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Laser 2 Rigging Guide

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Posted on 02 May 2010 14:53

The Laser 2 is a two person dinghy, which comes in various different configurations, some with trapeze, some with spinnakers, some with both. There are a range of names for them, from Regatta, Fun, and Fun New Wave amongst others. With an ideal crew weight between 120-170kg, it's an ideal boat for mixed crews and younger sailors.

The Laser 2 was launched in Australia and North America in 1979, then Europe in 1980. It was designed by Frank Bethwaite, whos family are also responsible for other high performance boats such as the 29er, 49er and B14. It's still fairly popular with University racing in the UK, as it's open handicap popularity has dropped in recent years with the launch of the newer asymmetric ranges from Laser, Topper and RS. The Laser Vago is considered to be the replacement for the Laser 2.

Photo 1, Parts laid out

Photo 2, Trapeze parts

As far as rigging guides go, sit tight because this is going to be a big one! We've got the spinnaker trapeze version, and are going to rig it all up. We have 102 photos in all to show all the steps, so here we go.

Photo 3, Spinnaker parts

Photo 4, Sails, spars and foils

1. The Parts

- Hull - Mast + Shrouds and Forestay + Trapeze Wires - Boom - Main Sail + Battens, Jib Sail, Spinnaker Sail - Rudder + Tiller + Tiller Extension - Daggerboard - Outhaul - Downhaul - Kicking Strap (various arrangements available, ours uses 2x double pulleys) - Inhaul - Clew Tie Down + Hook - Painter Rope - Trapeze Bungee + Height Adjuster Ropes - Trapeze Handles + Cleats (these vary boat to boat) - Traveller / Hawse - Main Sheet - Jib Sheet - Spinnaker Sheets (one red and one green) - Spinnaker Halyard/Downhaul - Spinnaker bag - Pulley blocks (traveller x1 double, main sheet x2, spinnaker sheets x2, spinnaker halyard x3 etc)

Photo 5, The hull and cockpit layout

Photo 6, Trapeze handles

Photo 7, Shroud adjusters

That's a pretty long kit list we have this time! If you're buying a Laser 2 second hand (which chances are you will be as there are very few new ones), make sure you know what you're getting with the boat. It's always good to have a spares box at hand when rigging up for the first time, chances are something will be missing. If the list above looks quite daunting, then remember that some of it's already attached; there's a good chance all the trapeze wires, handles and adjustors will be hooked up ready to go. We're rigging up a spinnaker trapeze version here - it's quite possible some of the above won't apply to your boat, depending on the model.

Photo 8, Centreboard retaining clip

Photo 9, Spinnaker halyard

Photo 10, Spinnaker halyard cleat

There are also some Laser 2's that come with spinnaker chutes through the foredeck into the cockpit, and some quite rare examples with asymmetric spinnakers (and also a one off quite mad conversion that uses a 29er asymmetric spinnaker). We won't be demonstrating any of this as we don't have any available.

2. The Mast

We're going to start with the mast already up. The mast on a Laser 2 is in two halves - the top half is about 6 feet long, and slides into the lower half - but make sure the main sheet halyard goes down the same side of the mast as it comes up. Before you continue, make sure the end of the main sheet halyard you attach to the sail is pulled all the way down.

Photo 11, Spinnaker halyard

Photo 12, Spinnaker uphaul

Photo 13, Jib cleat

It's pretty easy to get the mast up - one person lifts it up and lowers it onto the mast step on the deck - make sure both the deck step and the bottom of the mast are clean. Hold the mast steady, while a second person attaches each shroud in turn, and then the forestay to the fitting on the front of the deck. It is possible to do this solo - the best way we've found is to attach one shroud and the forestay while the mast lies on the ground, and it should then stay up in place while you attach the other shroud and tighten everything up.

3. The Trapeze

Now the mast is up, let's start with the trapeze, as it's easiest to do without the sails in the way. This is a single trapeze on this boat, one on either side for the crew. If you have them they should already be attached to the mast, and shouldn't be taken off, as you will have to remove the diamond shroud to do this, and won't get it back on after! There is a piece of elastic bungee that goes from the bottom of each handle, around the front of the both, to keep the tension on the handles and pull them forward out of the way. To start, thread the elastic through the micro block on the front of the deck (Photo 14), and pull it through to get equal lengths on each side. You can get double micro blocks - you should use the bottom sheave.

Photo 14, Insert the trapeze elastic

Photo 15, Through the bullseyes

Photo 16, Into the cockpit

Next, hold the ends together, and thread them through the fairlead in front of the mast (Photo 15). They then split, one going to each side. There is a fairlead inside the cockpit on the front side that it should lead through (Photo 16), and then for now, tie a quick knot in it, to hold it here (Photo 17), and do the same for the other side.

Next, assemble the trapezes with their handles. You can get slightly varying handles, We have v-jammer adjustors on them. Tie the trapeze adjustor rope (should be about 60cm / 2 feet long), onto the bottom of the jammer with a bowline (Photo 18), then take it around the pulley block of the handle (Photo 19), back through the jammer and tie a knot in the rope to stop it coming out, as shown (Photo 20).

Photo 17, Tie it off for now

Photo 18, Rope adjuster on the trapeze handle

Photo 19, Through the handle

Now, take the end of the trapeze bungee, un-knot it, and secure it around the trapeze handle (Photo 21). We've used a slightly altered round turn and two half hitches, feeding the working end through one of the turns - this stops the elastic slipping through so easily (Photo 22).

Photo 20, Completed adjuster

Photo 21, Secure the trapeze elastic to the handle

Photo 22, Secure the trapeze elastic to the handle

Photo 23, Attach the jib to the front ring

Photo 24, Clip the jib on

The jib is next - make sure your jib halyard is free of any other lines (e.g. the spinnaker uphaul or halyard). Attach the front bottom edge (the tack) of the jib to the front loop of the boat using a shackle. We have to clip our jib onto the forestay along it's luff, but not all Laser 2 sails have these (in fact class legal ones don't).

