topper sailboat parts diagram

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• Owner's manual

Topper Owner's Manual

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Table of Contents

• Address of Manufacturer
• Hin Number (Located on Right Side of Stern)
• Declaration of Conformity
• Principal Dimensions
• Design Category
• Important Safety Information
• Control Lines
• Sail Numbers & National Lettering
• Championship Sail Numbers
• Mainsheet/ Traveller/ Downhaul/ Kicker
• Rudder/ Daggerboard/ Reefing
• Reefing the Sail
• Worlds Race Pack
• Adjusting Sail
• Tuning for Performance
• Hull and Deck
• Maintenance & Service
• Warranty Conditions
• Registration of Warranty
• Itca Membership

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Summary of Contents for Topper Topper

• Page 1 www.toppersailboats.com...

Page 3: Table Of Contents

Page 4: introduction, page 5: declaration of conformity, page 6: design category, page 7: important safety information, page 8: components.

• Page 9 The Topper is built to the One-Design of Ian Proctor under licence of the Copyright from Ian Proctor Designs Limited. Topper is a registered Trade Mark of Ian Proctor Designs Ltd.

Page 10: Rigging Index

Page 11: control lines, page 12: sail numbers & national lettering, page 13: championship sail numbers, page 14: mast/ sail/ boom, page 15: the mast, page 16: mainsheet/ traveller/ downhaul/ kicker, page 17: rudder/ daggerboard/ reefing, page 18: worlds race pack.

• Page 19 3:1 KICKER system To rig the 3:1 Worlds Kicker System (B) firstly attach the smaller block with the twisted shackle onto the metal ring on the underside of the boom. Then clip the main kicking strap block to the mast. (The kicker should be supplied pre-rigged as described here;...
• Page 20 To attach the 6:1 downhaul This is set up ready, all you need to do is attach the carbine hook with the single block on it to the webbing loop towards the front of the sail and the carbine clip with two pulleys to the kicker fitting on the mast.
• Page 21 Centre- mainsheet system (continued) 3. Lead along the boom, through the sailcloth loop, and then through the block hanging just behind the kicker. 4. Finally take the mainsheet down to the ratchet block, making sure it clicks as you feed it through. Tip;...

Page 22: Adjusting Sail

Page 23: tuning for performance, page 24: maintenance & service.

• Page 25 No maintenance is required but check that the universal Storage linkage is secure. The Topper may be stood on its transom, providing pintle Rudder Pintle on Hull and gudgeon are kept clear of the ground. It can be slung This is the stainless steel transom plate on which the rudder in straps or stored upside down in the same way that it is supported on a roof rack.

Page 26: Warranty Conditions

Page 27: itca membership.

• Page 28 Topper International Ltd Kingsnorth Technology Park Wotton Road Ashford Kent TN23 6LN Telephone 01233 629186 Fax 01233 645897 email [email protected] www.toppersailboats.com Topper International Class Association ITCA (GBR) 17 Woods Hill Lane Ashurst Woods West Sussex RH19 3RW Telephone 01342 311873 email [email protected]...

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Leave a comment

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Preparing Your Topper For Success

Book Extract

Finding The Right Boat 

There are nearly 50,000 Toppers out there somewhere so finding one should not be too difficult. Finding a boat suitable for racing is more of an issue. All the injection-moulded (red or blue) Toppers ever made came out of the same mould so they should all be the same and they are pretty well indestructible. Alternatively look for a boat used as a race boat and it will come with race controls and be well looked after. 

Perhaps the best boats are ones left in a boat park for years and years. The grass may be growing around them but a quick power-wash and they will look (almost) as good as new. 

What To Look Out For   Check that the mast cup, at the base of the mast, is not worn through and that the transom plate bolts can be fully tightened. Make sure the spars are straight and the sail has some service left in it.  

All spares are available and there is not a lot to go wrong in truth. Hulls and decks can be welded and leaks can always be stopped.

Check that the hull is not too scratched or distorted.

