used sailboat stanchions

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A Strong Stanchion to Save Your Life

• By John Vigor
• Updated: August 7, 2002

Lifeline stanchions take a terrible beating. They’re long, thin and almost impossible to install with any pretense of engineering integrity. They might have been designed as levers to pry open a deck. In fact, whenever someone shoves a boat off a dock with a hearty thrust to a stanchion, that’s exactly what can happen. In a fiberglass deck, stanchion movement can cause crazing and cracking in the gel coat. In a wood deck, movement will strain the fasteners and loosen the base, disturbing the bedding compound that forms a vital waterproof seal.

In each case, saltwater and rainwater leaks result. Telltale brown stains then will appear inside lockers, above the pilot berth, or on the cabin liner, usually (but not necessarily) directly beneath a stanchion. Leaks can run along stringers and liners, emerging some distance from the source. But leak damage isn’t just cosmetic. It can rot interior woodwork or saturate a deck core, leading to delamination, structural degradation and costly repairs.

A leak signals that you need to rebed your stanchion bases. If they were properly fitted in the first place, this is not a big job. You can do one at a time, but it’s wiser to rebed them all at once. When one springs a leak, chances are the others won’t be far behind.

Some stanchions are two-piece affairs with separate bases and upright posts. Some are bolted through the base plate only and others are reinforced with attachments to a bulwark or high toe rail (which makes them substantially stronger). Whatever the make-up, these are the key elements of good stanchion installation:

• Backing pads spread stress loads.
• Flexible bedding compound seals joints against leaks and, in a cored deck, sealed bolt holes keep the core dry.
• Stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers give strength and security.

Keeping these basics in mind, here’s a step-by-step guide to rebedding a stanchion base:

Step 1 Remove the wire lifelines. Remove the stanchion from its base (if the two are not integral) by unscrewing the retaining nuts or removing the cotter pins. Lay it aside. Place masking tape flush alongside the edges of the base and tamp down firmly.

Step 2 Remove interior trim or headliner to expose the nuts holding the stanchion base in place. Remove the nuts with a wrench. You may need a helper on deck with a large screwdriver to stop the bolt from turning. Withdraw the bolts and inspect for pitting or crevice corrosion. If need be, replace with new stainless steel bolts of the same size (but at least 1/4-inch in diameter).

Step 3 Lift the stanchion base from the deck, prying gently with a wide screwdriver if necessary. Gently scrape bedding compound off deck and bottom of base. Wash away remaining bedding compound with solvent (paint thinner or mineral spirits if it was an older, linseed oil-based marine putty such as Dolfinite bedding compound; or acetone if it was polysulfide or silicone).

Step 4 Thoroughly sand the deck inside the masking tape with 120-grit paper, taking care not to sand the tape itself, protecting it if necessary with a piece of Formica or similar held in place. Sand the bottom of the base, too.

Step 5 If necessary, prepare a new backing plate. For materials, use at least 3/32-inch-thick stainless steel, 1/8-inch aluminum or 3/16-inch marine plywood. It should be 50 percent longer and wider than the stanchion base, if possible. Place the base on top of the backing plate and mark for holes. Drill holes in the backing plate 1/16-inch larger than the bolt diameter, to allow for bolt drift.

Step 6 For decks cored with balsa or foam, and if the edges of the bolt holes have not been sealed with epoxy to prevent water ingress, there is an additional step to insert here. With a drill, ream out the existing bolt holes through the deck about 3/32-inch larger than the bolt diameter. Tape the bottom of the holes, but prick a small hole through the middle of the tape with dividers or a large needle. Mix a small quantity of epoxy resin with a bonding powder to the consistency of peanut butter and fill the bolt holes, forcing the resin down from the deck until a tiny worm of putty squeezes through the air holes in the tape. Allow the epoxy to cure. Then, using the base plate as a template, carefully re-drill the original-size holes through the middle of the epoxy.

Step 7 Cover the deck area outlined by masking tape with a generous layer of polysulfide sealant such as Boatlife’s Life Calk or 3M 101 marine sealant. Silicone may also be used to bed the base, but polysulfide is the preferred sealant. Polyurethane bedding compound should not be used because it is a powerful adhesive that makes subsequent removal of the base difficult, and will likely cause structural damage to the deck. (Note: Sikaflex claims this effect won’t occur with its less adhesive 231 polyurethane formula and says it’s suitable for bedding deck fittings.)