Photo 25, Attach the jib to the halyard

Photo 26, Hoist the jib, and clip the jammer in

Photo 27, Neatly coil the halyard

Attach the end of the halyard onto the top of the jib with a suitable shackle (Photo 25), and hoist it. We've used a slightly different jib here, it's not Laser 2 class legal, and is ever so slightly smaller, hence the number of shackles on the top to make the wires fit. The Laser 2 has a crimp on the wire part of the halyard - which you can see in Photo 26 if you squint or without squinting in Photo 13 - this has to be fed through the metal fitting shown, and pulled towards the mast to hook it on - you may need to pull on the forestay to give you some extra slack to clip it in. The jib should then stay up - but we had to experiment with shackles to get the fit right. Coil up the halyard rope neatly (Photo 27) - this can be stowed on the deck or in the cockpit - we've got a nice neat solution of two halyard bags, as you can see in Photo 82 at the bottom of this rigging guide. In fact, these are just two see through pencil cases that we managed to attach to the front of the cockpit using shackles and the fairleads.

Photo 28, Jib clew

Photo 29, A bad way to attach the jib sheets

Photo 30, They get twisted easily this way

To finish the jib, attach the jib sheet to the jib clew (Photo 28). The method we've shown here first is a lazy method - fold the rope in half, pass the middle (bite) through the jib clew, then pass the two ends through the middle of the bite (Photo 29), and pull it tight (Photo 30). This is a quick way of doing it, but we've found that when sailing, the two jib sheets tangle up and wind around each other very quickly. They can be fairly easily untangled by sheeting in the jib tight, but the better way is to put a stop knot half way down the length of rope (Photo 31).

Photo 31, Better way - equalize the jib sheet

Photo 32, Stopper knot one side

Photo 33, Stopper knot the other side

Pull it through the jib clew until the knot is against the clew (Photo 32), then put another stopper knot in the other side of the clew, as shown in Photo 33. For some reason, jib sheets tend to tangle slightly less this way, we find. Finally, feed the ends of the jib sheets through the bullseyes (Photo 34), then into the cockpit (Photo 35). Inside or outside of the trapeze lines is the question - the answer is personal preference. The jib sheets need to come inside of the shrouds on the Laser 2, to allow you to sheet the jib in tightly enough.

Photo 34, Jib sheet through the jammer

Photo 35, and into the cockpit

5. Traveller

The traveller is quite easy - take the rope for the traveller, put a small bowline in one end of it, thread the working end through one of the bullseyes/fairleads on the back of the deck, thread it through the smaller block of the two joined blocks (ours are taped together), through the other bullseye/fairlead, the working end through the bowline (as shown in Photo 36), into the cockpit, and through the jammer cleat (Photo 37). Don't forget to put a stopper or figure eight knot in the rope to stop it coming back through (Photo 38).

Photo 36, Attach the hawse or traveller

Photo 37, Lead it into the cockpit

Photo 38, Jam the traveller line

To start the outhaul, secure one end of the line to the bullseye on the end of the boom (on the top), using a bowline (Photo 39). Take it through the smaller side of the stainless steel hook (Photo 40), then back through the bullseye (Photo 41). This line then leads along the top of the length of the boom, and through the jammer cleat on the top of the boom (Photo 42). Again, put a stopper knot in it, and the outhaul is done. If you're not rigging race legal, you could do a different outhaul arrangement, with blocks for a multi-purchase system like we use usually, as our club doesn't worry about race legal, but if you're up against other Laser 2's, you should use this class legal standard outhaul.

Photo 39, Start the outhaul with a bowline

Photo 40, Take it through an S-hook

Photo 41, Back through the first fairlead

7. Main Sail

Unfold the main sail (Photo 43), and get the battens ready. Insert each batten into it's correct batten pocket (Photo 44), and seal them in. On some sails this is just tucking the batten into a fold of the edge of the sail, on this sail we have velcro pocket ends, to stop the battens coming out as shown in Photo 45 (as they don't readily float, as we found out with our Merlin Rocket ones after a capsize!).

Photo 42, Along the boom into the jammer cleat

Photo 43, The main sail

Photo 44, Insert the battens

To raise the main sail, attach the halyard end to the top of the sail, using a suitable shackle (Photo 46) - at this point you may wish to add a masthead float or a few plastic bottles to stop you inverting (as Laser 2's have a reputation for inverting quickly). Slide the sail luff bolt rope into the mast slot (Photo 47), and as one person feeds the sail in (Photo 48), the other should pull on the halyard end that comes out of the bottom of the mast, to raise the sail. If it's difficult to pull up, check the following:

Photo 45, Ensure the pockets are sealed securely

Photo 46, Attach the halyard

Photo 47, Insert the bolt rope into the mast slot

1. The sheave block at the top of the mast, and at the bottom where the rope comes out should freely roll. If they are stiff or rusted, you will struggle, and should consider replacing them. We had to send off to the USA for replacements for the lower one, but it makes an incredible amount of difference. Try a simple oiling first though, don't immediately replace them. 2. If the sheave is ok, and the bolt rope is a little swollen/rough, try some silicon spray along the luff, this should make it easier to hoist. 3. Check the top of the bolt rope, next to the head of the sail, is tight and not frayed. If necessary, use a sharp knife, such as a craft knife, to cut the lose fraying rope off, then try to seal it with a flame.

Photo 48, Carefully hoist the sail

Photo 49, The rack for the main halyard

Photo 50, The halyard cleated off instead

For a standard Laser 2, you should be able to pull the halyard all the way out and expose the end of the stainless steel rope part of the halyard (Photo 49), then hook the wire loop onto one of the teeth on the halyard rack. Depending on conditions you should increase tension on the mainsail by hooking onto a higher tooth. Unfortunately when we had our main halyard wire replaced (as it was fraying), the replacement wire was not quite long enough, so we've had to add a stainless steel figure 8 cleat on the mast, just to the side of the rack (Photo 50). This however is still class legal. Finally, loosely coil up the rope and stow it - we've added halyard bags to pop this into, which you'll see later.

Photo 51, Starting the downhaul with a bowline

Photo 52, Through the sail

Photo 53, Through the top of the jammer cleat

8. The Downhaul

Next comes the downhaul - the purple rope on our boat. We've used lots of different colour pieces of rope to make it easy to tell which rope each one is, and this one is purpe. Start by tying a bowline in the end of the rope , then feed it through the cringle in the front of the main sail (Photo 51) - you should use the upper one (Photo 52), as you won't be able to pull the sail down much with the lower one, which should be used as a sail inhaul. As shown in the picture, get relatively equal lengths of rope either side of the sail. Next, with the working end, feed it upwards through the jammer cleat (Photo 53) just under the boom so it comes around the top edge of the cleat without touching the jaws, through the eyehole of the bowline (Photo 54), then back down through the jammer cleat, through the jaws. This now gives you a multi-purchase (2:1) downhaul, without using a pulley block, which is against class rules. Put the boom on the gooseneck, and this stage is done, as in Photo 55. Make sure the downhaul passes both sides of the boom as shown in Photo 56.

