sailboat backstay tension

All Courses
RYA Start Yachting
RYA Competent Crew
Novice to RYA Day Skipper
RYA Day Skipper Fastrack
RYA Day Skipper Practical
RYA ICC Flotilla Course
Sailing Refresher
RYA Coastal Skipper Combined
RYA Coastal Skipper Practical
RYA Yachtmaster Coastal
RYA Yachtmaster Offshore
All Adventures
Mile Builders
Gibraltar to Africa Weekend Adventure
Round the Island Race
KMT Sailing : Cultural adventures under sail
All Yachtmaster Courses
Professional Yachtmaster Fastrack program
RYA Yachtmaster Theory
Extended Yachtmaster Preparation
Passage Making and YM Preparation Course
Online Courses
RYA Online Theory Course
RYA Online VHF / SRC
RYA PPR Online Course
Yacht Charter Gibraltar
Full Day Charter and Half Day Charters
Frequently Asked Questions
Joining Instructions
Special Offers
Gift Vouchers
Pre Course Experience
How to Get Here
Why Choose Jolly Parrot
Jolly Reviews
Where We Sail
Our Jolly Fleet
Helping You Choose
Where are the Parrots?
Gibraltar Weather
Sailing Glossary
Jolly Links
Terms & Conditions
Photo Gallery

When to adjust the backstay and what it achieves

27 October 2020

Many of us will be aware that to trim our sailboat we have various options open to us. This includes sheets, halyard tension, car position , vang or kicker and traveller position. In addition, we can change a sail’s shape and efficiency by adjusting leech tension and create or reduce draft by adjusting the outhaul .

In addition to trimming sails using these control lines, racing boats in particular and smaller keelboats with limited capacity to reef will also rely on the backstay and cunningham in order to change the shape of the sail and power and depower the rig.

The backstay on many yachts is only adjustable by an experienced rigger and requires a deep knowledge of the subject. However, other vessels will have an adjustable backstay meant to be adjusted to suit conditions and point of sail. The adjustment might be by way of a simple pulley system, much like the main sheet mechanism. Other backstays may be hydraulic and they are operated by a pump and release valve. Larger cruising vessels might have an electrically powered backstay.

Adjusting the backstay will either increase the bend of the mast (backstay tension on) or decrease bend of the mast (backstay eased). It’s usual to ease backstay downwind and put on backstay tension when going upwind.

If one over tensions the backstay, it can have a significant effect on the boat, depowering the mainsail. This may well negate the need for a reef. Over-tensioning an adjustable backstay and/or easing or dumping the vang will significantly depower the boat.

Downwind, you would usually keep the vang under tension and ease the backstay although it’s important to realise that the primary purpose of the backstay is to brace the mast and stop it falling forward or breaking!

Fractionally rigged yachts (where the spreaders are spread back and the forestay does not go to the top of the mast) will usually have additional bracing in the form of a running backstay. These are used to help brace the mast below the masthead, where the forestay meets the mast or where an inner forestay might be used. Again, adjustment of the running backstay can alter mast bend and have an effect on boat speed.

Remember, when adjusting rig tension it’s important to release tension gradually so as not to create large ‘shock forces’ which will, over time, induce significant wear and tear to the rig.

Why learn to sail in Gibraltar?

The pros and cons of in-mast furling.

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Upgrade Your Rig With a DIY Adjustable Backstay

At some point when you get serious about sail trim, whether for racing or just high performance cruising, you’re going to want an adjustable backstay. Most C-22s and similar daysailers were rigged at the factory with fixed length backstays that are only slightly adjustable with a turnbuckle. They’re not intended for adjusting to different wind conditions. You set it and forget it.

Consequently, you only have one setting for mast bend and headstay tension. That’s fine for casual cruising. Set it for the conditions that you usually sail in and it will usually be close. But an adjustable backstay gives you a range of trim positions to optimize the mainsail and headsail shape for any conditions, which are what you can encounter when racing or when you’re no longer just a fair weather skipper.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

In other rigging posts on this site, I’ve described how to add DIY controls for each of the three sides of a mainsail:

Luff – Control Mainsail Draft with a Boom Downhaul
Leech – Control Your Mainsail Shape Better With a Boom Vang
Foot – Flatten Your Mainsail Foot with an Outhaul

Each of them secondarily affects the middle or belly of the mainsail a little bit but an adjustable backstay primarily affects it and completes the sail trim picture. Genoa car placement also affects the leech and foot of the headsail and halyard tension also affects the luff. An adjustable backstay primarily affects the belly of the headsail. The cool thing about an adjustable backstay is that it affects the belly of both sails at the same time. It’s a two-for-one control that improves performance both upwind and downwind.

How an adjustable backstay improves sail shape

Your mainsail might have been designed and built with a slight outward curve in the luff specifically to take advantage of bend in your mast. With a fixed backstay or a loosened adjustable backstay, the mast (and consequently, the luff) is relatively straight. This lets the mainsail form a more rounded shape in its belly when it’s filled with air, which adds power and is just what you want in light air. The extra fabric width in the middle of the sail has to go somewhere, so it fills to leeward.

When you tighten an adjustable backstay, the top of the mast curves slightly aft. This makes it fit the curve in the mainsail luff, which flattens and depowers the mainsail, just what you want in a strong breeze. Even if your mainsail has a straight luff, the effect is the same. The mainsail is more efficient and the boat will heel less. Hence, you might not need to reef the mainsail as early or at all.

Similarly, your headsail was probably designed and built with straight luff but it can take advantage of an adjustable backstay as well. With a fixed backstay or a loosened adjustable backstay, the forestay should be tuned with several inches of sag in it. Like the mainsail, this lets the headsail form a more rounded shape in its belly when it’s filled with air, again, just what you want in light air.

When you tighten an adjustable backstay, since it pulls the masthead slightly aft, it also increases the tension on the headstay and pulls the sag out. Then it is straight and matches the luff, which removes some of the belly of the headsail and flattens it, again, just what you want in a strong breeze. Together with the mainsail, it too becomes more efficient.

Incidentally, a tighter headstay can also make your headsail furler work better. An adjustable backstay can also make trailering easier without the need for a quick release lever on the forestay. It lets you slacken the forestay, which can make disconnecting it to unstep the mast easier, especially if you have a furler. If you need just a little more slack, pull the mast forward by hand with one of the halyards.

The simple animation below illustrates this simultaneous flattening of the mainsail and headsail. An adjustable backstay deepens the middle of both sails a few inches.

Another benefit of an adjustable backstay is that after a day of sailing with a tight backstay in a strong breeze, you can slacken the backstay to let the rig relax and release tension on the hull while your sailboat is moored.

Direct vs. indirect backstays

Adjustable backstay designs fall into two types: direct and indirect. With a direct adjustable backstay, the adjuster (typically a tackle system) is integrated into the backstay. The adjuster directly controls the length of the backstay and bears the full load of the backstay. This is the type of system that I’ll describe how to make in this post.

The advantages of a direct system are that it is simpler and therefore, more economical to make. It’s also more mechanically efficient compared to indirect systems, as I’ll explain in a moment. The disadvantage of a direct system is that if any part of the adjuster breaks, the entire backstay can fail. That’s not likely to happen except under extreme conditions and it can be safeguarded against by adding a safety wire or strap to back up the adjuster in case of failure.

With an indirect adjustable backstay, the adjuster (also typically a tackle system) is not integrated into the backstay and it doesn’t carry the full load of the backstay. The adjuster indirectly controls the length of the backstay, which can function without the adjuster. The advantage of an indirect system is that it is more fail-safe. If the adjuster breaks, the backstay can continue to work, albeit without adjustment ability. The disadvantage of an indirect system is that is more complicated and therefore, more expensive to make and to maintain.

The adjustable backstay that was installed on C-22s at the factory is an indirect system that looks like this;

Tightening the tackle system pulls the center ring down, which pulls the bridle wires together and shortens the overall length of the backstay. Another disadvantage of this design is that the more you tighten the tackle, its mechanical advantage decreases.

The angle of the line through the center fiddle block decreases and the angle of the bridle wires through the wire blocks increases. Both of these effects increase the amount of force required to shorten the backstay. The end result is, it’s easier to adjust at the beginning of the adjustment range and harder to adjust at the end of the adjustment range. It gets hardest in strong winds, right when you need it most. That is why most modern backstays are direct designs.

DIY materials list

Following are the parts and materials you’ll need to make the direct adjustable backstay shown. I used a 5:1 tackle system because that’s what I had on hand but you could substitute a 4:1 tackle (two double blocks, no triple block) instead. It’s important that the breaking load of each part is equal to or greater than the breaking load of the backstay wire. You don’t want the adjuster to be the weakest link.

Harken #304 1-1/2″ wire block or equivalent
Harken #94 29mm triple block with cam cleat or equivalent
Harken #85 29mm double block with becket or equivalent
1/2″ x 13 tpi SS eye bolt. The older C-22s used nearly identical eye bolts for the backstay, keel cable attachment, and the chain plate bolts. They’re readily available and inexpensive on eBay. However, the chain plate bolts are not threaded the full length of the bolt to the flange and need spacing washers. The backstay and keel eye bolts are fully threaded, do not need spacing washers, and are preferred for this project.
1/2″ SS washers (4-6 required if the eye bolt is not fully threaded)
20′ x 1/4″ New England Ropes Sta Set double braid
22′ x 1/8″ 1×19 SS wire w/swaged eyes on both ends. This is the main, non-adjustable part of the backstay.
10′ x 1/8″ 7×7 SS wire w/swaged eyes on both ends. This is the adjustable part of the backstay. Do NOT use 1×19 wire for this piece, which is not designed for use with wire blocks.
SS shackles to attach the backstay to the eye bolts

For tips to help you decide whether to make the wire parts of the backstay yourself or to have a rigger make them for you, see How to Replace Your Standing Rigging for Less .

Installation instructions

To assemble and install the direct adjustable backstay shown:

1. If your sailboat already has an eye bolt installed in the port side of the transom, skip to step 2. If your sailboat does NOT have an eye bolt already installed in the port side of the transom, continue with this step. If your sailboat is not a Catalina 22, modify these instructions to provide adequate transom reinforcement.

A. Drill a 1/8″ starter hole through the top of the transom 2″ outboard of the traveler bar (6″ from the port side of the tiller cutout). Place the hole in the middle of the transom thickness. There is a 5/16″ thick brass bar embedded by the factory in the top of the transom for this purpose. Drill completely through the bar.

B. Redrill the hole to enlarge it to 3/8″ or 27/64″ (preferable if you have that bit).

C. Chamfer the fiberglass down to the brass bar with a countersink bit or large drill bit.

D. Tap the hole to 1/2″ x 13 tpi. The finished hole should look like this:

2. Test fit the 1/2″ eye bolt in the hole to decide how many washers you need for a tight fit. The tab of the eye bolt when tightened must point toward the cockpit like the picture below.

3. Apply a 1/4″ cone of butyl tape around the bolt and the underside of the lowest washer so that it will fill the countersink in the transom and squeeze out a little.

4. Apply blue thread locker to the eye bolt threads and install the eye bolt snug.

Do not overtighten the bolt or you might strip the brass threads. If you do strip the threads, then you will need to drill the hole out to 1/2″ and add washers and nuts on the inside of the transom, which is very difficult just to see, let alone work on. This is also a possible workaround if your sailboat is not a C-22. In that case, most owners end up cutting access holes in the front of the transom to install the nuts and then cover the holes with access plates or vents. To make matters worse, the back of the transom has a wood core and is thicker, the front of the transom has no core and is thinner. With the eye bolt centered on the transom, the threaded end of the bolt barely clears the core inside the transom. You will have to cut into the core to create clearance for the washers and nuts. To avoid all this, don’t strip the eye bolt threads.

5. Unstep the mast and, if necessary, move it so that you can work on the masthead.

6. Remove the existing backstay and attach one end of the 22′ wire to the masthead in its place.

7. Step the mast and reconnect the shrouds.

8. Reave the 10′ wire through the wire block and attach the wire block to the loose end of the 22′ wire like this:

9. Use a shackle to connect one end of the 10′ wire to the transom eye bolt on the opposite side (typically the starboard side) from where you want the adjuster cam cleat to be located (typically the port side).

10. Attach the double block with becket to the loose end of the 10′ wire like this:

11. Reave the 1/4″ double braid line through the double and triple blocks.

Use a double luff reaving order like shown below.

Start from the becket on the double block, reave the line through the sheaves on one side of both blocks, through the opposite sides of both blocks in the opposite direction, and exit through the middle sheave of the triple block and the cam cleat. Do not spiral reave the line through the sheaves. Leave a long tail in the line until after the backstay is installed and the rig tuned.

12. Use a shackle to connect the triple block to the remaining eye bolt (typically on the port side) like this:

The completed installation should look like this:

13. With the adjuster slack, check the mast rake and prebend and the standing rigging tuning. If you’re not sure how, refer to the Catalina 22 Tuning Guide from North Sails. If you don’t have a tension gauge, consider purchasing one after you read How To Measure Standing Rigging Tension .

14. Tighten the adjuster just enough to take the slack out of the backstay and so that it won’t interfere with the boom when the mainsail is raised. This will be the minimum backstay tension setting.

15. Tie a stopper knot in front of the cam cleat to prevent the adjuster from being slackened any further.

16. Trim the excess adjuster line to leave about a 1′ tail. Tie another stopper knot on the end to give a better grip on the line.

17. Tighten the adjuster to 25% of the breaking strength of the main wire or the bridle wire, whichever is less . This should bend the top half of the mast aft a few inches. This will be the maximum backstay tension setting that you should not exceed.

For example, if the breaking load of the main wire is 1587 lbs and the breaking load of the bridle wire is 1350 lbs, calculate 25% of 1350 lbs, which is 337.5 lbs or a setting of 25 on a Loos PT1 tension gauge.

18. Mark the adjuster line in front of the cam cleat with a permanent marker. Do not tighten the adjuster beyond this mark when you are sailing.

Now go out and practice adjusting your new backstay in various wind conditions to optimize the headsail and mainsail shape and maximize your pointing ability and speed. When you’re done for the day, slacken the adjuster to the minimum setting.

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for subscribers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

Subscribe to Blog via Email

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Email Address:

Practical Boat Owner

Digital edition

Rig tuning: a practical guide for sailors

August 28, 2023

Correct rig tension will maximise the efficiency of your boat’s sails as well as reduce stresses on the mast. David Pugh demonstrates simple rig tuning

Safety is the number one benefit of tuning your rigging

As a cruising sailor, it’s tempting to simply set up your sail boat rig at the beginning of the season, then leave well alone.

Perhaps you leave the mast up, perhaps you mark the position of the turnbuckles before the mast comes down, perhaps you set the rig up from scratch or perhaps you pay an expert.

All these can work, but none are immune from one basic problem: boats move.

How much depends on the boat’s construction, particularly whether the mast is keel- or deck- stepped, but most will do so within a few days or weeks after the initial rig tension is applied.

The boat may continue to do so over time and rigging may stretch, especially when new, so it’s worth knowing how to correct it yourself.

My own boat, Contessa 26 Red Dragon , is a devil for this.

During the winter she sits on a trailer with the mast down, the keel supported along its length and in turn supporting the superstructure, aided by six pads and a bow post bearing on the boat hull .

At launch, these forces all change: the buoyancy of the hull now supports the keel, and the mast foot pushes down on the laminated deck beam under the step.

The rigging, meanwhile, increases the pressure on the step while trying to pull the chainplates through the deck.

I’ve never measured her beam before and after applying rig tension, but I suspect she becomes significantly wider.

She certainly doesn’t maintain her initial rig tension.

