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The ultimate boat survey checklist

By Author Robin Urquhart

Posted on Last updated: August 28, 2021

Photo credit: taduuda

You’ve found a boat to buy that looks good on paper, but what horrors lurk beneath? Time to do a deep dive with a full marine survey.

Part of our  “how to buy a boat”  series.

Conducting a marine survey can be a very fun task.  It is our first opportunity to really get to know a boat.  We always conduct a mini-survey and have some idea of what the boat is about, but it’s not until we get down to the nitty-gritty that we really see what’s going on.

We have developed a list of actions and things to look for in a full blown marine survey.  Most of this doesn’t require any specialized knowledge, just a pair of latex gloves and keen eyes.  Our marine survey does not replace, nor should it, a professional marine survey.  If we are happy with the result of our survey, we’ll make an offer on the boat and make a term of the offer our approval of a professional marine survey.  But due to the cost of a professional survey, which is usually north of $500, we reserve this service for when we are really serious about buying the boat, which is why our own survey is so important.

The following is a breakdown of items to check, how to check them and our experience.  It may not be possible to go through everything in this list, but it is worth trying.  We have found the full survey takes us anywhere from 2-4 hours.  Sometimes we have to break this over a couple of trips depending on the owner’s schedule.  We have found it works best if the owner isn’t breathing on our necks the whole time, but that can also present the opportunity to ask a lot of questions.  We have been burned a couple of times by dishonest owners so we take their answers with a grain of salt and check everything no matter what they say.

We’ve included a FREE boat survey worksheet at the bottom of the post that you can download and take with you on your next boat visit.

Boat Survey Checklist

Blisters. 4

Cracks (especially at keel hull joint) 4

Bottom paint condition. 4

Soft spots/hollow spots. 4

Scratches or chips in the gelcoat, evidence of filler 5

Thru-hulls. 5

Grab rails. 6

Life lines. 6

Thru-decks. 7

Chainplates. 7

Soft spots. 7

Cracking. 8

Mast electrical 8

Shrouds and stays. 8

Lines and sheets. 8

Antennae. 8

Propeller 9

Propeller shaft and strut 9

Below deck. 9

Keel bolts. 10

Water staining. 10

Rust and corrosion. 10

Thru-hulls. 10

Bulkheads. 10

Chainplates. 11

Mast step. 11

Locker doors. 11

Interior woodwork. 11

Upholstery and cushions. 11

Comforts. 12

Cleanliness. 12

Spare parts. 12

Electrical 12

Batteries. 12

Lighting. 13

Electronics. 13

Additional items. 13

Check from multiple angles and in different conditions.  The blisters are often only slight undulations and can be hard to see.  Evening and early morning light where the sun’s rays are at an acute angle to the hull are especially good times to view.  Blisters are often most visible after a couple of days of the boat being out of water and as the hull begins to dry out.  They can appear as small wet spots (usually about the size of a dime or quarter) or areas where paint has chipped off.  If the hull has been out of the water for a few weeks or months, the blisters may have dried out and will be more difficult to see.  If the hull is not clean or has a buildup of many layers of bottom paint, blisters can be extremely difficult to detect.

Our experience

Our latest boat had a lot of blisters, which we didn’t notice until we began scraping paint off the hull.  We scraped over 100 lbs of paint off the hull and it was worst build-up we have ever seen.  Underneath were a lot of little blisters.  Luckily they were all very small and mostly in the first layer of fibreglass.  I drilled them out with a dremel and filled them with epoxy after letting them dry out for a week.  It was not expensive, or dangerous, just time intensive.  In the end we repaired about 150 blisters.

Cracks (especially at keel hull joint)

Check for a crack between the hull and keel.  In some boats this may appear as a ‘smile.’  Check the bottom paint for cracking as it may not be obvious.  If the boat has recently come out of the water, the crack may appear as a slightly wet area or discoloured.  If the hull is not clean it can be difficult to detect cracks.  Also check the bow area and front of the keel for any cracks or signs of stress.

Bottom paint condition

Scraping bottom paint is a time intensive job.  If multiple layers of bottom paint have built up it is an indication that the owner has not been putting much time into maintaining the boat.  A build-up of bottom paint will slow the boat down and make it difficult to see nascent issues such as osmosis blisters.

OMFG what a terrible job.  It took us and my parents two weeks of straight scraping and chemical treatment and sanding to get the hull down to gelcoat again.  We would be very wary to do it again.  Again it is sweat equity and we, at times, enjoyed the process, especially the finished product. 

Soft spots/hollow spots

Tap on the hull with a 4oz. Hammer or some other light, metallic implement.  Listen for the sound it makes.  The sounds can be difficult to interpret as anything bonded to the hull, like bulkheads or water tanks, will make the tap sound sharper.  Listen for especially dull taps in a cored-hull as they may indicate water intrusion into the coring.  This is a big problem and should be reviewed by a professional surveyor if in doubt.

We have never done this and we know very few people who do.  A good surveyor will always do this, but it is difficult to interpret the sounds unless you have a lot of experience.  Really dull thuds are obvious of course.  In the future we would definitely do this.

Scratches or chips in the gelcoat, evidence of filler

Look around for signs of impact or stress on the hull.  Often boats glance off docks or other obstructions and create scratches or chips in the gel-coat.  Tap these small areas closely to ensure no structural damage has occurred.  Most of time there is no problem.

Our boat had filler in many places on the hull above the water line.  Apparently the previous owner(s) were not adept at docking.  The scratches didn’t look like they went beyond the gelcoat so we didn’t think much of it.  In the end we added a bit of cosmetic filler and paint and it was never a problem.  Looking back, we should have checked around these areas just to be sure.  Lucky.

Check around thru-hulls for any indication of damage, failed sealant, corrosion or blockage.  Below water thru-hulls cannot be made of plastic.  This will appear as an insurance issue if it is not ameliorated.

If the boat is still in the travel lift slings, push on the keel from side to side.  If it moves, there is an attachment issue.  Check the joint between the keel and the hull for any cracking or signs of water intrusion.  Look at the front and bottom of the keel for scrapes or damage which may indicate grounding.  If the boat is already on stanchions, stand at the front of the bow and visually line up the keel with the centre line of the boat.  If it is at a slight angle, there may be a problem.

The previous owner lied about grounding our boat.  The lie was only apparent after we checked the front bottom of the keel and found a whole bunch of painted sealant.  I had to grind it all off, fill the area properly and fibreglass over it again.  It wasn’t a big deal, but could have meant structural problems.  The big lesson to us was that seller’s lie, even when they appear to be nice, honest people. 

Shake the rudder back and forth to check how much play is in the bearings. It should barely move.  Have somebody on deck turn the wheel or tiller from side to side.  Examine how the rudder moves.  If there is a skeg, check the joint between the skeg and the hull.  Shake the skeg.  Tap the rudder with a small hammer and listen for dull thuds, which indicate water intrusion.  It is quite common for rudders to be water-logged, which can deteriorate the bond between rudder core and support tangs.  The movement of the tiller or wheel should be smooth and easy.  Is the steering mechanism hydraulic or cable and gear?  Check the condition of the hydraulic ram seals or the steel cable, gear and cable clamps.

We took our rudder off just to be sure and found the rudder post tube was in good condition.  So we put it all back on and replaced the stainless steel wire and wire clamps. 

Winches should sound like Swiss watches ticking when you slowly turn them.  When were the winches last serviced?  Do they have winch covers (this will prevent salt and grime entering them when they are not being used).  How warn is the drum?  Check all winches.

When we took apart our winches we found they were full of somebody’s long black hair.  Ouch and yuck.  After cleaning them thoroughly they ticked so much smoother.  Winch maintenance should be done annually, but don’t be at all surprised if it is never done at all.  It’s not a hard job and requires almost no materials.  If they barely turn at all, then it is a much larger problem and winches are shockingly, like cosmic jokingly, expensive to replace.

Check cracking in the deck around the grab rails.  Pull hard on the grab rails and note any deck deflection or movement of the rail itself.  Check the fastener connection for indication of water intrusion through the fastener hole into the deck.  Tap around the grab rails especially carefully for signs of water intrusion or damage.