Photo 54, Back through the bowline loop

Photo 55, The completed downhaul

Photo 56, Make sure its either side of the boom

9. Clew Tie Down

We've added a quick and dirty clew tie down - just a length of rope passed around the boom and through the clew cringle on the mainsail a few times, secured with a reef knot, shown in Photo 57. You can come up with more elaborate solutions, but this is simple enough. Just make sure that it's not too tight, and the outhaul rope passes through the middle of it. You also don't want to trap the mainsheet if you've already added it by this point. Why do we need a clew tie down on a Laser 2? Much like the Laser 1, as it's a loose footed mainsail, if you don't have a clew tie down, when you let the outhaul off, the sail may have a tendency to rise up off the boom just lowering the boom, instead of forward along the boom giving it a more curved shape.

Photo 57, The clew tie down

10. Mainsheet

You probably will already have the correct block attached to the boom for the mainsheet, but if you haven't, it should be the black pulley with a becket. Attach it to the boom as shown, then start the mainsheet off the becket, using a bowline (Photo 58). We're using the 10mm thick blue and white rope (note this isn't standard Laser 2 issue but the class rules don't restrain you on rope types/thicknesses/colours). Take it through the larger top block of the traveller, in the front to back direction (i.e. through the front, and out towards the back) as in Photo 59, then back up and through the first pulley again (Photo 60), this time from the back through to the front. Take it along the boom, through the small fairlead (shown between the two spinnaker pole holders, Photo 61), through the final block on the boom (Photo 62), then through the block on the cockpit floor (Photo 63).

Photo 58, Start the mainsheet with a bowline

Photo 59, Through the traveller block, front to back

Photo 60, Through the boom block, back to front

Photo 61, Through the fairlead on the underside of the boom

Photo 62, Through the last block on the boom

Photo 63, Through the cockpit ratchet block

It needs to go through the cockpit block in certain direction, that is, so the ratchet (when switched on), makes a noise as you pull the rope through as if you were sheeting in. You can see the complete mainsheet arrangement in Picture 64 (ignore the weed choked Mirrors in the background). Ideally, you should put a stopper knot in the mainsheet (Photo 65), so you can't lose it completely through the block (although if you have one long enough this is unlikely). Better still, pull the sail out until the boom is about two inches from touching the shroud, and put a stopper knot in the mainsheet just before it goes through the block - this will keep the boom from hitting the shroud, which can never be a good thing.

Photo 64, The completed mainsheet

Photo 65, Tie a knot in it

The kicking strap, such a necessity. Without it, we can't depower the sail when it's too windy. The one that comes as standard with the Laser 2 is pretty pokey, and to be honest, we couldn't figure out how the odd kicking strap block worked, so we replaced it with the one shown in the photos, which was actually found on the rigging DVD from the Laser 2 class association. Their video guide to it is pretty good, and easier to figure out than seeing it in photos, but we'll try.

Photo 66, The kicker system

Photo 67, The kicker system

The class rules allow two double blocks, one with a jammer cleat on. You are not allowed to use any other pulley blocks in the system, and only one line is allowed, but you are allowed to use the line itself to create a multi-ratio system. How do you do that? With clever use of some knots and loops. You are also allowed to use rope protectors. Photos 66 to 68 show the setup of the kicker.

Start with the bowline around the becket on the jammer cleat (on the right). A bowline loop needs to be made around this becket, with one end going through the one pulley sheave on the other block, and then out the other end, ending in a bowline in a thimble. This knot must be as close to the metal thimble as possible - no gaps, or the rope will fall off the thimble. The other end of the line from the first bowline comes up to the thimble bowline, and through the centre of it, acting as a pulley. It then goes back down to the lower jammer block and around a block (not the jammer one), back up and around a block on the top block, then back down to the lower block, and through the block then jammer.

Photo 68, The kicker system

We've indicated the lengths of rope for each measurement in centimetres - this will take some adjustment on your boat depending on the size of your blocks, and how many shackles you use to attach things, so you may need to vary it slightly. It's important to put this all together next to the boat, as you'll need to adjust the position of the knot, as this controls how far apart the blocks will move, but also how close together the blocks will come. This pulley system is quite tricky - but worth the effort.

Photo 69, Attached to the mast

Photo 70, Attached to the boom

Photo 71, The complete kicker

Next, attach the kicker to the fixing point on the bottom of the mast (Photo 69). You may need a selection of shackles to get the kicker angled correctly - we've since changed ours to use a hook, as it's much easier and quicker to take on and off, but in the photo we've shown three blocks to change the angle enough. You can use a twisted shackle instead if you like. It's a good idea to be careful what shackles you use, as we found the shackle key handle was digging into the aluminium groove on the mast. The other end of the kicker should attach to the kicking point on the boom (Photo 70). While you're still rigging, remember to let the kicker run as slack as possible to depower the sail. The complete setup is shown in Photo 71.

12. Rudder and Centreboard

You can't sail a boat without it's foils... well actually, see our Centreboardless and Rudderless articles but it's pretty tricky doing both at the same time (especially in a Laser 2). In any case, it's much easier to sail with them attached. Next, we attached the rudder (Photo 72), by sliding it onto it's pintles. Our rudder is already setup with the lines attached, which you can see more information on in our article on rudder repairs , but basically, we have the bung attached to the rudder with a thin line (so we never forget it, as shown in Photo 73), and a downhaul on the rudder to allow us to pull it down while on the water. It drops onto it's pintles as shown, then the bung is screwed in. To finish off the rudder, insert the tiller into the top of the stop, and remember to pass the tiller extension under the back part of the traveller (Photo 74), but over the front part, as shown. Secure the tiller into the stock with a cotter pin, as shown in Photo 75, making sure this in turn is tied onto the stock.

Photo 72, Attach the rudder

Photo 73, Remember the bung

Photo 74, Add the tiller and tiller extension

Finally, add the daggerboard. On the Laser 2 it drops into the slot, which you won't be able to do on land. Ideally it should have a securing clip like ours on top, with a matching clip line secured somewhere in the cockpit (Photo 77) - ours is on the front. This stops it sinking or floating off when you capsize. Sorry, if you capsize.

