cheetah catamaran problems

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Cheetah Marine Catamaans

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• Start date 30 Jan 2002
• 30 Jan 2002

Im very interested in purchasing a Cheetah Marine 6.2m or 6.9m catamaran in the next few months. I have had a load of stuff sent to me by the company and have found a few articles in Pratical Boat Owner and Motor Boat and Yachting from the past year or so. Does anybody know of any other boat reviews/articles on them ? I think one of the Fishing magazines ran a feature on refurbishing one last summer ? Any info would be great. Also if anybody knows of any for sale or has any experiance on them id love to hear from you. Cheers,  

longjohnsilver

Well-known member.

If this is the one that's made in the Isles of Scilly, there's one parked near me, looks a very practical craft, has twin outboards and loads of deck space.  

Cats are great fun especially when they split in two ô¿ô  

The ones built in the Scillies are called 'Powercats'. A bit too small for what I want. Heard some good things about them though. The Cheetahs are built on the Isle of Wight.  

• 22 Feb 2013

;45536 said: Im very interested in purchasing a Cheetah Marine 6.2m or 6.9m catamaran in the next few months. I have had a load of stuff sent to me by the company and have found a few articles in Pratical Boat Owner and Motor Boat and Yachting from the past year or so. Does anybody know of any other boat reviews/articles on them ? I think one of the Fishing magazines ran a feature on refurbishing one last summer ? Any info would be great. Also if anybody knows of any for sale or has any experiance on them id love to hear from you. Cheers, Click to expand...

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Cheetah Boats...need your guys' expert opinion???

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I want a cheap boat from the 2000's and newer that is 21 foot plus, just a stock motor basic boat that is a performance boat (no searays etc)...but I am kind of a cheap ass so I want to spend 20k and under. I found a 2001 24 ft Cheetah tunnell hull with a 496, they are asking 18k for it. I have only heard negative things about Cheetah boats so I wanted to ask around and see if you guys know anything about them or have had experiences with them??? It looked good because it seems like everyone is asking the same money for ultras with 350s and 454s but makes me nervous because all I have heard are bad things about them...  

Being a self described cheapass it is a good boat for you... It gets you into the entry level market and is a fairly cheaply priced boat. Remember you get what you pay for  

thanks brotha, i just dont want something that is going to crack in half the first time i hit chop in havasu! hahaaa  

The Cheetah is inexpensive, but not cheap. They cut a lot of corners on things like upholstery, rigging, stereo, fit and finish that save you money on the purchase. The hull designs and layup are not compromised IMHO, and power packages are still from Mercury; you also get great customer service. If you don't need the inside of your engine compartment shiny, if the windshield can be regular formed plexiglas, if the seats can be not as rounded, your Cheetah should do you good service. You can upgrade your Cheetah for not a lot of money, too. Bob sold us a few bits and pieces that we felt set our boat apart, and it didn't kill us to pay for it; we also added an amp and subwoofer for tunes when parked, along with the second battery to drive it all. The battery mod was about $34 for the Perko switch doing the work myself.  

Well you can see the cheap build quality on a boat just by looking down the side of the boat. Correct me if im wrong, but I had always been told that if you look down the side of the boat and the fiberglass is not straight that its a sign that the boat didn't have enough time to cure in the mold.  

I have been in a few Cheetahs and the modified tunnel hull was fast. The one that I was in was powered by an outboard and ran strong. Too Forcefull's Cheetah deck boat is super nice but he has done alot of upgrades. Shop around compare and get out there on the water!  

If you look at a Howard, they are laser straight down the side. But then again, a Howard is not an entry level boat, and do you really need that kind of build quality in an entry level? My Tahiti was one of the best boats of it's time, but it wasn't straight at all. What an entry level guy needs is a solid hull that doesn't leak, is well laminated, solidly screwed together, and runs well. Get one with an EFI Merc engine for the last so that your boat will start every time. As for making sure the sides are perfect, the first time you bang a dock, they won't be anymore....  

hull isnt thick enough from what Iv hered  

That's the Stiletto. Bad things you may have heard from people who didn't think it was right that they got spanked by a much less expensive boat. There are a lot of Cheetahs out there, my kids and grandkids are out in one as I type.  

Over the years they have built more boats than most and I still see alot of them on the water. I would be curious to know if the actual materials/layup are the same as others. From what I have observed for over 30 years a pretty nice boat for the money.  

Dave, this was on saturday...  

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Ive seen that cheetah you're considering. I know it needs some interior TLC. As far as the hull goes.....just look at it! If it's been around since 2000, and its still in one piece without any major stress cracks, soft spots or delamination, obviously it's built ok! They are a cheaper boat, but dont start trashing it by comparing it to a DCB or Howard. Look at other boats in the same price range you want to spend, then make a decision. With the 496HO power, its got alot of bang for the buck, if its in good shape.  

Thank you guys for the input, I am going to go look at the boat this week!  