Step 8 Smear the bottom of the base with a layer of polysulfide sealant. Also smear sealant under the heads of the bolts. Place the base in position and drop the bolts through. Line up the slots in the bolt heads as required, but don’t turn the bolts again or you’ll destroy their waterproof seal. All tightening will be done from inside.

Step 9 Down below, fit the base plate and the washers, and screw on the nuts while a helper holds the bolts in place on deck. Tighten the nuts only until a fat bead of compound oozes out all around the edges of the base. Remove the excess compound with a putty knife or scraper and a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then smooth the sealant against the edges of the base with a finger or a plastic spoon.

Step 10 Allow the sealant to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This could take anywhere from 48 hours to a week. With a helper again on deck to prevent the bolts from turning, tighten the nuts home one by one. Replace the stanchion post in its base and rerig and tension the lifelines.

Stanchions rebedded in this manner will provide many years of good service and add substantially to the security of the deck lifeline system.

Safety-At-Sea Note: The American Boat and Yacht Council suggests that the entire lifeline installation be capable of withstanding a ÒstaticÓ force of about 600 lbs.

In his book Surveying Small Craft, British author Ian Nicolson warns owners to watch out for stanchions secured with screws. All deck fittings should be thru-bolted, he says.

Furthermore, as far as stanchions are concerned, surveyors agree “that there should be underdeck pads to take the nuts and washers, almost regardless of what construction material is used. Mass-produced boats need adequate checking, because there is a tendency to omit these pads or locate them carelessly so that the bolts do not pass through the pads.”

Nicolson advocates using backing pads on top of the deck, between deck and stanchion base, and below the deck.

Dan Spurr, author of Upgrading The Cruising Sailboat, warns that stanchions should be made of stainless steel pipe, not tubing, and should have lock nuts under the deck. “Stanchions should be welded or thru-bolted to their bases, because Allen set screws only dimple the metal, at best, and are not very secure,” he writes.

To keep the exterior of the stanchion base smooth or to prevent damage to a chromed base, you may want to drill only the stanchion. Mark the position of the set screw with the stanchion in place. Remove the stanchion and center punch the spot, then drill and tap it to receive a machine screw. To use the Allen set screw, drill partially through the stanchion to provide a recess into which the set screw can securely sit. Always use LokTite or a similar product on the threads of the bolts, machine screws or set screws to keep them from working loose.

If there are only three holes in a round stanchion base, locate two holes inboard, Spurr advises. The stanchion will better be able to withstand a sudden outward thrust.

———————————————————————— John Vigor is a regular contributor to Cruising World

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Lifeline Stanchions: New Aluminum Matella Is Super Strong

Cast bases outperform welded ones, so look to spartan and suncor..

Long ago, aboard sailing ships trapped in the doldrums, the crew rigged long, vertical poles to support awnings. The awnings were needed to keep the decks from opening up and to prevent living things—man and beast—from dying in the heat.

The poles became pipes, they got shorter and soon they were called “bulwark stanchions.”

And that’s how, as bulwarks extending above the weather deck shrank, lifelines came into being. Bulwarks, once needed to keep deck-loaded cargo from going over the side, added to the cost of construction; they also added a lot of windage and could scoop up tons of water.

Stanchions, threaded with strong, low-windage rope or wire lifelines, became slim and trim.

On modern ships and yachts, the lifelines the stanchions support are intended to keep the crew from going overboard. To be really effective, the lifelines should be taller than generally seen. Waist high should be the minimum. How the boat looks shouldn’t be an issue, but it is.

The lifelines and the supporting stanchions and bases must be strong enough to withstand a lurching fall by a large crew member.

Standards for stanchions and lifelines are meager. The Offshore Racing Council says the lifelines should be 18″ high on boats no more than 28′ LOA, 24″ on larger boats with both mounted on through-bolted, bonded or welded stanchions no more than 7′ apart. The Cruising Club of America’s Fastnet-inspired publication, Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, states only that stanchions be of stainless steel and through-bolted. A recent study sponsored by the United States Naval Academy and the United States Sailing Association suggested that plastic-coated lifeline wire should be replaced with bare wire and that, because pulpits and pushpits are weak attachment points for lifelines, their bases should be equipped with supporting struts.

For this Practical Sailor test, almost two dozen stanchions and close to three dozen bases were collected. The samples do not include all available lengths of stanchions and angled bases.