Maintaining & Preparing Your Boat

General Maintenance

Maintenance is straightforward and a little time spent brings a lot of rewards:

• Tighten all screws but be careful not to overtighten
• Clean an injection-moulded (red or blue) hull with bathroom cleaner and a plastic scouring pad. Deep scratches can be improved with ‘wet and dry’ glass-paper
• Hose down with fresh water (especially the mast step) if sailing on the sea to slow down corrosion and to maintain the performance of the moving parts
• The rivets on the mast and boom are stainless steel or monel. Check regularly and, if necessary, replace them

If water is getting into the watertight hull, check the areas listed below by pumping the boat up a little (lung pressure will do) and applying washing up liquid and water to:

• The self-bailer: This is best removed and re-bedded with Sikaflex or silicon sealant. There is a gasket between the deck and the hull in this area that can also be replaced with Sikaflex
• The transom plate: The captive nut on the inside plate can become detached preventing the bolts being tightened. Replacement of this nut is difficult (but not impossible) because hatches are not allowed under class rules for injection-moulded (red) boats
• The mast cup at the foot of the mast has a bolt that pulls the hull and deck together. This cup should be replaced occasionally to prevent damage to the deck as it wears away. Behind it there is also a seal that may need replacing
• The bung should be sealed and possibly replaced
• The seal at the top of the daggerboard case: Sikaflex and the use of negative pressure in the hull, using a vacuum cleaner, will cure this!

It is rare to find that deck-to-hull seals leak but they can.

Injection-moulded (red) Toppers were made of polypropylene and this must be taken into account. They are often mistreated by non-racers because they are so difficult to destroy! Racers need to take special care.  

Hulls must be stored upside down or they take on a ‘set’ (wavy hulls are not fast!). Scratches are difficult to remove from the hull and oh so easy to put in! 

You can scrape them out but I prefer using a sharp blade as a scraper followed by ‘wet and dry’ sandpaper, starting with a rough grade and finishing off with 1000-grade and plenty of water.  

A good quality trolley that supports the hull in the right places is essential. A high handle position on the trolley will save your back as well as the transom of the boat. 

Other tips with injection-moulded (red) hulls:

• Bed down the hull plate by removing the top of the inserts
• Tape the join between hull plate and hull with 5cm (2in) waterproof tape
• Tape the head of the mast cup screw
• Check the positioning of the foam block in the rear tank

Rota-moulded (grey) Toppers are made from polyethylene which is very strong but can be scratched, so make sure you use a trolley and don’t put the hull directly on anything hard. Hull repairs should be undertaken by someone qualified with the relevant skills and equipment.

The outer toestraps should be as tight as possible to keep them out of the way. Pad the central toestrap for comfort and grip. Use elastic at the back of the cockpit to hold the centre toestrap up and the outer toestraps out (see p136-137 for how to fit this). Also use elastic at the front of the central toestrap.

Books related to Preparing Your Topper For Success

Topper Book

Caig, John & Cockerill, Dave

Format: Paperback & E-Book

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We have put the boat on this trolley but not yet used it for launch and recovery. First impressions are very good, It fits together well and is super easy to assemble - it's made to put together and take apart fast if you want to put it in a vehicle etc. It is very lightweight which should be a boon launching and recovering the boat - at the same time it looks strong and well made. Being aluminium we won't have a rust problem either. I was impressed how it fits perfectly wherever it supports the boat. So assuming it performs well in use we are pleased we got this. Very helpful guy on the phone and it came quickly so all good, thanks,

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My Topper sails infinitely better with this new sail, , much faster, came with strap and eye at head, had to unpick and remove the strap to work with my halyard loop. David

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I took advantage of the offcut sale to try out some of the more expensive ropes for my limited needs. I have not seen this kind of offer before, and I was able to find some lengths and qualities I would not normally worry about. Great service and sensible prices. Customer focused offers. I also plan to use some of the offcuts to improve my whipping and splicing. Does my son know he is being towed down the Thames with a rope that would be on the more expensive yachts with a breaking strength well over what we need, no. Does it matter - actually yes it does :)

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