Had a 93 20' cheetah open bow that got beat up pretty well in Havasu chop. Sold it after about 10 years and there were 2 small stress cracks at the top of the open bow. I've seen more stress cracks in 2-3 year old deck boats that are supposed to be superior quality. Most of the stuff on the boat wasn't through bolted but with a little tinkering here and there you can upgrade that. I think they are a great boat for the price range. Much better than a chopper glass production boat IMO and you still have a merc package in there.  

I own a 2003 24' cheetah fastcat and love the boat. No problems at all. When other say the Cheetah boats can't compare to other manufactures they forget those other boats cost sometimes more than double. If you want top of the line then you will pay for it. In my opinion the Cheetah boats are a great boat well worth the money. Just make sure to test drive and do your homework with respect to previous owners and upkeep.  

I've got a 24' stilleto and I love it. It handles great in my opinion, no it's not a dcb or a eliminator but didn't cost what those cost. I bought mine used from cheetah bob and he was great to deal with.  

ask HBINHEAT he knows alot about them from his buddy  

I use to own a 2000 24 foot stilletto. Powered by a 454 mag. 6 years 1 problem that Bob fixed with no questions asked. After owning my HTM I look back at the Cheetah as a Decent entry level boat. Reliable, but was missing the finish work. Not sure which Cheetah you are lookin at but if you could get the stiletto at that price I would say not a bad buy. But if you want to run hard in Havasu chop I would look into other options.  

I bought a Stilletto new in '03 from Dory (Domn8ter), it was built by him not Bob from the hull up. Really nice boat, quality rigging and upholsery. They handle Havasu chop pretty good.  

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Cheetah 7.9 or Kingfisher Powercat 800

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Hi thinking of upgrading to one of the above and just wondered if anyone had some performance and fuel usage say with a couple of 150 -175 Suzuki engines. Also any other cats I should be looking at ? The Kingfisher is an alloy built cat and looks quite smart and cost a bit less than the cheetah. Would be used for Fishing and pleasure use Look forward to your comments  

Personally I'd be going for the Cheetah, much easier to change things around on the structure and much easier to keep looking good! Something else to consider is that Ali boats will feel cold most of the time The added bonus is that should anything need sorting out they are based in the UK  

I would not have an aluminium boat if I was keeping it afloat,would worry about the corrosion,annode situation. In my marina I know of one aluminium boat amongst hundreds which must tell a story. I know the owner of that one boat and it is a pig to handle,blowing around in the lightest breeze.  

There is a cheetah in Bradwell , (I think it is) bright yellow called vodcat, it looks like an absolute weapon of a boat, totally fishing orientated. It is a big boat for the size of it if that makes sense. I'm not sure though at what size the double mooring rate kicks in for twin hull boats?  

nab raider said: I would not have an aluminium boat if I was keeping it afloat,would worry about the corrosion,annode situation. In my marina I know of one aluminium boat amongst hundreds which must tell a story. I know the owner of that one boat and it is a pig to handle,blowing around in the lightest breeze. Click to expand...

I have this 8.5m Cheetah. Fitted new 200hp Suzukis in the spring. Does less than 1 lpm per engine cruising at 22-23 kts. I previously had a 7.9m Cheetah which used about the same fuel at lower speeds as it had 90hp Hondas. Can't fault the sea keeping qualities of the Cheetahs.  

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Cheetah cat...... dream boat..... totally awesome Sea keeping, economic to run... Would love to get my hands on one but they are hard to find one secondhand (which tells you a lot about their abilities!)  

Yes have been looking for a secondhand one as it’s a 12 month waiting list for a new one. Anyone out their with a cat for sale ?..  

Stiffer said: Yes have been looking for a secondhand one as it’s a 12 month waiting list for a new one. Anyone out their with a cat for sale ?.. Click to expand...

how about this https://www.findafishingboat.com/cheetah-marine/ad-88470 used to belong to a member on here and i did lots of work on it making lots of grp bits in the wheelhouse. could do with bigger engines though.  

Hi Garry Did speak to the guy this morning and he’s reduced the price. As you say the engines are a bit on the small side. Did pass the details to a mate of mine and he may well buy it. The only strange thing is that he saying it’s only done 100 hours...on those orignel engines.  

Its just like I made reference to on another thread. Modern outboards can just be plugged in to know how many hours they have yet even on a 50k boat it's hearsay and no print out! Surely if it were low hours or even had a recent service, there would be a nice print out! Seems to me if it's low hours and regularly serviced then there is evidence and if not its an estimated figure. I just found this very frustrating when trying to source a new to me outboard.  

I have a 7.9 with twin 250 Hondas on. Can not smile wide enough when I am out on it. Not quite as efficient as Paul's but I hope to have a few extra knots at the top end : ) Any questions just ask and I will try and answer  

Wow! That's a lot of power. Reading the transom plate on that advert it implies max weight of people luggage and outboards is 1140kg which is pretty low. I think a Honda 250 is 290kg which only leaves 560kg for luggage and people. Also is the max power for both engines as it uses the same icon for both max power and max weight but I would assume the power one is per engine and the weight one is total amount? Just an observation, its not because I am jealous of your 500 horses!!! It could be rather costly in the event of an accident though.  