They all were examined closely for design, material, finish and workmanship. Extra scrutiny was given to fabricated items—those that are welded or made up of several pieces of stainless plate, tubing and rod.

Cast vs. Welded Bases For those who prefer one-piece construction, the penalty for the solid bronze or stainless castings usually is weight.

For instance, a Vetus base in this test, which is made up of a piece of stainless plate bent to shape and to which is welded a piece of stainless tubing, weighs 8.5 ounces. That light weight was the goal clearly is indicated by a hole punched out to eliminate excess material. When combined with a Vetus tapered stanchion, the pair weigh 1 pound, 11 ounces.

By contrast, a cast stainless steel Spartan base weighs twice as much—18 ounces. Combine that Spartan base with the strongest Tops-In-Quality stanchion (the model reinforced with a fiberglass rod) and the weight soars to just over 3 pounds.

Multiply the weight differences in these combinations by the stanchions needed on most boats and the added weight can get significant…especially to a sailboat that is raced. The choice between fabricated and cast bases should be made by a boat owner; unfortunately, the selection usually is made by the boatbuilder, who too often goes not only for the lightest but also the cheapest.

As with any safety equipment, the primary objective is to have a lifeline system that will save a life. (But because of inherent weaknesses, oneshould never clip a safety harness to lifelines.) That means strength.

In the case of lifelines, it’s likely that when someone falls it will be more likely against the lifelines than against a single stanchion. Some say it’s better to have stanchions bend (to provide some cushion). It seems preferable, in our view, that the stanchions withstand the force.

How much force?

Practical Sailor has struggled with various ways to figure out how much force a grown adult might exert while falling hard. Various drop tests have been considered and rejected as not realistic. However, that does not preclude testing to establish which items in a group are the strongest. Tests that indicate in what manner failure presents itself also can help buyers match their preferences to the products they buy.

Bases sell for about $32-$45.

Design and Quality Before testing was undertaken, the stanchions and bases were closely examined.

For the stanchions, the chart (click here to view) shows evaluations of finish, welding, aesthetics, weight, length and price.

Stanchions made of stainless tubing are manufactured from a flat strip. The ribbon is fed into an automatic machine that forms a tube and welds the seam. Because welds are prone to corrosion, the quality of the weld is important. So is the finish…the polishing of the stainless.

The top details may be a matter of appearance. The castellated tip, shaped like the battlements on the corners of a castle, surely ranks as the second best looking (next to the one-piece aluminum Goiot). As with the pipe tip and ring tip on two of the Tops-In-Quality stanchions, the castellated top is a separate piece that must be welded in place. That increases the possibility of corrosion.

One other consideration of stanchion tips involves comfort and safety. The small tips on tapered stanchions may be sleek and handsome, but the blunt tops on the Schaefer and two of the Tops-In-Quality models, all three on untapered tubing, would be a bit nicer to grab and somewhat safer if one fell on them. Tapered for good looks and with fairly large tips, the Goiot and Matella are good compromises.

Whatever the design, the hole for the lifeline must be smooth to avoid chafing either the plastic cover used on most lifelines or a bare wire lifeline. Because the plastic cover encourages corrosion, bare wire is preferable…except in an anodized aluminum stanchion where the stainless wire would quickly wear away the anodizing.

The mid-hole for the lower lifeline also must be smooth.

It should be noted that, although they may be sold as stanchion bases, some of these bases really are meant for powerboat railings. Included are models from Attwood, Buck Algonquin and Suncor. Others can be found in some discount marine stores. With fewer mounting holes, less material or with a low profile, these “railing bases” seem to satisfy powerboat owners, but should not be used on a sailboat.

Sailboat bases should have a drain hole, because they collect water and debris. The result: Corrosion, which is unsightly but, more importantly, can lead to failure, especially of fabricated bases.

It’s important, too, how the stanchion is secured in the base. It’s not uncommon for someone hoping to avoid a fall to pull up on a lifeline, only to have the stanchion lift out of the base.

The poorest bases have one tiny set screw. Those with two set screws are twice as good as “very poor.”

A requirement, in our opinion, is a bolt, threaded into at least one side of the stanchion and base, but better if run all the way through and secured with an acorn nut, seated in Loc-tite, on the other side. If such bolts hold the stanchion up off the bottom of the base socket, they rarely rattle. Not one of these bases is so equipped, but some easily can be drilled and fitted with a proper through-bolt.

