regularly inspect them for wear or damage.

The Advantages of Mast Steps

Mast steps provide convenience and accessibility, making sailboat maintenance tasks more manageable. They also offer an elevated vantage point for breathtaking views while at anchor.

Mast Maintenance Tips for Beginners

If you're new to sailboat ownership, these mast maintenance tips will help you get started on the right foot.

Essential Care for First-Time Sailboat Owners

• Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
• Seek advice from experienced sailors.
• Invest in quality cleaning and maintenance products.

Preventing Common Mistakes

Avoid common pitfalls, such as neglecting inspections or using harsh cleaning agents that can damage your mast's finish.

Sailing with a Mast in Top Condition

A well-maintained mast contributes to a safer and more enjoyable sailing experience. It enhances your boat's performance and ensures you can rely on it in various weather conditions.

How a Well-Maintained Mast Improves Performance

A properly maintained mast helps maintain sail shape, reducing drag and improving speed. It also ensures that your rigging remains strong and secure.

Safety Considerations

Never compromise on safety. Regularly inspect your mast, rigging, and all associated components to prevent accidents while at sea.

Sailboat masts are the backbone of any sailing adventure, and understanding their intricacies is crucial for a successful voyage. From choosing the right mast material to proper maintenance and upgrading options, this guide has covered it all. By following these guidelines, you can sail the high seas with confidence, knowing that your mast is in top condition.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Kliner Nguyenová

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Rise Up! How to Raise Your Sailboat Mast

Posted by Zoran Glozinic | Dogwatch , Projects , Sails & Canvas

Spring is here and marinas will soon be filled with mast-raisers. And while the world is filled (to the brim?) with mast-raising solutions, I have another. I believe my method is possibly the simplest solution most applicable to a wide range of boats. It allows a sailor to raise a mast independently, without a crane, affording freedom. It also enables a sailor to do it by themself. And while most mast-raising solutions require various panoply of items a sailor needs to either purchase or fabricate—various gin poles, A-frames, lifting poles, winches, 2×6 boards, lawn-mower wheels, and mast supports mounted to rudder fittings on the transom—and while sailors who trailer their boats to various waters have to carry all of that with them, the solution I’ve come up with uses a very small amount of extra equipment, so small it can almost be carried in one’s pocket.

Everything rigged and mast ready to be raised with a tug on the mainsheet.

So, what is required and how do you rig it?

• First, to use my solution, your mast should have a mast base/step or tabernacle on which the mast can pivot. This is common.
• Next, there will need to be an attachment point on either side of the boat, aligned with the mast pivoting point—athwartships and on the same axis. You might need to get creative here because each boat is different. The two attachment points (eyes are fine) can be permanent (as in this photo), or they can be made using a steel ring and two short lengths of steel wire or chain temporarily attached to an existing hardpoint. The wider these attachment points are spaced, the better, because they serve as hardpoints to attach two sets of temporary shrouds.
• About seven feet above the mast step (or as high as you can comfortably reach up the mast when it’s vertical) on either side of the mast, there must be tangs or permanent mounts to attach the mast-supporting set of temporary shrouds. I used a length of ¼-inch threaded rod that passes through the mast and through two small hardwood blocks and two small tangs made from mild steel. I install these tangs when needed, using wingnuts. When sailing, there is nothing on the mast to snag halyards, and the two small holes are not something I worry about.

And that is it for boat modifications.

Mast successfully raised, note the athwartships attachment points on the dorade boxes and the two sets of temporary shrouds.

A close-up view of the athwartships attachment points.

To raise and lower the mast, I rig things and operate as follows. In this example, the mast is attached to a pivoting base and stowed lowered onto the bow pulpit.

• Between the athwartships attachment points and the mast tangs, I attach a set of temporary shrouds. These I made from coated wire rope (the same as used for lifelines). These will remain taut for the duration of the mast raising or lowering (because they’re attached on the same axis on which the mast pivots) and serve to prevent the mast from swaying from side to side.
• I attach the boom like I’m ready to sail, 90 degrees to the mast, connected to the gooseneck fitting and with the topping lift and end-of-boom mainsheet rigged. I use the main halyard and boom downhaul to keep the gooseneck fixed (so it cannot slide up or down, if track-mounted).
• Between the athwartships attachment points and the clew end of the boom, I attach a second set of temporary shrouds. These I made from low-stretch braided line and they will also remain taut for the entire mast raising and lowering.
• Once all set, I pull on the mainsheet (rigged with 4:1 block-and-tackle for purchase) to raise the mast. It’s relatively easy and the mast remains in control; I can stop and start at any point in the process if needed.

If my mast was instead pivoted aft and stowed on an aft-rail support, I could still use the same method, but I would have to attach a separate gooseneck fitting on the front of the mast and some separate running rigging to function as the topping lift does.

Happy spring mast raising!

One nice-to-have modification I’ve made is to the pulpit where my mast rests when stowed. I made a wooden mast support mounted on the bow rail. The rubber roller has two positions: the lower position is used for winter mast storage, and the upper position allows for easy mast sliding, fore and aft, when getting it to the exact position in order to install (remove) the pivoting bolt/pin at the mast base or tabernacle. When not in use, I stow this support at the bottom of a sail locker.

About The Author

Zoran Glozinic

Zoran Glozinic is a retired business professional who has been messing around in boats and old cars all his life. He currently lives in Laval, Quebec, where he divides his free time between a good old English bilge-keel boat and a 16-year-old Saab car.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Hoisting and lowering the mainsail: troubleshooting problems

• David Harding
• September 9, 2024

What can you do if your mainsail is hard to hoist or reluctant to drop? David Harding offers some advice

It might be seen as racing practice, but hoisting at the mast and tailing from the cockpit reduces friction and can make life a lot easier

Earlier this year, I was sailing with a friend on a boat he was thinking of buying .

On the way back in, as you do, we put the sails away: we rolled away the headsails (it was a cutter) and lowered the mainsail and mizzen (it was also a ketch).  At least, we tried to lower the mizzen.

Motoring directly into a gentle breeze , we released the halyard and the head came down a couple of feet. Then it stopped.

The sail was tiny; barely larger than that of a small dinghy .

It had little roach and was fitted with ordinary plastic slides – only they didn’t want to slide, even when I stood on top of the wheelhouse and pulled down on the luff.

There was only one quick answer: I had to shin up the mast, stand on the spreaders , reach up and work the slides down.

When you’re bouncing around out at sea, you don’t want to find yourself struggling to lower the mainsail. All photos credit David Harding

A few weeks later I had to go up to the hounds on a 12m (40ft) performance cruiser because the roller-reefing headsail had jammed halfway in.

It was a straightforward temporary fix with a lashing – ‘straightforward’ being a relative term when you’re bouncing around up there – but twice in half a season for that sort of thing is unusual.

It makes you think about what you would do in situations when you’re not able to go aloft.

Returning to our ketch, shinning up the mizzen under any circumstances would not have been an option for the prospective owner or his wife.

Being stuck with a sail that won’t come down is potentially dangerous.

And the mainsail on this boat wasn’t much better: it only dropped about halfway on its own.

The angled pull of the halyard means that the head of a sail will often need to be fitted with a car that can take the compression

Significantly, both sails had gone up without too much grunt but, as is often the case with mainsails (or other sails hoisted up a groove in the back of a mast), what goes up doesn’t always come down quite so readily.

You’re working against gravity one way and friction the other.

Sometimes on the hoist, you’re fighting both gravity and friction.

And on the drop, as we’ve seen, friction can all too readily overcome gravity.

That the sails on some boats don’t go up and down quickly and easily is something that owners often learn to live with: they just winch a bit harder on the way up, pull a bit harder on the way down, or learn to compensate somehow.

That’s OK most of the time, but work-arounds are not really the answer.

More often than not, you’re hoisting and lowering sails in confined waters with other boats around and plenty of distractions too.

That’s when you really don’t need any snags.

How the mainsail works

In principle, it all sounds simple enough. The mast-maker makes the mast with a groove in the back.

The sailmaker puts slides on the sail that fi t in the groove, and away you go.

In the case of a wooden mast, the track is fitted to the back.