Our grab rails were leaking into the deck and we had to rebed them.  We took the opportunity to sand them down and apply oil rather than varnish, which requires less maintenance.

Check the life lines for signs of damage.  Check carefully at the connection between the steel cable and the turnbuckle.  If the lines are coated in plastic, check for cracking in the plastic and signs of rust.  Stainless steel will rust under plastic sheathed life lines and you might want to consider replacing them if they are more than 10 years old.

We had plastic sheathed life lines and the stainless wire was starting to rust .  We replaced them with straight stainless wire.  We reused the turnbuckles.  Swaging is costly if you don’t do it yourself and the fix ended up costing around $800.

Check sealant around the windows or discoloration, discontinuity or cracking.  Is there any water staining on the inside of the cabin around the windows and hatches?

We replaced all the windows and hatches on our current boat.  They were completely crazed and we could barely see through them.  We went with plexiglass instead of Lexan because it was so much cheaper and doesn’t craze.  But it is less strong, and we upped the thickness to make up the difference in some places.  Bedding hatches and windows is messy and stressful.  Check for sealant compatibility with different plastics.  The best ones we know of are DOW 795 and GE Silicone II.

Check all thru-decks (especially hatches) for signs of cracking or water intrusion.  When were the thru-decks last replaced?

Every thru-deck on our boat leaked.  We didn’t really check them that closely when we surveyed the boat and it took two years to get all of the leaks sorted out.  Many had been leaking for a decade or more and had caused significant rot.  We had never tapped the deck with a hammer before we bought the boat and decided to do it before we outfitted it for a big trip.  We used a pencil to mark areas that thudded.  By the end, more than 30% of our deck was covered in pencil marks.  I freaked out and immediately started looking on Yachtworld for another boat.  A friend who owns a boatyard came by and took a look.  He said, ‘no big deal’ this looks like the deck of lots of old boats.’  It took us a month of straight work to tear up the top layer of deck, replace the core and fibreglass over it again.  It cost us about 1000 dollars in materials, but we did all the work ourselves.  Thankfully Fiona is a wizard with bondo and you’d never know the deck had been refurbished.  It’s better to find a deck without soft spots, but may not be possible.  Note the extent and consider the time to fix it, or just live with it.  At any rate, you’ll want to fix the leaks so they don’t get any worse.

Chainplates

Pull laterally on the stays and shrouds close to where they connect to the chainplates.  Note any deflection.  Check where the chainplate enters the deck or bolts onto the hull.  Is there any cracking or discoloration?  Is the metal in good condition?

We saw a ramp bead of silicone around the perimeter of the chainplate above deck.  It suggested the previous owner may have thought they were leaking.  We have also heard that people do this as a preventative measure so it might also just be good boat maintenance.

Soft spots in the deck will appear as areas that deflect when you weight them or as dull thuds when you tap them with a small hammer.  They indicate degradation of the core material and should be carefully investigated. Tap over the whole deck with a 4oz. hammer or similar and listen for the sound it makes.  Dull thuds indicate water intrusion.  Is the deck cored?  What is the core material?  Get somebody to lightly bounce in different areas of the deck and take note of any deflection.

We had tonnes.  See thru-decks.

Walk the deck and check for signs of cracking.  Especially check at the chainplates, mast and forestay.  Large cracks can indicate stress and deformation of the deck.  Small cracks, called spider cracks, are common in the gelcoat of older boats and do not necessarily represent a problem.

Our boat looks like a spider web in some places.  We’ve learned to live with it.

Mast electrical

Check where the wires exit the mast and enter the boat for signs of water leaks.  If it is a deck stepped mast, there will be holes in the deck to allow for the electrical wires.  Does all the mast electrical work?  Try each light and make sure you can see it working.  Rewiring a mast is a big pain.

We rewired our mast when it was taken off for re-rigging.  We replaced all the lights at the same time.  It was relatively straight forward, but remember do not pull out all the wires without leaving in a messenger line or some way of pulling new wire through. 

Shrouds and stays

It’s scary but it’s a good idea to go up the mast and check the shrouds and stays for any signs of damage.  Most often the damage will be where the stainless steel wire connects to the turnbuckle.  The turnbuckle might have a hairline crack in it, or you’ll see a broken strand or two of wire.

I climbed the mast of our boat while it was swaying around on a mooring.  It had mast steps, which made it easier, but I was still pretty nervous.  I don’t even remember looking at the shroud or stays, as I moved through 12 feet of arc at the top of the mast.  I just came back down and told Fiona they looked fine.  Maybe they did.

Lines and sheets

Check the condition of the running gear.  Is it worn or stiff?  Stiff rope can often be soaked into suppleness, but chafed line needs to be replaced.  Is there spare line onboard?

We replaced all the running rigging slowly over time.  It is a maintenance cost.  Luckily there was a lot of spare line onboard and we saved a bundle as a result.

Check the binnacle compass. If there is an air bubble, the seal has failed moderately and may eventually need to be replaced.  Is the compass adjustable for the magnetic elements on the boat?

Check the age of the antennae and turn on the VHF to make sure they work.

It’s usually not practical unless you are sailing to haul up a sail, but get as a good look as you can at them.  Chafe, holes, patches or other repairs usually indicate that the sail has been around a long time.  Also, its stiffness is a good indicator of its age.  A really supple sail is probably old and tired and will need replacing soon.

We had super bagged out sails that we used for a couple of years of cruising.  We weren’t the fastest boat, but we were fine.  It’s amazing how long you can keep a sail going.  We replaced the sails when we decided to cross an ocean.  Having a sail tear out there was too scary a thought and we realized that performance over 10 000 miles actually matters.

Check the size and pitch of the propeller.  Is it appropriate for the boat?  You can check online with a propeller calculator.  It is shocking how many mis-sized props there are on boats.  They are expensive and can be finicky to replace.

Our prop was too big and overloaded the engine causing it to overheat.  We had to replace the prop.

Propeller shaft and strut

Put the engine in neutral and spin the propeller.  Check the trueness of the shaft.  Shake the shaft back and forth, is there much play in the cutlass bearing?  When was the bearing last replaced?  Shake the strut back and forth, does it move?

We replaced our cutlass bearing, which required have to be sawing it out of the tube.  This actually is a normal way to do it.  It was a little scary sawing away, but if you go slowly and carefully it isn’t hard. 

Is there water in the bilge?  Can you see the tops of the keel bolts?  What do the bilge pump and hose look like?  Is there any visible deformation or cracking

The previous owner had changed the engine oil into the bilge a few times.  There was a lot of water in the bilge and the bilge pump didn’t work.  It took Fiona a whole day to clean it out properly.  We bought a new bilge pump and replumbed it. It ended up costing around $300.  The bilge pump needs to be secured as well, or it may be an insurance issue.

Ask the owner when the keel bolts were last checked and research how the keel bolts are attached to the keel.  Is it a lead keel, or iron.  Are the bolts thru-bolted or are they cast in place.  What type of metal is the keel bolt?  Keel bolts are not often replaced, but it is a good idea to check them at least every ten years.  Some recommend replacement as well.  It is often a very difficult job to check/replace keel bolts, so approach this with a grain of salt.  There may be nothing you can do in the survey, but it could become a bargaining point later.

Our keel bolts were leaking and we kept getting water in the bilge and rust stains down the side of the keel where the bolts exited.  We took our keel bolts out one by one and rebedded them.  The whole job took three weeks.  Not for the faint of heart.

Water staining

Check around the interior of the boat for water stains.  Especially on the underside of chainplate connections, hatches and windows and any thru-deck location.

We had a little water staining at first glance, but that was only because the owner had cleaned it up before we came to look at the boat. It took us a year to stop all the leaks.  See thru-decks.

Rust and corrosion

Check metal fittings for signs of rust or corrosion.

We had a lot of ferrous metal we had to remove.  The wire clamps for the steering assembly were just little balls or rust and I had to cut them off with a zip cut.  It was further proof to us that the previous owner was not maintaining the boat well.

Operate each thru-hull to make sure it works.  Check for corrosion and hose connections.  The thru-hull hose connection should have two gear clamps.  If the thru-hull is stuck do not crank it very hard.