Several years ago we had Tops-In-Quality make up a number of bases for our Tartan test boat and they were quite happy to drill drain and through-bolt holes. We think this is an improvement well worth the modest price increase.

As one manufacturer put it, “Basically, stanchion bases should be inviolate.” They must not break or bend. They also must be powerfully mounted. If not, a failure probably will do some deck damage, which might be dangerous if at sea and expensive to fix anywhere.

Unless it’s light weight you desire, cast bronze and stainless bases are far better than fabricated bases. Fabricated bases always involve the ever-suspect welding and it takes little pressure to distort the fabricated bases, even those with reinforcing struts. When a base bends, it always pulls the mounting holes closer together and squeezes the deck unmercifully. The result: wobbly bases, deck cracks and leaks.

First Phase Testing For the first phase of the testing, fabricated bases were tested with a strong aluminum stanchion…in this case the 1″ OD Matella.

A piece of Sta-Set line was shackled to the hole in the tip of the stanchion and led to a Harken winch mounted on the other end of the long workbench. Interposed in the line was a Dillon dynamometer. It took a pad eye and a block to produce a proper angle for the line to meet the winch. The pull on the stanchion was at about a 20° downward angle…about right for someone falling against the stanchion or lifeline from the opposite side.

The pull, applied by the Harken #32 two-speed, self-tailing winch and registered on a dynamometer, was increased until damage could be seen.

The failure usually presented itself in the form of a bend in the base plate on the backside. When the bend was well-developed and permanent, the pull and angle were recorded.

Second Phase Testing The second phase of the test involved stanchions. All except the big Matella and the metric Goiot are 1″ OD.

The wall thickness of the stainless steel tube stanchions is about .060″. However, because this was a simple strength test, any differences in the wall thickness are moot.

Further, although it is obvious that shorter stanchions would show up better in the testing, no allowance was made for length after it appeared that it wouldn’t make any difference in the final recommendations.

The Spartan plain bronze base ($40) was used for all but the Matella stanchion (which has its own base).

The pull was applied in the same manner as for the bases. With two exceptions, the stainless tubing stanchions all failed in the same manner. One exception was the braced Signet stanchion; it failed where the brace was welded to the main body of the stanchion. The other exception was the 30″ Ronstan; it has holes for three lifelines and bent at both the bottom hole and at the point where the tube entered the base.

Although it might be thought that a stanchion would bend at the mid-hole or, if tapered, near the top, all but the exceptions noted above failed at the compression point where the stanchion emerges from the base. (Tapering is a relatively inexpensive procedure costing a dollar or two.)

It starts with a slight depression and very quickly becomes a deep kink, at which point the integrity of the stanchion disappears.

The aluminum stanchions are different. Firstly, they have more flexibility, meaning that they recover from fairly severe bending. More importantly, they are very strong and retain most of their strength, even when bent severely.

The Bottom Line Because the base should be of unquestioned strength, cast bases (bronze or stainless, but not aluminum) are so superior to fabricated bases that only cast bases are worthy of recommendation. It’s tempting to qualify that statement by saying that fabricated bases might be used if light weight was very desirable; however, making exceptions in safety equipment can lead to regrets.

Of the cast bases in this sampling, those sold by Spartan—especially the bronze model with the excellent drain hole—provided the greatest confidence. The large stainless model from Suncor also appears more than adequate to very heavy usage.

For stanchions, other than the Tops-In-Quality stainless version stiffened with a thick fiberglass rod, none of the hollow stainless tubes are equal to the two solid aluminum stanchions from Goiot and Matella.

The stainless tube stanchions all failed at from 120 to 200 pounds, which, in that emergency setting when someone is thrown hard against the lifelines, is not nearly as good as the reinforced Top-In-Quality, the Goiot or Matella.

The Goiot stanchion is a metric size, which makes it not usable (without some work) with a non-metric base. And the cast aluminum Goiot base fractured at 195 pounds.

That leaves as Practical Sailor’s top choice the new Matella.

Machined of solid 6061 aluminum, assembled with a 7075 aluminum machine screw, the heavily anodized stanchions come with backing plates and 5/8″ nuts. The base even has two O-rings, which makes caulking unnecessary. The Matella stanchions are available in three lengths—26″, 28″ and 30″ and Practical Sailor recommends the longest. They’re even available in colors—bronze, red, green, blue and any other on special order. They fit deck thicknesses from 3/8″ to 1-3/8″.