One problem is the number of different sections of luff groove. If you buy a new European production cruiser in the UK, chances are it will have a mast made by Seldén, Z Spars or Sparcraft, though there are others.

They all have different grooves so, if you’re buying a new sail for a secondhand boat, you need to make sure the sailmaker fits the right slides.

Four mast sections, four different luff grooves – and there are many more

If he doesn’t, keep a monkey on board or have the bosun’s chair at the ready.

The worrying thing is that even new or nearly-new boats can have problems if the sailmaker and spar-maker either haven’t spoken to each other or if the builder has asked the sailmaker for the cheapest possible set of sails (yes, it happens) and they’re fitted with hardware that’s not up to the job.

The ketch with the troublesome mizzen was only a few years old and had hardly been sailed.

When I asked the sailmaker, he replied that it had all worked when he fitted the sails, though many aspects of the sails and sail-handling systems were a complete dog’s breakfast.

If you’re ordering a new sail, whether for a new(ish) boat or an older one, the sailmaker will need to know the make and the age of the mast.

Well-established lofts run by people who have been in the business for a long time will probably recognise most mast sections from a photograph.

Some have copies of spar-makers’ literature and technical drawings going back decades, which can be invaluable.

If you’re dealing with a new kid on the block who takes the order and gets the sails made on the far side of the world, you will want to satisfy yourself before parting with any money.

Mainsail troubleshooting: Sliding and rolling

So far we have talked about ‘slides’ in general terms. In practice, the parts that slide up and down the mast range from simple plastic slugs with no moving parts, as typically found on short-batten sails and between the battens on fully battened sails, via the long-established Rutgerson roller slides to cars with ball bearings that run on external tracks.

These are designed to take the compressive loads of large mainsails with full-length battens and lots of roach.

The type of slides or cars you have on your sail will depend on its size, the roach and the number of battens, among other factors.

You should discuss this with your sailmaker.

Slugs, slides and rollers of all descriptions – but which one will fit?

Especially with full-length battens, the linkage between the slider/car and the luff of the sail is also important, both to ensure that the luff is kept the right distance from the mast in between the battens and that compression when the sail is being lowered doesn’t cause jams – which it often does.

With fully-battened sails becoming increasingly popular, choosing the appropriate hardware is vital.

But bear in mind that cars that will fit the mast won’t necessarily fit through the gate at the bottom of the luff groove.

The gate might have to be changed.

You will probably also need to have mast-gate surgery if changing from a mainsail with a bolt-rope, which calls for a luff-feeder and a simple entry to the groove some way up the mast, to a sail with slides.

Mainsail troubleshooting. Overcoming friction: the hoist

Check your slides.

If they’re the wrong ones or simply not up to spec, you’re fighting a losing battle.

Clean the luff groove

An accumulation of dirt and debris will increase friction. Clean the groove with a cloth and soapy water.

Crusader Sails suggests feeding a knotted J Cloth into the groove through the gate.

Using a J Cloth and soapy water to clean the luff groove can make a big difference

Attach a halyard, not forgetting a downhaul too, and run it up and down.

It’s probably best not to follow up the cleaning by using lubricants.

With the right slides/cars and a clean luff groove, they shouldn’t be necessary and can simply attract more dirt.

Check your masthead sheave

If the rig was designed for a wire halyard, the masthead sheave will probably be aluminium on a stainless steel pin.

Over the years the reaction between the two metals will quite possibly jam the sheave.

When did you last check your halyard sheave? Changing it will usually mean lowering the mast

Changing the sheave will usually mean lowering the mast.

Old Tufnol sheaves often keep working longer.

A halyard can also jam after coming off a sheave.

Hoist at the mast

For the past few decades, it has become the norm for halyards to be led aft so they can be handled from the cockpit.

This means the halyard goes from the head of the sail, around the masthead sheave, back down and out of the mast, through a block on deck, probably through a deck organiser and then back to a clutch on the aft end of the coachroof.

The 180° turn around the masthead sheave is unavoidable, but the additional turns necessary to lead a halyard aft will inevitably add friction.

As Paul Lees of Crusader points out, friction throughout the path of the halyard isn’t just cumulative; it multiplies in the same way that a purchase does.

So three friction points plus another three mean you’re working against a friction factor of nine, not six.

Racing crews jump halyards at the mast for many reasons, usually with someone else tailing in the cockpit.

While some cruising folk might baulk at the idea of adopting what they see as racing practice, this method has much in its favour if you have two people aboard.

As long as the halyard’s exit sheave on the mast is above head-height, one of the crew sweats the halyard while the other takes up the slack through the clutch.

If you have never tried it this way, you might be surprised how much easier it is.

Should the halyard’s exit sheave be at deck level, however, this isn’t going to work.

It might be worth having it moved.

Even if you’re single-handed, you can hoist at the mast through a clutch, then close the clutch and take up the tail from the cockpit.

Check your hardware

If you habitually hoist from the cockpit, it’s worth making sure that friction between the halyard’s exit sheave and the winch is minimised by replacing any blocks and organisers that are old and tired.

New ball-bearing blocks will make a vast difference – and they will help on the drop too.

Check your halyard

Ropes become harder and stiffer through exposure to dirt, salt, UV light and being under tension over the years.

Lines become harder and stiffer with age. Replacing your halyards might be part of the answer

That means they won’t turn corners so freely and will also be harder to handle.

Check your winches

If you’re still having problems hoisting from the cockpit, think about the winching.

Working under a sprayhood can make it awkward to swing a winch handle efficiently. Has the halyard winch been serviced recently?

Do you have space for a longer handle? Would a self-tailer help? (Almost certainly, for a price.) Do you simply need the power of a bigger winch?

Would an electric winch be the answer? Or how about an electric winch handle , such as the one made by WinchRite?

Electric halyard winches need to be treated with caution: pulling the headboard out of the mainsail is not a good idea.

Do not pull the slack out of your reefing pennants!

It can be tempting to tension the reef pennants after dropping the sail, but hoisting again will be much easier if you don’t

Do not pull reefing pennants through the boom to take up the slack once the sail is stowed.

Leave them loose and just tuck them inside the sail. If you pull them through, you have all that friction to work against when next hoisting the sail, especially with an endless or single-line system.

The casting at the end of the boom, and the sheaves that it houses for the outhaul and reefing pennants, are often too narrow for the diameter of the line anyway.

Don’t make life harder for yourself.

Fit a 2:1 halyard

Some boats with large, heavily roached, fully-battened sails use 2:1 halyards. The purchase reduces the load and, therefore, the stretch on the halyard (which can be of smaller diameter).

Leading halyards aft means extra hardware, so make sure it’s good quality to minimise friction when raising or lowering the mainsail

There’s less load on the clutch too.

Hoisting will take up to twice as long and you will need a much longer halyard, so 2:1 systems are not widely used on smaller cruising yachts; nor should they be necessary.

The potential perils of adding power

If your mainsail is hard to hoist, look first at ways of reducing friction.

Increasing hoisting power to overcome avoidable friction is not the best solution.

An electric winch handle, like this one by WinchRite, won’t remove friction on the hoist but might help overcome it

When the skipper of one large yacht applied the power of its hydraulics to hoist a recalcitrant mainsail, the masthead sheave and pin came down from aloft like a missile.

They took a chunk out of the deck and would have killed anyone standing in their way.

Overcoming friction: the drop

Most of the steps you take to reduce friction on the hoist will also help on the drop.

But when the halyard is released rather than pulling the sail up, different factors come into play.

The luff tends to be pushed into the back of the mast, for example, particularly with full-length battens, so the type of cars/slides and the attachment between them and the batten box become critical.

If a sail is awkward to lower at the best of times, it might be nigh-on impossible if it has to come down under less-than-ideal circumstances, such as with the wind on the beam

Fitting a downhaul line attached to the head can help, especially if you find yourself in a situation where you have to pull the sail down with the wind abaft the beam, for example.

One fundamental point is to ensure the halyard is totally free to run.

Once a sail starts to come down, make it easy for it to gather momentum and drop all the way.

The smoothest solutions

A conventional short-batten sail might be fine with ordinary plastic slides. Or, depending on its size and other factors, it might not.