Benefits of rig tuning to get the correct tension

The first and most fundamental benefit of correct rig tension is safety.

An improperly supported mast is put under all sorts of stresses that it is not designed to endure, and dismasting can be the result.

Try sighting up the mast when the boat is close-hauled in a good breeze.

If the lee shrouds are slack and the middle or top of the mast is sagging to leeward, your mast is not properly supported and you should check your rig tension.

The second benefit is efficiency.

Continues below…

Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design

Peter Poland looks at the history of popular rig designs and how the different types affect boat performance

Rigging setup: Turning round a yacht’s performance

Little old boats can offer enormous fun for your money, but they often require some tweaking in order to be…

How to set up your rig: tension your shrouds on masthead or fractional

How to set up your rig: tension your shrouds on masthead or fractional If boats were cars, many of those…

How to check your rigging – video guide

There are plenty of ways that a mast or its rigging can fail, but there are often key telltale signs…

The combination of rig, spars and sails is anything but simple, and if your s ailmaker has done their job properly and measured your boat rather than making your sails from documented figures, the luff curve of the main and the hollow of the jib or jibs will have been cut to suit the bend in the mast and the forestay tension at the time of measurement.

That means you’ll need to be able to replicate that situation when you set up the rig in order to gain maximum efficiency from your sails.

And, just to make things harder, as time goes by and your sails stretch, these optimum settings will change.

Conditions also affect the best settings for your rig.

Light airs demand softer settings than sailing in a gale, and you’ll often see racers tweaking their rig tensions to suit the conditions.

For cruisers seeking to set up and forget about their rig, the best option is to err towards setting up the boat for stronger winds, especially with shroud tension.

Forestay tension can be more dynamic, provided your boat has an adjustable backstay.

Simple rig set up

Some boats have designer’s recommendations for mast rake, bend and rig tension – if yours is one of them, follow the instructions.

The rest of us are obliged to make it up from scratch – so where do you start?

While some professional riggers might be able to assess the tension in a wire with a carefully calibrated shove, the rest of us need a bit of help.

You can either buy a rig tension gauge or measure the extension of the wire.

This latter method works on the basis that, for 1×19 rigging wire, an elongation of 1mm over 2m equates to 5% of the break load of the wire.

Seldén have a good explanation on their website – search ‘Seldén rig set-up’.

The tension you are aiming for will vary from boat to boat and between types of rigging wire, but a gauge will make it much easier to keep the tension even on opposite shrouds.

For the initial set-up the boat should ideally be floating level – it makes it much easier to see whether, despite the measurements, everything looks right.

I find it’s best to be on a finger berth, which allows you to get off the boat to assess whether the mast is upright.

Make sure that the mast is upright

If you’re starting from scratch, begin by centring the mast in the boat.

Leave the lowers fairly slack and use the main halyard to measure to the chainplates on each side.

You can then adjust the bottlescrews to make sure the cap shrouds are of equal length.

Use the main halyard to measure to the cap shroud chainplates on both sides

If your boat is symmetrical, the mast will be upright.

If your mast is keel-stepped, insert the chocks in the partners now before you apply rig tension.

Finally, tighten the cap shroud bottlescrews hand-tight, making sure you put the same number of turns on each.

Set up the mast rake

Next, set the mast rake. If you have a setting from the designer, use it.

If not, you’re most likely looking for a rake of between 1° and 2°, or 1:60 to 1:30.

So for a 9m mast, you would expect the offset between masthead and mast foot to be between 15cm and 30cm.

Measure it by hanging a weight from the main halyard and measuring the distance between the weight and the mast foot.

A forestay bottlescrew on a boat which is adjusted for tuning sail boat rigging

The forestay bottlescrew sets mast rake

If it’s windy, hanging the weight in a bucket of water will help damp the swing of the halyard.

Pull on a little backstay before using the forestay bottlescrew to move the masthead fore or aft and adjust the rake.

The backstay helps the masthead to move – with no tension, the forestay will simply become slack as you back off the bottlescrew.

Steeper rakes tend to go with fractional rigs, but this is by no means a rule – you may need to experiment to find what works for your boat.

Increasing the rake will increase weather helm , and vice versa.

Tension the cap shrouds

It’s now time to begin tensioning the rigging properly.

Take the slack out of the lowers at this stage, but don’t tighten them fully yet.

Then, using your tension gauge and making sure you keep the number of turns on each side equal, tension the cap shrouds to their working tension.

Most tension gauges are calibrated to show a percentage of the breaking strength of the wire: with my boat, I find that around 15% is sufficient to keep the rig taut in the conditions in which we sail.

A gauge being used on a boat for rig tuning

A gauge makes rig set-up easier

If you have a keel-stepped fractional rig with swept spreaders you should carry out this stage with the backstay fully tensioned, as it will initiate a bend in the mast which is fixed by tightening the caps.

If you do this, be careful that the mast does not go out of column side to side – if it does, ease the backstay slightly.

Once the caps are tensioned, sight up the mainsail luff groove to check whether the mast has any bend, fore and aft or side to side.

If you have swept spreaders you can expect it to have some fore and aft bend, but otherwise it should still be in column.

If it isn’t, don’t worry too much unless the bend is large, as you can remove small errors with the lower shrouds.

Sight up the luff groove to check that the mast is in column from side to side

Set the mast pre-bend

The lower (and intermediate, if you have them) shrouds are your opportunity to set fore and aft mast bend, as well as preventing the middle of the mast sagging off to leeward.

It’s advisable to have at least some pre-bend in your mast to avoid it inverting downwind.

For straight spreader rigs, the lowers do all the work in setting bend. Start by tensioning the babystay or forward lowers.

The optimum amount depends on how your mainsail is cut – for a stiff masthead rig like mine I only look for about 10cm of bend with the backstay off, measured by holding the main halyard tight to the foot of the mast and eyeballing the deflection.

Use a second spanner to hold the shroud still when tensioning the bottlescrew

This usually equates to around 7% of the wire break load on the gauge.

For more flexible masts and fractional rigs, you will probably need more bend.

Again, use the tension gauge to keep the tension even from side to side.

Finally, tighten the aft lowers, enough to remove any slack but not to significantly alter the mast bend.

Swept spreader rigs will tend to have lower and intermediate shrouds set abaft the mast, so the simplest thing to do is to tighten them enough to maintain the bend set when you tensioned the cap shrouds.

The tighter they are, the less the mast wants to bend, which will help transfer backstay tension to the forestay but will make it harder to flatten the main with mast bend.

The optimum setting will depend on your sails and the conditions.

Check the mast is straight

With the fore and aft bend set, check the mast is still in column side to side.

Hopefully it will be, but if it isn’t, use the lowers and intermediates to true it up.

On a single spreader rig the aft lowers are usually the best tool for this, but if the bend is significant you might need to relax the opposite forward lower, if there is one, to allow the mast to move.

If you do, make sure you retain the fore and aft bend, and keep checking the tensions in all the lowers to keep them as even as possible.

With the bend set and the mast straight, go back and check the tension in the cap shrouds.

It may have reduced with the mast bend, in which case bring it back up to your desired tension.

Tension the backstay

With the rig basically set up, tension the backstay bottlescrews to your minimum working tension.

I set ours to about 7% of the wire load, with application of the tensioner taking it up to around 17%.

Even on a stiff masthead rig like ours, this compresses the mast enough to introduce significantly more bend, and more importantly for us dramatically increases forestay tension.

With a backstay bridle like this, check the tension above the joining plate

If you don’t use a backstay adjuster, set the backstay to a similar tension to that of the cap shrouds, then go forward and check the forestay.

The tension should be similar, and will help with your upwind performance.

The above will give you a good initial set-up, but there’s no substitute for seeing how it behaves under sail.

Head out in a moderate breeze, put the boat on the wind and hand over the helm to someone else.

Then check your leeward cap shrouds.

They should still be taut in these conditions – if they aren’t, you need more rig tension.

White sails filled with wind on a sail boat

In a moderate breeze, the leeward shrouds should stay taut

Next, sight up the mast to check it is still in column. If the middle sags to leeward, tighten the lowers.

If the tip sags off it could be the middle popping to windward or the tip sagging.

Both over-tight lowers and loose cap shrouds will have this effect, and it can be dangerous as it reduces the angle at which the cap shroud meets the masthead, making its support less effective.

If you have this problem, check your tension settings before making a decision which to alter.

Rig tuning: conclusion

A well-tuned rig makes a boat sail better, while ensuring your mast is correctly supported is a safety essential.

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, boats move, so although you should be able to leave your mast rake and side-to-side centring alone, keep an eye on the shroud tensions.

They may well reduce, especially in the first weeks after setting up the rig, so don’t assume that all is well.

You keep an eye on your engine levels – five minutes with a tension gauge or a wander around the deck under sail will do the same for your rig

Enjoyed reading Rig tuning: a practical guide for sailors?

A subscription to Practical Boat Owner magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

PBO is packed with information to help you get the most from boat ownership – whether sail or power.

Take your DIY skills to the next level with trusted advice on boat maintenance and repairs
Impartial in-depth gear reviews
Practical cruising tips for making the most of your time afloat

James Suggitt

David Flynn

The backstay is a powerful tool and you should introduce it to your toolbox for more than just keeping the rig in the boat. No matter what the rig type or stiffness the tensioning the backstay keeps the headstay from sagging. Headstay sag equals extra power in the headsail, so when you don’t want the power (heeling too much) use the backstay. On boats with rigs that bend, the backstay helps depower the mainsail. When you add backstay tension on this type of rig you are essentially compressing a straw. The mast bends forward at the middle pulling the luff away from the leech thereby flattening the sail. It is a hugely powerful tool which allows you take your mainsail from full and powerful in light air to flat and open in the leech for windier conditions. As the breeze builds and you start to generate too much heel and helm use your backstay!

The Discussion

This website uses cookies and collects usage statistics. Privacy Policy

Us, too. We pour that passion into each of our newsletters to help you enjoy sailing even more.

New Sailboats
Sailboats 21-30ft
Sailboats 31-35ft
Sailboats 36-40ft
Sailboats Over 40ft
Sailboats Under 21feet
used_sailboats
Apps and Computer Programs
Communications
Fishfinders
Handheld Electronics
Plotters MFDS Rradar
Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
Anchoring Mooring
Running Rigging
Sails Canvas
Standing Rigging
Diesel Engines
Off Grid Energy
Cleaning Waxing
DIY Projects
Repair, Tools & Materials
Spare Parts
Tools & Gadgets
Cabin Comfort
Ventilation
Footwear Apparel
Foul Weather Gear
Mailport & PS Advisor
Inside Practical Sailor Blog
Activate My Web Access
Reset Password
Customer Service

Free Newsletter

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review

AquaMaps with Bob’s blue tracks and my green tracks at the start of the ICW with bridge arrival times. (Image/ Alex Jasper)

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Make sure someone is always keeping a lookout on the horizon while the tillerpilot is engaged. If there are a few crew onboard, it helps to rotate who is on watch so everyone else can relax.

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Irwin Vise-Grip Wire Stripper. (Photo/ Adam Morris)

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

600-watt solar panel system on Summer Twins 28 sailing catamaran Caribbean Soul 2. (Photo/ Clifford Burgess)

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Using only what they had available onboard, the cruisers rebuilt a broken clue on their genoa which lasted for thousands of miles of sailing.

Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew

This Hayn Hi-Mod shackle was securing a shroud. The shackle failed without damage to the threads when the rigging wire snapped and the pin unscrewed. Thankfully, there were no injuries and the deck-stepped mast fell to leeward with limited damage to the Corsair F-24. (Photo/ Jim Love)

Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost

This is the faulty diesel lift pump, the arrow is pointing to the sluggish primer lever. That is an issue because the fuel lift pump needs to provide the right amount of fuel and fuel pressure to the injector pump. (Photo/ Marc Robic)

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

Instead of dreading a squall, think about it as a way to fill up your water tanks. PS tested ways to make sure the rainwater you catch is clean, tasty and safe to drink.

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

This is the original Yanmar 4JH5E 54hp normally aspirated engine supplied by Beneteau. We've done 6,000 hours over the last 13 years. (Photo/ Brett Campbell)

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

A V-Guide in use on stainless pulpit railing. V-Guides keep your drill bit from walking off either side of the curved surface. They are a helpful tool in this scenario since stainless requires steady, slow, lubricated pressure to drill properly.

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Little things that are hardly necessary but nice to have start in the galley.

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

The edges of open shade can read as high as 25 percent of sunlight when surrounded by a white deck. (Photo/ Drew Frye)

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

America's Cup sailboats have progressed from deep-keel monohull J-class Yachts, to regal Twelve Meters, to rambunctious wing-sailed catamarans. The rule now restricts boats to a single hull, but allows retractable, hydraulically actuated foils. Top speeds of 40 knots are common. (Photo/Shutterstock)

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Harken Boasts Best Overall Quality Among Backstay Adjusters

Others we like are the wichard ratcheting model and for sheer value, the c. sherman johnson adjusters..

In these times when everyone seems interested in tight tacking angles, a taut forestay is the ticket to ride.

And to create a taut forestay you need an equally hard-working backstay.

If youre a serious racer, the forestay-backstay combination is needed to bend the mast to change the mainsail shape. If youre a club racer or cruiser, its to take most of that awful sag out of the jibs luff.

To ease off the tension-when on other points of sailing or to make it easier to furl up the jib-you need a backstay whose length can be readily changed.

Further, one of the most important functions of any backstay adjuster is to ease the strain on the rig and boat when at anchor, when docked or when hauled-for repairs or for seasonal lay-up. Leaving a boat unnecessarily burdened with extreme tension in the standing rigging is like leaving the Kentucky Derby winner saddled for a week.

The quickest way to pump up or release the pressure in the triangles made by the backstay, the mast, the forestay and the boat is with a hydraulic pump. Theyre costly. Well deal with them in a subsequent report.

For now, weve assembled all the mechanical backstay adjusters we could find. All sizes. All shapes. Theyre not cheap, mostly because they must be strong and foolproof.

Included in the international collection are backstay contraptions from Dermac, Harken, Hasselfors, Johnson, R.D.M. Sparcraft, Spinlock and Wichard. (An English firm, Barton, and an Australian company, Ronstan, used to make backstay adjusters but have dropped out of the competition.)

These seven devices benefit from a single engineering approach. Each utilizes the immense power of simple threads cranked with a lever of some sort. What results is nothing more than a compact, circular version of the Egyptians inclined plane, which enabled them to build pyramids.

In alphabetical order, here are the choices.

Dermac The French-made Dermac is a tapered chunk of polished stainless steel with T-toggled shackles at both ends.

It has two fold-up, arc-like handles made of black powder-coated aluminum. Tension on the handles is via nylon washers-not the best, but they can be tightened by taking up on the handles axles.

Because Dermac uses 10 threads per inch on the rod, it will extend or retract an inch quicker than, for instance, will the Harken, which has more threads. However, the load will be heavier.

The stainless threaded rod comes out of the body covered with black grease, which is unsightly and could collect dirt, carrying it back inside. Worse, perhaps, someone who leans against it or grabs for a handhold would not be pleased.

The welds attaching the T-toggles to the stainless body are neither artistic nor as mechanically well done as they could be. However, someone thought to drill a drain hole in the bottle toggle.

The shackles are made of stainless plate rather than forged and the finish on the shackles is poor. The ends of the clevis pins are quite rough, a far cry from the fine surface finishing and polishing of Wichard. (A good mirror finish on stainless is not just cosmetic; its a vital part of the anti-corrosion protection.)

There are three entirely different sizes of Dermacs. The one for 7/16″ clevis pins lists for $450. The 1/2″ is $490. The 5/8″ is $725. The prices are list and should be about a third less at discount if ordered through West Marine or Boat/U.S.