The boat was fitted out away from cheetah by the fella I bought it off. He added some big stainless transom brackets to add more support for the 250's. Sean at cheetah would not put a CE plate on as he thought they were a bit big and was worried about cornering hard at speed! Just got to handle it with care when the hammer is down. I have phoned Cheetah a few times for advice and they are spot on over the phone so it might be worth giving them a bell about loading weight.  

If it doesn't have a CE plate how have you insured it? Or has that now been rectified?  

Sorry to worry you but I'd be quite concerned if the guy at cheetah won't even back it. The 200 kw translates to 270hp. Is that per hull or total? I assume total in which case you are nearly double. If you could get a surveyor to say it's ok then they might be ok with that but I doubt you'll find anyone to put their name to it. The only people I think that would insure it is a specialist ski/power boat company. We have national speed skiing here and there are bespoke cigar shaped boats with twin 300 plus on the back that go along at 35 degrees until on the plane. These boats must be insured so I'd try and find out more. I would dread to think what the insurance would be though! Sorry to be a kill joy. Must be quite some boat. Dread to think what the acceleration is like  

If the manufacturer won't sanction your engines you can be sure your insurer will refuse any claim you make for anything remotely related.  

Mmmm my dream boat might have just become a nightmare : ( Sean at cheetah said he would do me a 7.9 with I think he said 2 x 225 Hondas on. I am sure he said the 250 is in a different housing so the weight is a little higher and the concern was centre of gravity at speed. I think there is only 10Kg difference between the 200/225 and the 250hp so I thought it would be safe. Me at 6ft7 and on the wrong side of 20st would make far more cornering difference at the helm height. Clinker the boat was finished by a man who runs a marine stainless company who makes fuel tanks and fittings for both large and small boat so I hope he knew what he was doing. When we are talking about a claim are you talking about me getting paid out if I flip it and sink at sea or if I put a foot long scratch down a 65ft sun seeker when my old friend Mr wind blow me off course entering the lock? I presume the latter would be ok to get a third party boat fixed but anything speed related would be a problem. Sorry Stiffer I have seem to have hijacked your post. I might have a boat for sale soon though if you want a overpowered uninsurable beast : 0  

Try talking to these people - when I wanted to check that everything was as it should be for the CE certification for the boat I bought, they were very helpful: http://www.ceproof.com Hopefully your builder did understand how his stainless structure would load into the GRP structure and spoke to to Cheetah about his plans - if you've had two great engines hanging off the structures and there's no signs of any stress on the GRP, I'm sure all would be OK - you'd have to think that if there were problems with such reinforcing, they would show themselves sooner rather than later.  

Worst case scenario then is you swap your 250s for 225s and get the manufacturer to issue a CE plate or written approval, providing he doesn't object to the other alterations. Is the guy who finished the boat in a position to issue the plate? Selling might be an issue without one. And your insurer might still prove 'difficult ' in the event of a claim.  

I have emailed the insurance to ask advice so will go from there. They had the top speed and power so they knew it was a fast boat. Fingers crossed all will be ok as I have just got them propped to rev out ha ha  

Fingers crossed for you :thumbsup:  

Another idea. I run the boat with one 250 but have a rather large auxiliary? Ha ha  

Why don't you sell both 250's and put 225's on instead then ?  

Gary do you not need a CE plate to sell it if made less than 5 years ago?  

yes but technically mine is 5 years old now but only been in the water 2 years.  

Which leads to another interesting point - how do they check when you built a self build boat? - Obviously with yours you have the very extensive thread on WSF - but is it 'built' when the hull is complete, the hull and superstructure are complete, or when the boat is fully fitted and ready for water?  

i got a 7.9 cheetah with 115 yams on the back,cruises at 19kts @3500 revs,have carried a ton on the deck and still cruised at 17/18 kts @3900 revs.totally awesome safe boat  

I have dealt a lot over the years with modified motorcycles. Structural work completed by a registered company has never been questioned (for me) but worst case scenario would be an engineers report. As you clearly purchased the boat, then had work done to fit uprated engines, the boat should have been supplied with a CE plate. Then the only question is the "mod" work, which if you supply photo's and details of who carried out the work, they may or may not require a report by an independant engineer. I would contact the boat builder again and request the CE plate for original build as they are legally required to do, then go back to insurers to discuss the modifications.  

swift473 said: i got a 7.9 cheetah with 115 yams on the back,cruises at 19kts @3500 revs,have carried a ton on the deck and still cruised at 17/18 kts @3900 revs.totally awesome safe boat Click to expand...