That’s where a different system can bring about a transformation.

Here are some examples.

Seldén MDS and OWS cars

Some time ago now, Seldén changed their mast sections, increasing the chord (fore-and-aft measurement) and, at the same time, modifying the luff groove to accommodate a new type of car: the MDS (multi-directional support).

Seldén’s MDS slides have six wheels running inside the mast groove to counter loads from any direction

It has six wheels, all inside the luff groove, the idea being that they will continue to run smoothly from whatever direction the load is coming from.

Before the MDS, the OWS (outer wheel sliders) cars had four wheels running on the aft face of the mast.

External tracks and cars

Harken, Ronstan and Facnor supply ball-bearing cars that run on tracks bolted to the back of the mast.

This is Facnor’s track system with ball-bearing cars – low friction, but not an inexpensive solution

These are well-established and a good way to minimise friction, but they add weight and are not cheap.

Tides Marine

Despite having been around for over 20 years, Tides Marine ’s SailTrack system has remained a remarkably well-kept secret.

I only came across it when Jim Macgregor was fitting it to his Elan 40 as part of his racer-to-cruiser conversion.

I then suggested that the owner of the ketch mentioned at the start of this article fit it for both mainsail and mizzen.

Tides Marine’s SailTrack system with the stainless steel slides makes raising and lowering the mainsail easier

Essentially it’s a plastic track, supplied in one length, that simply slides up the luff groove.

It’s a fraction of the weight and cost of an external track and quicker and easier to fit, especially as the whole job can be completed from deck level.

Stainless steel slides run up and down the track, with no moving parts involved.

A conventional external track-and car system might work with larger mainsails, but I heard recently of a Tides Marine system being used successfully on a 14m (47ft) Dazcat, so it will certainly cater for most people.

PBO conclusion

If you’re having a new sail made, ask what hardware your sailmaker recommends and why.

If your existing sail is giving you grief, looking at the points raised in this feature should help. Or perhaps your halyards are crossed inside the mast.

Some of the solutions will cost you a J Cloth and a squirt of soap.

Others will cost a little more, but quite possibly less than you might imagine.

As we’re dealing with sailing boats, it could be argued that the ability to set and strike your canvas quickly and efficiently is fundamental for convenience, comfort and safety.

How to rig a spinnaker on a small yacht – what you need and where to fit it

If you want a spinnaker, but don’t have the necessary fittings or equipment on your boat, where do you start?…

Sail trim: Sailing downwind without a spinnaker

Sailing efficiently when the wind comes astern doesn’t mean you have to fly a spinnaker or cruising chute. David Harding…

Mainsail trimming in light airs

How to go to windward fast

Heaving to: a question of balance

How tricky is heaving to, and how much does it vary from boat to boat? We tried four different hull…

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Mast climbing for shorthanded crews

• Katy Stickland
• July 1, 2020

Professional skipper Simon Philips shares his method for mast climbing safely and confidently with only one other crewmember aboard

While large crews have lots of manpower to send someone aloft, small crews can still do it safely

Mast climbing is a skill some sailors love to put into practice, while others, even seasoned professional yachtsmen, loathe the dizzying heights involved in even the simplest of mast-top maintenance tasks, writes Simon Philips.

Modern yachts, often with precious little in the way of steps to climb, in most cases rely on a safe system of lines to get up and down the mast, which can be pretty daunting.

No matter whether you are mast climbing to change a bulb in the tricolour on a windless day alongside in a marina, or freeing up a jammed line that’s much more critical out at sea, having a routine that’s well practiced is at the heart of making mast climbing safe and stress free.

Large crews can easily hoist someone aloft, but it is still possible for small crews

Practice and preparation is key.

Getting familiar with the techniques and equipment will mean you’re better equipped 
to go aloft should the need arise at sea, which will inevitably be when you least expect it.

When I train round-the-world yacht race
 crews on their 70ft yachts, ideally there are
 seven people involved, just to hoist one 
up the mast.

I have two separate halyards involved and I have two people on a grinder, 
two people tailing (one per winch), two people
 on the clutches and one person watching the person going aloft who tells everyone what 
to do.

This way, there is a great safety margin involved.

But even when shorthanded, it’s still possible to go climb the mast safely.

1 Prepare to mast climb

Ensure the person going aloft has all they need with them

Prepare the person going aloft.

They should have shoes rather than bare feet, a comfortable bosun’s chair
 or climbing harness, and a helmet (cycling, skiing or kayaking) to help prevent head injuries.

Take a smartphone, so a photo
 can be sent to someone on the deck if necessary, saving a second hoist, and 
put your basic tools in the pocket of the bosun’s chair.

Ideally, all loose items should be attached by lanyards so that they can’t be dropped on to the deck

Using two halyards is a must to ensure the safety of the person aloft.

Decide which is the primary halyard and which is the safety halyard.

Use only halyards that are internal to the mast, like a headsail or mainsail halyard, as these go into the mast around 6-8ft off the deck and exit near the top.

Never use external halyards – if the block at the masthead fails then you’ll be freefalling on to the deck.

For an alternative method of using two halyards, but only winching one, you can read about and watch the video of this safe method in our practical guide to climbing a mast solo and double handed. 

3 Get comfortable

Get in the chair and bounce in it just 
off the deck to ensure it is comfortable and adjusted correctly.

Tie bowlines through the lifting part of the harness.

Never rely on a shackle as this may come undone or fail.

Once you’ve done this with both halyards, you’re set to go.

Hoisting the person can be tiring work.

The person aloft can assist greatly by pulling themselves up, but care must be taken to stay safely in the chair or harness.

Keep three turns on the winch and a clutch closed on the primary halyard.

This halyard has their full weight on it at all times.

5 Safety line

As you’re hoisting, stop every couple of metres or so and pull in the slack of the safety line and secure. See alternative double handed mast climbing method of using a prusik line on a static halyard made off at the mast base. 

This 
should also be through a clutch and on a
 winch.

If this is not possible, make the lead
 fair to a cleat and secure.

6 Secure aloft

When they are at the desired height, tension the safety line by hand and secure both lines.

On the winch, use a tugboat hitch and move away from the mast 
in case they drop something.

7 Flake the halyard

While they are up the mast, flake out
 both of the halyards so these can run free when they’re being lowered.

8 Lower away

Lowering can be tricky unless you 
have the correct amount of friction
 in the lines – both primary and safety lines.

Ideally, the person being lowered would like to be lowered smoothly all the way down.

Having too much friction on the lines results 
in having to ease by hand on the winch, which bounces them all the way down.

The number
 of turns will depend upon the size of the winch, the make of the winch (some manufacturers’ winches have more friction than others), and
 the type and diameter of the halyard used.

It’s likely to be at least two or three turns.

Lower as smoothly as possible, always keeping an eye on what’s going on above you

Lower them hand over hand for the smoothest journey down.

The man aloft pulls through a couple of metres of one of the lines, the person on deck secures it, then eases the other halyard until both halyards are tight.

Repeat this process
 until they are on deck, keeping an eye on them all the way down.

Gear for going aloft

Well-chosen gear that will keep you safe and comfortable.

A helmet can protect you from serious injury

A helmet is never a bad idea for going aloft
 when alongside or at anchor, but it is a must
 in any kind of seaway as one wave swinging 
you into the rigging could cause serious injury.

Lightweight climbing
 or kayaking models that also protect the side of the head are ideal but a bike helmet will also do.

Ensure the chinstrap is short and any excess is tucked in to prevent it getting caught in anything whilst aloft.

Available for under £25, a helmet is a worthwhile part of your boat’s kit.

For helmet options and other safety climbing gear we have a smart buyers guide. 

Mast ladder

A mast-climbing ladder can be invaluable, taking the strain off the crew on deck. Credit: Colin Work

One popular addition amongst shorthanded cruisers to their mast-climbing kit is a ladder.

Available in various forms, they are particularly helpful in taking the strain out of getting someone aloft, allowing the crewmember going up the mast to gain purchase themselves.

A climbing ascender can be used in an emergency. Check that the model you are using is designed for the diameter of your halyard. Credit: Colin Work

Ascenders are an alternative method of climbing a single rope.