Photo 75, Secure the tiller to rudder

Photo 76, The rudder downhaul ready

Photo 77, Add the centreboard and clip it on

The boat is now ready to sail, as shown in Photo 78! You could take it out just like this, and in fact, if it's your first time in a Laser 2, we recommend you do just that. Get used to it for at least a few hours first (unless you're a pretty spectacular sailor), and then come back for the spinnaker rigging part of this guide.

Photo 78, The completed boat (sans Spinnaker)

13. Spinnaker

This is the first rigging guide we've done with a spinnaker in, so sit tight, this is going to drag on a bit longer!

Most Laser 2 models have a classic symmetric spinnaker. There is one particular model that alledgely has an asymmetric spinnaker, but we can't find much conclusive proof of it, and there's also a one off where some nutter took a mast head asymmetric spinnaker from a 29er and modified a Laser 2 to make it fit. At least one of us at Caution Water is a bit jealous of that...

Photo 79, Block at front of the cockpit

Photo 80, Block at back of the cockpit

Photo 81, Block halfway down the cockpit

Chances are, you'll have a standard symmetric spinnaker model. It's a fair sized spinnaker, at 10 metres squared of sail, it'll keep you going at a fair whack down wind. Some models of the Laser 2 have a built in spinnaker chute running from the front of the deck to the front cockpit wall, but not all do, and if you have one that doesn't, you'll have to use a spinnaker bag, like we do. If you have a chute, it only makes a minor difference to this guide, and we'll point out where that is.

Photo 82, Halyard bags (non standard)

For more in depth articles on how to generally rig a spinnaker, see our series on spinnakers - it would be a good start to read that first. This is the Laser 2 version.

To start, we have a long spinnaker halyard/retrieval line. It goes into a sheave on the mast just above the jib block about 3/4 of the way up the mast, travels down through the mast, and exits just below the gooseneck, on the front of the mast (you can just about see it in Photo 9). There is no sheave at the bottom - just a hole. It then passes through a small jammer cleat on the mast (designed only to hold the spinnaker up, shown in Photo 10), and then starts traversing around the cockpit to turn into the retrieval line.

Photo 83, Spinnaker halyard and retrieval line

Photo 84, Spinnaker halyard and retrieval line

Photo 85, Spinnaker halyard and retrieval line

Coming from the jammer, it comes straight down to a small block located at the front of the cockpit - we've put ours on the same fitting as the toestraps. There are several other blocks that it is then designed to go through. For a properly rigged Laser 2, looking at the cockpit from the front of the boat, it travels from the mast, down through the block we've already discussed, along the middle of the cockpit, through a small pulley block attached to the main sheet block spring, through a small pulley block attached to the back of the cockpit (again to the toestrap fixing point), then back along the length of the cockpit along the right hand side, where it's picked up as the retrieval line, and attached to the spinnaker. You can see this in Photos 79, 80, 81, 83, 84 and 85.

Photo 86, Spinnaker halyard and retrieval line (shortened)

Photo 87, Spinnaker sheet block

Photo 88, Attach the halyard

However, on the few occasions we've tried this arrangement, it's caused issues, typically the longer the line in the cockpit, the more chance of it getting snagged on something or sat on (small cockpit, it's difficult to avoid sitting on things). Most asymmetric boats with spinnakers have their halyard/retrieval line only traverse the front half of the cockpit, so that's what we've done in Photo 86. We have the blocks in the same places, but we miss out the block at the back of the cockpit, so it only travels down to the mainsheet and back, and has less opportunity to get trod on or snagged. We're not entirely sure if this is in contravention of the class rules, so check before you make this minor change for class racing.

Photo 89, Partially hoist the spinnaker

Photo 90, Pass the retrieval line through the first patch

Photo 91, Attach the retrieval line to the second patch

The rest of our setup for the spinnaker is fairly standard. We have a pulley block on either side of the boat, attached to the chainplates for the shrouds with a shackle, as shown in Photo 87. The end of the halyard (that hopefully you didn't lose inside the mast as it's a pain to get through again) is attached to the head of the sail with a bowline, as shown in Photo 88, and the sail is then partially hoisted (Photo 89). The retrieval line that has been fed around the cockpit is fed up through the middle of the first patch (Photo 90), and then attached to the second with a bowline (Photo 91), as the Laser 2 has two retrieval patches. This is just to make getting it down a little easier as it has a fairly big belly. When done, hoist the sail up all the way (unless it's too windy).

Photo 92, Match sheet colour to sail corners

Photo 93, Attach the spinnaker sheet with a bowline

Photo 94, Through the jammer blocks and cleats

Photo 95, Through the fairlead

Photo 96, Attach the other sheet

Photo 97, Through the jammer and block

Next, attach the sheets; we have ours colour coded, white rope with red flecks for port, and green flecks for starboard (shown in Photos 92, 93 and 96). As the corners of the sail are colour coded, it makes everything a little easier. The spinnaker sheets are easily attached with a bowline (Photos 93 and 96). The sheet is then fed through the spinnaker jammer blocks just in front of the shroud chain plates (Photos 94 and 97), through the blocks attached to the chainplates, and then through the external bullseye halfway back along the deck (Photo 95), and into the cockpit. You can see the fully hoisted spinnaker in Photo 98. Make sure you rig all of the spinnaker lines outside of the jib sheets - for this reason it's best to have the jib rigged up first.