Only one of our thru-hulls didn’t work and we had to replace it.  The effluent thru-hull appeared not to work, but with the application of some cleaner and oil we got it moving again.  We have heard of surveyors breaking thru-hulls and having to call the owner to let them know their boat is sinking.

Where possible check the connection between bulk heads and the hull/deck.  If the bulkhead is out of place, it suggests a major collision or other deformation of the hull/deck.

Check the underside of the chainplates for signs of water intrusion and corrosion.  A chainplate issue can be a big deal, so if in doubt seek professional advice.

One of our chainplates was leaking, which we noticed as a brownish stain on the inside of the cabin top.  The bedding sealant had degraded over 35 years of life and needed to be replaced.  We rebed all the chainplates when we took the mast off for re-rigging.  It was one of the easiest jobs on the boat.  It would have been a different story if we noted any corrosion in the chainplate.  This is a big issue and may require the involvement of a professional.

Does it work?  Does it smell?

Check the connection above and below deck of the mast.  For a deck stepped mast, check the top and bottom of the compression post as well.  Lift the sole panels and actually visually inspect where the compression post of the mast connects to the keel and to the deck.  Feel around for rot or corrosion.  The same goes for a keel stepped mast.  Check where it connects to the keel and where it passes through the deck for signs of leaking or corrosion.

We found one boat with bad corrosion of the keel stepped mast.  The aluminum on the iron of the keel had begun to break down.  It required having to pull the mast and make significant repair.  That’s a big job and we walked away from the boat.

Locker doors

Do the locker doors all open and shut?  If not, it could suggest a deformation of the hull or deck and should be investigated further.

Interior woodwork

Is the interior wood work in good condition.

Sanding interior wood work is a pain.  Floor boards are quite expensive.  To replace the floor on our Dufour 35 would have cost 2k.  We have lived with ugly, partly rotten floor boards as a result.

Upholstery and cushions

In what condition is the upholstery.  Do you like the color?  Is the cushion foam firm/comfortable?

Replacing cushions is terribly expensive.  We learned to live with a color we didn’t like and reused the cushions when we reupholstered.  Budget anywhere from $1000-$4000 for new cushions.

Does it have a shower or hot water? Do they work?  How old is the hot water heater?  Where does the shower drain?

Depending on your location you may very well want a heater to keep the boat warm at times.  They can be very expensive and require additional fuel lines, not to mention an exhaust port or chimney.  They can run up to $1000 pretty quickly.

Check the suppleness of the hoses.  Check the connections for signs of leaks and deterioration.  Older hoses should be replaced.

How many hours does the engine have?  Was it rebuilt?

Cleanliness

How clean is the engine?  A clean engine means the owner appears to be maintaining it well.  It is also easier to spot any leaks or other issues.  Can you smell oil or diesel?

Spare parts

What kind of spares come with the engine?  Spares can be pretty expensive so a list of spares is a boon, it also shows the owner is maintaining the boat well.

If the engine is freshwater cooled, check the heat exchanger zincs.

We have met a few boat owners who are not changing their heat exchanger zincs, which can lead to a breakdown of the exchanger rods.  If the rods start leaking the heat exchanger will need to be replaced.  There is also a risk of getting saltwater mixed in with the coolant and causing damage to the engine.

Check the batteries.  Are their signs of terminal corrosion or dried powder on the tops of the batteries?  How old are the batteries?  How many amp hours is the battery bank?  Is there room for additional batteries?

Check the wiring behind the AC and DC panels.  Does it look neat and tidy?  Are the connections done properly?  How old are the panels?  Do individual breakers have multiple connections to them?

We had to replace our DC electrical panel to make room for additional electrical systems.  At the time we found the previous owner had not done any connections properly so we redid them all. It is relatively easy to do and doesn’t take long.  We were really intimidated by redoing the electrical but it turned into our favorite job on the boat.  Fiona is an electrical wizard now.

Check the type of lights.  Are they LED or fluorescent or incandescent?  LED lights can be pricey, figure $10 per bulb.  Make sure all the lights work.  If some don’t it could indicate a larger electrical problem.

Electronics

What electronics are on board?  Do they all work?  How old are they?  Do they network with each other, ie. radar and gps, depth sounder and gps?  Is there a functioning wind speed indicator?

Additional items

Ask about some important additional items, namely; dinghy, barbecue, anchors, fenders, dodger/bimini, winch covers, additional sails, solar panels, radar arch , wind generator, life vests, engine spares.

Here’s a quick boat survey checklist worksheet to take with you on your next boat inspection: Boat survey worksheet

Robin was born and raised in the Canadian North. His first memory of travel on water was by dogsled across a frozen lake. After studying environmental science and engineering he moved to Vancouver aboard a 35’ sailboat with his partner, Fiona, with the idea to fix up the boat and sail around the world. He has written for several sailing publications including SAIL, Cruising World, and was previously a contributing editor at Good Old Boat.

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DIY Survey Checklist for Used-Boat Buying

Before hiring a professional surveyor, look for these danger signs..

Boat buying is an exciting, maddening exercise that can test the tolerance of even the most patient sailor. Much of the maddening part has to do with trying to ferret out a boat’s problems before buying (and making them your own). Obviously, you should consult a reputable surveyor prior to purchase, but who can afford to have every promising boat surveyed?

The easiest way to narrow down the list of potential deals is by doing your own pre-survey inspection. Below are some of the major areas of boat inspection any buyer would want to become intimate with, as well as some common problems associated with each.

As the single most expensive piece of gear onboard, the engine deserves particular scrutiny. It is a hard lesson to learn that after purchasing that deal of a lifetime, the boat requires an engine rebuild or replacement.

How an engine looks can offer valuable clues about its overall condition. That’s not to say a shiny, seemingly new engine will be trouble free, but if it’s a real mess on the outside, chances are the owner hasn’t exactly been a stickler for regularly scheduled maintenance.

Start by looking for obvious problems such as leaks, excessive rust, broken or missing components, and other signs of neglect. For freshwater-cooled systems, check the coolant level and properties. Lack of antifreeze should raise red flags (due to possible leaks) as should coolant with a rusty color or an unusual amount of solids.

A lot can be told by simply pulling the dipstick and checking the oil. A slightly low level might be OK, but higher than normal levels could indicate trouble, particularly if milky or frothy; both are an indication that water, antifreeze, or transmission fluid is present, signs you could be facing anything from a blown gasket to a cracked block.

Rub a little engine oil between your fingers. If it feels abrasive or has a burnt odor, be concerned about bearing wear; however, it could also simply mean the oil hasn’t been changed regularly. Wipe the dipstick on a clean white cloth or napkin. Oil thats thick initially, but then starts to spread out over the cloth is an indication of fuel contamination.

Taking oil samples to a lab for testing is a more scientific way to analyze oil condition, but it’s normally most useful in tracking issues over the engine’s lifetime, rather than for spot-checking. Still, a one-shot oil analysis can show unusual wear and the presence of water, antifreeze or diesel fuel. Think of it as a blood test for the engine—it may not predict a heart attack but it can indicate the high cholesterol that could lead to engine failure.

As for transmissions and reduction gears, dark and sluggish fluid or oil with a burned smell may indicate drive cone problems and a costly rebuild in the near future. After running the engine in gear a bit, use the dipstick to get a transmission fluid sample. Put this on a piece of paper and inspect it under a bright light or in direct sunlight for metallic specks—a sign of significant transmission wear. Inserting a long, thin magnet (the kind mechanics use to retrieve dropped bolts) through the dipstick opening and sweeping the bottom of the gearbox may produce interesting results as well.

Note how difficult the engine is to start. Depending on whether it’s gas or diesel, hard starting could be a sign of weak batteries, faulty plugs or even a bad fuel pump.

Does it run smoothly at idle and under load, or does it idle unevenly and stall out when placed in gear? Rough running can be caused by anything from clogged fuel filters to compression problems, and engines idling at more than 800 rpm may have been intentionally set to idle high to mask problems.