Harken As with virtually all Harken gear, the Harken backstay adjuster is a quality piece of work.

Made in Italy by Barbarossa (which Harken owns), it comes in four sizes (pin sizes from 1/2″ to 3/4″) and standard strokes from 5-1/2″ to 8-11/16″, with custom lengths available in the two larger models.

The 7/16″ and 1/2″ pin models have fold-down handles. Because of the fine threads, youll be turning these handles about 20 times per inch of linear adjustment. Thats a lot of turning. The handles stay folded down and store in the up position with good springs that eliminate any annoying rattles.

The larger ones operate with a standard winch handle, which is much more convenient if you have the room to swing the handle.

The Harkens have O-rings at the top to keep water out of the sealed worm tube. The rod that extends is clean.

Made largely of solid stainless and chromed bronze-with bronze worm gears, bronze thread drives and greased bearings on moving parts-the Harkens are heavy equipment. They range in weight from nearly 4 pounds to more than 8 pounds.

Breaking strength? Forget it. Youll never break one of these.

Considering the perfectionist (and massive) approach, the Harkens are not badly priced, considering that they discount about 30% to $650 to about $1,600.

Hasselfors Made in Sweden, the Hasselfors backstay adjuster comes in one model, two sizes-one with almost a 10″ throw, the other with 15-3/4″.

Both sizes, made for 13 mm clevis pins, have a breaking strength of 14,333 pounds.

Both are adjusted with a standard winch handle powering a worm gear. The driven gear is bronze, the driver is stainless with needle bearings.

Because the worm has seven turns per inch, and is cranked with a continuous-motion winch handle, the Hasselfors is the second quickest to retract or extend.

The entire mechanism, along with the threaded rod, is nicely encased in anodized aluminum tubing regularly used by Hasselfors to cover turnbuckles. Plastic caps keep the aluminum from touching the stainless.

Although somewhat semi-custom, the Hasselfors adjusters are not very expensive. The large model, which has the greatest throw of any stock backstay adjuster, lists for $630

Johnson If Harken is elegance, C. Sherman Johnson is working man tough.

The Connecticut company buys good stainless steel, uses the steel wisely with what-you-see-is-what-you-get engineering and doesn’t have to build into its budget much, if any, money for warranty work.

Johnson backstay adjusters, for pin sizes ranging from 1/4″ to 5/8″, are basically turnbuckles (for which Johnson is noted) with locking handles. They have T-toggles and heavy shackles at both ends. The bronze toggle heads are threaded on 5/8″ bronze rods to prevent any galling.

The adjuster is operated with stainless steel fold-out handles that are stamped and bent in a C section. The C shape engages a large stainless nut on the top of the barrel to lock the turnbuckles in a simple, foolproof manner.

The handles work surprisingly well and, with 18 threads per inch on the larger models, the adjuster is on a par for power with Harken.

Because of the thrifty engineering, the powerful Johnson adjusters are relatively light in weight, which along with their reasonable cost adds to their allure.

For comparison, a Harken adjuster for 3/8″ wire, a 5/8″ pin and a breaking strength of 16,755 pounds weighs nearly 10 pounds. It has a stroke of 7″. It costs more than $1,000.

A Johnson of similar specifications weighs 3 pounds, 12 ounces and costs $220. The Johnsons downside: The stroke is 6″ and it doesn’t shine.

R.D.M. Sparcraft Imported from France by Charleston Spars in Charlotte, North Carolina, the R.D.M. adjusters are meant for either backstays or inner forestays. For the latter, a Wichard shackle replaces the standard jaws.

The R.D.M. adjusters have stainless bodies, toggles and worm screws. The worm drive is about 6-1/2 threads per inch, making this the fastest drive unit of all. For quick adjustments, thats good. However, it also means that it will be much more difficult to crank in the upper levels of tension.

The nut body (the housing that advances or retracts the worm) is made of bronze, which is cotter-pinned to a black-anodized aluminum ring to which the fold-down arms (spring-loaded when stored) are attached. The aluminum ring is so indifferently made that one cranking arm comes down perpendicular to the shaft, but the other stops about 10 or 12 short of perpendicular.

On the model examined, the not-very-smooth weld affixing the toggle to the worm screw already was showing the telltale brown color of what appears to be corrosion.

The R.D.M. adjusters come in two sizes-for 3/8″ and 1/2″ pins.

They list for $310 to $514.

Spinlock The little Spinlock backstay adjuster in our collection is from a small British firm known for its hiking sticks and line-handling hardware (including a new and very unusual rope clutch that we will be examining in a few weeks).

The Spinlock adjusters, intended for boats in classes like the J/24, Melges 24 and Etchells, are two-handle devices like the Johnson discussed above. Theyre meant for all stays and shrouds, not just backstays. They have about a 3″ throw but the 22-per-inch threads mean youll be turning 22 times to take up or ease an inch.

Among the refinements on the Spinlocks are numbers (from 0 to 65 mm) laser-etched on the machined stainless barrel to permit repeatable changes (as on Ronstans Sealoc turnbuckles, which also can be fitted with a wrench-like handle).

A unique Spinlock touch is the articulated jaw base to take up any misalignment or sag. It makes a toggle unnecessary. The take-up collar is bronze, as it should be, to avoid the galling that can occur when the threads on both the stud and barrel are stainless.

Spinlock very properly is quick to advise that when used on backstays, care should be taken as these turnbuckles have no end stop.

The Spinlocks currently come in three sizes-for 4 mm, 5 mm wire and 3/16″ wire, to which it is intended that the adjusters be swaged.

With the marked calibrations and the locking handle, the Spinlocks would be great to have on all stays and shrouds of any small boat when its time to step and tune the mast. Great except that they cost $150 a shot vs. about $20 or $30 for a standard jaw-swage turnbuckle. For a boat with uppers and lowers, the total cost would be about $900 worth of Spinlocks instead of $150 for standard turnbuckles.

Wichard Widely known for its shackles, Wichard makes two basic adjusters.

One version, for 1/4″, 9/32″ and 5/16″ wire, is available with either a wheel adjuster or a single fold-up lever. A larger version with a ratcheting handle, for up to 3/8″ wire, comes in two lengths. Except for the very , which takes a 5/8″ pin, all take 1/2″ pins, which seems like a good idea.

The wheelie version is popular and discounts for about $316. It has a 6-1/4″ black-anodized wheel turning against a bronze collar to adjust the stainless threaded rod and even an arrow to tell the operator which is the tensioning direction. The handle version, which you use as a wrench, slipping it on and off the turning nut, has a rubber grip and stows in a rubber clamp.

Both have T-toggles beautifully welded on the stainless rod and excellent shackles.

On each model, the stainless barrel has a cut-out slot with stamped numbers, ranging from 0 to 160 mm, and a handy red indicator button. Its very well done.

The large Wichards have good throws-17-5/16″ x 26″ and 19-7/8″ x 29-3/4″-and have excellent switchable ratchet mechanisms that, along with a 12-to-the-inch threaded rod, make them the easiest of all to adjust.

The Wichards, with breaking strengths right up to or slightly exceeding the equivalent Harken and Johnson counterparts, discount to $1,160 for the large model and $620 for the smaller version.

Bottom Line The word contraptions was used early on in this report to describe these devices. Thats unfair, if the word has for you a negative connotation. All of these devices are well made, as they must be. A backstay and all parts thereto must not fail.

With the Spinlocks in a separate category, our view of the larger backstay adjusters has to do with ease of operation, weight and finish and appearance.

For ease of operation, the winch-handled Harkens and quick-adjusting Hasselfors are excellent, but our choice would be the single-lever, ratchet-model Wichard, followed by the two-handled Harken.

For light weight, the Johnson is the clear standout.

For finish and appearance, wed rank them Harken, Wichard and Dermac.

Best overall are the smooth-operating Harkens, but theyre heavy-both in weight and in price.

Firm holder of the weight/price middle ground is Wichard, which makes good gear-especially the single-handle ratchet models.

The Best Buy by a mile and a quarter is the two-handle Johnson.

Contacts- Dermac, Marinox, 401 NE 8th St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304. 800/379-3330. Harken, 1251 E. Wisconsin Ave., Pewaukee, WI 53072. 414/691-3320. Hasselfors, Selden Mast, Inc., 4668 Franchise St., N. Charleston, SC 29418. 800/571-0440. Johnson, C. Sherman Johnson Co., Inc., Industrial Park, East Haddam, CT 06423. 860/873-8697. R.D.M. Sparcraft, Charleston Spar, 3901 Pine Grove Circle, Charlotte, NC 28206. 704/597-1502. Spinlock, Maritime Supply LLC, 42 Grandview Terrace, Essex, CT 06426. 860/767-0468. Wichard, 507 Hopmeadow St., Simsbury, CT 06070. 860/651-8406.

Latest Videos

The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review

Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat

The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens

Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and Tricks

Latest sailboat review.

Privacy Policy
Do Not Sell My Personal Information
Online Account Activation
Privacy Manager

Fractional Rig: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 21, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer fractional rig:

A fractional rig is a sailboat mast configuration where the forestay (the wire or rope that supports the mast from the front) attaches to a point lower on the mast than its highest point. This design allows for greater control over sail shape and is commonly found in high-performance racing boats.

Understanding Fractional Rig: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction: Sailing is an art that requires a deep understanding of boats, their components, and how they work together to harness the power of the wind. One essential aspect of sailboat design is the rigging system, which plays a crucial role in determining a boat’s performance and handling characteristics. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of fractional rigs – their purpose, composition, advantages, and tips for optimizing their use on the water.

What is a Fractional Rig? A fractional rig refers to a sailboat’s mast setup where the forestay (the wire or cable running from the top of the mast to the bow) does not intersect with the mast at its top point. Instead, it attaches at some point below it. This configuration creates two distinct sections in terms of percentage height: one shorter section above and one longer section below this intersection point – usually around 7/8 or 9/10 up the mast’s length.

The Purpose and Advantages of a Fractional Rig: 1. Versatility: The fractional rig is highly versatile as it allows sailors to adjust sail area quickly according to changing weather conditions while maintaining balance and control. 2. Enhanced Performance: Due to its ability to distribute loads more evenly along the mast, a fractional rig enables increased stability and reduced pitching moment during strong winds. 3. Improved Upwind Performance: By positioning more sail area forward compared to other rig configurations like masthead rigs, fractional rigs generate better drive upwind resulting in higher pointing angles. 4. Simplified Sail Handling: With lesser reliance on heavy overlapping headsails common in conventional rigs, managing sails becomes less physically demanding during maneuvers such as tacking or reefing.

Components of a Fractional Rig: 1. Mast Section: The mast used in fractional rigs often has slightly different dimensions than those employed in other systems due to its specialized function. Its shorter upper section allows for better control of the mainsail’s shape, while the longer lower section offers increased downwind power. 2. Forestay: The forestay is connected to the mast below its top point and usually runs from a fitting on deck to secure bow fittings. Its angle and tension can be adjusted to optimize sail trim and overall rig balance. 3. Backstay: Unlike a conventional rig where the backstay connects at the masthead, in fractional rigs, it attaches lower down – generally above or just below the intersection point with the forestay. Adjusting its tension further influences mast bend and sail shape .

Tips for Optimizing Fractional Rig Performance: 1. Experiment with Tensions: To maximize your boat’s capabilities, don’t hesitate to experiment with various forestay and backstay tensions until you find the optimum balance between mast bend, sail shape , and wind conditions. 2. Master Sail Controls: It is essential to understand how to adjust jib halyards, cunninghams, reef lines, vang tension, and other controls that directly affect sail shape and power distribution. 3. Fine-tune Rigging Settings: Regularly inspect all rigging components for wear or damage and fine-tune settings such as shroud tension or spreader positioning to ensure proper alignment and stability of your fractional rig.

Conclusion: The fractional rig is an ingenious design approach that empowers sailors with increased versatility, enhanced performance characteristics, improved upwind ability, and simplified sail handling. By understanding its composition, advantages, and optimizing techniques discussed in this comprehensive guide, you will be better equipped to master the art of sailing using a fractional rig system. So hoist your sails high with confidence as you explore new horizons guided by the power of an intelligently engineered fractional rig!

How to Set Up a Fractional Rig: Step-by-Step Instructions

Setting up a fractional rig may seem like a daunting task, but with our step-by-step instructions, you’ll be able to tackle it with ease. Before we dive in, let’s first understand what a fractional rig is.

A fractional rig refers to the configuration of the mast and stays on a sailboat. Unlike a masthead rig where the forestay attaches at the very top of the mast, a fractional rig has its forestay attached at a point lower on the mast. This design offers increased maneuverability and performance, making it popular among racing sailors.

Now that we know what a fractional rig is, let’s get into the nitty-gritty details of setting it up.

Step 1: Start by prepping your boat Before you even think about setting up your fractional rig, make sure your boat is properly prepped. Clean off any debris or dirt from the deck and check that all hardware is in good working condition. It’s crucial to have everything in place before proceeding.

Step 2: Assemble and attach your mast With your boat prepped, it’s time to assemble and attach the mast. Lay out all the sections of your mast and make sure they are aligned correctly before connecting them together. Once assembled, carefully raise the mast so that it sits securely in its step or tabernacle. Use proper support equipment if necessary for additional stability.

Step 3: Securely attach shrouds and stays Next comes attaching the shrouds (sideways supports) and stays (fore-and-aft supports). Begin with attaching the lower shrouds to their designated points on both sides of the hull. Ensure they are securely fastened using appropriate tensioning devices such as turnbuckles or pelican hooks.

Move on to attaching any intermediate shrouds if required for added stability – this will depend on your specific boat design. Finally, secure your forestay at its designated attachment point on the mast. Remember, in a fractional rig, the forestay attaches lower on the mast compared to a masthead rig .

Step 4: Tension your rig Once all the shrouds and stays are attached, it’s time to apply tension. This step is crucial as it ensures proper alignment of the rig and maximizes its performance. Use a tension gauge or similar tool to achieve the recommended tension specified by your boat’s manufacturer or tuning guide .

Ensure you evenly distribute tension across all stays and shrouds, avoiding any overtightening or loose spots. This will help maintain balance and prevent any unnecessary stress on the mast or rigging elements.

Step 5: Check for proper alignment and adjustments Now that your fractional rig is set up and properly tensioned, it’s time for some fine-tuning. Stand back and visually inspect how everything lines up – look out for any twists or misalignments in the mast or stays. Adjust as necessary.

If you notice any excessive sagging in your forestay, consider adjusting the jib halyard tension accordingly. Similarly, pay attention to mainsail luff tension by utilizing cunningham or downhaul controls provided on your boat .

Step 6: Test sail and make final adjustments With everything aligned and adjusted to perfection, take your sailboat out for a test sail . Pay close attention to how the boat performs – observe its handling characteristics in different wind conditions.

During this test sail, make note of any potential issues or areas that could be further improved. These observations will guide you in making final adjustments once you return to shore.

And there you have it – a step-by-step guide on how to set up a fractional rig! While this explanation may seem technical, don’t forget to approach each step with confidence and patience. With practice, setting up your fractional rig will become second nature, allowing you to fully enjoy all its benefits while out on the water.

Frequently Asked Questions about Fractional Rigging: Explained

Title: Demystifying Fractional Rigging – Your Comprehensive Guide to Frequently Asked Questions

Introduction:

Fractional rigging is a crucial aspect of sailing that often poses several questions for novice sailors and even some experienced mariners. In this blog post, we aim to shed light on the most commonly asked questions about fractional rigging, providing you with a detailed, professional, and insightful explanation. So let’s dive in and unravel the mysteries !