Ideal for singlehanded sailors, they can also be used 
in tandem.

This is a useful bit of emergency kit that can also be connected to your second line 
to provide a safety line that isn’t dependent on the crew on deck

Things to avoid going aloft

• Never use a halyard that’s routed through
 an external block running outside the mast
• Avoid old halyards and those showing any sign of chafing or wear
• Shackles or quick-release karabiners 
should not be used. Always tie directly
 into the harness or bosun’s chair to
 ensure there is one less point of failure
• Never go aloft in a harness that doesn’t
 sit tight above your hips

Bosun’s chair or harness?

The traditional piece of kit to haul someone aloft is a bosun’s chair.

Most designs have a central tie point that’s in line with the sternum when loaded.

Chairs are generally more comfortable than their harness counterparts, due to how they spread the load and the more relaxed seating position, ideal when you’re embarking on a big job up
 the mast that will keep you there for a while.

Even the most basic bosun’s chair is more comfortable than a harness

The chair you buy should be purpose-built
 for use on yachts and deep enough in the seat
 to ensure you feel safe and comfortable.

The work you are doing up the mast shouldn’t take you out of the seat as, unlike a climbing harness, a bosun’s chair won’t keep you secure if you end up inverted; most designs rely on the user’s weight to be safe.

If you are going to take your own weight out of the seat aloft, on a mast step or spreaders for example, be sure to use a harness.

More expensive models generally offer more padding and pockets

Chairs vary in design and suit different body shapes – be sure to try before you buy.

A pocket for tools, preferably with a flap
 to keep contents secure, is very useful.

Any
 items you put in trouser pockets will probably 
be hard to access once in the seat, whilst drawing anything from a pocket that’s not vertically opening is asking for the item to be dropped.

For larger items, attach a bucket on a rope, ensuring it doesn’t interfere with the lines holding you aloft.

Simon Phillips has cruised and raced over 325,000 miles, including 34 Atlantic crossings

Anything dangerous if dropped should be secured with a lanyard, whilst heavy loads should be supported by their own halyard.

A climbing harness is the alternative option 
to a bosun’s chair, although they are less flexible on body size and it’s crucial that the harness fits; climbing harnesses are designed to hold the wearer secure above the hips.

Allowing more freedom of movement in exchange for less comfort, harnesses are ideal for going up the mast at sea.

Some professional models secure the upper body as well and even include a seat that can be dropped down when in position aloft.

Both harnesses and bosun’s chairs should 
be stored clean and dry to prevent degradation of the material.

If you enjoyed reading this, you may also like:

A buyers guide to mast climbing gear and practical expert method for single handed mast climbing

7 mast climbing kits on test

12 Bosuns chairs tested

How to climb a mast safely at sea with Pip Hare

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Mast for Sailboat: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing and Maintaining

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 25, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer mast for sailboat:

The mast is a vertical spar or pole on a sailboat that supports the sails. It plays a crucial role in determining the performance and handling of the boat, as well as providing stability and control. The mast is typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber to provide strength and durability while keeping it lightweight.

Choosing the Perfect Mast for Your Sailboat: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction: When it comes to sailboats, the mast plays a vital role in determining the overall performance and stability of your vessel. Choosing the perfect mast for your sailboat is not a task to be taken lightly, as it requires careful consideration of various factors. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the intricate world of masts and provide you with all the information you need to make an informed decision.

Understanding Masts: A mast is essentially a vertical pole that supports the sails on a sailboat. It acts as a primary structural element, providing stability and allowing sailors to harness the power of the wind. However, not all masts are created equal. The material, height, and shape of your mast can significantly impact your boat’s speed, maneuverability, and even its durability.

Materials Matter: One crucial aspect to consider when choosing a mast is its material composition. Aluminum, carbon fiber, and wood are three common options available today. Aluminum masts are durable and relatively affordable but might lack some of the performance advantages provided by carbon fiber counterparts. Carbon fiber masts offer superior strength-to-weight ratios, ultimately enhancing speed and responsiveness. On the other hand, wooden masts exude a classic charm while requiring meticulous maintenance.

Height vs. Stability: Another key consideration is the height of your mast. A taller mast may allow for more sail area and therefore increased boat speed in optimal wind conditions. However, taller masts also raise concerns regarding stability during gusts or rough seas. Preference should be given to striking a balance between height and stability based on your sailing style and intended use.

Shape for Performance: The shape of your mast can greatly influence aerodynamics and consequently impact your sailboat’s performance on different points of sail (such as upwind or downwind). Understanding concepts like rake angle (the angle at which the mast leans backward) can optimize your boat’s balance and responsiveness. A perfectly tuned mast shape can significantly enhance speed and maneuverability while minimizing weather helm (the tendency of a boat to turn into the wind).

Tailoring to Your Sailboat: No sailboat is created equal, and therefore each requires a specific mast design that suits its characteristics. Factors such as displacement, sail area, and hull shape should be taken into account when selecting your mast. Larger, heavier boats may require stronger masts for added support, while smaller boats might benefit from lighter options to maximize performance potential.

Finding Expert Advice: Choosing the perfect mast for your sailboat can be an overwhelming decision. Thus, seeking advice from experienced sailors or consulting with mast manufacturers becomes paramount. Experts in the field can provide valuable insights based on their knowledge and experience, guiding you towards a well-informed choice that aligns with your sailing goals.

Conclusion: Investing time and effort into choosing the perfect mast for your sailboat is essential for optimizing performance and ensuring an enjoyable sailing experience. By considering factors like material composition, height versus stability, shape for performance, tailoring to your sailboat’s needs, and seeking expert advice, you will be well-equipped to make a wise decision that enhances both safety and exhilaration on the water. So set sail with confidence knowing that you have chosen the ideal mast for your beloved sailboat!

How to Install a Mast on Your Sailboat: Step-by-Step Instructions

Title: How to Seamlessly Install a Mast on Your Sailboat: A Nautical Masterpiece Unveiled!

Introduction: Picture this: the open sea, wind in your hair, and the rhythmic sound of waves crashing against your sailboat. But there’s just one problem; you need to install a mast. Fear not! In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of installing a mast on your beloved sailboat. So grab your toolbelt and let’s embark on this thrilling journey!

Step 1: Prepare for Smooth Sailing Before diving into the installation process, ensure that you have all the necessary tools and materials at hand. These may include a crane or hoist (depending on boat size), shackles, bolts, wires, winches, and most importantly, patience calm as the sea.

Step 2: Positioning is Everything Now that you’re ready to establish yourself as captain of mast installation, find an appropriate spot to position your sailboat. Look for an area with ample overhead clearance and enough space to maneuver safely.

Step 3: Assess and Assemble Time to unleash your inner sailor! Begin by unwrapping your brand-new mast – like opening a glorious treasure chest from the sea. Familiarize yourself with its components – spreaders, rigging wires, halyards – understanding how they seamlessly merge together like crew members preparing for an epic adventure.

Step 4: Standing Tall – Raising the Mast With reliable hands at work (possibly recruit some strong friends), use a crane or hoist to carefully raise the mast towards its rightful spot on your sailboat’s deck. Maintain communication with those assisting you and adapt swiftly if any hiccups arise; teamwork makes this dream work!

Step 5: Finishing Touches – Securing Your Mast As home stretch approaches like reaching harbor after an eventful voyage, it’s time to securely fasten your mast. Attach the spreaders on either side, ensuring they align correctly with the angles set by your sail’s design. Don’t forget to tighten all rigging wires and secure them with appropriate shackles.

Step 6: Set Sail – Rigging Your Boat The final act awaits- rigging your sailboat! It’s a dance of halyards, winches, and cunning knots as you ensure every rope falls into its designated place. Pay meticulous attention to the right tension in each wire or line, for this will determine the responsiveness of your sailboat as it glides through the water.

Conclusion: And there you have it, intrepid sailors – a detailed guide outlining how to install a mast on your beloved sailboat like a true seafaring expert. With careful preparation, steady hands, and an eye for detail, you’ll now be able to navigate the open waters with confidence. Remember that patience is key throughout this process – just as it is when sailing across vast oceans. So hoist those sails high and let adventure unfurl before you; may fair winds always fill your sails!