Photo 98, The spinnaker hoisted and ready

Photo 99, Pack the spinnaker

Photo 100, Practise this lots

Photo 101, The sheets and halyard go in last and stick out

Finally, drop the sail, and stuff it into the spinnaker bag (Photo 99). The belly and retrieval patches should go in first, followed by the three corners last, with the corners and their attached rope sticking out of the mouth of the bag, free and ready to hoist, as shown in PHotos 100 and 101. As we mentioned before, you can get Laser 2 with spinnaker chutes - we tried to modify ours, and attached a fabric spinnaker chute from a Dart 16, which is about 4 feet long and made out of grey shiny material. Unfortunately as it was relatively new, and the spinnaker was also fairly new, there was too much friction between the two, and the spinnaker would only pull in about 2 feet, so it didn't really work. Sailing's all about experimenting :)

There are two final things for the spinnaker - firstly, the spinnaker pole should be attached to the boom. In Photo 4, you can see two grey things, one either side of the boom, about 2/3rds of the way down the boom. These are very similar to short off cuts of fairly narrow guttering, riveted to the boom. The pole pushes through one of these, then is held to the end of the boom using a small elastic bungee tie, similar to those you get on marquees. The other thing is the spinnaker pole uphaul/downhaul. There is a metal fairlead half way up the mast. To this we have attached a length of elastic, which ends in a stainless steel S-hook. This elastic is short enough to be under tension enough so that when it attaches to the small fairlead half way down the spinnaker pole, it pulls the pole up (even when it is under load of the spinnaker). This S-hook also has a length of 5mm rope attached to it, which comes down from the hook, through a v-jammer cleat on the mast (there is one on the front that can be used), and this will now act as a pole uphaul/downhaul. When not in use, clip it onto the spinnaker pole ring on the front of the mast.

Photo 102, Ready to hoist when on the water

So there you have it - this was a long one, as we said - there's lots of things to play with on a Laser 2. There are various different models, but many of them will have the features described above, and if you have one that has anything extra we'd be happy to receive photos to add to this guide. Enjoy sailing your Laser 2!

Fig 1. Get all the gear ready

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Laser 2 is a 14 ′ 5 ″ / 4.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Bethwaite Design and Ian Bruce and built by Performance Sailcraft between 1978 and 1987.

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The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

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Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Thanks to Ken H. for contributing drawing scanned from orginal brochure. The LASER 2 has a convoluted history. There was the LASER II FUN, and the LASER II REGATTA, a LASER FUN NEW WAVE, (which added an assym. spinnaker). All retired before 1990.

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Laser 2 Sailboat: The Ultimate Guide to Mastering this High-Performance Racing Dinghy

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer laser 2 sailboat:

The Laser 2 sailboat is a high-performance sailing dinghy designed for racing and recreational sailing. It features a single trapeze, a mainsail, and a jib, providing exciting and responsive sailing experiences. Its hull is made from fiberglass, making it durable and lightweight.

Introduction to the Laser 2 Sailboat: Experience the Thrill of Sailing with this Classic Vessel

Have you ever dreamed of harnessing the power of the wind and gliding across the open waters? If so, then the Laser 2 Sailboat is just what you need to make those dreams a reality. With its sleek design, nimble handling, and unparalleled performance, this classic vessel has been a favorite among sailing enthusiasts for decades.

The Laser 2 Sailboat is renowned for its ability to thrill both beginners and experienced sailors alike. Whether you’re looking to learn the ropes or test your skills in competitive racing, this versatile boat is up to the task. Its simple rigging system and responsive controls make it easy to handle, even for novices. And with its durable construction and steady buoyancy, it can withstand any conditions Mother Nature throws at it.

One of the most captivating aspects of the Laser 2 Sailboat is its incredible speed. Once you catch a gust of wind in its fully battened sail, you’ll feel an exhilarating rush as you slice through the water like a knife. The combination of its lightweight hull and powerful sail allows for impressive acceleration and top speeds that will leave other boats trailing behind. It’s no wonder why sailors around the world have fallen head over heels in love with this legendary vessel.

But don’t be fooled by its fast-paced nature – the Laser 2 Sailboat also offers plenty of opportunities for leisurely cruising and exploration. Its spacious cockpit can comfortably accommodate two or three people, making it perfect for adventurous outings with friends or family members. Take a lazy afternoon sail along picturesque coastlines or navigate tranquil lakes while enjoying breathtaking views – there’s no limit to where this magnificent vessel can take you.

What truly sets apart the Laser 2 Sailboat from other sailboats is its community. Joining fellow sailors who share your passion for adventure and camaraderie makes every sailing experience all the more enjoyable. Connect with experienced professionals who can offer valuable tips on technique, equipment, and maintenance. Engage in spirited discussions about your latest sailing adventures or upcoming regattas. With the Laser 2 Sailboat, you’ll become part of a tight-knit group that spans the globe, bound together by a love for this remarkable vessel.

So, if you’re ready to embark on an unforgettable sailing journey, look no further than the Laser 2 Sailboat. Experience the sheer thrill of harnessing the power of wind with its unmatched performance and speed. Immerse yourself in a vibrant community of like-minded sailors who will inspire and support you along the way. Get ready to create memories that will last a lifetime – because once you’ve experienced sailing with this classic vessel, there’s no turning back.

How to Master the Art of Sailing a Laser 2 Sailboat: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Sailing is an ancient art that has captivated humans for centuries, invoking a sense of freedom, adventure, and pure bliss. If you’ve ever daydreamed about gliding effortlessly across the water with the wind in your hair, then learning how to sail a Laser 2 sailboat might be the perfect endeavor for you. In this step-by-step guide tailored specifically for beginners, we will explore the intricacies of sailing a Laser 2 and offer tips to help you master this exhilarating hobby.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics Before setting foot on a Laser 2 sailboat, it’s crucial to grasp the fundamental concepts of sailing. Familiarize yourself with key terms such as “tacking” (changing direction against the wind), “jibing” (changing direction with the wind behind you), and “points of sail” (different angles at which a boat can travel relative to the wind). Learning these essentials will serve as your foundation in becoming a skilled sailor.

Step 2: Preparing Your Laser 2 Sailboat Once you’ve familiarized yourself with sailing’s terminology, it’s time to prep your vessel. Ensure that all necessary equipment is on board and properly functioning- from ropes and rigging to sails and rudders. A well-maintained boat guarantees a smoother sail and contributes significantly to overall performance.

Step 3: Rigging Your Boat Rigging refers to setting up your boat, including attaching sails and rigging ropes correctly. This process can seem daunting at first but fear not! It becomes second nature with practice. Pay close attention to maintaining proper tension in your rigging lines – too loose or too tight can impact maneuverability considerably.

Step 4: Launching Your Laser 2 Sailboat You’re now ready for launch! Identify a safe location with suitable access points for entering the water; preferable areas would have few obstructions like rocks or shallow waters. Be mindful of wind conditions and direction before venturing out to ensure a more enjoyable experience – light to moderate winds are ideal for beginners.