1. What is Fractional Rigging?

Fractional rigging refers to a sailboat configuration where the forestay (the cable supporting the mast from the bow) is attached at a point below the masthead. This setup determines how much of the sail area of a boat is located forward versus aft of the mast.

2. How does Fractional Rigging differ from Masthead Rigging?

In contrast to fractional rigging, masthead rigging involves attaching the forestay directly at or near the top of the mast. This design places more sail area ahead of the mast compared to fractional rigs, offering improved upwind performance but compromising downwind speed potential.

3. What are the advantages of Fractional Rigging?

Fractional rigging provides numerous benefits depending on your sailing preferences and objectives: – Enhanced control: The lower forestay attachment point allows for precise adjustment and tuning options during varying wind conditions. – Improved performance: Fractional rigs excel in upwind sailing due to increased ability to depower sails quickly, resulting in better stability and maneuverability. – Increased versatility: Unlike masthead rigs, fractional rigs exhibit superior characteristics across different wind strengths and points of sail .

4. Are there any downsides or limitations with Fractional Rigging?

While fractional rigs have many advantages, there are certain considerations as well: – Reduced downwind potential: Compared to masthead rigged boats, fractional rigged vessels may experience slightly slower downwind speeds due to lesser sail area positioned forward. – Complexity in tuning: Fractional rigs require more meticulous tuning, as the lower forestay attachment demands careful balancing of mast bend, rig tension, and sail trim . This tuning process can be time-consuming for less experienced sailors.

5. Can I switch from a Masthead Rig to a Fractional Rig?

Switching from masthead to fractional rigging is indeed possible but requires significant modifications. The conversion involves adjusting various elements, such as installing a new lower forestay attachment point and adjusting the sail plan accordingly. It’s essential to consult a professional rigger before undertaking such conversions.

6. How do I determine if my boat has Fractional Rigging or Masthead Rigging?

Determining whether your boat features fractional or masthead rigging can usually be done by inspecting where the forestay attaches on the mast. If it connects below the top of the mast, you have a fractional rig; otherwise, it’s likely a masthead rig.

7. Are there any specific maintenance requirements for Fractional Rigging?

Fractional rigging typically requires regular inspections to ensure its structural integrity and optimal performance: – Check for signs of wear and tear on all standing rigging components. – Regularly inspect fittings, turnbuckles, spreaders, and shrouds for corrosion or damage. – Perform periodic re-tuning of your fractional rig as per manufacturer specifications or with expert guidance.

Conclusion:

Fractional rigging possesses unique advantages that cater to different sailing scenarios while providing enhanced control and performance characteristics. By understanding these frequently asked questions about fractional rigging, you’ll be equipped with invaluable knowledge that will help you optimize your sailing experience. Remember to consult with professionals for advice specific to your boat model before making any major changes. Happy cruising!

The Advantages and Benefits of Using a Fractional Rig

When it comes to sailing, technology and innovation have played a crucial role in making the sport more accessible and enjoyable for enthusiasts . One such advancement that has revolutionized the sailing world is the fractional rig. This ingenious system offers numerous advantages and benefits to sailors, whether they are beginners or seasoned professionals.

To start with, let’s understand what exactly a fractional rig is. In simple terms, it refers to a sailboat rigging configuration where the forestay (the wire supporting the mast from its front) attaches below the top of the mast. Unlike a traditional masthead rig that secures the forestay at the very top of the mast, a fractional rig provides versatility and improved performance on different points of sail.

One advantage of using a fractional rig is its ability to offer better control in various wind conditions. The adjustability it provides allows for fine-tuning sail shape and balance, enabling sailors to optimize their boat’s performance. Whether you’re battling strong winds or gliding along in light breezes, being able to make precise adjustments can greatly enhance your sailing experience .

Additionally, compared to masthead rigs, fractional rigs offer increased maneuverability and responsiveness due to their lower center of effort . With less weight aloft, boats rigged with fractional systems are more agile and quick to respond to helm inputs. This allows sailors greater control over their vessel’s movements, especially when tacking or gybing.

Another significant benefit lies in the reduced loads experienced by both the hull and rigging components throughout maneuvers. By moving away from relying solely on headstay tension for stability under heavy winds, fractional rigs distribute loading more evenly along multiple stays – such as intermediates or runners – leading to decreased stress on hardware and overall increased safety levels.

What truly sets fractional rigs apart is their versatility across various points of sail . Compared to masthead rigs limited by upwind performance primarily, fractionally rigged boats excel in both upwind and downwind conditions. The adjustable forestay allows for a wider range of headsail options, enabling sailors to choose the most appropriate sail area for the prevailing wind strength and angle. This flexibility translates into improved speed, pointing ability, and overall performance across different points of sail .

Additionally, fractional rigs often feature smaller headsails – such as genoas or jibs – which are easier to handle than larger sails traditionally found on masthead rigs. This can be especially advantageous for sailors who prefer single or short-handed sailing, as it reduces physical strain and makes maneuvering the boat more manageable.

Finally, from an economic standpoint, employing a fractional rig can translate into cost savings over time. Smaller headsails generally require less fabric and maintenance compared to their larger counterparts. Moreover, the reduced loads on standing rigging components result in decreased wear and tear, prolonging their lifespan and lowering maintenance expenses.

In conclusion, using a fractional rig offers a range of advantages and benefits that enhance both the enjoyment and performance of sailing. From better control in varying wind conditions to increased maneuverability and improved versatility across points of sail, this innovative rigging system is truly a game-changer for sailors . So consider embracing this technology if you’re in search of enhanced sailing experiences – you won’t be disappointed!

Fine-Tuning Your Sailboat with Fractional Rigging: Tips and Tricks

Fine-tuning your sailboat with fractional rigging is a skill that can elevate your sailing experience to new levels. While the basics of rigging are essential, mastering the art of fractional rigging requires attention to detail, precision, and a touch of finesse. In this blog post, we will delve into the world of fractional rigging and share some tips and tricks that will empower you to optimize your sailboat’s performance .

Understanding Fractional Rigging:

To start off, let’s clarify what exactly we mean by “fractional rigging.” This term refers to a type of rig setup where the forestay is attached at a point below the mast’s top. Unlike a traditional rig setup where the forestay is attached at the masthead, a fractional rig allows for more efficient control over sail shape and balancing. The finer adjustments possible with this configuration can prove invaluable when it comes to maximizing speed and handling in various wind conditions.

Tip 1: Balancing Your Sails for Optimal Performance

One of the primary advantages of fractional rigging lies in its ability to fine-tune sail balance. To achieve optimal performance, it is crucial to ensure an appropriate balance between the mainsail and headsail. By adjusting tension on both halyards – main and jib – you can optimize leech tension and maintain proper airflow across your sails. Excessive headstay sag can lead to reduced pointing ability, while excessive mainsail luff tension can cause excessive weather helm. Experiment with different tensions until you find the sweet spot that offers maximum efficiency.

Tip 2: Controlling Mainsail Shape with Backstay Tension

Managing mainsail shape plays a pivotal role in harnessing wind power efficiently . With fractional rigging, backstay tension becomes an essential tool for shaping your mainsail on different points of sail . As you tighten or release the backstay, you will notice changes in both luff curve and mast bend. Take the time to familiarize yourself with how these adjustments affect your sail’s shape and make incremental changes based on wind conditions. Remember, a flatter mainsail works better in higher winds, while more depth can be beneficial when the breeze is light.

Trick 1: Fine-Tuning Rig Tension for Added Stability

Finding the right rig tension can enhance stability and control, contributing to overall performance. A useful trick involves adjusting cap shroud and lower shroud tensions. Incremental modifications to these tensions will influence your boat’s balance between weather helm and lee helm. If you find yourself fighting excessive weather helm, consider loosening the cap shrouds slightly or tightening the lowers. Conversely, if you experience lee helm, try tightening the cap shrouds or loosening the lowers. Striking a harmonious balance will result in improved handling and speed.

Trick 2: Mast Rake Adjustment for Upwind Performance

Fine-tuning your mast rake can significantly impact upwind performance by optimizing lift generated by your sails. By adjusting forestay tension (using either adjustable turnbuckles or backstay adjustment), you can alter mast rake subtly. Experiment with different settings to determine what works best for your boat and prevailing wind conditions. Keep in mind that a more raked mast generally provides increased pointing ability but may reduce overall downwind performance.

Fine-tuning your sailboat with fractional rigging requires a combination of knowledge, practice, and intuition. By understanding how different adjustments impact sail shape, balance, stability, and performance characteristics, you can gain a competitive edge on the water. Remember to always experiment incrementally, document changes made, and observe their effects before settling on an ideal configuration for each set of conditions you encounter. With these tips and tricks under your belt, prepare to take your sailing prowess to new heights as you fine-tune your sailboat with fractional rigging !

Common Mistakes to Avoid when Implementing a Fractional Rig

Implementing a fractional rig can be an incredibly beneficial decision for any sailing enthusiast or boat owner. It offers improved control, better balance, and increased efficiency on the water. However, like any complex system, there are common mistakes that inexperienced or unaware individuals often make when it comes to setting up and using a fractional rig. In this blog post, we will explore some of these pitfalls and provide you with professional insights on how to avoid them.

Mistake #1: Neglecting Proper Measurement and Tuning

One of the critical aspects of implementing a fractional rig is accurately measuring the mast height and properly tuning the rig. Failing to measure your mast correctly can lead to improper sail shape, reduced performance, excessive weather helm, or even mast failure in extreme cases. Take the time to measure your mast height accurately before choosing sail combinations or making adjustments.

To ensure proper tuning, consult with experts or refer to manufacturer guidelines specific to your boat model. Adjusting shrouds and stays too tight or too loose not only compromises performance but also poses safety risks. Utilize specialized tools like a Loos gauge when tightening standing rigging for accurate tension readings.

Mistake #2: Incorrect Placement of Fractional Attachment Point

Placing the fractional attachment point incorrectly is another critical error often made during implementation. This point determines where the jib’s tack attaches to the forestay above the deck level when running with smaller headsails (e.g., jibs). Placing it either too high or too low can result in imbalanced forces on the boat while sailing close-hauled or reaching.

If placed too high, excessive tension can be created in both forestays – leading to increased loads on hardware and potential structural damage. On the other hand, if positioned too low, it could cause excessive twist in larger sails – affecting overall power delivery and balance under various wind conditions. Therefore, carefully consider consulting knowledgeable sailing professionals or referring to design plans to ensure proper placement of this attachment point.

Mistake #3: Neglecting Proper Planning and Execution

Perhaps the most common mistake made during the implementation of a fractional rig is neglecting comprehensive planning and proper execution. Rushing into modifications or adjustments without careful consideration can lead to unnecessary expenses, compromised performance, or even jeopardize the safety of all onboard.

Before implementing a fractional rig, it is crucial to thoroughly evaluate your boat ‘s characteristics, sailing goals, and intended usage. Consider how various factors such as mast height, forestay length, sail combinations, and crew capabilities will impact performance. Pay attention to detail when setting up your rig by following manufacturer recommendations or consulting with experienced riggers who can offer tailored advice based on your specific needs.

Mistake #4: Using Inappropriate Sail Combinations

Matching sail combinations appropriately with a fractional rig is crucial for optimizing performance and preventing undue stress on the mast and other rigging components. One common mistake is utilizing oversized headsails with excessive overlap on staysail/stemstay setups.

Using overlapping headsails that are too big can lead to an imbalance in forces between headstay and inner forestay (stemstay), thus causing excessive loading on these components. This unbalanced load distribution can result in poor handling characteristics, diminished control while tacking or gybing maneuvers, compromised pointing ability in upwind conditions – ultimately undermining the benefits of a fractional rig setup.

To avoid this error, consult sailmakers or experienced sailors knowledgeable about fractional rigs regarding appropriate jib sizes for different wind strengths and expected sailing angles.

Mistake #5: Ignoring Regular Inspection and Maintenance

Lastly, neglecting regular inspection and maintenance is a common oversight that can have severe consequences for your fractional rig’s longevity and reliability. Failing to conduct routine checks for signs of wear, corrosion, loose connections/joints, or damaged components significantly increases the risk of catastrophic failure while at sea.

Develop a periodic inspection checklist or refer to manufacturer guidelines to assess critical points such as mast fittings, spreaders, stay and shroud terminals, turnbuckles, block attachments, and any other components integral to the rig’s integrity. Addressing minor issues promptly will help ward off major failures and ensure a longer lifespan for your fractional rig.

In conclusion, implementing a fractional rig can be an exhilarating endeavor that enhances your sailing experience. However, it is crucial to steer clear of these common mistakes discussed in this blog post. Remember to prioritize accurate measurement and tuning, ensure correct placement of the fractional attachment point, plan meticulously before execution, select appropriate sail combinations for optimized performance, and conduct regular inspections and maintenance for long-term reliability. By avoiding these pitfalls and taking heed of professional advice provided here, you will be well on your way towards maximizing the advantages offered by a fractional rig setup while enjoying safer and more rewarding adventures on the water!

More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
Don’t Forget About The Sails
Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
Reefs: How Many and How Deep
Reefing Made Easy
Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
Reefing Questions and Answers
A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
Sailboat Deck Layouts
The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
The Case For Hank On Headsails
UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
Rigid Vangs
Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
12 Great Rigging Hacks
9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

John, Great article and series. Question are you re-pouring the Spartite every time you step the mast? or are you using the Spartite blocking to help reset the mast in the correct location?

No, you can reuse the Spartite. In the last part I will cover a whole bunch of tips and hacks to make subsequent stepping very easy, including that.

And no, the whole point is that mast blocking changes nothing. The mast position is set before we block. Please see parts 2 and 3 for more on that. Particularly the theory in part 2. Also, in this chapter I write:

At this point, the mast should have space all around it at the partners, but almost certainly won’t be in middle of the hole either athwartships or fore and aft, and that’s just fine, as we learned in previous chapters. So let’s not screw up the great tune we just did by trying to force the mast into the middle of the partners. As long as we have enough room for some blocking, all is good.

Hi John, Continues to be an excellent series. Thanks. There are two other reasons besides boat movement to consider when tightening the rigging screw and you find the tension on the shroud/stay is not increasing that have come to my attention over the years. A couple of times I know of the mast base being corroded to a thin section (hard to see from the outside) and the mast was literally being ground into the mast step with the compression tensioning of the rigging screw. The other time, the shroud had a wire or two broken at the entrance to the swage at the top of the mast and tightening the shroud just was unraveling the shroud from the swage. Lots to watch out for. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi Dick, as clear as this sounds it leaves me clueless – so it should be prudent to get atop to check all wirings after finishing the tune? How are you handling this?

Hi Ernest, Thanks for pointing out the need to clarify. I was merely trying to say that I have bumped into other reasons for the lack of increase in wire tension when tightening the rigging screws. That said, it is always a good idea to eyeball all swages after the rig is tuned. My best, Dick

A couple of very good points, thank you.

On the same subject, I was wandering around a boat yard looking for masts to photograph to clarify flat butt syndrome, and was distressed to find that the vast majority had no butt fitting at all. Meaning that the raw extrusion is being placed directly on the step, a recipe for corrosion over time, and very poor practice.

John, This is the problem that I have. There is a piece if 1/4″ aluminum plate in the bilge and the extrusion just sits on that. I think the plate is held down by a couple of machine screws. I have been trying to find a design for a butt fitting and an adjustable mast step. So far I have not found anything. So i have started to design my own. Any suggestions?

I’m pretty sure you can get both from Selden mast. Not sure if they will do a custom job for another mast manufacturer section, but that’s where I would start the search.