Two negatives about the Matella: (1) if one is damaged, perhaps by snagging an overhanging dock, the entire unit must be removed for straightening or replacement, which would be more difficult and more expensive than just replacing a bent stanchion; and (2) it is heavy, as mentioned earlier.

On the plus side is the price. A 30″ stanchion, complete, costs $85. By contrast, a chromed bronze Spartan base ($54.65) and the rodded Tops-In-Quality stanchion ($57.90) together cost $112.55 and you must supply your own backing plate and fasteners.

Contacts- Garhauer, 1082 W. Ninth St., Upland, CA 91786, 909/985-9993, www.garhauermarine.com. Goiot, Welmax Marine USA, 220 Lock Rd., Deerfield Beach, FL 33442-1516, e-mail [email protected] . Matella, Box 2849, Big Bear City, CA 92314, 909/584-0168, www.matella.com. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777, 727/545-1911, www.ronstan.com. Schaefer, 158 Duchaine, New Bedford, MA 508/995-9511, www.schaefermarine.com. Signet, 505 Van Ness, Torrance, CA 90501, 310/320-4349, www.signetmarine.com. Spartan, Georgetown, ME 04548, 207/371-2542, www.robinhoodyachts.com. Tops-In-Quality, 314 E. Huron Blvd., Marysville, MI 48040, 810/364-7150, fax 810/364-7925, www.topsinquality.com. Vetus, Vetus Den Ouden, Box 8712, Baltimore, MD 21240, 410/712-0740, www.vetus.com. White Water Inc., White Water Marine Hardware, 13663 46th St. North., Clearwater, FL 33762, 800/572-8871, e-mail [email protected] .

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Used Sailboat Stainless Stanchion 18-1/2″

$ 25.00

Used Sailboat Stainless Stanchion

This is a Used Stanchion with a height of 18-1/2″.

Stainless Steel construction

The base plate measures approximately 4″ x 3″ with  a 4- hole mounting pattern.

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What Is A Stanchion Used For On A Boat?

A stanchion is an important piece of equipment used on boats for a variety of purposes. It is a vertical post or bar that is used to provide support and stability to the boat. Stanchions are typically made from metal, wood, or plastic and can be found in a variety of sizes and shapes.

Stanchions are most commonly used on sailboats to provide support for the mast. They are also used to secure lifelines, which are safety lines that run along the edge of the boat and provide protection against falls overboard. Stanchions can also be used to secure railings, guardrails, and other safety equipment on board.

In addition to providing support and stability, stanchions can also be used as anchor points for mooring lines or fenders when docking a boat. They can also be used as tie-down points for securing items such as kayaks or other watercrafts when transporting them on board.

Stanchions come in many different styles and materials depending on their intended use. For example, stainless steel stanchions are often preferred for their durability and corrosion resistance in saltwater environments. Wood stanchions may be more aesthetically pleasing but require more maintenance than metal ones due to their susceptibility to rot and decay over time. Plastic stanchions are lightweight and easy to install but may not provide as much strength or stability as metal or wood ones do.

No matter what type of stanchion you choose, it is important that it is properly installed according to manufacturer’s instructions in order to ensure its effectiveness in providing support and stability for your boat. Properly installed stanchions will help keep your boat safe while out on the water so you can enjoy your time out at sea without worry!

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Lifeline stanchion questions

• Thread starter Sefuller
• Start date Oct 27, 2015
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I have all the stanchions off our O'day 34 as I am re-coring large sections of the side decks during this layup. I am planning to use G10 in place of balsa core under the stanchions. My original stanchions are one piece, and the bases are rather thin and distorted in places. I am wondering if I ordered new, more substantial bases if I could cut the tubes off of my existing bases and use them in the new bases?  

Attachments

You "could" easily do it but I have one question about your picture. Is that a weld line, or sweated joint, about 2" above the base mount? You may be able to order larger bases with short fitting that the old ones will fit inside and you can bolt them together if you don't want to weld them. Google "Marine Stanchion Base" and get once that fits.  

Distortion allows for drainage underneath. Water entering the tubes need somewhere to exit.  

The line on the stanchion in the image is where the roller furler lead was clamped on. The distortion in the image is on the inboard side - not for drainage - and the distortion varies from base to base.  