What the CE plate says seems to be a very unclear situation on quite a few vessels. For example.... I have been looking at a Sessa Dorado 26. CE plate says max engine power 140w. One is fitted with a 190hp penta d3 and the other had twin 150 yams !!! How's that work then ?? Both engine options are over the rated badge spec but both are factory built !! Does the CE plate in Italy mean different things as compared to the UK? Confused.com  

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Cheetah xl - hull problem??

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Thread: Cheetah xl - hull problem??

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After looking at it for weeks I bought the last Cheetah XL that OSE had listed. It was on there so long I thought it needed a home. It is set up with two TP 1750 KV motors fed by a couple of ZTW 200 Amp ESCs. The rudder is the original blade except it is hung out back on a six inch extension. This stopped the hooking it was doing with the original bracket right against the transom. The present set of props are 1814 ABC by DasBoata. I am running 6S to each side. The problem is that that boat will lift occasionally and run like it should with the bow up and it flies. Then the bow will drop and it plows and really does not want to come up but it will for a bit and so it goes up and down. I have never done the bottom of a boat but put it on a flat and saw that one side was not quite touching by maybe 1/32 in. A friend who has done this work before leveled one side and now the space is gone and all seems square. This operation did cause less plowing but it still drops often enough that I feel it is a problem. I have added about three ounces of weight back at the transom and run the batteries and ESCs as far back as I can. Both stingers are raised about one degree. Is there a tutorial some where that would give me some basic info on leveling the boat bottom if in fact that is the problem. What materials to use and the steps etc. I know all edges need to be sharp but thats it. Do the three bladed props have too much lift. What props should I consider? HELP!! And my thanks to all who read all of this!

Do you have the CG wright ? because it's very important ,you can move the batteries to front and aft to get the cg wright and try to raise the stingers a bit more ,to find a good setup take some time

First step I would think is to blueprint the hull. Did they correct the design problem in the new version? Here is what I did on my original Cheettah: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...636#post518636 This blueprinting process should let you run a level stinger.

Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

Koen Thanks for your reply - I do believe I have the CG right using about 33% of the hull length as a start and experimenting from there on my smaller (34 inch) version which is running really well. This one that I am having trouble with is the XL version 39 3/4 inches long. The only way it will come on plane at all is with the batteries as far back as I can get them. I will try raising the stingers a bit more but I believe the whole bottom needs to be blueprinted.

Last edited by MikeP323; 12-08-2022 at 12:08 PM .

What motor / prop combo do you have on your original non XL? Struggling with heat myself. Sorry for side-tracking.

larryrose my thanks for your reply. After looking at the photos of your blueprinting process I can safely say that I would need some instruction before I attempt that operation. I might try and level a few more of the pockets using epoxy and balloons though. I also looked at the pic of Tiumans hull and mine does have that problem with the last step to a lesser degree I think. It also has some low places that need to be filled. I think I have been told that body putty has been used for as filler for the process by some - I wonder if there is a downside to that. It sure would sand easier but is it durable?

jkflow - I am running two TP 4050 2100 KV with CNC 5016 2 blade detongued props at this time - It has been very successful in club racing but since I live down South it does run a bit hot however not to the point of any failures yet.

Last edited by MikeP323; 12-08-2022 at 01:09 PM .

Originally Posted by MikeP323 jkflow - I am running two TP 4050 2100 KV with CNC 5016 props at this time - It has been very successful in club racing but since I live down South it does run a bit hot however not to the point of any failures yet. Must be 4S with those motors! Otherwise, it would burn down (I speak from experience).

Originally Posted by MikeP323 larryrose my thanks for your reply. After looking at the photos of your blueprinting process I can safely say that I would need some instruction before I attempt that operation. I might try and level a few more of the pockets using epoxy and balloons though. I also looked at the pic of Tiumans hull and mine does have that problem with the last step to a lesser degree I think. It also has some low places that need to be filled. I think I have been told that body putty has been used for as filler for the process by some - I wonder if there is a downside to that. It sure would sand easier but is it durable? Lots of info on this site about blue printing hulls just get some microbaloon so mix into a lowish viscosity, slow set epoxy. you can mix enough in that is can become like mashed potatoes, or make a dam to prevent it from running. Boat sealing tape works well to make dams, but must be applied thoroughly while everything is clean and dry. You will be WAY happier with the result. Bonndo sux, and gums up when you try to sand it. Clogs the sand paper. Aside, always use slow set epoxy if you can. Its stronger. Fast cure epoxy can not be waterproof too. You can speed up the curing process with an incandescent light to increase the temp, but don't go over 130F

Originally Posted by EddieM41 Must be 4S with those motors! Otherwise, it would burn down (I speak from experience). True - the boat was built to run using 4S as it is run in "P" or what we call "Straight P " in our club racing. I do know about burning things up and down and it is NO FUN! I have run it on 5S occasionally with no problems other than how to hang on to it. It was pretty quick.

I think it’s a design problem, the catamaran is wide so it’s very sensitive to the tunnel effect. As soon as a flip is triggered it’s screwed. The choice is to adjust the center of gravity further forward or to change cat...