Verify proper oil pressure and operating temperature while the engine is running. Low oil pressure could be due to anything from faulty oil pumps to cam bearing failure. High water temperatures may be something as simple as a bad impeller, but could also be caused by corroded manifolds or exhaust risers.

Finally, read the smoke signals the engine is sending. A well-maintained engine may smoke when initially cranked or while idling, but not when warmed up or under load. Smoke color can also provide an indication of problems (blue for burning oil, black for incomplete combustion, white for water vapor, etc.).

Bottom line: Remember that hour meters mean nothing (they can easily be swapped out by an unscrupulous seller) and that an owner should eagerly provide invoices if claiming overhauls or major work has been done. Engines are a big-ticket item, so always weigh the cost of repair or replacement versus walking away.

Water intrusion into cored decking likely causes more boat damage every year than sinkings, groundings and fires combined. Cored construction simply describes an inner and outer skin of fiberglass with some other material sandwiched between them. Most decks will be cored, typically with end-grain balsa, plywood or maybe one of the more high-tech foam variations.

The prime directive with cored construction is keeping water out. Wet wood coring can rot, which allows the cored deck to separate and drastically reduces its structural integrity. Long-term water exposure causes problems with foam-cored decks as well—core separation, freeze damage (due to expansion and contraction) and even disintegration in some cases.

Moisture intrusion into cored decking is typically caused by a combination of failed caulking and improper installation of deck-mounted hardware (cleats, lifeline stanchions, winches, etc.). Any penetration into a cored panel must be properly sealed to prevent water entry and the damage it can cause.

The first step (literally) in finding deck problems can be as simple as walking on the suspicious spots. Soft spots, oil-canning (flexing) or even water squishing from deck fittings are all indicators of a potentially expensive repair. Drips and brownish stains belowdecks are also common signs of water-soaked decks and rotting core.

Sound out the decks by tapping them with a small, plastic-headed hammer or the end of screwdriver handle. Sharp, crisp sounds while tapping are what you want, while dull thuds can be an indication of delamination. Moisture meters are also a helpful tool for sniffing out soggy decks—we reviewed our favorites here . Make sure to check out the updated moisture meter recommendations from our knowledgable commenters there as well.

Repair options are based on the core’s condition, which is determined by taking a core sample (ideally by drilling a small hole in an inconspicuous place from the inside) and looking for moisture or rot. If the coring is rotten or damaged, it must be replaced. If wet, but not damaged and there is no delamination, attempts to dry out the core can be made. Just keep in mind that it is very difficult to remove all water and that any remaining moisture will likely cause future problems. Core replacement is the only sure cure.

Bottom line: While repair costs will be directly related to the size of the delaminated area, even a minor core replacement is a time-consuming project. If faced with a large amount of deck repair, move on to the next boat or be prepared to expend a significant amount of time, money, and effort to make it right.

STANDING RIGGING

Most sailors immediately think wire when they hear the term standing rigging, but that’s only one part of the story. Your pre-survey inspection should encompass several different components, from chainplates and turnbuckles to cotter pins and terminal ends. Here are three primary standing rigging components along with possible issues to watch out for.

Wire : Broken yarns or strands (aka fishhooks) are a clear indication that rigging wire is nearing the end of its service life, even if the other strands appear good. You can check for broken strands by wrapping toilet paper around the wire and carefully running it up and down while looking for snags or shredding of the paper.

Nicks and scratches that affect multiple strands or one strand deeply should also be noted as possible cause for replacement, as should kinks, flat spots, proud strands and corrosion, particularly where the wire enters a swage fitting.

Floppy shrouds or stays should also be inspected to determine the cause of the looseness, which can indicate anything from a much-needed rig tune-up to a failed mast step.

Terminal fittings : Of the various wire terminal fittings found on sailboats, swage fittings are the most common source of terminal failures.

Each should be checked carefully for signs of fatigue, proud strands (a common indication of broken strands in the swage), cracks and corrosion. A small, handheld magnifying glass can be very helpful during this inspection. Pay close attention to lower terminals, which are particularly susceptible to corrosion as a result of salt-laden water running down the wire and inside the fitting.

Bent or banana-shaped fittings (the result of improper compression of the fitting onto the wire) are also items of concern that will need to be addressed.

Chainplates : Chainplates should be checked carefully for issues such as movement, rust, cracks, deformation of the clevis pin hole and improper lead angle. Chainplates that penetrate the deck will often leak (due to movement and/or caulking failure), and the damage this causes, both to the interior of the vessel and the chainplate itself, can be significant.

Where chainplates are bolted to a bulkhead or other interior structure, look for discoloration, delamination and rot due to water intrusion. Chainplates can also be compromised due to crevice corrosion, even though the metal above and below the deck appears to be in excellent condition. Crevice corrosion occurs when stainless steel is continually exposed to stagnant, anaerobic water, such as that found in a saturated wood or cored deck. This is one reason why chainplates that are glassed in or otherwise inaccessible for routine inspection are undesirable.

Bottom line : While the life expectancy of wire rigging is determined by a myriad of factors (where the vessel is located, type of stainless, amount of use, etc.), the general rule of thumb is that it should be replaced every eight to ten years, sooner if extenuating circumstances such as offshore passages, extended cruising, racing, etc, are in the mix. While an owner may offer assurances or hazy recollections of rigging replacement, unless these improvements are properly documented, the best policy is to assume the rigging is original and plan your purchase strategy accordingly.

While steel hulls rust and wood hulls rot, blisters are what make a fiberglass boat owner’s hair stand on end. The Cliffs Notes version of how blisters form is simple: Water-soluble chemicals inside the laminate exert an osmotic pull on water molecules outside the hull, drawing them through the gelcoat. Once inside, the water molecules and soluble chemicals join to create a solution with larger molecules that are unable to pass back though the gelcoat. As water molecules continue to enter, pressure increases to the point that the gelcoat is pushed outward, forming a blister.

Some makes and models seem to be more susceptible to blistering than others (presumably due to factors ranging from resins used to layup schedules), but all fiberglass boats are at some risk. Location also plays a factor in some cases (i.e. relocating a vessel from cool to tropical waters, fresh to salt, etc).

The best time to spot blisters is just after the boat is hauled, preferably after the hull has been power washed and is still wet. Blisters can depressurize in a matter of hours once the vessel is hauled (minutes in some cases), making them all but impossible to spot (something to consider if inspecting a boat thats been hauled for a while).

Blisters will typically appear as circular bumps or dome-like protrusions while sighting along the hull. Sometimes water trapped between the bottom paint and gelcoat forms bumps that can be mistaken for blisters. With the owners permission, try pressing a suspected blister with a rubber gloved finger (wear goggles, as they can be under considerable pressure). If the fluid that comes out has a chemical smell, chances are it’s a blister.

Although hull blisters are often viewed with much dread, finding one or two blisters on an older vessel is no more serious than the occasional gouge to the hull. In these cases, spot treatment of individual blisters as they occur (grinding out to good material, barrier coating, and filling in and fairing with a suitable epoxy mixture) will normally suffice.

Far worse is the dreaded pimple rash or boat pox, where the entire bottom is covered with hundreds or thousands of blisters. Repairs in this case can involve removal of the entire gelcoat and the outermost skin-out mat to reach good laminate, then adding additional laminate to return the hull to original strength. It’s an expensive repair that many yards will gladly perform, but rarely guarantee will prevent future blister formation.

Bottom line: Although rarely structurally significant, blisters may very well have a negative impact on a vessels resale value, depending on the knowledge and perceptions of a potential buyer.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

After years of additions, removals, misguided MacGyver-like installations, and overall abuse, probably no other system harbors greater potential for starting a fire on a used boat than the electrical system. This is just one reason both DC and AC systems deserve a thorough inspection.

Start with the batteries, which should be located in liquid tight / acid-proof containers (to contain electrolyte spills) and secured against movement (no more than one inch in any direction). Be on the lookout for equipment hard-wired without any fuse directly to the battery (a potential fire hazard) as well as crowded post syndrome (more than four wires connected to a single battery post).

Verify AC wiring is multi-strand, marine grade wire, not residential style, solid strand wire (aka ROMEX). Solid wire is not recommended for use onboard, as it is susceptible to breakage due to vibration. Your inspection should also verify that AC outlets located in the galley, head, machinery spaces, and on all weather decks are protected with ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI), another important safety requirement.