Apex said: Distortion allows for drainage underneath. Water entering the tubes need somewhere to exit. Click to expand

Anonymous 121765

Sef, I call mine not lifeline stanchions but, "Lose your lifeline stanchions." I have the same type as you & I hate em. The baseplates & thin wall tubing are very lightweight, it doesn't take much to bend or break. These lightly-made stanchions show up on alot of production boats. This is what you get when going with the low bidder. I would look for "REAL" ones. If you have a used boat parts yard near you, I would check to see if you can find heavier duty ones that will fit instead. I also have matching backing plates made for all of mine that are located below & add more support. As for balsa coring, no you don't want to use this. Not all that familiar with G10 but, at least it's not wood & will not soften or rot. CR  

Look in the classified parts for sale on this site. There is a good deal on a nice set of stanchions there. BTW.....I do not know the seller, nor will I benefit from the sale.  

sailnoproblem

The distortion is from pushing on the stanchion itself and or the lifeline. The OEM products on mid range boats are made of 18Gauge stainless which is considered thin wall. The welded base (flange) looks to be 3/16". If you want a sturdier set make sure the base is 1/4", and the upright tube should be 16Gauge. A bale around the tube and welded to the base would be nice. If you really want to go all out make sure the material is type 304. I have a bit of experience in this field as I manufactured several hundred of these. Most noteably on the Cheribini (not the Hunter)  

25yearslater

Hi Larry. Schaefer made a wider base that requires a quarter inch screw to fasten it in http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=54305 . They were original on a lot of Oday models. Here is a link to how I attached mine after the recore: http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/and-so-it-begins.123244/page-8 post 157. I have had people yank on the lifelines and stations and they don't budge. Easier than backing plates or chasing around lost nuts in the cabin liner.  

mitiempo said: This is a good base at a reasonable price. 316 stainless - why would you want 304? It came from Fisheries Supply but they are available at any marine store. Click to expand

On the 35 the stanchions are two piece construction with a base similar to post number 10 or Joe's post. Rudy at D&R Marine sells them. They have a 4 screw pattern to bolt them down. Also with all the boats getting parted out you might be able to find some used parts from a derelict or wrecked boat.  

http://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DR70-17 http://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DR70-04  

I have looked for a cast base with 6 degree angle to match the angle of my bases, but have not been able to find one. I have asked a local fabrication shop about welding another 1/8" stainless plate onto the bottom of my existing bases, making it essentially 1/4" thick. He said he can do it no problem, probably around $40 each, which is 1/2 the price of buying new tubes and bases. I will probably go this route, and have him tack weld the gate braces in place on the tubes as they use a set screw now which allows them to move when someone tries to stop the boat at the dock by grabbing them.  

charliegrau

You really need new stanchions. Check the SBO store, I bought a couple there and am very happy with them. They were reasonably priced and higher quality than OEM. I particularly liked that the tops were not open but closed stainless steel - no caps needed. My boat has separate stanchions and bases, and I like that arrangement because stanchion replacements don't necessarily require rebedding the base.  

I replaced all of mine and bought bases and removable tubes from gaurher. They were very reasonably priced and worth it. Think is was 70 for each tube/base (35 a piece)  

My existing stanchions have closed tops, and reasonably heavy tubes. I looked at the Garhauer bases previously - they aren't much different than mine - same thickness base, and honestly (though I like Garhauer stuff in general) the bails seem thinner and more likely to bend than the ones I have now. As far as I know mine are original to the boat (1983) so I'm not necessarily concerned with what would be involved if I had to replace one down the road.  

DianaOfBurlington

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• May 13, 2023

Starlink has shaken up its offering for cruising sailors with a crack down on service term violations and new data plans

Starlink, Elon Musk’s low orbit satellite network which delivers low cost high speed internet via a portable dish, has shaken up its offering for cruising sailors and other broadband users at sea.

Starlink has been hailed as a game-changer by many adopters. Since its launch just two and a half years ago, its coverage has expanded rapidly and many cruisers crossing the Atlantic last season reported full service mid-ocean. Even cruisers in remote Pacific regions have been reporting excellent connectivity while at sea.

In March this year, four American sailors were rescued after their yacht Raindancer sank mid-Pacific in what may well be the first Starlink-enabled rescue. While the conventional rescue communication protocols worked effectively, their rescue was accelerated by the fact that several other yachts on the route were made aware of their plight from browsing Facebook while online, and a Whatsapp group was set up to help coordinate their rescue among boats with fast connectivity (see June issue of Yachting World for the full story).