Originally Posted by Alfa Spirit I think it?s a design problem, the catamaran is wide so it?s very sensitive to the tunnel effect. As soon as a flip is triggered it?s screwed. The choice is to adjust the center of gravity further forward or to change cat... ALFA - Flipping has not been the problem. The boat is doing the opposite - it is plowing a lot and only lifting occasionally and then flopping down to plow some more without letting off on the throttle . Since I have more than a grand into the thing I believe I will work with it some more before changing. The boat does need to be blueprinted. I am still looking for a tutorial on how to do that. I will probably try the method larryrose suggested (see below) Thanks for your reply.

I'd move some weight to the rear slightly and see if it helps. Also you can try different props with slight tongue/lift to see if that changes the ride attitude.

Originally Posted by Silver954 I'd move some weight to the rear slightly and see if it helps. Also you can try different props with slight tongue/lift to see if that changes the ride attitude. SILVER - thanks for your reply. I have a few other sets of props and plan to give them a try. I have about five ounces of sticky weight back at the transom. I was told to try running with one battery back and the other forward. Well with the right forward and the left aft it got its nose up and stayed up until it flew thru the air with the greatest of ease It was really moving . I am presently strengthening both sides with zpoxy and fiberglass as the hull flexed. TFL built this thing with no carbon fiber inlay so I should have done some work on that first.

You are on the right path to find the right CG for the cheetah xl. Since it's a longer hull it will need that center of gravity slightly further back than the regular cheetah. I think you were pretty close so small changes should do it.

The hull running surfaces are concave front-to-rear. A massive amount of work is required to correct this. Put a straightedge on it and you will see the center two running surfaces lower than front and rear. The concave portion causes it to stick to the water anytime the nose drops even slightly.

If you post pictures it will help visualize what you are saying

Set it on any flat surface. Observe where the hull contacts the table at the end of each running surface. There are 4 on each side. All 8 should touch the table at the same time. On every hull I?ve seen the middle two on each side are high. I think the hulls warp. You could try a bulkhead? Always check for twist too.

Clarification to reply re Cheetah XL

Originally Posted by Mike W Set it on any flat surface. Observe where the hull contacts the table at the end of each running surface. There are 4 on each side. All 8 should touch the table at the same time. On every hull I?ve seen the middle two on each side are high. I think the hulls warp. You could try a bulkhead? Always check for twist too. Mike - Is this a problem with all Cheetahs or just the XL in particular? Then u mentioned trying a bulkhead which I am not familiar with either. I am still fighting the battle with this hull which has been blueprinted by a friend with no tangible results. Thanks for your reply!

Just the XL. And possibly also because of the additional step that no other cat I have ever seen has. The bulkhead comment was a suggestion to possibly stiffen the low area to the deck to make the repair more stable. In most cases blueprinting is smoothing the existing running surfaces to flat and squaring edges. If they are not true to start with there is a great deal more work that needs to be done. Have you placed it on a flat countertop to observe how true the running surfaces are?

Otto RC Marine

Still working it - Cheetah XL

Originally Posted by Mike W Just the XL. And possibly also because of the additional step that no other cat I have ever seen has. The bulkhead comment was a suggestion to possibly stiffen the low area to the deck to make the repair more stable. In most cases blueprinting is smoothing the existing running surfaces to flat and squaring edges. If they are not true to start with there is a great deal more work that needs to be done. Have you placed it on a flat countertop to observe how true the running surfaces are? Yes I have and it still needs more work on the bottom thats for sure. I did find that one of the two motors was faster by 1744 rpm (no load) and so they are now matched with a new one to match the other new one already installed. (within 10 Kv.} Funny that the installed used motor had a higher Kv rating than the new one. I dont know if the matchup will help but it cant hurt. As to the bottom I believe I will need an expert in the booth with me. Thank you for your reply! MAP

Just guessing here, but you mentioned that you adjusted the struts up a degree, maybe try 1 more degree up? Are you using lifting props? If so, maybe some non lifting props and a slight upward strut adjustment would help to get the bow up. I also think large fiberglass RC boats can come out of the mold straight, but then slowly warp especially if there is no Carbon or Kevlar lining

Still working it!!

Originally Posted by Notoriousone Just guessing here, but you mentioned that you adjusted the struts up a degree, maybe try 1 more degree up? Are you using lifting props? If so, maybe some non lifting props and a slight upward strut adjustment would help to get the bow up. I also think large fiberglass RC boats can come out of the mold straight, but then slowly warp especially if there is no Carbon or Kevlar lining Thanks for your reply Notorious. Yes I have tried the struts at all reasonable angles. Now to lifting props. I have tried ABC three blades and detounged CNC two blades to no avail. What type props make the least lift? I am about to try a small aluminum blade at the nose to give it the bit more it needs to get up and stay up. I have used blades to put some downforce on cats but this will be the opposite. Have to drive it with the throttle then for sure I think. When it does get up it flies.