If not, a mast butt is simply machined from a solid block of aluminium to the OD and shape of the mast, with a insert part of say 1″ machined to ID of the section. The bottom should have a slight arc as discussed in Part 1.

Then the two pieces are mated together with a heaping helping of TefGel and fastened with SS machine screws.

I will write more about this, and screw jacks, when I clarify “flat butt syndrome” and what to do about it.

Hi John, By chance I had the mast out of the boat when your articles were first published, so it was very interesting and helpful thanks. I thought our production boat experience might be helpful for others as it also lead to some head scratching on my part as we have no butt fitting in our Z-Spar mast. The mast rather sits in a solid cast aluminium shoe that is bolted in place to a cross girder – and I gather this acts as a “female” plug and mast base in one. There is almost zero play once the mast is in its shoe and no way to adjust the mast base position when in there. The partners are formed by an opening in the deck above with a bolted on alloy mast collar, also with very little play around and no adjustment. With the mast in place, it is almost perfectly raked and centred with the stays slack (as in your instructions). I know that with moderate pre-bend settings we are so balanced (small to moderate amount of weather helm in most wind strengths) when sailing upwind or reaching she will usually sail herself with no autopilot – I guess one blessing of a well worked out production boat (Beneteau 473). Anyway, following your article I questioned our rigger who was replacing the stainless rigging (after 15 years) and he said ours was the most common set-up and they seldom see boats here (production or otherwise) with a mast plug. Given we have little play fore and aft (nor seem to need it) and there was no visible wear or damage on the mast butt, there seemed little point fitting one. The rigger’s advice was to leave it as designed. We did have corrosion in the aluminium mast shoe, but this was around the stainless tie rod that ties the mast collar to the shoe and prevents the deck from working from halyard loads. So please excuse a different kind of “plug” – we decided to replace both the Z-Spar shoe and collar which arrived by courier with some other rigging mast parts in just 4 working days from the USA to NZ. It seems every single part for our 16 year old mast is available (almost entirely ex-stock) at a very reasonable price from their web-site: https://www.usspars.com/boat-information/?vendor=Beneteau&model=OC+473#section-display . Our rigger was mightily impressed – great service US Spars! Rob

Hi John and everyone, I am sure I have seen mast butts, but I do not remember having done so in all the boatyards I have walked around, nor have I ever owned a boat where the bare mast extrusion did not sit directly on the step. And the same for all the friends I have helped with their work over the years. So, I am intrigued and wonder what the benefit/drawback would be of a retrofit. Mine is a quite dry boat, so I have little corrosion. I would also have to see whether the turnbuckles could tolerate whatever the length the mast butt would add to the overall mast height. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Distressingly, you are right, a proper mast butt fitting is not common. That said, its still good practice, both for corrosion prevention and so that the bottom can have a slight arc to make tuning easier and more consistent. And yes, if we add an butt fitting, we need to trim the bottom of the mast the same amount. Often not a bad idea because of the very corrosion you mentioned in an earlier post.

I’ve seen them, but only in the context of some sort of depression in a deck-stepped “tiny tabernacle” where the mast butt, often a chamfered sort of rectangle, fits into a matching “female” spot on deck, after which a pin is put through a second extrusion.

We have a very large tabernacle (over a metre high) for our deck-stepped mast which allows the mast to pivot down for canal transits and related service or transport. But we do not have a fabricated mast butt; the mast sits on a rubber pad to keep it from metal on metal wear, but it wouldn’t be too hard to have one made and to remove whatever length of mast it augmented to leave the mast height at zero. Thanks again for getting me to consider something I had never really thought of!

It’s good to hear that the builder got this right and given that they did, it sounds like you are all good. I think what we can learn from this is that for a long production run boat like yours, with a builder who has deep experience, there is a good chance of getting things right without leaving any adjustment. However, with boats that have shorter runs, and are less “manufactured” I still feel happier if the builder has given us room to adjust.

Further, I suspect that the general move to deck stepped masts in the last few years is because builders no longer want to provide adjustment, or risk getting the partner to step relationship wrong.

Also good to hear about the great parts service.

Regarding Spartite I found a nice 3-part series on youtube showing how the Spartite tightening is done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTakwY3JcY8&start_radio=1&list=RDPTakwY3JcY8

Just hope you have thoughts to share on how to tune a solent rig. Can get the forestay to have no appreciable sag but not the solent stay. Also we have a removable inner stay for our storm jib. It’s only set up for passage. At present set it up to be tight and not deflect beyond 1/2” when pressed on at shoulder height but clueless as to whether this is good thinking. Doing so does seem to put a bit of pre bend in. Finally uncertain as to how to handle the hydraulic backstay when using the storm jib. Would seem more tension would give more sag. Have noticed with the solent you flatten things initially but then get nothing by going further.

Hum, I don’t think that the solent rig is at the core of your problem. Rather I think your basic tune is flawed, and that, in turn, is making everything else a problem.

So, I would recommend that you do a complete, from scratch, tune job, starting from chapter 1. The only variation I would add, would be to slack the fore stay completely and tune as if the solent stay was the only one forward.

Once you have rake and prebend all set, but before you tighten the backstay and solent stay to sailing tune (see above) tighten the forestay to just firm, but on no account tighter than the solent. Then proceed as above, but tightening all three (backstay, solent, forestay) together. As you do that, monitor the prebend with the reference line (part 3) and make sure you are not getting a hard spot in the curve near the top or changing the prebend much.

Your goal is to end up with an even curve and the solent just a bit tighter than the forestay since it is the solent that you will be using in heavier weather.

As to the storm jib stay, see Part 2 and Part 3 for how that should be set in relation to the running backstays. (If you don’t have runners opposing the storm jib stay, then they should be added.)

Another good post. A few thoughts in reaction to it:

I agree completely on Spartite. I have been that guy trying to put wedges back in. It is not that I think wedges don’t work, they just need to have a very low taper angle which also makes them quite long so that you can get a good fit which often interferes with stuff mounted on the mast above the partners. Spartite is also much quieter which is a big deal for me at least.

On how much tension to put in the backstay/forestay, I am not sure that all 40′ boats would do well to have a strong person really crank on a set of 12″ wrenches. On our boat with a 5/16″ backstay (often found on 40’ers) and corresponding 5/8″ thread size in the turnbuckle, I can get to 20% of wire breaking strength quite easily with a set of 8″ wrenches. I do a good job of cleaning and lubricating the threads and have a lot of experience dealing with highly torqued fasteners. If you assume a k factor of 0.2 (which is really like using loctite on clean threads, grease will be even lower) on a 5/16-18 thread, it only takes about 26 ft lbs to get to 2500 lbs of tension which is 20% of breaking strength. This would only be 26 lbs of force at the end of a 12″ wrench which is not a whole lot if you have good body position. I suspect that many people have poor threads and don’t lubricate appropriately which leads to very high k factor and resulting difficulty in getting to tension but if done right, it isn’t that hard. I suspect that part of the reason for the results you posted are also likely related to diameter, as diameter goes up, you need more torque for a certain tension and I would assume your backstay turbuckles are significantly larger diameter than what you would find on a 40’er.

We do use a tension gauge in 1 place which is to set forestay/backstay tension. Due to geometry, our forestay has slightly more stress so we put the gauge on it and adjust until it is at 20% of breaking. If we had hydraulics, we would just look at the gauge there but we do not. This results in more tension than ideal in lighter air but seems to be the best overall compromise.

One other silly thought is that I find it much easier to use the vice grip style crescent wrenches for tuning although I have never seen them in large sizes so it may not apply to boats over about 40′.

That’s great, thanks. I agonized about that tension part, more than any other, to the point that Phyllis and I tried it twice to see what we ended up with. That said, I think you are right that relative diameter between your turnbuckles and ours may be the variable. Anyway, really good to have your analysis on that. I will add a note to the chapter pointing at your comment and caution.

What do you think of my graphing idea to determine when a hull can take no more? I know that back in the day when I ocean raced we tended to pump up to truly frightening numbers when going to windward in big breeze, and typical only stopped when the gauge stopped going up. Of course, these were not our boats and a lot of this went on when the owner was off watch!

I noticed that in one place in my previous post I said a 5/16-18 thread where I meant a 5/8-18 thread. The numbers should otherwise be right. If the thread were 5/16, it would take about half the torque for the same load which would be very easy to get into trouble with.

I have not previously given much thought to your question about graphing load versus displacement on the backstay, thankfully I have always sailed sufficiently stiff boats to not run into that. I have no special knowledge in this area so my comments are only educated guesses. My initial reaction is that if you are only finding the stiffness of the hull, that is not a big deal as stiffness of a structure tends to be relatively constant across its stress range (this is why you see the Modulus of Elasticity) and relative deformation doesn’t tell you anything about stress, only absolute. However, if you truly get to a point where there is no backstay tension increase at all with displacement of the ram, then there is an issue as that would imply you have gotten into plastic deformation which is not reversible. Telling the difference between these can be tricky as the slope can be low but not zero and you can have no plastic deformation. One thing that would worry me is if I slowly needed additional piston displacement to get to the same loads over time. This wouldn’t be a valid measure on new rigging but once it has settled, you could measure piston extension and if you had less over time for the same pressure, that would worry me (I am assuming that creep of the fiberglass hull is small enough that it would not be an issue with this but I haven’t actually tried to check that). Of course, shock loading while sailing can get higher than the load that you set things at and if you were actually plastically deforming structure, you would expect to see some amount of slackening. Regardless, your suggestion to not keep cranking if the load isn’t increasing seems valid.

I suspect that the designers of lightly built racing boats have had to give this some thought so they probably know what it means much better.

Eric, we have 12 5/16″ stays and it takes some time to tweak them. I use either a long screwdriver (with a lanyard around my wrist!) or vise-grips of the pointy kind. I agree that if the threads aren’t galled, it is not hard to get them to the state where the deflection suggests they are in the desirable 20% zone. Still, as I used to use the simpler Loos Gauge for my old boat (1/4″ wire size), I feel I should invest in its bigger brother just to be sure I have even tension on opposing sides of the mast. I know to look for slack on the lee shrouds, but “slack” is a very imprecise term! I prefer foot-pounds or Newtons or whatever I can verify.

Ah the days of sticking a screwdriver through an open body turnbuckle. I found a crescent wrench with long jaws that I used to put across the turnbuckles. This spring when we got new rigigng, we went with the Stalock supajust ones which have a proper flat for a wrench.

I am someone who is a big believer in knowing exactly how to tighten or adjust every faster and/or adjustment. In my production designs, I specify how to tighten and what thread treatment on every single fastener or other adjustable feature, usually with some form of bolt torque although most designs have a few items that use a different method. Of course, torque is the poor man’s bolt tension. In this case, I am with John that measuring tension is not necessary to get what you want as you won’t know what tension to set to other than for the forestay/backstay. Regarding getting the two sides equal, I am pretty sure that the mast is effectively very flexible compared to the rigging so if you have the mast properly straight, tension is equal side to side. In the end, what we want is a mast that has the shape we want and rigging that doesn’t flop around when the wind gets up. Tension is certainly one way of looking at this but knowing what tension to set to is the trick, an engineer could calculate it but it would be extremely labor intensive and require very good correlation of the design drawings and the actual boat. Since we don’t have this, the first time tuning is done sailing and then there are easy ways to get back to that tune that are position based although tension would be an acceptable way of doing it. I suspect John’s next section will be covering exactly how to do this.

Like you, I’m a holly terror for setting things like torques right (we carry two torque wrenches) and there is nothing I would like more than if boat builders published appropriate tension settings for each rigging component based on full engineering analysis. But in the real world that’s not happening so I think we also have to guard against falsely thinking we are being “scientific” when in fact we are not.

For example, I always have a bit of a secret chuckle when I see sailors carefully checking the shrouds each side for equal tension and nodding sagely when they end up being the same, since, as you say, they always will be, or at least when measured by the inaccurate tension devices commonly available.

Bottom line, we need to recognize the limits of our understanding.

On that note, what do you think of the Selden mast stretch test for determining rig tension? It seems like a good idea to me. But on the other hand, I suspect we must also guard against not being really clear in our minds about the potential inaccuracies due, but not limited, to age of the wire and different wire manufactures. http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/pbo-tested-4-rig-tension-gauges-45215

All that said, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you keeping an “engineering watching brief” on my efforts, particularly around tuning, but also over the last few years as I have delved into other technical areas. So, as always, thank you.

I just looked at the “folded rule” method for the first time and in theory, it is perfectly valid. To carry a load, all structures must deflect. Another way of saying this is that stress is proportional to strain, the proportion being the modulus of elasticity. Stainless steel is one of the nice materials where this modulus is pretty constant over the stress range. All this goes to say that if you known the amount of deflection in a structure with known geometry, you also know the stress (actually, this is one of the best ways of measuring it). The numbers given by PBO are for 1X19 stainless wire but this method would work just fine for other constructions if you know what the correct displacement this corresponds to. I would think that 1X19 is consistent enough and there should be no other factors unless you have something like really severe corrosion.

The question that I have would be in how consistently it can be implemented. The deflections are quite low so you need to really have a stiff rule that is well attached to the shroud so that your setup is repeatable. Also, different people will start with different amounts of tension in the shrouds which will have some effect. In theory, you won’t end up putting exactly the same number of turns on each side but it will be pretty close and if you count, you could always even it out in the end. I believe that all of these effects will be pretty small but they will be there.

Overall, this seems like a reasonable method to me although I have never tried it.

Once again, thanks very much for your help. In light of our discussion, I’m thinking about a partial rewrite of the above to recommend either a gauge or the “folding rule” method for setting head stay/backstay tension. And further recommending that tension not exceed 25% of break load of the wire. That recommendation would also apply as the upper limit for those with adjustable back stays—conservative I think, particularly when measured against common practice on racing boats, but then we are cruising here, so no need to take silly risks.

I will leave in the stuff about being mindful about the limits of some hulls to take even that load.

Would you agree that was a good way to go?

I am happy to try to help, I enjoy reading and contributing to your site and also learn a lot from it.

What you are proposing seems reasonable to me. 25% of breaking is a reasonable number. As you say, someone like you who has a lot of experience can probably do it without a measurement tool but for less experienced, some way of measuring tension for the forestay/backstay seems like a good idea whether it be a hydraulic gauge, tension gauge or the folding rule method.

Great, I will get the rewrite done based on that. Thanks again for the help.

I appreciate your comments. I also agree that if you get the important parts of tuning and mast bend correct, you are most of the way to a proper tune that allows the sails to work effectively without stresses the rig unnecessarily. I will still probably get that larger Loos gauge as I had a considerable improvement in sailing characteristics when I used its little brother to tune up my previous boat’s rigging.

I don’t see any referens to the “folding rule” method as described in the Selden rigging brochure. It is a simple way of measuring the actuall tension in a wire by measuring its elongation.

No, simply because I have never used it. That said, it does sound like a good option for those that want to get really scientific about this. Also, you will note that I linked to an article that does explain the method.

Hi John, in the context of your hydraulic backstay adjuster notes, what formula are you using to convert from PSI to pounds tension? Are you basing the conversion on the cross-sectional area of the 1×19 wire? Working back from Harken/Navtec specs, I have 2.1 lbs. pull force = 1 psi, but I don’t know how they are calculating that.

Hi Douglas,

To convert from PSI to tension on any hydraulic cylinder we just need to multiply the PSI by the pressure area of the cylinder, which is the area of the ram surface minus the area of the rod. Or to put it another way, the area that the hydraulic oil pushes on. So, for example, if you read 1000lb on the psi gauge and the pressure area is 2.1 the tension on the stay will be 2100 lbs.