Frequently Asked Questions about Masts for Sailboats, Answered

Introduction:

Sailboats are elegant and beautiful vessels that rely on various components to navigate the open waters. One of the most crucial aspects of a sailboat is its mast, which provides support for the sails and ultimately determines how well the boat performs. In this blog post, we will dive deep into frequently asked questions about masts for sailboats, providing detailed professional explanations in a witty and clever manner.

1. What material is commonly used to build sailboat masts?

Answer: Sailboat masts are typically constructed using either aluminum or carbon fiber. Aluminum masts offer excellent durability, affordability, and ease of maintenance. On the other hand, carbon fiber masts provide superior strength-to-weight ratios, resulting in increased speed and performance on the water. So whether you choose aluminum or carbon fiber depends on your budget, sailing goals, and desired performance level.

2. How can I determine if my sailboat mast needs maintenance or replacement?

Answer: Regular inspections are essential to identify any signs of wear and tear on your mast. Look for corrosion spots or cracks in an aluminum mast’s paintwork and pay attention to any delamination or structural issues in a carbon fiber mast. If you notice significant damage that compromises the structural integrity of the mast or affects its ability to hold sails properly, it’s recommended to seek professional assistance for repairs or replacement.

3. Are there different types of sailboat masts available?

Answer: Yes! Sailboat masts come in various designs tailored to different sailing styles. The most common types include keel-stepped masts (placed through the deck directly onto a keel), deck-stepped masts (resting solely on deck), and tabernacle-mounted masts (pivotable at their base for easier stepping). Each type has its advantages depending on factors like boat size, ease of stepping/unstepping while trailering or storing during winter months.

4. Can I adjust the height of my sailboat mast?

Answer: Technically, yes! Some sailboats offer adjustable masts to optimize performance based on wind conditions and sailing style. Typically seen in racing or high-performance boats, adjustable masts allow for fine-tuning the sails’ shape and tension. However, adjusting the mast requires careful consideration to avoid compromising its structural integrity or risking damage to the boat.

5. How do I choose the right mast for my sailboat?

Answer: Selecting the appropriate mast involves considering several factors, including boat size, design, intended use (racing or cruising), and budget constraints. Consulting with a marine engineer or experienced sailor can provide insight into finding the perfect match for your sailboat. It’s crucial to strike a balance between cost-effectiveness, performance enhancement, and compatibility with other rigging components.

6. Can I install additional equipment on my sailboat mast?

Answer: Absolutely! Sailboat masts serve as ideal structures to mount various equipment such as antennas, radar devices, wind instruments, or even cameras for capturing those amazing moments at sea. When adding additional gear to your mast, ensure that it doesn’t affect its stability or interfere with any existing rigging systems.

Conclusion:

Sailboat masts are integral components that deserve thorough understanding and care. We hope this comprehensive FAQ session has shed light on some common queries while providing professional explanations in a witty and clever manner. By maintaining your sailboat’s mast diligently and choosing wisely when it comes to materials and types of masts available, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying smooth sailing experiences for years to come!

The Role of the Mast in Sailing: Unveiling its Importance

When it comes to sailing, we often picture a majestic sailboat gliding effortlessly through the water, propelled solely by the wind. But have you ever wondered how this seemingly magical feat is achieved? The answer lies in one crucial component of any sailboat – the mast.

The mast, often towering high above the deck, serves as both a principal support and a prime mover for the sails. Its intricate role goes far beyond merely holding up a sail; it plays a pivotal part in harnessing wind power and directing it towards propelling the boat forward. Join us as we delve into the world of sailing and unveil the true importance of this remarkable structure.

At first glance, an untrained eye may perceive a mast as nothing more than a tall pole attached to a boat. However, this oversimplified perspective fails to capture its true significance. Crafted from sturdy materials such as wood or aluminum, modern masts are engineered to provide strength while maximizing flexibility – both critical factors when dealing with forces as powerful and unpredictable as wind.

The primary function of the mast is to support the sails and distribute their loads evenly throughout the hull. It acts as an anchor point for numerous rigging elements essential for maintaining optimal sail shape and control. Without a properly rigged mast, sails would flap uncontrollably in turbulent winds or fail to catch enough breeze during calm conditions – rendering them ineffective at generating propulsion.

Furthermore, masts play an active role in steering maneuvers by guiding airflow over sails with precision. Regulating sail-trim adjustments by altering mast angle – known as raking – significantly affects performance under various wind conditions. By tilting forward or backward strategically, sailors can optimize their boat’s response to even slight alterations in wind direction or speed.

This manipulation of mast position also helps sailors adjust their course relative to points from which they cannot directly sail due to unfavorable wind angles – a technique known as tacking or jibing. By exploiting the mast’s rotational capabilities, sailors skillfully navigate through wind changes, circumventing obstacles and ensuring the boat is always on its intended path.

To further enhance maneuverability, sailboats often feature multiple masts. While larger boats can sport numerous masts interconnected with complex rigging systems, smaller vessels may have just one or two. The number of masts directly affects a boat’s sail area, power, and stability. Cleverly employing the right combination of masts allows sailors to adapt their craft to a wide range of sailing conditions – from leisurely cruises under mild winds to exhilarating races pushed to the limits by gales.

Beyond its functional importance and practicality, the mast has long symbolized adventure and exploration throughout history. A soaring mast beckons intrepid seafarers to embark on their next voyage in search of distant shores or new horizons. It embodies freedom and the thrill of chasing dreams across vast oceans.

So next time you catch a glimpse of a sailboat effortlessly gliding through waves, remember that its true magic lies behind that tall towering mast. It serves as an indomitable force not only supporting sails but also capturing and unleashing immeasurable potential locked within the wind. Pay homage to this vital component as it continues to shape the world of sailing – silently guiding us towards new adventures upon uncharted waters.

Exploring Different Types of Masts for Sailboats: Which One is Right for You?

When it comes to sailing, one of the most crucial components of a sailboat is undoubtedly the mast. It not only provides structural support but also plays a vital role in determining the overall performance and capabilities of the vessel. However, with different types of masts available, understanding their characteristics and choosing the right one can be a daunting task for any sailor. In this blog post, we will explore various types of masts for sailboats and help you make an informed decision on which one suits your needs.

First up is the classic “Bermudan” mast, named after its association with Bermuda-rigged sailboats. This type of mast features a single triangular mainsail that is typically mounted in front of the mast, known as a fractional rig. This configuration offers superior upwind performance due to its ability to create an efficient aerodynamic shape. The Bermudan mast allows sailors to easily adjust sail settings by changing halyard tension or by adding reef points to control wind power in challenging conditions. If you are looking for a versatile mast that excels in different wind angles and offers excellent cruising capabilities, then the Bermudan mast might be an ideal choice.

Next on our list is the “Gaff” mast—an older design often associated with traditional or classic boats. Recognized by its larger fore-and-aft sails and distinctive triangular shaped topsail called the gaff, this type of rig adds charm and nostalgia to any sailboat. While it may lack some upwind performance compared to more modern designs, gaff rigs excel in downwind sailing situations such as running or reaching courses where larger sails can catch more favorable winds from behind. If you desire a unique style that gives your boat character while maintaining good downwind abilities or if you have a vintage vessel that requires an authentic look, then opting for a Gaff mast could be perfect.

For those seeking exceptional maneuverability along with uncompromising speed, the “Fractional” mast may be the way to go. The distinguishing feature of this type of mast is its fractional or near-fore-aft placement of the jib—a smaller foresail located closer to the bow of the boat. This configuration allows for enhanced control over sail shape and enables sailors to easily depower the sails in strong winds. Fractional masts work great on high-performance racing boats that demand precise handling and speed optimization. If you are an adrenaline-seeking sailor looking to conquer races or simply enjoy pushing boundaries on your fast-paced adventures, a Fractional mast might just be your desired choice.