Step 5: Safety First Never underestimate the importance of safety during any sailing activity. Before setting sail, equip yourself with a personal flotation device (PFD) and ensure everyone on board does the same. Also, be aware of weather forecasts and water currents that can affect your journey. Remember, wise sailors prioritize safety above all else.

Step 6: Balancing Act Mastering balance is vital when sailing a Laser 2 sailboat as shifts in body weight greatly impact agility and speed. Finding your center of gravity as you maneuver, particularly during turns or gusts of wind, will optimize your boat’s performance. Train your mind and body to anticipate these changes; it is both an art and a science.

Step 7: Navigating the Wind Understanding the nuances of wind direction is key to becoming an accomplished sailor. Study how sails behave when catching the wind at different angles, known as points of sail mentioned earlier. Adjusting the angle between the sail’s edge and the wind will allow you to harness its power efficiently while simultaneously controlling your course.

Step 8: Mastering Tacking and Jibing Now comes the exciting part – changing directions! Tacking refers to turning into the wind by bringing the bow through it; jibing involves turning away from the wind with it behind you. These maneuvers require practice, timing, and coordination between crew members (if applicable). As you become more proficient in tacking and jibing smoothly, you’ll experience newfound confidence in maneuverability.

Step 9: Advanced Skills & Techniques Congratulations! You’ve grasped the basics and are now ready to delve into more advanced techniques such as fine-tuning sail trim (adjustment), mastering upwind sailing angles, or even attempting tricks like planing (sailing at high speed with hull lifting out of the water). These skills come with time and experience, so continue pushing your boundaries as you evolve in your sailing journey.

Step 10: Continued Learning Sailing is an art that can never be fully mastered. The beauty lies in continuous learning, honing your skills, and embracing new challenges. Join sailing clubs or communities to exchange knowledge and experiences with fellow enthusiasts. Embrace the lifelong process of understanding wind patterns, experimenting with sail configurations, and exploring different bodies of water. Be open to new discoveries!

In conclusion, mastering the art of sailing a Laser 2 sailboat requires patience, dedication, and enthusiasm. With this step-by-step guide for beginners as your compass, set sail on a transformative journey that will unlock a world of adventure and sheer joy out on the open waters. Let the wind carry you toward newfound horizons as you become one with nature through the sport of sailing!

Frequently Asked Questions About the Laser 2 Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

Title: Frequently Asked Questions About the Laser 2 Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

Introduction: Ahoy, sailing enthusiasts! Whether you are new to sailing or a seasoned sailor, one boat that has undoubtedly caught your attention is the Laser 2 Sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we will address some of the most commonly asked questions about this remarkable vessel. So grab your captain’s hat, secure your lifejacket, and let’s set sail into the world of the Laser 2!

1. What Makes the Laser 2 Sailboat So Special? The Laser 2 Sailboat stands out for its versatility and high-performance capabilities in both cruising and racing scenarios. The boat features an innovative design that combines speed and stability like no other. Its two-man configuration allows for collaboration between sailors while maneuvering through varied wind conditions, making it truly unique among its counterparts.

2. How Does It Differ from Other Sailboats? While there are many sailboats on the market, the Laser 2 sets itself apart through its adaptability. This vessel can be equipped with various rigging options according to your skill level or desired sailing style. From a single-sail setup for beginners to twin-trapeze configurations for advanced racers seeking an adrenaline rush – there is something for everyone!

3. Is It Beginner-Friendly? Absolutely! The Laser 2 caters to sailors of all expertise levels. Novice sailors can embark on their nautical adventures with confidence due to its forgiving nature and stable hull design. With accessible controls and simplified rigging systems, those new to sailing will find it easy to learn the ropes while still experiencing thrilling moments on the water.

4. How Do Its Racing Capabilities Compare with Other Boats? For competitive spirits hungry for victories on race day, the Laser 2 won’t disappoint! Its lightweight hull allows for quick acceleration, ensuring you consistently remain at the forefront of races against competitors. The boat’s maneuverability and responsive controls allows for quick adjustments, making it a fierce contender even in highly competitive fleets.

5. Can It Be Sailed Single-Handed? Yes, it can! Though designed as a two-person sailboat, the Laser 2 can be sailed solo by experienced sailors who prefer going solo or need some solitude on the water. With appropriate modifications and adjustments to the rigging systems, it is possible to enjoy the Laser 2 experience single-handedly.

6. What Type of Maintenance Does the Laser 2 Sailboat Require? The Laser 2 is known for its durability and low-maintenance requirements. Its robust construction ensures longevity, while simple systems make maintenance tasks hassle-free. Regular cleaning after each sail and occasional inspections of rigging components should suffice to keep your Laser 2 in top-notch condition for years of enjoyment.

7. Where Can I Find Spare Parts or Accessories? Fear not, fellow mariner! The Laser 2 community is strong, with passionate enthusiasts regularly sharing tips, tricks, and information about spare parts or accessories. Numerous online retailers specialize in providing genuine Laser 2 components to ensure you find exactly what you need with ease.

Conclusion: Now that we have delved into the world of frequently asked questions about the remarkable Laser 2 Sailboat, you are equipped with vital knowledge that will help you set sail confidently upon its sleek hull. Whether you’re seeking casual cruising adventures or craving exhilarating races, this versatile vessel has got your back covered. So cast off from land and embark on unforgettable aquatic expeditions aboard the magnificent Laser 2 – where thrill meets tranquility!

Exploring the Design and Features of the Laser 2 Sailboat: What Sets It Apart?

Introduction:

The Laser 2 sailboat is not your ordinary watercraft. It is a remarkable fusion of design, engineering, and ergonomics that sets it apart from other sailboats in the market. In this blog post, we will dive into the intricacies of its design and explore the array of features that make the Laser 2 a true standout.

1. Lightweight Construction:

One striking feature of the Laser 2 sailboat is its lightweight construction. Meticulously crafted using advanced materials and innovative manufacturing techniques, every component is designed to reduce weight without compromising on strength. This means increased durability while allowing for swift and nimble sailing performance.

2. High-performance Hull Design:

At the heart of the Laser 2’s exceptional functionality lies its masterfully designed hull. Utilizing extensive research and cutting-edge hydrodynamics, this boat glides through water with minimal resistance, maximizing both speed and maneuverability. Its sleek lines seamlessly integrate form with function, making it a sight to behold as it effortlessly slices through waves.