Thanks John. Without detailed specs of the cylinder it’s difficult to know the piston (ram) diameter, so I’m just going to go with the manufacturer’s pull-force specification, which in the case of my Navtec adjuster (and repeating what has been said), is PSI * 2.1 = pounds pull-force.

That should work. That said, if you want to verify and dig into the Navtec site you will find detailed specs on each of the cylinders. I did this myself for the article, although I do remember that finding the information took a while.

Hi. I would like to ask about the use of the inner forestay (cutter-stay) and the runners, as I find it very confusing, and I really struggle to find information on how to use it. If anyone have any book or website, or knowledge to recommend/share on it, I would be very grateful!

My OVNI has a removable inner forestay. I can easily adjust it with a handle on deck. I also have fwd and aft lowers, and as you say, those are the ones to use to set the prebend (especially since my inner forestay is removable).

However, if I am to put any amount of tension on the inner forestay, it will immediately start bending the mast unless I have the runners tensioned. And to get a decent tension for the sail to be used in the stronger winds that I tend to use the staysail in, it will bend the mast a fair bit without the runners tensioned! I think I have realized that I’m mainly supposed to adjust the tension on the inner forestay with the runners (in the same way that you would adjust the “normal” forestay with the backstay).

I now want to go to windward, tacking, and that’s easy, because I can close haul with both runners tensioned. Bear off and I just slack/remove the leeward runner. Easy.

But now I want to do a gybe, and now I need to slack both runners to make room for the boom on the leeward side, AND the new leeward side after the gybe (or pull the mainsheet in quite a lot, which makes the boat feel very “skittish”).

Is it okay to not use any runners for a few minutes during a gybe, which will allow the mast to bend a fair bit?

And also, is it okay to tighten up the inner forestay to induce additional mast bend during sailing (with or without using the staysail or runners)? I do not have an adjustable backstay, so it won’t tighten the forestay, but as I see it, it will flatten the mainsail.

I feel like I am asking very basic questions here, but I have tried really hard to comprehend this. I’ve read all of the sail handling and tuning chapters many times over, and done countless hours of experimenting onboard, but I just struggle with this one. Sorry if I’m beating a dead horse here!

Kindly, Arne 🙂

Good question.

I started to answer this, but it got way too long for a comment, so I will deal with it in a Q&A article.

May be a few weeks as I have a lot of other stuff on the go at the moment.

Hi, that is way better than I could have hoped for, and I’m happy to wait for it, well aware you got a lot on your plate with so many useful and big topics being tackled these days (and working on your own boat)! 🙂

Feel very free to edit my question for clarity and brevity.

It’s a good question and exposes a gap in our Online book, so definitely need to fix that right. Thanks for your patience.

I’m working on tuning my mast after having it pulled and new rigging installed. I was doing pretty well until I saw this weird through-bolt setup in my box of parts and remembered that at the partners there was a 1/2″ SS threaded rod going through the mast with blocks on them. Essentially through bolted blocks. They’re messing with my tune, and it actually looks like I’d have to lift the mast ever so slightly to even get the rod through. It seems some of the weight of mast would then be sitting on the deck and not the keel. I don’t see anything like this on any mast I’ve looked at, and am considering leaving it out, hard spots, partially unloaded mast step, etc etc being my considerations. Has anyone seen this sort of thing before?

B056D396-686B-40BE-98C0-AC49F6A130C2.resized.jpg

Hi Timothy,

Wow, that’s a first for me too, and I’m at a loss to come up with any purpose for it.

That said, I did have one nasty thought: maybe the reason the bolt won’t go through is that the mast step has compressed down since the boat was built. Unfortunately mast step problems of this type are quite common on older boats.

And maybe someone in the past thought that adding this bolt would move some of the compression loads to the deck. Not a good idea in my view since there is no way I can see that the deck would be able to support much load in that direction.

The other option is that the deck has bowed up, which is quite common in the absence of tie bars, which again is quite common.

So if the boat does not have tie bars, this was probably someones idea to stop the deck bowing up under the inward loads from the chain plates…hum…more I think about it, the more I like this theory. Are there any tie bars present to hold the deck down? If not, you definitely don’t want to leave the bolt out.

I would also check around the step very carefully for any deformation. It might even be worth pulling the mast again to really check this area. Also check outside the boat around the keel in the way of the step for any signs of deformation.

What sort of boat is this?

Hi John, the boat is a Passport 40. It does have a tiebar and turnbuckle on the fwd face of the mast to keep the deck from rising up. This threaded rod appears to be original as the hole is very true and had the original paint on the edges, and the wedge bits are very nicely machined.

The mast step is an aluminum shoe on a mild steel plate, and it needs some love as the steel plate has exposed edges but I don’t think it’s compressed at all, both appear flat and they rest on a solid resin block atop the ballast plug.

For the moment I have it in with the original blocking because I have to get somewhere (breaking my own rules with a schedule!), but I’m going to pull it when I get where I’m going and then use spartite instead of these blocks and that rod. I had to “tune” to the existing wedges for now, but I think plumb and true situate the spar offcenter in the partner

This guide has been invaluable and I’ll have to say makes tuning a fairly easy task. I have a double spreader rig and the intermediates are continuous so that makes getting wows out even easier as all adjustments are on deck.

Hi John and Tim,

I too haven’t seen this but I think John is likely on the right track as to why it exists. On a keel stepped mast, the mast is pushing down on the mast step with a huge amount of load, something like 90%+ of all of the stay tensions added up before you put up any sails. Depending on how the base of the mast is setup, if there are halyards, reef lines, outhauls, etc that leave the mast, if the turning block is deck mounted, that turning block is pulling the deck up while the other end of that line is pulling the mast down. As John says, you tend to get mast step compression and deck lifting with the usual solution being a tie bar, rod, wire, etc.

From a design perspective, it would be very seductive to do what appears to be the case here as it will be lighter. Instead of having a mast section in lots of compression next to a tension member, you could just react some of the mast compression at deck level and have less compression in the mast below deck. I think where this gets tricky is the tolerances of it. Given general boatbuilding tolerances, I doubt you could have a standard dimension where the hole for this partners fitting goes as all your tolerances will add up to a significant portion of boats not having the load where it should be. It would probably be possible to have a procedure for drilling it as an assembly the first time it is put together. It would also be possible to have a shimming procedure although it seems like it would be quite likely these would be lost or messed up in the future. And then of course, you have the issues related to tuning as making 2 points rigid during tuning at the bottom of the mast really changes how you have to do your tuning procedure.

When you say you can’t get the bolt through, is there tension in the rig? It is quite possible that when you slack it off, it would assemble.

Seeing Tim’s latest comment, the Passport 40 is a Bob Perry boat and he used to do consulting for a reasonable fee. I would certainly hope he would have guidance on what to do with this if it is original. You could also see if there is an owner’s forum as that would also probably confirm if it was original or a later addition.

Thanks for the fill on that. All makes sense to me.

One other thought on getting the bolt through: could it be that Passport intended the tie bar at the front of the mast to be preloaded a bit, as well as the rig being slack, before the bolt goes through?

Anyway, I think asking Perry is the best bet. And, on balance, I would be nervous about leaving it out, even though installing it does complicate tuning.

I strongly suspect that this piece is at least intended to be installed with the rig slack so that it shares some load. Whether it already carries a preload or has a small gap that takes up as the rigging is tensioned would be a function of the design purpose and the stiffness of the hull, deck and mast section. It should be possible to figure out but the amount of calculations or testing is quite high and it would be better to hear what the original intent was.

It is also entirely possible this is a hair-brained idea that seemed good until you dive into the details, there are certainly tons of examples of those in products. One of the rules that I make my team live by even in early prototypes is before we add an adjustment, we need analysis to prove it is needed and if it is needed, we need to have a procedure for adjusting it before releasing the design. The reason for this rule is that I have seen so many issues from people who don’t follow it and I have been pulled into help fix these messes more than a few times.

Hi. How would you go about adjusting twin backstays? On my boat I have two separate backstays that goes from each aft corner and up to each their attachment on the masthead.

I have a mast tune I am somewhat satisfied with, but I have no real clue wether the two backstays are symmetrical or loaded correctly. I am unable to judge wether the mast bends in a desirable way when loaded, although it looks quite okay when sitting on anchor. I feel that I am able to point slightly higher on one tack than the other, and I suspect this might be part of the issue (more headstay sag on one tack maybe).

Also when tensioning the stays, they will almost double the headstay load when on anchor (how is that with your rule of thumb tightening force). But under sail, I presume the windward stay would carry most of the load, and that might result in an under-tensioned rig if not tensioned hard enough? In essence, they would sort of behave a bit like runners I guess (only mine are not adjustable).

Kindly, Arne

I don’t think that the headstay tension would vary much by which tack you are on. If it does, the backstays are probably not tight enough.

But you are right that getting them about equal is a good idea. The best way to do that is a Loos Gauge: https://loosnaples.com/products/tension-gauges/

This gauge will also tell you what percentage of break load your are tensioning everything and gives recommendations for the max.

The other option is two hydraulic backstay adjusters plumbed to the same pump so the pressure and therefore tension always equalizes automatically.

An alternate solution to consider perhaps…

We have a masthead rig on our 14.5m sloop and to go offshore in 2016 we changed from the as designed 135% genoa to a 103% jib. To make this work we need control over our backstay to tension the forestay & jib luff, for upwind pointing.

Having moderately swept-back spreaders, our solution was to change to a single upper wire backstay terminating at a heavy duty wire turning block and then a single part lower backstay terminated to port on the original chainplate and tensioned at the starboard quarter chainplate using a Harken backstay tensioner – see attached photo.

If your spreaders are in-line, you may need to keep your original twin backstays – not sure? We carry a large rigging bottle-screw as a spare in case our tensioner fails on passage, but to-date it has worked reliably.

https://www.harken.co.nz/en/shop/integral-backstay-adjuster/12-single-acting-integral-backstay-cylinder-40-mm-bore/

That sounds like a solution. Several cautions though. The block will be taking twice the load on the back stay and so needs to be massive and it’s also important that the sheave in said block be of large enough diameter so turning the wire does not result in excessive strength loss.

And of course the wire that goes from the chain plate to the back stay adjuster should be flexible (7×19) not ordinary rigging wire (1×19). And said wire will probably need to be at least one size larger both because of the strength reduction from the turn and because flex wire is, if memory serves, generally not as strong as rigging wire, size for size.

And finally the back stay adjuster will have a 2:1 advantage with this set up, so a user will need to very careful not to pump it up too much.

Bottom line some careful calculation needs to be done when implementing this idea.

I would presume that using a Dyneema type of rope would be the best solution there. However, in my specific case, one of the backstays functions as a MF/SSB antenna, so I’m a bit limited on options.

In total, I think I will leave the two backstays (I also like the redundancy they offer), and rather just try to make a more focused effort next time I retune my rig. For now, I don’t have adjusters, but during winter, we generally have quite heavy winds, and I just add a few turns on the turnbuckles for the backstay during fall. Not sure how much it adds, but I’m sure it can’t do much harm, especially as the rig is very much set-up in a non-scientific way in the first place.

Thanks for your inputs John! I will look into a tension gauge. However, intuitively, the hydraulic option that equalise doesn’t seem like such a great idea, as it will in essence create a “floating” (or “self-tacking”) backstay, and increase the load on the windward shroud. I have no clue if this matters though! Anyway, it’s kind of beyond the budget and complications-tolerance for me at the moment.

I have wondered about a tackle between the two backstays as a tension device, but I’m unsure how the Dyneema tackle would affect the SSB antenna.

Dyneema might not be a great choice as it tends to creep under load so your tune would be constantly slackening off. You could monitor the gauge and keep pumping it up, but it will be a PITA.

That’s not a problem with twin rams. The McCurdy and Rhodes has them and I sailed her well over 100,000 miles set up that way. It’s also a very common setup.

Hi Arne and John,

Interestingly Dyneema was our first choice and it worked brilliantly in almost every way. The turning block was smaller (but still high load) and creep wasn’t an issue we noticed, since we kept a reasonable load on the backstay at anchor or in the marina and have a load gauge on the Harken tensioner to recreate settings.

The only issue was at around 15 knots AWS we experienced a strange and loud harmonic in the Dyneema stay(s) which sounded for all money like a slow revving marine diesel like those used by older style trawlers.

After several phantom boat-on-boat incidents involving me rushing up on deck from tending the kettle or such like, we asked the rigger to change back to wire. No more harmonics, but more weight aloft.

John, you are absolutely right. We have a large diameter sheave on the block and wire to match.

Hi, John. I have a feeling Spartite has gone the way of the Dodo. Spartite.com is no longer working and the company who made it (Cass Polymers) seems to have been acquired which, in turn, that company was acquired (I gave up following the acquisition bread crumbs after awhile). I was trying to find it in Europe but only found it in the UK and Ireland (it seems no one ships outside the UK or Ireland because it is a chemical). I assume those companies (including Harken) have some residual stocks. I am hoping I am wrong but I came to a dead end. Oh, and it seems like it isn’t available even from West Marine anymore (although they don’t say explicitly that it isn’t available, the product page says “not available for shipping” and “not available for store pickup”, which I interpret as not available at all).

Hi Michael,

Wow, that would be a big problem, particularly since most carbon mast builders require Spartite and will void the warranty if we use wedges.

I did a quick google search and it’s still available here in Canada and at several places in the USA, but that could be old stock.

Anyway, I would hope and expect that if Spartite is permanently no longer available, a new product of the same type will come to be fairly quickly because of pressure from the big Carbon spar builders who serve deep pocket clients.

Anyway, that does not help you. You mentioned Harken. Have you tried their Dutch office as a source? I would suggest giving them a call. I have always found them very helpful and I’m guessing they will know what is going on with the product, even if they can’t sell you any. Also check with your local North loft since they are part of a conglomerate that owns Offshore Spars. I have a buddy who works at North, and will check with him.

Hi, John. Thanks for the reference to Harken Netherlands who referred me to a distributor of Spartite in the Netherlands (More Marine) who told me where to buy it in Belgium. I asked More Marine about availability and they told me that Spartite was taken over by Sika Marine quite some time ago and they do still seem to be making it. You can find a reference to it close to the bottom of this Sika brochure . So, it seems it is still being made despite there being no website and doing a search on the Sika website for Spartite produces no results (strange way to treat a popular product).

Correction, you can find it by searching the US Sika website just not the European ones.

Thanks for the fill on that. I went much the same route through my friend at North Sails. I have written to Sika, about Spartite, but have not had an answer yet. And I agree, not great, but I fear rather typical of what happens when companies get taken over. Hopefully they will sort things out soon.

AROUND THE SAILING WORLD
BOAT OF THE YEAR
Email Newsletters
America’s Cup
St. Petersburg
Caribbean Championship
Boating Safety
Ultimate Boat Giveaway

Sporty and Simple is the ClubSwan 28

By James Boyd
August 20, 2024

With its long history producing good-looking fast cruisers, in recent years, Nautor Swan has consolidated its performance yachts into its ClubSwan range, spanning the giant 125-foot Skorpios and the 80-footer My Son g to their fleets of ClubSwan 36s and 50s. All designs by Juan Kouyoumdjian, the latter saw 11 and 15 compete in their respective five-event annual championships (Nations Cup) in 2023 and are set to be joined by the ClubSwan 43 this year. But Nautor Swan has another new development: While its smallest boats have been the ClubSwan 36 (plus the original Swan 36 back in 1967), its latest launch is its smallest ever, the ClubSwan 28.