Check the condition of wire runs for both AC and DC systems. They should be neat, well organized and labeled. Problems include unsupported wires, dead ends (cut wires no longer in use), corrosion and lack of chafe protection (especially where wires pass through a bulkhead).

You’ll also want to keep an eye out for electrical tape joints and household twist-on type connectors, two sure signs that a novice has been doing a little weekend electrical work.

Bottom line: If the electrical systems are maxed out or rife with problems, play it safe by getting an estimate to make it right from a competent marine electrician before negotiating with the owner.

The more you know about potential problems and how to spot them, the more comfortable and productive your boat-buying experience will be. While the above inspection list can’t replace the practiced eye of a professional marine surveyor, it can help the average person make an informed decision on whether to pass or pursue the purchase of that potential dream boat.

• Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
• National Association of Marine Surveyors
• “Inspecting the Aging Sailboat,” by Don Casey

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

You made a great point when you said that I should be on the lookout for any boats with some amateurishly fixed wiring. What with how old some used boats can be someone may have thought it better to fix old electrical components themselves rather than hire a professional which could be a potential hazard. I’m buying a boat for our family trips, and since kids will often be on board I wouldn’t want any wiring to stick out and potentially harm them or even worse, start a fire on the boat. Hopefully, I can find a good dealer that will provide me with quality used boats for sale where I won’t have to worry about matters like that.

Thanks for the informative article, Darrell.

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Boat Evaluation Checklist

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Evaluating a boat's condition is essential before purchase. New boaters and boat buyers can use this checklist to make a preliminary evaluation.

Evaluating a boat's condition before purchase makes it easier for the prospective owner to say "good buy" or "good bye" to a deal. Likewise, an objective eye for problems that need to be corrected makes it easier to prepare a boat for sale.

Use the checklist below to make a preliminary evaluation:

• Make copies for each boat you look at
• You may want to keep shopping if your evaluation has more than 10 scores of 2 or under.
• Is it clean?
• Are there signs of rust, hull blisters, peeling paint or varnish, previous repairs, cracks or corrosion?
• Don't forget to check operating gear like winches, steering systems, running and standing rigging on sailboats, lights, head and galley equipment, electronics and instrumentation.
• Start up the engine and take a sea trial.
• Check for compliance with U.S. Coast Guard safety equipment requirements 

This checklist is NOT a substitute for inspections by a competent marine surveyor and a marine engine mechanic. 

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DIY BOAT SURVEY CHECKLIST

The Importance of Pre-Purchase Surveys When Buying a Boat

Buying a boat is an exciting venture, but it's crucial to approach the process with caution and diligence. One of the key steps in ensuring a wise and informed investment is to conduct a pre-purchase survey.

This comprehensive first inspection can be carried out following or template. You will uncover hidden issues, assess safety concerns, and provide valuable insights into the boat's condition.

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1. Identifying Potential Issues:

A pre-purchase survey goes beyond a casual inspection, uncovering hidden problems or defects in the boat. Issues with the hull, engine, electrical systems, plumbing, and other critical components can be identified, preventing unexpected and costly repairs after the purchase.  

2. Ensuring Safety:

Safety is paramount in boating. The survey helps identify any safety concerns or deficiencies that need to be addressed before taking the boat out on the water. This includes structural issues, navigation equipment problems, or inadequacies in safety gear.  

3. Verifying Legal Compliance:

Boats are subject to various regulations and standards. A pre-purchase survey ensures that the boat complies with these regulations, including environmental standards, safety requirements, and proper documentation.  

4. Determining Fair Market Value:

The survey provides an accurate assessment of the boat's condition and fair market value. This information is invaluable during negotiations, preventing buyers from overpaying for a boat with hidden problems.  

5. Meeting Insurance Requirements:

Many insurance companies require a recent survey before providing coverage for a boat. A pre-purchase survey helps meet these requirements and ensures that your investment is adequately protected.  

6. Peace of Mind:

Knowing the condition of the boat and being aware of potential issues provides peace of mind. It allows buyers to make informed decisions, reducing the risk of unexpected problems surfacing after the purchase.  

7. Negotiation Tool:

The survey report serves as a valuable negotiation tool. If issues are identified, buyers can negotiate with the seller to address the problems or adjust the sale price accordingly.  

8. Financial Protection:

Investing in a pre-purchase survey can save buyers money by preventing the purchase of a boat with significant hidden problems. It adds a layer of financial protection to the investment.  

9. Professional Assessment:

Qualified marine surveyors bring their expertise to the table, conducting a thorough inspection and providing a professional assessment. This is particularly important for buyers who may not have extensive knowledge about boat systems and structures.

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Yacht Surveys: The Key Elements

Learn everything you need to know about conducting a yacht survey with our comprehensive guide. Discover key points and detailed checklists for inspecting the hull, deck, rig, engineering, interior, and overall condition of a yacht. Perfect for prospective yacht buyers and owners ensuring their vessel’s safety and reliability.

Key points about a survey

Hull checklist, deck checklist, rig checklist, engineering checklist, inside checklist, general checklist.

If the yacht of your choice is costing a substantial amount then, just like a house purchase, a professional should survey it. If you are buying her second-hand, and borrowing money to purchase her, then the lender may insist on it. The Insurance company may also want sight of the report before confirming the quotation.

TIP: ensure that the surveyor is qualified to survey the construction type of the vessel, and carries third party indemnity insurance.

The surveyor should be qualified to inspect the construction type of your yacht. Not all are. Check if they are members of the International Institute of Marine Surveying ( IIMS ). This is an independent, non-political organisation that lists specialist surveyors and marine consultants in every corner of the globe.

A condition survey provides a professional opinion on the structural condition of visible aspects of the yacht only, and the report should not be considered as a schedule of works, though it will certainly assist those preparing an estimate for repair or refurbishment. Hull condition is assessed using non-destructive methods of examination such as ultrasound and moisture meters, and the report is limited to the sample areas where the substrate paint is scraped away.

The surveyor will note whether the hull has undergone osmosis treatment, but not disturb the epoxy resin coating that has been applied. The readings from the ultrasound and damp meters, coupled with the practical test of tapping suspect areas of the hull, will give an indication to the surveyor whether further exploratory work is required to check for damp, delamination, and voids.

Likewise, the engine and machinery are given a visual inspection only, and the surveyor will limit his report to signs of corrosion, oil and water leaks. The content of tanks are not tested for contaminants unless you specifically ask for this to be done. Water and biological contamination in the fuel tank can be a particular problem.

Hull fastenings keel bolts and bolts securing thru-hull fittings etc – are not drawn out for inspection unless you ask for this to be done. The same applies to the testing of doors, hatches and windows for water tightness.

The report will reflect the experience of the surveyor at looking at similar craft and construction methods. He will know instinctively where damp is likely to lie, where rot or corrosion could be prevalent and where problems are likely to arise in the future. His report will be thorough, have an action plan, and a valuation based not on its replacement cost, but the retail values achieved by yachts of a similar type and condition.

A professional surveyor will not only highlight any structural concerns, and provide a list of items that need attention, but his report will give you peace of mind that problems will not appear later.

If you decide against having a professional survey, here is a checklist to work through.

1 Look at the transom and check the hull identification number.

Does it match the number on the registration document?

2 GRP boats:

Take a small rubber hammer or the handle end of a screwdriver, and tap the hull lightly at short intervals across the whole area of the hull. If there is a sudden change of note, this can indicate osmosis, voids or delamination.

3 Wooden boats:

Check for black discolouration at joints and plank ends. This is a clear sign of the first stage of rot. Use a sharp bradawl to test suspect areas like the garboard strakes for softness – another sign of rot.

4 Does the keel run true to the centreline?

If not, then the yacht will perform better on one tack than the other.

5 Mismatched paint.

This could indicate that the yacht has been damaged in the past. If you were not informed of any repairs, what else have you not have been told about?