Last but not least, we have the “Ketch” mast—a unique configuration featuring two main masts with separate headsails. While relatively rare in modern sailboats, ketch rigs offer excellent versatility and balance under various wind conditions. With a larger forward mast supporting a bigger jib and a shorter aft mast for a smaller mizzen sail or mizzen staysail, this setup provides superior maneuverability and stability. Ketch rigs are particularly favored among long-distance cruisers due to their ability to balance sails well on long passages while offering multiple combinations for optimal performance in different weather conditions.

As you can see, choosing the right type of mast for your sailboat involves weighing several factors like sailing preferences, boat design, intended usage (racing versus cruising), and aesthetic appeal. Each type mentioned brings distinct advantages tailored to specific needs; however, it’s essential to consult with naval architects or experienced sailors who possess valuable insights before making a final decision.

Ultimately, finding the perfect mast should be seen as an exciting journey—much like setting out on an adventure across vast oceans. Delve into exploring different types of masts with curiosity and enthusiasm that matches your passion for sailing!

Maintaining and Upgrading Your Sailboat’s Mast: Tips and Tricks

Your sailboat’s mast is the key component that holds up your sail and propels you through the water. It’s crucial to keep it in top shape to ensure a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience. In this blog post, we’ll dive into some essential tips and clever tricks for maintaining and upgrading your sailboat’s mast like a true professional.

1. Regular Inspection: First things first, regular inspection is crucial to identify any potential issues with your mast. Check for any signs of wear or damage, such as cracks or corrosion, especially where fittings are attached. This includes inspecting the spreaders, gooseneck fitting, halyard sheaves, and rigging wires. Don’t forget to inspect any electrical components if you have a stepped mast.

2. Cleaning and Lubrication: Keeping your mast clean is not only aesthetically pleasing but also vital for proper function. Use a mild boat soap mixed with water to gently remove dirt, salt residue, or bird droppings from the surface. Avoid using harsh abrasives that could damage the finish.

After cleaning, lubricate all movable parts such as winches, track systems, boom vangs, and blocks using a marine-grade lubricant like lithium grease or silicone spray. Regular lubrication will prevent friction-induced wear and ensure smooth operation.

3. Preventing Corrosion: Corrosion can be the enemy of your sailboat’s mast since it weakens its structural integrity over time. To prevent corrosion on aluminum masts (most common type), apply protective coatings specifically designed for aluminum surfaces regularly.

For stainless steel fittings like turnbuckles or shackles, use lanolin-based products or anti-seize compounds to ward off galvanic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals coming into contact.

4. Rigging Maintenance: Inspecting and maintaining your rigging should be a top priority. Check for signs of fraying, broken strands, or loose wires in your standing rigging regularly. If you spot any issues, don’t delay; replace the affected parts promptly to prevent a potential mast failure while at sea.

Additionally, periodically tension your standing rigging using a tension gauge to ensure it remains within manufacturer’s recommendations. Adjusting the tension will optimize your sail shape and boat performance.

5. Upgrading Your Mast: If you’re looking to enhance your sailing experience, consider upgrading your mast with innovative features. One popular upgrade is adding a masthead wind indicator or anemometer that provides real-time wind direction and speed information right at the top of your mast. This information is invaluable when making tactical decisions on the water.

Another option for upgrading is installing an electric winch handle to effortlessly raise and lower sails from the cockpit. With this time-saving gadget, you’ll have more control over hoisting and trimming without needing excessive physical strength.

6. Extra Tips and Tricks: – To extend the lifespan of wooden masts, apply quality varnish or wood preservatives regularly. – Secure all halyards properly during mooring or storage to reduce wear caused by flapping in the breeze. – Invest in a mast boot to seal gaps where the mast passes through the deck, preventing water intrusion into the cabin below.

In conclusion, maintaining and upgrading your sailboat’s mast requires regular inspection, cleaning, lubrication, corrosion prevention measures, rigging maintenance, as well as exploring exciting upgrades that enhance functionality and convenience on board. By following these tips and tricks like a professional sailor does, you’ll ensure that your mast remains strong and reliable for countless adventures on open waters!

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Raising the Mast of a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor — The Solo Version

It’s been a while since we’ve heard from The Resourceful Sailor. Since he lowered the mast on his boat Sampaguita last June, he’s been busy taking care of several boat projects. Now he’s back on deck and has sent us this detailed report on raising the mast.

What goes down must go up? After a rig refit, the mast of Sampaguita , a Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, was ready to be raised. Still in her Port Townsend slip, the process was, generally, the opposite of lowering, presented in ‘Lectronic Latitude on June 16, 2021 — Lowering the Mast on a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor .

It required the same bridle setup. The boom, again, would act as a gin pole to gain the proper angle for leverage. The mainsheet block and tackle would do the heavy lifting. Rather than write the same thing again, I will focus on the differences between the two procedures and provide some previously left-out insights. In doing this, I will presume that you have read or will review the installment mentioned above.

For raising, only the cap shrouds and the headstay needed to be attached to their respective chainplates. Out of respect for Murphy’s Law, the other wires were secured tightly to the mast to mitigate their inclination to get snagged. Snagged wires like to kink, and whether new or old, it is unsatisfying, not to mention detrimental to their longevity and strength. The turnbuckles were wrapped in rags and secured to the mast, preventing them from scratching and banging into anything (everything.)

The bridle setup was more challenging to organize with the rig down than up. Since I had new wires, I needed to re-seize the stainless steel rings to the cap shrouds. It required holding up the wire to determine the proper pivot points with the mast. Then the opposing force lines to the lower stay chainplates were added, conceptualizing the rigid triangle necessary to maintain the pivot points. With the rig up, it is easier to build and see this. But down, it is a floppy mess. Then, a line was attached to each ring, ready to lead to a bail on the boom. A block and tackle served nicely for this on one side for ease of adjustment. These guylines will provide the opposing forces to keep the boom centered.

After that, I moved the mast to the tabernacle and pinned its base in the ready position. A final review of the halyard and wire leads and spreader orientations was done. A reminder: Always be on the lookout for snagging wires and lines whenever you move the mast.

The boom, as a gin pole, could then be added. When lowering, it was already in position and there was only the matter of attaching the bridle lines. However, with the mast down, the boom would be attached starting in a vertical position, which involved some boat yoga. I shackled the mainsheet and topping lift to its outer end. Lots of slack was fed into those lines, allowing for lifting it straight up. While holding it so, I pinned the mast end to the gooseneck. I picked up the previously-led guylines (the line and the block and tackle) and attached them to the boom bail. I tightened and adjusted the mainsheet, the topping lift, and the guylines until the boom was centered and vertical. The opposing forces held the gin pole in place.

With the correct bridle setup, the mast base in the tabernacle, and the gin pole in place, it was simply a matter of hoisting the mast. On a Flicka 20, the round bar traveler and the four-part mainsheet block and tackle are very accommodating to providing the mechanical advantage necessary for raising and lowering the mast. To a soloist, this advantage was indispensable. It took two hands and a bit of leaning to get it moving, but it became easier as it went higher. An eye was kept on the centerline alignment of the mast and boom, making sure the bridle prep was accurate, and watching that the wires did not snag.

The accompanying video shows the raising from a first-person view and solo. In contrast to lowering the mast, gravity is less of a friend, so the ascent is slower, with a bit more heave-ho. There is no shame in re-lowering the mast to adjust the bridle lines or sort out the wires. It is better to correct them early than to think something will be all right when it is not. Raising and lowering the mast is not rocket science, but 99% of the gig is proper preparation. If something goes wrong, it could be catastrophic, so double- and triple-check. It can be intimidating at first, but it is simple physics and simple tools at work. Remember, keep it safe and prudent, and have a blast.

This is so stressful to watch! I would have never had the courage to do it myself. As always, you have my respect and admiration. Well done!

Rusty, thanks for the kind words, and thanks for reading.

Joshua, Thank you for taking the time for so nicely relaying your experiences on single-hand stepping the mast on your Flicka. I am currently refining this design process for my own boat, and am thus interested in the finer details. My initial questions are two: First, concerning the method and material for seizing the bridle to the cap shrouds: As you state, a properly rigged bridle is key to making the process work. How did you analyze the adequacy of your seizing method and the loads that would be experienced?