This new model is not surprising given that Swan is sailing’s most prolific premium brand, with more large performance sailing yachts in existence than any other manufacturer. Its range firmly extends into the superyacht stratosphere, so why not lure new owners into the fold, earlier, with a modest offering? Federico Michetti, head of sports activities and product manager at Nautor Swan, explains, “The concept of the 28 is to have an entry-level Swan that allows owners to enjoy the journey with Nautor and our events.” He expects that the 28 will entice younger sailors, even those new to sailing, into the ClubSwan realm.

Among race boats today, 28 to 30 feet is the cusp between sportboat and yacht, and the ClubSwan 28 is more the former, given its light weight (displacing sub-1,200 kg versus 1,600 kg and 1,800 for the more yachtlike Farr 280 and Cape 31, respectively); outboard engine rather than inboard; and low freeboard and minimal interior, accessed via the foredeck hatch. The ClubSwan 28 is neither an excessively high-end carbon race boat nor a high-volume J/70, but rather somewhere between. “Our aim for it is to race well in 6 knots or 20. It is a powerful boat but not extreme,” Michetti says.

Kouyoumdjian adds: “We incorporated everything that modern boats have to perform very well but didn’t go extreme on any of them.”

Fundamental to the boat’s ethos is simplicity, and for it to be fun to sail, but as Michetti puts it, “at the same time being safe, a boat that can fit the needs of everyone from beginner to expert.”

Aside from its performance, the best demonstration of this is that while most sportboat crews must hike and hike hard (it being so vital to stability on boats of this size), the 28 is a “legs-in” boat.

“We would like to avoid a hiking contest. It is much more social too; sailors can enjoy what is happening around them,” Michetti says. Everything is optimized for this—the sheerline and cockpit arrangement to make maximum use of the weight of the inward-facing crew, while keel draft and ballast make up righting moment lost due to no hiking and crew not moving fore and aft.

Compared with the ClubSwan 36’s advanced hull shape and fixed-keel/C-foil combination, the 28 is far more conservative. The hull has a low wetted surface area and rocker aft to minimize bow burying. Its modest 8-foot beam means it can be towed legally throughout Europe without having to be inclined. It also allows the boat and trailer combined to fit into a 40HQ container for shipping farther afield.

The hull shape is quite complex, with flared topsides at the stern, above a substantial chine. Going forward, the topsides turn vertical and then evolve into a deck chamfer forward of the mast. The bow has a slight reverse sheer and a retractable sprit.

The rig breaks new ground, but again, simplicity is the focus. Developed between Kouyoumdjian, Southern Spars’ Steve Wilson and mast-builder Axxon Composites, it is skifflike, with no backstay or runners, and with swept-back spreaders and a GNAV (inverted vang) to keep the cockpit clear. “Imagine a 49er rig that is set up by the headstay,” Kouyoumdjian says. “The prebend and the tension you have in that kind of rig usually comes from presetting the headstay and then you deal with it with the vang and cunningham. But we wanted something variable that could simulate what you could otherwise do with the runners.”

The solution is to have a permanently attached mast ram that can be operated while racing via a pump in the pit area. “It brings a lot of things together—not only the tension on the headstay, but also the tension on the rig,” Kouyoumdjian adds. “And when you tension the rig, you bend the mast.”

Therefore, powering up the rig comes with just two or three pumps and an inch of movement of the ram. “Everything on the rig is simple and has been done before many times successfully,” Kouyoumdjian says. “We added the mast up-and-down function. I imagine crews using it on medium-light days: When you get into a luff and you’d ease the runner, instead you’d drop the mast, or anticipating a puff, you’d pump it up. As soon as the wind gets to 10 to 12 knots, then you’d be maxed up, like you would be at maximum runner on a typical boat.”

The ClubSwan 28 will be a strict one-design class. Like the ClubSwan 36, it is being built in Cartagena, Spain, by Sinergia Racing Group. Tooling for the 28 is CNC milled to fine tolerances, and like most other boats in this size, it is a glass boat, built with vinylester resin, although naturally its mast, bowsprit and rudder are full carbon. The keel fin is stainless steel.

What appears to be a 1990s retro feature is the 28’s L-configuration keel, as featured on many vintage 1990 one-designs and early VO60s. Aside from positioning bulb weight aft, this lengthens the keel’s leading edge by 15 to 20 percent, increasing its efficiency and improving, for example, lift to windward. Kouyoumdjian is enthusiastic about this and says that he would readily recommend L-keels on other race boats, but warns that the shape of the bulb’s front must be correct. To enable easy trailering, the keel can be raised, and the rudder assembly lifts out within its own box. A full derig, from water to motorway, is expected to take around three hours.

Production for the ClubSwan 28 will be modest, initially at least, with the yard in Cartagena expected to roll out two per month, with the ready-to-sail price forecast to be around 200,000 euros. The aim is to have international fleets, with boats built by local yards. After Europe, Michetti says, its focus will be the United States, although as yet there is no time frame for this. At the time of this writing, six 28s had been sold, with the first boat due for launch in late May, with all six expected to compete at the Rolex Swan Cup in Porto Cervo in September.

The advantage of the 28 is that the owner is buying into the ClubSwan world, with its established circuit, Michetti says. “If you are building a new class, people need to trust you. You need to create momentum, you need to have sponsors and find locations and organize regattas,” which the ClubSwan management already has, with its comprehensive circuit, mixing established regattas and ClubSwan’s own in the Med, UK, Baltic and US. Aside from enticing new sailors and teams into the ClubSwan family, Michetti also imagines that some teams with larger race boats might acquire a 28 for crew training.

There is currently no class crew-weight limit, which risks enticing larger muscle-bound types on board, but Michetti explains: “We want to avoid this crazy ‘saunas before the regatta’ thing” (in other classes, crews typically duck just below maximum weight at weigh-in). ClubSwan 28 crews will comprise four or five with a World Sailing Group 1 (amateur) owner-driver and probably one mandatory female or youth crewmember.

For the 28 this year, there are a number of events, including a kick-off event from Nautor Swan’s base in Scarlino, Italy, in July, plus September’s Rolex Swan Cup and the Nations League 2024-ClubSwan 28 Invitational Sardinia Challenge, taking place in Villasimius, Sardinia, in early November. Given its trailerability, the likelihood is that the 28 will also race inland, for example, on Italy’s famous Lake Garda. Naturally, as numbers grow, there will also be the opportunity for the ClubSwan 28 to get its own start in the world’s top multiclass regattas.

More: ClubSwan 28 , One Design , Print Summer 2024 , Sailboats
More Sailboats

Nautor Swan Has A New Pocket Rocket

Pogo Launches its Latest Coastal Rocket

A Deeper Dive Into the Storm 18

2024 Boat of the Year Best Recreational Racer: Z24

Alinghi Red Bull Racing Suffers Second Mast Failure

two AC75 America's Cup yachts crossing on the waters off Barcelona, Spain

Hot Summer Scrimmages In Barcelona

The Caribbean’s Hot One-Design Fleet

Cole Brauer’s Voyage of Influence

Digital Edition
Customer Service
Privacy Policy
Terms of Use
Cruising World
Sailing World
Salt Water Sportsman
Sport Fishing
Wakeboarding

Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
Media New media New comments
Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Use backstay to control forestay tension with furling mast?

Thread starter danstanford
Start date Oct 10, 2017
Featured Contributors
Sail Trim with Don Guillette

danstanford

My boat has a furling main and a non-adjustable back stay so I assume the mast is not intended to bend. Correct? Assuming this is true, and that I want to use forestay tension as a sail trim tool, should I be looking at a way to put a tensioner on the split backstays? There is currently no clutch to bring the jib halyard back to the cockpit winch so I don't have many tools to change the rather round shape of my jib. Dan

Davidasailor26

You're correct that with the furling main you don't want any significant pre-bend. But it should still be alright to add backstay tension while you're sailing, provided you let it back off before furling. It's during the furling / unfurling when you don't want too much bend.

DayDreamer41

With swept back spreaders would not increasing the tension on the back stay change the tension (reduce) on the shrouds?

DayDreamer41 said: With swept back spreaders would not increasing the tension on the back stay change the tension (reduce) on the shrouds? Click to expand

Jackdaw said: Yes it does, slightly. That gets factored in during setup. Click to expand

DayDreamer41 said: I am sure this would restrict adjustment while underway, not impossible but certainly impractical. Click to expand

Really I would have thought it would be more dramatic a change, just curious as don't even have a back stay to adjust, but the Sapphire is not a thorough bred either.

Jackdaw said: Your boat is fractional with swept shrouds. While its a static setting while sailing, rig tension will greatly effect your forestay sag. We adjust ours every time we go out based on expected conditions. We use a fixed number of 1/2 turns from a baseline to simplify. View attachment 141730 Click to expand

I thought backstay tension on a fractional rig was for mast bending... i.e. maisail trim. Wouldn't runner adjustment be more effective for dealing with forestay sag? Anyway, I consider an adjustable backstay essential equipment on most sailboats, no matter how you use it. Just because your boat didn't come with an adjustable backstay, don't assume it wouldn't be useful and worth the cost of installation. It was probably an option... the original owner decided not to check the box and pay the extra charge.

danstanford said: Fantastic information Jackdaw, can you tell me what process you used to arrive at the baseline? Experimentation aimed at target speed acquisition? Do you have any idea what the best solution would be for adjusting backstay tension when one doesn't exist to start with? Dan Click to expand

Scott T-Bird

Joe said: Anyway, I consider an adjustable backstay essential equipment on most sailboats, no matter how you use it. Just because your boat didn't come with an adjustable backstay, don't assume it wouldn't be useful and worth the cost of installation. It was probably an option... the original owner decided not to check the box and pay the extra charge. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: I can see the value of a chart but I can't decipher what this chart means. I assume the bottom numbers are in rig tension (% of breaking strength). I don't follow what "V" & "D" are. I don't follow "half turns". I adjust backstay simply by feel right now. It would be good to have a system. Mine is masthead with split backstay. I simply pull line in on the blocks to pull the adjuster down the split shrouds and draw the shrouds together. I don't really have a baseline except to draw it down far enough to create 'moderate' tension when sailing in 'moderate' conditions. It would probably be a benefit to measure the loos gauge tension at various settings so I know where the baseline should be and how to adjust more precisely to conditions. I suppose I could then mark the shrouds for the correct positions of the adjuster. I do notice that when sailing upwind in stronger conditions (20 knots of so) the leeward shrouds are slightly more slack than normal as I increase forestay tension with the adjuster. My spreaders are slightly swept back. Uppers and lowers are fixed to the deck at the same location (just one set of lowers). Click to expand

Thanks for the information Everybody, I have two follow up questions, one of which was part of the original query. Can I, and should I, attempt to create this bend with a furling mast? I have one affirmative in the responses above, anybody else with experience? Assuming the answer above is yes, what is the best way to add adjustment? I do run a bimini with the split backstay cables running through it.... Thanks in advance, Dan

danstanford said: Thanks for the information Everybody, I have two follow up questions, one of which was part of the original query. Can I, and should I, attempt to create this bend with a furling mast? I have one affirmative in the responses above, anybody else with experience? Assuming the answer above is yes, what is the best way to add adjustment? I do run a bimini with the split backstay cables running through it.... Thanks in advance, Dan Click to expand

Sailboat specs Beneteau 323 indicate that you have a masthead rig. Is that correct? No to bend, yes to add adjustment for forestay tension. Here is how I did mine ... and how it looks in action. I used a backing plate below the deck. The new configuration pinches the bimini when in operation. I finally just cut the fabric to show where the new opening needs to be and am having a new bimini made.

Attachments

Scott T-Bird said: Sailboat specs Beneteau 323 indicate that you have a masthead rig. Is that correct? Click to expand

Jackdaw said: Its fractional. 15/16th, so barely. Click to expand

Rick D said: So, that has always puzzled me. What is the point of a 15/16th rig? Click to expand

This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

BOAT OF THE YEAR
Newsletters
Sailboat Reviews
Boating Safety
Sails and Rigging
Maintenance
Sailing Totem
Sailor & Galley
Living Aboard
Destinations
Gear & Electronics
Charter Resources
Ultimate Boat Giveaway

Sailing Avocet : A New Adventure Begins

By Marissa Neely
August 20, 2024

EDITOR’S NOTE: Every boat has a story. So does every boat owner. And few tell those stories better than Marissa and Chris, the crew of Avocet, a 1979 41-foot Cheoy Lee. They met the boat in February 2018, just three months before college graduation, got married in June 2018, and have been liveaboards ever since. Avocet’s journey has only just begun, and as Cruising World’s newest ambassadors, the Avocet crew share their adventures with our community, from the technical aspects of cruising a classic sailboat to the breathtaking destinations they visit to the challenges (and triumphs!) that come with the liveaboard life.

Ahoy, from Avocet

My name is Marissa, and I am half of the crew on Avocet , a 1979 41-foot Cheoy Lee that my partner, Chris, and I have been living aboard since 2018.

Chris grew up in a sailing family, spending time on small lake boats and sailing near the San Francisco Bay area aboard his family’s Mason 43. His older brother purchased a Hans Christian 33, Prism, to cruise the world, paving the way for us to follow in his wake half a decade later.

Chris got me involved in the sport early in our relationship. We were barely 15 when he persuaded me to crew for him in the annual High Sierra Regatta, where I caught the sailing bug. After high school, Chris asked me to marry him in Costa Rica while we were aboard his brother’s boat. Of course, I said yes to a life of adventure, which led us to where we are now.

Our current story starts with how we found our beloved Avocet . We met the boat in February 2018, just three months before college graduation. We signed the papers in March, and Chris spent nearly every weekend driving eight hours to prepare Avocet for our move-in day.

Then, in May, we began our adult lives—him with his bachelor’s degree in social sciences, and me with bachelors’ in ski business, resort management and global business management. We got married on June 2, 2018, just two days before Chris carried me from the dock to Avocet ’s cockpit and we unpacked on board.

The Discovery

Back when Chris and I were looking for boats in 2018, Avocet was not even on our radar. We were looking for something simpler, like a Catalina 36. At the time, we had no intentions of cruising, and we were looking for a crash pad while Chris finished his studies at film school in San Francisco Bay.

We convinced ourselves that the Catalina 36 was everything we wanted, until we stepped aboard one in Southern California and realized it wouldn’t suit our lifestyle needs. We had no Plan B, but we did have Chris’ brother Jon with us. He found Avocet .

“We cruised with a boat like this in Mexico,” Jon said as he boarded the boat. After a few moments on board, Chris felt at home, comparing the warm teak walls to his family’s Mason 43. I was not as easily charmed—I thought the interior was atrocious—but Chris begged me to give it a minute.

After we drove away, Chris couldn’t stop thinking about the boat. His offer to the seller was laughable at best, probably around $25,000, which is what we had saved. The seller rejected that offer, so Chris wrote a letter to the seller, explaining who we were and why we would be honored to buy it. We settled around $30,000, which was $10,000 less than the original listed price. We still had to get a bank loan, but Avocet was ours.

The Confusion

People recognize that Avocet is a Cheoy Lee but often fail to identify the model. On the outside, the boat looks strikingly similar to the Offshore 41 and Pedrick 41, but has key differences. Cheoy Lee had seen a similar design from naval architect Ray Richards, the designer of the Offshore, and subsequently designed its own Cheoy Lee 41. Richards’ new-at-the-time element was a 6-foot-deep cruising fin, in which the forefoot is a cutaway and the rudder is attached to a skeg. Richards described the boat as “stiff as a church,” which we have found to be very true.

Unlike Avocet , the Offshore 41s don’t share the same tumblehome, leaving them much narrower with a different sheer. Inside, Avocet ’s saloon is oval-shaped, unlike the semi-circle cut of the Offshore. Our boat’s head is abaft the saloon on the starboard side, forward of the stateroom, with a closet separating them. In the Offshore, there is no closet.