6 Does the propeller shaft turn true?

7 Take hold of the prop and check for shaft movement. If there is, this suggests a worn cutlass bearing.

8 Does the propeller have any nicks on the leading edges of the blades? These will lessen its performance.

9 Do any of the bronze fittings show signs of pinkness or pitting?

This is a sign that the boat has suffered from electrolytic action between dissimilar metals (bronze and stainless steel for instance).

10 Check the sacrificial anodes close to the prop shaft and rudder for signs of pitting. Do they need to be replaced?

Damp meter readings at regular points around the hull provide the best indication of the porosity of the gel coat or paint system. Non-invasive testing. The surveyor will scrape away small sections of paintwork at regular intervals around the hull to check for any breakdown in the gel coat. This yacht had already undergone extensive osmosis treatment, but pin holes through the epoxy coating were clearly visible.

Rudder bearings, especially those where bronze castings connect to a stainless steel rudder stock, can be badly affected by electrolysis. Often, the only way to check is to scrape away the paintwork.

The bow-thruster impeller can suffer wear, and if the gap between the blade tips and tunnel is large, then its performance will be considerably reduced. Check also that the bearings are not worn or loose.

Read also: Anatomy of a Boat Cost and Recommendations for a Profitable Sale

The same applies to the P -bracket and propeller. If there is any sign of “pinkness” within the bronze fittings – and this will be most prevalent on the tips of the Boat Propellers – Types and Technical Characteristics propeller blades – then electrolytic action has occurred and the metal will be severely weakened.

The deck takes a good deal of wear and tear and provides a good indication of the yacht’s overall condition.

1 Walk around the decks checking for soft spots and investigate.

2 Check that the pushpit, pulpit, toe rail and deck fittings are secure and without the telltale signs of rust or rot around their base.

3 Check the stanchions for excessive movement. This could indicate a collision in the past.

4 Check the shroud plates are secure and not leaking. They may need to be re-bedded.

5 Check for telltale signs of cracking around chain plates and other highly stressed fittings.

6 Wooden boats: Check for rot wherever fresh water can lie – the cockpit corners, the hatch area, and scuppers etc.

7 Teak decking: Is the planking badly pitted around the grain. This indicates that it has been pressure washed.

8 Is the caulking sound or are there cracks along the edge of some planks that let in water?

9 Have dowel holes lost their cappings? Teak decks are very expensive to replace.

10 Check around hatches and windows. Are there water stains inside? If so, these will need to be re-bedded.

11 Winches: do they turn easily? Do the ratchet pawls stick? These may need to be serviced.

Gas installation. Check for perished tubing and leaky connections. EU regulations insist that gas lockers must drain outboard of the hull.

Teak decks look wonderful when new, but require considerable care and attention. Check that the caulking is sound and screw dowels are not starting to lift. A power washer does the greatest damage to the deck, and the tell-tale sign is bad pitting between lines of grain.

Winches should be checked for corrosion and wear. Are all the pawls in place and do they spring out satisfactorily?

Hatch rubbers perish after time and then let water in. A visual inspection will show up any problems, but it is good to aim a hose pipe over them and the cabin windows, and check for any water ingress.

The rig requires a thorough check because potential failings are not always easy to spot.

1 Check halyards and sheets for sign of chafe.

2 Check rigging and swages for signs of damage, bending and broken strands. If any of the 1/19 wire within the shrouds are broken, all standing rigging should be condemned unless there is recent proof of purchase of any replacements.

3 Check blocks for wear.

4 Are there any signs of corrosion on the alloy mast and booms?

5 Are the fittings secure?

6 Does the furling gear and reefing systems work easily?

7 Check the rubber collar waterproofing the joint between mast and deck. Is it waterproof?

8 Sails: Do they show signs of chafe? Check the spreader/corner patches as well as batten pockets for loose stitching. Plan to have them washed and serviced.

The rig must be checked thoroughly. Insurance companies will often insist that standing rigging more than 10 years old should be replaced as a matter of course.

All mast fittings must be checked for wear, especially highly stressed areas like the boom gooseneck and spinnaker pole connectors. Check also for any signs of corrosion on the spars which may be caused through electrolytic action between dissimilar metals.

The rubber gaiter waterproofing where the mast goes through the deck can also perish over time. Check for tell-tale splits in the rubber.

Sails need to be checked for signs of wear and tear. The main headboard and sliders take a lot of punishment, but you should also check for signs of fraying around batten pockets and the corners of each sail.

Engines require regular maintenance to remain reliable. The state of the engine room and ancillary fittings provide a good indicator.

1 Does the engine have good water flow through it?

2 Check belts and hoses for cracks or wear. Rubber deteriorates quite quickly in a salty environment.

3 Check the oil in engine and transmission and rub a drop between your fingers. Can you feel any grit?

4 What is the colour? If it is grey or cream a water leak could have emulsified the oil.

5 How does it smell: burned? That is a sign of overheating. If in doubt, send a sample to a laboratory for testing.

6 Does the transmission shift easily or does it clunk?

7 Check for debris in the water strainers and pumps.

8 Test the seacocks to make sure they open and close.

9 Is the steering free and easy?

10 Check the electronic instruments, batteries and electrics, testing lights and pumps in turn.

11 Boat Outboard Motors Outboard motors :

• Does it start easily?
• Look for excessive corrosion under the cover and around the prop.
• Check that the tilt mechanism works properly.

Check all sink fittings in turn for tell-tale signs of weeping that they operate correctly.

Batteries are expensive to replace. All yachts should have two batteries – one for ship’s electrics, and one for Inboard and Outboard Engines starting the engine . Test the batteries for capacity and charge retention.

Check the oil in both the engine and gearbox. Any opaqueness or milkiness is a sure sign that there is a water leak somewhere. Does the oil smell ‘burnt’? Rub some between your finger tips to check if the oil is carrying any deposits.

Look for signs of rust and weeping water around the engine. If you can’t get a clear view, try to point a digital camera at the area and inspect the photographs for signs of corrosion and leaks.

Pull out the electrics panel and look for signs of wiring repairs. Check wiring runs beneath the floor and look for corrosion and any sign of ‘blackness’ at wiring ends. This will suggest that the wiring has been immersed at some point in the past.

If only all engines had this much access around them. This installation aboard a Hallberg-Rassy yacht simplifies inspection and servicing considerably.

The insides of a yacht will provide clues to past history, repairs and potential problems.

1 Is there a musty smell? This could indicate a leakage, water damage or general neglect.

2 Check the bilges for signs of damage or repair.

3 Wood, Aluminum and John Boats Wooden boats : Check each frame for cracking. These will need doublers to strengthen them.

4 Are there any waterlines inside the boat? Look for rust lines around the hull sides and engine. These indicate that the boat took on water or has been flooded in the past. Another give-away will be any wiring run below these waterlines. Disconnect their connections and check to see if the copper wiring has gone black.

5 Floors and bearers: Any sign of rot?

6 Are the handrails secure?

7 Is the upholstery in good shape?

1 Check maintenance records for evidence of regular servicing. Look for recurring problems.

2 Contact previous owner(s) and ask about the boat.

3 Check the brokerage columns online and in magazines to determine value range for model and year.

What state are the cushions in? Is there a smell of mustiness below? What state is the finish on the floors, treads and furnishings? These checks will give a good indication on whether the yacht has been well looked after.

Pull the floorboards up and check for water in the bilge or waterlines that might suggest that the boat has been flooded in the past. Are the wooden bearers sound? Is anything loose in the bilge?

Hand rails take a severe amount of abuse in rough weather as the crew swing from one to another. Are they secure or is there movement when you try to waggle them? On older boats, these often need attention.

Look in all the nooks and crannies for signs of repair to the hull and water seepage. If you find an obvious repair and the owner has not mentioned it, what else may not have been disclosed?

However unsavoury, don rubber gloves and check out all the pipes, pumps and stopcocks connecting the toilet, sink and shower stall. If problems are hidden, this is where you are most likely to find them.

The galley invariably gets the most wear and tear. Check that the gas connections to the cooker and fridge are safe, the water pumps work satisfactorily and that water drains freely from the sink.