Big cats handle like a drunk noodle at low speed. They have to be on top of the water going to act normal.

A set of Octura 447’s should be a good all around choice here. Low on the lift. This is my go to on my R42 cat which is similar in design, ( ie: wide body). The ABC props you have, are they SK series? If not then most other ABC props are of high lift. They SK series will actually push the nose up (or push transom down depending how you look at it). What you seem to be experiencing is the old Geico hop or porpoising. It is a combination of small things to get past this. You may also be onto something with ‘the blade’ in front of tunnel. The tunnel design can also effect things. Have you tried an air dam under the tunnel? This is commonly done with a windshield wiper blade taped to the underside of tunnel a couple inches back from the leading edge of the tunnel. This will create turbulence within the tunnel and sometimes helps. Aerodynamics comes into play on anything over 35mph so on our light little boats doing 50-60+ just imagine. Just sharing thought# and experience here, Shawn

Hello every body, I am looking for some expert advice for those of you you that have a lot of experience with the TFL cheetah XL . I am about to give up on this hull if I can't get it fixed over the winter months. First a little history. I bought the Cheetah directly from TFL . To run in our club under Q cat Club and IMPBA rules which are as follows. Max hull length of 40 inches . The hull just makes that rule as my hull is 39.75 inches. I must use a 40 mm x 92 mm single motor and run on 6s Lipo battery. and limited to a 50 mm prop. TFL now sells this version with a SSS 40 x 92 mm 2140 kv motor. So I originally went with that.For added strength they added the Kevlar to the hull with water pick ups in the bottom rear sponson. When the hull arrived they had the battery trays mounted as far forward as possible in the hull. I have already moved them back but not enough yet.I was burning up 200 amp ESC. It was suggested that I switch motors to a TP 40 mm x 92 mm and a 1350 kv and use a Castle XLX2 manba hydra 180 amp ESC. I have tried up to a 445 prop with the flat bottom strut up 1/8 inch from the bottom of the sponson. The hull runs very very wet and only hit 41 mph. I can only get to boat to balance at 13 inches forward of the transom. I am now in the process of moving the battery trays back as far as I can . I could get another 1 1/2 inches further back if I remove the dual bottom sponsom water pick ups and just stay with my dual water pick up rudder. With the Castle ESC relocated toward the rear behind the motor it would just fit between the shaft tube and the servo radio tray. This will allow me to get the GG back to 11 1/2 inches forward of the transom. If I remove the bottom water pick ups I could gain another 1 1/2 of battery movement to the rear if need be. This hull weighs in at 12.5 lbs. ready to run. After ready many post here on the design flow of the sponsoms, I check mine and they are off big time. I can see why the bot is stuck to the water. So, I guess from here what would the best motor kv be if I stay with my new castle ESC ,or am I looking at another new larger amp ESC. ? What would be the best CG location for the configuration. ? Also should I install a rudder extension to move the rudder back off the transom ? I need to find the site with pictures that shows me what the corrected sponsons look like. Thank you all for any help you can give me in advance. Signed frustrated .

post a pic of your data log

maybe this helps:set the strut 1/8" above the sponsons and if you need lift at the front use ABC 1815-17 this prop you can use it for a start and put the battery try's next to the motor(the motor you use is exellent)and also you can give the strut up angle (just a bit and adjust when need)

Originally Posted by JOHN BOCCHER Hello every body, I am looking for some expert advice for those of you you that have a lot of experience with the TFL cheetah XL . I am about to give up on this hull if I can't get it fixed over the winter months. First a little history. I bought the Cheetah directly from TFL . To run in our club under Q cat Club and IMPBA rules which are as follows. Max hull length of 40 inches . The hull just makes that rule as my hull is 39.75 inches. I must use a 40 mm x 92 mm single motor and run on 6s Lipo battery. and limited to a 50 mm prop. TFL now sells this version with a SSS 40 x 92 mm 2140 kv motor. So I originally went with that.For added strength they added the Kevlar to the hull with water pick ups in the bottom rear sponson. When the hull arrived they had the battery trays mounted as far forward as possible in the hull. I have already moved them back but not enough yet.I was burning up 200 amp ESC. It was suggested that I switch motors to a TP 40 mm x 92 mm and a 1350 kv and use a Castle XLX2 manba hydra 180 amp ESC. I have tried up to a 445 prop with the flat bottom strut up 1/8 inch from the bottom of the sponson. The hull runs very very wet and only hit 41 mph. I can only get to boat to balance at 13 inches forward of the transom. I am now in the process of moving the battery trays back as far as I can . I could get another 1 1/2 inches further back if I remove the dual bottom sponsom water pick ups and just stay with my dual water pick up rudder. With the Castle ESC relocated toward the rear behind the motor it would just fit between the shaft tube and the servo radio tray. This will allow me to get the GG back to 11 1/2 inches forward of the transom. If I remove the bottom water pick ups I could gain another 1 1/2 of battery movement to the rear if need be. This hull weighs in at 12.5 lbs. ready to run. After ready many post here on the design flow of the sponsoms, I check mine and they are off big time. I can see why the bot is stuck to the water. So, I guess from here what would the best motor kv be if I stay with my new castle ESC ,or am I looking at another new larger amp ESC. ? What would be the best CG location for the configuration. ? Also should I install a rudder extension to move the rudder back off the transom ? I need to find the site with pictures that shows me what the corrected sponsons look like. Thank you all for any help you can give me in advance. Signed frustrated . If your ride pads are convex at all it will run wet. They should be ?blueprinted?. They should be flat with a very slight dihedral(like 2-3degrees). Until this is checked or done you cannot make proper adjustments with consistency. As stated the ABC props will lift the nose. Shawn