However, most recreational sailors have been using Starlink Roam, previously known as Starlink RV (‘recreational vehicle’) – a plan designed for those in touring vehicles, off grid cabins etc, who needed connectivity whilst stationary – and, critically, on land. The original dedicated Maritime version was designed for commerical use, with subscription initially costing around £5,000 per month.

Starlink dish fitted to a bimini structure on a cruising yacht. Photo: Phil Johnson/SV Sonder

Numerous Facebook groups sprang up, populated with instructions on how to ‘hack’ the standard Starlink dish to improve its connectivity on a moving yacht, though Starlink contracts always made clear that using a modified stardard dish and Roam connection whilst sailing was in breach of its warranty and terms of service.

However, over the past couple of week cruisers have been receiving emails from Starlink notifying them that the company is cracking down on this usage:

“Your Starlink has been used in areas that violate the terms and conditions of your service plan: your plan does not include service on the ocean. Starting as early as May 9th, 2023 you will be unable to connect to the internet on the ocean except to access your Starlink account where you can make updates to your account.”

The message then went on to recommend users change their service plan to one of their new, more expensive, ‘Mobile Priority’ plans (though considerably less than the previous Maritime plan).

It’s important to note that this crack down is not a change to Starlink’s usage permissions, the company is only enforcing its existing terms and conditions.

The notifications prompted a flurry of discusssion on the many Starlink user groups, with some joking that it ‘felt like Y2K all over again’, and concerns that connectivity would be cut off instantly at 0000hrs on May 9 (that wasn’t the case, although some customers have received repeated emails and connectivity warnings).

Starlink at sea

Starlink maps service areas into 15 mile cells, shown on its service maps as blue and black hexagons, determining whether that area is ‘land’ or ‘ocean’, marked in ‘blue’ and ‘black’ respectively. If the satellite technology detects that the dish is being used in a black hexagon it will consider you to be on the ocean. There are, unsurprisingly, a few anomalies – islands and promontories etc which have not been recognised as land etc.

‘Land’ and ‘Ocean’ areas as shown around the Canary Islands on the Starlink map. Source: Starlink.com

Starlink advised Roam users instead move to one of their Mobile Priority plans. However, in a pattern that will be familiar to anyone who’s followed Musk’s rapid-fire changes at Twitter, those policy options went through a series of updates and different pricing plans over the past week.

One possible solution for cruising users may be to subscribe to a Priority data plan which can be ‘toggled’ on and off as they move between land and ocean areas – although some users report that even after toggling ‘off’ they were still using data from the more expensive Priority plan.

Whilst many RV/Roam users have successfully used Starlink’s standard dish whilst in motion, Starlink now offers a dedicated ‘in motion’ option using a higher performance dish. The website currently shows Starlink Martime and Starlink Mobility packages from £247 per month with a hardware cost of £2410, though there are some hefty discounts currently being promoted to existing standard dish owners on new hardware costs

Will a securely anchored yacht running Starlink be viewed as ‘in motion’? Photo: Phil Johnson/SV Sonder

What’s not yet clear is whether the geo-locating technology considers being on anchor or in a marina as stationary or in motion. One email shared on a user group, apparently from Starlink customer service, says:

“You do not need the high performance dish to use in-motion service. However, using the regular dish in-motion voids the warranty, as it wasn’t deigned or built for in motion use. In motion means moving…. A boat at anchor is considered in motion. The bobbing motion will trigger the motion sensors in the dish.

“The non high perforamnce antennas may be used in motion now, and in the forseeable future. We do not anticipate removing this capability. A reminder however that they weill be out of warranty if used in motion.”

However, confusing, Starlink’s own FAQ page , under “Can I use Starlink in motion?”, advises:

“Flat High Performance Starlink is only available to be purchased in certain regions. If your account country is outside these regions, you can use your current Starlink hardware paired with the Mobile Priority data to access prioritized service globally on land and in the ocean while stationary.” [our underline]

User groups advise contacting Starlink direct if, for example, you want to use non-priority data while in port and only occasional in-motion priority data for an ocean passage. Options and restrictions also depend on which region cruisers purchased their dish in, and which address their data plan is registered to. 

The other consensus among user groups seems to be that, unless you need seamless high speed connectivity because you are running a business whilst cruising or similar, not to rush to replace hardware or sign up for new data plans as they are rapidly evolving.