Temporary seizing is a good place to start for me, but since I do this spring and fall every year, I have considered incorporating a more permanent nicropress and cable pigtail for the ring attachment (the loads there are not very high). A triangular plate in the top shroud with attachment points for the bridle connection points would be nicer, but more expensive to implement. Either way, it is probably prudent to use a temporary seizing first, to demonstrate dimensional functionality prior to a permanent solution. Second, I am sure you release the cap shrouds to allow the bridle arrangement some up/down movement as a result of the mast butt movement in the tabernacle during stepping. Somehow I must have missed that. Once upon a time I tried raising the mast with very slack uppers (guessing at what was needed instead of graphical analysis or calculations) instead of the bridle approach (all else was like your scenario). Because the slack was inadequate and no bridle, I managed to bend my boom out of alignment. :o(. A good machine shop worked that out. As long as the mast remains vertical through the lift, there isn’t much load on that ring connection, but its job is keeping the mast in a vertical/perpendicular orientation through the lift. But if some kind of unforeseen incident would create shock loading on the seized ring, (say even 2 pounds of lateral movement (force at the truck) that would correlate to about 56 foot-pounds of moment (engineering statics) applied at the ring due to the long lever arm of the mast. If it were 5 pounds force perpendicular at the top of the mast, it would correlate to up to 140 foot pounds. In my view, a shock load of 5 pounds or maybe more, isn’t an unlikely scenario, considering Murphy. I can’t think of a way to analyze the strength of the seizing, and prayer does not work for me. So, how did you analyze the adequacy of your seizing method and what did you use? Wire? In my case, I have been stepping my mast at least annually, on my Lancer 25 for more than 35 years. I usually do it on the hard, or in the water if launching was via travel lift or something else that dictated the mast needed to be down when launched. But in at least one case, years ago, while sailing near Cowichan Bay at Vancouver Island, the jib wire jumped the sheave (a result of rough water and a slack line while dousing the jib) at the truck, and jammed along-side of the sheave when I tried to pull the sail down. I wasn’t sure of the problem at the time, but the sail definitely was not coming down, so I wrapped the jib halyard around the forestay to try to contain the partially-filled sail and considered my options. Luckily, upon checking my depth sounder, and found some shallow 30’ water (unheard of up there) and dropped the hook (probably on a rock bottom) and it held well enough for the task at hand. My mate always helped tail the line connected to the backstay at the winch and through a clam cleat to hold things if I needed a rest. I just loosened and released the rigging as necessary, muscle-dropped the mast and used the dinghy to go forward and sort things out. It was a very high reach, but I was successful. After I got the mast back up it started to rain….. I later drilled a hole in the truck to insert a stainless wire restraint, so the halyard cable could not be thrown off the sheave again. I have toyed with analyzing more mechanical methods for raising the mast now that I am older, less strong, and my first mate has passed on. That is what piqued my interest on your article. The Flicka is ready-made (Bingham designed it in; I am sure) for this raising procedure. The Flicka doesn’t have many complications, since there are double lowers in perfect position for the bridle attachment, and the cap shrouds are neatly centered to the mast. The Lancer is not so nice. It has a single set of lowers, and the chain plate has about 1” between the 2 connections for uppers and lowers. These are also set about 3” aft of mast centerline. The original Lancer design was a tabernacle (not exactly the proper technical term, but we will go with it) with the slot in the tabernacle tabs, and a through bolt for securing the mast. I would say this is the usual case for production trailer sailor boats. I have never been wild about the uneven up-and-down friction-prone mast butt action and the associated movement reflected in the rigging connections during stepping. I do have a strong toe rail to connect the bridle, but the chain-plate bridle connection will not work geometrically. I have purchased a hinged tabernacle plate from Ballinger Spars, which will smooth out the rotational process down there. However, the negative thing it does, is place the pivot point about 3” in front of the mast centerline. The hinge movement is forward of the mast (eccentric) and translates to about 3” up-and-down movement (tensioning or slacking) of the cap shroud/ bridle assembly while stepping the Lancer mast. With the eccentric hinged plate pivot, (while rotating up), the mast butt raises momentarily for about 1/4” (slackening the rigging) and then drops down 3” (requiring an equal amount of rigging slack or things will go into tension, which is no good). The shrouds or bridle assembly must allow a lengthening of 3” during rotation of the mast butt into final position (as determined by graphical analysis). On lowering, the movement is opposite, so the shrouds will slacken throughout rotation without causing any tension problems, and there is plenty of play being created to keep any stresses from developing. I suppose the key in my case is to set the bridle configuration when the mast I up, thus ‘dimensionally building in’ the 3” movement required into the bridle/shroud system. Thoughts? The following is an analysis of the forces on the Lancer rigging dimensions and mast weight: The mast (Kenyon 3550) is 28’ long and weighs in at 62 pounds. I arbitrarily rounded to 70 pounds for these calculations. The moment to initiate lifting the mast is 980 foot pounds. (28’x half the mast length x70 pounds – assume equal weight distribution per foot.). That is to say, if the mast is on the ground and you lift one end, it will take 35 pounds force through a distance of 28 feet (=980 foot pounds of moment acting on the mast to lift one end off of the ground). But in raising the mast, the force is pulling more aft than up (requiring vector analysis which I will get to). I am currently considering a 10’ jibboom mounted at the hinge point and not higher on the mast where the boom lives, which changes the numbers- (no bending forces on the mast – which are not really great enough to mean much to the 3550). Also in the Flicka case, boom length (as with lancer) is probably about 8’. A 10’ jibboom lowers the forces more than an 8’, but using the existing spar is practical. It is probably prudent for me to reconsider and re-calculate using the boom in its usual position. A few years ago, I designed and had a fitting made to connect a jibboom to the mast foot, so I was considering using it. So, running the numbers based on the Lacer backstay distance to the mast and initial lay of the mast, it would take (rounded) 103 pounds of tension in the backstay from the mast truck to the jibboom, and 125 pounds of tension from the jibboom to the backstay connection point. Compression loading in the 10’ boom is 114 pounds. Yes, one can use Eulers equation to analyze buckling forces, but I didn’t do it. Following good engineering practice with a factor of safety of at least 2, these numbers would be double the values shown for design checking of adequacy of rigging and spars. Confirming your experience, as the mast goes up, the center of gravity moves aft, requiring less and less force to raise the mast (and the geometry is changing) to increase efficiency of the forces as the mast goes up. 30degrees=858 ft lbs, 45 degrees=700 ft lbs, 70 degrees=350 ft lbs. 70 degrees into the lift, it would equate to 10 pounds of perpendicular force applied at the top (the center of mast mass has shifted to only 5’ in front of the final mast position). With a 4:1 ratio applied on the backstay, the pull on the line is about 31 pounds force for the Lancer System. The Flicka system is somewhat more (I don’t have the dimensions to analyze it), but from your description it was probably 40 pounds or less to start the raise, and then the tension required reduces as the mast goes up. Since the pull for the lancer scenario calculates in at around 31 pounds, I am planning to run the bitter end of the 4:1 through a block at the stern, to the bow, through a blocks on the bow, and use the anchor windlass to pull the mast up (the windlass maximum has 400 pounds of tension available). So even with friction losses, there should be no issue. I have a windlass switch in the cockpit, and a second hand-held remote at the forward hatch. It is a very convenient setup for going forward and guiding the mast or sorting out issues. Also, after my spouse passed, I put a winch at about 5’ high on the mast, and I ran the raising line there, instead of needing someone tailing at the cockpit. It is easier (almost necessary) to have a helper with me at the mast. I have lowered the mast alone with this manual system by taking wraps on the winch and playing out slack while catching the mast. However, without a jibboom, the forces are tougher to man-handle alone at the end of the lowering process. Comments are appreciated, as there is always something else to be considered or learned. Thanks

Jim, Thanks for reading and taking the time to engage. You have certainly been thinking about this! You get far deeper into the physics than I ever have and I suspect, many readers and sailors. Regarding seizing the rings on, I don’t overthink it. I have some net twine and I wrap and figure-eight it until I am sure it is strong enough. They are not permanent installations but are easy for me to put on as needed. Thoughtful marlinspike would make a nice permanent install. I have seen a different Flicka install that had the cap shroud turnbuckle placed at the pivot point. This removed the need for a seized-on ring and also gave a nice pivot point that does not bend the wire. Kinking the wire is my big concern, but the forces and the pivot point have not been high enough to do this, so without doing the physics calculation, the stress is low. Regarding the extra slack in the cap shrouds to accommodate that extra lift that occurs as the mast tips forward, no, I did not mention it, but it is a thing. I learned of that when I did not have them slack enough on a lowering. I recognized what was happening, so rather than forcing it, I backed off, adjusted, and restarted. Article scope naturally means some things are left out. That is good intel on bending your boom though. I have found on a sailboat, that if something feels like it is not running free, something is wrong. I don’t force it.