Hull problem

Originally Posted by Bande1 post a pic of your data log Hi Bande1, I don't know how to do that but i can type the info you would like. I have found other problems with the bottom of the boat. They steps are all different . Two on the right side are low and the middle step on the left side low low by about an 1/8''. I need to fix them first.

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Venturer: New design of Cheetah Marine potting catamaran

25th october 2017.

Since Fishing News last visited Ventnor Haven Fishery on the Isle of Wight (11 February, 2016), for various reasons, four full-time boats have ceased fishing, leaving only the two Ventnor Haven boats working there now, reports John Periam .

Above: Mooring up ready to unload brown crab – note the paintwork on Venturer which is a non-fading base colour with colour wrap, giving the boat a contemporary look.

Times have not been easy for Geoff Blake, who has invested heavily to develop his business. “We have seen some of the hardest times during the past 10 years, which has caused some worries for us all. We can only hope the next 10 will be a lot easier,” said Geoff’s son, Ed Blake.

This has not deterred the Blake family, and Geoff has recently invested in Venturer CS 680 , a new 9.98m Cheetah Catamaran with a wider 3.7m beam.

Geoff Blake said: “I have been using Cheetah since they first started to manufacture on the island. Their catamarans are strong, light in weight, well-built, and handle well in the very inclement weather (up to force 8) that I go to sea in at times.

“Venturer will be joining our existing Cheetah, Ventnor Pride 11 CS 644 , which is coming up to 18 years old, and still going strong. Both boats have identical outboard engines, haulers and power packs, so that we are holding identical spares, and the skippers and crews are well-versed in the setup on both boats.

Part of the new design is the fitting of Mercury SeaPro engines, which are mounted on hydraulic jacks to improve fuel efficiency. Boat designer and builder Sean Strevens said: “The portajacks take the 2 x 67kW Mercury engines. By doing this, it increases deck space and gives Geoff the ability to jack them up in the air hydraulically for easy maintenance – either in the harbour or on the beach.”

Geoff Blake added, “In calmer seas, you can lift the engines vertically to reduce drag. Alternatively, lowering the engines gives better grip in rougher seas. Another important advantage is that should any rope become entangled in the propeller, you can lift the engine vertically out of the water for easier access, even in rough seas. Jacks are not included in the measurement of the boat, whereas pods are. This means that the full usable deck space can be utilised.”

Weight is important, and with fast boats it’s not about how much horse power you can have, it’s about being able to keep the weight down. Geoff, with 134kW, cruises all day at 20 knots without any problems. They often go out 23 miles to the centre of the Channel grounds – which they can fish in slack water – turning the whole thing around in approximately five hours. Weather plays an important part in their working lives, and if things happen to change, they know that the Cheetah design will handle most inclement conditions well.

“We can haul 200 pots, leaving current situation, economy is what running a business is about. We have fitted a Spencer Carter 1.5t slave hauler powered by a Yanmar 3YM20 power pack fitted with a deck wash. This is fitted below deck, port side, keeping the centre of gravity aft and low; perfect for rough-weather fishing.”

The decision was made to run two boats, and Ventnor Pride 11 has an uncapped licence with bass entitlement and shellfish, which is essential to business survival. Ventnor Pride 11 is now skippered by Lorne Gardner, who is a second-generation, local fisherman.

Geoff continued, “Ventnor Pride 11 has become a bit of an icon with its striking yellow colour, and we wanted to replicate that with Venturer. However; the new yellow gel fades, so Sean Strevens of Cheetah suggested we go for a non-fading base colour and wrap it. This lead to a grey gel (which is colour-matched to our Hilux), and the yellow stickers. I think it’s turned out brilliantly and gives the boat a contemporary look.”

The Isle of Wight is famous for its local brown crab, and its crab and chips (an island speciality) are very popular, especially during the tourist season. “With proposed plans for a Tidal Energy development, we have had major concerns regarding its future. I am glad to say the development has currently been shelved, after a lot of protest from the fishing communities and other parties – we are keeping our fingers crossed,” said Geoff.