Russia expels 6 British diplomats it accuses of spying. The UK calls it 'completely baseless'

R ussia on Friday accused six British diplomats of spying and said it decided to expel them. The U.K. said the “completely baseless” move came weeks ago and was linked to its action in May to revoke the credentials of an attaché at the Russian Embassy and limit Moscow’s diplomatic activities in London.

The latest East-West tensions unfolded as British Prime Minister Keir Starmer visits Washington for talks that will include Ukraine’s request to use Western-supplied weapons to strike targets inside Russia. President Vladimir Putin has warned that Kyiv’s use of long-range weapons would put NATO at war with Moscow.

Russia’s Federal Security Service said in an online statement that the Foreign Ministry withdrew the British envoys' accreditations, and Russian TV quoted an FSB official as saying it was decided to expel them.

The FSB said it received documents indicating the diplomats were sent to Russia by a division of the U.K.'s Foreign Office “whose main task is to inflict a strategic defeat on our country,” and that they were involved in “intelligence-gathering and subversive activities.” It did not identify the six diplomats.

The FSB warned that if other diplomats are found to be carrying out “similar actions,” it “will demand early termination of their missions” to Russia.

Russian TV said the six diplomats had met with independent media and rights groups that have been declared “foreign agents” — a label Russian authorities have actively used against organizations and individuals critical of the Kremlin.

Foreign Ministry spokesperson Maria Zakharova said in a statement that the diplomats were carrying out “subversive actions aimed at causing harm to our people.”

“We fully agree with the assessments of the activities of the British so-called diplomats expressed by the Russian FSB," she added in an online statement. "The British Embassy has gone far beyond the limits outlined by the Vienna Conventions.”

Kremlin spokesperson Dmitry Peskov said breaking off diplomatic relations with the U.K. was not on the table right now.

In calling the Russian allegations "completely baseless,” the U.K. Foreign Office said the expulsions happened weeks ago, linking them to Britain’s decision in May to revoke the credentials of an attaché at Moscow’s London embassy and to impose a five-year time limit on all Russian diplomats in Britain.

“The Russian authorities revoked the diplomatic accreditation of six U.K. diplomats in Russia last month, following action taken by the U.K. government in response to Russian state-directed activity across Europe and in the U.K.,” the Foreign Office said in a statement. “We are unapologetic about protecting our national interests.”

In May, the U.K. expelled Russia’s defense attaché in London, alleging he was an undeclared intelligence officer, and it closed several Russian diplomatic properties in Britain that it said were being used for spying. About a week later, Russia reciprocated and expelled Britain’s defense attaché .

Expulsions of diplomats — both Western envoys working in Russia and Russians in the West — have become increasingly common since Moscow launched its invasion of Ukraine in 2022.

Last year, the Russian news outlet RBC counted that Western countries and Japan expelled a total 670 Russian diplomats between the start of 2022 and October 2023, while Moscow responded by expelling 346 diplomats. According to RBC, that was more than in the previous 20 years combined.

On his way to visit the U.S., Starmer said Britain does not “seek any conflict with Russia.”

“Russia started this conflict. Russia illegally invaded Ukraine. Russia could end this conflict straight away,” he told reporters.

“Ukraine has the right to self-defense and we’ve obviously been absolutely fully supportive of Ukraine’s right to self-defense — we’re providing training capability, as you know. But we don’t seek any conflict with Russia — that’s not our intention in the slightest,” he said.

Ukraine wants approval to use some weapons to strike deeper into Russia and there are signs that President Joe Biden might shift U.S. policy in response.

While the issue is expected to be at the top of the agenda for their meeting, it appeared unlikely that Biden and Starmer would announce any policy changes at this time, according to two U.S. officials familiar with planning for the talks. The officials spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not authorized to discuss the private deliberations.

Ukrainian officials renewed their pleas to use Western-provided long-range missiles against targets deeper inside Russia during this week’s visit to Kyiv by U.S. Secretary of State Antony Blinken and British Foreign Secretary David Lammy.

Blinken said he had “no doubt” that Biden and Starmer would discuss the matter during their visit, noting the U.S. has adapted and “will adjust as necessary” as Russia’s battlefield strategy has changed.

Litvinova reported from Tallinn, Estonia, and Lawless reported from London. Associated Press writer Aamer Madhani in Washington contributed.