Avocet is also different from the Offshore below the waterline, thanks to Avocet ’s modified fin keel and separated skeg-hung rudder. Our boat’s prop shaft comes right out of the keel, making our shaft 4½ feet long. Another notable difference is that the Offshore has a slightly taller cabin top.

Unfortunately, there is not much existing literature on Cheoy Lee 41s—especially sloops—since they seemed to have been built to order and highly customized by whoever commissioned them. We asked Cheoy Lee for help in our hunt to find details about Avocet , but no records were in their database.

Richards did kindly answer my emails and provided some insight, supporting our own findings: “I am not particularly familiar with it, but your email jogged my memory that indeed, Cheoy Lee had Pedrick design a 41, ‘borrowing’ from mine but with the, by then, contemporary style of underbody and flatter sheer. I also recall that Pedrick was or had been in the Sparkman & Stephens office, a factor that Cheoy Lee probably and understandably would have figured as good for sales. There were more than a few misquotes and errors. For example, I turned out four, not 10 designs for Cheoy Lee. The first was a 39, a larger and heavier version of an aluminum one-tonner that had received some good press, but it was totally away from the type and style of CL’s market niche. It was flush-decked and had a plumb transom from which a dirty big outboard rudder was hung. Tad Woodhull, Lyon Yachts, Essex, Connecticut, had one and did well racing it in Long Island Sound. It was he who stimulated Cheoy Lee toward replacing Phil Rhodes’ very handsome Reliant , which came to be sold as their Offshore 40. Thus came my 41, which was originally designated Offshore 40. Maybe that, in CL’s mind, was much like replacing a Richards with a Pedrick. The 32 came next. It was followed by the 38, very similar in features to the 41.”

There only seem to be eight CL41s in existence, reflected on the Cheoy Lee Association owners page, and Avocet appears to be one of the only sloops.

The Construction

Like most boats of this vintage, Avocet has a solid fiberglass hull. According to the company literature, the thickness in these boats ranges from about seven-sixteenths of an inch at the sheer to 1 inch, but we have found Avocet to be five-eighths of an inch at the sheer and as much as 2 inches at the keel.

This level of fiberglass production was uncommon at the time and gave Cheoy Lee a good reputation for building robust boats. Unlike many other early fiberglass classics, the Cheoy Lee 41s had fiberglass decks, most with a teak overlay. The previous owner removed Avocet ’s teak deck, most likely in Mexico in 2004. Beneath the fiberglass deck is mahogany planking that serves as core. We inspected it. Dry as a bone.

Cheoy Lee poured its own cast iron ballasts, but our keel is lead, which is denser, softer and not subject to corrosion. Cheoy Lee Shipyards said it was unlikely that the boat originally had a lead keel, but it’s possible that Avocet ’s original owner commissioned it with lead ballast, for which we are thankful.

On the other hand, Avocet was built with poor-quality stainless steel. The chainplates crumbled in our hands. Fasteners were a problem, too. Most owners, like us, have replaced the shoddy metal, sometimes paving the way for other problems, such as leaks. We had this issue when the fasteners in our toe rail corroded, leaving voids that allowed water intrusion into our interior. Instead of replacing the toe rail, we removed it and added a bulwark. This let us glass over the deck-to-hull joint, reinforcing the structural integrity of our boat. It is, so far, the crowning upgrade on our extensive project list.

Avocet ’s previous owner also replaced the Sitka spruce spar in 2004 with our aluminum mast, which we refitted in 2021. Avocet is deck-stepped with a single spreader and a relatively short boom, meaning the boat is heavily headsail-driven.

I know what you are thinking: A cruising boat with a deck-stepped mast? How could this be? Well, as with many things in sailing, there is a deck-stepped versus keel-stepped debate.

Deck-stepped boats have masts that are more flexible, making the mast easier to adjust for optimum performance by making small adjustments to the standing rigging. Going upwind, the backstay, runners and check stays can have tension added to tighten the stays and pull the mast aft. This will both rake the mast aft, giving it weather helm, and tension the headstay for added pointing ability.

If all the stays fail on the mast, it will fall over, since it stands on the deck totally reliant on the rigging—one of the many reasons we replaced our chainplates and all the rigging, and beefed up our mast step in 2021.

Avocet ’s geared steering quadrant is also unusual. Unlike with cable or worm steering, the input from the helm goes directly to a pinion gear, which turns a larger planetary gear, then a drive shaft mounted vertically inside the binnacle. This connects directly to the rudder shaft through two more gears. There is little that can go wrong with this system. All the gears are locked together with large components, eliminating the risk of cable failure.

With so much mechanical advantage, Avocet has a different feel than other boats. Because of the geared steering, we can never feel weather helm, which takes some getting used to if you are a seasoned sailor. We also have an easy time hand-steering, and our autopilot has more control. The lock-to-lock at the wheel takes four complete revolutions of the helm. In the time we have owned Avocet , we have really grown to like this system.

Avocet also has an inboard Perkins 4-108 diesel engine that is midship between the galley and head. With the weight concentrated on centerline, we have less pitching. The weight is also low, with the Perkins below the cabin sole, about 2 feet below the waterline. It’s not the easiest location for maintenance, but it’s a valuable addition to our lead ballast, making it the best possible location for sailing performance.

And, our cabin sole is removable for access the engine. We also have a 6-foot-deep bilge with pumps and alarms to address any incoming water and eliminate flooding.

If our engine were above the cabin sole and beneath the companionway (like many are), it would be at equal risk of water damage due to a green wave—a good reason why we relocated our batteries to a watertight spot.

The Performance

Although Avocet isn’t truly an International Offshore Rule vessel, it shares a lot of traits, having been built at the height of IOR times in the late ’70s. The hull has bow and stern overhangs, the boat has a wide beam, and it is heavily headsail-driven. It sails incredibly well for its heavy weight, too. With a modified fin keel and a large rudder far aft on the stern, Avocet always feels well-footed underway. The keel digs deep into the sea while the rudder has significant control on any given point of sail.

At 26,000 pounds, Avocet is not a light boat, but it carries the weight in all the right places. Our favorite attribute is the boat’s low-slung nature. The freeboard is relatively low off the water, and much of the weight is carried below the waterline. This all contributes to Avocet ’s best sailing characteristic, which is stiffness.

In a generous breeze of 15 to 25 knots, we can carry all our canvas and keep a heel no more than 15 to 20 degrees, making life aboard blissfully comfortable. Avocet ’s unassuming image is what makes it such a good boat a comfortable racer in disguise. That’s how we squeezed out a second place showing in this year’s Banderas Bay Regatta, with the heaviest handicap in the entire race.

Avocet ‘s journey has only just begun, and we’re thrilled to share our adventures with the Cruising World community. As Cruising World ‘s newest ambassadors, you’ll get a front-row seat to our experiences, from the technical aspects of cruising a unique boat like Avocet to the breathtaking destinations we encounter and the challenges (and triumphs!) that come with full-time liveaboard life.

In the coming months, we’ll be chronicling our ongoing adventures, giving you a variety of specially curated content from our cruising life, from boat projects and maintenance to the realities of full-time liveaboard life, managing limited space and staying connected with loved ones back home.We believe Avocet ‘s story resonates with many sailors. It’s a testament to the spirit of adventure, the joy of living a life less ordinary and the unique bond that forms between a crew and its boat. We’re excited to share this journey with you, so stay tuned for more updates from Avocet ! In the meantime, learn more about what we’re up to now at svavocet.com .

More: Lifestyle , Living Aboard , people , Sailing Avocet
More People

Off Watch: School Daze

For Sale: 2003 Saga 48

Celebrating 40 Years of the ARC

Passage Report: Sailing Totem Finds Aloha

For Sale: Little Harbor 63 Ketch

Cruising Tahiti: A Party in Paradise

Sailboat Review: Fountaine Pajot Aura 51

Introducing Bitter End’s Beach Bungalows

Digital Edition
Customer Service
Privacy Policy
Terms of Use
Email Newsletters
Cruising World
Sailing World
Salt Water Sportsman
Sport Fishing
Wakeboarding

IMAGES

These Backstay Tensioners are a seriously good idea...
Gear: Selden’s HTI Hydraulic Backstay Tensioner
Ullman Sails Series: Part III The Backstay
How to set up your rig: tension your shrouds on masthead or fractional
Backstay Tensioner
The Adjustable Backstay

COMMENTS

Backstay Tension and its Effects on Mainsail Shape
The more bendable the mast, the easier it is to add backstay and flatten (de-power) the sail. On many small boats which don't have a backstay, pulling on the mainsheet has the same effect. Tensioning the mainsheet tensions the mainsail leech. The leech acts like a backstay to induce compression and mast bend. The boom vang can also help.
Getting the Most From Your Backstay
Thus, when the puffs hit, I can tension the backstay, keep the boat under control, and keep it at a constant heel. For most boats, it's maybe a 4-knot wind range that the backstay will cover.
Choosing a Backstay Adjuster
Whether you're cruising or racing, an adjustable backstay is a helpful device for changing sail shape and controlling forestay tension for improved upwind and downwind performance. By dialing in the right backstay tension you can increase boatspeed. Regardless of whether you have a masthead or fractional rig, using an adjustable backstay is essential to good sail shape.
When to adjust the backstay and what it achieves
It's usual to ease backstay downwind and put on backstay tension when going upwind. If one over tensions the backstay, it can have a significant effect on the boat, depowering the mainsail. This may well negate the need for a reef. Over-tensioning an adjustable backstay and/or easing or dumping the vang will significantly depower the boat.
Backstay Tensioner
Backstay Tensioner. Easy Upgrades: #1 of a seriesEvery fractionally rigged boat will have (or should have) a means of adjusting backstay tension. Its main purpose is to flatten and depower the mainsail in stronger winds, putting off the time at which a reef will be required. Because very few masthead-rigged boats are provided with backstay ...
Upgrade Your Rig With a DIY Adjustable Backstay
Another benefit of an adjustable backstay is that after a day of sailing with a tight backstay in a strong breeze, you can slacken the backstay to let the rig relax and release tension on the hull while your sailboat is moored. Direct vs. indirect backstays. Adjustable backstay designs fall into two types: direct and indirect.
Dynamics of Headsail Trim
There are three primary ways to affect headstay sag—backstay, rig tension and mainsheet tension. The backstay is the most effective and often easiest to adjust of the three.
Rig tuning: a practical guide for sailors
If you don't use a backstay adjuster, set the backstay to a similar tension to that of the cap shrouds, then go forward and check the forestay. The tension should be similar, and will help with your upwind performance. Go sailing. The above will give you a good initial set-up, but there's no substitute for seeing how it behaves under sail.
How to set up running backstays on your sailboat
Updated: March 28, 2013. backstay setup. The lazy runner can be walked forward and attached to the lower aft shrouds via a bronze snap swivel, then tensioned via the tackle. I separate the two metals via a strong rope strop tied to the stay, using a prusik knot to prevent it from creeping up when tensioned. Tim Barker.
How Does Backstay Tension Affect Mainsail Trim?
The more bendable the mast, the easier it is to add backstay tension and flatten (de-power) the sail. On many small boats which don't have a backstay, pulling on the mainsheet has the same effect. Tensioning the mainsheet tensions the mainsail leech. The leech acts like a backstay to induce compression and mast bend. The boom vang can also help.
How-to: Mainsail Trim 101
The amount of draft is typically expressed as a percentage and is determined by dividing the fullness of the sail at the point of maximum draft by the chord length (the length of the line you drew from the luff to the leech) and then multiplying by 100. Typical draft, or depth, aboard a cruising boat will be around 15 percent.
When do I use my backstay?
On boats with rigs that bend, the backstay helps depower the mainsail. When you add backstay tension on this type of rig you are essentially compressing a straw. The mast bends forward at the middle pulling the luff away from the leech thereby flattening the sail. It is a hugely powerful tool which allows you take your mainsail from full and ...
Sailing: Backstay adjustment
Sailing Instructional Video. Discuss this video and anything sailing on my forum www.anything-sailing.com . A small video for beginners to explain how the b...
'Backstay Adjustment' / Sailing Lessons
'Backstay Adjustment' / Sailing Lessons#backstayadjustment #sailingschool #sailinglessonsSailing Instructional Video. Discuss this video and anything sailin...
back stay tension
Backstay tension ..... is dependent on how you sail On most marconi rigs the 'initial' backstay tension is probably in the range of 12-15%. The following discussion is rigorous/advanced so I apologize if this seems beyond a 'newbie' discussion: Headsail 'shape' is dependent on backstay tension and if you sail your boat 'hard' you will need increased backstay tension to compensate.
How to Tune a Sailboat Mast
Thanks for the question. With the backstay tensioner completely off, you should be able to adjust the static/ base tension of the backstay with a turnbuckle (s). Loosen the Baby Stay so that it is completely loose, sloppy, to take it out of the equation. Then mark furling line spool direction and remove the line.
Backstay tension
Many, many boats have adjustable backstay tensioners important to sail trim applications. On fractional rigs, where the forestay mast attachment is below full height, backstay tension is used to control mast bend, which is an important mainsail trim adjustment. For masthead rigs like Sirius 21, where the forestay attaches at the mast's full ...
The Integral Backstay Adjuster
The Integral Backstay Adjuster. By The Rigging Company February 23, 2016. Integral backstay adjusters can play a big role in how a boat sails. Being able to adjust the backstay tension from the pump of a handle can be useful on cruisers just as much as racers. We all need to make general changes to the boats trim depending on wind and wave ...
Forestay/Backstay Tension
Aug 16, 2012. #3. Loose is good. Your forestay should be loose so that the leading edge of the head sail bowes forward and to leeward as you say yours does. This twist in the front edge of the sail allows the whole back edge of the sail to point towards the stern for power. If the forestay is tighten and takes some of this bow out of the ...
Harken Boasts Best Overall Quality Among Backstay Adjusters
Leaving a boat unnecessarily burdened with extreme tension in the standing rigging is like leaving the Kentucky Derby winner saddled for a week. The quickest way to pump up or release the pressure in the triangles made by the backstay, the mast, the forestay and the boat is with a hydraulic pump. Theyre costly.
Fractional Rig: Everything You Need to Know
Its angle and tension can be adjusted to optimize sail trim and overall rig balance. 3. Backstay: Unlike a conventional rig where the backstay connects at the masthead, in fractional rigs, it attaches lower down - generally above or just below the intersection point with the forestay. Adjusting its tension further influences mast bend and ...
Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
Tighten Forestay and Backstay to Sailing Tune. Finally, and after the Spartite has set up, we need to tighten the forestay and backstay to sailing tension. Of course, we want to tighten each the same amount to avoid screwing up all our hard work setting the rake and bend. Actually, that's not quite true.
Sporty and Simple is the ClubSwan 28
The ClubSwan 28 one-design starts at 200,000 euro. With an adjustable hydraulic mast jack, rig-tension tweaks can be made on the fly. Nautor Communication
Use backstay to control forestay tension with furling mast?
As we discussed earlier above, adding backstay tension (to a true fractional boat) will ADD to the amount of forestay tension created by the rig rig tension, with a slight decrease in rig tension. danstanford. Aug 2, 2010 513 J-Boat J/88 Cobourg Oct 24, 2017 #15 Thanks for the information Everybody, I have two follow up questions, one of which ...
Sailing Avocet: A New Adventure Begins
Every boat has a story. Few tell those stories better than Cruising World's newest ambassadors, Marissa and Chris—the crew of Avocet, a 1979 41-foot Cheoy Lee. ... the backstay, runners and check stays can have tension added to tighten the stays and pull the mast aft. This will both rake the mast aft, giving it weather helm, and tension the ...