Thanks for the reply, Joshua.

I am leaning toward installing a permanent 4-hole triangular plate in the cap shroud at the bridle connection. This would create clear movement for hinge point attachments, and address stresses that can occur there. The rest is just a matter of rigging things up.

Best wishes in the new year.

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• Thread starter agprice22
• Start date Apr 29, 2014
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• Ask All Sailors

Here is an idea I have for a home crane (yardarm) for stepping my 272 mast. I want to be able to fully rig the boat before taking it to the marina for launching, and I just have 1 extra person to help, and she is trepidacious about having this mast fall. Especially so since it kind of landed hard when my mast A-frame broke due to unequal loading and twist on the mast as we lowered it to bring the boat home. It only came down hard about 2ft, but it was scary! So... Tell me what you think, and why doesn't anyone sell these on the internet? Yardarm: View attachment 74616 Measurements: View attachment 74617 Dimensions: View attachment 74618 Considering the relatively light weight of the mast, I think I could overbuild this with just 1 1/2 - 2" square, mild steel tube. Any ideas, caveats? Oh, the plan says, "4x4 lumber," but I am thinking steel considering the length. Also, the length of the arm can be shortened by a few feet by moving the mounting point up the wall, but then the mounting point and angle of the upper block and tackle changes has less leverage(?). Thanks, Andrew  

SycloneDriver

I replaced the tongue on my trailer with a longer one and built a crane on the trailer. It works great. I needed to replace the tongue anyway. Is the mast hinged at the deck on a 272? What about overhead power lines between the house and the marina?  

SycloneDriver said: What about overhead power lines between the house and the marina? Click to expand

No matter if the route is 'clear', 14 feet is the highest you can be with ANY load (without a permit) on most roads in the USA.  

Have you considered a self contained gin pole set up? We have learned to leave almost all of our rigging attached and in place some of it slackened. Drop the mast with the gin pole and slide it all forward for travel. Bungee or tie in place. At the ramp do the reverse. Cut off a lot of time and screwing around. With our self contained gin pole and a set of baby stays I have no problem putting up and taking down the mast alone safely. Just a thought.  

Whoa! So we don't misunderstand here... I am ONLY erecting the mast at my garage, so I can rig the boat and work on the mast and lines. I WILL NOT be transporting the boat with the mast erected! Yikes! Haha... Driving down the road with the 30 ft mast erected! Whew! No. We will have the yard erect the mast and lift the boat into the water. Too many variables with ramp angle, length, only two of us to rig and such... Worth the money to let the yard lift it at the water. So... I am just asking for opinions on the lifting device. However, I do like the trailer mounted crane idea. I would like to see pictures. Thanks! Andrew  

Looks like a workable concept to me however not dissimilar to the A frame but just not mounted on the boat. You don't show the weight of the mast or its length. Using a break wench to raise and lower should prevent dropping while a block and tackle requires constant attention or tie off when paused. The set up you're proposing is the same as farmers have been loading barns forever, go to a feed store for parts and ideas.  

agprice22 said: Whoa! So we don't misunderstand here... I am ONLY erecting the mast at my garage, so I can rig the boat and work on the mast and lines. I WILL NOT be transporting the boat with the mast erected! Yikes! Haha... Driving down the road with the 30 ft mast erected! Whew! No. We will have the yard erect the mast and lift the boat into the water. Too many variables with ramp angle, length, only two of us to rig and such... Worth the money to let the yard lift it at the water. So... I am just asking for opinions on the lifting device. However, I do like the trailer mounted crane idea. I would like to see pictures. Thanks! Andrew Click to expand

Steve Walsh

Concept looks ok, but not sure if crane is high enough from deck in the hand sketch. I suspect you need to place lifting strap on mast at a point that makes the mast slightly bottom heavy. Assuming the mast is heavier at the bottom and the strap is placed at mid-point on a 30' mast, you will need to get the strap point to around 15' above the deck. So using your measurements, that puts the strap point at about 25' above ground. Looks like you may run out of lifting range before mast is high enough, unless you use several people on lines attached to mast to pull (tilt) it up the rest of the way after getting the mast on the tabernacle.  

Yes, the spreaders are 15' above deck, and the deck is 9' above ground. The spreaders are slightly above midpoint on the mast, so getting the spreaders 24' above ground should get the mast vertical on the deck. I can increase the lifting distance by raising the arm and getting the boat closer to the building. I have 5' of clearance between the edge of the trailer and the building, so I have some leeway. However, I may still have to give it a shove forward after I connect the backstay in order to connect the forestay. Thanks, Andrew  

Joe said: Why don't you invest in a tabernacle (hinged) mast step and raise it with a gin pole, or some other traditional trailer sailor technique. If you haven't measure the shrouds yet you can rig temps with the halyards. Click to expand

LloydB said: Looks like a workable concept to me however not dissimilar to the A frame but just not mounted on the boat. You don't show the weight of the mast or its length. Using a break wench to raise and lower should prevent dropping while a block and tackle requires constant attention or tie off when paused. The set up you're proposing is the same as farmers have been loading barns forever, go to a feed store for parts and ideas. Click to expand

I dunno, Andrew. I've been following this thread for a bit now. Seems to me, if you have a deck stepped mast, you would do well to rig a sturdy gin pole, with baby stays on the mast and gin pole for stability, and then you'd have a setup that you could use anywhere - stepping your own mast at the yard, for example, as well as your house, and somewhere else if you were able to travel with it. Ahhhh, found it: According to the brochure, the mast is deck stepped with a hinged base, so this is the direction I'd head http://www.iheartodays.com/files/model_oday_272le_brochure_6_2550w_3317h.jpg  

Check out this video of the Catalina mast raising system. One of the interesting parts is the sliding A-frame that does the side to side stabilization. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX9TRjBKCQ8  

Joe Blizzard

agprice22 said: There seems to be too little lateral stability offered without rigging some shrouds to steady the mast. How do you / others rig this? I guess I could look on Youtube! Click to expand

You will simplify the set up and reduce risk the most by replacing the broken mast step First for the least cost. Let the deck support the mast. Brian S makes good points. Adjustable 9' cargo straps make good temporary baby stays and will hold well over 200 lbs horizontally even at 30 degrees from vertical to keep balance while raising.  

On a J24 for example which has a much bigger keel stepped mast (35' and about 70#) you need a ginpole with 19' feet of lift to raise the mast enough to drop it through the deck to the step Are pole was always stood up on deck by hand and supported with 3 shrouds The C22 only needs enough lift for perhaps 1/2 the mast length On my 18' with the hinge step built in you one person just walked the mast up from stern to bow  

LloydB said: You will simplify the set up and reduce risk the most by replacing the broken mast step First for the least cost. Let the deck support the mast. Brian S makes good points. Adjustable 9' cargo straps make good temporary baby stays and will hold well over 200 lbs horizontally even at 30 degrees from vertical to keep balance while raising. Click to expand

Thanks guys! I will check out the baby stays. Part of the advantage of the crane at home is to lift the mast off the boat too, so I can work on it and store it in my shed. However, I am feeling more positive about a new A-frame setup of metal tubing. My first one was probably underbuilt with only 2x2 lumber. It worked until about 20 inches remaining. Luckily, the mast just laid onto the support with no damage except a broken pin in the mast foot and a little damage to the slot in the step plate into which the pin fits. I am going to repair the step and pin, or I will adapt a hinged plate. Thanks everybody! Excellent feedback as usual! Andrew  

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