3. Three-sail Configuration:

Unlike conventional sailboats sporting a single or double-sail setup, the Laser 2 boasts a unique three-sail configuration that takes sailing to a whole new level. Consisting of a main sail, jib, and spinnaker, this trifecta offers enhanced control over various wind conditions. Whether you’re gracefully cruising along or chasing adrenaline-fueled speeds, this versatile setup ensures an exhilarating experience for sailors of all skill levels.

4. Ergonomic Cockpit Design:

The Laser 2’s cockpit design strikes an exquisite balance between comfort and functionality. The ergonomically contoured seating positions allow sailors to maintain optimal control while minimizing strain during long journeys or intense racing competitions. Every touchpoint has been meticulously engineered to keep sailors in harmony with their vessel – leading to enhanced responsiveness and precision handling on the water.

5. Rigging Simplicity:

Tying knots and setting up a sailboat can be a daunting task for newcomers. However, the Laser 2 eliminates this complexity by incorporating an intuitive rigging system. With numbered lines and user-friendly adjustments, even novice sailors can quickly learn to set up and fine-tune their sails. By reducing hassle and ensuring ease of use, the Laser 2 empowers sailors to focus on what truly matters – sailing itself.

6. Durability that Stands the Test of Time:

Investing in any watercraft is a significant decision — one that requires assurance of its longevity. The Laser 2’s robust construction ensures it stands the test of time, with high-quality materials and meticulous craftsmanship providing unmatched durability. This means you can confidently embark on countless adventures without worrying about wear and tear impacting your vessel’s performance or structural integrity.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, the Laser 2 sailboat undoubtedly surpasses expectations when it comes to design and features. Its lightweight construction, high-performance hull design, three-sail configuration, ergonomic cockpit, rigging simplicity, and durable build make it shine amidst a sea of ordinary sailboats. Whether you’re an experienced sailor seeking exhilarating thrill rides or a beginner looking to enter the world of sailing, the Laser 2 sets itself apart as a sophisticated watercraft that guarantees unforgettable experiences on every voyage.

Safety Tips and Precautions for Sailing a Laser 2 Sailboat: Enjoying Your Adventure Responsibly

Sailing a Laser 2 Sailboat can be an exhilarating experience, allowing you to explore the open waters and enjoy the serenity of the sea. However, just like any other water sport, it’s crucial to prioritize safety and take necessary precautions to ensure an enjoyable adventure. In this blog post, we will provide you with detailed professional advice on how to safely navigate your Laser 2 Sailboat while still having a witty and clever time!

1. Mind the Weather Forecast: Before setting sail, always check the weather forecast thoroughly. Wind speed, direction, and potential storms are critical factors that can greatly influence your sailing experience. While it may seem exciting to challenge yourself in rough conditions or strong winds, it’s essential to understand your abilities and limitations as a sailor. Remember, responsible sailors don’t disregard signs of inclement weather – they adjust their plans accordingly.

2. Get Comfortable with Your Boat: Knowing your boat inside out is paramount for safe sailing adventures. Take the time to familiarize yourself with every aspect of your Laser 2 Sailboat – from its rigging and sails to its navigation instruments and safety equipment. A witty sailor knows their boat intimately; better understanding ensures you’re prepared for any situation that comes your way.

3. Safety Equipment Should Be Your Best Friend: Never set sail without properly equipped safety gear! Life jackets are at the top of the list – make sure you have enough for each crew member aboard your Laser 2 Sailboat. Additionally, carry flares or alternative signaling devices in case you need help in an emergency situation — cleverly choose colorful flares that match your vibrant personality!

4. Communicate Effectively: Before embarking on your sailing journey, let someone else know about your plans. Share details including departure time, estimated return time, planned route (if applicable), and emergency contact information. Keeping friends or family informed allows them to keep an eye out for your well-being from the shore, and they’ll appreciate your responsible approach to adventuring.

5. Buddy System: Sailing is more enjoyable when you have company. Not only does sailing with a partner enhance your overall experience, but it also enhances safety. In case of an injury or other unforeseen circumstances, having a buddy on board ensures that there’s always someone available to assist or seek help if needed — plus, you can share witty banter during those long stretches of calm waters!

6. Keep Your Phone Dry: While it may seem obvious, we cannot stress enough how important it is to keep your phone protected from water damage. We live in a world where being connected is essential – not just for capturing clever Instagram stories but also for emergencies. Today’s smartphones are often equipped with waterproof or resistant features; however, carrying them in a proper waterproof case will provide an extra layer of protection – just in case things get too wet and wild!

7. Education is Key: Investing time in expanding your sailing knowledge through courses and certifications will undoubtedly make you a safer sailor. Understanding navigation rules, reading charts or maps, and knowing how to react in different boating situations are invaluable skills that come with education and training. Being professionally skilled while exhibiting a clever wit ensures admiration from fellow sailors!

8. Respect Nature: Finally, always respect the environment around you when sailing your Laser 2 Sailboat. Avoid littering, decrease noise pollution as much as possible (we know it can be difficult when celebrating witty victories on the high seas!), and follow guidelines for responsible anchoring practices.

In conclusion, enjoying sailing adventures responsibly means putting safety first while injecting some wit and charm into every voyage aboard your Laser 2 Sailboat! By following these tips and precautions diligently, you can confidently navigate the open waters while having fun, ensuring your adventure is memorable for all the right reasons. Happy sailing and stay cleverly safe!

Unleashing Your Competitiveness: Racing Techniques and Strategies in a Laser 2 Sailboat

Introduction: Sailing is a sport that has captured the hearts of adventurers and thrill-seekers since time immemorial. The sense of freedom, mastery over nature, and the adrenaline rush offered by sailing are unparalleled. Amongst all the sailboat classes out there, the Laser 2 is renowned for its exhilarating speed, maneuverability, and versatility. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or a novice looking to dive into competitive racing, this blog post will guide you through some ingenious techniques and strategies to unleash your competitiveness in a Laser 2 sailboat.

1. Mastering Boat Handling: A vital aspect of successful racing in a Laser 2 is mastering boat handling skills. This includes understanding how to efficiently maneuver your vessel through various wind conditions, waves, and currents. Being able to extract maximum speed from your sailboat while maintaining control requires finesse. Practice tacking (turning the bow of the boat through the wind) and jibing (turning the stern through the wind) until these maneuvers become second nature.