Brown crab is still the lifeblood of Ventnor Haven Fishery, and for the past eight years, John Ridout, their driver, gets the 1am ferry off the island and drives to Paignton in Devon, then on to Brixham fishmarket for 5am, to drop off the catch of crabs, lobsters, Dover sole, and bass. He then collects bait, new ropes, and pots from Mike Cornish, who serves them well when it comes to supplying these items to be collected each day, so John can catch the return ferry on time and be back on the island by 10am.

“One must remember that island life is somewhat different to mainland life, and it adds extra expenditure in ferry and fuel costs,” said Geoff with a smile.

Another local Isle of Wight fisherman, Sid Stretch, has recently retired. A real character, Sid started fishing in the mid-1970s from Bembridge, and latterly Ventnor, with his white Cheetah, aptly named Mardeshar CS 671 after his wife Marion and daughters Denise and Sharon.

Family life is what fishing is all about. Ed Blake, son of Geoff and Cheryl Blake, took to the business in 2012, after leaving school. He now runs the shore side of the organisation. Cheryl runs the wet fish shop that is open seven days a week, all year round. As well as that, she oversees all the trade deliveries on and off the island, which is a huge growth market for Ventnor Haven Fishery .

Fishing is important to the island’s community too, as those involved provide fish to the many hotels and restaurants. However, it is very seasonal, and other markets have to be found, especially on the mainland. To do that, one has to invest, and that is what Geoff has done by adding a new Cheetah catamaran.

“We are lucky that they are built on the island. Cheetah Marine has a wonderful reputation as boat builders. Sean Strevens was himself a fisherman, so he has been able to design his boats with a wealth of experience behind him. Cheetahs are developed to be reliable workhorses, that can be operated in many working environments.

“With Venturer, the wheelhouse is compact and fitted-out with the latest Simrad electronic systems. There is also room behind, even with a seat, for my dedicated crew member John Stickman to prepare the shellfish for unloading on our return to Ventnor. It helps keep him dry and comfortable,” added Geoff.

Ed Blake does worry about the future, and, like his father, does have a few restless nights. “One of our main concerns, as is the problem for all the inshore fleet, is the lack of youngsters coming into the industry. We point the blame at the governing bodies putting so much red tape in the way, creating barriers to them starting a new career.

“Whether it’s restrictions linked to regulations on boat-building, or constant rules as to what you can catch, it adds more hardship. Most authorities seem to take the harshest interpretations of the laws and measures. We can only hope that once we leave the Common Fisheries Policy, a new, fisherman-friendly body is put into place to manage sustainable growth in the industry, and not one that seems hell-bent on ridding the sea of the inshore fleet, in favour of the pelagic vessels.”

He continued, “At the current rate, there will be more law enforcers than fishermen. We are law-abiding fishermen who want a sustainable future because we want to be able to catch something next year. What we object to are the ridiculous levels of paperwork and jurisdiction that are taking up more time every month, most of which is meaningless, with little tangible effect.”

Geoff Blake has worked hard, with a lot of financial investment, to develop Ventnor Haven Fishery. It has had to diversify to survive. Fishing is in Geoff’s blood, and it gets him out of bed every day. He has invested more funds in a new Cheetah, when others are leaving the industry.

What more can he ask for?

All he wants is to see it succeed so that his family can continue to enjoy island life as they always have. Ed, his son, has endorsed this by wanting to work with his father; if nothing else, that shows what family commitment is all about.

Read more features from Fishing News here . 

Antarctic II: Newly lengthened and upgraded Shetland midwater trawler starts well on herring

New boats 2017 – P1

Fishing news.

The voice of the industry since 1913, Fishing News brings you the latest news from the fishing industry, from details of policy changes and politics to quotas and more. Fishing News also includes comments and opinion, letters from the community, fishing news from Europe and coverage of fishing events, expos and trawl races. In addition, Fishing News provides buyers guides, classified ads, public notices, nostalgia from the archives and the latest ports and prices.

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The Cheetah range has been developed over the last 25 years by Sean Strevens. Each series is introduced by length, although it is the beam which remains fixed. Length variations mean Cheetah can build to each customers load carrying requirements whilst maintaining similar waterlines and optimum fuel economy. It also allows greater flexibility with licensing and moorings.

Cheetah Adventure Series 2.55m Beam, 6.9m Length, 7.2m

6m series     2.4m beam   length: 6.2m, 6.9m, 6m series   2.55m beam length 6.2m 6.9m, 7.2m series   2.55m beam   length 6.9m, 7.2m, 7.9m series   2.7m beam   lengths: 7.9m, 8.5m series   3m beam   typical lengths: 8.5m, 8.9m, 9.95m series 3.6m beam   lengths: 9m, 9.95m, 9.2m series   3.7m beam lengths: 9.2, 9.98, 10.2, 11.2m, 11.2m series 3.7m beam flybridge and long foredeck options, 8.9 x 3.4m beam       typical lengths: 8.5m 8.9m, cheetah r630 – 6.3m rib – eco/ev ready, deck mouldings.