• Cruising World, Subscription Service Dept., P. O. Box 953, Farmingdale, NY 11737.
• Motor Boating & Sailing, P. O. Box 10075, Des Moines, IA 50350.
• Multi-hulls, 421 Hancock St., N. Quincy, MA 02171-9981.
• Nautical Quarterly, 373 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016.
• Sail Magazine, P. O. Box 10210, Des Moines, IA 50336.
• Sailing, P. O. Box 248, Port Washington, WI 53704.
• Small Boat Journal, P. O. Box 400, Bennington, VT 05201.
• Soundings, Soundings Publications, Inc., Pratt Street, Essex, CT 06426.
• The Practical Sailor, Subscription Dept., P. O. Box 971, Farmingdale, NY 11737.
• Wooden Boat, Subscription Dept., P. O. Box 956, Farming-dale, NY 11737.
• Yacht Racing/Cruising, North American Building, 401 North Broad Street, Philadelphia, PA 19108.
• Yachting, P. O. Box 2704, Boulder, CO 80321.
• Beiser, Arthur. The Proper Yacht, 2nd ed. Camden, Maine: International Publishing Co., 1978.
• Chapman, Charles F. Piloting, Seamanship and Small Boat Handling, 56th ed. New York: Hearst Marine Books, 1983.
• Coles, Adlard. Heavy Weather Sailing, 3rd rev. ed. Clinton Corners, N.Y.: John De Graff, Inc., 1981.
• Pardey, Lin and Larry. Cruising in Seraffyn and Seraffyn’s Mediterranean Adventure (W. W. Norton, 1981).
• Roth, Hal. After 50 000 Miles (W. W. Norton, 1977) and Two Against Cape Horn (W. W. Norton, 1968).
• Royce, Patrick M. Royce’s Sailing Illustrated, 8th ed. Ventura, Calif.: Western Marine Enterprises, Inc., 1979.
• Kinney, Francis S. Skene’s Elements of Yacht Design, 8th ed. New York: Dodd, Mead, 1981.
• Street, Donald M., Jr. The Ocean Sailing Yacht, Vols. I and II. New York: W. W. Norton, 1973, 1978.

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Boat Inspection Checklist

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Thoroughly inspecting all systems and components of a boat is crucial for identifying issues early and keeping passengers safe. This comprehensive boat inspection checklist goes beyond the basics to cover critical details buyers, owners, and marine surveyors should verify.

Key Takeaways

Exterior inspection, cabin inspection, propulsion & mechanical systems, safety & required gear, sailboat rigging inspection.

• Inspect the hull for cracks, blisters, soft spots, and mismatched paint indicating repairs. Tap the hull to listen for voids.
• Check engine components like oil , belts, hoses, filters fuel system, compression. Start and run the engine to check for issues.
• Examine electrical wiring, connections, batteries, switches and bilge pumps for corrosion and damage.
• Operate all plumbing components and check hoses, clamps, pumps and through-hulls for leaks.
• Confirm safety equipment like fire extinguishers, flares, PFDs are USCG approved and in working order.
• For sailboats, inspect sails, standing rigging, mast, boom and lines for wear, corrosion and proper operation.
• Address identified issues promptly to maintain safety and optimal performance.

Hull – Check for cracks, blisters, soft spots, scrapes, distortion, and corrosion. Tap the hull to detect voids. Look for mismatched paint that indicates repairs.

Keel – Verify it runs straight and has no damage or wear.

Deck – Look for cracks, soft spots, leaks, deterioration of hardware attachments.

Helm Station – Ensure steering operates smoothly and gauges work accurately.

Joints – Examine hull-to-deck joints for separation gaps that can allow leaks.

Through-Hull Fittings – Check for leaks at all through-hulls. Make sure they are secure.

Moisture – Look for discoloration or corrosion that indicates water intrusion.

Finish – Check for damaged or faded gelcoat, cracking or peeling paint.

Hardware – Confirm deck hardware like cleats and rails are securely fastened.

Hatches/Ports – Verify all are watertight with no leaks. Make sure latches work properly.

Upholstery – Look for mold, mildew, stains, tears, sagging, or broken hardware underneath.

Bilges – Check for water intrusion, leaks, oil sheen, and odors. Operate bilge pump(s).

Wiring – Look for corrosion, chafed insulation, loose connections, heat damage.

Woodwork – Inspect for softness, rot, cracking, delamination.

Plumbing – Operate all faucets, showers, toilets, pumps. Check hoses, clamps, tanks, and through-hulls for leaks.

Galley – Test stove, fridge, sinks. Make sure appliances are secured.

Ventilation – Verify natural airflow or powered vents work to avoid fumes.

Safety Gear – Confirm easy access and proper storage of flares, fire extinguishers, first aid kit.

Engine – Check oil, fuel filters, belts, hoses, compressor, leaks. Start and run engine, note noises or smoke.

Gauges – Confirm accurate readings for volts, temp, pressure, fuel level, rpm.

Gearcase – Check for cracks, leaks, loose mounts. No excessive play on output shaft.

Propeller – Look for bent, cracked, pitted blades. Make sure it is secured properly.

Steering – Operate throttle and steering through full range. Smooth and easy turns.

Controls – Test gearshift(s), throttle functions. Cables and linkages move freely.

Exhaust – Check for leaks at manifold, riser, and through-hull. No obstructions.

Fuel System – Operate fill, vent, supply lines. Look for leaks, corrosion, debris.

Electrical – Check condition of wiring, connections, batteries, switches, bilge pumps.

AC/DC Power – Inspect charger, invertor, outlets, panels for corrosion and function.

PFDs – Confirm one wearable USCG approved PFD per passenger. Inspect condition.

Throwable Device – Have at least one USCG approved throwable flotation aid.

Fire Extinguishers – Verify proper type, size, quantity and charge level.

Visual Distress Signals – Have current day and night signals (flares, flag, lights).

Sound Device – Test horn or whistle for audible signal.

Navigation Lights – Plugged in, operable, and properly aligned.

Registration – Have valid registration paperwork on board. Display numbers properly.

Safety Labels – Ensure capacity, emissions, fuel data placards are legible.

Other – Check for paddle, anchor and line, first aid kit, bailing device.

Mast/Boom – Check for cracks, corrosion, and proper attachment to the deck.

Standing Rigging – Inspect wire shrouds and stays for wear, broken strands, swaged fittings.

Running Rigging – Check halyards, sheets, control lines for chafe, fraying, and proper operation.

Winches – Confirm smooth operation, no slippage or grinding.

Sails – Look for ripped seams, UV damage, securing hardware, proper reefing.

This expanded and comprehensive boat inspection checklist will help identify issues early so they can be addressed promptly, keeping all passengers safe and the boat performing optimally.

Following this thorough boat inspection checklist before purchase and regularly throughout ownership will help identify issues early. Addressing problems promptly is key to keeping passengers safe and avoiding major headaches and expenses down the road.

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Yacht Purchase Pre-Survey Checklist

The cost of traveling to and from the these yachts as well as the cost for a haulout and survey can add up pretty quickly. It is very disappointing, after spending all the money for travel, surveyor, and haulout just to find out that it was a deal breaker right from the start. We put together a checklist of some questions to ask and things to do before you even think about traveling to see a particular yacht. Once you are satisfied that you have the answers to your questions and are still interested, take a peek at the yacht armed with our Pre-Survey Checklist . Below, we put together an initial inspection checklist to help you do a quick inspection of the boat to determine if it is worth a further look. This checklist is not designed to replace a proper survey, but it will give you a good idea of the general condition of the boat and whether you wish to continue looking into buying the boat. Make lots of notes and take pictures to use for later for analysis and comparison.