2. Effectively Using Sail Controls: Sail controls play a crucial role in optimizing your overall performance on water. Familiarize yourself with the main controls available on a Laser 2: mainsheet, traveler, vang/kicker, cunningham/downhaul, and outhaul; each has its own purpose in fine-tuning your sails’ shape and power efficiency. Understanding how to trim your sails using these controls can make a significant difference in speed and responsiveness.

3. Tactical Decision-Making: Racing involves not just raw sailing skills but also strategic decision-making on the racecourse. Analyze wind shifts meticulously to anticipate changes before they occur and position yourself advantageously on the course accordingly. Keep an eye on other competitors’ tactics as well; learn from their successes but also be ready to adapt and counter their moves. Sail smart, exploiting any tactical opportunity that arises to gain an edge over your rivals.

4. Teamwork: For those participating in two-person or three-person Laser 2 racing, effective teamwork is paramount. Communication between teammates on boat handling, sail setting adjustments, and tactical decisions need to be smooth and seamless. A synchronized effort between the helmsman and crew can make the difference between a win and a loss. Develop trust with your team members, learn each other’s strengths and weaknesses, and work in tandem towards a common goal.

5. Physical Fitness: Sailing may not seem like an intense physical activity at first glance, but maintaining optimal fitness levels is vital for competitive success in a Laser 2 sailboat race. Cardiovascular endurance helps you sustain high energy levels throughout demanding races, while strength training allows you to handle the boat’s forces efficiently during maneuvers. Core stability exercises are indispensable for maintaining balance on trapezing boats like the Laser 2.

Conclusion: Unleashing your competitiveness in a Laser 2 sailboat is a journey that combines technical mastery of boat handling, strategic decision-making, effective teamwork, and physical fitness. Investing time in honing these skills will undoubtedly elevate your racing game to new heights of excellence. So embrace the thrill of competition, embrace the adventure that comes with sailing a Laser 2, and prepare to unleash your full potential as you conquer the waves with style!

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Laser 2 Info & Links

The Laser 2 (Laser II) is a high-performance racing dinghy designed by Frank Bethwaite in 1979, in a similar fashion to the strict one design Laser dinghy. The Bethwaite family went on to design the well known and highly respected 29er & 49er classes.

Designed to be sailed by a crew of two, the lightweight hull comes readily to the plane, which makes for fast and exciting sailing, especially off the wind on a 3 sail reach. Due to it's relatively short length, it's very responsive and can be challenging to sail. Quick to rig and easy to right from a capsize, all sail controls are kept simple. Its only real downside is its poor light wind performance. It's best suited to light to medium weight crews.

The hulls and fittings are very well made and will usually last a long time. Older boats usually clean up well and the original fittings can normally be bought back into action using WD40 or silicon spray.

Several variations of the Laser 2 were produced:

Laser 2 Regatta

The Laser 2 Regatta is the racing version equipped with spinnaker and trapeze (earlier versions used bags instead of a shute). This is the standard and most common version of the Laser 2 dinghy, which was extremely popular and heavily marketed by the Laser Centre during the 1980s and early 1990s.

Laser 2 Fun

The Laser 2 Fun was designed for recreational sailing. It doesn't have a spinnaker, features brightly coloured sails, reefing points on the mainsail and a furling jib mechanism.

Laser 2 Fun New Wave

A short lived Laser 2 featuring an asymmetric spinnaker.

Escape Expedition

The Escape Expedition 14.5 was a Laser 2 hull combined with an Escape SmartRig.

The Laser 3000 is essentially a Laser 2 hull with an asymmetric rig and open, self-draining cockpit, which was introduced in 1996.

Vandercraft 3000 (V3000)

The V3000 is an improved version of the Laser 3000.

• UK Laser 2 Facebook Page
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• Measurement Diagram 1 (hull layout)
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Sail numbers by year

Rope Lengths

Taken from the rigging manual:

© J. Bell 2024

Sailboat specifications

• Last update: 20th March 2020

Laser 2000's main features

Laser 2000's main dimensions, laser 2000's rig and sails, laser 2000's performances, laser 2000's auxiliary engine, laser 2000's accommodations and layout.

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Laser 4000 Training Spinnaker

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Laser 4000 training spinnakers are made from MPEX-70 which is a 0.75oz multi-purpose nylon spinnaker fabric that's woven from high tenacity nylon. The sail is designed with the latest plotting and cutting software.

The eyes are hydraulically pressed and are made from stainless steel. We've added reinforcement in all the right places and the sails are professionally made to last.

Our training spinnakers are available in red, white or blue and are made in the UK.

Sail Cloth Weight: 48gsm / 1.12smoz.

Comes complete with a sail bag.

Please note, this sail is made to order with a lead time of 10-20 working days.

Training sails are designed for club or training use and are made from hard wearing sail material. The sails are not class legal for racing events but are a cost effective fully compatible option for your sailing.

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Do you ship to other locations?

As standard we ship to the UK, Ireland, USA, Canada, UAE, Australia and New Zealand.

We are always happy to provide you with a quote for shipping to other destinations, simply drop us an email to [email protected] with the items you are planning on ordering and your address. We can then work out a shipping quote for you and arrange payment for your order.

Who are Sailing Chandlery?

We're a team of sailors who are passionate about keeping you sailing and providing an excellent service first time. Find out more .

Have another question? You can call the team on 01268 222912 or email us [email protected]

Our small but dynamic team at Sailing Chandlery are here to offer you the best support for your sailing. As a team we are passionate about giving you the service you deserve and getting you back on the water quickly. Find out why our founder Andrew started the business.

What our customer say about us

Don't take our word for it, see what our customers say about Sailing Chandlery and the service we provide

Sailing Chandlery

Great service.

Called SC to get advice on a piece of deck hardware. Was provided with good advice, items were in stock, good value and despatched same day. I was back racing for the weekend. Thank you

I use Sailing Chandlery because they are consistently good

I use Sailing Chandlery because they have a good range at fair prices. If I need to call Sailing Chandlery staff have great product knowledge & despatch items promptly too 😀

First experience of Sailing Chandlery…

I’ve never used Sailing Chandlery before but I certainly will again. It was very easy to place my order on line and better still the item I wanted was in stock in the correct size. Communication with the company was excellent and I was kept well informed about the status of my order. The goods were delivered very promptly and well packaged. Thank you

Super fast delivery and a wide variety…

Super fast delivery and a wide variety of items so I got everything I needed the next day.

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