Things To Do BEFORE You Look At The Yacht

• First take a look at the pictures and layout of the yacht. Determine if this layout will work for your application, e.g., “owner’s cabin / suite” vss “charter” layout (maximimum cabins).
• Go over the specifications and inventory lists. Make sure that the yacht has the equipment that you want on board or can easily be fitted. If not, ask your broker for advice and estimates to add air conditioning, washer, dryer, etc.
• Check the age of equipment like sails, watermaker, etc. to determine when or if it needs replacing.
• Get engine and generator hours.
• Find out the history of the yacht: Charter boat / cruising boat / day sailor / fresh water sailor or ocean/salt water
• Find out location of the yacht. This can tell you a lot about how much use the boat had, for example, Canada has a much shorter sailing season and is therefore charter yachts from there are less used.
• Acquire service records for the yacht.
• Ask your broker for the number of similar yachts for sale as it greatly influences the price of a yacht.
• Ask your broker for price comparisons of the same or similar yachts sold in the last 6 months to 1 year.
• Find out about common problems with similar boats or models, e.g., de-lamination was a big problem on the old Wildcats. If you know of common defects on the boat of your choice, make that a major focus of your research and inspection.
• Seller should provide the H.I.N. number of the yacht. This number can tell you who the builder is, where it was built, and the year it was built.

Pre-Survey Boat Inspection Checklist

Use this checklist to help you vet a boat you are interested in before you invest in an on-deck visit or professional marine survey.

Estelle Cockcroft

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Tips from a Marine Surveyor: Avoid These Yacht-Buying Pitfalls

Career marine surveyor Tarn Kelsey wants you to know that marine surveys are a lot more than just a required step in the yacht-buying process: they're an opportunity. Purchasing a yacht is an exciting time, but prospective buyers would be wise to leverage the marine survey process to their advantage. We sat down with Tarn to talk through the marine survey process and his tips and advice for how you can get the most out of your next survey and avoid the common pitfalls he sees yacht buyers make.

Survey Says...

So what is a marine survey? Marine surveys are reports and valuations prepared by certified marine surveyors, who are like expert witnesses, acting as impartial third parties in a transaction. They are like a home inspector and an appraiser rolled into one, both inspecting and assigning a value. Tarn's specialty is pre-purchase inspections. He inspects the boat and prepares a written report for the prospective buyer, as well as for the insurance and financing companies involved. Tarn has been in the marine business since he began working in boat repair at 18. At 36, he hung up the tool belt and began apprenticing with a marine surveyor, and has been surveying boats ever since. 

When does a marine survey happen?

Pre-purchase inspections happen after a prospective buyer contacts a listing broker, decides they want to buy a boat, and signs a contract to start the purchasing process. That contract starts a clock for the rest of the process, and that's when it's time to get a marine surveyor like Tarn on board to take a look at the boat. 

Survey Surveyors

Choosing a marine surveyor you trust is key. Most folks find Tarn through word-of-mouth recommendations from happy past clients, so reaching out to your networks can be a great way to get a few names to start with; brokers will usually recommend several names to preserve impartiality in picking surveyors. If you're searching online, look for names that come up again and again while cross-referencing forums, websites, and/or boat manufacturers' owner's groups. As the one who's ultimately buying the boat, you have the final say on who your marine surveyor is. It's a good idea to interview a few to find the right fit. You'll need to know if a potential surveyor:

- has enough career experience under their belt;

- is available to perform the survey and produce the report within the given timeframe;

- is familiar with the type of boat you're buying (sail vs. power, etc.); and

- tests engines, generators, and/or other specific equipment on the boat, and to what extent.

If you're going through the purchase process solo, you may want to keep in mind that some marine surveyors will only work with buyers who are working with a broker. Working with a broker can make the purchase process go much more smoothly for you overall, and the survey day for your marine surveyor: they know the ins and outs of how to prep the boat to ensure a successful day.

Macro to Micro

When Tarn arrives to survey a boat, he starts with the big things first: Are there basic structural problems? Is the rudder falling off? Is the deck rotting? Has the engine obviously caught on fire? After he's gotten an initial feel for the boat as a whole, he tackles the details, working his way through systems, and taking the boat out for a test run to check navigation systems and the sails on sailboats. Does the refrigeration work? How well? Are the hoses in good condition? How many hours are on the engine? This macro-to-micro approach allows him to systematically assess the boat's condition and begin working toward a valuation. Different used boats have different levels of wear and tear, and a marine surveyor can give you fantastic insight into the lifespans of various onboard systems and how well you can expect the boat to perform for your intended purposes. 

How do surveyors assign value to a boat?

It depends on the boat! Some boats are easy because they're from a popular brand with a lot of comps on the market to compare value to. Custom boats with no sister ships can be a little trickier and you have to get creative to figure out fair comparisons. Overall, the basic question is whether the boat is above or below average for what it is and how it compares to similar boats.

Mistakes Yacht Buyers Make

As a career marine surveyor, Tarn has seen a lot of prospective yacht buyers on their prospective yachts, and he's noticed some common pitfalls excited buyers can make:

Getting too attached before the marine survey.

It's natural to be excited when you are close to buying a new boat, but getting carried away by your emotions can cloud your judgment. Try to maintain neutrality until after you've absorbed the marine survey report. If you've already got your heart set on a yacht and then discover the engine will need to be replaced within a couple of years, it might be difficult to accurately assess whether that's a future expense you actually want to sign on for.

- Not doing enough homework on the type of boat they're buying and the systems involved.

This one is pretty self-explanatory: it's hard to know what are key features or potential problems on a boat if you're not familiar with it, and if you're overwhelmed by a marine survey report on systems you don't understand, you could miss something critical that might make you decide whether or not to buy the boat.

- Overpaying for a boat or buying too much boat for what they have the experience for.

Some folks think it's best to buy as much boat as you can afford, but if you're not an experienced boat owner, you may not realize what it costs to maintain a larger boat after the initial purchase, which could be up to 5-10% of the boat’s value per year, not including where you keep it! It's not uncommon for marine surveyors to survey one boat twice within a couple years because the first buyers were overwhelmed and disillusioned by too much boat.

- Inviting "expert" friends to weigh in. 

Sure, some friends really do know what they're talking about and having an extra head aboard during the purchasing process can bring some balance to the equation, especially if you know you struggle with staying neutral. But choose who to bring into the decision-making process carefully. How experienced are they? Sometimes soliciting too many opinions can be unhelpful, especially if they're just opinions rather than expert advice.

- Not working with a broker or using a "hands off" broker who doesn't prep the boat before the survey.

As mentioned previously, some marine surveyors won't work with you if you're not working with a broker, and for good reason. Prepping a boat for a survey can be involved, and brokers know the ropes: all the systems should have been turned on, the batteries should be charged, etc. If a boat has been untouched for months (or years!) until the marine surveyor arrives, a lot of their limited time can be wasted on last-minute repairs and troubleshooting systems.

Get the Most from a Survey

So now that you know what mistakes to avoid, here's how you can go beyond and get the most out of your marine survey:

- Have an active dialogue with the marine surveyor throughout the survey.

Instead of waiting until the end to get a report you're left to decipher alone, get engaged with the surveying process. Ideally, nothing in the report should be a surprise because you had one-on-one time with the marine surveyor as they went through their process. No matter what your technical background is, you're sure to learn something helpful about the boat and its systems. Simply ask, "Do you mind if I go with you?" at the start of the survey to kick off an active dialogue that you only stand to gain from.

- Consider the time of year.

If you're surveying a boat north of the Carolinas in winter, it has likely been winterized; therefore, there are systems you either can't test or that are not cost-effective to test. Sometimes you can't help it: the boat will be gone if you wait until spring. But if you want to be sure everything can be tested and included in the survey, it's good to keep this in mind in terms of how you time your yacht-buying search.

A marine survey is so much more than an item on the yacht-purchasing process checklist. By doing your homework and staying engaged in the marine survey process, you can ensure that you have a clear picture of the boat you're hoping to buy and make a confident, informed decision about your yacht purchase. Happy boat buying!

Interested in getting a marine survey done by Tarn Kelsey? Reach out here: [email protected]. And if you're looking for a broker to aid in the entire yacht-buying process, learn why David Walters Yachts buyer's agents are some of the best in the business here [LINK TO BUYER'S AGENT BLOG] .

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Pre Purchase Survey Report (Sample)

• Post author: Ingolf Schneider
• Post published: 1. February 2022
• Post category: Sample Yacht Survey Reports

Note: The above document is a sample report of a pre purchase motoryacht survey. It may contain checkpoints that are not part of a standard survey scope. Please refer to “Pre Purchase Surveys” for information on  available options and prices.

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